How to repair an automatic umbrella: economic tips. Here's what to do if your umbrella breaks
Hi, I have two umbrellas and they are both broken...they are pretty cheap umbrellas. And the malfunction that happened with the umbrellas is the same. If you're out on a windy day and a gust of wind blows on the inside of your umbrella... those spokes tend to bend or even break. This is exactly what happened with both umbrellas. (Remove the damaged spokes from this umbrella)
Okay, I have various tools collected, but I don't know what tools I will need. We start working with the first umbrella... the one... which is less damaged. You need to choose the best umbrella according to your condition. Why did I decide this? I see only one broken knitting needle here, and one slightly bent one. So I want to leave it as it is and try to restore as much of the umbrella as possible... specifically this spoke and one of the other spokes here.
Do not open an umbrella in the house, it is a bad omen. This needle simply came off, since they are mainly sewn to the fabric, which makes them unstable... But you can simply sew it back. Be very careful when repairing your umbrella, as the spokes can easily injure your eyes. This spoke is completely broken. I'll try to remove it and install another one. The most difficult thing is probably to get inside here, because it is very narrow. All the knitting needles are secured with wire, it is wound somewhere here. You'll see a twist here somewhere. I use long nose pliers to loosen the twist. Using pliers, holding the umbrella in your hands, unwind the twist. I'm a little worried the wire will break...wouldn't want to find another piece of wire to replace. But in reality it is not difficult to do, you just need to do it carefully. Okay, you see - we unhooked it, and now I can pull out the knitting needles. We take out all the knitting needles from these grooves in a circle. At the same time, it's worth checking this hub for attaching the spokes... and undoubtedly one of the grooves is broken. This damage is caused by twisting of the wire. The wire is a little bent, so it's a little awkward to remove the knitting needles from it, so I'll straighten it a little with pliers... and pull all the knitting needles off. We disconnected the spoke that broke. The hardest part, I think, will be getting to the bottom. When I pressed the sleeve, the umbrella opened. So if I press the wire bandage, the umbrella should open. The design of the wire band at the bottom is exactly the same as at the top - it is a loop made of stainless steel wire. It passes through the holes in the ends of the spokes. You need to get to this wire and untwist it. It's a little awkward... hmm... I'm holding on to the plastic sleeve. Now I can move it a little... Let's check which way the wire is twisted, I think I need to twist it clockwise. Untwisted, and now I can disconnect the spokes. We remove all the knitting needles one by one. This way we will get to the damaged one. (Next we take a knitting needle from another umbrella to carry out repairs)
The damaged knitting needle has been removed, and now I'm going to do the same with the second umbrella to get some good whole knitting needles and put everything back together... In the same way, we unwind the wire of the knitting needle band at the bottom. And like I said, the fabric of the umbrella canvas should be sewn with small loops that give the fabric a little movement, the fastening should not be rigid... so I just cut these loops... and there is another loop here at the joint. .. ... we cut it off too... and at the very end... the fabric here... is sewn incorrectly. The knitting needle is inserted into a hole in the fabric and then sewn on.
There's a flat hole at the end of the knitting needle here. And here is a hole for sewing on this hinge. And there is one more thing where the fabric needs to be sewn. Before installation, you need to check that the spoke is straight and not bent.... it has quite a lot of hinges, part of the spoke moves along this groove. Squeeze the spoke several times to check the operation of the hinges... In any case, the metal of the spoke must be free of rust and damage, because it is the spokes that bear the main load... I will insert the spokes one by one, I need to make sure that the ends of the spokes fit in the correct position position. Tighten the tip if necessary... the knitting needles should be positioned so that the wire bandage can be tightened... Make sure there is enough space around.
I'll try to use the same piece of wire that was there... that's it. There is a small groove in the sleeve into which the wire should fit. Make sure everything fits correctly before we move on. This can be quite inconvenient. And then I slide the wire into the groove... let me show you this groove... I move the spokes back, and then I twist the wire back the way it was, pull it tight and make sure that the wire lies in the groove like I said. As I said before, the wire should fit into the groove in the plastic sleeve, you can see where the wire should go. You will need to do the same on the middle bushing. Okay, let's try this... it's a little awkward, you have to be careful not to break the other knitting needles while you're trying to tighten the wire. And you will need another spoke, even though you have not yet repaired the previous spoke. Do not tighten the wire too much, make sure that all the spokes are in their grooves and do not pop out, the wire is in the groove of the plastic sleeve. It is here, I don’t know how well it can be seen in the video. There is a small recess for twisting. Now I'll try to show it to you, if possible...
This twist recess is necessary for normal assembly. Because if the twist is not hidden in the groove, then it can turn and tear the material of the umbrella fabric. And a small tear can easily spread. Remember that the wind can be so strong that it can sink ocean-going ships... That's how strong it is. I think it's ok... just pinch and twist the wire and then try to bend the twist into the groove like I was talking about. Watch your fingers because the end of the wire will probably be sharp, I crimped it with the tip of the pliers. I'll thread the twist by pressing one end of the pliers on one side of the sleeve and using the other end to thread the twist. Yes, I'm happy with how it turned out. This wire is twisted, the twist is in the extra groove, it sticks out a little, but I'm going to leave it as is. We check that the spokes are correctly laid and inserted... On the top hub I will do the same.... The work is no different, except that it is much easier to get here. You need to check that you keep the knitting needles in the same order, that they are inserted at the bottom and are not mixed up. So, we begin to insert the wire with the spokes into the groove of the sleeve. So far everything is going great... ... I'm inserting these ends of the spokes into the groove one by one... ... this may be a little difficult... we assemble the spokes in a circle one by one and check that all the spokes are in the grooves and the wire is in the groove lies straight. But here on this side the wire is quite sharp, I’ll try to twist it. I try to twist the wire so that both ends are almost touching and the twist fits into the groove. Now I’ll put that knitting needle here. Well, it worked out. They will probably move freely until everything is completely curled. The spoke must be threaded into the groove one way or another... check that the wire goes through both holes in the end of the spoke... ..., make sure that the other spokes have not jumped out of the grooves. Twist the wire together and tuck it into the plastic groove. Twisting may be awkward. This is also due to the fact that the wire is a little uneven... Well, we replaced the knitting needles and sewed on the fabric. Those knitting needles that we took from another umbrella fit almost perfectly. In general, if you buy these cheap umbrellas, then you need to understand that they are made by one or two companies in the world. I used to repair umbrellas more often, but now it doesn't always make sense. But everything worked out for us and it seems good. Don't open your umbrella in the house because you might break something in the house or hit someone in the eye. Best wishes.
_
Umbrella- this is a mechanical device, which is a metal or plastic frame made of knitting needles on a tubular rod equipped with a handle, on which a synthetic waterproof material is stretched. An umbrella is designed to protect a person from sunlight and rain.
The umbrella was invented in China 300 centuries ago for protection from the sun. In those days, an umbrella was considered a symbol of power, and only the emperor and those close to him were allowed to use it.
A lot of time has passed since then, and now the umbrella has become a constant companion of any person in everyday life. The airy design of the umbrella allows it to be foldable and lightweight, but is not resistant to strong gusts of wind. Therefore, over time, everyone is faced with the breakdown of an umbrella, after which many simply throw them away.
But in vain, because you can save money and time, since usually umbrella breakdowns are simple and are associated with a rivet falling out or one of the spokes breaking. Therefore, you can repair an umbrella with your own hands using standard tools and available materials in half an hour.
Repair of the articulated connection of the spokes with the umbrella rods
The most common breakdown of an umbrella is the fall of a tubular rivet from the hinged connection of the rods and spokes. Due to mechanical load in the wind, the edges of the rivet unbend, it falls out and is lost.
Repair using installation as a rivet
paper clip
If the breakdown of the umbrella consists of a tubular rivet falling out of the hinge, and there are no conditions for repair, then it can be repaired using a paper clip.
To do this, just pass the bent end of the paper clip through the holes of the knitting needle and rod, then bend the end of the paper clip, as shown in the photo.
If you have pliers with a wire cutter function on hand, you can take a piece of wire from a paper clip, bend it into a loop on one side, insert it into the holes and form a loop on the other side. Thus, the wire will reliably perform the function of a rivet and will not tear the fabric of the umbrella dome.
Repair using a homemade rivet
copper wire
This is the most reliable repair method I've been using lately. The repaired hinge joint in the umbrella did not have to be repaired again.
The material used for the rivet is copper wire for electrical wiring with a diameter of about 1 mm. The wire is selected depending on the diameter of the holes in the rod and the spoke.
Before making a rivet, you need to thread the wire through the hole in the rod and check that it moves easily. If it is tight, then you need to slightly reduce the diameter using sandpaper.
Next you need to form the head of the rivet. To do this, the wire is clamped in a vice and the edges are riveted by hitting them with a small hammer, as shown in the photo. If the end of the wire is not flat, then it needs to be processed with a finely cut file.
When repairing an automatic umbrella, to be able to install a rivet, it must be kept in a half-opened position, which is not allowed by the spring, which tends to open the dome. In this case, you need to use a rope to tie the movable lower frame of the umbrella to the handle, as shown in the photo.
The next step is to insert the knitting needle into the slot of the rod and insert the prepared wire with the head. Cut off the excess wire with side cutters so that the protruding part is about a millimeter.
In the last step, you need to press the created wire head against an anvil (any solid metal object will do) and, with light blows along the edges, flatten the wire until a head is formed. Here is the umbrella hinge that has been repaired.
As practice has shown, although an umbrella is used in wet weather, the copper rivet does not oxidize. If desired, it can be coated, for example, with manicure varnish.
Instead of copper wire, you can successfully use post nails of the required diameter. Nails are made from soft types of iron and therefore also rivet well.
Repairing an umbrella hinge using a screw connection
You can repair the hinge joint of the umbrella frame using a screw and a nut with a diameter of 1-2 mm of a suitable length.
To do this, you need to align the holes of the parts coaxially, thread a screw through them and screw the nut onto it. If the screw is excessively long, then after screwing the nut, it is necessary to remove the protruding part using side cutters.
Usually, when a screw is bitten, the thread is deformed and the screw will not be able to unscrew on its own. But for reliability, it is better to rest the head of the screw against the anvil and rivet its protruding part from the nut using a hammer.
If there is only a screw and no nut, then you need to shorten its threaded part to the required length and slightly rivet the protruding part.
If at least one rivet has fallen out of the hinge, then others have probably become loose as well. Therefore, in order not to have to repair the umbrella again in the near future, you need to tap all the remaining rivets with a hammer, resting on the anvil.
Repair of spokes and umbrella rods
The second most common reason for umbrella failure is the failure of fiberglass spokes or eyelets on the rods.
Repairing a broken spoke tip
In this umbrella, the end of the tip of the spoke broke off where the hole for attaching the canopy fabric passed through. Most likely from the umbrella hitting a hard surface.
The photo on the left shows a whole tip, and the one on the right shows a broken tip. If you have a new knitting needle or tip, the easiest way is to replace it. But there was no spare spoke available, so it had to be repaired.
To make repairs, a hole with a diameter of about 1 mm was drilled in the tip and the sharp edges where it broke were ground off using a file. To avoid chafing of the thread at the points where it exits the hole, it is necessary to remove the chamfers using a larger diameter drill or a knife blade.
Repairing an umbrella with a broken fiberglass spoke
As a rule, the spokes and rods in umbrellas are made of metal, but recently umbrellas with plastic rods and fiberglass spokes have begun to appear.
The repair was just such an umbrella, in which one of the spokes broke off at the point where the hinge entered the rocker arm. The rest of the spoke remained inside the joint.
In the rocker, the spoke is secured with the help of its curved edges. To remove the rest of the knitting needle, you need to slightly bend the petals to the sides using a thin blade of a flat-head screwdriver.
The broken end of the spoke was a little fluffy, so before fixing it in the rocker arm, it was lubricated with quick-drying waterproof Moment glue.
After compressing the spokes with the petals in the rocker arm, the umbrella began to look like new. The same technology is used to carry out repairs in the event of a broken knitting needle at the tip.
After the repair, the spoke became a little shorter, but visually with the umbrella dome open it was not noticeable.
If a fiberglass spoke is broken in the middle, then its integrity can be restored using a piece of thin-walled metal tube taken from the telescopic antenna of an old radio. The broken ends of the knitting needle are smeared with glue and inserted into the tube so that the joint is in the middle of the tube.
Rod eye repair
If an eye in the rod breaks off, it seems that the umbrella cannot be repaired without replacing the entire rod. But that's not true. Using a metal knitting needle from an old umbrella, you can successfully restore the eye.
The photo on the left shows a working hinge joint, and on the right with a broken eye on the rod.
To repair, you need to take a metal knitting needle about ten centimeters long with a hole at the end from an old umbrella and tin it with solder along its entire length using an electric soldering iron.
Next, you need to remove the rivet from the rod and cover the inner surface of the rod groove with solder, as shown in the photo. When working with a soldering iron, it is necessary to prevent contact of heated parts and its tip with the fabric of the umbrella dome, since the synthetic material may melt.
The next step is to place a knitting needle in the rod groove and heat it along its entire length with a soldering iron until the solder melts both on the knitting needle and in the rod groove. At the same time, you must remember to correctly orient the hole on the knitting needle. Using this technology, you can successfully repair broken rods in the middle.
After installing the rivets using one of the technologies described above, the umbrella repair can be considered complete.
Repair of decorative umbrella cap
It is rare, but it happens that the decorative cap installed on the top of the umbrella dome breaks off or unscrews and is lost.
A cap that has broken off from the threaded part, if present, can be easily repaired by restoring its integrity.
To do this, you need to drill a hole in the center in the threaded part of the cap remaining in the umbrella cane with a diameter equal to the internal diameter of the screw thread.
In the center of the cap, you also need to drill a hole with a diameter equal to the external thread of the self-tapping screw. Thread a self-tapping screw through the cap and lubricate it so that it does not unscrew with any waterproof glue and screw it into the umbrella.
The photograph shows an assembled umbrella repaired with your own hands using the technology described above. The dome fabric is now securely fixed and water will not get on the frame parts.
If the cap is unscrewed and lost, you can restore it using a self-tapping screw with a large press washer.
To do this, you need to make a cork from wood. The diameter of a shortened furniture dowel may be suitable, as shown in the photo.
In the next step, a hole with a diameter equal to the internal diameter of the self-tapping screw is drilled in the center of the plug.
All that remains is to lubricate the thread of the self-tapping screw with waterproof glue and screw it into the plug. As you can see, it turned out beautifully.
If you don’t have a self-tapping screw with a wide head, you can cut a round washer from a sheet of plastic of a suitable color and attach it to the dome. The washer can be made from any plastic bottle cap by removing the threaded part.
About the repair of automatic umbrellas
Repair of automatic umbrellas is not considered in the article, since it is very labor-intensive and is beyond the capabilities of a home craftsman without repair experience. It is necessary to completely disconnect the dome material from the metal structure, remove the top cage, get to the roller and replace the tape. During assembly, a special device is required to compress a fairly powerful spring. Therefore, if the opening mechanism in an automatic umbrella fails, it is better to contact a workshop or buy a new umbrella, leaving the broken one for spare parts.
Usually, many people throw away umbrellas due to minor breakdowns, which are generally easy to fix even for an inexperienced craftsman. Mostly, the rods break at the point of their hinge connection, which is carried out using an axle. More often this happens with a large rod in node “A” (Fig. 1), since this rod in the open umbrella bears the main load, and even a slight lateral pressure on it leads to the rod breaking, as a result of which the compression hook of the power spring is usually lost.
Rice. 1. Design of the umbrella frame: A, B and C – places of the most common breakdowns; 1 – upper linkage fastening unit; 2 – hairpin; 3 – depreciation spring; 4 – power spring bushing; 5 – power spring; 6 – sleeve for fixing the umbrella when folded; 7 – cavity for the latch hook; 8 – power spring compression hook; 9 – traction
When starting to repair the rod, first of all you should relieve the tension in the elements of the umbrella frame created by the power spring. To do this, the upper end of the umbrella is rested against some surface, for example, against a door, and the power spring is compressed with the sleeve for fixing the umbrella when folded so that all the hooks that hold the spring in a compressed state can be freely unhooked from the rods. When releasing the hooks, you must not weaken the compression of the spring, otherwise the other rods may break.
Rice. 2. Repair of broken rods (using a lining): a – lining; b, c and d – sequence of operations during repair; d – repair with installation of a new axle; 1 – whole thrust; 2 – broken rod; 3 – overlay
To repair a broken rod, you will have to make a connecting pad. To do this, you should cut out a plate measuring 45×13 mm from 0.2...0.3 mm tinned sheet metal (the width is given in excess, since it is not always possible to bend the plate symmetrically exactly along the longitudinal axis), turn the plate into a “trough” so that the latter was tightly put on the rod being repaired, giving the lining the desired shape (Fig. 2, a).
The broken and intact rods are freed from the fabric; if the first one is deformed, it is straightened. The areas of the connected ends of the rod that will be located under the lining must be tinned in excess. If the axle on the attached (whole) rod has no defects, the rod with the axle is installed in place, as shown in Fig. 2, b, the axle on both sides is secured to the rod by soldering, and a connecting plate is installed (Fig. 2, c). Having fixed the end of the rod and the cover in the desired position using a compression clamp, the cover is soldered to the rod without disturbing the soldering of the axle. The other half of the rod is firmly inserted into the pad (Fig. 2d), after which the rod is fixed and the pad is soldered along its entire length. The joint is brought into proper shape, checking the functionality of the hinge joint.
If the axis on the attached rod is strongly bent and has any other defect, it is removed, a hole with a diameter of 1.5 mm is drilled in the lining, coinciding with the hole on the rod being repaired, and a wire is inserted into the hole, which will act as an axis. Next, carry out the same operations for connecting the rods that were described above. All that remains is to remove the wire, make an axis of the required length out of it and connect it with the rod axis. To prevent the axle from falling out of the rods and clinging to the fabric, it is soldered to the pad on both sides (Fig. 2e). The attachment of the fabric to the rods is restored. If there is easy access to the soldering point of the rod, it is better not to disconnect the fabric from the frame, but in order to avoid hot drops of tin getting on the fabric, you must first place a gasket between the fabric and the soldering point. The breakdown in node B is repaired in the same way (see Fig. 1).
Rice. 3. Repair of broken rods (using an insert and an overlay): a – insert; b – overlay; c, d and e – sequence of repair operations
Umbrellas in which the frame elements are made of thicker steel (in this case, the rods have narrower sidewalls), the broken rods in nodes A, B and C are connected using plug-in lugs, which are pressed against the sidewalls of the rods. For such umbrellas, breakage of the rods most often occurs in node B (see Fig. 1), since in this place the strength of the rod is weakened by the hole intended for the compression hook of the power spring. To repair such a rod, an insert-eye is bent from strong steel wire, the shape of which is shown in Fig. 3, a. The wire is selected with such a diameter that the insert fits tightly between the sidewalls of the rod. The length of the entire insert is approximately 45...50 mm. The main requirement for the insert is that when it is installed in place, the hook hook moves freely in the resulting cavity, and the insert itself does not interfere with the compact folding of the umbrella. To enhance the strength of the traction at the point of failure, it is still necessary to make an overlay from tinned sheet metal with a thickness of 0.2...0.3 mm (Fig. 3, b). Having made the fasteners, all that remains is to straighten the broken rod, tin the finished connecting insert with a thin layer of tin, insert the broken end of the rod closest to the handle so that the highest point of the curved part of the insert is located above the end of the hook hook (Fig. 3, c), and crimp the end of the insert traction sidewalls. Next, the second part of the rod is placed at the free end of the insert, the rod is compressed around the insert and the latter is soldered along its entire length. To increase the reliability of the connection, put an overlay on the place to be repaired, having previously drilled a hole in it with a diameter of 1.2 mm, coinciding with the hole on the rod being repaired, and solder the overlay to the rod.
Rice. 4. Mechanism for fixing the umbrella (manual) when opened: 1 – rod fastening unit; 2 – clamp; 3 – eye
There are cases when, after repair, umbrellas of this type do not fold completely. One of the reasons for this is the displacement of the ear inserts in the repaired units (especially in unit A), which usually occurs due to poor-quality crimping of the sidewalls of the rods. To eliminate such a defect, you will have to lightly hit the part of the eye protruding from the rod with a small hammer to move the eye to the desired place and again press the insert tightly with the sides of the rod. Please note that in order to more securely connect them to the rods, notches are made on the ear inserts (see Fig. 3, a).
In fact, broken rods are repaired only if there are no intact rods from any other umbrella of a similar design that cannot be repaired. Separating the required rod from the umbrella frame is not difficult. It is enough to cut off the flaring of the axles on a suitable rod with a knife and disconnect it from other rods and assemblies. And the axles for the “new” rod can be easily made from wire (or a nail) of the required diameter, not forgetting to solder the ends of the axle to the sides of the rod.
For umbrellas with an extended power spring, along with the above-mentioned breakdowns, the power spring bushing often cracks. I note that all the failed bushings that I dealt with were beyond repair, so to replace them I had to use suitable bushings from umbrellas of other designs. You can install a new bushing either through the upper or lower parts of the umbrella rod. You just need to determine which pin is easier to knock out: either the pin that secures the handle, or the pin that holds the upper linkage attachment. First of all, of course, you need to free the rods from the broken bushing and remove the latter. Installation of the bushing through the upper part of the rod is carried out in the following sequence: move the depreciation spring down (see Fig. 1), knock out the pin from the upper attachment point of the rods, remove this unit and install a new bushing. Assembling the umbrella, of course, is done in the reverse order.
Rice. 5. Option for repairing the umbrella fixation unit when open (using a clamp): a – pattern of a clamp blank; b – workpiece with soldered plates; c – drawing of the clamp
Rice. 6. Option for repairing the umbrella fixation unit in the open form (using surfacing and half-clamps): 1 – surfacing; 2 – half clamp
All of the above repair work is performed with the power spring compression hooks removed. Upon completion of the repair, check the presence of these hooks, make the missing number of them in the shape of the existing ones, install the umbrella fixation sleeve in a folded form so that the cavity (slot) of the hook on it is in line with the latch protrusion, hook the hooks to the sleeve, compress the power spring and insert the hooks into the holes of the rod.
By opening and folding the umbrella, check the correctness of its repair and assembly.
For umbrellas with manual opening, especially with a three-stage rod, in the mechanism that fixes the umbrella when opened, the eye in which the locking axis is installed often breaks due to excessive tension (in Fig. 4, the breakage point is shaded). If it is impossible to replace a failed mechanism, it can be repaired by making a clamp from 0.2...0.3 mm tin-plated sheet. It is clear that the dimensions of the workpiece for the clamp depend on the dimensions of the mechanism sleeve. In Fig. 5, and I gave the dimensions of the clamp blank for the fixation mechanism in the open form of my umbrella, where the size of 35 mm is the distance on the blank from eye to eye, measured along the outer diameter of the bushing. The dimensions of clamp blanks for other mechanisms are determined in the same way. The edges of the workpiece are bent (along the dotted lines) and, applying the edges to the ears of the mechanism, the contours of the ears are transferred to the edges and the location of the hole of the latch axis is precisely marked. Remove “extra” areas on the folds. To increase the strength of the clamp ears, it is better to solder to them plates cut to their size and shape (Fig. 5,b), not forgetting to drill holes in the bends. All that remains is to bend the workpiece, without allowing distortion, around the tube (rod), the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the bushing of the fixation mechanism, put the clamp in place, that is, on the bushing, eliminate the inaccuracies, select a screw with a nut instead of the axle, and assemble the mechanism. A drawing of the finished clamp is shown in Fig. 5, c.
Rice. 7. Design of the latch: 1 – locking protrusion; 2 – handle tube; 3 – hook protrusion
You can repair the mechanism in another way. It is a little simpler and takes less time to repair, but the ears are less durable. In this case, take a small plywood (or strip) approximately 5 mm thick and insert it into the slot of the fixation mechanism between the broken ears. Along the remaining part of the lug in the plywood, a hole for the axle is marked and drilled, nails of the appropriate diameter are inserted into the hole, the plywood is installed on the axle in the slot, and the missing parts of the lugs are welded from fragments of the lugs or other suitable material onto the body of the mechanism or glued to it. Next, two strips half the thickness of the ear are cut out of tin (stainless steel, copper, brass), and bent with a half-clamp. By placing one half-clamp on the ear, as shown in Fig. 6, heat the half-clamp with a soldering iron, gradually pressing it into the ear. We also press the second half-clamp into the other ear. All that remains is to remove the stud-axle, remove the plywood, process the ears, and then assemble the mechanism. Don't forget to check the welding quality for strength. (For those who have not welded plastic parts, I inform you that such work is performed in a well-ventilated area.)
With children's umbrellas with automatic opening, it happens that the protrusion of the hook at the latch that holds the umbrella when folded stops returning to its original position. This is due to the fact that the clamp is made of low-quality metal and simply bends under load. This kind of problem can be fixed quickly. To do this, you will have to press the locking protrusion (Fig. 7), move the protrusion towards the handle, pull the latch out of the rod tube, bend the latch at the bend point, and then insert the latch into place. True, after some time the retainer will lose its shape again, so it is better to immediately replace it with a new retainer made of high-quality steel. If you don’t find one, it’s easy to make a retainer yourself from elastic metal.
For those who are thinking about doing umbrella repair, I recommend making the devices shown in Fig. 8 and 9. Although they are primitive, they greatly simplify the repair process. So, to mold the overlays (see Fig. 2,a), you will have to make a simple stamp. The die matrix (Fig. 8a) is bent from sheet steel 1.5 mm thick. In the center of the bottom of the “trough”, a depression is formed with a beard or other suitable tool. The punch (Fig. 8,b), which has a protrusion in the center, is made from a strip of steel 3...4 mm thick. When forming an overlay, a plate measuring 45...50×13 mm is placed on the matrix so that there is a recess under the center of the plate, a punch is placed on top and hit with a hammer. All. The overlay is ready, all that remains is to work on it a little. By the way, the matrix described above is also useful for straightening the rods, but the punch will have to be made new (Fig. 8, c). The deformed rod is placed in the recess of the matrix, after which it is straightened with a punch.
Rice. 8. Die for making linings and straightening rods: a – matrix; b and c – punches
It is also necessary to make devices for compressing the power spring (Fig. 9). The operating principle of this device is similar to that of a simple screw press. Here, two crossbars “run” along two guides (Fig. 10), one of which acts as a base, and the second as a slider, which can be moved by turning or unscrewing the wings on the guides where the M6 thread is cut. Each crossbar consists of two halves (Fig. 10,a).
Rice. 9. Device for compressing the power spring: 1 – crossbar (jumper); 2 – split washer; 3 – power spring bushing; 4 – sleeve for fixing the umbrella when folded; 5 – pin (guide)
We’ll tell you a little about how to compress a spring using this device. First, two halves of the jumper are put on each pin (guide) and screwed on the lamb. Complete assembly of the device is carried out directly on the umbrella. The halves are connected with screws, as a result of which the resulting jumpers wrap around the rod of the umbrella handle. The device is now ready to compress the spring. You just need to tighten the screws. This simplifies the process of removing and installing the spring compression hooks, described at the beginning of the text.
Rice. 10. Design of the crossbar (lintel): a – drawing of half of the lintel; b – assembled jumper
A little about fabric. Broken ends of rods, as a rule, tear the fabric of the umbrella. Small holes can be sealed with the same fabric using BF-6 glue, which is sold in pharmacies, but it is easier to stick a transparent self-adhesive film onto the damaged area, as my friends do.
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The present invention relates to an automatically opening umbrella, and in particular to a locking device for an automatically opening umbrella. The object of the invention is to create a locking device for an automatically opening umbrella, which prevents unwanted opening of the umbrella during retraction of the telescopic central rod and has a simplified design. A locking device is claimed for an automatically opening umbrella, wherein the umbrella contains a central rod containing upper and lower tubes telescopically connected to each other along the longitudinal axis. The above-mentioned central rod has an upper end side and a lower end. The above-mentioned umbrella also includes an upper sleeve and a handle body secured to the upper end side and the lower end of the central rod, respectively. The umbrella includes a slider mounted on a central rod and configured to slide between upper and lower positions, respectively, away from and near said lower end. The aforementioned umbrella also includes a deployment spring mounted in the central rod to bias the upper tube to move from a retracted position in which the upper sleeve is proximate to the handle body to an extended position in which the upper sleeve is distant from the handle body. The umbrella includes a rib-and-spacer system connecting the upper sleeve and the slider and is designed to expand when the slider is moved to the upper position, and to fold when the slider is moved to the lower position. The above umbrella includes a locking element for preventing the upper tube from moving to the extended position by counteracting the bias mechanism of the opening spring. Moreover, the said blocking device contains a pulling cord having a tightly fixed end, configured to move under tension with the upper sleeve, and a first segment of the cord that extends from the tightly fixed end to the runner and which is wound on the runner. Moreover, the first segment of the cord passes upward through the upper sleeve, and then downward to form a second segment of the cord, which passes into the central rod and along the direction of travel and which ends with a fixed end located in the handle body. The above locking device contains a drum element configured to rotate around a winding axis in the handle body. Here, the end of the pull cord is secured such that the second segment of the cord is unwound when the upper tube is moved to the extended position, and wound when the tube is manually operated to move it to the retracted position. The locking device also includes a drum bias spring configured to bias the drum member for winding the second cord segment when the top tube is manually operated to move it to a retracted position. The above locking device contains a push button configured to be actuated manually to perform a pressing action relative to the handle body. In this case, the locking element splits and the upper tube moves to an extended position. The technical result of the invention is the creation of a locking device for an automatically opening umbrella, which prevents unwanted opening of the umbrella during retraction of the telescopic central rod and has a simplified design. 8 salary f-ly, 9 ill.
The present invention relates to an automatically opening umbrella, and in particular to a locking device for an automatically opening umbrella.
A conventional automatic umbrella disclosed in Chinese patent application No. 200710009892.1, as shown in Fig. 1, contains a telescopic central rod 1, an opening spring 2 located in the central rod 1, a handle 3 attached to the lower end of the central rod 1, a control unit 4, mounted in the handle 3, and an actuator 5, fixed between the handle 3 and the central rod 1. The control unit 4 contains a drum 401, a cord 402 wound on the drum 401, a spiral spring 403 and a unidirectional clamping device 404 located between the drum 401 and the handle 3. When the central rod 1 is retracted to close the umbrella by the coil spring 403, the cord 402 can be wound so that if the user, by pressing the central rod 1, involuntarily allows the umbrella to slip out of his/her grip, the clamping device 404 can prevent the unwinding rotation of the drum 401, thereby preventing unwanted stretching of the central rod 1. However, the control unit 4 has a complex structure, as a result of which the handle 3 is quite bulky.
An object of the present invention is to provide a locking device for an automatically opening umbrella, which can prevent unwanted opening of the umbrella during retraction of the telescopic central rod and which has a simplified structure.
According to the present invention, a locking device for an automatically opening umbrella comprises a force transmitting cord, a drum element, a drum biasing spring, a push button, a unidirectional locking device and a gripping device. The umbrella contains a telescopic central rod, an upper bushing and a handle body, mounted respectively on the upper end side and the lower end of the central rod, a slider sliding along the central rod between the upper and lower positions for expanding and collapsing the rib-and-spacer system, and a locking block, disposed to releasably delay movement of the upper tube of the central rod to the extended position by counteracting the biasing mechanism of the opening spring.
The pulling cord has a tightly fixed end, which is moved under tension with the upper sleeve, and a first cord segment that extends from the tightly fixed end to the runner and which is wound on the runner. The first cord segment then extends upward through the top sleeve and then downwards to form a second cord segment which is further guided into the central shaft and along the direction of travel and which ends at a fixed end located in the handle body.
The drum member is freely rotatable within the handle body and is designed such that the end of the pull cord is secured such that a second segment of cord is unwound when the top tube is moved to the extended position and reeled in when the top tube is manually moved to the retracted position.
A drum bias spring is proposed to bias the drum element to wind the second cord segment when the top tube is manually pressed to the retracted position.
The push button is manually actuated to perform a push motion against the handle body to release the locking block so that the top tube can be moved to the extended position.
A unidirectional locking device is located between the push button and the drum element and is movable, in response to the pressing movement of the push button, from a locking position, in which the drum element is protected from performing an unwinding movement, to a free rotation position, in which the drum element is allowed to unwind the second cord segment. .
The gripping device is located in the central rod and contains a shutter element and a locking body. The shutter element is located in the upper tube and blocks the stroke direction to separate the stroke direction into a gripping zone and a driving zone. The closure member has an entry hole that is designed to allow the second cord segment to pass through it in the normal state, and which is formed to be expandable for installation in the expanded state. The stop body is located in the movement zone when the slider is in the up position, and is configured to move with the second cord segment so that if the slider is moved from the top position to the down position, the stop body is forced to be pushed through the inlet hole to provide an expanded state of the inlet hole and placement in the capture zone. The locking body remains in the gripping area after the entry hole returns to its normal state. In this way, unwanted stretching and opening of the umbrella, which could cause harm to the user or a nearby person, can be eliminated.
Additional features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following detailed description of a preferred embodiment of the present invention with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which the following is shown:
Fig.1 - the handle of a conventional automatic umbrella, in section;
Fig. 2 shows an automatically opening umbrella in a closed state, containing a locking device in accordance with a preferred embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is an enlarged schematic view of a preferred embodiment of the present invention; FIG.
FIG. 4 is a detailed view of a preferred embodiment of the present invention; FIG.
Fig. 5 is a sectional view of a gripping device in accordance with a preferred embodiment of the present invention;
Fig. 6 shows an automatically opening umbrella in an open state, in accordance with a preferred embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 7 is an enlarged view of a preferred embodiment of the present invention when the push button is pressed;
Fig. 8 is a sectional view of an automatically opening umbrella in a folded state, in accordance with a preferred embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 9 is a sectional view of a gripping device in accordance with a preferred embodiment of the present invention.
Figures 2, 3 and 6 show a preferred embodiment of a locking device in accordance with the present invention included in an automatically opening umbrella. The umbrella typically includes a center rod 300, an upper bushing 500, a handle body 200, a slider 600, a deployment spring 400, a rib-and-spacer system 700, and a locking block.
The central rod 300 contains upper, middle and lower tubes 330, 320, 310, which are telescopically connected to each other along the longitudinal axis. The upper and lower tubes 330 and 310, respectively, have an upper end and a lower end within the central rod 300. The lower tube 310 has a tapered support portion 340. The upper sleeve 500 and the handle body 200 are secured to the upper end and lower end of the central rod 300, respectively. The handle body 200 defines a guide bar 210 extending along a straight path parallel to the longitudinal axis. The slider 600 is mounted on the central rod 300 and slides between upper and lower positions, which are respectively away from and near the lower end. An expansion spring 400 is mounted in the central rod 300 to bias the upper tube to move from a retracted position, in which the upper sleeve 500 is proximate to the handle body 200, to an extended position, in which the upper sleeve 500 is removed from the handle body 200. The rib-and-spacer system 700 interconnects the upper bushing 500 and the slider 600 and is designed to be deployed when the slider 600 is moved to the up position and collapsed when the slider 600 is moved to the down position. The locking block includes an engaging hole 330 / that is formed on a lower portion of the upper tube 330, and a locking ring 920 that is movably positioned in the handle body 200 for detachable connection with the engaging hole 330 / to prevent movement of the upper tube 330 to the extended position by counteraction. bias mechanism of the opening spring 400.
As shown in FIG. 4, the locking device includes a pull cord 800, a drum member 10, a drum bias spring 20, a push button 910, a unidirectional locking device 30, and a gripping device 40.
The pull cord has a permanently attached end 801 that is tensioned with the upper sleeve 500, and a first cord segment 802 that extends from the permanently attached end 801 to the runner 600 and which is wound around the runner 600. The first cord segment 802 then extends upward through the upper sleeve 500 and then downward to form a second cord segment 803 that extends into the central shaft 300 and along the direction of travel and which terminates at a fixed end 804 located in the handle body 200.
The drum member 10 is freely rotatable in the handle body 200 about the winding axis, with the end 804 of the pull cord 800 secured such that the second cord segment 803 unwinds when the upper tube 330 is forced to an extended position, and winds when the upper tube 330 is manually pressed to the retracted position. The drum bias spring 20 is configured to bias the drum member 10 to wind the second cord segment 803 when the top tube 330 is manually pressed to the retracted position.
The push button 910 is manually actuated to perform a push motion against the handle body 200 to disengage the locking block, thereby allowing the top tube 330 to be moved to an extended position. In this embodiment, the locking block ring 920 is integrally formed with the push button 910.
The unidirectional locking device 30 includes a ratchet wheel 31, a ratchet pawl 32, a pawl biasing member 34, a lever 33, and a drive pin 930. The ratchet wheel 31 fits on and rotates with the drum member 10 and has a series of ratchet teeth 311 angled to each other. to each other around the axis of the drum. The ratchet pawl 32 has a protruding drive portion 323, two sliders 322 mounted on a guide bar 210 and sliding along a straight path that is perpendicular to the direction of pressing movement of the push button 910, and a locking end 321 movable relative to the ratchet wheel 31 between a locking position, as shown. in FIG. 3, where the locking end 321 is engaged with one of the ratchet teeth 311 so as to prevent the unwinding movement of the drum member 10, and the free rotation position as shown in FIG. 7, where the locking end 321 is disengaged from the ratchet wheel 31 so as to allow the drum element 10 to unwind the second segment 803 of the pull cord 800. The pawl biasing element 34 is positioned to bias the ratchet pawl 32 to a locking position. The lever 33 is hinged on the handle body about a rotation axis parallel to the winding axis of the drum member 10, and has a drive end 333 that engages with the drive portion 323 so as to move the locking end 321 of the ratchet pawl 32 from a locked position to a free rotation position, and a force transmitting end 332 that is driven by the push motion of the push button 910. The drive pin 930 is integrally formed with the push button 910 so as to be movable with it so as to transmit the push motion to the force transmitting end 332 of the lever 33. B In this embodiment of the present invention, the push button 910, the locking ring 920, and the drive pin 930 are configured as an integral switch assembly 900.
Referring to FIG. 5, the gripping device 40 is located in the central rod 300 and includes a closure member 41, a locking body 45, a pressure head 43, and a tubular drive 44. The closure member 41 is secured to the upper tube 330 and blocks the direction of travel of the second segment 803 of the pull cord 800. to divide the direction of travel into gripping and driving zones (A, B) that are respectively proximate and distant from the upper sleeve 500. The closure member 41 has left and right closure halves that together define an inlet opening 47 allowing the second cord segment 803 to pass through it in the normal state, and which move away from each other radially so as to provide an expanded state of the inlet hole 47. The two shutter springs 42 respectively bias the left and right shutter halves 411 to move towards each other. The left and right closure halves 411 further jointly define an opening 48 that is spatially coupled to the inlet 47 and which is designed to expand downwardly. The stop body 45 is movably fixed to the second segment 803 of the pull cord 800. As shown in FIG. 6, when the slider 600 is positioned in the upper position, the stop body 45 is located in the movement region (B). The pressure head 43 is tubular for pulling the pull cord 800 through it and has an engaging edge 432 that tapers toward the closure element 41 and which engages the opening 48 of the closure element 41, and a pressure end 433 that is opposite the engaging end 432. The tubular actuator 44 has an upper end 441 that engages the pressure end 433 of the pressing head 43, and a lower end 442 that is positioned to abut the stop portion 340 of the lower tube 310 when the upper tube 330 is moved to the retracted position, as shown in FIG. 2. so as to generate an upward pressure force, which is transmitted to the pressing head 43 such that the engaging edge 432 is pressed against the closure member 41 so as to move the left and right closure halves 411 radially away from each other, thereby providing an expanded state of the inlet hole 47 The head spring 46 is designed to displace the engaging edge 432 from the opening 48.
When the umbrella is in the closed state, as shown in FIGS. 2-4, the top tube 330 is in a retracted position such that the locking ring 920 is engaged in the engagement hole 330/ and the rib-and-spacer system 700 is folded. In this case, the opening spring 400 is compressed, and the pawl 32 of the ratchet mechanism is engaged with one of the teeth 311 of the ratchet wheel 31, and the pulling cord 800 is wound.
Consider FIGS. 6 and 7. When the push button 910 is pressed, the locking ring 920 extends from the engagement hole 330 / and the lever 33 is pivoted by the engagement between the drive pin 930 and the force transmitting end 332 to cause the ratchet pawl 32 to move to the free rotation position. . At this point, the central rod 300 can be pulled into an extended position by the bias mechanism of the opening spring 400, and the slider 600 is moved upward by pulling the pull cord 800 and rotating the drum element 10, thereby deploying the umbrella rib-and-strut system 700. It should be noted that when the slider 600 is moved to the upper position, the stop body 45 moves to pass through the inlet 47 into the movement area (B), and the inlet 47 is installed in the normal state since the lower end 442 of the tubular actuator 44 is not in contact with a support section 340 of the lower tube 310.
Consider FIGS. 8 and 9. To close the umbrella, the push button 910 is pressed and the slider 600 is pulled down to a lower position so that the locking body 45 is forced to push through the inlet 47 to set the inlet in an expanded state, and thus placed in the capture zone (A). The stop body 45 remains in the gripping area (A) after the inlet 47 returns to its normal state. Therefore, the rib-and-strut system 700 cannot be deployed at this stage.
Referring again to FIGS. 8 and 4, when it is desired to telescope the umbrella, a pressing force is applied to cause the handle body 200 and the top sleeve 500 to move toward each other. Due to the bias mechanism of the drum bias spring 20, the ratchet wheel 31 rotates to wind the pull cord 800 onto the drum member 10 and intermittently strikes the ratchet pawl 32 so as to provide audible and perceptible feedback to the user until the engagement hole 330 / in the slider 600 will not catch on the locking ring 920 and the umbrella will be in the closed state, as shown in Fig.2. It should be noted that the inlet 47 is forced to be in an expanded state when passing the stop body 45 while opening the umbrella.
During the folding of the umbrella, as shown in FIG. 8, if the user involuntarily loses his grip on the central rod 300, due to the engagement between the ratchet pawl 32 and the ratchet wheel 31, the movement of the pull cord 800 is delayed in order to hold the slider 600, the central rod 300 and 700 rib-and-strut system in place. In this way, unwanted stretching and opening of the umbrella, which could cause harm to the user or person nearby, can be eliminated. In addition, since the locking body 45 remains in the gripping area (A) when the slider 600 is in the lower position, movement of the slider 600 to the upper position can be prevented so as to keep the rib-and-spacer system 700 in the folded state. Here, the unidirectional locking device 30 has a simple structure in order to make the handle body 200 compact and lightweight.
Although the present invention has been described in terms of what is believed to be the most practical and preferred embodiment, it should be noted that the invention is not limited to the disclosed embodiment, but is intended to cover various constructions within the spirit and scope of the broad interpretations and equivalent devices.
1. A locking device for an automatically opening umbrella, wherein the umbrella contains
a central rod (300) comprising upper and lower tubes (330, 310) telescopically connected to each other along a longitudinal axis, the central rod (300) having an upper end side and a lower end;
an upper sleeve (500) and a handle body (200) secured respectively to the upper end side and lower end of the central rod (300); a slider (600) mounted on the central rod (300) and slidable between upper and lower positions, respectively, away from and near said lower end; an opening spring (400) mounted in the central rod (300) designed to bias the upper tube (330) to move from a retracted position in which the upper bushing (500) is close to the handle body (200) to an extended position in which the upper the sleeve is distant from the handle body (200);
rib-and-spacer system (700) connecting the upper bushing (500) and the slider (600) and configured to expand when the slider (600) is moved to the upper position, and to fold when the slider (600) is moved to the lower position position;
a locking member (330") for preventing the upper tube (330) from moving to the extended position by counteracting the bias mechanism of the opening spring (400); said locking device comprising:
a pulling cord (800) having a tightly secured end (801) configured to move under tension with an upper sleeve (500), and a first cord segment (802) that extends from the tightly secured end (801) to a runner (600) and which is wound around the runner (600), with a first segment (802) of cord extending upward through the upper sleeve (500) and then downwards to form a second segment (803) of cord which extends into the central rod (300) and along the direction of travel and which ends with a fixed end (804) located in the handle body (200);
a drum element (10) rotatable about a winding axis in the handle body (200), wherein the end (804) of the pull cord (800) is secured such that the second segment (803) of the cord is unwound when the upper tube (330) moves to the extended position, and reels when the tube (330) is manually operated to move it to the retracted position;
a drum bias spring (20) for biasing the drum member (10) to wind the second cord segment (803) when the upper tube (330) is manually operated to move it to a retracted position;
a push button (910) configured to be manually actuated to apply pressure relative to the handle body (200), whereby the locking element (330", 920) is split and the upper tube (330) is moved to an extended position; unidirectional locking device (30) located between the push button (910) and the drum element (10) and configured to move in response to the action of the push button (910) from a locking position in which the drum element (10) is protected from performing an unwinding movement, to a position free rotation, in which the specified drum element unwinds the second segment (803) of the cord; and a gripping device (40) located in the central rod (300) and containing
a shutter element (41) located in the upper tube (330), blocking the stroke direction to divide the stroke direction into a gripping zone and a moving zone (A, B), which are respectively located near and far from the upper sleeve (500), wherein the shutter element ( 41) has an inlet (47) through which the second cord segment (803) passes in the normal state and which is expandable to be positioned in the expanded state, and
a locking body (45) which is located in the movement zone (B) when the runner (600) is in the upper position, and movable with the second cord segment (803), wherein the locking body (45) is formed so that if the runner (600) moves from the upper position to the lower one, the locking body (45) is pushed through the inlet hole (47) to bring the inlet hole (47) into an expanded state and is located in the gripping zone (A), and the locking body (45) remains in the area ( A) capture after returning the inlet (47) to its normal state.
2. The device according to claim 1, characterized in that the gripping device (40) contains a clamping head (43) having an engaging edge (432) engaged with the closure element (41), and a pressure end (433), which is located opposite the engaging edge edge (432), wherein if the upper tube (330) is moved to the retracted position, the engaging edge (432) is pressed against the closure element (41) by means of an upward pressing force transmitted to the pressure end (433) to form an expanded state of the inlet hole (47 ).
3. The device according to claim 2, characterized in that the gripping device (40) includes a tubular drive (44) having an upper end (441) engaged with the pressure end (433) of the clamping head (43), and a lower end (442) , which butts against the lower end of the central rod (300) when the upper tube (330) is in the retracted position to create an upward pressure force.
4. The device according to claim 3, characterized in that the engaging edge (432) tapers towards the closure element (41), and the closure element (41) has left and right closure halves (411) which define the inlet opening (47) and which configured to be radially movable from each other to bring the inlet (47) into an expanded state, wherein the left and right closure halves (411) limit the aperture (48), which is in spatial interaction with the inlet (47) and which diverges or articulates with the engaging edge (432) so that when an upward pressure force is transmitted to the pressure end (433) of the pressing head (43), the left and right closure halves (411) move radially away from each other to bring the inlet (47) into an expanded state.
5. The device according to claim 4, characterized in that the gripping device (40) contains two bolt springs (42), designed to displace the left and right bolt halves, respectively, to bring them closer to each other, as well as a head spring (46), designed to move said engaging edge (432) away from the closure element (41).
6. Device according to claim 1, characterized in that the unidirectional locking device (30) comprises
a ratchet wheel (31) rotatable with the drum element (10) and having a number of ratchet teeth (311) located at an angle to each other around the axis of the drum,
a ratchet pawl (32) having a locking end (321) and movable relative to the ratchet wheel (31) between a locking position in which the locking end (321) engages one of the ratchet teeth (311) to prevent unwinding movement of the drum element (10), and a free rotation position in which the locking end (321) is disengaged from the ratchet wheel (31), and
a lever (33) hinged in the handle body (200) and having a drive end (333) for moving the ratchet pawl (32) from a locked position to a free rotation position, and a force transmitting end (332) that is activated by a push motion push button (910), with the drive end (333) moving the ratchet pawl (32) to the free rotation position.
7. The device according to claim 6, characterized in that the unidirectional locking device (30) includes an actuating pin (930) movable with a push button (910) to transmit a pressing movement to the force transmitting end (332) of the lever (33), and a pawl biasing member (34) configured to bias the ratchet pawl (32) to a locking position.
8. The device according to claim 7, characterized in that the lever (33) is hinged in the housing (200) of the handle, around an axis of rotation that is parallel to the winding axis of the drum element (10), and the pawl (32) of the ratcheting mechanism is movable relative to the ratchet wheel (31) along a linear path that is perpendicular to the direction of the pressing movement of the push button (910).
9. The device according to claim 8, characterized in that the drive pin (930) is made as a single unit with the push button (910), and the handle body (200) limits the guide bar (210) for directing the movement of the pawl (32) of the ratchet mechanism along a linear path.
A device for opening/closing an automatic umbrella contains: a rod assembly, a frame, a socket, a first slider, a second slider, a drive mechanism and a handle. The rod assembly includes a first tube and a second tube; the frame is connected to the socket and the second engine; The drive mechanism includes a screw rod and a pusher. The pusher has a drive part and an internal threaded element; the pusher is connected to the first tube by means of a connecting member which is inserted into the second tube, and the second tube has a slot made along its outer wall so that the connecting member moves up and down along the slot, the pusher has a driving part, a connecting part and a deformable portion, wherein the deformable portion is axially rigid and retains a cylindrical shape, but deforms and recovers its original shape in the torque direction. 7 salary f-ly, 7 ill.
Locking device for automatically opening umbrella
Do a mini test. Ask the woman to answer the question why she needs an umbrella in two words. The expected answer will not always be “from the rain”; more often you will hear “for the rain”. This is because she began to tell the truth, that is, “for me,” but, as always, she caught herself and finished the phrase as needed. In the end, what we heard was what we got. And don’t even think about drawing the lady’s attention to the inappropriately uttered prefix “for” - you’ll end up with a mini hysteria. She chooses an umbrella in accordance with her wardrobe and values it; an even more serious case is when it is chosen “for the soul,” that is, it brings to her some kind of positive mood according to her concepts and even perhaps sets a manner of behavior. And since a woman is always a lady, and a lady should not bother with opening an umbrella and the most that is permissible is to press a button, then her umbrella is always automatic.
And then he broke down. Men's umbrellas also break, but very, very rarely. It’s high time to replace the other one with a more perfect or suitable one, or just a new one, but it’s intact, and throwing away a serviceable thing that your hand has gotten used to and hasn’t lost yet is out of character. Women's umbrellas often break down. As a rule, the wind is to blame. A woman comes home and always shows the damaged umbrella to her husband; she must somehow calm down her annoyance and calm herself down. She is sure that it can no longer be repaired. But she is wrong.
You can repair any automatic umbrella without resorting to the services of a professional technician. The main obstacle to repairing an automatic umbrella is disassembling it. You won't be able to handle the powerful spring that opens with your bare hands. And it's not necessary. You just need to make a simple device and apply it. To do this, you need a couple of metal plates and threaded rods with nuts. The size of the blank plates is 80 x 22 x 5 mm, the length of the pins is 150 mm (but better 20 mm longer), the thickness is 6 mm and, accordingly, the thread on the edges is M6 (8 mm is possible with the appropriate thread). There should be 10 mm of thread on one side, and a lot of threads on the other - 40 or even 60 mm.
We drill holes, initially all with a diameter of 5 mm. Three pieces on each plate. One in the center and two at the edges, 10 mm away from the edge. Then we cut an M6 thread in one of the plates in the outer holes - and it is ready. In the second, we drill out the outer holes to a diameter of 6 mm, and the central one to a diameter of 11 mm. We saw through the central hole from the long side and processed it with a file.
It turns out this is the design. However, to use it, it must be disassembled. Assembly is carried out at the place of use, in an umbrella.
To do this, the tip is unscrewed from the outside of the umbrella, from the inside, the free tip of the umbrella is inserted into the middle hole of the plate with one pin installed, the second pin is screwed into the plate, and the second plate is put on top of the pins.
Nuts are installed on the threads of the studs (simple or wing nuts - whichever is more convenient for you) which are twisted alternately, two to three turns, which entails the movement of the upper plate, which in turn compresses the working spring of the umbrella. Compression is carried out until the ties located around the perimeter are weakened and they can be easily removed from the lower strut. The device is removed. The springs are removed from the working position and now it is possible to easily eliminate the malfunction that has arisen.
Saving money on the purchase of a new umbrella is pleasant in itself, but in addition to this, a woman does not lose the opportunity to communicate with a familiar and sometimes dear image item, while a man who repairs an umbrella for a lady can well count on her attention and favor. Author - Babay iz Barnaula.
