How to plant indoor Lilies with seeds: planting and care, how and when to replant?

Lily is a perennial flower that grows in one place for at least five years.

In this regard, special attention should be paid to selecting a place for planting and developing the soil, following all the recommendations of experienced gardeners. We will consider in detail when and how to plant lilies in this article.

How to choose a place?

Lily is a light-loving plant, so planting it in a shady place is not recommended.

If you plant this flower under trees or in an area that is in the shade of buildings for most of the day, then you may not expect beautiful flowering.

When choosing a site, you need to pay attention to the soil. You should not place the lily in a damp place, as the bulbs will begin to rot there.

Be especially careful that the place where the lilies are planted is not flooded with meltwater in the spring.

The soil for planting should be loose and as breathable as possible. Before planting, the area must be dug well and humus, peat and mineral fertilizers added to the ground.

When is the best time to replant lilies?

When to plant lilies? Lilies can be planted in autumn and spring.

At the same time, spring planting of lilies has both pros and cons. The positive thing is that the bulbs will not freeze over the winter.

Spring planting promotes flower survival and the formation of powerful roots.

At the same time, the disadvantage of spring planting is the untimely appearance of sprouts in purchased specimens. This happens because when selling, the bulbs are taken out of cold warehouses, and once in the heat, they quickly sprout.

But it is not always possible to plant them in the ground at this time, since the weather does not permit. In this case, the bulbs should remain in the soil until the sprouts become higher than 10-15 cm.

Spring planting is also unfavorable in hot and dry weather. The bulb under such conditions may dry out and not sprout.

Autumn planting is most suitable for the flower. It is produced at the end of September. Before the onset of frost, the bulb has time to take root, and the winter period passes well for it. In the spring, as soon as warm weather arrives, sprouts appear from the ground, and the lily begins to develop and prepare for flowering.

Unfortunately, autumn planting has one significant drawback - the paucity of assortment on sale. Sellers begin selling bulbs in the spring. Sometimes it is not possible to save purchased bulbs until autumn.

Landing technology

How to plant lilies correctly? For planting lilies, holes are prepared, approximately 30-40 cm deep.

A layer of gravel is placed at the bottom, then a layer of sand, and a small layer of soil is sprinkled on top.

The holes should be located at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other.

Before planting, the bulbs are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate, then with a fungicide. Place the onion at the bottom of the hole, straightening the roots along its diameter.

The planting depth depends on the size of the specimen. Usually they are guided by the height of the bulb; the height of the soil above it should be three times greater than it.

The planting is covered with a layer of soil, making a kind of mound, and the top is mulched with peat, humus or small pine needles.

Lilies from seeds: planting and care

Let's look at how to plant lilies with seeds.

The seeds are sown in February or early March in a mixture of leaf soil and sand. Garden soil with the addition of humus, peat and sand will also work.

Before planting, Lily seeds must be disinfected with a 2% concentration of hydrogen peroxide solution.

Experienced gardeners advise soaking the seeds in a 0.04% zinc sulfate solution. This will speed up the emergence of seedlings and protect them from bacteria.

Pour a layer of substrate into a flat container and bury the seeds 0.5 cm into it. Sprinkle sand on top of the crops. Moisten everything with a spray bottle and cover with transparent film or glass.

Germination should be done at a temperature of 20-25 degrees in a bright place. After the sprouts appear, the shelter must be removed and the temperature reduced to 15-18 degrees for several days - this will prevent the sprouts from stretching.

After the leaves appear, the plants are planted in separate pots. They can be transplanted into open ground in early June, when the threat of frost has passed.

Rules for transplanting lilies

Lilies can grow in one place for at least 4-5 years, then they should be replanted.

The process itself is called “transplantation” only conditionally. You can plant them again in the same area after certain manipulations.

It is necessary to undergo a transplant due to the fact that the mother's bulb, starting from the 4th year, forms children around itself. As a result, the nest grows.

If you do not dig up and plant overgrown nests, the flowering of the lily will slow down and then stop altogether.

It is better to transplant lilies in the fall, when the dormant period begins. It is important to do this before the first frost so that the transplanted bulbs have time to take root. If the autumn is too warm, then it is better to delay the process so that the transplanted specimens do not begin to grow.

When transplanting, the bulb is removed from the ground and the children are separated. Then they are washed in a solution of karbofos for about 15 - 20 minutes.

You need to dig up the bulb with the utmost care. Any damage will lead to her death.

After processing, the bulbs need to be dried in the shade and the roots trimmed by 9-10 cm. If you plant lilies in the same place where they grew before, the soil must be carefully dug up, humus and superphosphate added to it.

After planting, do not water the soil. If the weather is rainy, the landing site should be protected from rain with film.

Following these simple rules for planting and replanting lilies will help you grow beautiful flowers that will become a real decoration of your site.

Detailed information and advice from experienced gardeners about all methods of propagating lilies can be found on our website: Propagation of lilies.

Useful video

Watch the video with details about transplanting lilies:

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How to grow lilies and achieve gorgeous blooms. Subtleties of planting and care

When choosing a lily, its name is a secondary matter; the group to which a particular variety belongs is of key importance. Belonging to a certain group also dictates the specifics of agricultural technology. In the publication What do the mysterious codes in the names of lilies mean? Features of growing different hybrids you can find information about the classification of lilies and their main features. Knowing which group a variety belongs to, you can understand what requirements it places on the gardener and how to care for it, because often the conditions for growing lilies of different varieties are directly opposite.

The conditions for growing lilies of different varieties can be exactly the opposite.

When planting lily bulbs in your garden, you should first answer a number of questions:

• Where to plant?
• How to plant?
• When to plant?
• What to plant with?

Where to plant

The answer to the first question will be unequivocal: it is necessary to place lilies in a sunny flower garden; this plant does not tolerate shading. The place should be well ventilated, but protected from strong winds.

The southern exposure of the flower garden, protected from the north by a wall. Photo by the author

When choosing a place for planting, you must remember that different groups of lilies will develop successfully only on a certain type of soil. It is known that "Asian women" prefer slightly acidic soil, Tubular hybrids – neutral soils, Oriental lilies and Martagons grow exclusively on sour, and snow-white hybrids – on alkaline soils.

The place where you plant the bulbs should not be flooded with melt and rain water. It is best if it is a raised bed or flower bed. You should know that lilies cannot be planted where tulips or gladioli used to grow, since they have the same pathogens. In general, marigolds are considered good predecessors for lilies, as they greatly improve the health of the soil.

How to plant

If we take into account the requirements of individual groups of lilies for the type of soil, then otherwise the rules of agricultural technology are almost the same. For planting Asian and Oriental hybrids, it is necessary to add a peat-compost mixture; for Tubular lilies, it is good to add wood ash, bone meal and lime (1 cup per m²). Martagons will require the addition of peat. The remaining groups develop well on neutral soils.

Lily bulbs

The planting depth for bulbs with “real” bottom roots is 3 times the height of the bulb. Bulbs of varieties that have stem roots are buried deeper - to the level of the aerial roots. Deeper planting is even preferable, since in this case it protects the plant from freezing in the fall.

In spring, deep-planted bulbs vegetate more slowly, which saves the growth buds from recurrent frosts. In summer, bulbs planted at sufficient depth do not experience a lack of moisture. After planting, mulching with compost or peat is necessary to maintain optimal soil moisture and temperature.

Birth of a lily

Before planting, the bulbs must be pickled in a pink solution of potassium permanganate or the “Maxim” preparation. This will be a prevention against rot (botrytis) and other diseases. During planting, you can dust the bulb already sitting in the hole that has not yet been filled with wood ash. Fine clean river sand should be added under the bottom, and the bulb itself should be covered with it up to the very neck, and then with earth. This technique will protect the lily from damping off.

Fertilizer application

To prepare a place for lilies, add a bucket of peat and leaf humus, 4 cups of wood ash, 100 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate per 1 m². With well-filled soil with organic matter, fertilizing for lilies should be predominantly mineral according to the usual scheme:

• in the spring 2 times with an interval of 2 weeks during the period of stem growth with a predominance of nitrogen fertilizers with the addition of microelements;
• in the second half of summer during the budding period, potassium preparations will be preferable.

During flowering, feeding is stopped. Towards the end of July - at the beginning of August they give the complex fertilizer “Fertika universal”.

When to plant

There is no clear answer to this question. According to the rules, it is recommended to bury new bulbs and divide old nests from late August to mid-September. However, in an early rainy and cold autumn, such bulbs may not take root and safely rot. In addition, in winter, the bulbs can become prey for mice, for whom they are a favorite treat.

When to plant? There is no clear answer to this question

To prevent this from happening, the snow at the place where lilies are planted must be trampled down, and the bulbs of especially valuable varieties must be planted in special plastic containers - such small baskets can be found in departments of plants for ponds. You can make them yourself from the mesh in which vegetables are usually packaged in supermarkets.

You can also choose similar containers in our market by looking at the selection of Baskets for bulbs.

An alternative could be spring planting; usually at this time, garden centers offer lily bulbs at bargain prices. However, we must not forget where there is free cheese. The quality of the bulbs purchased in the spring leaves much to be desired. They are usually limp, dried out, with spots of disease or other blemishes. The survival rate of such planting material is very low.

My gardening practice has proven that the best time to plant lilies, as paradoxical as it may sound, is summer, the flowering season. I usually buy plants with ZKS at the market in the nearest regional center or plants in pots with buds that are about to bloom or are already blooming at garden centers. In the first case, the product, that is, the lily, is shown face to face; you have the opportunity to evaluate the beauty of the flower, its aroma, and the height of the plant.

Blooming lilies with a closed root system in a garden center. Photo by the author

The name of the variety is written on the pots, and if you also know the group to which this or that variety belongs, then you can judge the specifics of agricultural technology. The survival rate of such lilies, as experience has shown, is one hundred percent; they won’t even notice how they end up in someone else’s garden. Moreover, you can “play” with such a lily by placing it in flower beds and achieving maximum color harmony.

Some gardeners arrange drainage for planting especially valuable varieties of lilies, especially oriental hybrids, by pouring crushed stone and sand into the bottom of the hole. The following video can be considered a good video instruction for summer planting a flowering lily purchased with a closed root system.

You can choose planting material in our market, which unites large online stores, where an impressive assortment awaits you. Check out the Lily Bulbs section.

What to plant with

Answering this question, I will definitely say - next to those plants that, firstly, bloom with lilies at the same time; secondly, where flowers grow with similar environmental requirements for lighting conditions and soil type. And thirdly, in the company of those plants that will favorably emphasize the regal beauty of these flowers. Lilies, as you know, have a lush, spectacular flowering “top” and a weakly leafy “bottom”, so they need companions that would compensate for this deficiency.

Bright phloxes are good with white lilies

Phloxes, which bloom with lilies at about the same time, are good as such comrades. The modern selection of phloxes allows you to select neighbors among them for almost any, even complexly colored lilies.

Blue phloxes go well with yellow, orange, and purple varieties of lilies. Photo by the author

An excellent neighbor would be Echinacea purpurea or yarrow, the hybrid varieties of which have different colors; you can choose a tone on tone or based on the principle of contrast.

A wonderful companion for lilies is Echinacea purpurea. Photo by the author

Good in company with lilies and astilbes with their lacy panicles.

The openwork panicles of astilbe create a hazy effect next to the lilies. Photo by the author

Garden geraniums are also extremely appropriate next to royal flowers. Their bushes, covered with small, unassuming flowers of pink, purple, blue or white color, like “foam,” will cover the “legs” of lilies.


Garden geranium ‘Rose Clair’. Photo by the author

Other ornamental plants with small flowers also go well with lilies: yarrow Ptarmika, which is popularly called pearl mussel, perennial and annual gypsophila, navel, speedwell.

White speedwell is used as a partner and neighbor for lilies. Photo by the author

Yellow and white varieties of lilies look great against the background blue delphiniums, and purple and pink ones are next to white varieties.

Lilies and delphiniums are good neighbors

It’s good to plant white bells, cornflowers, and even banal rustic cosmos together with lilies. The “legs” will be covered by cuffs or some annual flowering plants - ageratum, snapdragon, mignonette.

The “legs” of lilies will be covered by some annual flowering plants

You should not plant lilies next to daylilies, which will obviously lose this competition. And, of course, with roses, despite the opinion that this is a classic neighborhood. Lilies, of course, are suitable for the fertile soil of the rose garden and the opportunity to overwinter together with roses in a shelter (this is especially true for oriental and OT hybrids). But they are harmed by the presence of manure, which is usually used to mulch roses. And in decorative terms, these cultures will argue. In addition, the strong suffocating smell of many varieties of lilies completely drowns out the delicate aroma of roses.

It is also inadvisable to plant several fragrant varieties of lilies nearby, which will compete with each other, sometimes creating unbearable perfume combinations. Peonies and lilies are not the best neighbors for the same reason as roses. They are also usually fed with mullein, which is strictly contraindicated for lilies.

Martagons in a natural style flower garden. Photo by the author

Excessive decorativeness of lilies is contraindicated for flower beds in a natural style. It is better to use martagons there, where they will look more organic than in a regular mixborder or flowerbed.

By answering 4 important questions, you will have a clear idea of ​​where in your plot lilies can be grown, what you will need to prepare before the planting process, when exactly in your case you should plant this wonderful plant and which neighbors to choose for it. By doing everything right, you will get rid of disappointments and get wonderful healthy flowers.

When to plant lilies

Having decided to decorate his life with royal flowers, the gardener must decide when to plant lilies: in spring or autumn. A lot depends on the right timing: flowering, preparing the plant for winter, its health.

When is the best time to plant

Typically, gardeners prefer to plant lilies in the fall. This is correct from the point of view of the lily’s biological cycle: having completed its flowering, it begins preparations for winter. The corm restores the energy spent on luxurious flowers, stores nutrients, and then goes into a state of rest. This is the time that is favorable for planting. The plant wakes up quite quickly, grows its root system and its own body. This is how nature intended it; its wise decision should not be contradicted.

Important! Lilies planted in the fall form significantly more daughter bulbs that are better adapted for independent life.

Optimal planting schedule by region:

• Middle zone: mid-September - end of October;
• Urals: early September - first ten days of October;
• Siberia: September;
• South of Russia, Ukraine: from the first days of September to the end of November.

It is important to follow the landing order:

• They always start with candidum, which blooms in June;
• then lilies of American and Caucasian origin are planted;
• Complete the planting with oriental, trumpet, tiger, Tibetan, Asians can be planted in the summer.

When to plant lilies in open ground in the fall is determined by the air temperature - it should be around +10°C. In warmer weather, the bulb will grow; in cold weather, it will not have time to take root and will survive the winter worse.

Planting lilies in autumn

The bulbs have time to get used to the new place and get stronger before the winter cold. With the very first warm days they begin to grow, and they tolerate the return frosts of April-May without catastrophic consequences.

Important! Candidums, martagons, and some oriental hybrids are planted at the end of August (for Siberia the deadline is the middle of the month).

In the spring, lilies are planted that are not adapted to harsh winters - most oriental lilies, all American lilies, trumpet lilies and hybrids derived from them, late-flowering Asiatic lilies. The optimal period is considered to be mid-April, the determining factor is that the soil has completely thawed and warmed up moderately. In the south, garden lilies are planted earlier.

When planting in spring, the order of when to plant certain types of lilies is also observed: tiger and Tibetan lilies are planted first, terry lilies are planted last, as they are more demanding of heat.

Note! Water lilies are planted only in spring.

Also, the planting of bulbs that, for various reasons, were not planted in the fall, is postponed until spring:

• sudden early persistent cold;
• planting material was purchased at an end-of-season sale;
• The package with the ordered nodules arrived late.

This situation makes it necessary to store the bulbs. There are several rules to help preserve them until spring:

1. before storing the bulbs, inspect them, cut off damaged areas, and disinfect them;
2. carry out anti-fungal treatment with potassium permanganate, a solution of any fungicide;
3. dry the material in a cool, dark room.

Store wrapped in paper or sprinkled with sawdust. A ventilated room with moderate humidity, where the temperature is kept at 3-5°C, is suitable for storage. A small number of corms are kept in the refrigerator.

Important! Planting material requires care: it is regularly checked in order to promptly identify tubers that have begun to mold or rot, as well as those that have begun to germinate. Diseased bulbs are processed and stored, and sprouted bulbs are planted in pots.

How to plant lilies

In order for graceful flowers to reveal their beauty to the fullest, a summer resident needs to know how to plant lily bulbs correctly.

Selecting a location

The most difficult thing in growing an aristocrat is choosing the right place: the requirements of different species are not the same.

Place to plant lilies

Conditions common to all lilies:

• protection from cold winds or drafts;
• good drainage;
• no stagnation of melt or rain water.

Relation to lighting and wind

Fact! Oriental and curly hybrids feel comfortable in light shade, which helps preserve the color of the corollas. Asian and LA hybrids love the sun, but grow and bloom well in diffused light.

Protection from the wind has its own additional conditions: the place where they are planted must nevertheless be well ventilated, since the lack of ventilation between the stems leads to sad results - to diseases and pests.

When it comes to choosing a location, summer residents consider it a fair statement: it is easier to choose a lily suitable for the free space on the plot than to find where to plant an already purchased bulb.

Soil requirements

Soil requirements

Here, too, the individuality of the species is evident. The general preference is for breathable loams or sandy loams with a high humus content. Regarding the pH value, there are differences:

• candidum, martagon, Henry lily prefer slightly alkaline soil;
• long-flowered, Canadian, tiger and their hybrids prefer a slightly acidic environment;
• if the origin of the lily is unknown, they stop at a neutral reaction.

Preparing the landing site

Preliminary preparation is required even for soil ideally suited for lilies: digging 40 cm to saturate the soil with oxygen and applying fertilizers:

• compost or humus - 5-10 kg/sq. m;
• potassium sulfate - 30-50 g/sq.m. m;
• superphosphate - 60-100 g/sq.m. m.

It is possible to use ready-made complex formulations for bulbous plants or specifically for lilies, which are used according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Bulb planting depth

They usually use the standard rule for bulbous plants: the distance from the bottom to the surface of the earth is three times the size of the bulb. But there are a number of clarifications that determine how deep a particular variety needs to be deepened:

• stem-root lilies are buried 25 cm or more;
• low-growing cultivars require a depth of 10-12 cm;
• medium-sized ones need 12-15 cm of sealing;
• tall ones are planted at a depth of 15-20 cm.

The data is given for large bulbs; small planting material is planted at 2/3 of the depth recommended for large ones.

Important! On heavy soils, the planting depth is less than on light soils.

Preparing the bulbs

All the bulbs are purchased in a specialized store, purchased from neighbors in the country, our own, pre-cooked. The material is cleaned and the sections are disinfected. Remove dry scales and dead roots. Etch with potassium permanganate (5 g/1-l of water, explication time 30 minutes), Fundazol (0.2%) or Karbofos (1 tbsp/10 l of water). Dry it.

Preparing bulbs for planting

Landing technology

Immediately before planting, holes are dug. The distance between them is determined quite arbitrarily, but make sure that they are separated from each other by no less than 15-30 cm, depending on the height. If flowers are grown for cutting, the step is increased.

Step by step planting guide:

1. shorten the roots, leaving a maximum length of 10 cm;
2. Coarse river sand, washed and disinfected, is poured onto the bottom of the planting hole, and a mound is formed from it;
3. A corm is placed on the mound, the roots are straightened along the slopes;
4. pour sand to completely cover the bulb;
5. fill up the soil;
6. Water abundantly, spread mulch in a layer of 5-7 cm.

The mulch material is selected according to the type of lilies - sawdust and peat are suitable for Asian, oriental, and LA hybrids; for martagons, compost and wood ash are mixed; for others, the material is not important, the main thing is that it is organic.

Note! To prevent mice or other rodents from eating the planted bulbs in winter, they are coated with a repellent compound. The inexpensive Vishnevsky ointment is best suited for this purpose.

Features of planting daughter bulbs and bulbs

To propagate lilies, daughter bulbs are usually used, with which the adult, mother bulb grows. A number of varieties, called bulbiferous, form such bulbs (bud bulbs) in the axils of the leaves. Planting small material has a number of features.

Planting bud bulbs

The least traumatic method of propagating lilies, which does not require digging up the main bulb. Tiny baby bulbs are formed in many Asian hybrids, tubular, tiger and individual varieties.

The children finally mature towards the end of flowering of the mother plant: they are easily separated from the stem; some manage to produce small roots, less often miniature leaves.

Even if propagation of lilies is not included in the gardener’s plans, mature children are collected so that the flower beds are not clogged with unnecessary growth. If the goal is to breed this variety, then prepare for planting baby bulbs in advance:

• choose a place for a garden bed that is better shaded;
• dig up the soil, simultaneously adding a special fertilizer for lilies or a mixture of ammonium nitrate (30 g/sq. m), potassium sulfate (10 g/sq. m), superphosphate (10 g/sq. m).

Immediately after collection, ripened bulblets are kept in a weak solution of manganese for 2 hours for disinfection, then planted in grooves about 3 cm deep in increments of 5-6 cm, covered with soil and watered well. After watering, lay out a layer of organic mulch.

Bulbous lilies are frost-resistant, so young plants do not need shelter for the winter. As insurance for the schoolchildren, they rake up dry leaves and cover them with spruce branches.

Planting baby bulbs

This method of propagation involves regular digging up of the mother plant, once every 3-4 years, in order to separate the children from the main bulb. The best time for this is a month after the end of flowering, when the main bulb has recovered and become stronger. Some varieties do not need to be dug up, because... the babies form on the underground part of the stem; just rake off the soil and sift it.

Such bulbs are planted on school beds prepared in the same way as in the previous case, only the planting depth is 3-5 cm and the pitch is 10-12 cm. The process of preparing daughter bulbs is similar to preparing bud bulbs.

In the first year of flowering there will be no plants that have grown from children; full-fledged lily buds form in the second year. Experienced lily growers recommend abandoning the first flowers in favor of growing the bulb and strengthening it.

Additional Information. Baby bulbs can be sprouted at home in flower containers, or stored until spring planting in the refrigerator or on a cold closed balcony.

What is the difference between planting lilies at home?

How to plant lilies and care for them at home - the process is no more complicated than in the open ground, but just as exciting, especially since the flowering period can be adjusted - get a flowering plant by March 8 or a family date.

Having decided which variety will be grown, select a pot. The approximate ratio of plant height to container height is 4:1; an area of ​​16-18 square meters is required for the development of a large bulb. cm.

Planting in a pot

Several bulbs are planted in a large pot: if it is too crowded, the lilies will bloom more readily. In a large space, they will engage in reproduction - increasing the number of children until the excess “living space” is filled.

The instructions describe how to plant lilies in a pot:

• choose Asian, oriental, long-flowered hybrids. Their height - dwarf, medium or tall - is determined based on the capabilities of the interior;
• a bulb suitable for planting must be healthy, dense, weighing about 40 g;
• The bulb is kept for 2-3 weeks at a temperature of about 5°C - stratified;
• before planting, they are subjected to 2-hour disinfection with potassium permanganate, then placed in a growth stimulator for 12 hours;
• 5 cm of drainage is placed at the bottom of the pot - expanded clay, pebbles, crushed bricks, and 10 cm of nutritious soil mixture is poured;
• lay the bulbs bottom down, slightly pressing them into the ground;
• cover with a thick (15-20 cm) layer of substrate, water generously with warm, soft water.

Important! There should be at least 7 cm left from the surface of the ground to the edge of the pot to add soil as the lily grows and adventitious roots form.

To correctly determine when to plant potted lily bulbs, study the characteristics of the selected variety - how long it takes from germination to flowering, plus 2-3 weeks for germination.

When choosing a time for planting lilies - autumn or spring - they weigh all the pros and cons so that they grow healthy, full and long-blooming beautiful flowers, replacing each other.

How to plant lilies correctly: planting pattern and depth

For such delicate and sophisticated flowers as lilies, planting and care are of great importance. This is especially true for the most beautiful exotic varieties. It is necessary not only to determine the correct planting time, but also to choose a good place for a flower bed with lilies, plant them according to one of the schemes, maintaining the required distance between plants and the optimal depth in accordance with the characteristics of the type of lily.

Choosing a suitable place to plant lilies

Having lovingly selected the most beautiful varieties of lilies for your flower garden, and having waited for the right time to plant lilies, you suddenly realize that you have no idea at all what pattern to plant the plants in, and at what depth the lilies should be planted. If you plant flowers too deep, they will bloom late, and if you plant them too shallow, the plants may become infected with disease.

Plant flowers too deep and they will bloom late

When planning how to plant lilies so that they look harmonious in the flowerbed, be sure to take into account the size, height, shape and color of the flowers. For example, tall varieties of lilies are best planted in small groups or placed in the background of flower beds. And low-growing varieties of lilies with small flowers will go well in a flowerbed with peonies, phlox and daylilies.

A good option would be to combine roses and lilies in one bed - planting these flowers together will significantly ease your troubles with covering plants for the winter.

When choosing a suitable place for planting lilies, keep in mind that these flowers need nutritious, loose soil, free from weeds and permeable to water. Most Asiatic lilies and trumpet hybrids like open areas, but you can grow them in light shade, just not near trees - there is strong shade and dry soil. Success in growing drooping lilies, orange lilies, daurian lilies, pleasant lilies, plain lilies, long-flowered lilies, dwarf lilies and Chalcedon lilies can be achieved by planting them in a sunny location. But Japanese, golden, Carniolian, curly, two-row, calloused, beautiful, magnificent and reddish lilies prefer partial shade. Knowing how to plant lilies correctly and which area is best to choose for growing, you will definitely achieve great results!

What kind of soil do lilies need?

Before plowing, along with organic fertilizers, it is also advisable to add phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen fertilizers to the soil.

Planting lilies requires thorough preparation of the soil in advance, since in one place the lily will grow without replanting for three to five years:

• add humus, peat and sand to heavy soil, just do not overdo it with organic fertilizers, otherwise the above-ground part of the lilies will quickly grow to the detriment of the formation of bulbs, the plants will be less resistant to diseases and less winter-hardy;
• add 8 kg of humus per 1 m2 to podzolic poor soils;
• in leached chernozem soils per 1 m2 - 4 kg of humus;
• Before plowing, along with organic fertilizers, it is also advisable to add phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen fertilizers to the soil.

Keep in mind that different types of lilies require different soil acidity. Most varieties of lilies grow well in neutral soil, but umbrella, curly, bulbous, white, Tibetan, single-color lilies, as well as Regale and Martagon lilies prefer soil with a slightly alkaline reaction. The following lilies can grow on acidified soils: Dahurian, tiger, drooping, David, Wilmott, Maksimovich.

How to plant lilies correctly: at what depth, and according to what pattern

So, the place for planting lilies has been chosen, the soil has been prepared, now you need to decide at what depth to plant the lilies. Here you need to take into account not only the type of lily, but also the size of the bulb and the plant’s ability to form stem roots. Basically, bulbs are planted in the ground to a depth three times their diameter.

Basically, bulbs are planted in the ground to a depth three times their diameter.

Tall varieties with large flowering stems (Wilmott, Henry, curly) are planted deeper than indicated above, and even greater depth is required for lilies with stem roots. Planting lily bulbs with a rosette of ground leaves (terracotta, snow-white, Catesby) is done to a depth of two centimeters, with the expectation that the tops of the scales are located near the surface.

The depth of planting lilies also depends on the characteristics of the soil: it is better to plant the bulbs deeper in sandy light soil than in heavy soil. In general, deeper planting provides the bulbs with sufficient moisture in the summer, optimal temperature in the winter, and protection from frost in the spring. More baby bulbs and stem roots are formed on the long underground part.

The lily planting scheme is presented in three options:

• single-line ribbon with a distance of 5-15 cm between lily bulbs in a row and 50 cm between lines;
• two-line ribbon (for medium-sized lilies) with a distance between bulbs of 15-25 cm, 25 between lines, and 70 cm between ribbons;
• three-line ribbon (for low-growing lilies) with a distance between the bulbs of 10-15 cm, maintaining the same amount between ribbons and lines as with a two-line planting.

Let's talk briefly about how to plant lilies correctly. First of all, dig holes with a scoop according to the chosen pattern to the desired depth. Prepare protective cushions in each hole from a mixture of washed river sand and ash. Plant the bulbs on sandy cushions, carefully straightening their roots and slightly pressing the bulbs into the sand. Fill the hole with soil on top, water and mulch with peat. This completes the planting of lilies.

Planting lilies in open ground in spring - choosing a variety, preparing bulbs and soil

Lilies - regal, majestic flowers - will decorate any garden plot. It is impossible not to love lilies. No one remains indifferent when looking at these colorful, fragrant inflorescences. Despite all their beauty, they do not require much care. Planting lilies in the spring is an easy way to grow these perennial long-flowered crops, which, subject to simple planting and care rules, delight gardeners with flowering for up to 10 years.

When to plant lilies in open ground

The time for planting lilies in the ground is determined by the variety. In spring, it is good to plant bulbs of tiger, Tibetan, oriental, trumpet, and Asian hybrids. It is important to have time to plant bulbs with sprouts up to 10 cm. If the sprouts are larger, it is better to place them sideways when planting. As soon as the snow melts from the site, you can begin preparing the soil for the flower bed. In the southern regions, during dry, hot weather, planting lilies in the ground in the spring is not recommended.

This perennial is planted from late April to early May. To speed up flowering, you can sprout lily bulbs before planting. A container with damp moss, sawdust, or coconut substrate in a warm, sunny place is suitable for this. The main requirement is to protect it from drying out and waterlogging. When the weather is suitable, bulbs with strong sprouts can be planted in a flower bed.

Landing dates

Every gardener dreams of growing a beautiful, abundantly flowering perennial crop. Rooting, long and abundant flowering, healthy plant growth depend on several factors:

• compliance with planting deadlines;
• planting depth;
• compliance with the recommended interval;
• site selection;
• preparing the soil for a flower bed.

The timing of spring planting of lilies differs slightly for different regions. Planting is possible when the soil warms up. This is the end of April - beginning of May (depending on the region). Tubular, oriental hybrids are planted as soon as the snow melts from the site, tiger, Tibetan lilies - in early April, terry varieties - in April. Be sure to cover the planting site with mulch. If you are simply transplanting flowers from one place to another, do it with a lump of earth.

Advantages of April landing

Planting lilies in April has a number of advantages over autumn and summer:

• preventing overcooling of bulbs in winter;
• the ability to protect the bulbs during autumn frosts;
• the possibility of planting already sprouted flowers;
• creating favorable conditions for the development of the root system;
• fast, good plant survival;
• proper soil preparation helps the plant to actively develop;
• preserve the bulbs in optimal conditions until planting.

How to plant lilies

Before decorating a flower garden, you should prepare the soil. When digging up the soil, clods are crushed, weed roots and stones are removed. This improves soil drainage and makes it easier to control weeds in the future. They dig to the depth of a shovel, but if the soil has not been cultivated before or the area was flooded earlier, you need to remove the top layer of soil and dig deeper.

The ground for the flowerbed must be prepared, because... A lily bed requires loose, fertile soil, without nearby groundwater. When digging a site, add per 1 sq.m:

• peat – 1 bucket;
• wood ash – 100 g;
• humus – 8 kg;
• superphosphate - according to instructions.

Before planting, each hole should be moistened, but not flooded. Planting depth depends on the size of the bulb. The hole should be 2-3 times the height of the bulb. On light sandy soils, the planting depth is 3 times the length of the bulb (the height of the sprout is not taken into account); on heavy clay soils, the planting depth is 2 times the length of the bulb.

The distance between holes depends on the variety. Tall ones are planted after 20–30 cm. Low-growing ones are planted after 10–15 cm. River sand is poured in a heap at the bottom of the hole in order to protect the bulb from excess moisture. Cover with soil. Cover the top of the planting with mulch. If the height of the sprout exceeds 10–15 cm, the bulbs are laid sideways and sprinkled with sand and soil with care, because the sprouts are fragile. If the sprouts are large and it is too early to plant in open ground, use peat pots. As the weather warms up, plant flowers directly in the flowerbed.

It is possible to grow at home on a windowsill, balcony, or winter garden, provided that the planting dates for lilies are observed. You can use soil purchased in a store. Suitable soil is composed in the following proportions:

• turf soil - 3 parts;
• leaf soil - 1 part;
• humus – 1 part;
• sand - 1 part.

The third part of the selected container for the lily should be filled with a layer of drainage. Small pebbles, shards or large expanded clay are suitable for this. Some gardeners use crushed eggshells.

The pot for planting the bulb should not be large. In large tubs or flowerpots you can plant tall, large bushes, for example the Regale variety, or several short and medium-sized varieties. Pour drainage into about one-third of the bottom of the pot. Then a little prepared soil, on top of a layer of 3 cm of calcined sand. Plant a lily on the sand and cover 2/3 with soil. In this case, the pot should not be filled to the brim. It should be taken into account that in the future, as the stem grows, the bulb will need to be filled up to the neck.

Selection and storage of planting material

When purchasing in a store, carefully inspect the planting material. The main thing is that the onion is not flaccid, but dense, elastic, and fleshy. Choose large, healthy bulbs with a hard neck, without damaged tissue, cracks, or dry scales. Do not buy dry, wrinkled, light, soft, porous onions. The sprout, if there is one, should be short, powerful, thick, but no more than 10 cm.

Carefully inspect the bulbs, remove dry or rotten scales. Then disinfect with a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes. Dry and place in vermiculite. In order to avoid deformation of the shoot, the packaging must be loose. Planting material should be stored in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf in paper bags or plastic bags with holes.

What soil is suitable for lilies

New plantings are carried out in an area where lilies have not been grown before. For a lily bed, choose a dry, sunny area. The soil must be loose, nutritious, permeable, without stagnant water - the roots rot from dampness, and the flowers grow poorly and may die. Lilies normally tolerate a little shade, but in dense shade they grow poorly and produce few buds. A good neighborhood in a flower garden with roses - they have a beneficial effect on each other.

If the designated area has heavy clay soil, you need to add peat, sand, and compost 20 days before planting. Different varieties of lilies prefer different types of soil. Most varieties prefer neutral soils. Daurian and Tiger lilies are well suited to slightly acidic soil. Single-colored, white, bulbous and curly varieties love slightly alkaline soil.

Fertilizer application

After planting, the entire period of growth, development, and flowering, the lily needs feeding. For this, complex fertilizers designed for bulbous flowers are best suited. Fertilizing should be done according to the instructions, taking into account that during the growth period the flower needs nitrogen, and during the flowering period – phosphorus and potassium. During the entire growing season, lilies need three main feedings:

• when shoots appear - with urea and complex fertilizers;
• when setting buds - potassium sulfate and superphosphate;
• during the flowering period - with a solution of mullein and nitroammophoska.

Mineral

Fertilizers applied to the soil improve its composition. They provide the plant with nutrients for full growth and development. Mineral fertilizers contain many microelements that organic fertilizers cannot provide to flowers. Fertilizer rates for specific purposes:

• for abundant, long flowering, development of the root system, strengthening the immune system, add to the soil when digging per 10 square meters: 200 g of urea, 0.5 kg of potassium sulfate, 1 kg of superphosphate;
• for general strengthening of plants, 1.5 kg of azofoska is added to the soil per 10 sq.m;
• during active flowering, a solution of nitroammophoska 50 g per 1 bucket of water is poured under the roots to feed;
• To activate plant growth and set buds, add 1 tbsp ammonium nitrate to the soil. l. per 1 sq.m;
• To protect against fungal infections, add 1 tbsp of ammonium nitrate to the soil. l. per 1 sq.m. once in the spring for the whole season.

Organic

When digging, adding rotted humus makes the soil looser, facilitates access of air and moisture to the roots, saturates it with nutrients, and promotes the proliferation of worms. 8 kg of humus is added per 1 m². For heavy soils, add 1.5 buckets of peat and sand. Wood ash protects plants from mold and disease. During the summer, fertilization with ash can be carried out 5-7 times at the rate of 100 g per 1 sq.m. The best fertilizer for active growth and flowering is diluted slurry at a rate of 1:10. It should be applied with the onset of warm spring days once a month.

Watering mode

The need for water is the most important for plants - they die from a lack of moisture and from its excess. Poor, irregular watering leads to improper formation of flowers, deformation, and death of the plant. Overmoistening leads to fungal and bacterial diseases, rotting of the bulb and roots. Surface watering is harmful to plants because... the roots begin to stretch upward towards the moisture and dry out on the surface of the soil. Follow the watering recommendations:

1. A newly planted and blooming lily should be watered generously. The rest of the time, watering should be regular but moderate.
2. Watering should be done in the evening.
3. Water should not get on the leaves of plants, as this will cause burns.
4. The most suitable watering for lilies is drip irrigation.

Protection from pests and diseases

To grow and propagate lilies, care must be taken to disinfect planting material and soil. Fungal and viral diseases affect the trunks and leaves of lilies, deteriorate the appearance of flowers and destroy the flower completely. The spread of rot is promoted by high humidity and abundant watering. To grow healthy and beautiful flowers, the following treatment of the bulbs is carried out before planting to protect against infections:

1. rinse well;
2. place in a solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes. (5-10 g per 1 bucket of water);
3. soak in a fungicide solution for 30 minutes;
4. remove damaged scales;
5. rinse in several waters;
6. treat with 1 tbsp karbofos solution. l. for 1 bucket of water.

Protection will improve if the plantings are insulated for a while. To do this, use mini-greenhouses, plastic bottles, and covering material. If planting material is not sufficiently processed during flowering, flowers can be susceptible to a number of diseases. To prevent diseases, the soil is spilled with Bordeaux mixture in May. In July, treatment is carried out 2 times. The plant is sprayed several times during the season. If the treatment does not help and the plant does not get better, it is dug up and destroyed so that others do not get sick.

Interspecific lily hybrid - Algarve variety

Lily is a decoration of many gardens and is very popular among gardeners all over the world. Everyone dreams of growing lilies in their garden; planting and caring for them is not difficult and accessible, but requires preliminary preparation.

Selecting the variety and bulbs of lilies

When choosing planting material, you need to make sure that it will match the chosen variety, is healthy, and suitable for growing in your region. In the matter of varietal compliance of lilies, one can only rely on the conscientiousness of the seller, but one can determine the species and quality of the bulbs by their appearance.

The best varieties of lilies for the garden

The lily genus is represented by more than 80 wild and cultivated species around the world. Their varietal diversity is even more impressive - about 8,000 varieties and hybrids, each of which is unique in its own way.

Throughout Russia, including in Siberia and the Urals, summer residents practice growing Asian hybrid lilies. These varieties are frost-resistant, grow quickly and do not require care. They bloom very profusely in June - July. A peculiarity of Asians is the lack of scent in flowers. The most famous varieties of this group are Marlene, Top Gunn, Lollipop, Yeti, Flore Pleno, Daira, Sorbet.

Oriental lily hybrids are more capricious when growing. They do not tolerate low temperatures well, which is why they are preferred to be grown in the southern part of Russia and in greenhouses in the Moscow region. They are distinguished by fragrant flowers of extraordinary beauty, up to 30 cm in diameter. The following varieties are classified as Oriental: Casablanca, Barbados, Cassandra, Mona Lisa, Double Surprise, Magic Star.

The Kudrevataya lily (Martagon) is famous for its unpretentiousness when growing. Martagon hybrids are widespread in the northern regions of our country, especially varieties such as Beyhouse, Markhan, Khaysona, Gay Light. At the base, the leaves of this type of lily are collected in a whorl, and the tall peduncle is strewn with many turban-shaped flowers.

The right variety is the key to easy care

That is why summer residents prefer tubular varieties. They are not affected by diseases and are unpretentious, and long, up to 1.5 m, flower stalks with many large flowers of various colors will become an exquisite decoration for your flowerbed.

Determining the type of lily by bulb

Experienced gardeners know that each group of lily hybrids has its own requirements for the composition of the soil, the illumination of the site, and has its own frost resistance threshold. Thus, growing lilies in open ground of the Asian group and LA hybrids is possible everywhere, but oriental varieties do not tolerate wintering well; slightly alkaline soil is suitable for growing trumpet lilies, and slightly acidic soil is suitable for OT hybrids.

The appearance of the bulb will help determine which group the lily belongs to:

• White bulbs, sometimes with yellow and pink splashes, are characteristic of the Asian and Longiflorum (LA) groups;
• Oriental and Oriental (OT) lilies have large bulbs of yellow, less often purple color;
• Trumpet lily bulbs are purple in color.

Choosing a healthy onion

When purchasing lilies, it is important to correctly determine the quality of planting material, since bulbs infected with fungal diseases will cause a lot of trouble and can infect flowers already growing in your flower beds.

• The bulb should be elastic, juicy, without damage or signs of rotting.
• Planting lilies whose bulbs have dried out and have no sprouts or root growth will not bring the desired result. They need very careful care, and it is unknown when flowering will occur.
• The size of living roots should be at least 5 cm.
• Bulbs with a diameter of less than 3 cm will begin to bloom only two years after planting. The larger the bulb, the more magnificent the color of the lily will be. The optimal bulb diameter is 12-16 cm.

When to buy bulbs

Lilies are planted both in autumn and spring. When choosing lilies that are planned to be planted in the fall, it is important to consider that they need to be planted as early as possible, leaving enough time before frost for rooting. Lilies, the cultivation and care of which were correct this year, begin to be dug up from the end of August. It is advisable to purchase bulbs during this period.

Be careful when buying bulbs!

Look out for sprouting bulbs that go on sale in the fall. Most likely, they were not planted in the ground in the spring, and they missed one life cycle. Once in the ground, they will immediately begin to grow and freeze out at the first sub-zero temperatures on the ground.

Buying lily seedlings

It is possible to plant lilies in the summer, especially when it comes to Asian hybrids and Candidum. They are sold as seedlings with a clod of soil, often flowering. In this case, choosing a flower is much simpler - all its beauty is visible to the eye, and there is no chance of receiving off-grade planting material.

You should not buy lily seedlings after forcing them!

Often seedlings are sold in June and July after forcing. In this case, the bulbs went through their life cycle under artificial conditions. In open ground they will get sick and will only be able to bloom after a few years. The cost of such planting material is not high, which is a temptation for many novice gardeners.

Preparing soil and bulbs, rules for planting lilies

Proper site selection, soil preparation and planting of bulbs play a decisive role in the successful cultivation of lilies. If you approach these stages responsibly, lilies will grow well and delight you with flowering in the garden for many years.

Site selection

The choice of a site for cultivation largely depends on the type of lilies and their requirements for certain conditions:

• Asiatic, oriental and trumpet lilies prefer sunny areas without cross winds. Partial shading will not affect the growth and flowering of these lilies. If the light in the garden is not the same throughout the day, it is preferable to plant lilies on the east side so that they receive as much sunlight as possible before lunch.
• Curly lilies (Martagon) grow and bloom well in partial shade, especially when the leaf rosette is completely shaded and the flower stalks are in the sun.

To shade the bulbs during the summer, it is recommended to plant lilies near low-growing perennials (hosta, daylilies, nivaria). In this combination, the blooming lilies will stand out and look bright, and the bulb will remain in the shade, protected from overheating and drying out. In shady areas under trees and dense shrubs, lilies stretch out, their stems are thin, and flowering is sparse and late. Such plants often get sick and the bulbs die.

The best place to plant lilies

Preference for planting lilies should be given to elevated or flat areas. In the lowlands, the bulbs can get wet, be affected by fungal diseases, and in winter there is a high probability of them freezing.

Soil preparation

Lilies feel comfortable on garden or garden soil that is well drained and without high groundwater. Peat or humus is added to sandy soils, and dense clay soil is lightened by adding coarse river sand.

Lilies grow best when planted and cared for in soil with moderate acidity.

• The moderately alkaline soil reaction (pH 7.0-8.0) is favorable for growing Snow White and Curly lilies.
• Asiatic and Oriental lilies grow well in soils with neutral acidity.
• The Tubular Lily also has preferences - its varieties with pink flowers bloom brighter and more beautifully in slightly acidic soils (pH 6.0-6.5).

How to regulate acidity

To lower the pH level, add lime, chalk, ash or dolomite flour. Heather soil, peat, acetic acid or colloidal sulfur will help increase acidity.

The soil for lilies is prepared in advance: in the fall - for spring planting, in the summer - for autumn planting. They dig it up to a depth of 35-40 cm, turning over the layers. Before digging, fertilizers are added to the soil per m²:

• 1 bucket of humus, rotted manure or compost. Adding fresh manure is not permissible, since lilies in such soil will rot;
• 1-2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, urea, nitroammophoska;
• 1 liter of wood ash solution, except for those areas where it is planned to plant Martagon and Candidum lilies.

Adding this amount of fertilizer to the soil will provide the supply of nutrients your lilies need for good growth and abundant flowering.

Preparing bulbs for planting

Pre-planting preparation of lilies is necessary to minimize damage to the bulbs by fungal diseases. Dried bulbs are pre-soaked in water at room temperature for several hours.

Pickle the bulbs for 15-20 minutes in one of the solutions:

• pink solution of potassium permanganate;
• 2 g of karbofos per 1 liter of water;
• 2 g of foundationazole per 1 liter of water;
• special preparation for treating bulbous plants before planting Maxim or Vitaros.

After processing, the bulbs are dried in the shade.

Planting lilies in the ground

Early autumn planting of lilies in open ground is considered the most successful. Planted during this period, they will have time to take root well before frost and are guaranteed to bloom next year. The exceptions are Oriental lilies and OT hybrids. They bloom late; by September the bulbs are not yet ready for planting, and when planted in October they will not have time to take root. Therefore, they are planted in the spring, when the soil warms up well.

The depth of planting the bulbs depends on several factors:

• Bulb size. The larger the bulb, the deeper it needs to be planted. The minimum depth is 10 cm. Lily bulbs should not be buried deeper than 25 cm in the ground either. Baby bulbs are sown in furrows 5-7 cm deep.
• Soil composition. On heavy soils, bulbs should not be deepened too much.
• Variety of lilies. For short trees, the planting depth is about 10 cm, for tall trees - 15-20 cm.

A distance of 20 cm is maintained between the bulbs. Lilies of the Asian group grow quickly, so when planting, a distance of at least 30 cm is maintained between them. Pictures of multi-colored lilies, planted with 5-7 bulbs in one wide hole, look beautiful.

Planting lilies in autumn and spring is carried out in pre-prepared holes, on a “cushion” of 5-7 cm of river sand. The roots are evenly distributed, after which the bulbs are covered with soil and watered abundantly.

Spring planting material can often be found with a crooked sprout. There is nothing terrible about this, but you need to place the onion in the hole so that the top of the sprout is vertically above the ground. The bulb itself will take the desired position as the lily grows.

If it is necessary to obtain a large number of children to propagate lilies, the bulbs are planted “on the side”. In this position, a nest of bulbs forms faster, and the number of daughter bulbs will increase.

It is advisable to mulch lily plantings, but separate mulch is used for each varietal group:

• Asian, Oriental, LA and OT hybrids are mulched with lower peat, sawdust, and pine needles;
• Plantings of Snow-White, Tubular and Curly varieties are mulched with leaf humus, mown grass, and ash is also added.

Features of summer planting

Asian and LA hybrids can be planted in summer. This also applies to Snow White lilies, whose bulbs are dormant in July-August. Lilies are planted in July using the transshipment method.

The bulbs must be dug up with a clod of earth. Prepare a volumetric well (50x50x50 cm) in advance, into which 1 tbsp is added. a spoonful of superphosphate and mix it with the soil. The bottom of the hole is covered with river sand in a layer of 5-7 cm, after which a seedling is placed and sprinkled with earth mixed with humus or rotted manure. The seedling is watered abundantly and, if it is tall, tied to a support. Existing buds and flowers are cut off so that the lily spends all its energy on rooting.

Planting lilies in summer video

Caring for lilies in summer

Growing lilies in the country is not burdensome. Caring for them comes down to regular moistening and loosening of the soil, as well as periodic application of fertilizing.

Watering

The soil under lilies should be moderately moist throughout the growing season. Stagnation of moisture will lead to rotting of the bulbs, while short-term drought is tolerated by lilies without pain. Lack of watering for a long time will lead to withering of the lower leaves and poor development of the peduncle.

The basic rule for watering lilies

Lilies experience the greatest need for moisture in the spring, during active growth. In summer, they are watered less abundantly, moistening the soil to the depth of the bulbs. Surface watering will not bring any benefit. In this case, the plant will feel thirsty, and a crust will form on the soil surface that does not allow air to pass through well.

It is advisable to water the lilies before lunch at the root, avoiding water getting on the leaves. During flowering, the amount of watering can be reduced. It is enough to shed the soil 25-30 cm deep, once every two weeks.

Loosening the soil

Garden lilies, cared for and planted correctly, require constant access of air to the root system. Loosen the soil very carefully, trying not to damage the additional stem roots located near the surface of the soil. At the same time, weeds are removed.

During heavy rains, sand is washed out of the soil, it becomes clogged and hardens. In this case, river sand is poured under the lilies, which during loosening mixes with the soil and makes it lighter.

Mulching the plantings with straw or wood shavings will help make caring for lilies easier in the summer. You can also maintain constant soil moisture and protect the bulbs from overheating by planting low-growing perennials near the lilies.

Top dressing in summer

If you have an automatic watering system set up, and the lilies are planted in prepared soil, and virtually no care is required for the lilies, the plants need a one-time application of fertilizer in the first year.

Complex fertilizer is added to the flowers during budding, using ammophoska and nitroammophoska in equal quantities, at the rate of 30g/m². Dissolving them in 10 liters of water.

Caring for lilies after flowering

Many gardeners have a question about how to care for lilies after flowering. It is during this period that the plant is most susceptible to disease, since all its strength is spent on the peduncles.

Watering

After flowering, the watering rate is increased, trying to ensure constant soil moisture at a depth of 25-30 cm. From the second half of August, watering is completely stopped, since for the bulbs to winter successfully, the soil must be dry.

This applies most of all to Eastern and OT hybrids. After flowering, the soil is thoroughly dried. In September, flower beds should be covered with plastic film so that it remains dry during prolonged autumn rains and thaws in winter. Remove the cover in early spring after the snow melts, during the application of fertilizers.

Feeding

After flowering, lilies need phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Superphosphate and potassium sulfate are used as top dressing at 10 and 30 g per m², respectively. Dilute them in 10 liters of water and water the lilies with this solution at the root, after preliminary watering with clean water.

Lily bulbs do not have a protective shell, like tulips and other bulbous plants, so organic fertilizers must be applied very carefully. Nutrient solutions based on manure or slurry are prepared in low concentration: 0.3-0.5 liters per bucket of water. Oversaturation of the soil with organic fertilizers will lead to rotting and subsequent death of the bulb.

For wintering lily bulbs, the same fertilizing as in summer is done in the spring when the snow melts. Fertilizers are applied in dry form onto a crust of melted ice and gradually reach the roots of the bulb, stimulating its awakening, growth and development.

Trimming

Withered flowers are torn off from the peduncle. You cannot delay this, since seed boxes will begin to form on the peduncle, and the plant will spend all its energy on their development.

Caring for lilies after flowering includes trimming the stem. It is carried out only after the leaves and peduncle have completely dried out, since they are a conductor of nutrients to the bulbs. In September, the stem is cut into a stump 10-15 cm long. In late autumn, in October or November, this stump is carefully pulled out so that cold air does not enter the bulb through it.

You need to cut blooming lilies for bouquets correctly!

The peduncle is cut at an acute angle so that the remaining leaves completely or partially cover it. An oblique cut is necessary to allow water to drain during rain. If the cut is made even, a large amount of moisture will flow through it to the bulb, which will cause it to rot.

Protecting lilies from diseases and pests

Lilies can be affected by pests, the most dangerous of which are:

• Onion root mite. Prevention and protection - planting healthy material; dressing the bulbs before planting with karbofos (5 g/1 l of water for 30 minutes); heat treatment of the bulbs in water at 50 ºС for 5 minutes.
• Onion leaf beetle. Control - timely removal of weeds; collecting beetles; treatment with chlorophos (10 g per bucket of water)
• Purple owl. Control - timely removal of weeds and plant debris.

Often lilies, planted and cared for in violation of the rules of agricultural technology, are affected by fungal diseases such as fusarium, rust, and gray rot. In this case, the bulbs begin to rot, and the leaves become stained and wither. If the development of fungi is left to chance, the plant will die.

To combat fungal diseases, the bulbs are treated with fungicides before planting: Fundazol, Topsin, Euporen, Bavistin. The same preparations are sprayed on plants during the growing season if the first signs of disease appear.

Viral diseases of lilies are much less common, but there are currently no effective means to combat them. Infected plants are removed and destroyed off-site.

Caring for lilies after flowering video

Features of caring for lilies in Siberia and the Urals

Today, lilies are successfully grown in Siberia and beyond the Urals. Asian and LA hybrids, Martagon lilies and tubular hybrids are cultivated there. Some varieties of OT hybrids and oriental lilies are able to winter in these regions under cover. Planting and care in the Urals and Siberia differ little from growing lilies in regions with a warm climate.

A special feature of caring for lilies in Siberia and the Urals is covering them for the winter. The flowerbeds are insulated with humus, a layer of at least 7 cm, or fallen leaves - about 20 cm. Oriental lilies and OT hybrids are additionally covered with plastic film or agrofibre so that the soil remains dry in winter. Curly lilies calmly endure winters in Siberia without shelter.

The cover of lilies is removed immediately after the snow melts so that the sprouts do not appear early and freeze out during late frosts. If the lilies have sprouted and the threat of frost has not passed, they are covered with spruce branches or straw.

Transplanting and dividing bulbs

In order for a lily, which does not require special skills to be planted and cared for in open ground, to develop and bloom well, its bulbs must be regularly transplanted to a new location. Otherwise, their stems become sluggish and the flowers become smaller. The frequency of necessary transplantation depends on the type of lilies being grown:

• Curly and American lilies can be grown for up to 15 years without replanting.
• Oriental and Long-flowered lilies, OT and La hybrids are replanted every 3-5 years.
• Asiatic and Trumpet lilies can be replanted every year as they grow vigorously.

Transplantation in autumn

The optimal time to transplant a lily, the care of which was organized according to all the rules, is early autumn. Bulbs are dug up in August or early September, a month and a half after flowering. By this time, they will have accumulated a sufficient amount of nutrients and will quickly take root in a new place. When planting in late autumn, there is a high probability that the bulbs will not have time to take root and will die in the frozen ground.

The children are separated from the bulbs dug up for transplantation. Often they fall off on their own, but if the daughter bulbs are tightly packed in the nest, they are cut off with a clean knife, making sure to preserve part of the bottom on each bulb. Dividing the bulbs is the easiest and most reliable way to propagate lilies, which preserves all the maternal qualities of the variety.

Dry scales with signs of rotting are removed from the bulbs, and roots that are too long are cut off. They are treated with antifungal drugs: 1% solution of potassium permanganate, 2% iodine, 1% iron sulfate, foundationazole. Then dry in a shaded, well-ventilated place.

It is advisable to plant lilies in a new place within a week after digging, so that the bulbs do not dry out. Small daughter bulbs are planted separately for growing to a depth of 5-7 cm and after a year or two they are replanted in a permanent place.

Spring transplant

Oriental and OT hybrids of lilies are replanted in the spring, since they bloom only by the end of August. Their bulbs are dug up in late autumn, dried and stored in a cool place. Place them in plastic bags or plastic containers with ventilation holes and sprinkle them with damp sawdust or moss to protect them from drying out. Bulbs are planted in a permanent location when the threat of return frosts has passed.

Spring replanting is also acceptable when growing other types of lilies, before the appearance or at the very beginning of the development of sprouts. It is important to take into account that when transplanting in spring, lilies develop rapidly and the appearance of early shoots can lead to their death due to late frosts.

Transplanting lilies in summer

Snow White lilies, whose vegetation cycle has its own characteristics, need summer replanting. They enter the resting phase in July-August, and by September they begin to form a new rosette. When replanting, there is no need to cut off the stem, but it is advisable to shorten the long roots to 7-10 cm. After completing the procedure, lilies should be watered generously, stimulating the growth of new roots.

Dividing and planting lilies in July is also possible when growing Asiatic lilies. The dug nests are divided into separate stems with a bulb and immediately planted in a new place. In this case, the buds and existing flowers are cut off.

Bottom line

Even a novice florist can grow lilies in the country, provided that he follows the rules for caring for them. It is important to remember that depending on the species, lilies need different conditions, the observance of which will guarantee abundant and colorful flowering.

Lilies are flowers that do not leave anyone indifferent to their beauty and aroma. They have a variety of colors - from rich to pale tones. They bloom in June and often bloom until the end of September. Lilies grown in Russia are imported mainly from abroad, often from Holland. The most popular are Asian varieties, which take root well in regions with cold climates. How to grow lilies on a summer cottage? We invite you to find out the opinion of experienced flower growers.

Lilies in a summer cottage

Lily: choice of variety and planting time

Before you start growing lilies, you need to choose suitable and favorite varieties, which are divided into nine groups. Each has its own individual characteristics. Flower varieties are divided according to flowering time (early, late, mid-late), and stem height (high, low, medium). Also, the degree of growth matters. With a high reproduction rate, you will often have to divide the nests and plant the bulbs. In addition, different varieties are susceptible to different diseases. It is better to plant those species that are most susceptible to damage in a separate area, and try to propagate them by seeds. Plants grown in this way are more resistant to late blight and have good immunity. According to all the nuances, the location of lilies in the flowerbed is of no small importance. I advise experienced gardeners to take into account the color combination of plants in the flower garden.

Beginning flower growers often believe that growing lilies is a difficult process and not everyone can do it. But, with the necessary care, you can enjoy their flowering and aroma yourself and delight your guests. It is recommended to plant lilies in the fall. Most often, they are planted in September, but in some regions, with a warmer climate, this can be done until mid-October, the main thing is that the bulb has time to take root.

Bulbs planted in the fall will have time to adapt and prepare for wintering in a new place. Lilies planted at this time bloom earlier and bloom more abundantly than those planted in the spring.

How to buy good lily tubers?

• healthy bulbs have an intact bottom and a dense structure, without any spots;
• if there are roots, they should not be dry or rotten.

When using your own planting material, before planting you need to sort it out and discard diseased and rotten specimens. If there are a small number of dry roots, they need to be trimmed, as well as any healthy roots that are too long.

Planting lilies

A healthy tuber should be fresh, not have long (more than 10 cm) green sprouts, dry roots and scales. If, after purchasing, it is not possible to immediately plant the plants, then they are stored in a plastic bag in which holes are made for ventilation. In the bag there is planting material, you need to cover it with wet peat, sawdust, sphagnum.

To prevent diseases and protect against pests, it is recommended to treat the bulbs in karbofos (5 ml of product per liter of water is enough) or manganese solution (5 g of powder per 10 liters of water). If the tubers are small (up to 10cm), then they may not produce flowers in the first season. In addition to the bulbs, you can disinfect the area prepared for planting. To do this, water the flowerbed with a formaldehyde solution (1%), at the rate of one bucket per square meter. After this, the soil should be dug up and covered with film or tarpaulin for 5-8 days. This method will help destroy the fungus in the ground, as well as adult individuals and larvae of pests (mole crickets, May beetles, wireworms).

Rules for planting lilies

Before planting flowers, it is necessary to determine the area for their cultivation. Varieties with large inflorescences look good in a separate flower bed, while small ones are recommended to be combined with other flowers and plants (roses, phlox, peonies). The illumination of the area is also important. There are varieties that like partial shade, while others require full sun. Lilies grow well in loose, nutritious soils. At the same time, groundwater should not be near the surface, otherwise the tubers will rot in the ground. Before planting tubers, you need to dig up the entire area where you plan to grow flowers.

In order to plant lilies correctly, you must:

1. In the chosen place, dig a hole with a depth of 13 to 20 cm and a diameter of up to 4 cm. The specific size depends on the size of the tuber and the quality of the soil. The standard depth is made so that it is equal to triple the height of the bulb. Small bulbs should not be deeply buried, and if the soil is heavy, then planting should also not be deep. When planting tall hybrid varieties, it is recommended to double the depth. If the depth is insufficient, there is a risk of disease.
2. A drainage layer (expanded clay, small pebbles) is poured onto the bottom of the holes, and a small amount of sand mixed with ash is placed on top, and the bulbs are laid, carefully straightening the roots.
3. After this, the planting material is covered with earth and lightly compacted.
4. Next to the bulb, you can make a depression the size of your finger and put granular fertilizer into it. Sprinkle all this with wood ash or peat.

Watering is carried out if the weather is dry and the soil is not wet. If the soil is damp, there is no need to water. Do not apply too much organic fertilizer, such as manure. Their excess will lead to abundant growth of green mass and at the same time small inflorescences.

Lilies of such varieties as “Eastern”, “Tiger”, “Asian”, “Henry” grow well in slightly acidic soils. The variety “Umbrella” and similar ones prefer slightly acidic soil. If the plants are planted in an area where there is stagnation of water in spring, and it is not possible to change the location, then when planting, a larger drainage layer should be laid on the bottom of the holes. If the soil is poor, it is useful to add humus or compost, such as “Pixa”, “Bogatyr”. When planting flowers in a sunny area, without the slightest shade, you need to mulch, for example with sawdust, and plant other flowers nearby - chamomile, flax, bells, which will help keep the soil moist.

At the end of autumn, the planted plants need to be prepared for wintering. If winters are frosty, it is better to cover the plantings. To do this, you can use peat, fallen leaves or any non-woven material. Do not use straw or hay, as rodents may infest and damage the bulbs.

Even in warm regions, if frosts have already set in and there is not enough snow (less than 10 cm layer), then it is recommended to cover the plantings with a layer of pine needles, peat, or even fallen leaves. But it is important to remove the mulch layer as the snow begins to melt. If you do this too late, the sprouts, due to the lack of light, the penetration of which was prevented by the mulch, will be pale and weak. You should not use film to cover your plantings, as it provokes a greenhouse effect, which is not beneficial for the plants.

How to properly plant lilies and care for them.

Lilies are different from each other. Oriental lilies require special attention. In September they need to be protected from rain, and then from frost. The rest of the Asian lilies and hybrids do not require shelter for the winter.

Let's start planting lilies , when the soil warms up and becomes suitable for planting, in the Moscow region this is the last ten days of April - the beginning of May.

The main thing when buying planting material for garden lilies- absence of spots and rot on the bulbs - sure signs of disease. The roots of the bulbs should not be dried. When purchasing in the spring, I try to choose lily bulbs with slightly hatched sprouts for growing. Before planting, I store the bulbs in the refrigerator, on the lowest shelf. When one of the bulbs suddenly decides that it’s time and begins to grow with all its might, you have to plant it in a flower pot, and after frost, transfer it to open ground.

Before planting, the bulbs are washed in running water. and pickled for 20-30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 10 liters of water) or for 30-40 minutes in a solution of the drug foundationazol to prevent fungal diseases of lily bulbs.

Young shoots of garden lilies are afraid of the cold, and therefore, if I planted them in the spring, then I cover them before frost. For this I use three-liter plastic bottles with a cut off bottom - the shoots feel quite comfortable in them.

I plant lilies every three years . I treat the planting material with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. I prepare holes, it is preferable to plant in sunny places, maybe a little thickened, I put pebbles on the bottom so that excess water does not stagnate and the bulbs do not rot. I cover the pebbles with soil mixed with pine needles, lilies like this kind of soil. The bulbs do not get sick and grow large. I dug holes 10 cm deep. I specially planted them a little deeper to protect them from return frosts in the spring. Without cutting the roots of the bulbs, I planted them in the holes. After planting, I covered the holes with peat and watered them. In the summer I watered my lilies regularly, and only after flowering did I reduce the watering

Places where lilies are planted should not be flooded with water in spring and autumn.

Lilies should be planted so that the garden paths are located on the south side - then the flowers will look in their direction.

The main planting of lilies is early autumn. In the first ten days of August, they begin to dig up, divide and replant four- and five-year-old lilies. This is due to the weakening of their flowering due to soil depletion and lack of development area for the multiplied bulbs. Sometimes lilies are replanted more often - once every 2-3 years. More frequent digging of lilies is usually due to the fact that they suffer from a pest - thrips, which eats the scales of the bulbs. In addition, in case of severe damage to lilies by gray rot, it is advisable to change the planting site.

After the end of flowering of the lily, 1-1.5 months must pass before it is transplanted for the bulb to gain strength - to become large, dense, and elastic. This process is influenced by all factors: heat, moisture, and nutrition.

I dig up lily bulbs with a garden fork. , being careful not to damage the roots. I shake off the soil from them and carefully examine them. Scales with rusty and brown spots need to be removed from the bulbs. After digging, such bulbs are washed under the tap or in two waters, and then kept for 20 minutes in a solution of karbofos (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

If the bulbs are clean and with roots, then they are only pickled for 20-30 minutes in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate.

After washing and dressing, I dry the lily bulbs in the shade, cut the roots to 5 - 10 cm, and then plant them .

The depth of planting lily bulbs depends on their type, size and mechanical composition of the soil. Typically, the bulb is planted to a depth three times its diameter. The only exceptions are a few types of lilies.

On light sandy soils, lily bulbs are planted deeper than on heavy soils. As a rule, low-growing lilies are planted to a depth of 10-12 cm (large bulbs) and 7-8 cm (small ones); medium-sized, respectively, 12-15 and 8-10 cm; tall - 15-20 and 10-12 cm (depth is indicated to the bottom of the bulb).

The distance between lily bulbs when planting depends on the height and power of the plants. I plant large lilies every 20-25 cm, short ones - at a distance of 10-15 cm from one another. When planting lilies, make grooves or holes 10 cm deeper than required for planting (since lilies are usually planted with roots). But some annual lilies may not have roots, which may be due to dry soil.

When planting a bulb, I pour a mound of washed river sand at the bottom of the planting hole, place the lily bulb on it, carefully straighten the existing roots, and then fill the hole with the plant with earth.

You also need to cut off lifeless roots and shorten too long living ones.

Lilies do not tolerate manure, even when applied before winter during spring planting. On heavy soils, sand is added to the bottom of the hole, the roots are carefully spread to the sides and covered with fine soil. After planting, the soil is mulched with peat, rotted compost, and rotted sawdust. Mulching helps retain moisture in the soil, provides insulation during autumn planting, and provides additional nutrition to plants in the spring.

When choosing a place to plant lilies, you need to take into account that they do not tolerate stagnant water. Varieties of white and light colors require well-lit and protected from light places, while brightly and darkly colored varieties tolerate partial shade well.

Caring for lilies consists of regular weeding, loosening the soil, fertilizing and watering. It is very important to maintain optimal soil water regime. Avoid excessive watering and too thick plantings.

When watering lilies, you need to ensure that drops of water do not fall on the leaves of the plant (which can cause burns and the development of diseases) - try to direct the stream of water under the root of the plant.

Water lilies at the root and only in the morning or afternoon. They loosen the soil around the lilies very carefully, and mulching with various materials, including mown grass, is used to retain moisture in the soil. Getting water on the leaves is especially dangerous in the morning, because drops of water can become lenses that collect light and cause a burn. This can lead to the development of a fungal disease called botrytis.

In hot weather, waterlogging provokes the development of fungal diseases, including fusarium (onion rot) and bacterial (wet) rot.

In cool weather, excess moisture promotes the development of brown spot. . The lily beetle and its larvae, which eat leaves and buds, are very dangerous for lilies. The beetle is red-orange in color, up to 1 cm long. It is clearly visible on plants, so it can be collected by hand.

If the lily plantings are large and there are too many beetles and larvae, you will have to spray them with special preparations. Unfortunately, spraying blooming lilies reduces their decorative qualities: stains remain on the leaves and buds, and cut flowers acquire an unpleasant odor.

Sometimes the buds are damaged by the lily fly, laying eggs in them. Young plants are often affected by aphids. Bulbs in the soil are damaged by mole crickets, thrips, wireworms, and May beetle larvae. Fighting these insects is difficult, but necessary. We recommend the following drugs: “Medvetox”, “Provotox”, “Pochin”, “Zemlin”, “Grom”, “Grom-2”, “Mukhoed”, “Grizzly”.

When cutting flowers, keep as many leaves on the stem as possible. Removing leaves (1/3 or more) leads to worse flowering or no flowering next year.

To prevent mice from bothering the lilies, you can plant colchicum or daffodils, or real snowdrops, around their beds.

In the spring, before the lily shoots appear, I add nitrogen fertilizers to the soil, for example, ammonium nitrate (1 tablespoon per 1 m2). Or I feed the lily plantings with organic and mineral fertilizers: a solution of fermented mullein (in no case should fresh mullein be used to feed lilies) in a ratio (1:10), a solution or granules of nitroammophoska or ammonium nitrate (40-50 g per 10 liters of water or per 1 m2).

Lilies do not tolerate fresh manure. It reduces the winter hardiness of the plant and weakens flowering. Although manure causes vigorous growth of the above-ground part, the lily bulb suffers from it and may grow unhealthy.

Good results are achieved by adding wood ash (100 g/m2). You can add ash several times a season. Thanks to this, lily flowers become larger, more intensely colored and more resistant to disease.

Once again about feeding:

In order for lilies to bloom well, they are fed three times during the season. The first feeding is needed in the spring when the stems begin to grow: 30 g of ammonium nitrate per 10 liters of water per 1 square meter. m. The second - complete mineral fertilizer during the budding period: 30 - 50 g of nitrophoska per 10 liters of water per 1 sq. m. m. After flowering, for better ripening of the bulbs, a third feeding is carried out: 30 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of superphosphate per 10 liters of water per 1 sq. m. m.

Lilies need disease prevention. To do this, plants need to be sprayed with one percent Bordeaux mixture several times a year, preferably at the beginning or end of July.

As soon as lily sprouts appear, it is recommended to spill the soil with Bordeaux mixture

When the lilies have buds, repeat feeding with ammonium nitrate. The vegetative part of the plants is treated against pests and diseases, since healthy shoots and leaves determine full flowering next year. For the third time (in July, no later), double superphosphate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) and potassium magnesia (1.5 tablespoons per 10 liters) are added under the lilies.

Even if the lilies are severely damaged by gray rot, they still feed the plants. The bulbs need food - after all, the roots of the lilies continue to work, and the bulb gains nutrients, although worse than in the presence of leaves.

Neutral or slightly acidic, loose, permeable soil is well suited for almost all lilies. Every summer 2-3 times I sprinkle the beds with lilies with ash - it serves both as a fertilizer and at the same time kills pathogenic fungi.

Faded flowers should be removed from the peduncles, and the peduncles themselves should be trimmed at the end of the season.

In late autumn, the stems of lilies are cut short. In areas with little snow and harsh winter conditions, lily plantings should be covered with peat or sawdust with a layer of 10 cm.

In the 2-3rd year after planting, lilies bloom especially abundantly; in the 4th-5th year, the growth of the plant usually decreases, and the flowering of the garden flower also weakens. This serves as a signal that it is time to divide and transplant the lily to a new location.

You need to start caring for lilies from the moment they are planted. Planted lilies definitely need shelter. For these purposes, sawdust, dry peat, fallen leaves, and shavings are used. Lilies should be covered for the winter only after the soil has slightly frozen, so that mice and other rodents do not find “both the table and the house” under the sawdust. And in the spring, the shelter must be removed in time, even before the sprouts appear.

During the flowering of the white (or snow-white) “Lilium candidum” (Lilium candidum), collect its petals and use them to prepare a medicinal tincture, which also cleanses the skin well. Fill half a dark glass jar with the petals of blossoming flowers, fill them with wine alcohol so that it covers the petals by 2 fingers, close the jar tightly and put it in a dark, cool place for 6 weeks. Pour a little liquid into a small dark jar, dilute it by two-thirds with cold boiled water and use, remembering to shake before use, to wipe your face with a moistened cotton swab. For muscle pain, rub the sore areas with undiluted white lily tincture. If you prick or cut your finger and an abscess begins, take a lily petal from the tincture, apply it to the wound, cover with parchment and bandage it - the next day the abscess will disappear.

Lily propagation.

Reproduction by daughter bulbs (children). Babies are formed in almost all lilies above the bulb, on the underground part of the stem. They are separated from the mother plant in the fall or early spring during transplantation or simply after raking the soil from the stem. The separated daughter bulbs are planted in a permanent place or for growing in nurseries. Children bloom in 2-4 years.

Reproduction by scales.

You can separate the scales from the bulbs at any time of the year, including winter, if the bulbs are dug up in advance and stored in
cool place.

Depending on the time of year, after preliminary preparation, the scales are planted in beds, in boxes, in greenhouses, or stored as bulbs.
The scales separated from the bulb are kept for 15 minutes. in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, slightly dried and placed in plastic bags or dishes with moistened sawdust, peat at a temperature of +20 +22 0C. After 5-6 weeks, bulbs with roots form on the scales. In spring they are planted in the ground.

Reproduction by bebys.

Bulb-bearing varieties are most often found among Asian hybrids.
A number of lily varieties have the ability to form small stem soil bulbs - bulbs - in the axils of the leaves. As they ripen in August-September, they are collected and planted in the same way as children. The plantings are covered for the winter. You can plant bulbs in the spring, then they are stored all winter in tied plastic bags with peat at tO 1-3°C.

Common mistakes when growing lilies
1 .Low-lying area for planting.
Lilies do not tolerate excess moisture. Planting in lowlands leads to diseases, rotting of the bulbs and even their death.
How to avoid this.
It is necessary to choose a site for planting where there is no stagnation of melt and rain water either in spring or autumn, or to arrange reliable drainage.
2. Application of fresh or slightly decomposed manure.
Due to the pathogenic microflora contained there, lily bulbs quickly become sick.
How to avoid this.
Use ready-made disinfected composts ("PIKSA", "Bogatyr") or leaf humus as an organic fertilizer for planting lilies.
3. Lack of watering or improper watering.
Despite the intolerance of excess moisture by most lilies, prolonged drought is also destructive for these flowers, and in dry weather lilies need watering.
How to avoid this.
Water abundantly, but infrequently. Water only at the roots: water that gets on the leaves can provoke the development of diseases.
4. Overheating of the soil.
Very harmful to lilies, especially in open spaces. Too high a temperature disrupts the flow of biological processes in the bulb.
How to avoid this.
Mulch the soil with light materials (sawdust, straw, grass clippings).

A bouquet of lilies remains fresh for more than 10 days. Cut lily flowers are quite unpretentious and do not require frequent changes of water in the vase. Don't be afraid to buy a lily with unopened buds. It is enough if at least one flower begins to open on the branch. The more closed buds on the stem, the better - the flowering will last longer. Lily buds open gradually, from lower to upper, just remove the faded ones as they fade.

If you get dirty with pollen

Remove pollen from furniture and clothing using adhesive tape. Almost all varieties of lilies have a rich scent. Lilies with large flowers of white and pink color - especially, which intensifies at night. Therefore, it is recommended to remove the vase with lilies from the bedrooms.