What you need to buy for renovation in the bathroom. DIY bathroom repair: work sequence

Sometimes people try to save money and do only selectively cosmetic finishing in the living space. But this principle is not entirely acceptable for a bathroom or a toilet. It is recommended to carry out here in order to avoid serious costs in the future. This is due to the functionality of the premises and the concentration of the main communications. It is about repairing from scratch that will be discussed in our article.

What is renovation from scratch

When they talk about renovating from scratch, they mean all stages of work in the bathroom:

    1. replacement or connection of sewer and water pipes of cold and hot supply;
    2. electrician distribution on walls and ceilings;
    3. wall decoration from base to finish;
    4. floor work from screed to finishing layer;
    5. ceiling decoration;
    6. plumbing installation;
    7. connection of mixers and household appliances;
    8. ventilation system;
    9. installation of an interior door;
    10. installation of bathroom furniture;
    11. filling the space with accessories.

Photos are enlarged, click!

Important! Regardless of the room in which the bathroom is being renovated (a new apartment or a secondary one), from scratch - this means everything is updated to the smallest detail. Such renovations require a careful approach during the design phase, because the costs can be different in completely identical bathrooms. It is during this period that it is necessary to decide on the design of the bathroom and understand what materials and components will be needed for the project.

  • In new apartments, the developer only makes a connection to the bathroom, and leaves the placement of engineering structures at the discretion of the residents.
  • In apartments that have been renovated for more than five years, communications are usually not in the best condition, which requires replacement to prevent breakdowns. If the replacement is not carried out, it will be a pity and costly to eliminate the consequences in the future. For modern renovation in the bathroom from scratch, hidden installation of communications is acceptable, so as not to spoil the aesthetic appearance of the room. It is risky to do this with old pipes. It is more economical to replace old communications with new ones, not forgetting about plumbing.

Sequence of work when repairing from scratch

Having imagined the scale of work when renovating a bathroom from scratch, it is necessary to draw up an estimate. Without a detailed analysis of the space and drawings on paper, it is difficult to make a list of the necessary materials. If you are far from design views and do not have experience in finishing work, entrust the repair of a bathroom from scratch to specialists. Believe me, this option will cost less than reworking after the master of ineptitude.

When choosing a team, find out the prices of different companies and choose the option that is optimal for the budget. Typically, the range of services includes the work of a plumber, an electrician. With self-repair, you will have to invite them to connect water, sewage and electricity.

Important! The repair time in the bathroom depends on the condition of the room. If a new floor screed is required, the time is long for the solution to dry out. It also takes time to dry the walls if the alignment is done with plaster on the beacons. But to achieve perfect evenness of surfaces is to get beautiful walls, a floor without level drops.

When a bathroom is being renovated from scratch, there is the possibility of redevelopment:

  • combine toilet and bathroom;
  • move the door;
  • change the geometry of the room to a more functional one;
  • build in a warm floor;
  • add a heating element;
  • replace bulky plumbing with a compact version if the space is small.

Important! The choice of materials must be done in advance, because many bring only to order and the time frame can be long. Designer advice will avoid this expectation by offering counterparts.

If the renovation is done from scratch, then the choice of style is the wishes and tastes of the owner. The size of the bathroom is an important criterion here. Not all styles are suitable for small rooms, but for spacious ones there are a lot of ideas. For any style, it is possible to choose both expensive finishes and budget materials of good quality. And this is an important question when deciding to make a renovation from scratch in a bathroom.

If you are facing major changes in the bathroom, then you should be patient for a certain period. The term depends on the type of work and the experience of the team or home craftsman.

We look at the photo:

Video material:

Watch a video of finishing a bathroom from scratch.

What can happen to the installed floor tiles if the walls are repaired immediately afterwards? In the best case, the floor covering will have to be cleaned for a long time. In the worst case, you will have to replace the floor finish in whole or in part. Therefore, when renovating a bathroom, it is necessary to clearly remember what sequence of actions must be performed.

In this article, we will understand the exact sequence of actions and answer the question - where to start renovating the bathroom?

Planning is considered the most important and mandatory step in the renovation of any premises. But what is it for if you are going to renovate your bathroom? In this case, planning allows you to achieve the following:

  • see the final decision;
  • decide on the sequence of repair work;
  • determine the required amount of finishing and building materials.

Planning helps you determine where to start. At this stage, you can decide on a suitable design solution, as well as choose the option of laying electrical wiring and placing plumbing fixtures. The project will allow you to choose the right communication scheme.

Bathroom renovation - layout

This is the most time consuming stage, even if you are assisted by a professional designer. It is important to discard unsuitable options and settle on a suitable solution for each family member. You can proceed to the next stage only after careful study of this.

Purchase of materials

You shouldn't give preference to the cheapest materials. This applies equally to building materials and finishing materials. A quality repair cannot be cheap. So, when using a trowel mixture with a low cost and low quality, you can lose in safety. Over time, fungus may appear on the seams and behind the tiles. As a result, repairs will have to be carried out again in 2-3 years.

The bathroom is a special room that has a certain level of humidity and temperature. These indicators are not constant here, but they are often increased. Therefore, cheap finishing and building materials cannot be used here, since they significantly reduce the duration of the operation of this room. Installing ceramic tiles on a cheap adhesive in the kitchen or hallway won't hurt the renovation. But in the bathroom, this option is unacceptable.

You have decided to renovate your bathroom, where to start first? After completing planning, you need to proceed to purchasing the necessary materials. You can save money if you use a cumulative discount system. It exists in almost any salon or large hardware store.

We remove all unnecessary from the bathroom

If you want to save money, you can dismantle it yourself. In this case, the quality of the new repair will not suffer, and you will not have to pay for dismantling work.

Features of dismantling in the bathroom

These jobs do not require professionalism. It they must be carried out according to certain rules. When dismantling, you must not break anything. Everything must be carefully disassembled. It is not a matter of preservation for the purpose of further use and not for sale. The main concern is security. In case of improperly carried out work, you can not only damage the structure, but also injure yourself.

Removing the bathtub from the bathroom

Removal of old coatings and disassembly of the finish is carried out in a specific sequence. No matter how this process looks from the outside, it should take place according to a strictly worked out scheme. To protect yourself, you must first decide what and how to properly beat off or cut off.

If you are planning a major bathroom renovation, where to start the dismantling work? Carry out the following sequence of actions:

  1. Remove all old plumbing and furniture from the bathroom.
  2. Remove old tiles and paint from wall, ceiling and floor surfaces.
  3. Dismantle walls, if necessary for the project.

Note that walls are cleaned down to concrete or brick, and floors and ceilings are cleaned down to floor slabs. Otherwise, your repair will not be of high quality and durable. But the greatest attention should be paid to the surfaces of the walls. It is important that they are perfectly flat. If there is a deep notch or hole from a punch, sooner or later the finish will deteriorate.

Another problem is the installation of hidden communications. It is important to do it correctly and very accurately. Usually, hidden communications in the bathroom mean plumbing and electrical wiring. They are installed in pre-made strobes.

If you want to make a major overhaul in the bath, photos in our gallery will suggest a suitable solution. When carrying out a major overhaul, both the internal wiring of the electrics and the water pipes with risers should be changed. As for the issues of electrical wiring during the overhaul, a new input will be required.

Old wiring, as a rule, cannot cope with the stress of modern electrical appliances. Previously, only lighting was used in the bathroom, which consumed no more than 200 watts. At the moment, not only more powerful lighting is being installed in this room, but also a washing machine and a tank for heating water. The total energy consumption is usually at least 4.5 kW.

The increased capacity also dictates new safety rules that apply to both electricity and water supply. Among the basic safety rules, the following are distinguished:

  1. High-quality grounding device.
  2. The presence of RCDs and circuit breakers.
  3. The presence of an anti-flood system, which is mounted directly on the risers.

To decide where to start renovating the bathroom, the photos on our website will help you solve this problem.

Floor waterproofing

It must be done without fail. Thanks to high-quality waterproofing of the floor in this room, it is possible to retain about 100 liters of water if the room is flooded.

This means that water simply will not penetrate to your neighbors from below. But it is unlikely to save from large flooding, which is associated with the breakthrough of the riser. But waterproofing will give the time it takes to shut off the water supply. You will not have to worry about small leaks, which are sometimes the case in the process of using the bathroom.

Bath waterproofing

What quality waterproofing should be? At its core, it is a "trough", the sides of which are the lower part of the walls, and the bottom is the base of the floor. To seal these surfaces, the following options are used:

  1. Bituminous mastic.
  2. Roll insulation.

Aligning surfaces

Smooth surfaces will be the key to an excellent look for finishing the room as a whole. Not sure where to start your bathroom renovation? It is important to correctly level the surfaces before facing them. Many people say that they do not need to be leveled, as this can be done during the tiling process with glue. But this is the wrong decision.

A significant layer of glue can cause it to "float". Because of this, the reliability of adhesion of the tile to the surfaces of the floor and walls is reduced. In addition, you will have to provide a fairly large budget for the purchase of adhesive.

Aligning the walls in the bathroom

Leveling surfaces will be cheaper if you use drywall sheets or plaster mix for this. In this case, you will not need to buy a lot of adhesive for installing ceramic tiles on the surface of the floor and ceiling. A competent alignment leads to the fact that the tile is glued exactly on all parts of the plane.

The final stage of bathroom renovation

It is necessary to carry out the following sequence of actions:

  1. Tape floor and wall surfaces.
  2. Renovate the ceiling.
  3. Replace the door.
  4. Equip the room.

Surface cladding begins with wall surface finishing. Then the floor surface is finished. Then you can lay the bottom row of tiles on the wall. It is also called undercutting. It is important to lay the tiles in this place last, as they will have to be cut anyway. After that, the tile should stand for at least 2-3 days. After that, you can start grouting and move on to other work.

Repair of the surface of the bathroom ceiling is carried out only after the completion of the finishing of the room as a whole. then the door is installed. It is important that it cope with high humidity. All actions should be carried out after finishing work is fully completed.

The work includes several stages. Their number depends on what is to be done. In any case, all actions must be planned carefully. This is the only way to avoid irreversible consequences. With a comprehensive reorganization, the creation and approval of the project will be required. Some measures are prohibited at the legislative level, some cannot be coordinated due to the unsatisfactory state of communications and supporting structures, as well as their features. Basically, it all comes down to replacing or re-equipping plumbing, flooring, wall and ceiling decoration. you can do it yourself. We will tell you how.

Bathroom self-repair process

Redevelopment

How not to break the law? The help of professionals will be required if it is necessary to develop project documentation and its approval in government agencies. Only licensed organizations have the right to engage in this type of activity.

When agreement is needed

  • when changes affecting electrics, ventilation and other communications should be reflected in the technical passport of the room. These activities may include replacing plumbing and installing equipment that increases energy consumption.
  • In case of redevelopment, which is a change in the configuration of the walls on the BTI plan. These include the device of openings, the transfer of partitions.

There are a number of restrictions imposed by legislation and sanitary standards. If GOSTs and SNiPs are valid throughout Russia, then the ban on carrying out a certain type of work is regulated by local legislative bodies. The requirements are usually the same. The differences depend on the climatic conditions in different regions, but there are not so many of them. As an example, consider the list of prohibited activities established by the Moscow Government Decree No. 508 PP.

What not to do during redevelopment

  • Complete or partial demolition of ventilation shafts. In typical apartments, they are usually adjacent to the bathrooms.
  • The installation of concrete screeds, the construction of heavy partitions, the installation of plumbing, if this increases the load on the floor and the places of its support in excess of the permissible.
  • Connecting the "warm floor" to the hot water riser.
  • Stacking in interpanel seams and reinforced concrete slabs.
  • at the expense of living rooms. It is allowed to narrow it only within the limits indicated in the technical standards.
  • Violation of fire safety rules.
  • Arrangement of toilets, bathrooms and showers on the mezzanine. It is prohibited to locate baths, sinks, as well as any other equipment in these places.
  • Any changes that result in poor living conditions for apartment owners and their neighbors. Housing must comply with sanitary and technical standards. Failure to comply with them often becomes noticeable to all residents of the entrance.
  • Actions that cause weakening of the supporting structures of the building. These may be permitted techniques, for which you do not need to make a project and agree on it, however, if the house is in a state close to emergency, it is better to first conduct a survey. To do this, you need to contact an engineering organization that has special equipment and call a specialist to your home.
  • It is strictly forbidden to carry out repair work in emergency buildings.

How to start renovation work in the bathroom

Decide what exactly needs to be replaced

First of all, you need to determine the goal, figure out what needs to be changed and what can be left. For example, and put a new one instead. Acrylic coating will solve the problem. A shower stall compensates for the lack of space, but such a solution is unlikely to be suitable for those who like to lie in hot water. The owners of cramped bathrooms in typical apartments often decide to combine a bathroom and toilet with a corridor leading to the kitchen, creating a single space. This option will seem unsuccessful to many, but it also has many positive aspects. Here everything is decided by personal preferences. They concern not only convenience, but also interior design.

Think over the floor plan

As with any serious business, repairs should begin with a plan. When significant changes are coming, it is best to consult a specialist from an engineering firm. It is possible that some of the plans will not be realized. To insure yourself against mistakes, it is advisable to conduct a technical survey. If the neighbors cut through a wide opening from below, the already worn-out structures are unlikely to be able to withstand the weight of a thick concrete screed. But its device does not even require approval.

To visualize the final result, it is better to visualize it. The sketch can be made in color, supplemented with an applique from samples of finishing materials, or it can be performed on a copy of the bathroom plan, marking the changes in the contours of the partitions with red lines. It is more convenient to make several printouts to compare different options. When replacing plumbing, its image to scale is cut out of paper and transferred to copies of the plan in search of a better location. This method is used by professional designers.

In the case of drawing up a conversion project or redevelopment, the planning stage is simplified. All calculations, including the estimate, can be entrusted to the design organization. Such companies usually work with construction crews. If the cost of the contractor's services is too high, it will not be difficult to find one yourself.

Make an estimate

An estimate is one of the most important planning stages. In order not to stop half way due to a lack of funds, it is necessary to calculate the upcoming costs by finding out how much the materials and services of construction companies cost. It is important to know how many materials are required. It is better to buy them with a small margin in case of marriage or damage during storage and transportation.

Schedule deadlines

Before you get down to business, you need to plan. For example, if the bathroom cannot be repaired quickly, you may have to deal with the washing and washing problem.

It is important to provide for a storage site for building materials and solve all organizational issues related to garbage disposal. It is necessary to determine if the container is needed and where to put it in the yard.

If the whole apartment is to be, a complete algorithm of actions is required. For example, so that a new bathtub does not scratch the lining in the corridor during transportation, it is better to install it before finishing work.

Dismantling

So, the plan is made. First of all, you need to get rid of everything that needs to be replaced. You can begin to dismantle the plumbing and old coating. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the electrics and pipes. The floor in the hallway must be covered with foil or newspapers so as not to scratch, taking out heavy bags of waste and a used bath.

In parallel, the purchase of finishing and equipment is being carried out. If the tile or sink is ordered from Europe, it will take about two months or more to arrive. In August, all manufacturing companies go on vacation. The time should be calculated in such a way that the order arrives before the end of July, otherwise you will have to wait a month longer.

For storage, it is better to take a separate room where they will not interfere. It is safer to keep them in packages or under a layer of newspapers. Varnishes and paints should be stored on a balcony or loggia, or in a well-ventilated area.

In panel houses built before 1998, the bathroom and toilet are placed in the so-called plumbing booth. It is a box made of asbestos cement, which was installed entirely during the construction of the building in order to save time. Asbestos cement is a health hazard. It causes cancer and other dangerous diseases. This is reason enough to get rid of it as quickly as possible and put in new partitions. In modern construction, others are used, more, although the method is still used now.

The demolition of the plumbing booth does not have to be coordinated if new partitions are installed along the contour of the old ones without increasing their weight. An aluminum frame lined with plasterboard is suitable for this purpose.

Rough work

You should start with rough work. Plumbing is installed after finishing.

Shredding

When the old coating is removed, electrical wiring channels, hot and cold water pipes, and sewerage are laid along the floor, walls and ceiling. In the walls of monolithic and brick houses, it is allowed to lay shallow grooves to bring the wire to new sockets. The maximum depth is 2 cm. The cable is laid in a corrugated tube and sealed with mortar. Pipes are prohibited by sanitary regulations. In case of an accident, they must be accessible. They can be hidden in removable boxes with inspection hatches.

Waterproofing and soundproofing

In typical buildings, waterproofing does not always meet even the standards that were used during construction. The same is the case with soundproof materials, which lose their properties over time. In order not to flood the neighbors, you will have to take precautions. The floor slab is cleared of debris and dust. Interpanel seams and other voids are sealed with mortar, mastic or sealant.

A layer of waterproofing is placed below. As a rule, roll materials based on polyethylene or roofing material are used. To avoid leaks, an overlap of 10 cm is made. The seams are glued with tape. From above, panels of expanded polystyrene or. They are closed with another layer of polyethylene, after which they are poured with a concrete screed. It gains brand strength within one month, but it will be possible to walk on it within a week. There are special leveling compounds based on polymers. They have a liquid consistency and, when spreading, form a perfectly flat, smooth surface.

Fine finishing

How to make repairs in the bathroom with your own hands? For walls and ceilings, moisture-resistant plaster and putty are used.

Walls

You can use decorative plaster with dyes and particles of natural stone, paint, lining. It is better to varnish the wood so that water does not get inside and does not destroy its structure. Protection against mold and mildew is provided by special impregnations and sanitizing agents. There is a plastic lining that is not afraid of water.

Ceiling

In bathrooms, they are often used, which are a PVC film stretched over a frame, which is attached around the perimeter. This finish has a drawback - the film easily melts and loses its shape even at a temperature of 60 degrees. To make it unusable, it is enough to get a jet of hot water on it. The best option is moisture-resistant paint or a suspended frame sheathed with plasterboard. It is better not to use porous materials, such as foam panels, when decorating rooms with high humidity.

The sequence of work can be different. You can go from top to bottom from the ceiling to the floor. When finishing, it is better to move to the walls when the tiles are already on the floor.

Plumbing installation

The sink and bathtub are installed after finishing work. It is necessary to think in advance how they will be connected to the pipeline. Soft plastic wiring is used for the bathtubs. Together with the siphon, it is hidden from the eye, so its decorative qualities are not important. For washing, on the other hand, external can be very important. Shiny metal thick pipes look good. There are models designed to decorate the interior.

The wiring can be hidden in a plasterboard false wall by making inconspicuous doors in it. The structure based on the sheathed frame allows you to give the wall any shape. If you wish, you can make a niche above the sink, install a mirror in it and bring it into the backlight.

At the final stage, when all devices are connected to the pipeline, and the joints are checked, furniture and decorative elements are installed.

  • Prepared by: Artem Filimonov

Roman Shirokiy

Reading time: 6 minutes

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Hello dear readers! Continuing the theme of repair, I will tell you how to start repairing the bathroom and toilet with your own hands. Surely many repairing these premises are faced with such a question.

If you are the owner of an apartment in which the bathroom is located separately from the toilet, I advise you to start repairs with your own hands at home by working out the same color scheme and style. Even if the rooms are divided, it is one whole. The design is chosen the same or similar in the type of finishing materials used and color.

Toilet and bathroom are kind of twins. I advise you to cover the premises with tiles of the same type, but of a different shade. If you use the same finishing technique, you will end up with dissimilar rooms that will create a different mood. If the walls and floor are made in the same color, but with different finishing materials, discomfort will appear due to the contrast between the rooms.

Video Tips

I think now you understand why it is better to use the same tiles and decor to decorate the bath and toilet. This approach will help you save money. After finishing, there will be scraps, which are likely to find a place in the second room.

Where to start renovating the bathroom


A bathroom is a room in which a person is left alone with thoughts and emotions. Here he takes a shower, relaxes, rests after a hard day, gets rid of irritation and fatigue, gets a boost of energy.

The described effect will only bring a comfortable and comfortable bathroom.

Bathroom renovation step-by-step plan

  1. Measure the room ... Take a piece of paper, pencil, tape measure and measure the length and height of the walls, the area of ​​the room. Based on the numbers obtained, calculate the amount of materials that will be required to repair the bathroom.
  2. Imagine a new bathroom ... Decide on the color and type of finishing materials, the location of the bath, furniture and accessories.
  3. Prepare the room ... Remove old finishes from the walls and ceiling of the bathroom. Work is dusty and dirty, so wear a respirator. You will need a hammer drill, spatula, metal brush and other tools.
  4. Primer the walls ... Route electrical wiring and level the ceiling with putty. At this stage, mark the vertical and horizontal lines using a level or plumb line.
  5. Replacing the water supply ... A responsible step, I do not advise saving on money. We are talking about replacing the plumbing, risers and sewerage in the bathroom.
  6. Floor waterproofing ... By making a cement screed, water will not seep to neighbors. Treat the joints between the walls and the floor, the entire area of ​​the bathroom with a special waterproofing solution.
  7. For wall and floor decoration ... Try putting the tiles in the bathroom yourself. If you don't have the skills, ask a tiler for help. Some, for the sake of economy, do not cover the space behind and under the bathroom. Better to cover the planes, and put the bath on the tiles. The screen will help to hide the side and communications.
  8. Door installation ... If you are going to replace your bathroom door, do so before laying the tiles.
  9. Skirting and ceiling ... At the end, along the perimeter of the ceiling, install a decorative plinth, and paint the ceiling with water-based paint. If this option for finishing the ceiling in the bathroom is not suitable, pay attention to stretch ceilings or structures made of plastic panels. It remains to close the seams.

Video instructions

Following the instructions, you will reach the final stage. At the end, install the sink, hang the mirror and lamp, install the furniture. The result is a beautiful room.

Where to start repairing the toilet


People find it difficult to renovate a washroom. The toilet is an important part of the home, which I advise you to repair thoroughly and correctly, taking into account all the little things. How to start the painstaking process, I will tell you below.

  1. As with the bathroom, I advise you to start repairing the toilet with the preparation of the room. First of all, remove the old toilet, remove old finishing materials from the walls, floor and ceiling.
  2. Bring water and sewerage to the installation site of the new toilet. If the sewage system in the apartment is made of cast iron pipes, replace with plastic products. If pipe replacement is not planned, limit yourself to a plastic supply. It is better to connect pipes using special inserts. Do not forget about the slope that is required for the normal functioning of the sewer.
  3. Pay attention to communications. If they run along the wall, close the box. Be sure to take care that the box is removed or disassembled. This makes it easier to troubleshoot leakage problems.
  4. Place beacons on the toilet walls before plastering. Using as a guideline, line up the walls. After the plaster has dried, lay the tiles.
  5. Switch to the floor. First, make a concrete screed, and after drying, lay the tiles. Do not install the toilet immediately, it will interfere with the work in the upper part of the room.
  6. There are many options for finishing the walls of the toilet. Which finishing material to choose is up to you, but I recommend tiles. If such a cladding is not to your liking, the market offers wallpaper, mosaic tiles, natural stone or wood-like finishes.
  7. Take care of the ceiling. The plasterboard ceiling is suitable for the washroom. It will hide the wiring and ventilation system. If you add a decorative skirting board, you get beauty.
  8. Finally, install a light in the toilet, secure the toilet and attach a paper holder to the wall. I advise you to immediately equip the toilet with shelves for storing air freshener and toilet paper supplies.

Having gone the hard way, in the end you will get a result that will delight you with freshness and originality. But the thought that the author of the masterpiece is you yourself will bring more pleasure.

Where to start repairs in a combined bathroom


The combined bathroom has advantages and disadvantages. The main disadvantage is that the room is available only to one household. Plus - the ability to expand the area of ​​the bathroom. It is easy to put a washing machine or a wardrobe in the combined bathroom.

In modern apartments, the toilet is separate from the bathroom. At the same time, the premises are characterized by a small area and there are often cases when a few centimeters are not enough to install furniture or other object. To fully consider the issue, consider how to combine a bathroom and toilet.

How to combine a bathroom and toilet

This kind of repair, in addition to construction work, provides for "paperwork". According to the rules, redevelopment in the apartment is coordinated with the relevant authorities. In this case, changes are made to the housing plan.

When making a preliminary plan, note down the plumbing relocation, electrical wiring, and plumbing changes. This is an incomplete list of factors that should not be ignored. The work on combining a bathroom is a small technical part of a huge work.

Once you have approved the plan, switch to repairs. It is better if the household members go on a summer vacation for a while. As a result, they will protect themselves from discomfort, and no one will bother you.

  • Remove the partition between the bathroom and toilet, line up the walls, which are usually extremely crooked.
  • Redo the pipes. If necessary, change their location so that they do not interfere. The same goes for the heated towel rail.
  • The next step is to install electrical wiring. Route cables, locate switches and outlets, and install.
  • Primer the walls and level the floor with a concrete screed. Before laying the floor covering, be it tiles or other finishing material, fill the floor with bitumen. This will reduce the likelihood of neighbors flooding in the event of a leak.
  • Stretch ceilings are a good option for a combined unit. Only entrust their installation to professionals, since the arrangement of the ceiling involves the use of special equipment and skills.
  • Decorate the walls and lay the flooring. To visually expand the space of the room, embed a large mirror in each wall. The combined bathroom will be beautiful and original.
  • The final stage of the repair involves the installation of plumbing, furniture placement, connection of household appliances, installation of bath accessories - hanging soap dishes, hooks.

If you want to achieve results, listen to the recommendations. They will help you complete the repairs quickly and successfully. When the family returns home, the beauty of the combined bathroom will surprise.

The choice of furniture and the layout of the bathroom


I devote the final part of the article to the layout of the bathroom and the subtleties of choosing furniture. If you have finances, organize a separate bathroom in the house, especially if the family is large. As a result, several people will be able to cope with needs at the same time. If you like a combined bathroom, make sure that it has a sliding partition. Use it to divide the room into zones.

The size of the room. To make the toilet convenient and comfortable, allocate a few square meters for the arrangement. No extra space required. Design the bathroom, guided by tastes and preferences, but you should not overdo it with space - 6-10 squares are enough.

Furniture . Before buying furniture, decide what you want to see in the room. Usually this is a set of a sink, a mirror, a pencil case and a floor stand. Sometimes a hanging cabinet is provided. Before buying a bath headset, make sure of the quality. On the surface of the furniture, paint should lie in an even layer.

Fittings. From accessories, choose models equipped with chrome legs, handles and metal hinges. Fittings are also made of plastic, coated with a layer of chrome. Such furniture is not worth buying, since chrome-plated or gilded plastic handles will quickly lose their original appearance.

Sink . Be sure to inspect the sink for chips and damage. Check the integrity of the product by tapping it lightly. Buy a sink that emits a pleasant ringing boldly. A dull sound is a sign of defects.

Bedside tables and wardrobes... When choosing bedside tables and cabinets, be guided by the size of the room, the number of residents and tastes. If there is more than enough space, buy a large set that can fit a hairdryer, curling iron, shampoos and other things. If there are problems with the area, pay attention to a set of pedestals and several hanging boxes.

Do-it-yourself bathroom repair is in any case worth considering: payment for work is at least 50% of the cost of materials, that is, self-repair will cost at least one and a half times cheaper, and repairing a bathroom and toilet is expensive in itself. But you need to approach the matter with all responsibility: repairing a bathroom requires not only thorough knowledge, but also quite high skill. Therefore, first of all, you should calculate the costs of self-repair, then carefully study the proposals of professionals and, if there is a master or a company ready to make a bathroom renovation inexpensively compared to your estimated costs, then contact them. In any case, we start preparing for the repair by studying the prices.

Prices and costs

Materials for bathroom renovation must be chosen carefully. In addition to the usual parameters, the coefficient of moisture absorption (a bathroom is a room with high humidity), the coefficient of thermal expansion (there are frequent temperature changes in the bathroom) and porosity are important - it is important from a sanitary and hygienic point of view. So you can’t count on “just being cheaper”.

It is most likely that it will not be possible to find exact data on the parameters of the materials, and it is difficult for a non-specialist to understand them, so you should choose materials specially designed for bathrooms or for outdoor use. Prices for materials suitable for bathroom renovation are approximately as follows:

  1. Tile for the floor - from 40 rubles / piece (30x30 cm) made in the CIS and from 60 rubles / piece from European production, with not the best quality, but often the best decor.
  2. Wall tiles - the price per piece is the same, but the size of one tile is smaller.
  3. Porcelain stoneware tiles - from 50 rubles / piece.
  4. Glue, cross patterns, tile grout - plus 50% of the cost per unit area.
  5. Glass magnesite sheet (SML) 1220x2440 mm - from 250 rubles / sheet.
  6. Laminate - from 300 rubles / board 300x2950 mm.
  7. Self-leveling floor - from 220 rubles / 10 liters of ready-made compound.
  8. The same, with the effect of insulation (ThermoPlast compound) - from 640 rubles / sq.m.
  9. Teak or larch floor - from 500 rubles / sq.m.
  10. PPN polypropylene pipes for cold water - from 24 rubles / sq.m.
  11. The same PPR for hot water (reinforced) - from 35 rubles / sq.m.
  12. Sewer pipes 50 mm - from 45 rubles / sq.m.
  13. Fittings for pipelines and valves - 60% of the price of pipes.
  14. PVA emulsion - from 240 rubles / pack of 5 liters.

Guided by these prices and knowing the area of ​​the floor, ceiling and walls in your bathroom, you can estimate how much it costs to repair a bathroom on your own. When calculating, consider the following:

  • You do not need all the names of materials. The selection criteria for a particular case are indicated below when describing the stages of work.
  • All of these materials are of equal quality in the final result. The use of cheaper materials only complicates the choice and delays the work.
  • For battle and waste of small tiles, a stock of 3-5% should be given by the piece: for example, 300 pieces come out in area. on the floor. You need to purchase 310-315. If a small bathroom is being repaired, 5-7% should be put on waste and battle.
  • The waste of panel materials is calculated in preparation for the corresponding stage of work, see below for sections.
  • For other materials (cement, sand, putty, silicone, etc.), add 35-40% to the amount received.
  • The total time for doing work with your own hands will be at least 2 weeks for the bath and toilet and at least 2 months when replacing the floor screed.
  • Prices for plumbing fixtures depend on your choice by name and manufacturer.

Advice:

  1. Focusing on prices, be sure to ask potential contractors not only the total cost of the work, but also their prices for individual materials. Suppliers give a discount to good craftsmen, and prices will be lower than store prices. If it comes out more expensive, contact someone else: in front of you are either hack-seekers, or inept.
  2. When choosing a heated towel rail, consider a custom made stainless steel option. Chromed brass is often more expensive, and other varieties are either very expensive (such as with additional electric heating) or are of no use in terms of quality.
  3. Also consider purchasing a faucet with an infrared sensor. It automatically turns on when you bring your hands to it and gives water at a predetermined temperature. The device is not cheap, but the real savings are about 50% (half!) Of water and 35-40% of electricity for heating it.

Sequence of work

Let's say you decide that you can do an economical bathroom repair yourself. In this case, you need to know that bathroom repairs are carried out in a certain sequence:

  1. Selection of the number and range of plumbing fixtures.
  2. Development of design and selection of its colors.
  3. Calculation of the quantity and purchase of finishing materials.
  4. Preparation of the premises.
  5. Revision of the condition of the floor and the choice of a method for its repair.
  6. Purchase of materials for floor renovation.
  7. Floor repair: waterproofing, screed replacement, insulation.
  8. Laying of pipelines.
  9. Laying of electrical wiring.
  10. and the ceiling.
  11. Ceiling decoration: insulation and cladding.
  12. Floor covering.
  13. Wall decoration: cladding, grouting, corner sealing.
  14. Installation of ventilation.
  15. Plumbing installation and assembly.

As you can see, the recommended sequence of work is somewhat different from the traditional one. Explanations follow in the text; we, before describing how to make repairs in the bathroom, will further clarify some important points:

  • A warm, damp bathroom is a favorable environment for the growth of microorganisms. Therefore, finishing methods like drywall on the crate are not considered: any deaf cavity in the wall will sooner or later become a breeding ground for infection.
  • The bathroom, according to the degree of risk of electric shock, is a particularly dangerous room: high humidity, high temperature, electrically conductive (wet with any type of coating) floor. Consequently, the question of sockets and switches in the bathroom disappears - it is fraught with risk to life and a considerable fine. How to get around this limitation, without formally breaking the rules and without putting your life in danger, is described in detail in another article; here we will only give general guidelines.
  • When planning work in the bathroom, you should in every possible way avoid the use of ordinary industrial wood, parts and fasteners made of plain steel with any coating, aluminum and other materials that corrode with constantly high humidity or actively absorb moisture.
  • In a small apartment, it makes perfect sense to install a shower cabin instead of the previous bath; possibly combined with a corner sitz bath. At the current prices for drinking water and hot water supply, residents of budget housing do not often want to soak up the bath, and in a small bathroom, space is freed up for a washing machine.

Getting started with the repair

Plumbing and design

How to start DIY bathroom renovation? With the development of its design, and design - with the choice of plumbing. Let's not joke about the combination of high and low matters: the complexity of the repair and the cost of it largely depend on these stages. For example: a tulip washbasin greatly simplifies the laying of pipes, but requires tiles of increased smoothness and without relief for wall cladding, otherwise dirt will slowly creep along the walls from the stand under it. A bathtub faucet also makes piping easier, but then a separate washbasin faucet is needed.

It is impossible to list all the nuances, we will only inform you of the fact: in the same apartments of the same house, the bathrooms are approximately the same in appearance, with the same materials from the same supplier, the cost of repairs differ by up to 20%. Considering the total cost of such an expensive object as a bathroom, the amount is considerable. So - we think, consider, estimate.

You can also notice that in an ordinary house you don't even have to think about a mixer built into the wall: the possibility of this kind of luxury is laid down at the stage of building design. In typical houses, gouging a niche for it is unacceptable.

Materials (edit)

Pipes

The only suitable pipe material is polypropylene. Metal-plastic is more expensive and, in terms of technical and economic indicators, is more suitable for long or long pipelines with many bends. They are not observed in the bathroom, but gaskets in fittings for metal-plastic will someday flow, but propylene can be welded into a solid monolith and hidden in walls without fear.

As for PVC or polyethylene, pipes made of them, in terms of their combination of properties, are suitable for country houses, prefabricated panel houses and other cheap short-lived buildings. Steel pipes are still the cheapest, but, as you know, they rust from the inside, it is difficult to work with them, and in an apartment or a small private house all their cheapness comes to naught.

Advice: when choosing pipes, measure their outer diameter with a vernier caliper. Otherwise, it may turn out that instead of one expensive diamond drill you will have to buy two.

Fittings and fittings

It is worth talking about propylene fittings especially. In the bathroom, where even open connections are difficult to access, fittings should only be made of solid plastic. The transition to metal is permissible only when connected to consumers, for example, a boiler (see Fig.). It is with the help of such fittings that you can assemble a one-piece water supply and hide it out of sight, without thinking about leaks. Of course, this requires a special soldering iron.

Butt joint is completely unacceptable. Accordingly, if it is necessary to connect two pipe sections, then this is also done using a special coupling.

The shut-off valves are ball valves, but again, soldered into plastic, also see the figure on the right. For connection with metal - a pipe with thickened walls and a thread in plastic. Practice shows that on hot pipes, the metal threaded insert weakens over time, squeezes out and a leak appears.

Tile

For the floor, the best choice is porcelain stoneware. It is only slightly more expensive than tiles, which in a small area results in a penny, but much stronger and not slippery even with a smooth surface. The last thing in the bathroom is vital: Fractures and traumatic brain injuries of those who slip in the bathroom are not the last in the medical statistics for emergency services.

When buying, it is imperative to check the dimensional accuracy and surface condition of the tiles:

  1. Demand from the seller several pieces from different packages. Refuses - we go to another.
  2. Put the tiles on the bottom on a flat surface close to each other in pairs and, turning 90 degrees, look at the upper edge. If for 3-4 pairs the difference in size does not exceed 1 mm, you can take from this batch after checking the "face" and glaze.
  3. We also apply the tiles in pairs with the front surfaces to each other. There should not be a bump, "trough" or "propeller" visible to the eye.
  4. Next, we take the tile, bring it close to the eyes and look along its surface against the light. There are dots, cracks, a micro-rainbow - we reject it: it will soon become overgrown with dirt in the bathroom and cannot be cleaned.

Such high requirements for bathroom tiles are explained not so much by aesthetics as by hygiene: dirt invisible to the eye will become a hotbed for the spread of infection, and under the bathroom it is both difficult to control the condition of the surface and it is difficult to wash it. Therefore, it is better not to consider options for "alternative" products at all.

Tool and glue

It is better to take tile glue that dries slowly - 12-24 hours. When self-laying, this will allow you to work slowly and eliminate flaws without deteriorating the quality of the coating. In the first place, again, hygiene: the tile can still hold firmly, but in the tiny shell under it, the microbes will find themselves a cozy and inaccessible habitat for you.

The glue spatula must be selected with the pitch and depth of the teeth indicated on the glue package. If there are no such indications, and this glue was previously tested and proved to be reliable, then the teeth are from 3 to 6 mm. A coarse-toothed trowel for gluing the floor will give too high rustic glue, and cavities will probably remain under the tiles.

Look immediately for a diamond core drill for the outside diameter of the pipes you have purchased. Patterns for laying tiles are plastic crosses, it will be difficult to work with others in the bathroom. You don't have to worry about a trowel for grouting: instead of it, a piece of electric cable with a diameter of 5-6 mm in vinyl insulation will go perfectly, see below. But be sure to stock up on flannel rags (for the same grout), and it is better to purchase 5-6 cheap microfiber cloths for cleaning glasses.

The rest of the materials for bathroom renovation are selected according to the usual criteria for construction work.

Room preparation

First of all, you need to decide what to do with the old bathroom. If cast iron - it is better to leave and. If it is tin, but without chips of enamel and somehow sealed fistulas, then the best solution would be. Well, and it is better to hand over the "killed tin" for scrap and put acrylic instead. New cast iron is not much better in quality and durability, and you will have to turn it over and over and risk damaging the newly laid decor.

Then we turn off the water, disconnect the cold pipe after the drain to the cistern and throw the temporary huts into the kitchen, at least from the garden irrigation hose. Sitting completely without water for at least 10 days is certainly "neither there, nor here." You just need to remember to block the branches from the risers at night or when leaving the house: the hose is a hose.

Then we remove everything from the bathroom to the bare walls. We are not touching the sewerage system yet. We plug the pipes of heating pipes suitable for the heated towel rail with screw plugs. Disconnect the bathroom wiring in the junction box; for lighting during operation, you will have to use a portable lamp on an extension cord.

Now you can start cleaning the surfaces, starting from the ceiling. This work must be done in goggles and a respirator: there will be a lot of dust. But before starting, we knock and try to drill the walls with a REGULAR drill.

In the panel house of some "Brezhnev" projects, a "pleasant" surprise can await you: an internal insulating box made of GVP (gypsum fiber boards). It certainly needs to be removed; you will see the inside of the slabs and the lathing - you will understand why. Work is being added, and you need to work carefully with the ceiling: substitute supports so that it does not collapse.

We knock down the old tiles with a perforator with a chisel on concrete. If the tile was laid on a cement mortar, you will have to tinker: there should be no residues. We remove the paint and the top layer of plaster with a drill with a round metal brush 80-100 mm; this is the dustiest and most unpleasant part of the work, so it is advisable to send the family off somewhere, and close the door to the bathroom tightly or, if already removed, tightly tighten its opening with a film. Otherwise, upon the return of the household, as they say in Odessa, you will have something to listen to. And what to buy again, especially furniture and carpets.

Suddenly the old plaster turns out to be loose and fragile (in old houses - most often), we remove it to the concrete or brick on the walls. If you are lucky and strong - we align with a drill with a scrubbing brush, checking with a level. There will be a lot of gimmicks, but in the future it will be compensated. We beat the plaster over the electrical wiring with a perforator with a chisel (do not forget to turn it off in the junction box or on the dashboard!) And remove the wires.

Floor revision

We remove the remains of the cement substrate under the tiles from the floor with a perforator with a chisel. If there is a reason not to touch the old screed (for example, the washing machine once completely leaked out, but not a drop leaked to the neighbors), then it is better to use a grinder with a diamond cup (bowl-shaped cleaning wheel). The tool is expensive, but in further work it will pay off with interest.

This is followed by a thorough wet cleaning and a careful examination of the old screed. One crack means either replacing the screed or filling with a liquid leveling compound. The latter, in terms of the total cost of money, labor and time, is optimal, except for the case when a cast-iron bath remains or will be installed - its weight with water is more than permissible.

If a bathroom is being repaired in a Khrushchev, then the self-leveling floor option turns out to be doubly attractive: for a small room, the costs even for the expensive ThermoPlast will be insignificant compared to the general ones, and the leveler can be poured directly over the old tiles. And we immediately get an insulated floor. The layer of the self-leveling floor, taking into account the shrinkage during hardening of 10%, must be at least 30 mm; from this calculation, the required volume is determined. But in any case, a new floor waterproofing will be needed.

Waterproofing

You cannot use ordinary film for waterproofing in the bathroom. It is not for nothing that in relation to the bathroom they say "waterproofing" and not "vapor barrier". There is no alternative material here - aquaizol or its analogs made of polyester (polyethylene terephthalate). If you pour water into a bag made of such a film, tie it up and hang it in July in the very heart of the Karakum Desert, then the water will not decrease within a month.

Waterproofing joints are either glued with a special mastic, or welded with an industrial hair dryer. The latter requires skill, so first you need to practice on the pieces. The insulation is brought onto the walls by at least 25 cm (4000 liters of leaked water per 10 sq. M; the ultimate strength of the overlap by weight) with folds (no cuts!) In the corners. After the insulation has been laid, the floor can be poured or a new screed can be made.

Self-leveling floor

A two-component composition for a self-leveling floor should be taken: an initial, viscous filling - it will not leak to neighbors - and then a leveling liquid or ThermoPlast.

New screed

To insulate the floor, it is impossible to use expanded clay backing in the bathroom - it is very hygroscopic. Foam concrete or foam concrete are also not suitable - they are fragile. In essence, the only option is glass-magnesite slabs, LSU, especially since they are at the level of drywall. The strength of LSU allows you to immediately lay reinforcing mesh on them and place beacons.

The composition of the cement mortar for the screed and the technology of its formation have some features:

  • Cement - grades of at least 400.
  • Sand - sifted quartz.
  • The proportion of sand to cement is 4: 1.
  • Water - in a volume equal to the volume of cement.
  • Additive to water 10% by volume of PVA emulsion.
  • Formation - according to markers - "beacons" with a layer of 40-50 mm.
  • After leveling with the rule - rubbing to smoothness with a slicker.

The latter is necessary, since it is impossible to lay a finishing floor along the logs in the bathroom, and in the case of a tiled floor, the base surface should also be perfectly flat. Consider also: the newly formed one must stand at least 40 days before continuing the work.

Communications

Open pipelines in the bathroom are not pleasing to the eye, and it takes a long time, dusty and tedious to groove the walls under them. In a block house, it is generally impossible to hide a sewer in a gutter: the fittings will not give, but it cannot be broken. In addition, welded joints are not made on sewer pipes, which means that the sewage system should be available for inspection and repair, especially since it is most often clogged.

Sloping pipes

Based on these considerations, we get a combined solution: we run all pipes in a bundle along the bottom and close them with a galvanized slope (see the figure on the right). Facing tiles are glued to the slope with silicone to match the walls or contrasting, and with silicone, the slope is glued to the walls and floor after finishing. If necessary, the silicone is cut with a mounting knife, and at the end of the work, the slope can be glued back into place. In a bathroom with a typical slope layout, you will need about a meter from the wall to the bath screen.

Strobes for pipes will also be needed, but in a minimal amount and short vertical ones: one - if the mixer is common; two - if there is a mixer in the washbasin; 3-4 - if the boiler is installed in the bathroom. The latter is far from the best option; the natural place of the boiler in the "holiday home for need"; those who have not read "1001 Nights" are in the closet.

We start replacing pipelines with the sewerage system: waste pipes are quickly collected on seals with a sealant. It is quite possible to cope with them in a day, and then solder the water pipes without haste. In the grooves, pipes are foamed - this is an additional protection against fogging and heat loss, and electrical wiring is laid in front of the plaster.

The electrical wiring is carried out with a double-insulated wire, tightened into a corrugation. Most often, inexpensive plastic is used, but if during the repair it is planned to replace the electrical wiring in the apartment, then metal is desirable - then all the wiring will be shielded, which is good in all respects.

Heating pipes

And what about the heat pipes of a heated towel rail? We change to metal-plastic. They will go into the wall (shallow grooves are needed) and come out from there with a bend; metal-plastic can be bent. The bottom adapter fittings will hide under the slope, and the top ones will remain where they were - on the dryer. Full cycle of heated towel rail replacement.

Plaster

Floor finishing

The tiles are laid on the floor with glue, but unlike the walls (see below) without seams. Glue streaks are immediately removed as described above. The glue is applied with a spatula with longitudinal strokes of approximately 0.25-0.35 m2; for tiles 30x30 cm - for one next tile.

Laying is carried out from the door so that the cut tiles are under the bathroom and under the slope covering the pipes. The trimmed rows (possibly the penultimate one-piece) are laid after the glue hardens under the already laid ones, so as not to trample on them and not knock off the coating.

Each newly laid tile is tapped with a rubber hammer starting from the previous one. They tap in rows of punches, gradually moving towards the free edge. It is important that there are no voids left under the tiles, which is why the glue rusts should be parallel, not very wide and deep.

Complete instructions for laying tiles on floors and walls.

A separate issue is the wooden floor in the bathroom. It is warm, it is even pleasant to stand on it with bare feet. And you can put a cast-iron bath with any screed: the pressure of the legs will be distributed due to the elasticity of the wood. But a wooden bathroom floor requires special execution and will cost more than a slab.

Teak and larch are suitable wood. After impregnating PVA with an emulsion and finishing with a liquid (deep penetration) acrylic varnish, you don't have to think about durability: the larch piles, with which the coast of Vasilyevsky Island was reinforced during the reign of Peter the Great, are still standing. But boards or tiles for such a floor must be taken grooved and laid similarly to the ceiling, but with an indent from the walls of 20-25 mm for wood swelling. The gap before installing the skirting boards must be filled with polyurethane foam - there should be no cavities!

Wall covering

Most often, the walls of the bathroom are finished with tiles. Porcelain stoneware is also suitable, but it is still more expensive, and nothing is dropped or spilled on the walls; splashes don't count. Recently, the decoration of the bathroom with plastic panels, inexpensive and hygienic, has become widespread, but the description of materials for it and methods of work is the subject of a separate article.

Facing the walls with tiles is carried out with cutting the seams, for which, when laying tiles on glue, crosses are first inserted between the tiles. The laying technology itself is the same as for the floor. Holes are drilled in the tiles, which will fall on the outputs of pipes and electrical wiring, in advance with a diamond crown.

Note: if the design uses a mixer with decorative caps, then the crown is bought with a larger diameter than the pipes. Otherwise, measuring out the places for the holes is akin to jewelry art.

After the glue hardens, the corners are first sealed with silicone. A piece of electrical cable is placed on the silicone sausage through a thin plastic wrap, pressed and immediately removed. The silicone is pressed into the seam and forms a smooth concave surface. Leaks and slugs of silicone are removed with a rag and vinegar. Additionally, the fillet weld can be covered after cutting the rest with a decorative overlay on the same silicone.

Cutting the seams on a plane is carried out with a special compound - it is cheaper than silicone, but not a sealant. They take out the crosses, fill the seam, press with a piece of cable (now it is already possible without the film) and immediately, without delay, remove the remnants with flannel or microfiber. Cutting the seams with your finger will leave micro unevenness in which dirt will accumulate.

Plumbing, ventilation and electrical

The installation and installation of plumbing fixtures has no peculiarities and has been described many times. In particular, you have to:

  1. , sink, in some cases -.
  2. Optional - .

When installing ventilation, you should inspect the old box, removed in preparation for repair. In most cases, even the boxes of the very first Khrushchevs after cleaning and repainting are quite suitable for further use. In this case, it is immediately advisable to install a clapper valve in it: cold blowing in winter is excluded.

From stationary electrical appliances in the bathroom, an exhaust fan and a ceiling lamp in a waterproof design are acceptable. The fan must also be adapted to moisture: a three-core cord, with a protective conductor and a Euro plug, with a one-piece sealed (molded) lead into the casing. The washing machine does not apply to stationary electrical installations; its connection when installed in the bathroom -.

About "combined"

Repair of a bathroom combined with a toilet - what to do? Surely there are some nuances. Yes, there are enough features of repairing a combined bathroom. Therefore, their discussion is.

Output

Taking on the bathroom renovation on your own, you can save a lot: the event is expensive, and the wages of the workers make up a considerable part of the cost. But a lot can be miscalculated: the work is difficult, responsible, requires both basic knowledge and a good qualification of the builder.

Video: a lesson on self-repairing a bathroom

(1 estimates, average: 5,00 out of 5)

    Here the esteemed Vasily recommends the company, it's interesting. I have been in this business for 15 years, and I know for sure that the same guys as private traders work in the company, only they do not have a "rating", to put it simply. "Word of mouth recommends them badly." In the firms, however, mostly “state workers” work, who are not paid for the work done yet. And the insurance of your apartment in Moscow, and so on your receipt is listed and is worth a penny. Where did you find such a company and write its name, I do not think that the firms will work at a loss.

During the renovation in the bathroom, I hid all the pipes (polypropylene) in the wall and laid them with tiles, so I don't have any pipes in my bathroom. Already 4 years have passed, but there are no problems. but so much space was saved by the machine and the washbasin-"washbasin", and the bathtub are firmly pressed against the wall. The main thing is to buy quality material and do the job in good faith. and besides myself, I do not trust anyone.

And I had such an interesting story, I live in an apartment on the first floor, and naturally the basement is not big under my apartment. Well, the bathroom itself is not big, so I decided with my wife to put a shower stall in order to save a lot of space in the bathroom, but since the house is old, I decided to look into the basement, I had a constant feeling that we would fail, well, I went down to the basement and there the boards are rotten, the house is old, they had to change the floor and put iron beams. Everything seemed to go well.

We changed the battery in the bathroom, it is separate from the toilet. So it was very difficult to lay this pipe through the wall to the toilet. For some reason, the entire wall was bent and now it cannot be fixed. It would be easier, of course, to remove the wall and make a shared bathroom. Tiles, tiles in the bathroom are ideal for walls, even if one or two tiles have deteriorated, it could be restored.

In terms of the cost of materials and plumbing, the bathroom is perhaps the first among other areas of the apartment. Provided, of course, if you are doing major repairs here. Toilet, bath, mixer taps, shower - all this pours out a pretty penny. Plus to this - the complexity of the work. if you like. for example. hide water pipes in the wall. but instead of a new bath - cast iron or steel - you can insert into the old acrylic insert. the bathtub will look like new and keep warm well. The ceiling can be sheathed with plastic panels - it will be beautiful and aesthetically pleasing for years to come.

Hello, my husband and I bought a house and decided to start repairing the toilet. We changed all the plumbing to plastic. The pipes that turned out to be hidden under the tiles were hidden, and the sewers, then they made a box from the lining and hid, since no one from the neighbors wanted to change the sewers, they said everything was fine with them. Everything turned out beautifully, neatly. With a new bathroom, plumbing.

I have a separate bathroom and in my opinion it is very convenient when the family is large. Both in the bathroom and in the toilet there are tiles on the walls and floor. Glued very neatly without seams. I have never heard of such a technique before. It turned out awesome! But I chose glossy tiles - they are easily soiled. But after cleaning it looks gorgeous! Our technology is not expensive, but durable - it suits us.

We somehow also had to tinker with repairs in the bathroom. Although it can be called a renovation with a big stretch ... The fact is that at that time we lived in a rented apartment, to put it mildly, with not very good repair. They decided to change the bath - the old one was in a terrible state. I sent my husband for a new one, but inexpensive. Bought. I brought it. Italian. I'm shocked. She's low-low! Straight almost knee-deep to me! Like a bidet, just a big, honest word! I had to think about how to lift it. They came up with it) We made a “layer cake” from fiberboard plates and polyurethane foam lying around in the apartment, and laid it one by one. And then they just put a bath on them. Of course, the design still had a look, but it became convenient to use the bathroom. For temporary housing - a great option. Then I also had to clean the sink so that the washing machine could fit. But there were no problems with this.

I was doing renovations in the bathroom. Hired specialists to install tiles on both walls and floors. I am extremely dissatisfied because the tiles were not laid evenly! And remodeling is expensive! Especially not evenly on the walls, but because of the dark color of the tiles, all the jambs are visible. A combined bathroom is more convenient for me than a separate one. And I replaced the bathtub with a shower stall - now the room has become more spacious!

Bathroom renovation is not easy. We tore down completely the old floor, right down to the concrete, because we installed pipes for heating, so that there would be a warm floor. This is not an easy task, but it is worth it, there is much more warmth in the apartment and you can sit on the tiles. My daughter constantly plays on the floor, so a warm floor is an even greater plus. By the way, we have such a floor in the corridor, bathroom, toilet and kitchen. Plus, the bathroom and toilet were combined, because there was no place at all.

In general, we left a different bathroom and toilet in exactly the same Khrushchev to our parents. There are two parents, cramped, yes, but who needs to go to the toilet, and who needs to wash. When repairing the toilet, a box in the form of a useful pedestal with a removable hatch cover was installed on pipes with water meters to view the readings. And they also made a small corner sink with a shower-bidet, although the door now has to be opened outward, everything is at hand.

We bought an apartment - Khrushchev. Bath and toilet are separate, but so large that claustrophobia began. They destroyed the wall, combined it. Now we have a bathtub of as much as 3.6 sq.m. Hands would be beaten off by the one who designed such housing. The tub was removed and replaced with a shower stall. Thanks to this, it became possible to put both the sink and the washing machine, and there was also room left.

Renovated the entire apartment last summer, including the bathroom. The biggest costs were spent on bathroom renovations. Despite his wife’s persuasions, he himself made a frame for a built-in sink and a washing machine, sheathed the frame with moisture-resistant plasterboard, pasted over tiles in a mosaic on all sides. Relatives are generally delighted with the result!

In our case of repair, the most difficult thing was, oddly enough, dismantling the old plumbing. Making repairs did not cease to be amazed at the club-handedness of the builders of the house - not a single even corner, everything is kept on parole. And in the combined bathroom, the toilet was installed so tightly that the day was killed to dismantle it. Well, after dismantling, it took as much leveling solution as it did not go to the kitchen to level the floor!

Renovated the bathroom to my parents. We changed the pipes to plastic. The pipes were sheathed with moisture-resistant plasterboard, and then tiles were laid in 2 colors. It turned out just super. A shelf has formed above the box, I don't know how they used to do without it.

I made repairs at myself two months ago. I decided to combine a bathtub and a toilet, make a "combination", and hide the water mixer from the wall. I have already prepared everything, even a German special mixer ordered to be built into the wall. And only later I learned that no niches could be made according to the project of the house! Okay, I still managed to give up the mixer, otherwise I would have ended up ...

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