Artificial stones have been produced for a long time. The substance is a frozen mixture of certain materials. The same brick or mortar can also be classified as artificial. However, in this article we will talk about artificial stones, which have found application in home decoration and landscape design. In the article you will also learn the process of making such materials at home, as well as the technology for creating stones with your own hands.

Artificial stones - what is their advantage

Some people ask a completely reasonable question: why create artificial stones when nature has already created real masterpieces in the wild. There is a certain logic, but when comparing two types of stones - artificial and natural, you can see that natural material is very expensive. Not everyone is able to purchase such stones to decorate a house or adjacent area. In addition, the stone is very fragile, so there are big problems with cutting it. If left in its original form, it will place too much stress on the walls and ceilings due to its enormous weight.

Such problems will not arise if you try to make artificial stone with your own hands or purchase such material at a hardware store. Mechanical properties, quality, durability, appearance - in all these indicators, imitation is in no way inferior to its natural analogue. There are several other important advantages:

• The stone is available in various designs, including in the form of thin small tiles that have a high level of strength but do not put pressure on the walls;
• You can produce such materials directly on your own site, which eliminates the need to spend extra money on transporting finished products;
• A huge number of surface textures and color shades. To create stone, you can use various formworks and other forms so that the result looks beautiful and original;
• Depending on the manufacturing methods, artificial stone can be smooth and shiny, resulting in no need for grinding and polishing;
• The shape of the artificial stone can be absolutely any, it all depends on your imagination and imagination.

If you put natural and handicraft stones side by side, an ordinary person will not even be able to tell the difference. Thanks to modern technologies, it is possible to create stones at home, taking into account all the features of natural analogues, avoiding all their disadvantages, preserving only their positive qualities. The surface can be absolutely anything, for example, arbitrarily decorative, represent a cut of sawn mineral, and also imitate uneven edges in the form of chips.

Classification of artificial stones - their main varieties

The production of artificial stones is carried out in a variety of ways. Depending on this, as well as on the source materials on the basis of which the material is prepared, the following types of stones are distinguished:

• Ceramic stone. The base is ordinary clay, which undergoes heat treatment at high temperatures. It is quite difficult to obtain such a stone at home, since it requires specially trained personnel, a large amount of energy, as well as large areas for work;
• Gypsum stone. Excellent for creating at home using the casting method, due to the low cost of raw materials and the processing process itself. The only limitation is that gypsum stone can be used exclusively in interior spaces, since low temperatures have a destructive effect on the structure of the material;
• Concrete molded stone. This option is also suitable for home production. In addition, it has increased resistance characteristics to high and low temperatures. The disadvantage is the high cost - concrete forms fail quite quickly, which requires their regular replacement;
• Polyester stone. This type of artificial stone boasts remarkable decorative and mechanical qualities, in no way inferior to natural stones. However, you won’t be able to do it yourself, which is due to the complexity of the technological process. The binder is processed with polymers only at very high temperatures under absolute vacuum conditions;
• Acrylic stone. A very popular option along with gypsum stones, since you can make it yourself at minimal cost. Important advantages include the complete absence of pores, as well as a high level of chemical resistance, resulting in excellent sanitation and hygiene. The casting method allows you to create very durable and strong materials of any thickness at home, which are even suitable for use as stone wallpaper.

The main reason that forces you to make a solution and subsequently produce artificial stones at home is the low cost of the finished product. Even though the price of the product is significantly lower than natural stones, such financial costs are still unacceptable for many. If you have sufficient skills, knowledge, experience and tools, you can relatively inexpensively make exactly the kind of stone that is best suited for you for finishing walls and other surfaces of any area.

We make stones at home - what we need

The entire process of preparing stones includes several stages, each of which we will discuss in detail. Among the main stages, we should highlight the creation of models of stones, the preparation of a linear form, the mixing of the finished mixture with its subsequent molding, as well as the addition of pigments or dyes if necessary.

Naturally, creating high-quality artificial stone without the appropriate equipment is an impossible task. To implement our plans, you will need the following list of tools and devices:

1. 1. Vibration stand. This is the main equipment, the heart and brain of the entire process. Competent and correct work with the stand has a direct impact on the quality and strength characteristics of the final product. Due to its design features, homogeneity of the solution is achieved for its subsequent polymerization. This equipment can be purchased at the store, but you can also assemble the table manually if you want to save money.
2. 2. Models of casting molds. If you do not have ready-made products for molding, then you will not be able to do without models.
3. 3. Release agent. A special substance applied to the inner surface of the mold, as well as to the model itself during the manufacture of the mold. As the name suggests, the mixture provides separation of materials, preventing them from sticking to each other.
4. 4. Casting molds. It is in these forms that the solution will be present during its polymerization. There is no point in saving on molds, since cheap plastic products will cause unsightly stones, the shape of which will differ dramatically from your expectations. In addition, after just a few stages of pouring the solution, low-quality forms can simply break. Preference should be given to polyurethane products, as well as silicone molds, which boast reliability, durability and durability.
5. 5. Foundry mixtures. The composition from which an artificial stone will later be made, which we will discuss in more detail below.
6. 6. Coloring pigments. Required in cases where you want to give artificial stone a color that most accurately imitates natural minerals.
7. 7. Sand pillow. The need for this device is due to the protection of casting molds from damage and deformation that occurs during the manufacture of artificial stones.
8. 8. A heating device, for example, a hair dryer or a heat gun. Due to the strong and hot air jet, it is able to weld finished acrylic elements.

Models for creating stones - the correct technology for creating them

Various options can be used as models for creating casting molds. So, ordinary natural stones of appropriate sizes and shapes are suitable, but you can purchase several blanks in the store. However, regardless of the chosen option, the range of shapes and surface reliefs will be seriously limited. The way out of the situation is very simple - it’s ordinary clay, which is an almost endless material for creating unusual and unique models. Moreover, it’s material that you don’t have to pay for.

Unlike other natural substances that could be used for similar purposes, working with clay does not require any additional permits. Clay is initially suitable for creating models; there is no need to perform analyzes for fat content and the content of any impurities.

It is required to assemble a special grille consisting of strips of thin and smooth plastic. The height of the grate depends on several factors, including the source material from which the stone is made. So, for clay with stucco, you will need a grid with a height of up to 40 mm, for acrylic stones made of liquid clay the height will be no more than 3 mm, and for gypsum and concrete substances this figure is in the range from 6 to 12 mm.

In general, a flat panel is used, which is rolled with PVC film. We will subsequently place a grid on this shield, each of the cells of which will be filled with clay or any other solution. Experts advise placing grilles in places protected from direct sunlight. After all, the sun can damage the surface texture of finished products, since the rays lead to the appearance of numerous cracks and chips. If a low grid is selected, then the solution is poured into it almost to the top. This will provide a unique and natural texture after complete drying. For a high grid, the filling level of the composition is adjusted based on the required height or thickness of the finished product.

Finally, we note that the master can independently change the surface relief of stones, creating various unusual signs, runes or even hieroglyphs. In any case, drying of artificial stones should be carried out in a dry place, where, as already indicated, there is no direct sunlight. As practice shows, it may take up to five days depending on the level of humidity and temperature.

To speed up the drying process, you can use additional tools, for example, an infrared lamp with a power of up to 200 W. The lamp should be placed at a distance of about two meters. This matters because being too close can cause the same effect as the sun, causing the stone to become covered in a network of cracks. And a lamp that hangs too far away will not have any positive effect at all.

Creating homemade forms - how to do it correctly

When creating artificial stones with your own hands, it is recommended to use silicone molds, which you can also construct without any problems. We need a straight, flat surface covered with film. We lay out any number of models on this film and surround it with a side that is approximately 2 cm above the level of the outer surface of the model. In addition, we will need some additional substances, for example, grease or similar fatty lubricants, with which we will lubricate the model itself, as well as the inside of the fence.

The shield assembled in this way, which must be placed in a strictly horizontal order, will be used in the future as a bottom for the casting mold.

The next stage of work involves filling the shield with acidic silicone. As a rule, such substances have a characteristic unpleasant odor of vinegar. Silicone is squeezed directly from a can or tube onto a casting model. You should start from the middle of the side, filling the silicone in a spiral. If necessary, the silicone should be smeared with a flute brush to prevent bubbles. To maximize the effect, dip the brush in a specially diluted solution, preferably from a dishwashing detergent. Soap diluted in water will not help us, since the alkali it contains has a negative effect on silicone.

That's basically all. When the silicone solution completely fills the cells, use a metal spatula to carefully smooth the surface, not forgetting to wet the spatula in the same solution that we made for dipping the brush. Leave the mold in a dry place for several days.

This time, an infrared lamp will not help us, but if you want to speed up the drying process, you can achieve the effect using a fan, since ventilation significantly increases the drying speed of the silicone. Finally, we note that the finished product will serve in the manufacture of artificial stones for a very long time. So, if everything was done correctly, the resource will be more than a hundred castings.

Mixtures for stones - proportions and ratios of materials

In order for artificial stones made at home to meet your requirements and expectations in terms of beauty, quality and durability, it is necessary to mix the mixtures in the correct proportions. If we talk about concrete stones, then its base is a mixture of sand and cement. In this case, three shares of cement should be added to one share of sand. If polymer additives or mineral dyes are added, their weight should not exceed 6 percent of the weight of the finished product.

With stones for the production of which gypsum is used, the situation is somewhat different. The solution includes elements such as gypsum itself, as well as water with a volume of about 80 percent of the volume of gypsum. That is, the ratio is almost one to one. In addition to these components, you will need to add 0.3% citric acid. The mass of pigments remains the same - up to 6 percent of the mass of the entire mixture.

It should be noted that the gypsum solution can only be stored for 10 minutes, after which it loses its performance characteristics. In this regard, it is necessary to prepare small portions, otherwise most of the mixture will be hopelessly spoiled.

It is impossible not to talk about acrylic stones, which are very popular and in demand. The material is created from a hardener and acrylic resin, and the ratio is one to three, respectively. The hardener includes mineral pigments, as well as various fillers, including screenings, stone chips or regular gravel. It should be noted that to increase the strength of the stone, gravel or stone chips will need to be added as much as possible, but this will negatively affect the elasticity of the product.

The recipe for producing acrylic stone is very simple. To begin with, the filler is thoroughly washed in any detergent, then washed in clean water, calcined and put into clean water again. After this, all that remains is to introduce the dye into the filler, mix and add acrylic resin with thorough stirring until the mixture has a homogeneous consistency. The solution may be usable within 20 minutes of being created, so again you will need to prepare small portions of the mixture.

You can use a wide variety of pigments, which are divided into mineral, synthetic, powder, liquid and many others. The type of each specific pigment depends on the mixture and the starting materials used. For example, liquid fillers should be added only when mixing the solution, while powdered pigment is excellent for adding to a dry mixture. Some pigments are available in the form of a thick paste-like substance. By adding this dye with a syringe at the very end, you can achieve a spotted or striped color of the stone.

Finally, we note that the choice of material for artificial stone is also determined by the finishing requirements. For example, acrylic materials are best suited for interior decoration, and durable concrete stone, characterized by excellent moisture-resistant properties, will be an ideal option for external walls and ceilings.

The use of stone in interior design is an aesthetic technique for creating a special atmosphere. However, for many reasons, natural stone is not as practical to use as artificial stone. The latter is of high quality and can be made even at home. Artificial stone is not so heavy, expensive and there is no need to worry about its delivery from the mining site. A wide variety of shapes and textures makes it possible to embody any design ideas.

Facing stone panels are made in several main ways:

• cement-based;
• gypsum based;
• based on polymer materials.

In order to choose between these options, you can proceed from what this stone will be used for or from the available materials.

It is better not to use gypsum stone panels for exterior decoration because they will absorb water and deteriorate.

And for flooring, sidewalk paths, steps, and terraces, it is better to use cement stones.

To make stone panels you will need a special mold, which can be purchased at a hardware store. It is silicone and gives the material the shape and texture of stone. These shapes imitate different types of stone, so you can choose the one that best suits your design idea. In addition, you will need:

• drill with mixer attachment;
• brushes, large spatula;
• grease;
• coloring pigments;
• raw materials for mixing the solution.

There is a wide variety of dry dyes for stone on the market: yellow, brown, red, all shades of ocher, the natural color of red brick, and the like.

Silicone molds

It can be purchased at a hardware store, or you can make it yourself. For this you will need:

• silicone;
• solid base;
• sample stone;
• soap solution;
• a solid box, or other available materials that will serve as formwork;
• solid oil

First you need to install the form. Its edges should be higher in height than the stone. A thick layer of grease should be applied to all internal surfaces of the mold and to the stone samples.

Place stones at the bottom. Pour in silicone. It needs to be leveled with a regular paint brush, and at the very end - with a spatula. The brush and spatula should be moistened in a soapy solution.

The form will dry for 15 days. After this, the box can be disassembled and the finished form taken out.

Soap solution can be replaced with dishwashing detergent, for example Fairy .

Cement stone

Cement-based stone is used for interior and exterior decoration. For optimal strength, the cement to sand ratio should be 3:1. Expanded clay sand is also used, and for sidewalk paths or steps the stone is made with the addition of crushed stone.

Drying should take place in a dry, warm room with good ventilation, but not in bright sun.

After 12-14 days, the model will acquire the strength of stone.

7. Rinse the mold and begin making the next batch.

A video on making cement-based artificial stone can be viewed here:

The video describes the technology of making stone with dry coloring pigment, which is applied directly to the mold.

Gypsum stone

Gypsum stone is made in the same way as cement stone, but with some differences.

From the second or third time, you usually manage to adapt to your shape and calculate the required amount of materials for kneading so that there is enough for exactly one time without any leftovers.

In the given manufacturing method, proportions and combinations of materials are given in which you can make your own personal improvements. The ratio of water and gypsum is determined experimentally. Also, for gypsum stone there is no need to lay a reinforcing mesh.

To make the stone stronger, you can add slaked lime to the forming mixture (a sixth of the total volume).

Necessary:

• 5 kg. gypsum GVVS16;
• 1.5 kg. coarse sand;
• 2 l. water;
• coloring pigments, approximately 50 ml, yellow and brown, but there should be more brown;
• 400 ml. water mixed with a pinch of citric acid;
• acrylic varnish on stone;
• form.

Add coloring pigments to the water in the desired proportions and pour in the water and acid. Citric acid somewhat slows down the rapid crystallization process of gypsum. Mix sand with gypsum. Combine liquid and bulk ingredients. Mix the finished mixture thoroughly. Place the silicone mold on a hard tray, this will help shake the mold. Dry pigment can be used to tint selected areas directly in the mold. Then, without delay, pour the mixture into the mold until it is half full. Using light vibration, distribute the solution over the mold. Add the rest of the solution, spread and smooth it with a spatula. The sides of the mold between the individual stones must be clean so that the finished casts can be easily separated from each other.

The plaster hardens quickly, after about 30 minutes you can separate the stones from the mold. To be sure, you can knock on the tiles; if they ring, it means they have already frozen, if not, then you can wait a little longer. To get the impressions, you need to cover the mold with a sheet of plywood of the same size, turn everything over and remove the silicone mold. Another way is to cover the mold with corrugated glass immediately after pouring. It releases freely from the plaster and is used like plywood to reach the stones.

The casts are tinted with a cloth soaked in primer and pigment to create shadows. The final layer is acrylic varnish for stone, but it can be applied after all the tiles have been installed on the surface.

Tile adhesive stone

This method is an example of improvisation with different materials for making artificial stone. The choice of textures, shades and shapes of stone is very large.

Materials: Litokol tile adhesive, black grout, coloring pigment and sea salt.

1. Mark the boundaries of each individual stone. They can be the same in size and shape or different.
2. Remove the film and leave the raw material to dry for 12 hours.
3. After this, the stones are separated from each other and final processing is carried out. If a relief with chips is required, you need to wash the salt with water. If it is better to leave small grains, then the surface of the stone is fixed with varnish.

A detailed video about making stone from gypsum can be viewed here:

The video shows all the proportions of the materials used. Colors for painting stone can be mixed in
arbitrary proportions or not to use them at all in the initial stages, but to give the stone the desired color at the final stages of processing.

Giving the desired color can also be done on a ready-made stone. To do this you need to use special paint. The surface of the stone is cleaned of dust and wiped with a dry cloth. After this, paint is applied. If necessary, a second and third layer can be applied, but each new layer can be applied only after the previous one has dried.

Installation

Installation of artificial stone panels is very simple. The beauty of the stone on the wall will depend on how carefully the work is done and how the individual stone tiles are arranged. Installation is carried out as follows.

Gypsum stone panels are lighter than cement panels and will adhere firmly to glue, but heavy cement panels must be laid on a specially prepared surface.

First, the desired area is strengthened with paint mesh and plaster. A cement adhesive mortar is applied to such a surface and spread with a notched trowel. Stones are being installed.

1. The edge cut of the stone is easily formed using cutting tools, which is necessary for the beautiful design of local areas with stone panels.

When installing the panels, it is important to ensure that the material on which the stone is glued does not get on its outer part, because it will be very difficult to remove.

After laying the stone, remaining chips or small cracks are eliminated using an airbrush, which consists of calibrating paste, water and acrylic varnish.

Before starting installation, it is important to choose a fastening method that will match both the surface and the type of stone. If the surface is wooden, then it is necessary to make moisture insulation and sheathing. If the wall is brick or concrete, then simply level the surface.

If the stones are laid with gaps between each other, this distance should not exceed 2.5 cm. And the seams are treated with grout.

Step by Step Actions

The process of making stone is quite simple and affordable. Depending on the materials, the technology may differ slightly, but the following algorithm of actions remains unchanged:

• preparation of the workplace and necessary equipment;
• selection and preparation of the form;
• mixing the solution;
• pouring into the mold and distributing the mixture;
• releasing the cast from the mold;
• cleaning the mold;
• grinding, finishing and painting of stone;
• preparing a wall or other area for installation;
• installation of stone slabs;
• finishing of the finished wall.

Artificial stone is a great way to create an exclusive design for the interior or exterior of your home. The wealth of colors and materials leaves room for experimentation and embodiment of your ideas.

Natural stones have always been the favorite material of most landscape designers and country property owners who want to give their garden area more exclusivity and style. However, natural granite, sandstone, slate or lemezite, which are most often used for cladding, are expensive and heavy.

Fortunately, today it is not necessary to buy expensive material, because almost anyone can make an artificial stone with their own hands, fortunately, there are many methods for making such decorative elements and they all begin with creating a form.

Matrix for artificial stone

Of course, a ready-made kit for creating decorative products can be found in the store, but since we are talking about making artificial stone with our own hands, we will not take the simple route and consider producing a mold from scratch.

Healthy! You should not buy cheap plastic dies, as they will break after the first workpiece.

To do this, you will need formwork; a box made of plywood or an ordinary box is suitable for it. Its size should exceed the finished sample by 10-15 mm in width and 25-30 mm in height. If you plan to create small artificial stones with your own hands, then an ordinary juice box will suffice.

When the formwork is prepared, it’s time to move on to pouring it, so that in the future you will have a finished form. Most often, silicone or compound is used to create it.

Silicone

Silicone sealant is the most accessible and cheapest material for making molds, which has excellent technical characteristics. It is sold both in tubes and in buckets; all that remains is to decide on the dimensions of the products.

To make silicone molds for artificial stone with your own hands you will need:

• Apply any type of grease to the inner walls of the formwork (solid oil will also work).
• Place the original sample on the bottom of the box, the shape of which is most suitable for the future “creation”. It could be granite, wood, or any object at all.
• Lubricate the “source” with a greasy substance to make it easier to remove from the formwork.
• Prepare a soap solution (dishwashing detergent will also work) and soak the brushes that will be used to apply the silicone in it.
• Fill the formwork with material and level it with a spatula, which must also be pre-moistened in soap.
• Wait until the composition hardens.

Important! If you use ready-made gypsum stone as a starting sample, then before work you must cover it with several layers of drying oil or varnish.

The intensity of silicone polymerization depends on how much material was poured into the formwork. Typically, sealants harden at a rate of 2 mm per day, therefore, if you want to make artificial stone of large dimensions, then you should not rush to remove the matrix from the formwork.

After the mold has completely hardened, it can be removed from the box and thoroughly washed to remove grease.

Compound

When deciding how to make an artificial stone, some give preference to specialized compounds used to create casting matrices.

Polyurethane compounds consist of two components, so the finished products are more durable and have better physical properties. Professionals often use such compositions for casting plaster parts for sculptures.

To prepare a “template” of artificial stone at home from a compound:

• Treat the model and formwork twice with wax, previously dissolved in white spirit or a specialized separating compound. Each layer of the composition should dry well for 25-30 minutes.
• Mix the components of the compound (paste and hardener) in a ratio of 2:1. Be sure to follow the exact proportions, otherwise the mixture will be uneven and harden unevenly.
• Carefully pour the prepared mixture into the box with the sample so that there is about 7-10 mm of liquid above the highest point of the model.
• Get rid of any air bubbles that may have formed during the mixing process. To do this, shake the box a little, wait 5-10 minutes and remove any bubbles that pop up with a spatula.

Healthy! To ensure that the components of the liquid are well mixed, it is recommended to use an electric drill with a mixer attachment.

The hardening time of the compound is 24 hours, regardless of its volume, but it is better to wait two days so that all the properties of the material are fully activated. After this, the base of the future stone can be poured into the “bowl”.

What to make artificial stone from

The composition of an artificial element can include a wide variety of materials, and their choice depends on the type of finishing for which the decorative element is made.

Cement (exterior finish)

For the base, artificial stone is usually made from cement mortar, which may also contain sand, fine gravel, stone chips and other components that give the finished product relief and a more natural structure.

To get a stone from cement you will need to follow several steps:

• Prepare a homogeneous sand-cement mixture in a ratio of 1:3.
• Pour half of the cement mixture into the matrix and compact it. To do this, simply knock on the walls of the box and shake it for 1 minute.
• Lay a metal mesh over the hardening material, which will give the future product more strength.
• Fill the matrix with the second layer to the top and run it with a thin stick or nail (the resulting grooves will improve adhesion).

The finished stone can be removed after 12 hours, but after this it is recommended to leave it for two weeks in a dry place so that it hardens completely.

Healthy! After each fill, be sure to thoroughly rinse the matrix.

This is a fairly simple method that does not require the use of specialized and expensive equipment.

Plaster (interior finishing)

For the manufacture of materials when finishing the interior walls of a house, it is worth giving preference to mixtures based on gypsum or alabaster. These materials are suitable if you need artificial brick for interior decoration or other decorative elements that imitate natural rocky surfaces.

To make gypsum stone:

• Prepare a mixture of gypsum G5 - G7, citric acid with a volume of 0.3% by weight of gypsum and water (60-70% of the volume of the base). It is also recommended to add 10% sand, which will make the composition stronger.
• Lubricate the matrix with wax, pour liquid gypsum into it and level it with a spatula.
• Place the corrugated glass on the surface of the gypsum material for 20 minutes so that the mixture is better compacted.
• Remove the mold and leave the homemade product outdoors until completely dry.

Despite the fact that this is a fairly simple way to create, for example, an artificial stone like a brick, it is worth noting the properties of gypsum. The fact is that this material hardens very quickly, so you should not prepare the mixture “for future use.” Although citric acid has properties that slow down this process, check several times that you have prepared everything you need for work and you will not have to leave.

In addition, there is modern technology for manufacturing artificial stone from polymer materials. Such products are suitable for both external cladding and interior decoration.

Acrylic

Decorating the facades and interior of a house with acrylic elements has a certain advantage - decorative products can be made in a matter of hours. But to obtain the desired consistency of the synthetic material, you will need the following components:

• acrylic resin (25%);
• filler or composite material (70%)
• hardener (2-5%).

After this, perform several “manipulations”:

• Mix all ingredients until smooth.
• Use a lubricant on the mold as acrylic is very sticky.
• Pour the mixture into the matrix.
• Leave the product to dry at a temperature of +25 degrees for 2 hours.
• Remove the finished stone.

Healthy! Acrylic is best suited for creating artificial marble with your own hands and other “noble” types.

After this, all that remains is to paint the artificial stones and decide where they will be placed.

Painting decorative stone

There are two ways to get colored stone. You can apply paint to a finished product, but in this case it will look less natural and will quickly fade.

It is best to add a coloring pigment during the process of pouring the material into the matrix. Moreover, this should not be a standard color that is used for walls, but an iron oxide inorganic dye.

Healthy! The best dyes that mix well with the solution are produced by a German companyHermannTerHell.

Before painting the future artificial stone, lubricate the matrix with pigment. Thanks to this, the color of the product will be heterogeneous and, accordingly, more realistic. It is also necessary to add coloring matter to the mixture during its preparation. Usually the pigment dosage is selected in the store, but if you do not have the opportunity to consult, then use:

• 2-6% by weight of the solution if you are using gypsum.
• 2-3% for cement.

In order not to “miss” with the desired shade, it is best to make a test pebble and only then do the main batch.

In custody

Making artificial marble, bricks and other decorative products does not take much time and does not require special preparation. By following the recommendations given in the article, everyone will be able to create unique elements that will decorate their garden plot and home.

People have been able to give various surfaces a stone-like appearance since ancient times. In his description of the restoration of the burnt Winter Palace, Bashutsky mentions the marble-like plaster used in the royal mansions. Petersburg was built quickly, even royalty lived in palaces decorated with “fake” marble and granite. Stone-look surfaces are especially popular today. They are monumental, varied, interesting in the interior and landscape of any style. Do-it-yourself decorative plaster to look like stone is a task that can be easily accomplished even for beginners.

Imitation methods

There are many ways to create a rock-like surface.

The main ones in application are:

1. use of hanging plastic panels for wall decoration,
2. wall cladding with gypsum or cement relief tiles,
3. creating a dummy cover from foam plastic,
4. formation of masonry or decorative layer from mortar.

Stone decor with an individual design can be created using plaster mortars (in the old-fashioned way, stucco).

Imitation of stone on the wall - torn rock, masonry, processed solid marble, malachite, sandstone or granite - is created using artistic methods or using various prints. Different techniques for simulating stone textures provide different depths of elaboration of the design.

The following techniques exist:

• flat with a coating layer thickness close to 1 mm (),
• textured, having a rough surface (, etc.),
• flat-relief in which the seams of the masonry are barely deepened,
• convex in the form of three-dimensional masonry, otherwise called 3d.

Main components of the plaster composition

Decorative coating with a stone appearance is made using plaster mortar.

It, like other plaster solutions, contains:

• Binders – acrylic resins, cement, silicate (organosilicon), gypsum, silicone resins, lime;
• Fillers – calibrated stone chips and/or flour of various rocks, quartz sand;
• Dyes – mineral, synthetic or organic pigments;
• Plasticizers – PVA, soap solution, soap naft, etc.;
• Additives to impart the desired properties, for example, frost resistance, resistance to fungus, mold, accelerated or delayed setting of binders (soap, animal glue), increased water resistance, greater decorativeness (mica chips, mother of pearl).

If you wish, you can purchase a ready-to-use composition, or you can create a mixture and prepare the plaster yourself.

Preparation of the composition

If the decorative mixture is purchased in a store in dry form, it must be diluted with water. Pour the composition into a container with water (¼ volume of dry matter) and then mix it with a drill with an attachment. This must be done exactly according to the instructions. The finished mixture should have a uniform consistency without foreign inclusions or lumps. After a ten-minute break, the mixture is stirred again. It should be so thick that it does not spread when applying a layer and is easy to apply. Immediately after the second stirring, the mixture is ready for use.

How to prepare decorative compositions yourself

You can save money by not purchasing expensive ready-made materials. A few simple recipes from a variety of ingredients that you can prepare yourself:

1. By adding clean sand it is created. To do this, take 1.5-2 liter buckets of sand onto a putty bucket. The mixture is stirred with an electric mixer. If necessary, add water.
2. For exterior work or for finishing wet rooms (bathroom, etc.): 10 kg of lime, 10 kg of cement, 20 kg of sand, enough water to obtain the mass of the required consistency and 5% of the mass of the solution - liquid glass.
3. 20% lime paste, 74% marble sand, 5% Portland cement M400 (white), 1% manganese peroxide, the required amount of water.
4. 20% lime paste, 6% white cement M400, 4% pigment, 70% quartz sand.

The nuances of preparing stone plaster are as follows:

• mixing water can be running, but should not be below +10 C,
• to get lime paste from dry lime, you need to mix it with warm water 3:1, leave for a day,
• binders can be used in combination, for example, lime with cement, gypsum with lime.

By using homemade formulations, you can significantly reduce costs and create your own wild stone from start to finish.

Stone surface imitation technology

The main directions of “imitation” of nature and masons are:

1. creation of external surface texture (blocks, cobblestones or solid),
2. creating an external shape inherent in blocks, cobblestones, bricks or walls made of them,
3. use for coloring colors close to natural.

Equipment and tools

To perform the job correctly you may need:

• masking tape,
• sanding float,
• steel graters 20 and 25 cm,
• spatulas with rounded edges 6 cm and 20 cm,
• Master OK,
• Maklowitz and Fleitz brushes,
• coarse bristle brush,
• roller,
• rule
• sandpaper No. 120 and 220,
• bubble level,
• tape measure or long ruler,
• containers for solution,
• pencil
• measuring containers or scales,
• electric mixer,
• rags.

Don't forget about personal protective equipment! Gloves, respirator, special. clothes and shoes.

Preparing the base

Imitation of stone for interior decoration using plaster requires high-quality execution at any stage. Including in .

To ensure that the layer of decorative plaster lays evenly, adheres well and firmly to the base, and subsequently various dirty spots do not appear through the finishing, the surface of the base is prepared:

• it is cleaned of all mechanical contaminants;
• curved walls are leveled by plastering (use or);
• chips and cracks, large excavations are repaired with cement mortar and sand, using reinforcing mesh;
• if necessary, the base is treated with special degreasing or antiseptic agents;
• dried;
• primed for better adhesion (this is a particularly important step for smooth substrates, such as gypsum panels, fiberboard, etc.).

If decorative stone work is to be done, and the foundation/basement of the house is insulated, then a concrete “crust” is applied, reinforced with two layers of fiberglass mesh. The mesh is applied to a layer of spray 2 cm thick, the second one is placed on top of a spray of the same thickness on the first mesh. A final layer of 2.5-3 cm is thrown over the mesh.

For relief and semi-relief coatings, it is not necessary to level the surface to perfection. This finish will itself hide some imperfections.

Five ways to apply decorative plaster under stone

Types of stone imitation

Imitating stone from plaster using your own means is done using various techniques. There are more complex and simpler techniques that can be used to achieve a stone-effect finish.

Flat

This type includes decorative finishing finishes, in which the appearance of a polished stone slab is created by using colors on top of the layer or through the components of the finishing composition (multi-colored decorative mortars with stone flour). This is a kind of multi-layer plaster painting. These include Venetian stone plaster. For this purpose, plaster for interior work is used (with marble or other stone flour). To make the surface matte, walls that look like processed marble, onyx, malachite, etc. . They are polished to obtain gloss.

Plastering walls to look like stone:

• the base is brought to perfect evenness,
• covered with acrylic putty of a general basic tone,
• apply a decorative layer, doing this in stages (strokes of different colors are applied alternately) or simultaneously (mass of different shades are applied to the edge of the main tool), after which they are stretched along the wall, achieving uneven mixing),
• smooth out uneven surfaces with a trowel after setting begins, achieving maximum flatness of the decorative coating,
• covered with wax,
• polish with a grinder with a soft nozzle.

Textured

These finishes include flat surfaces with small indentations that imitate the appearance of a rough stone surface. The textured finish may have a small decorative pattern or rather convex areas. For example, finishing such as travertine or Roman stone can be done in two ways:

• continuous, in which a uniform layer is formed, decorated after partial drying (using tingling touches of a brush, dishwashing sponge, etc.),
• partial, in which the underlying layer is made even, and the proper one is applied partially (with chaotic strokes), without completely covering the underlying layer.

Textured finishes also include decorative stone finishes that imitate facing with stone slabs or masonry with a shallow depth of grooves applied with a sharp tool.

Flat-relief

The next deepest relief layer elaboration technique is suitable for simulating masonry made of blocks, bricks or flat stone tiles. In this case, the recesses imitating seams do not exceed the thickness of the layer, and the texture of individual blocks is set in very fine relief. An example of such a technique is one performed with special silicone molds, or in which a decorative stone from ordinary gypsum plaster is obtained by creating a grid of shallow seams.

In the convex technique, the foundation is finished with plaster that imitates cobblestone masonry. In this technique, the relief height is more than 1 cm.

Imitation with prints: description + video

Due to the large surface area that needs to be given the required appearance, stone imitation is done using molds (also known as a matrix). Imitation is carried out according to a template. This is the easiest DIY stone wall decoration.

How to make an imitation:

• apply a layer of plaster to the base,
• moisten the mold with water to prevent the mortar from sticking to its surface,
• press the mold into the freshly laid solution and carefully remove,
• eliminate deformations or minor distortions with a spatula, knife or hand.

Wild stone plaster made in this way has a very realistic appearance. Its manufacture does not require special experience or a lot of time. If a large piece of mortar has been removed along with the form, the mixture is thrown onto the wall again, the form is cleaned, washed and pressed in again.

DIY plaster stone

The technology here is very simple. The only difficulty is the drawing process.

• Prepare the solution
• Apply the solution to the wall - you can apply it by hand, leveling it very roughly
• Use a knife, chisel, palette knife or other suitable tool to create a pattern of masonry
• Go over the resulting seams with a brush to remove tool marks and make the surface natural
• Smooth the surface, give it a natural look by using a sponge or a lint roller.
• Paint the resulting masonry

In addition to the paint itself, to give an interesting texture, you can use colored sand and other bulk mineral components (crumbs of granite, marble, etc.)

Video. Do-it-yourself plaster to look like natural stone.

What mistakes to avoid

1. Various pellets and roughness only spoil the marbled finish, give it a sloppy appearance and give off a completely unprofessional appearance. It is better to remove them during the work process, without delay.
2. Artificial stone with its forms does not have to have a perfect appearance, as, for example, in the amazing masonry in Cusco. It is even advisable to make the depressions between the blocks of different widths and depths.
3. Walls with brickwork are characterized by a strict horizontal direction of the rows. The same rule is followed when imitating block masonry.
4. The plaster, the imitation of stone, can be of any composition. Decorative techniques can make it stone-like. But the shape of cobblestones or blocks must certainly have a natural appearance. Scale relief does not exist in nature or in masonry. This is a gross mistake that should not be made.

As a rule, such work is done with your own hands for yourself, so shortcomings and some mistakes are forgivable.

Application area

Surfaces with a pronounced relief of stone plaster, imitating hewn or rubble masonry, are more suitable for outdoor work - designing a foundation, facade, gazebo or fence. You can use imitation masonry in spacious rooms. But for small spaces such decorative finishing is not suitable, as it visually hides the size of the room and makes it heavier.

Despite all of the above, sometimes such finishing is used inside rooms.

Advantages of artificial masonry

The main advantages of this decor are:

1. Unlimited possibilities for creating the desired texture and shape,
2. Original design,
3. Can be applied to any base
4. Light finishing weight,
5. Fire resistance,
6. Ease of manufacture,
7. Relatively low cost,
8. Long-term operation.

The article provides information on how to make decorative stone plaster in the form of masonry or a marble monolith with your own hands using various techniques. Using simple technologies, you can easily make the wall of your house marble with your own hands, and decorate the base, gazebo or fence to resemble an ancient wall made of cobblestones or granite blocks. The main thing is to start. An exciting activity will make work joyful and your home unique.

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How to make artificial stone with your own hands

Have you decided to cladding your façade beautifully, quickly and inexpensively? In this case, artificial stone is exactly what you need. By the way, the result of finishing work can be made even more affordable, because you don’t have to buy artificial stone, but make it yourself at home. In this article I will talk about what artificial stone is, how and what to make it from, so that it does not differ in appearance from purchased products.

General information about finishing materials and production technology

Finished masonry of stone or brick houses looks great, but, unfortunately, not everyone can afford such construction. Installation of artificial stone allows you to make an ordinary concrete wall that looks like stone or brick.

Artificial stone is a type of finishing tile, and therefore the cost of finishing with such material will be cheaper than building and using natural stone.

Cladding stone can be purchased at most hardware stores. But the same material is easy to make yourself. To do this, you will need a mold, a liquid base that can be poured into the mold, and paint and varnish materials with which you can paint the finished product.

What to make facade tiles from

To make artificial facing stone with your own hands, casting materials with a semi-liquid or viscous consistency are used. The material is poured into an elastic mold and hardens there for a certain time, gaining the necessary strength.

The problem is that not every mixture is suitable for pouring into a mold. A suitable material must be resistant to cracking, must set quickly, and must completely fill the mold without forming voids or seals.

Which mixtures meet these requirements?

Cement-sand mixture TsPS. This is a traditional mortar, the composition of which is supplemented with silicate adhesive “liquid glass” for greater strength and weather resistance.

Ingredients:

• Cement M500 -1 part of the total volume;
• Sown river sand – 3 parts;
• Water – 4 parts of the total volume;
• Liquid glass - added when mixing the solution at the rate of 0.5 liters per 10 liters of mixture.

Advantages:

• Easy to prepare solution;
• Low cost of the finished result.

Flaws:

• Long-term strength development of the mixture in the form;
• Porous structure of the finished product;
• Low strength of the finished product
• High probability of cracking.

A mixture based on gypsum, cement and plasticizers. Initially, gypsum mixtures were used only for interior decoration. But by adding plasticizers, it is possible to reduce the porosity of the structure of the finished material to the levels of cement-sand stone.

The advantage of the gypsum mixture compared to its cement counterpart is a more accurate texture of the finished product without external wear, chips and other cosmetic defects

Ingredients:

1. Gypsum G3-G5 – 1 kg;
2. Cement M500 – 50 grams;
3. Sodium oleate (sodium salt) – up to 10 grams;
4. Plasticizer “Friplast” – up to 15 grams;
5. Water – 500 grams.

Advantages:

• fast setting;
• crack resistance.

Flaws:

• porous structure;
• low weather resistance and, as a consequence, the need to apply a protective layer of varnish.

Solution preparation technology

The quality of the finished product depends not only on the selection of ingredients, but also on the uniformity of mixing the solution.

Liquid base manufacturing technology:

1. Initially, dry mix all the ingredients without covering them with water;
2. After the dry mixture of cement or gypsum is the same color and shade, mix it with water and mix thoroughly;
3. Let the solution stand for 5 minutes, then mix again. The base prepared in this way can be poured into molds.

Considering the small volumes of the solution, you can use a clean plastic bucket with a volume of 10-15 liters and an electric drill with a mixer attachment to mix and mix the ingredients.

Forms for pouring mortar

What should be the forms into which we will pour the prepared solution?

• The inner surface of the matrix should more or less accurately repeat the texture of the stone or brick finish;
• The matrix must be elastic so that when the solution hardens, the mold can be removed many times;
• The matrix should be inexpensive.

In domestic construction stores, stone matrices can be purchased at prices ranging from 1.5 to 5 thousand rubles. However, you don’t have to buy a matrix because you can make it yourself.

The cheapest forms for making gypsum tiles are pieces of basement siding that imitates brickwork. You don’t even need to do any tinkering here, just turn the purchased piece of siding upside down and pour the pre-prepared solution inside. Vinyl is moderately elastic, and therefore removing the finished tile will not be difficult.

How to make a silicone mold?

Illustrations	Manufacturing process step by step
	Preparing ingredients. We buy 2 standard tubes of silicone sealant per 0.2 m² mold and 1 kg of regular flour.
	Matrix formation. We lay out a matrix from pieces of artificial stone on a flat surface.
	Die lubrication. Lubricate the surface of the prepared matrix with cosmetic Vaseline, fat or other lubricant so that the frozen silicone can subsequently be carefully removed.
	Kneading the mass. Squeeze the silicone into the flour and knead the dough until a homogeneous plastic mass is obtained.
	Mold making. Roll out the dough on top of the prepared matrix, forming a border on the sides. As a result, the silicone mass should fill all the reliefs of the workpiece.
	Dismantling the mold. You can remove the form after a day. During this time, the silicone dough will completely harden and the likelihood of ruptures will be minimal. To make dismantling the silicone product easier, use a spatula.

How to use the form

Illustrations	Making stone in silicone mold
	Preparing the form. Lubricate the silicone mold with an aqueous solution of laundry soap. The solution is most conveniently applied from a spray bottle.
	Pouring the solution. The prepared solution is poured into the cells.
	Leveling the solution. The solution is dispersed into the cells with a wide spatula.
	Product extraction and drying. After a day, the imitation is removed from the molds and laid out to dry for three days, after which it can be painted.

Illustrations	Making stone in vinyl mold
	Preparing the mold and solution. We undermine vinyl siding from the inside out with lubricant, this is especially true if the matrix has already been filled. Using the ingredients selected in accordance with the technology, mix the mixture and prepare a solution.
	Pouring the solution. The solution is poured into each cell separately. To ensure that all tiles have the same thickness, the poured forms must be laid on a perfectly flat surface without horizontal distortions.
	Removal of finished products. After a day, gradually bending the edge of the vinyl mold, we remove the finished tiles. If the vinyl siding has been well lubricated, the tiles should fall out without sticking or being damaged.

How and what to paint

Illustrations	Coloring methods
	Tinting at the mixing stage. If you need a one-color and monochromatic stone, the color is mixed directly into the solution. For working with gypsum solutions, I recommend dry colors, and for cement-based mixtures, liquid acrylic dye.
	Painting the tiled surface. Oddly enough, this is the most common method, in which each individual tile is painted with a brush or spray. The method is labor-intensive and does not guarantee good coloring compared to the previous technology.

An alternative to artificial stone - decorative plaster

If you think that casting blanks for facing stone is difficult and time-consuming, there is a more affordable technology. Here the plaster mortar is applied to the wall and leveled. A special elastic stamp is used to press a relief imitating stone onto the wet plaster.

Subsequently, the stamped concrete dries and gains the required strength. After the concrete has hardened, the surface of the stone can be primed and painted.

Let's sum it up

Now you know how to make artificial stone yourself. If you still have questions about the proposed instructions, ask them in the comments to the article.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!