Drawing of a folding wooden stool. Stool: materials, manufacturing technology, designs, diagrams and drawings

A folding lightweight wooden chair will be a useful small-sized attribute in the household. A compact analogue of a regular stool can also be used for relaxation. A homemade chair design with a back can be made using various understandable drawings. A folding chair with your own hands, when folded, is put away in the pantry after use on a picnic or fishing - this is the main advantage of the proposed design.

The main types of suitable hardwood for a homemade stool: oak, elm, maple, pear, walnut boards. Also, a craftsman who decides to make a folding chair needs to stock up on a standard set of tools for working with wood with his own hands: a hacksaw, a plane, a chisel, an electric drill, a countersink drill, a Phillips screwdriver, sandpaper, a square, a tape measure and a simple pencil. A folding stool will take a little time to create with your own hands according to the diagram.

A do-it-yourself folding chair will require the use of wooden blocks of different sizes and quantities:

for the legs in the foreground - 7.4 cm (2 pcs.);
for the rear legs – 4.7 cm (2 pcs.);
seat and back slats - 3.2 cm (from 5 to 8 pcs.);
crossbars for frames – 4.3 cm (3 pcs.)

For a folding wooden chair, you will also need a set of metal bolts, washers, nuts, and self-tapping screws to fasten the wooden blocks together with your own hands. According to the calculations of the selected drawing, all wooden structural elements are cut out using a jigsaw or a metal hacksaw. The cut bars need to be sanded with a grinding machine or sandpaper.

The front bars are made with a bevel in order to be placed stably on the surface (at an angle of 60 degrees). The supporting part of the leg is cut off by 30 degrees. A DIY wooden folding chair with a back will require special care when sawing, so it is recommended to use a miter box.

Drawing of a folding chair with a back (1 option) Drawing of a folding chair with a back (2 option) Drawing of a folding chair with a back (3 option)
Drawing of a folding chair with a back (4th option) Drawing of a folding chair with a back (5th option) Drawing of a folding chair with a back (6th option)

A wooden folding chair is assembled as follows:

First, a seat is made. The crossbars are attached to the load-bearing frames using screws.
The slats for the future backrest are attached to the support of the chairs with your own hands, and there is also a crossbar at the bottom of the frame.
Perches are attached to the rear legs of the folding chair structure.
The resulting chair frame is fastened with bolts and nuts with your own hands, using special screwdrivers.
The seat piece is attached to the front frame by drilling through holes and bolting it together.

Here's how you can do it without a back:

Drawing of a folding chair Drawing of a folding chair We attach the outer bars of the seat to the crossbars. When the chair is unfolded, the inner bars of the seat serve as a stop and support the structure
To make the chair comfortable to carry in your hand, you can make a comfortable handle. And this is what the folding chair itself looks like. The chair when folded

Design tricks

You can include in the design of the chair several additional wooden parts, carved with your own hands. For example, another block is inserted between the middle poles of the seat to increase the height of the structure. The handle is installed during assembly. To do this, choose an elongated metal screw (up to 7 cm) to fasten the part between the internal plexus of the legs. A self-assembled folding stool can withstand quite heavy loads. At the same time, it maintains optimal weight for transportation in the hands even by children. Knowing how to make a folding chair, you can experiment with additional attributes for relaxation.

A DIY folding stool will be useful not only in a country house for a picnic. They can be used regardless of where they are (for a children’s room, kitchen, loggia). Using drawings and videos, wooden furniture for outdoor recreation of various configurations is assembled. All products are united by a functional principle of use. Based on photos on the Internet, you can build a wooden table using the same principle. The finished decorative element folds up like a regular wooden folding chair. Fishermen especially love the folding stool for its simplicity and ergonomic design.

Product repair

Folding chairs can break down from time to time. If this type of furniture breaks down, it will not be difficult to restore its operational properties. There are quite a number of videos published online that clearly illustrate how to repair a homemade camping paraphernalia for recreation.

So, you now fully know how to make a folding chair with a backrest. You can easily make a structure with your own hands from different types of wood right at home on your balcony. You can create drawings with your own hands or find ready-made design projects for folding country furniture online. A pair of chairs (transformable) will make a family vacation comfortable in any conditions. Even a novice carpenter can make a folding chair according to the proposed scheme.

Quite often, outside the home, somewhere in nature or in another place, we lack a chair or stool that we could take with us. In this article we will help you make such a folding stool from wood, it is functional and reliable.

To create a folding chair we will need:

Pine board 100x20 mm (these are elements A, B, C, D, E, they are indicated in the drawing);
Round wooden strip, 30 mm in diameter (elements F, G);
Self-tapping screws 4x40 mm;
Wood glue;
Hacksaw;
Sandpaper;
Varnish, stain or primer and paint.

How to make a folding stool with your own hands, instructions:

This drawing shows all the required dimensions. We cut the board into pieces (these are elements A, B, C, D, E), give them the necessary shapes, and sand them so that there are no sharp corners and hooks. We cover it with varnish or you can paint it by applying a wood primer before painting.

Now the folding stool needs to be assembled, again, the drawing shows where which elements should be placed, the boards that will be located in the upper part of the chair, each is screwed on as a seat with four screws, here you need to be careful, the drawing shows which elements each of the boards is screwed to .

A long round rail is placed at the top of the folding chair and it also serves as a handle for carrying the stool. And two small pieces of this rail are located in the middle of the chair on both sides.

This design of a homemade folding stool is the simplest and most functional, try to repeat it and surely such a chair will come in handy not only on a hike but also at home, since a folding stool does not take up much space.

Many stores offer a wide variety of folding furniture. As a rule, it is necessary for outdoor recreation, hunting or fishing. It is compact and easily fits into the trunk of any car. If you need a folding chair of a certain size or from a specific material, but don't have what you need on the shelves, you can make it yourself. To do this, you don’t need to be a carpenter or have a workshop, just a little skill in handling a screwdriver and a hacksaw and the correct drawing.

Kinds

There are two types of folding chairs that you can make yourself. The first of them is a chair without a back. It is the easiest to manufacture and does not require large material costs. The second one has a backrest. Here the creation process will take a little longer, but the chair will also be more comfortable and easy to use.

This chair is suitable even for an apartment or cottage. Moreover, if you use your imagination, you can add armrests or various stands for mugs or a phone. But not only the back can be made different, there are also several options for the legs of the chair.

The most common ones are cross ones, but in addition to them, straight and solid legs are made.

Everyone chooses materials for the base based on their preferences.

Tree convenient for marking and manufacturing, does not require additional tools for work, makes it possible to decorate and give individuality to the product.

Made of metal it is easier to make the legs, but you will need special tools, for example, a hacksaw and a drill designed for this material.

To make the design easier, you can make a chair made of polypropylene pipes. This option will be light and durable, but is unlikely to withstand a lot of weight.

Chairs can have different seats. Having chosen wood for manufacturing, it is better to purchase small slats or bars for the seat; they can be placed at different distances from each other. Compacted plywood or chipboard will also work. For metal legs, fabric is a good choice; both seats and backs are made from it.

Preference should be given to dense, waterproof fabrics; cotton and linen are more suitable if the chair will be used indoors.

Main characteristics

Any folding chair, homemade or purchased, must meet standards so as not to spoil your vacation or your favorite hobby.

Main qualities:

convenience;
safety;
strength;
small dimensions;
light weight;
sustainability;
simple technology of creation and assembly.

The choice of a “folding bed” for many depends, first of all, on its weight and dimensions, because no one wants to carry extra weight on themselves or look for a special storage place in the apartment. Lightweight options will be with a fabric seat made of pipes - plastic or hollow aluminum.

How to make?

Whatever business you want to start, proper preparation is important for a positive result. When making furniture, it is better not to improvise, but to prepare everything in advance. Decide on the place of work, allocate a separate space for each stage. Tools and materials should be at hand.

Materials

Wood is the most accessible and inexpensive material for making a chair. Wood species that are ideal are oak, birch, beech, larch. They are dense, resistant to prolonged exposure to water and sun. Pine boards are not suitable due to their softness and low water-repellent properties. The tree should not have knots, cracks, or dark spots.

Metal will also be suitable. Pipes made of duralumin or steel are what you can use to make a chair at home. Check them for chips, dents and other deformations.

It would also be acceptable to purchase plumbing pipes made of polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride. They are easy to cut, bend well, and have various fittings in the form of corners and plugs.

In addition to the basic ones, additional materials needed in the work are prepared, for example:

Fastening and connection means: bolts, self-tapping screws, screws, screws with washers and nuts;
Glue;
Wooden dowels;
Steel rod;
Fabric for seat and back;
Other.

You can prepare any material for work yourself. The wood is treated with sandpaper and coated with special products for additional protection. The edges of the pipes are also cleaned.

Required Tools

Each material and complexity of making a model requires the use of a specific tool.

But in all cases you will need:

Files or jigsaw;
A clamp designed for making straight cuts or at an angle;
Tape measure, construction angle, ruler;
Pencil or marker;
Screwdrivers or screwdriver;
Drill;
Sandpaper or grinder.

Using metal, holes are made with special drills; you may also need a pipe deformation device. To work with fabric you will need scissors, thread and a needle or sewing machine.

Drawing and marking

To speed up the process, draw a drawing. Given the simple shape of a folding chair, this should not be difficult. There is no need to draw three-dimensional models; the main thing that is required is the width and length of each part and their location.

Based on the drawing, take the prepared materials and mark them with a tape measure, pencil or marker. You need to measure not only the required length, but also the locations of the holes.

Build process

Without backrest

Chair elements: 8 bars for legs and seat, four slats and two prongs.

Lay out all the necessary elements in front of you. Take the bars for the legs and install the axle bolts. Lower this axis 2 cm from the wide bars for the seat so that the chair does not fall. Connect the seat crossbars with bolts, first to the legs inside, then outside, the sequence must not be broken. These parts are hinged, fasten them together. The seat slats are connected and secured at the free ends. Screw the legs with self-tapping screws from the bottom of the legs, the height is about 10 cm from the floor for a chair with a height of 35-40 cm.

Make sure that the middle bars do not touch so that the folding mechanism works. Attach the first beam to the crossbar from the outside, the second from the inside.

With backrest

The process of making the side of a chair with a back involves working in several stages:

Seat assembly. You need to make a base from the bars. The required number of slats must be screwed to the resulting rectangle. It is advisable to recess the screws a little.
The back of the chair. Make a back frame from two bars and two slats; place the remaining slats at equal distances in free space. The crossbar is screwed a little lower; we will screw the seat onto it later.
Movable elements in the form of crossbars are screwed to the rear legs from below and above.
The lower crossbar is bolted to the main frame, and the upper crossbar is attached to the backrest in the same way.
We bolt the seat to the crossbar in the middle of the backrest.

If the seat of the chair is made not of slats, but of fabric, then at the first stage a pre-sewn cover is pulled onto the frame instead of slats.

Made of metal or plastic

The simplest option is a stool with 4 supports. The manufacturing scheme from plastic pipes is simple. The pipe is cut into 8 parts: 4 long and 4 short. The long ones are connected with the letter “X” using bolts.

Once made, these bolts can be used to adjust the chair so that it folds easily. Short sections at the top and bottom are attached to the legs with plastic corners. This is the frame of a chair. All that remains is to take a suitable fabric such as a tarpaulin and sew a seat out of it.

To prevent the chair from moving apart, make a strip from the same fabric, fold it in half and sew it to the lower rungs of the chair.

On the basis of this chair, you can make a version with a back by attaching a frame made of metal or plastic tubes to the top crossbar. The back itself, like the seat, is made of fabric.

You can make a chair with three legs from metal. To do this, you need 3 tubes of equal length and a triangular piece of fabric or leather. The optimal height chair can be made from pipes 60 cm long.

You should start by drilling holes at a height of 25 cm on each pipe. Then make holes to attach the seat material. Now take the two legs and connect them with a bolt; there should be a second bolt with a loop between the tubes. With its help we attach the third leg.

A stool is a familiar, comfortable and compact piece of furniture that is most often used in the kitchen or country house. Chairs purchased in a store and made from wood composites do not always meet all consumer requirements in terms of aesthetics and practicality for such conditions, and they are also quite expensive. This is why the question arises of how to make a stool with your own hands from wood so that it is reliable and lasts for many years.

Anyone who started making furniture with such a simple product as a stool, having become skilled at it, may later want to make more complex and large-scale structures, for example, a table, a cabinet, or something, which will save a decent amount of money for the family budget.

Popular types of stools

Even such a simple piece of furniture can be made in different variations and used for different needs. To decide which model you would like to obtain as a result of the work, you should consider several similar products.

Children's stool

This stool option will not be out of place in any home, as it is convenient not only for children, but also for adults. It is light in weight and compact in size, so it can easily be moved to any convenient place in the yard or house where it is needed at the moment, and even a small child can move it.

It is best to make such a model from a solid board, which should be well processed first. If you want the stool to be very light, then dry linden is used to make it, which has a beautiful textured pattern and very little density.

If the thickness of the board taken for a small stool is at least 25÷30 mm, then only three main parts will need to be made - these are two legs and a seat, which can be fastened with dowels, even without the use of additional reinforcing elements.

All parts of the product must not have sharp corners or burrs. The workpieces must be rounded and well sanded so that there is no risk of injury or splintering.

This piece of furniture can be used not only for sitting, but also as an ottoman, placing it under your feet - this is especially often used by older people. Therefore, by making such a stool, you can please both kids and grandmothers, showing them your care.

Stool - box

It's common to run out of space for small items in the kitchen or workshop, and this stool model is perfect for clearing out some of the currently unused items on your counter. The boards that form the walls of the box strengthen the entire structure well and at the same time create a box where things that should always be easily accessible can be placed.

For example, women can use such a box to store needlework, as it is spacious enough and there is room in it for balls of yarn and knitting needles, as well as everything necessary for hand embroidery or sewing.

The male half will calmly hide in a box under the seat some items of his home “arsenal” that are most often needed in the household - a hammer and nails, pliers and other not too large tools.

To make such a product you will need a well-processed timber 50×50 mm, a board 200÷250 mm wide and 20÷25 mm thick, plywood for the bottom of the box and fasteners.

Folding stool

A folding stool is suitable for small apartments with small kitchens or for small country houses. It can be kept constantly unfolded, and, if necessary, put away in any closet or niche between the furniture and the wall, since when folded its thickness will be approximately 60÷80 mm, depending on the material chosen for manufacturing and design features.

The seat for this stool model can be made round or square, but each option has its own design for attaching the legs. The legs for such a stool are made of boards or thick, 20÷25 mm high-quality plywood. The base of the product consists of two frames, one of which must fit freely into the other. The frames are fastened together on one side and the other with special screws with bushings or a pin axis, which allows the structure to fold.

Step stool

Another option for a stool that can serve not only for sitting, but also act as a stepladder. This model is always useful both in a private house and in an apartment. For example, it is difficult to do without a stepladder during general cleaning, and without it it is not easy to get the right thing from the top shelf of a high cabinet.

When folded, this design will be no different from a regular stool, since the steps will be under the seat. Turning a stool into a convenient staircase is not difficult - you just need to pull the top of the temporarily inverted steps and carefully place them on the floor. The result is a reliable and stable stepladder, which can also be used as a comfortable footrest when sitting on a stool.

To make this model, you will need massive boards for the seat and steps, as well as thick plywood for the legs and a stringer for the steps.

Stool for the garden

If you plan to use a stool in a summer cottage according to the type, only in a portable version, then you need to prepare a wooden beam for it, since plywood will not work in this case. It will begin to delaminate under the influence of moisture, and the product will soon be hopelessly damaged.

Larch or oak is best suited for manufacturing. If you choose other wood, then it will need to be thoroughly impregnated with moisture-repellent compounds and then painted. Moreover, the process of pre-processing of lumber is carried out even before the structure is assembled.

Furniture used outdoors differs from that found indoors in that between the parts from which the seat and back are assembled (if a bench is made), gaps must be left so that rainwater does not linger on their surface, and parts were ventilated faster.

Stool drawing

Having decided on the model of the future product, a sketch drawing is drawn up, according to which all structural elements will be manufactured. When drawing up a drawing, all the necessary dimensions are immediately calculated and marked on the drawing. It is not at all necessary to make a diagram, observing all the canons and rules of drawing science - even just drawing it by hand will be enough. The main thing is that you can visually evaluate what will happen in the end, see all the parameters of the necessary materials and the principle of their connection.

In the presented diagram you can see the names of some of the parts that are included in the design of the stool - these are drawers, legs and “crackers”. Let’s talk about them in a little more detail, so that in further descriptions it will be clear what we are talking about. All these parts are necessary to hold the structure together and give it the required strength.

Tsargi are bars or boards located under the seat of the stool and fasten the legs together with tenon joints, creating a strong support for the seat.
The leg is an element designed to increase the stability and rigidity of the structure. It is located in the central or lower part of the legs (according to their height) and also fastens them together with tongue-and-groove joints.
“Rusks” are bars, boards or metal corners installed diagonally on the inner corners of the structure under the seat and secured to the drawers and legs.

When drawing up a drawing, it is important to calculate not only the parameters of all visible parts of the structure, but also the size of the internal connecting elements, such as tenons cut at the edges of the drawers, and the grooves in which they will be installed, selected in the legs of the stool.

Tools for work

Without carpentry tools, it is simply impossible to make any piece of furniture from wood. Professional furniture makers have workshops fully equipped with special expensive machines. But just to try yourself as a carpenter, of course, you shouldn’t immediately purchase professional equipment, however, you will still have to prepare some tools.

The list of the most popular tools for working with wood is as follows:

It’s great if the farm has a set of cutters that will help you process the edges of boards, timber and plywood, drill holes of different sizes, or carefully select grooves and grooves on any of the parts.

To get rid of tedious operations, you will need a sanding machine with interchangeable wheels of varying degrees of grain to give the wood surface a smooth finish. This work can be done manually, but it will take much longer.

Electric jigsaw. This tool, of course, can be replaced with a hand hacksaw, but after sawing the boards with it, the edges of the parts will not turn out neat, and you will have to work hard on them using a router. Again, cutting the material by hand will take much longer.

will be necessary not only for screwing in fasteners, but also for drilling holes in parts. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare a set of screwdriver bits and drills of different diameters. Instead of a screwdriver, you can use any drill and a set of hand screwdrivers.

Clamps of various sizes. If you want to make a really high-quality and durable thing, then you must have clamps on hand, since when gluing boards into a solid panel or individual parts together, they must be strongly compressed and left in this position for a fairly long time, and besides these no other instrument can do this.
You always need a hammer and chisels of different sizes. Sometimes you have to resort to using a plane - it can also be manual or electric.
Measuring and marking equipment is being prepared - tape measure, construction square, wooden ruler 500÷1000 mm, simple pencil, surface planer, etc.

In addition to these tools, to carry out the work conveniently, you will need a fairly large and durable table - a workbench.

Making stools

folding stool

Traditional simple stool

The designs of even the simplest products may differ from each other in some elements, which, as a rule, are intended to give the stool additional strength.

Materials for production

A simple model of a stool looks like this and consists of parts indicated in the drawing by numbers:

1 - Legs.

2 - Stool legs.

3 - Tsargi.

4 - Seat.

5 - Connection elements - supports for installing the seat.

6 - Connecting grooves.

7 - Connecting grooves.

To make traditional stools with a height of 500 mm, a seat of 450x450 mm and straight legs, the following parts will be required:

Four well-processed, smooth beams for the legs, cross-section 50x50 mm, height 485 mm. They can be straight or have narrowed cuts on the inside.
For the seat you need to prepare two or four boards 12÷20 mm thick, 450×225 mm or 450×112.5 mm in size, or a plywood panel 450×450 mm, 12÷20 mm thick.
To give the stool strength, in different types of structures 4 legs and 4 drawers can be used, made of timber with a section of 30×30 and a length of 441 mm, or only drawers - 4 boards, with a cross-section of 30×60 and a length of 441 mm.
Additionally, connecting elements can be used in the form of small pieces of bars fixed on the inside, in the middle of the drawers, but you can do without them if bars of sufficient thickness are taken for the base under the seat.
30×30 mm timber for making “crackers” if they are intended to be installed.
Wooden dowels (chops) for securing the seat to the finished base - 4 pieces, 30 mm long and 8÷10 mm in diameter.
Self-tapping screws.
Wood glue.

Assembling the stool

Illustration
	The first step, in order not to waste time, is to glue the boards for the seat if it will consist of several elements. To do this, well-fitted and polished end sides of the boards are coated with glue, connected to each other and tightened with clamps. This design should dry thoroughly, and while it is setting, you can start assembling the frame base of the stool.
	Next, the bars for the legs are prepared. They must have perfectly even cuts and be the same in height, which can vary, depending on the wishes of the master, and range from 450 to 500 mm.
	The next step is to mark the legs and determine the location of the connecting grooves for installing the tenons of the legs and drawers in them (or just the drawer, if the legs are not included in the design). The holes are selected using a router or chisel.
	Next, the edges of the drawers and legs are processed. Tenons are cut out on them with a width, height and depth that is 1÷1.5 mm smaller than the holes in the grooves in the legs intended for them. The tenons should fit fairly freely, but still fit tightly into the grooves.
	After this, the legs are assembled in pairs, fastened together by means of legs and drawers - their tenon parts are glued into the grooves of the legs. Each of the resulting frames is tightened with clamps. Then, after they have dried, the legs, tied in pairs, are also connected by drawers and legs into a single structure for the base of the stool and again compressed in clamps until they are completely glued. After the glue has dried, all connections are additionally secured with self-tapping screws.
	If it is intended to strengthen the stool with “crumbs”, then they are screwed to the sides and the leg of the stool. This element, installed flush with the top edge of the drawers, will create additional support for the seat.
	The next step is to mark and secure the stool seat. To do this, glue is applied to the back of the panel according to the markings, and then it is laid on the finished base of the stool, leveled and pressed. Next, in the corners, through the seat panel, one hole is drilled, the diameter of which should be 1-2 mm larger than that of the prepared dowels, and the depth should be 5 mm less than their height. Glue is poured into the hole, and then the dowels are driven in. Exposed glue is immediately wiped off. The top of the dowel is cut off using a router, and this area is sanded smooth. Additionally, the seat must be tightened with the frame using clamps until the glue dries completely.

The adhesive can be designed for different drying times, and this is usually indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. It is possible to operate the products only after the specified period has completely expired.

Folding stool

The folding version of the stool is convenient because, thanks to its compactness, it can not only be stored in a small living space, but can also easily fit into the trunk of a car for transportation to the country.

children's stool

Materials for production

To make such a stool model, you will need slightly different materials than those used for the traditional product. Thus, some craftsmen prefer to purchase ready-made furniture panels made from natural wood. They are excellent for cutting design parts, since, having cut them out of this material, all that remains is to process their edges.

For the presented version of the stool, the master required a panel measuring 1120×400×24 mm, and in addition to it, additionally, the following materials:

A stud with threads cut on both sides and end nuts, 250x8 mm in size, for through installation, or a stud with blunt ends for installation in blind grooves.
Furniture butterfly hinges size (when opened) 350x400 mm - 4 pieces.
Dowels or choppers 50×8 mm.
Wood glue.
Stain and clear varnish or tinted varnish.
Self-tapping screws 15÷20 mm long.

The dimensions of all structural parts are clearly visible in the presented drawing.

The folding stool consists of the following parts:

The seat is round, with a diameter of 350 mm.
The frame is 166 mm wide, consisting of two bars measuring 500 × 48 × 24 mm, and a cross member 122 mm long.
Frame 122 mm wide from two bars 500x48x24 mm with cuts at the upper ends at an angle of 30 degrees, and crossbars 70 mm long.

Making a stool

Processing of parts and their assembly is carried out in the following order:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	It must be said that the seat can have a round or square shape with rounded corners, at the choice of the master. In this case, a round seat with a diameter of 350 mm was chosen. For the convenience of folding the stool, a curved hole should be made in the upper part of the seat, approximately 120 mm long and 20÷25 mm wide, so that it is convenient to grasp it with your hand. It can be cut using a router or drilling two holes with a diameter of 20÷25 mm at a distance of 120 mm from each other, and then connecting them by sawing out the wood between them using a jigsaw, making two cuts. In order for the hole to be neat and smooth, its edges must be processed immediately.
	Processing the edge of the seat and the inner edges of the “handle” hole is most often done using a semicircular cutter. But if this tool is not available, then they are put in order by first using a file with a large notch (rasp), and then sandpaper of different grain sizes, gradually bringing the wood to smoothness.
	The next step is to process the prepared bars of the legs. In two of them, which will form the outer frame, you need to cut a groove 180 mm long and 8 mm wide, and 42 mm deep, along which the pin will go. Sometimes the grooves are made through - it is for this case that a stud with threads at the ends is selected, onto which a special cap nut is screwed. In the other two bars, according to the diagram, through holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled through which the pin will pass - these elements are intended for the manufacture of a narrow frame.
	The grooves are cut using a router, or holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled along the intended line, which are then combined into a common groove using a jigsaw. The work is carried out on a special machine, or the beam is rigidly fixed in a vice, and then holes are drilled in it using a drill or screwdriver.
	The bars that will form the inner, narrower frame of the stool must be carefully sawed off at the top at an angle of 30 degrees - this process can be done on a machine or using a miter box. The corner must be cut perfectly accurately, so this work cannot be done “by eye”. On the lower part of the legs, it is recommended to slightly round the corners and edges.
	The crossbars installed between the legs are mounted on dowels, which are glued into the drilled holes. This process can be done in different ways. Most often, the jumper is first installed with glue in the place intended for it, the legs are compressed in clamps, and left to dry completely. Then, through the outer side of the legs, through holes are drilled, which go deep into the end sides of the jumpers by at least 20÷25 mm. After this, dowels are carefully driven into the holes using glue. Each side of the jumpers will require two fasteners.
	On the back of the seat, according to the drawing, the places where the butterfly loops will be attached are marked. Then, the loops are laid on the marked place and outlined. Further. From this place, a landing “nest” is selected with a depth equal to the thickness of the loop, that is, when secured, the loop should be flush with the main wooden surface.
	Next, the loops are secured on the upper end sides of the legs. They are screwed on with self-tapping screws, the caps of which must be in the same plane as the surface of the hinges. The next step is to attach the second side of the hinges to the sockets prepared for them on the back surface of the seat.
	To make the structure look neat, it is recommended to cover the pin with a tube carved from wood. You can replace the wooden version of the element masking the pin with a plastic tube, since turning this part out of wood is not so easy. The length of the tube should be 68 mm, the internal diameter 9 mm, the thickness of the tube walls can be from 2 to 10 mm.
	Next, the pin is inserted into the narrower frame through a prepared decorative tube, and its ends are inserted into the grooves of the outer, wider frame, along which they will move when folding and unfolding the stool.
	It must be said that a folding stool may have a slightly different design. It uses not one, but two studs, and instead of an internal frame, a solid board is fixed, and it serves as an equally reliable stool leg. The second, outer frame has a jumper at its very bottom, at such a level that when the structure is folded, the leg board fits neatly into it, creating one panel. The fastening of such legs to the seat is carried out in exactly the same way as in the first version of the folding stool.
	For comparison, you can see what one and the other model of the finished product looks like, and choose the one you like best for production. It is probably not difficult to understand that the second design option is simpler to implement.

Stool with wicker seat

A stool with a wicker surface can be made in a low or full, high version - it will be comfortable in any case. Its seat can be made of various materials - durable fabric, belts (including old car seat belts), cord and even plastic-braided cable. It is quite possible to come up with your own version.

Materials for production

The frame for such products is mounted, in principle, according to the same scheme, however, if a high stool is made for an adult, then the design should be more reliable, that is, it is advisable to strengthen it with durable drawers and legs. We must not forget that in a traditional stool the seat is also a reinforcing part of the structure, and its wicker version itself requires a particularly strong frame.

So, for the frame of a rectangular stool measuring 500×400 mm, you will need:

Wooden blocks 50x50 mm for legs - their height can be selected individually.
Bars for drawers and legs, section 50×25 mm.
Metal or wooden corner elements - “crackers”.
Self-tapping screws.
Leather or synthetic belts, or durable rope in one or two colors.

Let us immediately note that the model shown in the example has a fairly large seat, which reduces the overall strength of the stool. Therefore, it may be more reasonable to make this structural element a little smaller, for example, 350x300 mm.

Find out by reading the options from “classic” to “transformer” in a special article on our portal.

Making a stool

The manufacture of such a stool is carried out in the following order:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The structural elements of the stool are cut from the bars prepared for work. The legs can range from 300mm to 500mm in height and the model shown is 400mm high. In order for the legs to be stable, their end parts must be perfectly flat. Therefore, they should be marked using a construction square, and preferably sawed using a circular saw, which will give a perfect cut.
	The next step is to prepare the bars for the legs and drawers. In this case, 4 beams with a length of 450 mm and 4 beams with a length of 300 mm are cut. These elements should also have smooth edges for a snug fit to the legs.
	To make holes for fastening structural elements at a certain angle, a special tool (jig) is used that can guide the drill bit in the desired direction. This device is fixed on a block, and two holes are drilled through its guide holes on each side of the wooden part. After all the elements of the stool are ready, they should be thoroughly cleaned - this process is best carried out before assembling the structure, as it will be easier to see all the problem areas on the wood.
	This photo shows what such holes look like inside the beam.
	Additional fastening of the drawers and legs with the legs can be done using tongue-and-groove fasteners, and then, for maximum reliability, also with metal corners - “crackers”. These parts need to be selected according to the width of the wooden blocks.
	If the first fastening option is chosen, using self-tapping screws, then the assembly and fixation of all parts of the stool look as shown in the presented photo.
	At the end of the assembly, the stool frame should be strong and stable. When leaning on it, it should not swing.
	If it is planned to be painted or tinted, then this process is carried out before the seat is made.
	To equip the seat for the model shown in this example, 17 leather belts, 35 mm wide, were required. As already mentioned, seat belts used in cars can be used instead. The straps are screwed with two self-tapping screws measuring 10 mm at a distance of 9 mm from each other, onto the wide side of the beam extending inside the stool frame. The length of the belts must be measured in advance using a tape measure, “traversing” the entire path of the belt with its flexible tape. First you need to secure the belts, which will be located along the length of the rectangle. Having secured the belts on the inside, they go around the beam, pull it through the seat frame to the opposite king beam, go around it and also fasten it on the inside using the same screws.
	After the longitudinal belts are secured, the belts that will intertwine the already tensioned elements should be secured in the same way. They are screwed onto one of the long sides of the frame. Then, each of the belts is passed transversely through the longitudinal belts, in the form of weaving. After this, they are also wrapped on the inside of the opposite drawer, stretched and screwed. Having completed this operation, you can proceed to “testing” the product.
	Another option for designing a flexible stool seat is to stretch a strong rope or cord over the frame. In this case, paper rope was used. In addition to this, you need to prepare furniture nails with wide heads and a hammer, as well as clamping pliers and an awl.
	You can purchase rope of different shades for weaving and display one of the selected patterns on the surface of the seat, getting a stylish piece of furniture that will complement the interior design.
	The end of a rope of the same color is nailed to the back side of the drawer using two furniture nails.
	Next, the rope is carefully wrapped around two long opposite sides of the frame. If the frame is square, then the process of laying the rope can begin from any side of the structure.
	By braiding the opposite sides with a rope, its loops are pressed against each other as tightly as possible and pulled. Having covered approximately 100÷120 mm of the length of the seat with braiding, the rope is temporarily fixed with pliers so that it does not loosen. Work continues in this way until the entire surface of the seat is covered with a wound rope.
	Having finished covering the seat along two sides with one color, you can move on to weaving it across with twine of a different color. To do this, in this case, take a white rope and fasten it also on the back side of the drawer, running parallel to the already wound rope.
	Using a white cord, any pattern can be “highlighted” from a red background. This process is relatively simple and will be accessible even to a beginner.
	In this case, the white cords are pulled between the red rope so that the result is a herringbone pattern, that is, stripes are turned diagonally from the center of the seat.
	Having intertwined 6-8 rows and pulled them tight, the white rope is grabbed on the back side of the drawer with a furniture nail. If this is not done, the seat will quickly stretch and sag when using the stool. This procedure must be carried out every 6–8 rows, driving nails either on one side or on the opposite side.
	The result should be a durable seat, four threads thick, with an interesting design. If you want to choose a different pattern, woven from three or even four colors of rope, then on the Internet you can always find exactly what will suit a specific interior.

It should be noted that in the second option, where the seat is covered with rope, the frame is not very strong and is unlikely to support people with heavy weight, but such a stool is perfect for a children's room or as a footrest. If you want to make a full-fledged product for the seat, you need to choose a more massive beam for the frame and strengthen it especially reliably.

Find out by studying several available options in a special article on our portal.

In conclusion, it is worth saying that making a stool yourself, without having experience working with wood and special tools, is not as simple as it seems at first glance. However, if you have the desire and enough patience, then it’s quite possible to try yourself as a carpenter. The main thing is that you need to get ready for serious work and not do it “carelessly.”

Video: master class on making a simple wooden stool

There are some activities for which a small chair is simply necessary. At the dacha, I’ve needed a compact folding chair for a long time. However, the chair with a back seemed too bulky to me. After considering several projects for sliding furniture, I decided to make a folding stool with my own hands. The main advantage of this design is that when assembled, such a transformer is a small wooden object with a convenient handle for carrying and storing it in the trunk of a car. Those who use such stools highly appreciate their convenience during outdoor picnics and fishing.

Tools

To make a folding stool with my own hands, I needed the following tools:

jigsaw;
hacksaw;
drill;
screwdriver;
vice;
development ø 1 cm;
sander;
head with a knob for nuts;
die for thread cutting M 6;
tape measure and ruler;
clamps;
pencil.

Materials

Almost all the materials needed to make a folding wooden stool with your own hands were purchased at a building materials store. I had some little things in stock. Total materials obtained:

pine beam 300 x 4 x 2 cm – 1 pc.;
board 234 x 4 x 1 cm – 1 pc.;
screws 4 cm – 16 pcs.;
emery wheels – 2 pcs.;
bolts ø 6 mm, length 4 cm – 10 pcs.;
nuts, washers, groovers (spring washers) - 10 pcs. of each type;
metal tube with internal ø 8 mm, length 195 mm;
piece of reinforcement ø 6 mm, length 31.5 cm.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a folding stool with your own hands

The crossbars were secured with clamps, placing a temporary spacer between them.
Laying 6 boards on the upper surface of the crossbars. with gaps between them of 10 mm, secured them with screws. The result is a seat measuring 390 x 290 mm.
From the ø 6 mm reinforcement I cut a piece 315 mm long with a hacksaw.
The fittings were clamped in a vice. At the ends of the segment I cut threads for M6 nuts with a die.
I threaded the pin through the hole in one of the inner legs. I put a metal tube (tsar) on the hairpin.
The other end of the pin was threaded through the hole in the second inner leg.
The ends of the studs on the outer side of the legs were secured with nuts, having previously put on washers and groovers. I tightened the nuts with a head and a wrench.
I inserted bolts into the remaining holes of the furniture parts, which were secured on the other side with nuts. I placed groovers and washers under the nuts. Grovers are necessary to ensure that the nuts cannot unscrew spontaneously under the pressure of the springs.

After checking the reliability of the connections, I finished assembling the furniture.

Video tutorial on assembling a high chair:

At the end of the work, I summed up how much it cost to make this furniture. Calculated the cost of materials and time costs.

Cost of materials

pine beam 300 x 4 x 2 cm – 1 pc. = 30 rub.;
board 234 x 4 x 1 cm – 1 pc. = 15 rub.;
screws 4 cm – 16 pcs. in stock;
emery wheels – 2 pcs. in stock;
bolts ø 6 mm, length 4 cm – 10 pcs. = 10 rub.;
nuts, washers, groovers (spring washers) - 10 pcs. of each type. = 10 rub.;
metal tube with internal ø 6 mm, length 19.5 cm = 15 rub.;
hairpin ø 6 mm, length 31.5 cm in stock.

Total costs were: 80 rubles.

Labor costs

The time spent making this furniture was about 8 hours.

This wooden furniture, simple in design, brings many benefits and convenience for working in the garden, renovating premises, fishing and outdoor recreation.