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They write to us:
« I want to say a huge thank you for the patterns through the generator. I sewed trousers, I just want to cry from happiness, because the size is 60. Two summer trousers in the cut. Thanks again to all the employees of this project for their great help ... »
Ludmila Kuptsova
« I am a large girl, size 58-60, so I was very surprised when the trousers sewn according to the basic pattern fit perfectly from the first fitting. I experienced a real shock. It was a week ago. Now I am sewing two more pairs already from expensive fabric. To say that I am satisfied is not enough! I am endlessly happy! Thanks!.."
Aecc
“... I already used the pattern of trousers. I liked using the service: easy, accessible and understandable, and inexpensive. Thank you. I will explore other sections as well. I will definitely recommend to interested friends. All the best. Further success and development ... "
Marina
It's great to receive such feedback from you! When you realize that your work is useful, you experience incomparable pleasure. Here on this wave, we decided to go further and publish a lesson on modeling trousers for you. We hope that it will be useful to you. Let's learn how to model such models.
Pattern of palazzo trousers
The first model of trousers that we will consider is the palazzo trousers. Loose, flared from the hip, they resemble a skirt-pants. Very comfortable at any time of the year, in summer they are indispensable. Sewn from fine viscose jersey, silk, linen .. pleasantly flow down the leg and! importantly, hide the flaws, if any.
For modeling, we need scissors and glue.
With the first step, from the points formed by the intersection of the lines of the side seam and the line of the hips, and the end points of the seam of the seat on both halves of the trousers, lower the perpendiculars to the line of the bottom of the trousers.
The second step in modeling the palazzo trousers pattern. To achieve the desired flared shape, it is necessary to cut the pattern parts along the marked lines from the bottom up to the top of the tucks on both halves. Having closed part of the solution of the tucks, we open them at the bottom, thus obtaining the required width of the trousers along the bottom.
Let's outline the width of the finishing part, lampas, its width can be different, according to your desire, in straight lines along the line of the side seam, perpendicular to the bottom. Having cut off along the marked lines, the parts are compatible into one. The tuck solution along the side seam can be left in the center of the part, or it can be distributed in the stitching seam to the main parts of the halves of the trousers.
The top cut of trousers is processed by a stitched belt. Cut it out in the form of a straight line 7 cm wide (without allowances for seams), in ready-made(in the fold) 3.5 cm, and a length equal to the circumference of the waist. We suggest making a fastener in any seam with a hidden zipper.
Jogger pants pattern
Pants - joggers have undoubted advantage- they are very comfortable. Their loose but not too loose fit at the hips, slightly dropped waistline and seat, soft ribbed cuffs and ribbed top, material performance - all this ensures comfort and ease of style. Worth wearing them Everyday life, although they are made of silk, lurex fabrics ... they can also become the subject of an evening wardrobe. In our photo, the model of trousers is Ralph Lauren joggers, they are made of high quality soft jersey.
Let's start modeling by checking the gains along the hip line. After you have printed out, take a centimeter tape in your hands and measure both parts of the trousers along the hip line, compare the result with your measurements + an increase in fit freedom. We recommend an increase to OB 6-8 cm for this model. If the pattern in the hip area does not match your request, it is easy to correct.
It is necessary to cut the details of the pattern along the center and move apart by the missing amount. See drawing.
Next, you need a little lower the waistline, along the back - along middle line by 2 cm, and to the side by 3.5 cm, in the center of the front half of the trousers 3.5-4 cm, plus the width of the elastic belt.
Lower seat line.
Do not forget to shorten the legs to the width of the elastic cuff.
Cuffs - elastic bands on the bottom of the trousers are cut out with rectangular parts with a width equal to their doubled width in the finished form, plus an allowance for a stitching seam (1 cm), and a length equal to the circumference of the ankle, plus a small (1.5-3 cm) increase in freedom of fitting, plus an allowance for the seam.
The belt is also cut out in the form of a rectangle with a length of OT + an increase in the freedom of fitting 2-3 cm and a seam allowance equal to twice the width in the finished form.
On outside punch two blocks in the center of the belt or overcast two loops to thread the cord.
The cuffs and the waistband must be sewn slightly stretching, equalizing the cuts of the trousers and the details of the processing.
Pocket. Make a pocket with an overlay seam, bending the sections inward, process the section of the entrance to the pocket into a hem or edging.
Pattern of cigarette trousers
The next model, which we have chosen for the lesson, is elegant and graceful. Pants - cigarettes - are very popular, they add sexuality and grace to women's legs.
Modeling it is not at all difficult. Having a well-fitting , you can easily cope with this task.
Just narrow the pants and adjust the length. For narrowing, you need to know exactly the desired width of the trousers along the bottom and in the knee area - for control. This can be done simply by removing the parameters from the figure, plus an increase in the freedom of the fit. The recommended increase in the knee area is 8-12 cm, along the bottom 5-10 cm. The value depends on the fabric, because you can use fabrics with a high content of elastane. Decided? Then measure the pattern in these places, modeling may not be needed!
If turned out to be wider (already) - we will correct it.
In order not to lose the proportions of the trousers, the excess (missing) value must be corrected with the same segments on each side of the side seam along the bottom and the knee line, on both halves of the trousers. See drawing.
Process the top of the trousers with a stitched belt, which is cut out in the form of a rectangle with a length equal to the measure From, plus an allowance for freedom and an allowance for the fastener. The width of the belt is 3 cm in ironed finished form. The closure of cigarette trousers will look best in side seam, on a hidden braid-zipper.
We hope you enjoyed our lesson. Good luck!
Thanks for the feedback.
It is difficult to imagine the wardrobe of a modern woman without trousers. There is a huge variety of styles of this comfortable type of clothing. The main condition that stylists impose on trousers is that they should fit perfectly on the figure! In stores, whatever one may say, they sell clothes mainly for women with standard figures. What should others do? Of course, sew in the studio or with your own hands! Many novice dressmakers are afraid to take on tailoring. And in vain! Sewing trousers with your own hands is not at all difficult if you know the entire sequence of their manufacture.
How to sew trousers: manufacturing sequence
Model
First of all, you need to choose a model of trousers according to your figure. If you are sewing trousers for the first time, opt for a straight model without pockets. Classic straight-cut trousers should be in every woman's wardrobe - they are good both in a business and casual atmosphere. In addition, on the basis of such a pattern, it will be possible to model any style of trousers in the future.
Textile
We turn to the choice of fabric. Fabric for trousers can be conditionally divided into seasons: woolen and half-woolen fabrics are more suitable for autumn winter, cotton, linen, silk, mixed fabrics are more suitable for summer; as well as on styles: for business it is better to choose classic noble natural fabrics, for sports and home - more affordable in terms of prices and quality. How much fabric is needed to sew women's trousers, see the link.
measurements
The next step is taking measurements for tailoring trousers. We will need 5 basic measurements: waist circumference, hip circumference, seat height, hip height, length from the waist to the desired length of the trousers. How to take measurements, see.
Pattern
Let's start building a pattern of trousers. At this stage, many novice needlewomen are faced with the question - where to get such a pattern so that the trousers "sit" perfectly on the figure? You can build it yourself or choose from a fashion magazine. And you can rip open your old favorite trousers at the seams, transfer the contours to paper, you get the perfect pattern.
And you can also reshoot the pattern from your favorite trousers or jeans, see the video on how to do this:
cutting
Let's move on to cutting the details of the trousers. We need to cut out: 2 front and 2 back halves, as well as a belt detail. First of all, you need to prepare the fabric - if necessary, carry out decatification, as well as iron it from the wrong side. See more details. Don't forget the seam allowances! On the side and step cuts - 1-3 cm; on the middle cut - 2-3 cm; on the bottom - 3-5 cm; along the upper edge - 1 cm. To stiffen the belt, cut out a part of the belt from interlining.
Sewing
The details of the trousers are prepared, it remains to sew them. If you took labor lessons at school, of course you are well aware of and. If you forgot - see the information on the links.
If you are sewing trousers for the first time, especially if the pattern is unfamiliar to you, you need to sweep the details of the trousers, try them on, make adjustments, and only then proceed to sewing on sewing machine. Be sure to iron; prepare the belt: glue the interlining to the wrong side of the belt part, if the model has loops, finishing details- prepare them.
Not every woman can boast of ideal body shapes. Therefore, not all purchased clothes “sit” well on the figure. Every beginner seamstress will be able to afford jeans or shorts with a good fit, ideally suited to the type of her figure. This construction details the complete process of constructing and sewing women's trousers. Building patterns is not too difficult a process, it is enough to correctly understand and learn how to cut things with your own hands.
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Step-by-step construction of women's trousers for beginners
Material for work
Taking measurements from a figure (abbreviations in the text)
- St - half-circumference of the waist. measuring tape The circumference of the waist is measured and divided by 2.
- Sat - half-girth of the thigh + 1 cm.
- Vk - height from waist to knee.
- Dp - front length.
- dB - length on the side + 1.5 cm.
- Ds - back length + 2 cm.
- Sun - seat height = (Sat: 2 + 1 cm).
- Sk - half-girth of the knee.
Building the front part
On the left side, draw a right angle with the apex in t. T. TN - the length of the product along the front.
TS - seat height.
ShB - 1/3 of the measurement Sun.
TC - knee line.
From all points draw horizontal lines to the right. Step width WSH1 = Sat: 2 + 5 cm.
Ш2 = ШШ1/2. From t. Ш2 down and up, draw a vertical line.
T2K2H2 is an arrow line or shared thread.
Front cut outline. From t. Sh1 to the left, measure 1/10 (Sat + 1) = t. Sh3.
From point Ш3, draw a vertical line at the intersection with a segment of the waist and put t. T1. Make a withdrawal of the middle horizontal 1 cm to the left.
The withdrawal to the left is not done when designing trousers, the pattern of which is drawn on a figure with a belly. On the bisector of the angle from the point Ш3, set aside 1/20 Sb \u003d t. Sh4.
Make an average cut by combining the points T10, B1, W4, W1 and extend the horizontal line to the right by 1 cm.
Construction of a pattern along the waist line. From t. T10 to the left, set aside St: 2 + 3 cm = T3. The size of one or two darts depends on the difference between the waist and hips. Connect the point T3 with t. B, extend the BT3 line upwards by the difference between the measurements in front and side = t. T30.
The width of the knee on the pattern is indicated by the section K2K3 \u003d K2K4 \u003d Sk: 2 + 2 cm.
From points K3K4 draw vertical segments to the bottom of the pattern. Connect the side cut with a smooth convex line to the step line, from t. W to t. K3, the contour can be convex or slightly concave. The segment from point K32 to the bottom line is always drawn in a straight line.
Step seam: t. Sh1 is connected to point K4 with a straight vertical line. Divide this segment in half and measure 0.2 cm at the division point to the left, draw a step seam with a concave line to unite points 1, 0.2, K4. The K4H4 gap is connected by a straight line.
The tuck at the waist is located in the direction of the shared thread in the arrow itself or can be laid with a pinch from t. T2 to the left, it can be located towards the side line no closer than 7 centimeters.
Rear detail drawing
From t. Sh3 to the left, measure 1 cm = t. Sh30
t. T9 \u003d segment T1T2 / 2.
Ш30Т9 connect with a straight line and extend it up.
T9T11 \u003d 1/10 Sat - 1.5 cm.
From B2 upwards measure the resulting value = B3.
B3B connect together and continue the horizontal to the right (the line of the hips of the back pattern of the trousers).
Hip width \u003d (Sat + 1 cm) - B1B \u003d B4.
Waist T11T12 \u003d St / 2 + solution of one or two darts.
Segment B4T13 = BT30 (notches are made along the contour of the hips in points B4 and B).
The width along the knee line in the drawing is K2K30 = K2K40 (Sk / 2 + 4 cm).
Vertical lines are drawn from K30K40 to the bottom of the product. B4 is connected to t. K40 and a side cut of the back half is formed with a smooth convex contour between T13B4 at the level of t. Sh.
The segment B4K is drawn in a slightly concave line, and K30N30 are connected in a straight line.
The middle contour of the back pattern of trousers. Set aside 0.2 from t. Sh3 to the right (Sat + P).
On the bisector of the angle with W3, set aside 1/20 Sat - 2.6.
Make a cut of the back part, connecting points T11, B2, B3, SB, 1, SH7 in a straight line.
Connect Sh7 with K40, making a step cut. Segment Ш7К40 / 2, and at the point of division to the left, measure 0.8–1 cm. Draw a cut with a concave line, combining t. Ш7, 0.8, К40
Section K40N40 is a straight segment.
The bottom of the product passes through the points HH1. For classic trousers, the front half is drawn up according to paragraphs H3, H6, H4, H2H6 = 0.8–1 cm.
The bottom of the rear part is determined by points H30, H5, H40, H2H5 = 1.5–2 cm.
The allowance on the bottom of the trousers is not more than 4 cm.
The position of the tuck of the back pattern of trousers at the waist. T11T13 / 2, put T14 in the division. From t. T14 at an angle of 90 degrees to the waist, draw a strip down, the tuck solution is three centimeters. Its length is approximately 11 cm, depending on the shape of the buttocks. Make a tuck by connecting points T15, T11, T16.
It is better to cut all tucks on paper in half size. A notch is placed on the middle line (on), the middle and side lines are outlined on the fabric.
The control mark on the fabric is placed along the knee line (the depth of the cut is 0.5 cm).
Allowances:
On the sides - 1.5 cm.
On step seams - 2 cm.
Waist - 1 cm.
Bottom - 4–6 cm.
A wedge of the back of the trousers is allowed, which is cut off along the shared thread.
Cutting details
After building a pattern of trousers, the patterns of both halves are cut out. Tracing paper is applied to the drawing and the contour of one of the halves of the product is outlined. It can be either front or back. It is better to translate the narrow part of your pattern onto tracing paper, since it is smaller in volume than the back. Then a pattern is cut out of tracing paper.
Before sewing the product, the material must be washed so that it shrinks.. The fabric is then folded face down along the grain thread. If the material is very wrinkled, it must be ironed with steam.
Patterns are applied to the material, leaving room for allowances on each side. The pattern is fastened with safety pins around the entire perimeter of the fabric. Details are grinded, allowances are added and cut out. In order for the trouser belt to be rigid, you need to cut out a piece of interlining and glue it to the wrong side with an iron.
Tailoring
The first step is to sweep the details and try on. If the product sits perfectly on the figure, you can sew the halves of the trousers. First, tucks are processed on both patterns. Then the middle front and back halves are sewn (if a zipper is provided, sew a zipper), side and step sections. Allowances are processed with an overlock, a belt and belt loops are sewn on. Ready product ironed with a steam iron.
Note
On the basis of the presented drawing, the remaining styles of women's trousers are designed. It can be shorts, breeches, tight or voluminous trousers, jeans.
We all know that “the main thing is that the suit fits”. How to get the perfect fit? You can choose it for a long time and meticulously in the store, or you can bet on a win-win option - to sew a suit yourself. To do this, you need to choose the right fabric, the right pattern and make a little effort. Let's figure out how to sew the perfect pants.
Before you start, you need to choose a model that is suitable for your type of figure. Modern fashion provides a wide selection of interesting models, but when sewing trousers, it is recommended to pay attention to classic models suitable for all body types. These are straight trousers of medium width with an arrow, trousers with a low waist, with an extension from the hip or tight-fitting at the top, with a slight extension from the knee. If you are sewing trousers for the first time, choose models without pockets. Now let's move on to the choice of fabric. Of course, first of all, you should consider the season during which you are going to wear a new thing. Wool is suitable for winter, linen or silk for hot summer. Corduroy trousers dictate a sporty style, tweed will be appropriate for formal events.
As you can see, tailoring trousers is not an easy task. Need to be given Special attention details and have skills in working with patterns and sewing machine. Start with simple models, practice tailoring individual elements- and one day you will sew your perfect trousers.
