Step-by-step instructions for laying stoves. How to make a small brick stove with your own hands

This article contains an understandable, very detailed photographic instruction for laying a brick oven with your own hands, tips on how not to make a mistake when choosing the necessary materials and how to correctly place the stove in a private house for optimal heating of a larger area.

Oven installation options in the house

The placement of the stove completely depends on what the owners expect from it. If it is installed in a small house and will be used as a fireplace for friendly gatherings, you can use the first scheme. Such a stove is a good option for grilling barbecue or kebabs.

Brick oven placement options

The second scheme is for a solid square house. In this case, the front side of the fireplace stove opens into the living room, the stove walls heat both bedrooms, and the heat in the rest of the rooms is maintained by means of heat exchange.

The third scheme with a stove for heating and cooking is a budget housing option for a bachelor or a small family. Pros - a warm bed and the possibility of placing a dryer in the hallway.

Important: it is worth taking care of the external insulation of the house in advance, because it greatly increases the efficiency of stove heating.

Selection of bricks, sand, mortar

For the oven to serve for a long time, you need to correctly select all the materials. There are three types of bricks:

Ceramic - can be used to build a furnace.
Silicate - generally not suitable in this case, even double M150.
Refractory - ideally suited, but they are often used only for the firebox and fireplaces, varieties: fireclay, refractory bricks, etc.

Tip: when choosing a brick for a stove, you need to completely abandon its hollow types.

The mortar is made from clay. Red clay is suitable if the stove is made of red brick; when using fireclay, special fireclay clay is required. Some stove-makers still, in the old fashion, independently make a solution from river sand with a grain of 1-1.5 mm, clay (in a ratio of 2.5: 1) and water. At the same time, it is advisable to use angular quarry sand without foreign inclusions and the so-called oily clay. However, it is easier and more reliable to buy a ready-made oven mixture in a store, preparing it according to the instructions.

From accessories, you need to purchase grates, blower and furnace doors, soot cleaners, valves or dampers.

Preparation, tool list

Before starting work, you need to determine and mark the place that the new stove will take.

The chimney pipe should be no closer than 15 cm from the roof rafters.

If the laying is done by you for the first time, professional stove-makers advise you to practice in advance by making a model of the future stove from the prepared brick. Naturally, no solution. This minimizes possible risks in real laying, allowing you to learn from your mistakes, which can still be corrected in the layout.

The stove foundation requires preliminary waterproofing, in area it must exceed the area of \u200b\u200bthe stove.

When laying a new row, you need to control the absolute verticality of the walls.

To build a brick oven, you need the following tools:

plumb line;
trowel;
roulette;
putty knife;
bulgarian;
knitting wire;
building level;
metal strips, corners;
containers for cement and clay mortar.

Step-by-step instructions with a photo on laying the stove

Different stove-makers have their own masonry technologies and their own secrets that have come over the years of experience. Here you can find information on a fairly simple way to create a fireplace stove for heating a two-story house, the process will not seem extremely difficult even for novice stove-makers.

Foundation masonry

A basic row of brickwork will serve as the foundation. It is made with any brick, some stove-makers even cover this level with rubble.

When laying the base row, cement mortar is used.

The foundation is completely filled with mortar, the layer is leveled.

Erection of the furnace body

The first oven row is marked. The horizontal, from which they are repelled when marking, is the wall of the room.

Where the fireplace is planned to be placed, a grate is placed. From this row, bricks are already laid on the oven mortar.

An important stage of work is the scrupulous leveling of each new row.

Laying the second row. The stove wall, which is closest to the wall of the room, is reinforced with additional bricks to increase fire safety.

The place where it will be located in the 2nd row remains empty, the rest of the furnace is laid completely. A door is mounted through which the owners will clean out the ash.

The door is installed on the mortar, leveled off. For a more reliable fixation, it is fixed with wire, which must be laid between the bricks.

The grating is not laid on a simple brick, but on a refractory brick. Holes are cut in the fireclay bricks so that it lies on the same level as the bricks.

The size of the brick is easily adjusted - the excess is measured out and neatly cut off.

The large door is mounted next to the installed grille.

The large oven door is similarly fixed with wire fasteners.

The first furnace row is placed exactly above the fireplace, it is reinforced with metal corners and a strip or thick sheet metal. So that the masonry can lie on them, it is cut through with a grinder, then the slots are manually brought to the desired size.

The next brick row is laid.

A fireplace grate is laid on the fire-resistant brick along with the brick row.

The door is fixed, the brick is strictly adjusted to it.

The firebox of the new stove with a fireplace is ready.

Fire-resistant fireclay bricks are placed over the furnace firebox.

The stove body is built.

Chimney creation

The place left for the chimney is divided into wells. The design requires reinforcement with metal plates.

Brick chimney wells are being laid.

Soot cleaners are mounted above the firebox roof.

The wells are again divided, the first rows of the walls should be reinforced with metal strips.

After strengthening, the ceiling of the furnace body is erected. The chimney space remains empty.

The cornice of the body is laid out, then the chimneys are laid.

The final stage of work on the ground floor. The stove is located at the bottom left, the smoke inside the chimneys moves in a spiral and comes out at the top left. The final division of the wells is covered with a tin sheet. In order to compensate for the pressure inside the fireplace, 2 brick rows are laid on the sheet metal.

Two chimneys stretch to the second floor of the house - from the fireplace and the stove itself, they are separated from each other. A separate damper is required for each chimney.

Floor level of the second floor. Waterproofing is installed here, the chimney is again reinforced with metal corners. To save money and not build a heating stove on the second floor, the chimney of the stove under construction is again divided. The smoke will go along it like a snake, having time to warm up the room. In order for the chimney to warm up much faster, it is placed in the area of \u200b\u200bthe second floor with a thickness of 1/4 or 1/2 of a brick.

A hole for the chimney is carefully cut out in the roof.

Before removing the chimney to the roof, it is reinforced with metal corners.

If the chimney is located in the immediate vicinity of the roofing ridge, it must be laid out above the ridge at least 0.5 meters. If further, then the height of the chimney is allowed, equal to the height of the ridge, but not lower. In this case, the wind increases the furnace draft, lifting the smoke upward.

Even a small stove in the house is coziness and comfort. Larger stoves require increased skill and additional materials, but the principle of their construction is similar to the above method.

Figure 1 - Stove with fireplace and stove

The stove is a very popular option for heating private houses. Of course, now there are many different heating options, but still, the stove remains a very popular option for heating a house, its individual rooms. In addition, you can cook food on the stove, use it as a dryer, steam room in a bath, make a lounger and sleep on it. In addition, you can come up with a number of other applications and bring them to life.

What are the advantages of brick ovens?

It has a number of positive aspects and in many situations it wins over its competitors. Here are the main advantages of this option:

This heating option is environmentally friendly: when laying the stove, only building materials of natural origin are used; when heated, they do not emit any harmful substances and carcinogens.
After heating, the stove keeps warm for a long time.
It can be harmoniously integrated into the interior of the room.
It is a multifunctional product - in addition to heating the premises, you can cook food on it, use it as a dryer, and the healing properties of medical sleep on the stove are generally known.

What should you pay attention to when choosing the parameters of the oven and its location?

The stove is a multifunctional element, with its help you can maintain comfort in the room, prepare food, heat up, dry, etc. Therefore, the choice of the dimensions of the stove and its placement in the house must be approached as seriously and responsibly as possible. The larger the stove, the more heat it will generate, and the longer it will cool down after the heating is complete. If there are several separate rooms in the house located opposite each other, then it is advisable to arrange the stove in such a way that its lateral sides, which give off the maximum amount of heat, look towards these rooms. It's no secret that the sides of the oven emit 3-4 times more heat than the front and back sides. This must be taken into account when planning the location of the oven in the room.

What kind of brick should be used when building a furnace?

Different parts of the furnace are laid out with different bricks, depending on the temperatures that will affect it:
1. The lower rows of the stove, which will not be exposed to high temperatures, as well as parts of the chimney, the smoke temperature in which will not exceed 80 degrees, can be laid out of building red bricks.

2. Red kiln ceramic bricks. Has the best characteristics. Kiln bricks can withstand high temperatures up to 800 degrees without destruction. The furnace part is laid out with this brick.
3. Fireclay brick. The inside of the combustion chamber is laid out with this brick. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees. Differs in high heat capacity and thermal conductivity.

You cannot lay out the furnace only with fireclay bricks. It heats up very quickly, then cools down just as quickly. In order for the stove to give off heat for a long time, the outer layer of the furnace must be laid out with stove bricks.

What kind of mortar is needed to bond bricks?

Different parts of the stove are laid out with different types of bricks. The solution in different parts will also be different:

Cement-sandy. The parts of the stove, which are laid out with ordinary red bricks, are placed in ordinary mortar.
Mortar based on cement M400. A mortar based on this brand of cement and high-quality rock sand is used in the construction of those parts of the furnace where the temperature will not exceed 250 degrees.
Clay solution. Also mixed with rock sand. However, expensive mountain sand can be replaced with sand from crushed kiln or fireclay bricks.
Clay is a very important component of the solution. It is best to use a red stove. When frozen, it should not crumble and crumble.
The solution should be of medium thickness - like thick sour cream in consistency. The layer thickness should be minimal - no more than 5 mm. This is so that the precious heat from the stove does not go away too quickly.

How to fold the oven with your own hands?

To do this work, it is best, of course, to resort to the services of a qualified professional - a stove-maker, but this is not a panacea. The work can be done on your own. You just need to stock up on knowledge and boldly get down to work.
The styling can be divided into stages. We offer step-by-step instructions.

Stage 1 - Choosing a place for the oven

The first step is to choose a place where it will stand. This should be a place closer to the center of the room, so that when the oven heats up, it evenly gives off its heat even to the most distant corners of the room. The location of the oven should be such that it does not interfere with the passage, does not block the light. There should be no furniture or combustible utensils near the stove, which can ignite when the stove is heated up and cause a fire. Also, the place where it is installed should be such that it is convenient to work near it: lay firewood, take out and throw away ash, work on the stove, etc. Also, next to the stove, there should be a place for storing a small armful of firewood so that at any time you can add a couple of woods to the fire.

Stage 2 - Choosing the dimensions of the furnace

Everything is simple here: the larger the stove, the more heat it will give off, the longer it will cool down and give off heat to the room for more time. However, such a stove needs to be heated up longer and more firewood is needed for heating.
A small one is quicker to heat, but there will be less heat from it and it will drain faster.

Stage 3 - Selection of bricks and their quantity

Next, you need to choose a brick from which the oven will be laid out. It's best to take red. The number of bricks is determined by multiplying the number of bricks in a row by the number of rows. You also need to take into account possible errors and additional branches during laying.

Stage 4 - Site Preparation

If the stove is massive and heavy, then it is advisable to make a separate foundation for it. If not, then you need to prepare a flat, clean surface, cover it with roofing material. If necessary, formwork can be made from boards. The first row sets the tone for all future work, so everything must be done conscientiously.

Stage 5 - Laying of the first row - underfloor part

The first row is the basis of the future design. Therefore, you need to approach him very responsibly. We arm ourselves with a level, if necessary, make the formwork. It is best to first lay out the first row without mortar and see what happened, and then fix the bricks with mortar.

Stage 6 - Installing the blower

After laying two rows, you need to install a blower door and make a cavity into which ash from the combustion chamber will be poured. To fix the door, the hardened wire is fixed with one end into special holes in the door, the other end is fixed between the bricks on the mortar.

Stage 7 - Laying out the hot part

The fire chamber is laid out from heat-resistant oven and fireclay bricks. You also need to install grate bars through which the ashes will fall down.

Step 8 - Installing the combustion chamber door

An important stage in construction work. Installed by analogy with the blower door. The furnace door should be fixed as securely as possible, because it will open and close over the years.

Stage 9 - Laying the rows of the combustion part

Step 10 - Installing the stove

The stove must be laid evenly, all seams and joints must be very well coated with mortar and be airtight so that when the stove is burning, smoke does not go through the cracks into the room, and the flames do not fall on the hob.

Stage 11 - Laying the chimney

Different parts of the chimney, which will be affected by different temperatures, are again laid out with different types of bricks. In the process of laying the chimney, you must not forget about the view and the chimney valve. The view is installed by analogy with the blower door. A narrow slot in the chimney must be provided for the valve.

When the stove is on, the valve is pulled out and allows smoke to go out through the chimney into the street, when it is not in use or the heating is completed, the valve is in the retracted position.

Stage 12 - Withdrawing the chimney through the roof

One of the most difficult and crucial stages. The pipe through which the smoke will be removed outside the house can be of the following types:

Asbestos-cement is one of the cheapest and most affordable options.
Metallic.
Stainless steel.
Brick. The laying of the stove continues after the chimney, which smoothly passes into the pipe and exits above the roof.
A ceramic pipe is an expensive option.
Vermiculite pipe is a new modern solution.

Necessary tools, materials and accessories for work

To complete the work, you will need the following tool:

Master OK.
Pick.
Building level.
Scoop shovel.
Plumb line.
Putty knife.
Roulette.
Pliers.
Bulgarian.
Sieve.

Figure 11 - Tools required for construction work
You will also need the following materials and accessories:

Brick (oven, building, fireclay).
Formwork boards.
Roofing material.
Chimney valve.
Chimney view.
Form for mixing the solution.
Blower door.
Furnace door.
Cement.
Mountain sand.
Red clay.
Water.

Conclusion

Laying the stove in your private house is a very big and responsible job. First you need to develop a project, choose a place, make sure that the foundation is reliable, or make a new foundation for the furnace. It is necessary to correctly select the dimensions of the stove based on the size of the room and the purpose of the stove, to correctly position it in the house relative to the rooms. To lay the stove, you need to prepare different types of bricks, knead a high-quality mortar. After completing all the work, you need to heat the stove and see how it works, whether the stove, gate valve, doors are working properly, whether the structure is tightly folded, etc. If minor flaws are found, they will need to be eliminated as soon as the heating is completed and the furnace cools down.

Despite the fact that many of them today are equipped with one or another heating system, brick heating structures do not lose their popularity. On the contrary, engineers and craftsmen are developing all new models of stoves, more compact, including various functions. Indeed, stove heating will never be superfluous for a private house, as it can help out the owners in different situations. For example, in autumn or spring, when the nights are cold, but it seems like it's too early to turn on the autonomous heating, a heated stove will create a cozy atmosphere in the rooms and relieve them of excessive humidity. The stove will help maintain an optimally favorable atmosphere and temperature balance in the house, comfortable for a person.

Therefore, the search query on how to fold the stove with your own hands, the drawings of which will tell in detail about the correct sequence of masonry work, does not leave the Internet. Today, even those people who have no stove-maker experience at all show a desire to try their hand at this craft. If a decision is made to install a stove in the house on their own, then beginners are advised to choose a simple version of this structure with an understandable order.

In addition to the availability of the structure, when choosing, you should pay attention to its heat capacity, that is, for heating what area it is designed for. It is important to take into account the functionality of the structure and decide what you would like to get from it.

Varieties of brick ovens

There are several basic types of ovens - some of them perform only one main task - it is heating the house, others are used only for cooking, and still others include several functions in their "set of capabilities". Therefore, in order to determine the desired model, you need to know what each of the varieties is.

the structure is able not only to heat one or two rooms, but also to help prepare food and boil water. If the model is equipped with an oven and a drying niche, then it becomes possible to bake bread and dry vegetables and fruits for the winter.

The heating and cooking stove is often built into the wall or acts as a wall itself - for this, it is turned with the stove and firebox towards the kitchen, and with the back wall into the living area of \u200b\u200bthe house. Two problems can be solved at once - heating the premises and getting the possibility of cooking in a separate room.

If the structure is additionally equipped with a fireplace, then the stove will work not only as a functional structure, but will also become a decorative decoration of the house.

The heating type of stoves is designed only for heating the premises of the house. Some models have not only a combustion chamber, but also a fireplace. Thus, the oven can operate in two modes - when only one of the functions is used, or they are both involved at the same time. Most often, heating stoves are built into the wall between rooms or are installed in the middle of one large hall, dividing it into zones.

A similar structure is being erected both for the main heating of the house and as an additional one, which is used in the spring and autumn to maintain normal temperature and humidity in the rooms. Heating stoves are usually installed when the kitchen has already realized its own possibility of cooking, or in a house with a large total area, where several stoves are being erected that perform various functions.

At a summer cottage in a small house, it is better to install a multifunctional structure that can help out in several situations at once.

The cooking stove is built in the kitchen, and its design is designed specifically for fast food preparation. However, this function does not deprive it of its heating capabilities, since its entire body, back wall and cast-iron stove warm up well, giving off heat to the room.

The main function of this stove is cooking

The cooking stove is usually compact, so it is perfect for installing it in a country house or in a small kitchen of a private house.

Having such a compact but functional unit, you can eliminate the risk of freezing or being left without dinner and hot tea, even if the electricity and gas supply is cut off.

Many different models of all the listed types of furnaces have been developed. They can be quite miniature and take up a large area. Therefore, stopping at one of the models, before stocking up on materials for its construction, you need to measure and draw its base on the floor of the room in which it is planned to be installed. Thus, it will be possible to visually determine how much free space will remain in the room.

How to choose the right place to install the oven?

In order for the stove to work efficiently and give off heat to the premises of the house as much as possible, and also be fireproof, it is necessary to choose the correct location for it.

It is especially important to think over this point in the event that the stove is built into a finished building, since the chimney must pass between the ceiling beams, and not accidentally stumble upon them, therefore the installation option must be calculated as accurately as possible.

A stove brick structure can be installed in different places in a room or between two rooms. Which place is better to choose will be discussed later.

To get the maximum effect from the stove, you should not install it near the outer wall of the building, as it will cool down quickly and is unlikely to be able to heat more than one room.
Some models of stoves are installed in the center of the room or offset from it to one side or the other. This location is chosen if the room needs to be divided into separate zones. Moreover, different sides of the stove structure can have a different decorative finish, made in a style corresponding to the design of a specific area of \u200b\u200bthe room.
Quite often, the stove is built into the wall between two or even three rooms, which makes it possible to use the generated heat as efficiently as possible. In this case, for the purpose of fire safety, it is very important to provide for reliable insulation of the walls, ceiling and attic floor at the passage
When choosing an installation site, it is necessary to provide that each side of the foundation for the furnace should be 100 ÷ 150 mm larger than the base of the furnace itself.
To accurately determine the size of the base and the height of the oven, it is recommended to always choose the model to which the ordering diagram is attached.

Having chosen the place for its installation, you can purchase all the necessary materials and prepare the necessary tools. The number of materials will depend on the size and functionality of the oven model, and the masonry tools are always the same.

Tools required for masonry work

For work, you will need to prepare a very "solid" set of tools

From tools for laying bricks and pouring the foundation you will need:

Rule - This tool is used to level the surface of a concrete-filled foundation.
A pick hammer is needed to split and cut bricks.
Veselka is a wooden spatula that is used to grind clay and lime mortar.
The kiln hammer is used to split bricks and remove dried mortar that has protruded outside the masonry.
A broom made of bast is designed to clean the internal channels of the furnace from sand and solution that has got into them.
A lead scribe is needed for markings in the event that the stove is finished with tiles.
The building level is necessary to control the evenness of the rows and the surface of the walls.
Scribe - a rod used for markings.
A plumb line is a cord with a weight designed to check the verticality of the output surfaces.
A building angle with a ruler to check that the outside and inside corners are correct, as they must be perfectly straight.
Pliers are used to bend and nibble the wire to fix the cast iron elements of the furnace in the seams of the masonry.
Rasp - This tool is used to remove sagging and lapping lumps in dry masonry.
The chisel is used for splitting bricks and parsing old masonry.
A rubber hammer is necessary for leveling bricks laid on a mortar by tapping.
(trowels) of different sizes are used to apply mortar when laying bricks and remove the mixture that has protruded from the seams.
Joining is a tool for leveling mortar in the joints of masonry. It is used in the event that the masonry is made "under joining", without further facing.
Manual ramming will be required to compact the soil and backfill layers into the foundation pit.
Containers for mixing solution and clean water.
Sieve with a metal mesh for sifting sand.

A stand for the convenience of working at a height, called "goats". The surface of this device is of sufficient size not only for comfortable movement of the master, but also for installing a container filled with solution.

Arrangement of the foundation for a brick stove

The foundation for the furnace is usually prepared along with the foundation of the house, but they should not contact each other in any way, and even more so - be combined into a single structure. New foundations tend to shrink, which can deform one of them, and this will pull damage to the other. That is why they should be installed necessarily separately from each other.

In the case of erecting a stove in an already built house with a wooden floor, a fairly large-scale work will have to be done. In the place where the stove will be installed, the floor boards will have to be removed by cutting a hole to the size of the future foundation.

If the foundation under the house is monolithic, and the chosen model of the stove is not too massive, then the structure can be erected on it, having previously laid the material for waterproofing on the installation site.

The foundation should have the shape of the base of the furnace, however, as already mentioned above, each of its sides is made larger than the side of the furnace by 100 ÷ 150 mm.

If the floor in the house is wooden, markings are made on it, along which the boards will be cut.
Then, a pit is dug in the underground in the shape of the future foundation, the depth of which can vary from 450 to 700 mm, depending on the composition of the soil.
The bottom of the pit is compacted, and its walls are lined with plastic wrap or roofing felt.

Then, a sand cushion with a thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm is laid on the bottom, depending on the depth of the pit, and is well compacted using a manual rammer.
The next layer, on top of the sand, is filled with crushed stone, which, if possible, is also compacted. This layer can be between 150 and 200 mm.
Further, along the perimeter of the pit, a wooden formwork in the form of a box is installed. Moreover, polyethylene or roofing material remains inside it, and then fixed to the walls with a stapler and staples. This waterproof material will keep the mortar poured into the formwork, preventing moisture from leaving it, which will allow the slab to dry and harden evenly.
The foundation should have a height of about 250 mm below the level of the "clean" floor, that is, two rows of bricks will need to be placed on the finished base so that it rises flush with the floor surface.
Some craftsmen, in order to save bricks, on the contrary, raise the foundation above the floor by 80 ÷ 100 mm. The convenience of such a solution also lies in the simpler joining of the side walls of the foundation with the surface of the floor covering.
The next step into the formwork, to its entire height, is a reinforcement grid made of steel reinforcement with a thickness of 4 ÷ 6 mm. The rods are connected with each other by wire twists.
Further, in the lower part of the formwork, to a thickness of 250 ÷ 300 mm, you can pour a coarse concrete solution mixed from cement and gravel in proportions of 1: 3, or cement, crushed stone of the middle fraction with the addition of sand, in a ratio of 1: 2: 1. But, in principle, you can also use ordinary concrete mortar made of sand and cement.
If a coarse mixture is poured down, then immediately, without waiting for it to set, a thinly mixed solution is laid out on top.
The filled-in is leveled by the rule along the upper edges of the formwork boards, after which it is recommended to lay and sink a reinforcing mesh with 50 mm cells into the mortar and sink it by 15 ÷ 20 mm.

The surface of the foundation is leveled again and, if necessary, concrete mortar is added to the formwork, on top of the mesh.
Further, the foundation is left to harden and gain strength - this process will take from three weeks to a month, depending on the thickness of the layers of the poured solution. To make the concrete more durable, it is recommended to spray it with water every day for the first week, starting from the second day.
On top of the frozen foundation, waterproofing is laid, consisting of two or three sheets of roofing material, which are stacked one on top of the other.

To start laying the first row, it is recommended to make markings on the waterproofing material, indicating the location of the furnace base. Thanks to the outlined perimeter of the base, it will be much easier to install the first row of bricks and keep the sides and corners even.

After these preparatory work, you can proceed to laying.

Dry masonry

Even experienced craftsmen, starting the laying of a previously unfamiliar structure, first produce it dry, that is, without mortar. This process helps to understand the intricacies of the internal channels of the oven and not make mistakes during the main masonry. The entire structure rises dry, and each of the rows must be laid out in accordance with the order applied to the furnace model.

When performing dry laying, the thickness of the horizontal and vertical rows must be observed. To keep this parameter the same throughout the entire masonry, you can use strips 5 mm thick. Of course, it will be difficult to measure vertical seams in small pieces of slats when laying dry, so they will have to be determined visually, but for horizontal seams, slats must be used. Applying them, after laying out the last row of the structure, you can see the real height of the furnace.

As an example of the use of rails, you can consider this photo.

It is especially important to adhere to a uniform thickness of the seams, if the laying is done for joining, and will not be finished with additional decorative materials in the future.

When laying dry, it is important to understand the configuration of the channel through which the smoke will leave the firebox and rise to the chimney. If a mistake is made when laying out this passage, then part or even the entire structure of the furnace will have to be shifted, since a back draft can form, and the smoke will go to the room during kindling.

Having lifted the stove dry before laying the chimney, the structure is disassembled. Moreover, if not only whole, but also their small fragments were used in the rows, then during disassembly each of the rows can be folded in a separate pile, placing the row number on one of the bricks. Sometimes, in addition, the number of the brick is also put down in each of the rows. Such a system will speed up the work, since all the material will be fitted and laid out in the right order, and all that remains is to soak it one by one and put it in the rows of the oven, but already in the solution.

Performing the main laying, two strips are installed on the edges of the previous row, between which a solution with a thickness of 60 ÷ 70 mm is applied. Then a brick of the top row is placed on it, leveled and tapped until it rests against the slats. It is necessary to have such calibration devices for three rows, since it is possible to pull it out of the seam only after the mortar has set. So, having laid out three rows, the slats are pulled from the lowest seam, cleaned and laid on the fourth - and so on. If you are not sure that the vertical seams will turn out to be the same thickness, you can also prepare a short strip for them, which will be rearranged into the next seam immediately after aligning two adjacent bricks.

After pulling out the calibration strips from the seam, a sufficiently deep gap will remain between the bricks. It is filled with a solution, the excess of which is removed with a trowel, and then put in order with the help of jointing.

Processing of seams "for joining"

If the calibration strips were laid on both edges of the brick, then on the inner side of the wall there will also be recesses between the seams. They also need to be carefully repaired, since the seams must be airtight, filled with mortar over the entire width of the brick.

It is very important, when laying on a mortar, to check each of the laid rows with a building level so that the entire structure does not skew.

Simple accessories such as gauge strips will help you masonry neatly with equal joint widths. Therefore, the entire surface of the oven will look as if the design was made by a professional master.

These nuances will help to simplify the process of erecting a furnace structure, to avoid mistakes that can lead to the need to redo all the work.

Schemes for the construction of brick ovens

Yu. Proskurin's stove with heating and cooking functions and a drying chamber

The model, developed by engineer Yu. Proskurin, can be called one of the simplest designs of heating and cooking furnaces, which even a novice master can easily master. Despite the compact size of the structure, the stove is capable of performing all the functions necessary for a small house, since it is equipped with a hob and a drying chamber, which, if desired, can be replaced with a water-heating tank.

Such a stove is capable of heating one or two rooms with a total area of \u200b\u200b17 ÷ 20 m², therefore it can be built into the wall between the kitchen and one of the small rooms of the house. In this case, it, of course, must be oriented in such a way that the structure is turned by the plate towards the kitchen area.

The dimensions of this heating structure, without the height of the chimney, are 750 × 630 × 2070 mm. The stove has two operating modes - winter and summer, which allows using only the hob in the warm season, without unnecessary heating of the whole house. Heat transfer from the furnace with its full firing is 1700 kcal / h.

For the construction of this heating structure, the following materials will be required:

Name of materials and elements	Quantity (pcs.)	Element dimensions (mm)
Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe laying)	281 ÷ 285	250 × 120 × 65
Fireclay brick, refractory grade Ш-8	82 ÷ 85	250 × 120 × 65
Furnace door	1	210 × 250
Doors for cleaning channels	2	140 × 140
Blower door	1	140 × 250
Summer gate valve for chimney	1	130 × 130
Firebox shutter	1	130 × 130
Hob latch	1	130 × 130
Grate	1	200 × 300
Single-burner hob	1	410 × 340
Steel strip	1	40 × 260 × 5
	1	40 × 350 × 5
	1	40 × 360 × 5
Steel corner	1	40 × 40 × 635
	3	40 × 40 × 510
	4	40 × 40 × 350
Roofing iron	1	380 × 310
Pre-furnace metal sheet	1	500 × 700

To fill the foundation, it will be necessary to prepare cement, crushed stone, sand, gravel, roofing material, reinforcing bar or steel wire 5 ÷ 6 mm thick. If it is decided to replace the drying chamber with a hot water tank, you will have to purchase or manufacture it as well.

In order for the work to be successful, it is strongly recommended to carefully study the order before starting it, and keep this scheme always at hand during the laying process.

In this illustration, this oven is schematically represented in several sections. Here you can clearly see how the chimney channels pass inside the structure, trace the movement of smoke from the firebox to the chimney.

Illustration (ordering)	Brief description of the performed operation
	The first row is solid, it is laid out according to the configuration shown in the diagram. The row should be perfectly flat, since the reliability and durability of the entire structure will depend on its correct masonry. The row consists of 15 bricks.
	Second row. At this stage, the shape of the ash pan (blowing chamber) and the bottom of the two channels are laid, which will run vertically. Laying out a row, openings are left for installing the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers. They are installed on the same row. The row is laid out with 13 bricks.
	In the cast-iron doors, for their fastening in the masonry, special ears are provided, into which the prepared pieces of wire are inserted. Further, their ends are twisted together and embedded in the seams between the rows of side walls. To prevent the door from moving from the installation site until it is fully fixed, it is temporarily propped up with bricks.
	The third row is laid out according to the scheme. The walls of the blower and cleaning chamber rise in it, and the ends of the wire are fixed in the seams between the rows of bricks, with the help of which the doors are fixed. For laying a row, you will need 13 red bricks.
	Fourth row. The chamber of vertical channels is divided into two, since then they will be laid out separately. The cross-section of the channels along their entire height will be 80 × 120 mm. In addition, installed doors overlap in this row. You need to prepare 13 red bricks.
	The fifth row is laid with refractory fireclay bricks, as the lower part of the furnace is formed. In the bricks that determine the location of the grate, a cut is made at a right angle from their inner edge. The cutout should be approximately 10 x 10 mm ± 1 mm. Prepared bricks are laid over the blowing chamber. For laying a row, 16 fireclay bricks are required.
	After that, on the fifth row, a grate is installed in the prepared recesses in the bricks. It is sometimes mounted on clay mortar, but often without mortar at all. In the latter case, the gaps between the grating and the brick, which should be about 3 ÷ 5 mm, are filled with sand.
	Sixth row. The walls of the two vertical channels continue to form, and the walls of the furnace begin to erect. Laying is carried out only with fireclay bricks. The row consists of 12 fireclay bricks.
	Further, on the sixth row, a combustion door is mounted, which, like the blower door, is fixed with a wire in the seams of the side walls. However, before installation, the furnace door is equipped not only with wire fasteners, but also wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord. This process must be carried out to create a thermal gap that will allow the metal to expand when it is strongly heated.
	The seventh and eighth rows are laid out from 12 refractory bricks each and correspond to the ordering scheme. During their laying, the walls of the furnace continue to rise and vertical channels form. It is clear that the laying of bricks in the rows is bandaged.
	When laying the ninth row, the door of the combustion chamber is blocked. To relieve the load from the cast-iron door, from the bricks installed on the side walls, the edges, turned towards the combustion chamber, are cut off at the same angle of 30˚. These cuts will serve as a kind of support for the middle brick, cut from both sides at an angle of 60˚, that is, it should fit perfectly between the two extreme bricks. A row will require 12 fireclay bricks.
	On the tenth row, the fuel chamber is combined with the extreme vertical channel, since the smoke formed in the firebox was directed into this hole. In order to ensure the smooth running of the hot air, a cut of the protruding corner is made on the middle brick separating the furnace hole and the closed channel. This row will require 11 fireclay bricks.
	On the eleventh row, the masonry going around the combustion chamber differs in that bricks with a cutout to a brick depth of 10 × 20 mm are used for it. This step is for laying the hob. For masonry, you will need 11 fireclay bricks.
	After the 11th row is laid out, the step on the bricks is covered with asbestos strips or a layer of clay, 3 ÷ 4 mm thick (provided that the hob is 5 mm thick). These spacers will serve as a cushion and thermal gap for the hob. Then, the hob is installed in the place prepared for it. From the side where the cooking chamber will be formed, the corner part of the masonry is reinforced with a metal corner.
	From the twelfth row, only red bricks will be laid. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid, and the previously opened vertical channel is again closed with a lintel. For laying this row, you need to prepare 10 bricks.
	The 13th row is laid out according to the scheme, but in the outer part of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing a valve designed to switch the furnace modes to winter or summer operation. For this, cutouts are made in the brick to deepen the metal element. Further, on the prepared place, the stationary part of the chimney valve is fixed on the clay-sand mortar. The row is laid out with 10 bricks.
	14th - 18th rows - 10 bricks are required for each of them. The masonry on these rows has the same configuration, taking into account the dressing, and forms vertical channels and a cooking chamber.
	On the 18th row, the cooking chamber is overlapped by three steel corners, which form the basis for laying the next rows. One of these elements is installed on the edge of the "ceiling" of the cooking chamber, the second turns to the first and is installed at a distance of 250 mm from it (brick size), and the third corner is pressed against the second with its back side. Looking at this structure, it is quite possible to understand how the bricks should be laid.
	19th row. Laying it out, they block the cooking chamber with 12 bricks, but a steam exhaust hole is formed above it, into which a valve will be installed. To mount this element, cutouts are made in the edges of the bricks installed on three sides, and a layer is removed from the outer brick, making its thickness smaller. Next, a valve is fixed to the prepared site on the clay solution.
	The 20th row is laid out according to the presented scheme. At this stage, the installed valve is closed and the channel openings are formed. The side brick in the first vertical channel is compressed for a smooth overflow of heated air. A row will require 15 bricks.
	On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and the opening for removing steam from the cooking chamber are combined into a common space. Masonry is carried out along the perimeter of the furnace, the brick is installed in the form of walls, and a second vertical channel is framed. Moreover, the angular inner brick is cut to ensure smooth escape of steam into the chimney. For masonry, you need to prepare 11 bricks.
	Further, on the same row, the resulting space is overlapped with steel strips, which will provide a basis for installing a metal plate and laying the next rows.
	The next step, which is performed on the same row, is the installation of a roofing iron plate. With the help of it, a chimney hole is formed, located on the opposite side of the window for steam out of the hob.
	On the 22nd row, a metal plate is covered with brickwork. Further laying is carried out according to the scheme. Only the channel openings remain open. Then, a metal corner is installed on the outside of the oven, which will strengthen the front part of the bottom of the drying chamber. The row will require 15 bricks.
	23rd row - the walls of the drying chamber are formed. Its back wall is made of brick, installed to the side - it will separate the chamber from the opening of the chimney duct. Used 12 bricks.
	On the 24th row of 11 bricks, the walls of the chimney and two vertical channels, as well as the drying chamber, are formed.
	25th row - work continues according to the scheme, laying is made of 12 bricks. The second brick of the rear wall of the drying chamber is installed in the same way as the first one, on the side.
	26th row. At this stage, the vertical channels are prepared to be combined into one space, so the bricks in the vertical channels are cut at a slight angle to direct the smoke in the desired direction. For laying a row, 11 bricks are required.
	On the 27th row, using the masonry, two vertical channels are combined, and a cleaning door is installed on this common chamber. The rear wall of the drying chamber is raised by another brick, which is installed on the side. The row consists of 11 bricks.
	On the 28th row, consisting of 10 bricks, masonry is performed according to a scheme similar to the 27th row. And then the drying chamber space is covered with three metal corners.
	On the 29th row, almost the entire area is covered with brickwork, which is mounted in accordance with the scheme. Only the opening above the drying chamber is left open, where a valve will be installed in the cuts made on the bricks framing this opening. The outer brick is cut, making it less thick. A valve is installed in the equipped "nest" on the clay mortar. The row consists of 17 bricks.
	The 30th row, consisting of 16 bricks, completely covers the surface of the furnace. The only exception is the chimney hole, the size of which is half a brick.
	The chimney begins to form on rows 31 to 32.

If it is decided to do it yourself, then the work should be done slowly, approaching each stage of the process with all responsibility and maximum accuracy. Provided you follow all the recommendations and the provided ordering scheme, even a novice master will be able to cope with this work and gain experience for new creations.

And at the end of the article - another example of laying a miniature brick oven for a country house.

Video: compact brick oven for a small kitchen

As a rule, small brick ovens are installed. You can easily make such stoves yourself, having previously studied the technology of laying stoves.

Choosing a brick oven for your home

First you need to decide on the specific type of oven. And for this, study in detail the existing types of furnaces and choose the most suitable option for yourself:

Dutch channel type furnaces have small dimensions and are quite simple to build. The efficiency is not high, about 40%. These furnaces operate in slow burning mode.
Swedish brick oven chamber-channel type has a higher efficiency than Dutch ones. The overall dimensions are also not large, but the design itself is more complicated. In addition, all building materials for this oven must be selected more carefully.
Russian stove has the highest efficiency, over 75%, but the laying of such a furnace is very difficult, and you can hardly do without the help of professionals.
Brick heating and cooking stove - a more common and simpler heating option. This oven requires a small amount of building materials, and you can make a simple structure yourself.

If this is your first time building a stove, then for independent construction, choose a Dutch stove or a melting brick stove, because the construction of Swedish stoves is more complicated and requires some experience in this matter. As for the Russian stove, you should not undertake its construction yourself.

The next step is to determine what size your stove will be and how many rooms it will heat. In a small house, the stove can be placed in the wall between rooms.

The basic condition for the placement and construction of the stove is very simple: direct heating from the walls of the stove must cover a large number of rooms.

If this is not possible, it is better to use stoves with built-in hot water coils. With this version of the stove, the remaining rooms will be heated by special ones.

Kiln brick

For an increased service life and proper operation of the furnace, it is necessary to carefully approach the choice of building materials, namely bricks. In addition to strength and durability, its thermophysical properties, which provide heat in your home, depend on the choice.

For a Swedish stove, it is very important to select high-quality building materials, but for a Dutch stove, the quality requirements are not so high.

Heating brick stoves used to be made of red brick, but today it can be distinguished 2 main types:

red ceramic brick, grade 150;
fireclay refractory brick.

The bricks must be the same size;
The use of hollow bricks or sand-lime bricks is strictly prohibited. Solid ceramic brick is required;
For cladding, choose decorative bricks;
Choose refractory fireclay bricks for the combustion chamber.

Instruction and drawing of ordering brick ovens

Now let's take a closer look at the masonry itself. All sides of masonry bricks have their own names, and they determine the type of masonry. The most common masonry of brick ovens is bonder and spoon. Those. from the front side of the brick wall, we can only see these two sides of the brick. There is also bedding, but it is extremely rare to find it, because it is not used for brickwork of stoves. When laying, the vertical joints between the bricks must not line up.

The brickwork of the stoves begins from the first row, constantly checking according to the scheme where the masonry is located. In this work, haste will be a bad helper, the main thing is quality. If you are new to construction, it is better to initially lay each row without mortar, referring to the drawings. And only after making sure that the entire installation is correct, apply the mortar to the bricks and lay them completely.

The seam thickness should be at least 2 mm, but not more than 3 mm, so it is better to remove excess clay immediately. In some cases, the seam thickness is exactly 5 mm. The brick must be placed immediately in the right place, its further movement and tapping is unacceptable.

The excess clay mixture removed from the bricks cannot be reused.

Below is the instruction for masonry:

To lay a brick oven for a house with your own hands, it will take a lot of free time. Each brick has its own importance. If you approach the issue efficiently and responsibly, the end result will be warmth and comfort in your home.