Step-by-step instructions for repairing a bathroom and toilet. How to carry out a quality bathroom renovation without the involvement of specialists from outside

August 5, 2016
Specialization: a professional in the field of construction and repair (a full cycle of finishing work, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing work), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

If you decide to master the technology of finishing work, then do-it-yourself toilet repair will be an excellent training for you: a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room will significantly reduce time and financial costs, and at the same time you will be able to practice performing a variety of operations.

Of course, the repair and design of the toilet can be implemented according to a variety of schemes, but in this article I will give the most common option, which takes into account the preparation for finishing, the tiling of the floor and walls, the installation of a false ceiling, and the installation of plumbing.

Preparatory stage

Preparing the room

So, initially we are dealing with a small room: for example, in the 137th series of standard apartments, the dimensions of the toilet are 120x85 cm. Therefore, we need to implement the most compact design option, while using materials that are affordable and not too difficult to work with.

When deciding where to start repairing the toilet, it is worth assessing its original condition. And if it becomes obvious that a complete reconstruction is required to bring the premises into a decent appearance, we will first of all remove the old finish. For this:

1. We dismantle the toilet, disconnecting it from the sewer riser and water supply, and then removing it from the stand that fixes the product to the floor.
2. We inspect the condition of the pipes, and if they require replacement, we dismantle them as well.
3. We remove old finishes - tiles, wallpaper, paint, etc. To clean surfaces, we use either a perforator or a drill with a nozzle in the form of a stiff wire brush.

1. When a complete reconstruction is planned, we also dismantle the old wiring. If the wires are laid in deep strobes, then they can not be removed - just de-energize the branch and cut the conductors close to the wall.
2. After removing construction debris, we treat the surfaces with an antiseptic. This will allow us to avoid the appearance of fungi and bacteria after finishing.

Laying communications

At this stage, we need to lay all the communications that are responsible for the functioning of the bathroom. This includes sewer pipes, water supply pipes and electrical wiring.

In a panel house of a typical building, it is very often in the toilet that vertical risers with cold and hot water pass. In order not to carry out a comprehensive reconstruction, it is here that it is worth laying a distribution unit, hiding all pipe bends in a special cabinet or box.

When doing toilet repairs, I usually do this:

1. First, I lay a sewer pipe connecting the toilet to the riser. Usually this segment does not differ in significant length, therefore it can be laid with a minimum slope towards the drain. I choose a branch pipe for direct connection in such a way that it matches the configuration of the toilet bowl outlet - straight or inclined.
2. At the same stage, I lay drain pipes connecting the sewer riser to the bathroom and. I fix the pipes on the wall with clamps, making sure that a slope of about 2 cm per linear meter is maintained.

1. I cut a tee into the cold water supply riser, to which I connect the outlet for the drain tank. If it is planned to install a washstand in the bathroom (such options are implemented in visits to a larger area), I make two separate taps with cold and hot water to connect to the mixer. They should be made hidden, so you will have to cut separate strobes under the pipes.

Consider in advance whether you need a boiler. If you need it (even if you do not plan to install it right now) - immediately lay the piping for its installation.

1. I lay the wiring for installing a socket for a water heater in a strobe. For ceiling lighting, I run a cable in a corrugated plastic channel, which I fix with wire hangers.

1. From a wooden beam impregnated with an antiseptic, or from a metal profile, I form a box for masking risers, piping and other elements. It should be sheathed immediately before finishing - so we will not damage the drywall in the course of other work.

Actually, this is where the preparatory operations end. After that, we move on to finishing.

Toilet finishing

Ceiling

When thinking about how to make repairs in the toilet, we must first approve the order of finishing work.

Masters practice a variety of schemes, but I still prefer to move from top to bottom - this minimizes the likelihood of staining or damaging the “finishing” area, and I don’t have to spend time masking already finished surfaces with film, cloth, newspapers, etc.

It is for these reasons that I prefer to start with the repair of the ceiling:

1. Along the perimeter of the room in the upper part, I beat off a straight line at a distance of about 50 - 70 mm from the ceiling.

The offset depends on the dimensions of the recessed fixtures. If you plan to use small lamps, then 40 mm may be enough.

1. Along the line, I install either a starting profile made of galvanized steel or a wooden beam on the walls.
2. I attach guides to the ceiling with the help of metal suspensions: I also make them either from a bar or from a metal profile. Fixing all parts to the bearing surfaces is carried out using dowels for express installation.
3. After completing the work on the frame, I bring the wires to the places where they will be installed.

1. To the profile fixed along the perimeter, I attach a special ceiling plinth with a groove for plastic panels. For fastening to a tree, I use galvanized staples, which I hammer with a construction stapler.
2. The most inexpensive, but at the same time practical option is to cover the ceiling with plastic panels. I cut the PVC lining to size, after which I install it on the ceiling: the ends must be inserted into the grooves of the plinth, and the edges of the locks should be fixed on the frame bars with a stapler.

1. In the selected place, I make a hole in the plastic panel, through which I bring out the wires to connect the lamp. I usually put the device itself at the very end of the repair, so a temporary construction of an incandescent lamp with a cartridge tied to the wires with electrical tape is used for lighting.

Walls

After completing the work on the ceiling, I move on to the walls. The best option here would be tiling: a small area significantly reduces purchase costs and minimizes labor costs, but the finish is hygienic and durable.

The sequence of work in this case will be as follows:

1. I check the walls with a level, and if necessary, I perform a rough leveling. For high-quality cladding, it is important that the differences along the plane do not exceed 5 mm per 1 m - anything less can be compensated for by varying the thickness of the adhesive layer.

When leveling, it is advisable to first try to knock down all the protrusions with a perforator, and then grind the concrete surfaces. The thing is that plastering surfaces, and even in a room such as a bathroom, is difficult, long and expensive.

1. I treat the walls with an antiseptic primer: it not only improves the adhesion of the adhesive composition, but also prevents the formation of fungal colonies under the tiles.
2. I sheathe the frame of the box with pipes with moisture-resistant drywall.
3. I soak the tile in water for about 2-3 hours. This trick allows you to greatly improve the adhesion to the glue, which is important, especially if you do not have enough experience and work slowly.

1. I prepare the adhesive mixture by diluting the dry component in cool water. I mix the glue thoroughly with a nozzle on a drill: you need to do this at least twice so that there are no lumps.

Now I'm going to start tiling:

1. I take a level and mark the walls, drawing lines along the bottom edge of each row. I make indents between rows: the thicker the tile, the wider the seam can be.
2. Using a grater, I apply a layer of glue to the wall. With the serrated edge of the tool, I form grooves for even distribution of the composition.
3. It is important not to apply glue on too large an area. Be guided by howling speed of work: the surface of the adhesive composition should not dry out!
4. According to the markup, I apply the tile to the wall, press it and level it. With a spatula, carefully remove the protruding excess glue.
5. To maintain the same thickness of all seams, I install plastic remote crosses.

Tiles on the walls are laid in rows, from top to bottom. To get a beautiful pattern, you can arrange elements with an offset - while the tiles in each next row are shifted by 1/2 of the width. The accuracy of laying is checked using a level and a plumb line, if necessary, the position of the tile is adjusted and the adhesive composition is added / removed.

After finishing the lining, I give the surfaces 12 hours for the glue to polymerize, and then I rub the seams. Grout is a paste that fills the gaps between the tiles: this way we will not only improve the appearance of the room, but also protect the base from moisture penetration.

When the grout dries, I will have the last, purely cosmetic step: wash the tiled lining and wipe it with a clean, dry rag. If we were careful enough to remove excess adhesive and grout from the surface in time, then this task would not require any significant effort.

Floor

Before I repair the floor in the toilet with my own hands, I usually evaluate its condition. In most cases, restoration of the waterproofing layer is required, therefore the first part of the work on the flooring is carried out before the walls are finished.

1. To begin with, the base is once again cleaned of dust and debris and impregnated with a penetrating primer.
2. Then, with my own hands, I apply a waterproofing mastic based on bitumen or liquid rubber. This layer protects the ceiling and the premises below it from leaks, therefore it is worth forming the so-called “trough” here - waterproofing not only the floor, but also the walls to a height of about 15 cm.

1. On top of the waterproofing, I pour a leveling screed up to 50 mm thick. For pouring, I use self-leveling compounds with fast hardening: their price is higher than that of a standard cement-sand mixture, but they also save work time, and at times.

1. After the screed has dried (at best it will take three to four days, at worst, if we saved on materials, we will have to wait two to three weeks) I treat the floor surface with soil.
2. For work, I choose only floor tiles: they are both stronger and less slippery. Attempts to use cheaper wall tiles will lead to the fact that after a couple of years the floor will have to be shifted.

1. On the base with a grater I apply cement-based tile adhesive. I evenly distribute the adhesive composition over the surface of about 1m2 and proceed to the cladding.
2. I lay the tiles either in rows or alternating in accordance with the planned pattern, for example, tiling in black and white.
3. As in the case of wall decoration, I maintain the width of the gaps using spacers.

1. After facing, I let the glue dry, rub the seams, dry the grout, wash it and wipe the floor.

Installation and connection of plumbing

The repair of the toilet itself ends here, but we still have to install the equipment. No special difficulties are foreseen here, but it will take a lot of work, especially if, in addition to the toilet, you also need a washstand:

1. We install the toilet bowl on the floor in the chosen place, using either a special rubber lining or a wooden board impregnated with a moisture-proof compound.
2. In place of the mounting holes, we make notes, remove the toilet bowl and drill nests with a perforator to fix the product.

1. We hammer dowels into the nests, install the toilet in place and fix it with anchor bolts. At the same time, the outlet of the toilet bowl is either brought directly into the sewer pipe, or connected to it using a flexible corrugation.

1. From above we install a tank, which we fix on the base with screws with union nuts.
2. We attach a hose with cold water to the side or bottom of the tank.
3. We apply the sink to the wall and mark the attachment points.
4. According to the marking, we drill holes into which, as in the case of the toilet bowl, we hammer plastic dowels.

1. Next, we either fasten the brackets to the wall, on which we install the washstand, or fix the sink itself on the base using anchors with union nuts.
2. We connect a siphon to the sink drain, which we connect with a flexible corrugation to the sewer pipe.
3. We install the mixer, bringing flexible hoses with cold and hot water to it.
4. After completing all these manipulations, it will be possible to check the performance of the system and check the absence of leaks.
5. Then we take the prepared recessed fixtures, connect the wires to their terminals and install the lamps in the holes on the ceiling.

Our toilet is ready and ready to use!

The cost of consumables

To answer the question of how much it will cost to repair a bathroom, you need to know its area, and what materials will be used, and whether we will do the finishing on our own or turn to specialists. However, even with the most accurate estimates, the estimate tends to increase, so it is worth putting about 30% more money into the budget than it turns out according to the calculations.

To facilitate budgeting, I advise you to use the table containing the estimated prices for materials used in the repair of the bathroom. Of course, this information is for reference only (prices in online stores were taken as the basis), but it gives an idea of ​​the order of numbers in full:

Material	unit of measurement	Cost, rubles
Mastic waterproofing	5 kg	1100 — 1600
Tile adhesive CM 9	25 kg	250 — 450
Grout for tiles	5 kg	600 – 1200
Penetrating primer with antiseptic	5 l	250 — 500
Floor leveling compound	25 kg	280 – 750
Tiles for walls budget	m2	45 — 90
Tiles for walls of the middle price category	m2	250 -500
Ceramic floor tiles	m2	250 – 2500
Acrylic paint for interior work	5 kg	200 – 500
Profile for drywall	panel 3 m	50 — 150
Drywall hanger	PC.	5 — 25
Wooden beam for the frame	panel 6 m	80 — 200
PVC lining for ceiling lining	m2	150 -250
Sewer pipe for outdoor work 110 mm	1 m.	125 — 200
Sewer pipe for interior work 50 mm	1 m.	75 — 150
Metal-plastic water pipe 16 mm	1 m.	70 — 120
Compression fitting for metal-plastic pipe	PC.	250 — 500
Mixer with short spout	PC.	1500 — 2200
Inexpensive washstand Santeri	PC.	900
Toilet-compact Santek	PC.	3100 — 3500

In addition, when calculating how to make repairs in the bathroom, you need to consider that we will need other little things like fasteners, sealants, gaskets, etc. So the budget reserve mentioned above will definitely not be superfluous.

Conclusion

Toilet repair is a kind of training ground for “running in” the skills of a novice builder, finisher, plumber and electrician. Based on the recommendations given, the tips in the comments and the video in this article, you will be able to lay the foundations of your skill, and in the future successfully cope with much more complex projects.

Roman Wide

Reading time: 6 minutes

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Hello dear readers! Continuing the topic of repair, I will tell you how to start repairing the bathroom and toilet with your own hands. Surely many renovating these premises are faced with this issue.

If you are the owner of an apartment in which the bathroom is located separately from the toilet, I advise you to start do-it-yourself repairs at home by working out the same color scheme and style. Even if the rooms are separated, it is one whole. The design is chosen the same or similar in type of finishing materials used and color.

Toilet and bathroom are kind of twins. I advise you to tile the premises with tiles of the same type, but of a different shade. If you use the same finishing technique, you will get dissimilar rooms that will create a different mood. If the walls and floor are made in the same color, but with different finishing materials, discomfort will appear due to the contrast between the rooms.

Video tips

I think now you understand why it is better to use the same tiles and decor for finishing the bathroom and toilet. This approach will save you money. After finishing, trimmings will remain, which are likely to find a place in the second room.

How to start a bathroom renovation

A bathroom is a room in which a person is left alone with thoughts and emotions. Here he takes a shower, relaxes, rests after a hard day, gets rid of irritation and fatigue, gets a boost of energy.

The described effect will bring only a convenient and comfortable bathroom.

Bathroom renovation step by step

1. Measure the room . Take a piece of paper, a pencil, a tape measure and measure the length and height of the walls, the area of ​​the room. Based on the figures obtained, calculate the amount of materials that will be required to repair the bathroom.
2. Mentally imagine a new bathroom . Decide on the color and type of finishing materials, the location of the bath, furniture and accessories.
3. Prepare the room . Clean the walls and ceiling of the bathroom from the old finish. The work is dusty and dirty, so wear a respirator. You will need a puncher, spatula, metal brush and other tools.
4. Treat the walls with a primer . Lay the wiring and level the ceiling with putty. At this stage, mark the vertical and horizontal lines with a level or plumb line.
5. Plumbing replacement . A responsible step, I do not advise saving on it. We are talking about replacing the plumbing, risers and sewerage in the bathroom.
6. Floor waterproofing . Making a cement screed, water will not seep to the neighbors. Treat the joints between the walls and the floor, the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bathroom with a special waterproofing solution.
7. For wall and floor decoration . Try tiling your bathroom yourself. If there are no skills, ask a tiler for help. Some, for the sake of economy, do not veneer the place behind and under the bathroom. It is better to veneer the planes, and put the bath on the tile. The screen will help to hide the side and communications.
8. Door installation . If you are going to replace your bathroom door, do it before tiling.
9. Plinth and ceiling . At the end, install a decorative plinth along the perimeter of the ceiling, and paint the ceiling with water-based paint. If this option for finishing the ceiling in the bathroom is not suitable, pay attention to stretch ceilings or plastic panel structures. It remains to seal the seams.

Video instructions

Following the instructions, you will reach the final stage. At the end, install the sink, hang a mirror and lamp, install furniture. The end result is a beautiful room.

Where to start repairing the toilet

People face difficulties when renovating the toilet room. The toilet is an important part of housing, which I advise you to repair thoroughly and correctly, taking into account all the little things. Where to start the painstaking process, I will tell below.

1. As with the bathroom, I advise you to start repairing the toilet with the preparation of the room. First of all, remove the old toilet bowl, remove old finishing materials from the walls, floor and ceiling.
2. Supply water and sewer to the installation site of the new toilet. If the sewerage system in the apartment is made of cast iron pipes, replace with plastic products. If pipe replacement is not planned, limit yourself to a plastic supply. It is better to connect pipes using special inserts. Do not forget about the slope that is required for the normal functioning of the sewer.
3. Pay attention to communications. If they run along the wall, close them in a box. Be sure to make sure that the box is removed or disassembled. This makes it easier to troubleshoot problems caused by leakage.
4. Before starting plastering, set up beacons on the walls of the toilet. Using as a guide, line up the walls. After the plaster has dried, lay the tile.
5. Switch to floor. First, make a concrete screed, and after drying, lay the tile. Do not immediately install the toilet, it will interfere with work in the upper part of the room.
6. There are many options for finishing the walls of the toilet. What finishing material to choose is up to you, but I advise tiles. If such a cladding is not to your liking, the market offers photo wallpapers, mosaic tiles, natural stone or wood finishes.
7. Take care of the ceiling. Plasterboard ceiling is suitable for the toilet room. It will hide the wiring and ventilation system. If you add a decorative plinth, you get beauty.
8. Lastly, install a lamp in the toilet, secure the toilet bowl and attach a paper holder to the wall. I advise you to immediately understaff the toilet with shelves for storing air freshener and stocks of toilet paper.

After going through a difficult path, in the end you will get a result that will delight you with freshness and originality. But more pleasure will bring the thought that the author of the masterpiece is yourself.

How to start repairs in a combined bathroom

The combined bathroom has advantages and disadvantages. The main disadvantage is that the room is available only to one household. Plus - the ability to expand the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bathroom. A washing machine or a closet for accessories can be easily placed in the combined bathroom.

In modern apartments, the toilet is separate from the bathroom. At the same time, the premises are characterized by a small area and there are often cases when a few centimeters are not enough to install furniture or another object. To fully consider the issue, consider how to combine a bathroom and a toilet.

How to combine bathroom and toilet

This type of repair, in addition to construction work, provides for "paperwork". According to the rules, redevelopment in the apartment is coordinated with the relevant authorities. At the same time, changes are made to the housing plan.

When creating a preliminary plan, note the relocation of plumbing, changes in electrical wiring and plumbing systems. This is an incomplete list of factors that should not be ignored. Work on combining a bathroom is a small technical part of a huge job.

After approving the plan, switch to repairs. It is better if the household members go on a summer vacation for a while. As a result, they will protect themselves from discomfort, and no one will interfere with you.

• Demolish the partition between the bathroom and the toilet, level the walls, which are usually extremely crooked.
• Redo the pipes. If necessary, change their location so that they do not interfere. The same goes for the heated towel rail.
• The next step involves laying electrical wiring. Route cables, locate switches and outlets, and install.
• Coat the walls with a primer and level the floor with a concrete screed. Before laying the floor covering, whether it is a tile or other finishing material, fill the floor with bitumen. This will reduce the likelihood of flooding neighbors during a leak.
• Stretch ceilings are a good option for a combined node. Just entrust their installation to professionals, as the arrangement of the ceiling involves the use of special equipment and skills.
• Finish the walls and lay the flooring. To visually expand the space of the room, build a large mirror into each wall. The combined bathroom will turn out beautiful and original.
• The final stage of the repair involves the installation of plumbing, furniture placement, connection of household appliances, installation of bath accessories - hanging soap dishes, hooks.

If you want to achieve results, listen to the recommendations. They will help to speed up and successfully complete the repair. When the family returns home, the beauty of the combined bathroom will surprise.

The choice of furniture and the layout of the bathroom

I devote the final part of the article to the layout of the bathroom and the intricacies of choosing furniture. If you have finances, organize a separate bathroom in the house, especially if the family is large. As a result, several people will be able to relieve their needs at the same time. If you like a combined bathroom, make sure that it has a sliding partition. With its help, divide the room into zones.

Room size. To make the toilet convenient and comfortable, allocate a few square meters for the arrangement. Excess space is not required. Design a bathroom according to tastes and preferences, but you should not overdo it with space - 6-10 squares are enough.

Furniture . Before buying furniture, decide what you want to see in the room. Usually this is a set of a sink, a mirror, a pencil case and a floor cabinet. Sometimes a hanging cabinet is provided. Before buying a bath set, make sure the quality. On the surface of the furniture, the paint should lie in an even layer.

Accessories. From accessories, choose models equipped with chrome-plated legs, handles and metal hinges. They also make accessories from plastic, covering with a layer of chromium. You should not buy such furniture, because chrome-plated or gold-plated plastic handles will quickly lose their original appearance.

Sink . Be sure to inspect the sink for chips and damage. Check the integrity of the product by light tapping. Buy a sink that makes a pleasant ringing. A dull sound is a sign of defects.

Bedside tables and cabinets. When choosing bedside tables and lockers, be guided by the size of the room, the number of residents and tastes. If there is more than enough space, buy a large set that will fit hair dryer, curling iron, shampoos and other things. If there is a problem with the area, pay attention to a set of cabinets and several hanging drawers.

Do-it-yourself toilet repair is not one of the most difficult jobs - the combination of temperature and humidity in the toilet room rarely goes beyond the usual for living quarters. It is only necessary to remember that the toilet is an exclusively functional room, and everything in it must be subordinated to a very specific goal: to ensure the best functioning of the smooth muscles of the excretory organs.

It does not at all follow from this that we are going to talk about things that cannot be said. On the contrary, we will describe how to make an inexpensive repair of the toilet, while turning it into a room that is cozy, comfortable and peaceful. Even Galen and Avicenna wrote that for the sake of health and longevity, natural needs should be sent in a good mood and with pleasure. Modern medicine fully confirms their conclusions.

Repair stages

Step-by-step repair of the toilet includes the following stages of work:

1. choice of type, place and method of installation of the toilet bowl;
2. design development;
3. selection and purchase of materials;
4. cleaning the floor, walls, ceiling;
5. laying communications;
6. floor repair;
7. plumbing cabinet;
8. wall and ceiling repairs;
9. floor finishing;
10. installation of lighting, ventilation, washbasin, urinal, bidet;
11. wall, sanitary cabinet, ceiling decoration;
12. door replacement.

Repairs that do not involve the replacement of plumbing and complex construction work (cosmetic) are much simpler and will be described in a separate section. And now let's look at the stages of how to make repairs in the toilet.

Toilet

For the sake of it, in fact, the toilet was created. When choosing this device, you should first of all think: is it possible to put a hanging toilet bowl?

The faucet, washbasin spout and shower diffuser built into the wall are nothing more than a tribute to fashion. Their technical and economic feasibility, to put it mildly, is very, very doubtful: the slightest malfunction is tantamount to a breakthrough, hence the exorbitant high cost of devices with their lower reliability at times. In some countries, building codes already outright prohibit them.

But the toilet is a completely different matter. It is difficult to clean the floor around its pedestal, and especially the corner under the outlet, and if you take a smear there and submit it for analysis to the SES ... the faint of heart are asked to refrain from viewing.

Under the wall-mounted toilet there is a flat, easy-to-clean floor. You can’t make a niche in the wall for it in our typical house - the wall thickness is not enough - but in any toilet, the suspension bracket and the flush tank are very simply covered by a sanitary cabinet that does not allow dirt to accumulate in the nooks and crannies. And the repair of a small toilet in this case simultaneously solves another important sanitary and hygienic problem, which will be discussed in its place.

Design

Requirements for the design of the toilet based on the needs of physiology are justified by a huge amount of material, from the works of archaeologists studying the camps of primitive people to the latest research in the field of molecular biology. The basis is a simple fact: biological evolution is at a snail's pace compared to the development of civilization, and physiologically we are the same as our distant ancestors in skins and with a gnarled oak tree in their hands-hooks.

Without going into details, not without interest for readers who are not prone to hypocrisy, but requiring a lot of space for description, we summarize:

• Small details, especially colorful ones, are unacceptable: they create a subconscious feeling of anxiety that knocks down the work of the intestines.
• You should also avoid bright, saturated and flashy tones in the color scheme; pastel colors are preferred.
• The overall tone should "cold" from the bottom up, losing at the same time juiciness.
• Solid vertical planes that give the impression of open space are also undesirable.
• The walls should be divided vertically into two sections: from the floor to the level of the eyes or chin of the inmate and above - to the ceiling.
• Dense overhead planes also have a bad effect on physiology.

Note: pastel colors are also good because the inevitable change in color tone in the toilet (see below) is not so noticeable in them.

Based on this, the physiologically justified color design of the toilet looks something like this:

1. The floor is rather dark, yellowish, brownish or grayish.
2. Walls to a height of 90-120 cm (3-4 rows of tiles 30x30 cm) - desaturated red-brown with specks or very light gray, also with specks.
3. The walls are higher and up to the ceiling - beige, mustard, cream, etc. It is possible with a flat relief or a faded blurry pattern.
4. Ceiling - pale blue, pale cream or pearl gray.

materials

When choosing materials for repairing a toilet, you need to consider the following:

• A lot is spilled on the floor in the toilet in exceptional cases, but what is spilled even in negligible amounts is saturated with BAS (biologically active substances) and very active chemical compounds.
• Compared to the bathroom, a little evaporates into the air in the toilet, but most of the fumes are chemically active, strongly and unpleasantly smelling substances: ammonia, unsaturated and cyclic hydrocarbons, etc.

Such circumstances impose certain restrictions on the selection of materials:

1. Any wood and products based on it (MDF, laminate) should be discarded - they are porous and organic. The fact that small splashes from a silly child or a guest who has had a hard time are immediately absorbed is only good at first glance. In fact, pleasant to the touch and pleasing to the eye, a teak, yew or cork floor will quickly become a haven for germs. They do not spray on the ceiling, but the vapors rise first of all towards it.
2. Also undesirable tiles based on ordinary silicates (not white from the inside). Chemically, it is neutral, but it has a lot of micropores, and it absorbs odors and keeps it well. You will have to use deodorant more often, but it costs money and is not a natural part of the air.
3. Washable PVC wallpaper should be treated with care, because of the filler. It can also absorb volatile compounds. You should buy either certified or from a trusted manufacturer.
4. A conventional floor screed is also undesirable, even with the addition of a polymer emulsion: its moisture absorption coefficient can reach 0.4% by volume. For the bathroom, this is more than good, but in the toilet it is not water with a small admixture of fragrant shampoo that gets on the floor.
5. Suspended ceiling Armstrong is excluded: it is highly porous, and even made from chemically unstable organic matter - paper production waste.
6. Any paper wallpaper, no matter how they modify it, for the same reason.
7. Any paints with organic pigment and filler: from the most insignificant miasma, they very soon turn yellow, gray and take on a completely vile appearance.
8. Styrofoam ceiling panels - for the same reason.

Here are some tips for repairing a toilet:

• On the cladding - porcelain stoneware. Dense, chemically resistant and durable material is slightly more expensive than tiles. And the percentage of manufacturing defects is much lower than that of inexpensive tiles, so in general it comes out cheaper.
• Tiles - faience or another based on kaolin (white from the inside and with a shiny fine-grained break).
• Paints - on a mineral pigment and a filler from marble flour (microcalcite). Somewhat worse with a filler of dolomite flour, but with skillful painting for 7-10 years, they are also enough.
• Washable wallpaper - their polypropylene, polyester or foam.
• Drywall - only moisture resistant, green.
• Drywall profiles - galvanized or aluminum.
• Plaster - any, but with mandatory impregnation with a roller after hardening with a primer on deep penetration concrete.
• Waterproofing - aquaizol or polyester.
• Floor screed - base and liquid polymer finishing.

Note: self-leveling floors were invented primarily for toilets, as a replacement for useless cement-sand screed anywhere in them. They are not cheap, but the toilet and consumption is small. If we take into account the backfill, selected sand, fittings, beacons, a tool for concrete screed, but on a small area, the self-leveling floor comes out even cheaper.

Sewer replacement

Replacing the sewer in an apartment is a difficult job and. Here we only add a little: in front of the cross, it is advisable to insert a tee with a 32 mm branch pipe into the outlet from the bathroom and kitchen. When repairing a small toilet in a panel house, it is very useful, see the section on the arrangement of a washbasin in the Khrushchev toilet.

Room cleaning

Cleaning the toilet before repair is easier than the bathroom, but it has its own characteristics:

1. Before getting off the floor, carefully inspect the toilet mounts (assuming all plumbing is removed immediately). The laboriousness of work on the floor and the cost of them largely depend on their condition, see the section on repairing the floor.
2. Both the floor and the walls do not need to be dug up to bare masonry, slabs or ceilings: the bulk of the plaster and screed in the toilets, as a rule, do not deteriorate even in damp block Khrushchevs.
3. Tiles can be knocked down rough, without cleaning the floor to a smooth surface: with a self-leveling screed, small irregularities are insignificant.
4. The paint and the top layer of plaster from the ceiling and walls are dusty, but easy to clean off with a drill and a round metal brush. With some skill, you can then immediately paint, glue tiles and wallpaper.
5. The skill of cleaning with a brush is developed quite quickly, so it is better to start cleaning from the surfaces covered in the future with a sanitary cabinet: there the flaws will disappear forever.
6. At the end of the stripping, the walls and ceiling must be vacuumed and treated with a roller with a deep penetration primer on concrete. While you are messing with the floor, the walls and ceiling will be completely ready for painting, gluing and cladding.

Laying communications

If the toilet is being repaired in Khrushchev, then there is no choice regarding hydraulics and sewerage: they remain where they were. The mini-washstand (which we will talk about ahead) does not require much trouble.

In the case when the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room allows you to install additional sanitary and hygienic devices, then the pipes for them will have to be hidden in the walls, otherwise they will spoil the whole view. The laying technology is the same as in the bathroom: solid brazed propylene on solid propylene fittings in strobes. At the end of the installation, the strobes are foamed. There are two features, as the Americans say, good and bad:

• It is not worth plastering the strobes in the walls: they will be perfectly glued with tiles.
• It is impossible to hide pipes in the floor or let them in a bunch in the corners, covering them with slopes: the first will create places for the accumulation of miasma, and the second, in addition, will be conspicuous and significantly reduce the floor area, which is not redundant anyway. So a hammer drill with a chisel on concrete will have to work hard.

If “replacement” is understood as taking off, painting and putting it back on, then remember: you need to paint only in a horizontal position, otherwise it will not do without streaks. Paint - the same as the others for the toilet. White, in order of preference - titanium, lead (do not be afraid, this is not free lead, they are not poisonous), zinc. The latter turn yellow from traces of ammonia in the air after 3-4 years; titanium ones are almost eternal.

Redecorating

Redecoration of the toilet assumes that the matter is limited to finishing and painting, and all plumbing fixtures remain in place. In this case, the decoration of the walls and ceiling does not differ from the one already described, and the floor is easier to handle:

• We remove the plinth.
• The perimeter of the room and the circumference of the riser (or the contour of the cross, if it is semi-recessed into the floor, are sealed with silicone.
• Option 1: pour a liquid polymer self-leveling floor with a layer of 10-15 mm onto the floor directly on the previous tile. Calculation of volume - according to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.
• Option 2: we lay marmoleum, having previously removed the toilet bowl. Cheaper, and rusted fasteners can be replaced. With serviceable fastenings on a sheet of marmoleum in places for bolts, we make cross-shaped cuts (this way you do not need to measure with jewelry accuracy), and after laying, the excess is cut off with a mounting knife.
• We put the plinth in place - it's ready.

Toilet BEFORE and AFTER cosmetic repairs without replacing communications

Toilet with a washstand in Khrushchev

Look again at the picture with the bathroom closet. Yes, there is a small washstand, and you can immediately wash your hands right there. But where to get one? In railway cars, they even cost more ... Do it yourself:

1. Spout - ready, goose, with the smallest possible extension.
2. Sink - a plastic reusable deep bowl with a narrow bottom and a top edge bent down. The choice is rich, the prices are inexpensive.
3. Water supply - metal-plastic pipes-henks, as in a sink in the kitchen from tees on pipes.
4. Outlet - 32 mm corrugation into a tee on the outlet from the bathroom with the kitchen (that's what it is for!).
5. Siphon - due to the bending of the corrugation.

The alternative is a miniature sink. But you have to look for it.

How do you make a shell out of a bowl? First, in the center of the bottom of the bowl we drill 4 holes of 4 mm each, inscribed in a circle with a diameter of 30 mm; this will be the grid. Then we cut out a round boss from plywood 12-18 mm: outer diameter - according to the diameter of the bottom of the bowl, excluding the collar; internal - 35 mm. We impregnate the boss with PVA emulsion. Then we glue the boss with AQUARIUM silicone glue to the bottom of the bowl and glue the corrugation into it with the same silicone.

Now it remains to cut holes in the sanitary cabinet shelf with a circular drill on stone (the cabinet is already tiled) for a bowl with a diameter along the upper diameter of the bowl; then it will lie with a bent edge on the shelf, and under the spout. The main thing is not to miscalculate with the markup: the water should flow a little away from the very center of the sink-bowl so that it does not splash on the grid.

And, finally, we fix the mini-sink with silicone, now it is already possible with a cheaper construction one. We put the corrugation into the sewer pipe, seal it with the same silicone. In the closet, we put a fixing nut on the spout handles, bring them out, attach it to the spout fittings, insert it into place, fix it with a nut - the mini-washstand is ready.

Note: do not glue the boss with construction silicone or superglue (cyanoacrylate glue). The first is not strong enough, and the joint on the second will fall apart in six months or a year.

Made repairs in the toilet and bathroom (separate bathroom). The bathroom is fine and so is the toilet. But there is one drawback. We live on the fifth floor and downstairs on the fourth there is a lot of audibility from when you relieve yourself. According to the neighbor, it seems that the need is relieved in the next room and the doors are open at the same time. The toilet is on tile and sealant. Tiles on the floor and on the walls. What can provoke such audibility. I would not believe it, but I really heard it myself when I went down to the neighbors. It's just that they really have audibility like in a public closet. What can someone tell me what to do?

We have a separate toilet, but small, everyone was thinking how to make repairs there quickly, efficiently, but inexpensively. First they changed the toilet. They decided to clad the walls with PVC panels, they chose beige with stains, they glued them directly on liquid nails to the wall, without crates, since the walls are absolutely even. The pipes were hidden in a gypsum plasterboard box, and also panels. There are white panels on the ceiling, commercial linoleum on the floor, it is non-slip and washes well. It turned out pretty well and at a minimum cost.

Here, the repair of an apartment, housing, and indeed any premises requires certain skills and investments. Especially if they started the repair on their own, messed up with the choice of floor tiles, and then a professional in this matter redid it. As they already understood, I had a jamb with a choice of tiles - they bought it in a store near the house, put it, but it seemed slippery for the toilet. The toilet is combined with the bathroom, so it's damp there, especially after a shower, etc. Tip: carefully choose the tiles on the floor.

At the expense of closing the riser with roller shutters, a wonderful idea. Usually there is a revision on the riser to clean the sewer. Can be covered with plastic. In which case it will be easy to dismantle and reuse it.

At the first stage, I got rid of the old toilet ....
Next, I primed the walls, puttyed them, and after several hours of hard work, the tiles were in place. As I said, it’s better to take more, because you don’t know where and how it will converge. It helped that I took a little more. Immediately on the same day I painted the ceiling. A few days later, a brand new toilet was installed. The easiest installation of roller shutters.
As you can see, there is nothing complicated in all this, the main thing is a great desire! I wish you all a good way to redo your toilet)

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"Last generation", modern finishing materials, as well as radically new technological solutions for interior design, many have a desire to transform their homes. And in order to better understand how certain finishing materials are mounted, it is best to start with the smallest room in the apartment - the bathroom.

Do-it-yourself toilet repair is quite realistic if you know where to start this process, what materials you can use for this, and how to install certain components of this specific room.

Starting repairs in this room, it is necessary to foresee that if you plan to completely replace all plumbing and pipe wiring, and not just tidy up the walls and ceiling, you will have to spend a lot of money. The work of the construction team will also be expensive - that is why it makes sense to try your hand at the role of a builder and designer.

Preparatory activities

Like any construction work, toilet repair begins with the preparation of tools, the purchase of materials, the dismantling of old plumbing accessories, cleaning the surfaces of walls, floors, and ceilings.

Tools

You need to start with tools, as they are necessary both for the preparatory work and for the repair itself. Of the building tools you need to have:

• Screwdriver with bit set or, last resort, a set of screwdrivers - for dismantling old accessories fixed to the walls, and then for installing new ones.
• Perforator - for removing concrete baseboards, if any, and old tiles from walls and floors. In the future, it will be needed for drilling holes.
• Gas wrench - will be needed for unscrewing and tightening threaded connections when dismantling and installing sinks, toilets and pipes.
• Brushes and rollers - for applying primers and coating waterproofing materials.
• Notched trowel - for applying tile adhesive to the surface.
• If metal pipes are changed to plastic ones, then it will be necessary to prepare an apparatus for welding them and a special pipe cutter.
• Roulette and folding rule - for carrying out the necessary measurements and markings.
• Building level and plumb line - to control the accuracy of the vertical and horizontal during finishing work, plumbing installation.
• Other plumbing and carpentry tools - hammer, chisels, files, chisels, hacksaws and others - as needed.

Dismantling old plumbing fixtures

When all the necessary tools are at hand, you can start dismantling work.

• The first step to take is to shut off cold and hot water from the central plumbing system. The taps must be completely closed.
• Next comes the dismantling. plumbing - sinks, if it is installed in the toilet, and the toilet bowl.

It is necessary to take into account the fact that if during the repair the family is not going to leave the apartment, then it will be very difficult to do without a toilet, therefore it is recommended to remove it last, and to remove it temporarily, only for the duration of the daily work, and then install and connect back to the sewer. This process is repeated until the repair is completed and a new toilet is installed in place of the old one. It's hard, but there's nothing you can do about it.

You can do otherwise - do not touch the toilet until the time comes to replace the pipes. True, you still have to return to the first option - it is unlikely that you will be able to do all the operations in one day.

Dismantling the sink

- after the To Before the apartment is disconnected from the water supply system, it is necessary to open all taps and make sure that there is no water left in the pipes. In addition, you need to flush the water from the toilet bowl, otherwise it may all be on the floor.

- Sinks are mounted on brackets fixed to the wall. Some of the models have a decorative pedestal that covers the sewer drain and water supply pipes. Additionally, the pedestal serves as a support for the bowl. Therefore, the dismantling of the sink begins with the removal of this particular element. The pedestal must be fixed to the floor, so the first step is to unscrew this mount.

— Hedged, you can twist the storage glass from the siphon, and the water accumulated in it is drained into the prepared container. After that, the sump glass can be put back in place, since the entire drain system will be dismantled. To do this, unscrew the nut installed at the bottom of the sink, with which the siphon and drain pipe are held. The nut can be easily unscrewed by hand if you turn it counterclockwise while supporting the siphon cup.

- Next, the siphon is removed from the pipe section on which it is installed, along with a hose that drains water into the sewer drain. Then, the entire system disconnected from the sink is removed from the sewer socket. The hole in the socket of the sewer pipe must be closed with a lid or plugged with a cloth rolled up in the form of a gag - so that the unpleasant smell of the sewer does not spread around the room.

- The next step is to disconnect the hoses supplying water to the mixer from the water supply system. To dismantle them, you will need to use a gas or adjustable wrench (in some cases it is more convenient to use a set of open-end wrenches - usually all plumbing connections in a bathroom or toilet - in the range from 19 to 30).

- Then the sink can be removed. If it is planned to install the same sink with the same mixer after repair, then it is left screwed to the bowl and taken out of the toilet room with it.

Dismantling the toilet

Having finished with the sink, proceed to the dismantling of the toilet and cistern.

- When dismantling the toilet, the water must also be shut off and water drained from the tank - this is a warning in case the process of removing it will take place on another day, after removing the sink.

- Then the tank is removed from the brackets if it is fixed on the wall and removed from the toilet. If it was installed on the toilet platform, then the corresponding fastening bolts are unscrewed, and the tank is removed.

- Now you can remove the "corrugation" (or other connecting pipe) from the outlet pipe of the toilet bowl, which goes to the sewer. She is removed from the toilet and pulled out of the socket of the sewer pipe. It is recommended to immediately discard this element of the system, and install a new one when installing the toilet bowl.

- The next step is to remove the toilet itself. To do this, bolts (sometimes screws or studs) are unscrewed from the holes, with which it was fixed to the floor. Fasteners are unscrewed with a wrench or screwdriver, depending on the type of fasteners.

- If the toilet was previously installed without the use of cement, only with the help of screws and sealant, then you should try to gently swing it and remove it from its place. If it was installed on a concrete solution, then it will not be so easy to knock it off its place, and in this case, in 99 cases out of 100, it is no longer possible to do without replacing the toilet bowl with a new one. The old one. most likely, it will give a crack or a split, it is immediately sent to the scrap.

- If it is planned to install the successfully removed toilet bowl in place after the repair, then it is temporarily taken out of the bathroom so that it does not interfere during work.

Cleaning surfaces from old coatings

Whatever finishing material for walls and floors is chosen, the old coating must be removed, since during its many years of operation it has probably been saturated with various odors that can remain in the room even after repair, which is highly undesirable.

The second reason the surfaces need to be cleaned is that the walls will not be able to be properly primed, which means that the decorative finish or adhesive will not be sufficiently adhesive to the wall. Finishing material will begin to flake off over time, and you will have to make repairs again.

• It is convenient to remove old ceramic tiles with a puncher by installing a flat-shaped chisel-blade.

Cleaning walls from paint with a hair dryer ...

• Painted walls can be cleaned with a blow dryer and trowel, or with a sander with a round wire brush.

... and with a wire brush

• If plaster was previously applied to the walls, then it is first soaked with water, and then removed with a thickened spatula (having a thickness of 2.5 ÷ 3 mm).

• Wallpaper from the walls is the easiest to remove - just like plaster, they need to be wetted and left for a while, then moistened again and removed from the surfaces with a spatula.

• After cleaning the surface of the walls and ceiling, proceed to the dismantling of the flooring.

Work can be done manually using a chisel, or just like removing the old coating from the walls with a puncher.

After removing the old decorative coating, the surfaces must be well leveled, removing small remnants of the removed material. If necessary, they are once again traversed with a grinder with a metal brush installed on it.

Primer and waterproofing

After cleaning the walls and floor, the garbage is taken out, then all surfaces are swept with a brush, and finally it is better to collect the dust with a powerful vacuum cleaner.

• Next, it is necessary to cover the surfaces with a deep penetration antiseptic primer, which will create excellent adhesion (adhesion) with the materials applied to them and keep the walls from mold colonies. The primer is applied at least twice, and the second time - only after the first has completely dried.

• After the primer dries, you can proceed to the waterproofing of the floor. Since the toilet is undergoing engineering communications - sewerage and plumbing, no one can rule out various emergencies. To avoid the risk of water leaking to the lower floors, high-quality waterproofing in the toilet, as well as in the bathroom, is a must.

There are many materials and methods waterproof floor, but the most accessible for use in an apartment is coating waterproofing, which is first applied at the joints of the wall and floor in strips 150 ÷ ​​180 mm wide.

• On top of the still wet coating, at the junctions of the planes of the walls and the floor, a waterproofing tape is laid and pressed well - it is recessed. It will additionally protect the joints from leaking in the event of a large amount of water on the floor.

• After the joints have dried, the waterproofing mass is applied to the entire floor and left to dry. If necessary, one or even two more layers are applied, each of which must dry well before the next is applied.

After the completion of the waterproofing process, proceed to the dismantling and installation of pipes.

Prices for different types of primer

Primer

Pipe replacement

If a major overhaul of the toilet is started, then, of course, it is better to immediately replace all the water pipes with new ones. Moreover, this process is necessary if the old system has been in operation for many years without repair.

It is better to replace metal pipes with plastic or metal-plastic ones. But first of all, the old ones are removed. They will have to be cut with a grinder - then they can be twisted using a gas wrench. Only after dismantling the old wiring to the place of its entry into the apartment, a new one will be mounted from new materials, installed in the same or another, more convenient place.

If there is no idea how to do it correctly, it is better to invite a specialist for such a task. He will draw up a diagram for the installation of all wiring, taking into account the location of water meters, water shut-off valves and connecting the installed pipes to the riser.

It would be optimal if the main water pipes - risers, passing through all floors, will be completely replaced throughout the entire entrance. Then all apartment owners will have the opportunity to change the pipes in their apartment at a convenient time for them without any problems by connecting to the new pipes of the riser.

Pipes are also a system of taps, filters, water meters and collectors.

The wiring diagram will be quite complicated if water filters for preliminary and deep cleaning and must fit into it. If these devices are not provided in the apartment, then the scheme will be quite simple - instead of metal pipes, on too most place new plastic ones are installed.

• The easiest to install is a tee pipe layout, so it is often used in the bathrooms of apartments.

1 - A branch pipe with a fitting for connecting an automatic washing machine or a toilet flush tank.

2 - Hot and cold water pipes with fittings for connecting a sink faucet.

3 - Hot and cold water pipes with connectors for connecting a bath faucet.

4 – Elbows (corners) for turning pipelines in the right direction.

5 - Tees, allowing you to make a branch from the main pipe.

6 - Check valves, allowing water to flow in only one direction, preventing it from flowing back.

7 - Hot water meter.

8 - Cold water meter.

9 - Pressure reducer, which stabilizes it in the apartment system - this installation is especially important if the pressure in the external system is not stable.

10 – Oblique coarse filters.

11 - Faucets (valves) to shut off the water supply to the apartment.

12 — Central risers of cold and hot water.

The disadvantage of the tee system is the uneven supply of water to different points of consumption with simultaneous use.

• The following diagram shows the common piping for the apartment according to the collector scheme. In it, each water intake point is connected individually to the installed collectors for hot and cold water. This allows you to achieve complete uniformity of water distribution and independence of water intake points from each other.

Obviously, if there is a desire to update the wiring system, making it a collector, then you will have to change the pipes in the entire apartment, where they are laid - the bathroom, the bathroom and the kitchen. Collectors are usually installed on the back wall of the toilet (usually water risers pass there or nearby) and close.

The figure shows one of the possible options for organizing a collector pipe distribution system in a city apartment:

1, 2 and 3 - valves, through which it is possible to organize either a direct supply of hot water to the intra-apartment wiring, or through an installed heated towel rail

4 – Main faucet at the hot water inlet.

5 – An oblique pre-filter that traps large particles from the central pipeline.

6 – Water meters respectively for hot and cold water.

7 – Fine mechanical filters. Very often they are additionally equipped with pressure gauges.

8 – Pressure reducers.

9 - Collectors - combs, to which cold and hot water pipes are connected, going to all points of water intake.

10 – Main tap at the cold water inlet.

The diagram also shows a storage water heater embedded in the overall system. Naturally, when the owners switch to autonomous consumption of hot water, they must cut off the internal wiring by shutting off the tap (pos. 4) at the inlet of the hot water supply. More (which, by the way, is often hung in the toilet) described in a separate article of our portal.

• When installing pipes, you need to determine the installation location of the sink (if it is provided in the toilet).

If it is located next to the wall where the collector is located, then the flexible hoses for connecting it can be closed with a small box.

If the sink is installed closer to the exit from the toilet, then you can do it in two ways - also build a box for the pipes, or hide them in the wall. To do this, it will be necessary to make strobes in the wall, in which the pipes will be laid, going out only with threaded fittings for connection.

The latter option is especially relevant if ceramic tiles are laid on the walls.

After the pipe routing is completed, all open threaded fittings (they are often called sockets) must be temporarily closed with covers, plugs or small gags so that building mixtures do not get into them.

• The sewer pipe coming from the sink can also be hidden in a box, wall or on the floor, making a separate gate for it, into which it will be embedded. The second end is connected to the sewer pipe passing from the toilet to the main riser.

Should I completely change the sewer riser? It is desirable, of course, if there is an old cast-iron pipe there, already heavily corroded by corrosion. But it will be quite difficult to do this in one single apartment from the entire riser. If you take such a step, it is best to immediately negotiate with all the neighbors.

Having finished operations with pipes, you can proceed to work that will help make the toilet room neat. Agree that no matter how aesthetic the new pipes look, they should still be closed so as not to spoil the view.

Pipe box installation

• In order to decorate the water and sewer pipework, it is necessary to erect a frame on which drywall panels will be fixed.

A well-arranged box will help hide all the "ugliness" of pipes

The frame can be made of a wooden bar or metal profiles. All its elements are carefully measured, cut with a hacksaw, metal shears or a grinder, and during installation they are aligned with a level and fastened together with self-tapping screws.

• The frame is placed at the bottom of the wall, if it was possible to fit all the wiring in this particular area. For sewers, a separate frame for the box is often built.

If necessary, the entire wall is covered with a frame. But, both in the first and in the second case, it is necessary to provide a window that will provide access to all wiring elements so that in the event of an accident, it can be easily eliminated, without understanding all decorative partition. In addition, we must not forget about free access to valves and water meters - for periodic readings.

• In addition to emergency and inspection doors, you need to think about. Very often, ventilation ducts in apartment buildings are located along the back wall of the sanitary unit rooms, and holes for them are arranged under the ceiling of the room. It is impossible to close the ventilation, therefore, it is also necessary to provide a separate box for it in the frame, and install in it, after finishing the finishing work, an exhaust

• After mounting the frame, it must be sheathed with a material on which any decorative finish will fit well. Most often, drywall is used for this purpose, but sometimes plywood can also be suitable, the panels from which are fixed to the frame using special self-tapping screws.

• After the drywall is fixed to the frame, all its joints must be strengthened with a fiberglass sickle mesh and sealed with putty. In addition, all self-tapping screw caps are also covered with putty, otherwise, over time, rust from them may come through wallpaper, paint, or even through the material of the joints between ceramic tiles.

• Next, you need to consider what type of door will be installed in the frame structure. Perhaps, it will depend on this and on the material chosen for finishing when to install elements for its fastening - immediately or after finishing work.

- If the partition will be pasted over with washing wallpaper, the door must be fixed on furniture hinges. In this case, it is installed on the frame immediately.

An easy option is to hang blinds on the wall

- If blinds are used as a door, which is the easiest, they are hung at the end of all finishing work.

- If the surface finishing will be carried out with PVC panels, then the door can be made of the same material installed on a frame made of rails. It is fixed on the lathing slatsdesigned for fastening the panels.

- Another option for mounting the door can be a frame made specifically for the left openings, on which the door is installed. The frame is inserted together with the door into the frame opening after finishing work, and around it is framed with baguette slats.

On a sheathed and puttied partition, before installing the decorative material, it is necessary to apply a primer in two layers and leave to dry.

Ceiling, wall, floor finishing

The toilet can be finished with different materials that have high moisture resistance, can be wet cleaned and are not subject to the negative effects of chemical detergents. Such decorative coatings include ceramic tiles, PVC panels, washable wallpaper and plaster impregnated with a deep penetration primer.

For the floor, of course, the simplest and most reliable solution will be ceramic tiles. From innovative technologies - coating can be self leveling epoxy floors. They have another name - because due to the multi-layer and transparency of the material, it is possible to create three-dimensional images.

Consider the most popular, affordable and self-assembly finishing materials.

Ceramic tile

The best option for decorating the walls and floor of the toilet is ceramic tiles. It has numerous advantages over other finishing materials, both in terms of performance and decorative features. Moreover, a great variety of collections are on sale, differing both in design and in price - you can always choose the right option for a particular one.

• Before laying the tiles, it is necessary to check the walls for evenness. If they have deformation or bevels, they must be leveled with putty or drywall sheets.

With drywall - much easier, the work process is faster, and after its completion there is not much dirt left. Drywall can be fixed to the walls with a special adhesive and fixed in several places with dowels. The seams between the sheets are sealed in the same way as on the casing of the previously installed box.

With very uneven walls, drywall must be fixed on the crate installed on the walls.

However, there are difficulties in this matter - if profiles are used for the crate, they will “eat up” a significant part of the already small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe toilet, therefore, instead of them, wooden slats with a thickness of only 15 ÷ 20 mm are often used.

• After leveling the walls with drywall and covering them with a primer, you can begin to lay ceramic tiles on the dried surface.

The installation process of this material starts from the floor. Control over the evenness of the rows and the fit of the tiles to the wall must be carried out constantly, using the building level. In order for the seams between the tiles to be the same, plastic crosses are used to calibrate their width.

• If individual tiles require adjustment - their reduction or removal of some part of them, cutting is done with a special tile cutter or glass cutter, which is carried out several times along the same line, and then the excess part is separated from the tile with pliers. You can also cut with a grinder by installing a diamond or corundum wheel on it for cutting ceramics.
• Tiles are laid on a specially designed tile adhesive. It is applied to the walls with a notched trowel and spread over the surface.
• Having completed the laying, the seams between the tiles are sealed with a special grout (fugue), matched in tone to the overall color of the room.

• After finishing the walls, you can proceed to tiling the pre-leveled floor. To prepare it, it is best to use a self-leveling compound - it will need quite a bit, and the floor will learn to be perfectly even. A lot of useful information on working with such can be found in a special article of our portal.

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor has its own specific features - both in terms of choosing a tile, and in the technology of working with it. More about that - in a special publication of our portal.

Video: budget toilet transformation with ceramic tiles

PVC panels

Fixing PVC panels to walls is much easier than laying tiles. No mortar, "dirty and wet" work is needed. The panel fastening technology is simple and intuitive. The main thing is control for observance of verticality and horizontality, attentiveness and accuracy.

Plastic panels can level any surface by correctly installing the crate, which will hide all the bumps.

The panels, however, are not as durable as well-laid tiles, but they also have a much lower price. In addition, once having made a crate on the walls under them, the owners get the opportunity to change the finishing material as they get tired of its colors, or when it becomes sloppy.

So, the work proceeds in stages as follows:

• Before mounting the panels on the walls, they are mounted on the ceiling. If it is planned to install built-in lighting fixtures on the ceiling, then all measurements are made in advance, since the fixtures have a certain height, and the ceiling will have to be somewhat lowered during their installation.

An important note - the processes of paneling the ceiling and walls in the article are somewhat spaced only for a better perception of the features. In fact, the crate for both the ceiling and the walls is prepared at the same time, and only then do they move on to fixing the panels according to the “floor → ceiling” scheme.

- For this, a crate of metal profiles or wooden bars is fixed on the ceiling. Further, wiring is fixed between the elements of the crate - its ends are located at the points where the lamps will be installed. It is clear that the cables must not be connected to the power supply during installation.

- At the junctions of the batten and the wall, moldings for internal corners are fixed - they are placed at number four in the figure below. Facing panels will be installed in their grooves.

- Holes are made on the panels for lighting elements.

• On the primed surface of the walls with the help of dowels, wooden laths of the crate are fixed. If it is planned to install the PVC lining vertically, then the crate is fixed horizontally, and vice versa - when it is installed in a horizontal position, the crate is mounted vertically.

To save toilet space, the slats should not be thicker than 20 mm, and their width can be 30 mm or more. It is advisable to immediately align them vertically, making linings in the right places through which fasteners will pass, fixing both the rail and the lining on the wall at the same time.

Reiki are installed at a distance of 400 ÷ 500 mm from each other.

The crate is usually attached to the wall with dowels. To do this, holes in the wall are drilled through the rails, and then plastic dowels are hammered into the wall. A rail is applied to the marked place and screwed to the wall with a self-tapping screw.

- Next, a guide is fixed to the bottom rail, into which the end parts of the panels will be inserted. To do this, you need a molding called "starter", it is shown in the figure at number seven.

- Under the ceiling, the panels are inserted into moldings for internal corners, which have already been installed during the installation of ceiling panels.

- The same molding is installed at the vertical corners of the room, since panels of two planes will be joined in them.

- The installation of the lining begins from the corner of the room, and the first panel must be inserted into the grooves of three moldings at once - the top, bottom and corner. The panel must be leveled, since the evenness of the entire further row will depend on it.

The lining must be fixed to the crate and this can be done in several ways:

- Hammering nails into the hidden part of the lining adjacent to the rail.

- Using special metal clamps, which are put on the narrow part of the groove of the lining, and nailed, screwed or shot with staples to the rail. They are convenient in that, if necessary, one or more panels can be pulled out of the general row, without understanding all designs.

- Special clips that do not require additional fastening. They are convenient, but ordinary battens are not suitable for them, but you will need to purchase special guides into which such clips will be installed.

Prices for popular finishing wall panels

Wall panels

Video: an example of wall decoration with PVC panels

Washable wallpaper

Wallpaper that is easy to clean is the most affordable type of finish for the toilet. If you creatively approach the design process and choose the right pattern and shade of wallpaper, you can make an interior that will not be worse than that made using tiles or PVC panels.

The disadvantage of wallpaper can only be called the fact that their service life is much less than that of other materials, but their cost is several times lower. They are much more affordable for frequent replacement than tiles or lining.

In order for the wallpaper to look neat on the walls, the surfaces under them must be carefully prepared. The easiest and most convenient way to level the walls is with drywall sheets. As described above, the installation of drywall is quite simple, and any wallpaper fits perfectly on its surface.

Washing wallpaper is pasted with adjacent strips end to end. If a step-by-step drawing is applied to them, then it must be observed.

The ceiling can also be covered with wallpaper, the same as the walls, or lighter. Since light shades make the room much brighter, you can save on room lighting by installing light bulbs of less power.

For the wallpaper, you will need to choose the right ceiling and floor plinths, which will harmoniously fit the main finish in terms of color and style.

Plumbing installation

The final stage of work is the return to the place of the toilet bowl, cistern and sink.

Toilet

Since the toilet, whatever one may say, is the most important element of the toilet room, it is installed in the first place.

• To begin with, the markup of its location is carried out. The toilet is placed on the floor and circled with a marker. Immediately mark the places of its attachment to the floor, since it will be necessary to drill holes for the dowels.

• Next, the toilet is temporarily removed to the side, and in semi drilled holes for fasteners into which dowels or anchors are hammered.
• The toilet is installed in place and firmly screwed to the floor. Usually, plastic decorative caps are provided in the set of fasteners that will cover the head of the bolt or stud.
• Further, the socket of the corrugated pipe is put on the toilet pipe. The corrugation opens to the desired length, bends and its second end, equipped with rubber sealing rings-cuffs, is inserted into the socket of the sewer pipe.

• Then, you need to connect the tank to the toilet. There are different models of toilet bowl sets with a cistern.

- In some of them, the tank is installed and fixed directly on a special toilet bowl platform. In this case, the kit should include the necessary fasteners and sealing sealing elements, and mounting holes are provided in the toilet bowl and cistern.

- In other cases, the tank is attached to the wall and connected to the toilet with a pipe that supplies water for flushing into it.

• After installing the tank and assembling the drain mechanism in accordance with the instructions attached to it, it is necessary to connect the water supply hose - to the tank and to the corresponding fitting on the water supply.

• The last step in installing the toilet is to seal the gap between it and the floor with a sealant, it will increase the reliability of the installation and give the joint accuracy.

There are a lot of toilet models, and it is simply impossible to consider everything. Several can be found in a separate publication of our portal.

Sink

If you want to hide all the ugly pipe connections under the sink, you should purchase a model mounted on a pedestal. This structural element will close all unsightly places and serve as a reliable additional support for the bowl.

• Before fixing the sink to the wall, it is recommended to immediately install a mixer on it and connect flexible hoses to it. Also, the upper part of the drain system is pre-mounted, consisting of a socket and a piece of pipe, on which a siphon will be installed in the future. After installing the sink in place, it will be extremely inconvenient to carry out these procedures.

• Next, the sink needs to be fixed to the wall. It can be installed on special brackets fixed in the right place, or attached directly to the wall surface using anchors.
• After the sink is fixed, the flexible hoses are screwed to the threaded fittings that are brought out to supply water. It is recommended to additionally install taps on the fittings, which in case of emergency will help to locally shut off the water. In this case, the hoses are screwed to the threaded fitting of the tap.

• Now it is necessary to install and seal the siphon, and then connect the waste corrugated hose coming from it into the sewer pipe prepared in the floor or in the wall, sealed with a special rubber sleeve or cuff. The installation of the waste siphon is completed by a mandatory leak test with a test spill of water.
• The last step in the installation of the sink is the closure of all pipes and the siphon with a pedestal. It is installed under the sink and marks are made for drilling holes in the floor for fasteners.

The pedestal is then removed semi drilled holes into which dowels or anchors are hammered. After that, the pedestal returns under the sink and is fixed to the floor. With its upper part, it should support the sink.

After assembly - a mandatory check by spilling a large amount of water

After completing the installation of plumbing, it is necessary to conduct a verification test for leaks. If there are no drops of water on the pipes and taps, it means that the installation was carried out with high quality, and the plumbing is ready for operation.

If the owners of the apartment have creative inclinations, although some skills in the construction business, and main- desire, then even with a minimum budget, you can put the toilet in order.

Prices for various types of sanitary ware for toilet and bathroom

Plumbing

Video: an example of a major overhaul of a bathroom