Do you know how to determine the size of a man's genitals? By the way he accepts defeat (Note: never pay attention to another man's genitals unless he fucked your girlfriend) It doesn't matter that you have the smartest submissions in the whole world and you

CLASSIC SEQUENCES - JOSEKI The art of form is reflected in the theory of joseki, or the theory of "equal result". In Chinese game theory, the Japanese word joseki is replaced by another term, dingshi, which means "determine the shape". Usually joseki

Crafts from stones can be made from a variety of pebbles: construction, ordinary street, sea.

They go well with shells, pasta and other materials, but even in a pure stone version, the craft will look original and interesting. And you can take stones of different sizes and shapes, and most importantly, colors to create it.

By the way, if you have multi-colored stones, you can combine them so that you don’t even have to paint the craft.

bottle of stones

An ordinary wine bottle can be turned into an original piece of decor if you decorate it with thin pebbles.

However, if there are certain skills and sharp tools, existing stones can be cut into thin plates, and even shaped.

In addition, multi-colored natural material does not even need to be painted, but even if you need colors that are not there, you can apply paint to the stones and get a beautiful one.

For example, gouache...

It will not be waterproof, but if the craft will decorate the interior, you can opt for it.

What will be required:

• wine bottle;
• gray plasticine;
• thin plates of stones or bulk stones;
• beads;
• rhinestones.

So, first we take a bottle, we clean it well from dirt and dust. Of course, we remove the label in advance and the layer of glue that could remain on the surface.

Stone crafts can be used both in the interior and in landscape design. After all, such beauty does not require much effort and spending money!

Probably, many people thought about how to make a goban at home with minimal effort, money, and time. There are actually a lot of options, an impromptu goban can be made from anything, for example, from a piece of old linoleum, plywood, cardboard. But,
such gobans do not look very aesthetically pleasing, moreover, they are short-lived. Despite the fact that I am the happy owner of a board bought back in the times of the USSR, which, by the way, is perfectly preserved, I still have an obsession with making the goban myself. Unfortunately, I do not know when I will have enough time to implement this idea, but I have already decided on the goban manufacturing technology for myself and offer it to your attention.

So, to begin with, we will make a list of the necessary tools and materials. I advise you to prepare everything in advance, so that later you do not run around the apartment in search of the most elementary tools and do not come up with a new use for household items.

Materials and tools needed for work:

1. MDF fibreboard.

Dry-process fibreboard: MDF (MDF - medium density fiberboard) is a material with a uniform internal structure that allows milling without chipping, hairiness, opening of internal pores and sanding with sufficient surface quality of the product. MDF boards are widely used for the manufacture of furniture parts, especially furniture embossed facades..

2. Colorless varnish of good quality. You should not save on varnish, it is better to buy a small jar of expensive varnish containing polyurethane.
3. Foam brushes or a small foam roller.
4. Small skin "zero".
5. Sharp construction knife.
6. Long metal ruler. A second T-shaped ruler will also help a lot.
7. Pencil, eraser.
8. High-quality permanent black marker pen thickness 0.5mm.
9. Hairdryer.

Project for the production of works (PPR)

1. Cut out a board of the required size from our MDF board. I recommend cutting with a circular saw - then the cuts will be even and smooth. If you plan to cut with a jigsaw, then I have to disappoint you - no matter how hard you try, the edges of the board will be uneven. Some craftsmen advise temporarily attaching a guide bar to stop the jigsaw, but this option is not suitable for us for two reasons: firstly, we do not want to spoil the board with the bar fasteners (there will be traces of the screws), and secondly, even if we fix the bar - the saw cut will still turn out to be uneven, since the course of the jigsaw file is several millimeters, and on a thin board such an error will be striking.

2. The cut blank for our goban must be carefully sanded. For sanding, we use the smallest skin "zero". To avoid too strong removal of fibers in places of pressure with your fingers - fix the skin on a small even block, or on a special grinding block. I like it when the edges of the board are sharp, so we will not process them with a file, for the same reason we only sand the end sides of the workpiece with a bar!

3. We prime the workpiece with the first layer of varnish. I repeat, we do not save on varnish, we always make sure that the varnish is with polyurethane. For a primer layer, it is advisable to add a little white spirit to the varnish - this will make the varnish more liquid and it will better saturate the board. Lacquer should be applied with a foam brush or roller. If you use a regular brush, the hairs will inevitably get on the surface of the board. If small bubbles form on the surface of the board when applying varnish, this should not scare you, the bubbles should theoretically disappear on their own, but I recommend that you dry the board a little after painting with a regular hair dryer.

4. Apply the mesh to the goban blank. To do this, with a sharpened pencil, we draw the first line along the entire perimeter of the board (we get a square). Be sure to check the corners - they must be strictly 90 degrees! The formulas proposed by Filin on the forum will help us correctly determine the size of the sides of the square Kido:

Horizontal size: 18 cells wide (d+1mm), plus (0.7d) per side

Final formula:
L horizontal=18(d+1)+0.7(d+1)+0.7(d+1)=19.4(d+1)

Vertical size: the same as horizontal, but add 3 mm already (the goban should be slightly elongated to create a visual effect of an even square)

Final formula:
Lvert.=18(d+3)+0.7(d+3)+0.7(d+3)=19.4(d+3)

d - stone diameter (measured with a caliper)

After drawing the first line, we apply all the rest, carefully monitoring the dimensions. When all the lines are drawn with a pencil, we need to outline them with a black marker (pen thickness 0.5mm). Inaccuracies, errors in the lines drawn with a marker are wiped with a sharp construction knife. After drawing the lines, do not forget to mark the star points, for this it is best to use a stencil ruler. The diameter of the dot should be within 2-3 mm, otherwise it will look too large.

5. After drawing a grid and star points with a marker, you must repeat the procedure
applying varnish 2-3 more times, each layer of varnish must be thoroughly dried. Dry the workpiece in a dry, dust-free place.

6. These are approximately the gobans obtained if you follow the above instructions:

5 years ago

Since there is already a topic about different materials for stones, I will make another modest contribution. I bought Korean faience stones. thickness 9 mm. I won’t talk too much about them, since you can play them in go clubs. In particular, in the go club "Territory". The only thing I would like to point out is that they are quite durable, although I have heard opposite opinions. When I was about to buy them, one user from the forum said that these stones are easy to beat, that he has a very high percentage of breakage. However, I dropped my stones a lot and on a variety of surfaces. The most harmless - on the carpet, the most dangerous - on the tiles. And not a single even minimal chip. I don’t know how and what a friend threw them at, but I didn’t encounter the problem of combat.

I have a set of kaya (a board made by hand by a craftsman, solid), made to order, black bowls, apparently walnut, covered with a specific varnish and basalt stones and original Japanese hamaguri in excellent condition (they were stored in a warehouse for 15 years, and not used).

Pretty much everything is canon. The only thing is that the wood is darker than is usually used for bowls, but I really like dark wood, so I gave black bowls as a gift. This is convenient, as it does not distract the eye from the board when playing.

The thickness of the stones according to Japanese metrics is 36. Perfect for me, because I don't like stones that are too thick. I do not like Chinese stones, they are inconvenient and poorly removed from the board with the help of "Japanese fingering". These are convenient in that they do not ride on the board, but they also stand easily.

Of the minuses - dents on the board stay longer than usually happens on the board. Perhaps they violated the technology during manufacture. But it's almost imperceptible.

The lids crackle merrily, the stones ring soothingly, the sound is good when set. I thought about making myself a goban on legs, but now I feel that this is not necessary. This kit is absolutely nothing.

Speaking of bowls and that they do not distract from the game, I found this beauty in the Chinese segment:


Made from wenge. And the price of all this joy, if you buy in China, is only 3,000 wooden rubles. If you give somewhere around 3300-3500, they will also pour a complete set of lentil-shaped yunzi 9 mm thick there. This is such a blessing. I don’t know how anyone, but I like such bowls for their inlay. These can even be put on a bookshelf as an element of the interior. I wanted to play - took off, played. Then put in place and beauty.

Above, I posted photos of bowls that I already purchased for a friend with exactly the same (in terms of execution technology) inlay on the lids. It's definitely not a print. Checked. :) For such money and on such a tree, they simply would not allow themselves to be limited to a print.

Good day to all. I decided to make another small contribution to this topic by preparing a review of my small go-collection. Let's start with photos of Chinese go bowls. Then a detailed comparison of two types of yunzi and Chinese agate stones with well-known faience stones. This is in case someone is interested in yunzi, but does not have the opportunity, like me, to go to China. I apologize in advance for the mediocre quality of the photos. Hope it's informative enough.
So, to begin with, bowls, for there is not much about them. At the moment I have two pairs of bowls of local production.
1) Wenge bowls:


Rosewood bowls:


All bowls are carved from a single piece of wood, without seams. All are varnished. And, they are quite well made. As expected, all bowls have full inlay, no prints. If you look closely at the drawings, you can find differences between them, which indicates manual work.
This is how the Chinese know how when they want. But even on TaoBao, I found such bowls only in one place, and their number is limited.

Now let's move on to the stones. I mentioned that in this review two types of yunzi will be considered. I’ll immediately allow myself a small digression about what yunzi are in general. In the Chinese online store TaoBao, I met 5 types, which can be divided into 2 categories:

1. Types A and B both have a continental shape (flat on one side) and, accordingly, a small thickness. The difference between them is most likely in the shade of white stones. In their case, I can’t say anything exact, since I didn’t deal with them.
2. Types C, D and E are lentil-shaped. Type C stones are also called "new yunzi". The manufacturer claims that they are made using modern technology. White stones are a bit rough. Thickness within 9mm. Type D stones are also called "old yunzi". As stated, they are made according to the old technology. The difference is that white stones resemble bone in color. They are smoother to the touch than C. The thickness of stones of this type is within a centimeter. I also did not hold the last type E in my hands. Judging by the photographs, these stones differ from type D mainly in size (up to 1.2 cm).

Prices for the first three types of yunzi are in the range of 200 yuan. The price of Yunzi D and E jumps up to 700 and 1400 yuan per set, respectively.
The main feature of all yunzi is the property of black stones to shine through in an emerald color.

The material for the yunzi is presumably tempered glass. This can be judged by the way black stones shine through. And more on the rocks. One white type C stone broke for me. I post a photo of his insides so that everyone can draw their own conclusions.

Let's start the comparison. From top to bottom: type D yunzi, Korean faience, type C yunzi, agate.

Same order from left to right:

height and shape. The order is the same:

A pair of agate stones separately:

As mentioned above, sorry for the quality of the photos. There is nothing better to photograph. I compensate for everything else, summing up the results by verbally describing the pros and cons of yunzi:
Pros:
1)Matte surface, so no fingerprints left.
2) Emerald shade of black stones in the light. From a practical point of view, of course, this is not a factor. But aesthetically pleasing.
3) Strength is about the same as that of faience stones from Korea, if not more.
Minuses:
1) Black stones get dirty all the time. They have white spots on them. Example in the photo:

Presumably they appear from the fact that the stones beat against each other. Easily erased with a finger, occur after the stones are again in the bowls. I have no idea how to deal with this.
2) The color of the "white" stones is dirty, which is also not pleasing under certain lighting conditions.
Another feature that I do not attribute to either pluses or minuses: yunzi is heavier than Korean faience stones.

Personally, for my taste, faience stones are better and more practical. They do not need to be constantly washed or wiped with fingers. White Korean stones look very beautiful. Their set is very contrasting. Taking into account the yuan flying somewhere high, they are also cheaper than large yunzi. However, for a collection, type D yunzi are very good. It's also fun to play with them. The number of poorly balanced stones per set is about the same as faience stones. Well, or a little more.
All conclusions are purely subjective. If anyone has any questions, please ask. I'll try to answer.

P.S.: The rosewood bowls will probably be up for sale in two and a half years. However, if anyone wants to purchase them earlier, it is possible in July. On the purchase, please agree in advance.

You're welcome. :) I really hope that someone helped.

When I played in one of the local educational buildings, I had to quickly collect stones. As a result, 8 pieces in turn and in groups fell from a height of one and a half meters onto a tile. One of the eight stones broke. All others are safe and sound. Several faience stones fell from the same height onto the same floor at the airport. And only one crashed.

There was a need to supplement the previous review. I'll start with the bad. After photographing the rosewood bowls, I put them away in the closet for a couple of days. When I took it out again, I found that one of the lids had dried out and cracked. The lid did not fall anywhere, did not hit anything, so mechanical damage is excluded. It's just that the wood was badly dried and varnished. Two conclusions:
1) The sale is canceled, because the bowls are most likely going back to the sellers.
2) Here is the main reason why boards and bowls from China in Russia are sold twice as expensive as they are bought in China: since a large proportion of boards and bowls come with scratches and other jambs + new problems come out already in place, there are losses compensate by overpricing everything else. Actually, I was told about this in one go-club. Now the assertion of the Russian sellers has been verified empirically.

Now again at the expense of faience stones. I was able to order some Japanese hamaguri stones here. The stones arrived quickly, outwardly very beautiful, made to the highest standard. I compared them with Korean stones of almost the same size. And I came to the conclusion that the sound when they are set is the same and rather depends on the material of the goban, the appearance differs only in the presence and absence of stripes. The surface is equally glossy, the color is also almost the same. Conclusion: for the presence of stripes and "canonicity" there is an overpayment every 6 - 10 times. Of course, the correspondence of size and centering of Japanese stones should be better than that of Korean ones. But the difference in price is much higher than the difference in quality. So, personally, I think that the best value for money of all the options considered in the end is with Korean stones.
But this is my personal conclusion. :)

P.S. Especially for the heading "unbelievable, but true" I throw a link to one of the ads on the TaoBao website. A set of Japanese hamaguri and basalt stones for sale. Japanese metric size 50. Thickness 14.6 mm (that is, almost spherical). The price for a set is 45,000 yuan. To understand how much it is in rubles at the current exchange rate, multiply the given figure by 6. :)
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.325.TbhplL&id=37639753105

Comrades, help me understand. I already mentioned that some kind of incomprehensible white coating very quickly forms on the black yunzi stones. That is, he literally just removed it with his hands, put the stones in a bowl, poured the stones back, the plaque has already reappeared.
Today I received a set of Korean go stones 1 cm thick. As an experiment, I put 4 black yunzi in a bowl with black faience stones. I played with these stones for a while. And I noticed that those 4 yunzi were no longer raided. I have done a similar experiment before. In a batch of spare yunzi type D, one stone of reduced thickness was caught. It fits perfectly into my 9mm thick set of Korean stones. For about a week I played almost exclusively with this set. And he noticed that on the yunzi stone, again, there is no plaque. But if you put it together with other similar stones, plaque inevitably appears.
So we know that yunzi are made of glass. On the basis of the above observations, we can conclude that during their mutual contact, the same plaque appears and that in other cases it is not present. Removes plaque with a flick of the finger. Question: what can it be and how to deal with it?

I will tell you even more, they came to me processed. Treated them with some kind of machine oil. I saw yunzi in their original form. Talc does not rub off with a finger. Here we are talking about another raid.
When the stones came to me, they smelled pretty much of machine oil. If I understood correctly, they were supposed to stay that way. But somehow I was not pleased with the prospect of washing my hands every half an hour. Therefore, I preferred to wash the stones with the product. The oil performed the function of removing talc, so that the stones, after a series of manipulations, acquired their proper form. But instead, the same raid began to appear.

Wash with detergent? As far as I understand, it was better to wipe thoroughly ... Perhaps it is worth repeating the process. As an option - it is unlikely to be worse. First, rinse thoroughly with warm water (in case there is any residue), and then, according to the instructions, treat with sewing machine oil and wipe dry.

Passed a sheet of paper. Didn't press. The raid has disappeared. So the hypothesis is dropped. However, she initially did not take into account the experiment with faience stones.
In addition, if these were areas where the remaining oil was washed away, then these spots, after "erasing" them with a finger, would reappear after a few minutes of lying on the table.

I'll add one more thing for clarity. White spots on untreated yunzi are talc. If I understand correctly (my experience confirms this), something greasy (be it sunflower or machine oil, it doesn’t matter) removes it. In particular, my first set of yunzi (back in the last semester) came in this form. After washing with sunflower oil, and then washing off the oil with the product, the appearance of the stones became completely different. That is, there is no more talc left. And periodically appearing whitish traces - this is something completely different.

Opinion of a person with a similar problem on Amazon:

Today I tried to rinse the stones according to the accompanying instructions. Several things I noticed convinced me that the item I received was a returned item.

First, the plastic bag for the black stones is noticeably more worn than the bag for the white stones; then while rinsing the black stones, there was oil from the stones floating on the water, which made believe the stones were oiled once. I also discovered two broken black stones. I didn't mind all these much until the stones have become dry again. After the stones are dry, I see a lot of residue dirts on the black stones! I believe the previous buyer tried to oil them without rinsing them, so the stones got stained with the original powder!

These stains do not seem easy to go, I doubt there is a way to wash them away without side effects. I wonder if these black stones are eligible for replacement, without requiring me to send back the ruined black stones, I don't like the trouble to repackage and mail them. Maybe I will try to use hot wash them (the broken stones could be useful for experimentation) to see if it works, probably they will never be as good as new stones.

From the white stones which were not ruined by improper oiling, I can see that these stones were actually very nice stones (a four or five star review should have been very reasonable for this item)! What a pity!

TL:DR - Perhaps the problem is in the initially incorrect processing - immediately with oil, without pre-washing (or vice versa?). Talc "stuck" on the stones and appears as it dries.
The author believes that the fact that the stones came to him already processed, moreover, is incorrect, it is second-hand evidence.

The design of Go sets is rooted in tradition and has evolved over centuries. The dimensions of the boards, stones and bowls, the materials from which they are made, have not changed for a long time. Modern technology has had little effect on the traditional methods of making high quality gobans. The best boards are still made by hand by skilled craftsmen who take over the craftsmanship from their fathers. Family traditions are kept for many generations.

The Go board is not exactly square. The standard size is 45.4 cm long and 42.4 cm wide. As a result, the stones slightly touch each other in the horizontal direction, but the monotony of the ideal square is destroyed. Players usually increase this effect by placing stones not exactly at the intersection of the lines. Sitting at the board during the game, the player looks at the position from an angle.

The thickness of the board depends on the taste of the owner. Traditional goban has a thickness of 15 to 19 centimeters. The standard height of the legs is 12.1 cm, and the total height of the goban is no less than 27 cm.

The black stones are 2.1 cm in diameter, and the white ones 2 cm. The white ones are slightly smaller to compensate for the optical illusion, as a result of which black seems to be smaller than white to a person. The shape of the stones is complex, the thickness can be different depending on taste, from 5 to 12.8 mm. The most common sets use stones with a thickness of 8.4 to 9.8 mm. Thick stones are clumsy, and thin stones are not so pleasant to put on the board.

Beautiful go boards are made from the glossy, textured wood of the kaya tree (kaya, Latin torrea nucifera). This yellow wood is ideal for gobans because its color harmonizes with the color of black and white stones and because it makes a lively sound when the stone is placed on the board. Kaya wood is durable and its color deepens and deepens over time.

The quality and price of kaya gobans depends on many factors, the most important of which is the cut of the tree. There are many ways to cut a tree trunk, each of which creates its own characteristic pattern of the surface, ends and sides of the goban. The best gobans have a straight pattern on the playing surface and on the ends. It is achieved by a tree cutting method called tenchimasa. These gobans cost from 6 million to 20 million yen.

Masame gobans are also quite expensive. These boards have an uneven texture from the end, as can be seen in the photo below. This cut also provides a direct texture on the playing surface. The price of high-quality masame gobans starts from 2 million yen and goes up to six million.

One reason for the high price of these gobans is the age of the wood. To get a blank of the right size, you need to use a tree over 700 years old. Only one or two tenchimasa boards and a few masame boards can be made from one tree. Which is very little.

The cheapest kaya wood gobans are the itame gobans. The picture shows that the playing surface has an irregular structure. From an aesthetic point of view, this is not desirable, as a result, the price is much lower. Starts at 400,000 yen. Several itame gobans can be made from one tree.

A player who wants to play a fine kaya wood goban at home, but is unable to pay such a high price, uses a 5 cm thick kaya board. These boards are usually made from two or three pieces of wood, skillfully glued together. Fine texture of the surface is achieved by careful selection of the texture of individual bars. Such boards (one of them can be seen in the photo) cost about 80,000 yen.

Due to the high price of kaya boards, boards made of katsura wood (cercidiphyllum japonicum, Japanese crimson) are widely used. Boards made from this tree have a very reasonable price and for this reason they are played in clubs. Relatively recently, for the manufacture of inexpensive boards, the wood of trees common in North America and Indonesia began to be used. Although it is not necessary to play on wooden boards, players find that they enjoy the game more if they hear the sound of resonating wood when they place a stone on the board.

Black stones are made from slate mined in Wakayama Prefecture. These stones are relatively cheap. It is white stones that form the basis of the cost of a set for playing Go. Traditionally, they are made from the shells of a mollusk that lives in Hyuga and Miyazaki prefectures (Hyuga, Miyazaki). Like kaya wood, these shells are rare and expensive. Now white stones are made from the shells of mollusks living in Mexico. They are not as rare, but just as well suited. As a result, the cost of a set of beautiful go stones has decreased several times. However, depending on the thickness of the stones, a set of white Mexican clam shell stones can cost between 16,000 and 250,000 yen. Most players in clubs use impact-resistant glass and plastic stones.

As in the case of wood, the texture of the surface of shell stones is of great aesthetic importance. The smoother the lines, and the more often they are located, the better.

Stones are stored in round wooden bowls with lids. The most expensive bowls are made from a beautiful mulberry tree, which grows only on Miyakejima Island in Tokyo. A pair of these bowls can cost hundreds of thousands of yen. More common are bowls made from cheap woods such as keyaki, a beautiful yellow wood that matches the color of the kaya. Chestnut and plastic bowls are most commonly used in clubs.

How to play go

Go is played by two people on a board with a set of black and white round pieces called stones. The complete set of stones consists of 181 black and 180 white stones. The standard full size board has 19 longitudinal and 19 transverse lines. The number of stones corresponds to the number of intersections of these lines.

The goal of the game of Go is to capture territory, which creates many analogies with wars on the ground. There is both fighting on the border and invading enemy territory, enemy forces can be surrounded and captured, groups of stones can be cut off, pressed and cornered, diversionary maneuvers and reconnaissance are used. At the same time, it is construction. Players try to create good structures, efficient and strong positions. Strong players arrange their stones in visually appealing shapes.

Go rules

Although the 19x19 board is standard, beginners are encouraged to start learning the rules on the 9x9 board. On boards of this size, you can begin to explain the rules.

Rule 1. The bet begins with an empty board.
Rule 2. Black moves first, after which White and Black alternate moves.
Rule 3. The move consists in placing a stone on an unoccupied intersection of the lines of the board.

Diagram 1 and Diagram 2 show typical opening moves on a 9x9 board. In Diagram 1, Black made the first move at the top right. White answered at the bottom left. In Diagram 2, Black played 3 at the bottom right, marking the sphere of influence on the right side of the board. White placed stone 4 at the top left, marking his sphere of influence on the left.

Clarification

Once placed on the board, a stone does not move or be removed from the board until the end of the game. We will cover the capture of stones in the following articles. Stones cannot be moved around the board. Except in a few cases, you can walk to any free intersection you like, even to the edge of the board and into the very corner.

Go game. famous players.

Kitani Minoru, along with Go Seigen, was one of the giants of Go from 1930 to 1950. From the beginning of his career, he showed great promise and soon acquired the nickname Kaidomaru - gifted. He became a 1st dan in 1924 and by 1935 had reached the seventh dan, an unprecedented rank in those days. In 1938 he won the tournament for the right to play his last game with Honinbo Shusai. Kitani won five points, and the game was the basis of the novel "Meijin" by Nobel Prize winner Yasunari Kawabata.

In addition to his success in tournaments, Kitani, along with Go Seigen, improved the theory of Go by creating the "new fuseki strategy". He also did much to develop joseki theory.

But Kitani left his greatest legacy in the form of many of his students whom he trained. After World War II, Kitani founded a school called "Kitani dojo". He combed the country in search of talented youth and attracted them to regular classes at his school. Every day these young people played Go and analyzed the games under the supervision of Kitani and his senior students.

These efforts began to bear fruit in 1971, when one of his students, Yoshio Ishida, at the age of 21, won the Honinbo title from then-reigning champion Rin Kaiho. Rin was born in China and studied under Go Seigen. The next five years were the years of Isis. He won the title of Honinbo four more times and finally took the title of Meijin from Rin, becoming the third Meijin Honinbo of modern times.

Ishida became the first-born of a new type of player that the Kitani school spawned. He was almost invincible, having won 30 games in a row in the qualifying tournament, he was imperturbable under pressure, calmly calculating positions. For his ability to calculate in yose, he was nicknamed "Isis Computer". Rin had it all too, but Ishida was a cut above.

Go rules

Take rule

Rule 4. A stone or a directly connected group of stones of the same color is captured and removed from the board when all intersections of the lines of the board immediately adjacent to the stone (group) are occupied by stones of the opposite color.

D.1. The white stones occupied three of the four points adjacent to the black stone, i.e. three ladies of this stone. In this case, the black stone is said to be in the atari.

D 2. White captures the black stone, occupying the last dame, and removes the stone from the board.

D.3. The result of White's last move. Captured stones are set aside and stored until the end of the game. They will be taken into account when calculating the result.

Stones can be captured both at the edge of the board and in the corner, as shown in the diagram.

Two black stones are connected. They are also in atari. White can capture them with 1.

This diagram shows a connected group of five black stones that can be captured.

Suicide moves are prohibited. You cannot make a move that closes the last dame of your stones. In the diagram on the right, two white stones each have one dame at 1-1. White 1 is forbidden because white stones lose their last dame.

A suicide move leading to the capture of the opponent's stones is allowed. If White plays 1 in the central diagram, then the queen is engaged at the black stones on the right, and the white stone has no queen. In this case, the one who made the move captures the opponent's stones. In this case, White captures two black stones.

Tasks

In these three problems, find a move by Black that captures some of White's stones.

Virtual whiteboard

Try to solve these problems on the virtual board. Move the pointer to the point on the board where you want to make the next move, and click the left mouse button.

Analysis of the game about meien. Go game analysis. Fundamentals of the concept of territory. Go game. the history of the game go.. The game of go in south korea.. home -> Articles