Oil radiator drip. Oil heater drip, what should I do? Elimination of the most simple breakdowns

Oil-filled electrical appliances are units in demand in everyday life with a long service life. They are manufactured in an industrial environment using modern technologies. But such devices are not always resistant to possible emergency situations, so sometimes they still fail. In some cases, you can repair oil coolers with your own hands, significantly saving the family budget.

Oil heater is a reliable and safe technique that rarely breaks down

Heater structure

Before proceeding with the repair of any electrical devices, it is important to study the device of the product and the principles of its operation. After reading this information, it will not be difficult to disassemble the oil cooler. ... The constituent parts of the heating equipment are:

metal body;
heating element (heating element);
Control block;
connecting wires.

In the case of the device there is oil, which is heated after turning on the heating element. In the process of operation, the walls of the radiator heat up, and from them the whole room. When certain temperatures are reached, the control unit is triggered, as a result of which the heating element is turned off. These cycles are repeated as long as the product is connected to a power source. As a result, a constant temperature is maintained.

How an oil heater works and how it can be repaired, see this video:

The main problems and their solutions

To troubleshoot a radiator, you need to follow some rules and have certain skills. It should be noted that if any of the elements of the device breaks down, it is necessary to stop operating it before the end of the repair work.

The oil heater can be repaired by yourself

It is important to understand that it is not possible to restore the operability of the bulk of the heater components at home, or this requires professional knowledge and experience. It is undesirable to experiment with broken electrical assemblies, because such manipulations are fraught with consequences in the form of injuries, explosions and fires. That is why, in the absence of the necessary preparation, it is best to replace an element that has become unusable. During the repair, you need to adhere to certain recommendations:

Before disassembling the heater, be sure to disconnect it from the power source.

be sure to turn off the unit from the outlet;
cool the product to room temperature;
it is prohibited to equip the device with homemade components;
avoid contact of oil with the body and electrical wiring;
if it is necessary to replace the main cable, it must be grounded.

There are not many possible malfunctions of oil heaters. Their causes are electrical and mechanical. Often, malfunctions in the functionality of electrical equipment are caused by the failure of the heating element, thermal relay, thermal fuse, and also the switch. There are very few wiring problems.

Mechanical faults include a violation of the integrity of the body and the appearance of holes through which oil flows. Determining the malfunction is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. A leak is detected by the characteristic oil stains under the unit. All other failures are associated with the electrical part.

Leaking appliance

Violation of the tightness of the unit often occurs with mechanical damage, as well as due to the appearance of corrosion formed due to defects in the paintwork. If a long-used and already familiar heater is dripping, then you can try to fix this malfunction yourself. Repair work can be carried out provided that the device is of an old model and is made by a domestic manufacturer, and is also equipped with a removable heating element.

An old radiator may leak due to the appearance of corrosion and rust.

First you need to disassemble the oil heater. To do this, it is necessary to disconnect the control unit, inside which the heating element is located. The latter should be carefully unscrewed and the oil should be drained into a clean container. After carrying out these manipulations, the unit must be filled with water in order to avoid ignition of the oil inside.

After finding the place of leakage, it can be eliminated by welding, but first it is necessary to clean the body with coarse sandpaper or a grinder. Depending on the size and location of the damage, a patch of metal is cut in, which is then applied to the hole and scalded.

The weld must be thoroughly cleaned and sanded, then degreased and painted with heat-resistant paint. After the paintwork has dried, 80% oil is poured into the device. Then the device is assembled upside-down.

It is impractical to repair more modern ribbed structures. This is due to the fact that they are made of thin steel using laser welding. It is technically very difficult to restore the tightness of such units, and in domestic conditions it is almost impossible or it will require large financial costs. In addition, products are often equipped with a non-removable heating element, so the oil can only be drained through the damaged area, and it will not be possible to refill it.

Replacing the heating element

In most cases, all oil heaters crackle when plugged in. This is not dangerous, because the sound is caused by the expansion of the case under the influence of heat. If, after turning on the device and setting the required power and temperature indicators, the unit does not emit sounds, then there is no heating. The cause of the breakdown may be a malfunction of the heating element or electrical wiring.

You can detect a breakdown by ringing the wires with a multimeter

It is important to carefully watch the electrical cable for damage. If no visible defects are found, then you need to dismantle the rack from the case and disconnect the radiator from the control unit. To do this, it is necessary to remove the plate with the inscription "Do not cover" or "Do not cover", under which there are fastening screws. Having unscrewed the latter from above, on the lower part, you need to unfasten the spring clips and remove the side part.

It is necessary to carefully inspect the wiring and insulation, check the quality of the connection. Pay special attention to areas where kinks or oxidation are seen. If a damaged conductor is found, it must be replaced with a new one. Clean oxidized contacts with sandpaper.

The next step is to check the parts with a multimeter. It must be started from the section from the plug to the nearest switching point. Multi-colored strands in the wires make it easy to trace the directions of the wiring. If the tester beeps, then the conductor is intact. The absence of sounds indicates damage.

There are fuses outside the heating element - this must be taken into account when dialing. There are situations when the heating element is working, and the protective parts burn out.

You can try to replace the heating element yourself

If a breakdown of the heating element is found during testing, further manipulations depend on the method of installing the heating element in the heater. If the mount is threaded, you can replace the element yourself. To do this, you need to unscrew it and install a similar part in terms of temperature and power.

If the unit is equipped with a non-removable heating element that is rolled inside, then at home it is almost impossible to expand it and install a new part. In this case, you need to think about purchasing a new product.

Damage to the thermostat

When testing the serviceability of the temperature controller, a number of manipulations should be performed step by step. Some of them:

Ring a small section of the chain that goes from the plug to the regulator.
Set the minimum temperature value and carry out the test again - the device should show an open circuit.
When the heating element is turned on and the thermostat is set to a value greater than zero, the circuit must be closed.

In the event of a malfunction of the thermostat, it should be replaced with a new one.

If the continuity of the parts revealed a lack of operability (for example, the radiator does not respond to temperature changes or power switching), then the element must be replaced with a new one. This is due to the fact that it is impractical to identify its technical characteristics and then repair it in industrial conditions, and in domestic conditions it is very difficult. If the regulating mechanism is fully functional, you need to clean it of contamination, and also tighten the contacts.

Bimetallic plate malfunction

The question of the possibility of a heater explosion is relevant, because the oil pressure in the device reaches high levels, and the air space in the form of 20% of the volume, of course, has a limited potential. To prevent this, the device is equipped with a thermal relay. Often this part is presented in the form of a bimetallic plate that closes the electrical circuit. If the multimeter detects a break at this point, the part must be replaced with a new one with the same characteristics.

If the thermostat is faulty, it will also have to be replaced with a new one.

Oil coolers rarely explode. This is due to the fact that they have many protective steps that duplicate each other. The likelihood of simultaneous failure of all security systems is very low.

No shutdown when dropped

The opening of the chain when overturning or tilting the product is provided by a mechanism. Its action is based on the presence of a suspended load, which, when deviated from the vertical position, remains in the same state.

Testing of this part is carried out by manually swinging the unit. If during these manipulations the heater does not turn off, then you need to clean it about

Parts in oil coolers are best replaced, repairs require special skills

tons of dust and good to spend, but best of all is to replace, because the installation will not take much time.

If the safety switch fails, the heaters do not explode. This is due to the fact that when the heating elements not covered with oil overheat, a protection is triggered on them or the electrical circuit is opened using a thermal relay.

At home, it is quite possible to fix an oil heater. When troubleshooting, it is best to replace the non-working parts without trying to repair them. This is due to various hazards that require professional skills.

No matter how high-quality an electric heater is, sooner or later it starts to heat badly or stops working altogether. Electric heaters are not complex devices and they very rarely break down after purchase during the warranty period.

I must say right away that the simpler the design of an electric heater, the less often it will break down and the easier it will be to find and eliminate the malfunction.

I do not recommend it on my own repair oil coolers, because there is a special heat carrier inside it - transformer oil. In order to disassemble it, you will first have to drain and then pour back the transformer oil, and this is a very troublesome and time-consuming business. If oil just started leaking a little from the oil cooler, then I recommend soldering the place of leakage with your own hands or weld it neatly with semi-automatic welding. In such cases, it is useless to use various sealants or glue to fix the leak.

Always unplug the heater from the outlet- before starting work on disassembly or dialing the device components with a multimeter.

In order to quickly and effectively find and eliminate a malfunction, you need to know the device of the electrical appliance, as well as how to check all its components for serviceability. For convenience, further I will immediately tell you about the device of the electric heater, and then about checking and repairing all components in order.

How does an electric heater work

In practice, the heaters are arranged in a similar way. Both simpler and more complex models are available. We will consider the device of the most complex option. In simpler models, the thermal fuse and tilt sensor may not be present in the circuit.

Consider a more simplified version with a one-key switch and one light bulb. Often, heaters are equipped with a two-button switch and several indicator lamps, the operation scheme will be similar, with the only difference that instead of one button there will be two, and one Taine will be like two in one case. In convection versions, an object protection sensor is often built in against the ingress of objects into the inside, but it connects and disconnects the power supply in the same way as a position sensor.

Any modern electric heater consists of from a plug with a power cable, which is connected through a thermostat and a switch to a heating element installed in the housing - Ten. Very often Teng has not 2, but 3 contacts for connection. One is connected to the first power wire, and from the other from the socket, two other wires are connected, connected from a two-button switch, which allows you to turn on either one spiral or two at once - at full power.

The circuit may contain a thermal fuse, which automatically turns off / off the device for overheating protection. An inclination sensor can also be installed, which opens the circuit when the heater is tilted above the permissible angle. Other sensors are installed in expensive convection models. For example, protection against falling objects into the interior of the device.

In some models there may be a fuse for protection against overload currents or short circuits, tripping in emergency situations.

Step-by-step instructions for repairing an electric heater

First thing, before proceeding with the repair with your own hands, unplug the heater from the outlet.
Unscrew the bolts or self-tapping screws and take out a control panel with a switch and a thermostat or thermostat.
If the device does not work at all and the bulbs do not light up, then we check for the presence of 220 volts on the veins of the cable connected to the outlet by. We replace the defective cable or plug with a new one. Just be careful- the electrical outlet may have stopped working, and the heater will be fully functional.
Further on the device unplugged from the socket we check the serviceability of all switch keys. In the on position, the contacts must have a short circuit, and in the off position, the resistance is infinitely large (open circuit).
At the next stage of the renovation we check the thermostat. The multimeter should show zero (short-circuit) or small resistance on the contacts.
If serviceability is still not found, then you will have to completely disassemble the electric heater with your own hands in order to get to the rest of its components.
Sometimes the cause of the problem can be quite simple.- this is a bad or missing contact at the junction of the wires with the terminals. Reliability is checked by visual inspection, but it is better to use a multimeter for this purpose.
Followed by check the integrity of the heating element or heating element, usually consisting of two circuits. To connect it, one common wire and two outgoing from the two-button switch are used. To check, set the multimeter to resistance measurement mode. For example, in my personal heater, one heating element shows a resistance of 50 ohms, and the other - 100 ohms. Very often, the heater stops heating at full capacity due to the failure of one of the Ten's circuits, which cannot be repaired and is replaced with a new one of similar characteristics.
Very often, the cause of a heater breakdown is a failure of a thermal fuse., which can be installed several in the case. If at least one breaks down, all Tens will stop working. It is simple to check the thermal fuse (in the picture it is indicated as TP) - there must be zero resistance or short circuit between its contacts. If there is more than one thermal fuse in the device, then we simply remove the faulty one and connect the wires together, not forgetting to use heat-resistant materials for insulation. Please note that sometimes the thermal fuses may be all working properly, and the reason for their operation may be overheating of the convection heater due to clogged filters or air exchange holes.
Next, it is worth checking the position sensor, consisting of a weight, which, when the device is tilted, presses the microswitch and opens the circuit. In the vertical position, there must be zero resistance or short circuit between the contacts.
In fan heaters and some other types of electric heaters, a fan is additionally installed, if it starts to make a lot of noise during operation or does not work at all, then read our

From the author: hello dear readers. Oil-fired electric heaters are popular units in everyday life, characterized by a budget price and durability. But power surges, active or improper operation create a number of technical problems. Is it possible to repair an oil heater with your own hands or assemble it from available tools? The article lists the main types of unit malfunctions and how to resolve them.

The main types of malfunctions

It is difficult to decide on troubleshooting an oil heater, since repair work requires certain skills and experience in following technical instructions. Any experiments with electrical appliances are fraught with rather predictable consequences: fire, thermal and electrical injury, overheating of sockets and heater components. If you are confident in your abilities, we recommend that you listen to a set of tips for assessing a malfunction and how to carry out repairs.

Consider a set of mandatory rules when repairing an electric heater:

before repair, the device must be unplugged and cooled;
it is recommended to use only factory parts for repairs, home-made components do not guarantee the safe operation of the device;
during repairs, avoid thermal contact with wiring insulation and transformer oil;
replacement of a standard mains power cable is always associated with the installation of a ground wire.

Let's proceed to a detailed analysis of the main types of unit malfunctions and ways to resolve them.

Oil leak

The main cause of oil leakage in the radiator is mechanical damage to the reservoir, corrosion of the connecting elements and defects in the protective paintwork. Can you solve this problem yourself? The repair option is possible provided that you are the owner of a domestic-made heater with a flat steel radiator and a removable heating element.

Disconnect the control box. The heater is unscrewed, and the oil is drained through the mounting socket into any clean container.
An empty radiator is rinsed with water to avoid ignition of oil residues during welding.
We carry out repair work. The thickness of the radiator walls reaches 1.2 mm, which makes it possible to use electric welding. The place of oil leakage is cleaned with sandpaper or grinder with a grinding disc, cleaned of debris and degreased. If the size of the damaged hole is large, a patch of steel is cut out and applied to the site. With the help of a welding machine, a seam is formed. After sanding, degreasing and checking the joint, heat resistant paint can be applied.
After complete drying of the paint and the inner surface of the radiator, 80% of the total volume.

Now you can assemble all the components and check the operation of the heater. Do not be afraid if you hear small clicks when heating. When the body parts are mated and the temperature rises, a slight crackling is considered normal.

Finned oil coolers cannot be repaired, as they are made of thin sheet steel and using laser welding. The second significant disadvantage of many such models is the non-removability of the heating element and the inability to drain / fill oil.

Lack of heating

A household oil heater at startup has a distinctive feature - when turned on and the case heats up, it emits a slight crackle. The absence of clicks and silent operation should alert you, it is recommended to look for the reason in the electrical part of the radiator.

Identifying the reasons for the lack of heating:

visual check of the integrity of the electrical cable;
assessment for damage to the housing and electronics.

To assess the performance of the radiator electronics, do the following.

Dismantle the housing and detach the control unit.
Unscrew all the upper and lower fasteners, unfasten the springs in the lower part (there are no locking elements in some models).
From the edge of the block joint, you need to remove the shell.
Now the dismantled element of the assembly needs to be visually assessed for integrity and damage.

When inspecting, pay attention to the quality of the contacts at the junction of the wires, the integrity of the insulation of the wiring, areas with kinks and oxidations. Defective wires are replaced with new ones, oxidized sections must be removed and cleaned - if there are no obvious defects, then they are inserted in their original place.

When replacing the wiring with a new one, you need to select wires of the same cross section to avoid heating the wires.

For the final check, you will need a multimeter tester, thanks to it, they carry out a "continuity" and analyze the operation of the wires and cores from the plug to the nearby connection. The operation is quite simple, instructions and a detailed description of the operation of the device will help a beginner to quickly figure it out. A sound signal or a reaction of the color sensor will tell you about the integrity of the area, the absence of a response from the tester will indicate damage on the line.

Temperature controller malfunction

A malfunction of the thermostat is determined during a test with a multimeter tester. The sequence of "ringing" is as follows.

The first ringing is to check the area from the plug to the thermostat.
The second step is to set the regulator to the minimum temperature value and conduct an open-circuit test.
With a closed circuit and zero temperature setting, you can test each of the heating elements separately if your heater has two of them.

The lack of reaction of the thermostat to ringing, the heater does not respond to switching modes when the handwheel is turned, the inability to carry out full-fledged diagnostics at home - all this is a reason for a complete replacement of the device or for contacting an experienced specialist.

Tip: a malfunction of the thermostat may be due to dust contamination or loose contacts. You will need to clean and tighten the latter.

Failure of the bimetallic plate

Horror stories about the explosion of oil heaters are everywhere on the Internet. How much does this coincide with reality? Experienced experts say that this probability is minimal. Several degrees of protection, duplicating each other, the absence of situations in which absolutely all parts of the heater fail - all this allows the structure to be classified as durable and highly efficient.

Where did the speculation about the possibility of an oil heater explosion come from? From ignorance of the principle of work. The fact is that an "air cushion" of 20% of the total volume is specially kept in the radiator, this is technically justified by high values of oil pressure. When the maximum temperature is reached, the thermal relay is triggered, it protects the heater from overheating and possible force majeure.

The thermal relay is a biometric plate and is designed to close an electrical circuit. If, when "ringing", the multimeter detects an open circuit in the fuse, then the only correct option is to purchase and install a new one with identical indicators.

Bimetallic plates are the basis! Household heating appliances were marked, the electric kettle was conquered, and right under the button they were located. Thanks to the bimetallic plate, the device turns off after waiting for the right moment in time, driven by steam, with a brisk click. Oil heaters are equipped with a similar mechanism, only more complicated. More reminiscent of what was seen in the iron, mostly of the old modification. The screw mechanism is set in motion by the thermostat knob, pressing the contact more or less against the bimetallic plate (a slightly simplified interpretation, but the approximate meaning is this). They say that it is better to see once than to try ... to hear a hundred times. Meet fresh photos before the model is copied by competitors. The story about repairing an oil heater with your own hands will be based on the pictures taken.

The device of the simplest oil heater

It is good to cover the oil heater with clothes to dry. The only type of appliance where the owner will avoid fatal consequences. The only thing is that on the side of the accordion container there is an extension equipped with electronic filling; avoid covering the compartment. The oil heater device includes the following elements:

Emergency shutdown sensor (thermal fuse, relay)

A container filled with oil. Appearance - a poured accordion, heating up to a decent temperature, do not touch it with your hand. When it comes to drying things, put heat-tolerant ones fearlessly. The container is sealed, but there is 15% air inside. Try to put the oil heater upside down, roll it on one side, return the load to the wheels. Heard thuds scare mice: air bubbles burst inside. Water is not used by the heater, it will quickly evaporate, the corrosion of the body will become significant, the manufacturing technology would require the complete exclusion of air from the working fluid (water + oxygen = the most powerful oxidizing agent of living nature). The coefficient of thermal expansion of the most common liquid on the planet is ten times higher than that of steel. It's not good if the tank bursts.
The lower part of the end of the accordion contains a heating element, to which the electronics compartment clings. The oil heater has no pump and works by natural oil recirculation. The current starts up from the heating element, then the liquid goes down at the opposite end of the battery. While working, it emits the vibration of the spiral, which is audible, under the influence of alternating voltage. The effect is unavoidable, due to the influence of the Earth's magnetic field. The boiling point is above 100 ºС (150-200), avoid touching the container, until the phase state changes, the liquid is not brought due to the prohibition of the use of water: the container will rupture. TEN double (two spirals), will allow more flexible regulation of heating.
There is a thermal fuse not far from the heating element. The device will not allow a fire to happen, if suddenly oil leaks out, the temperature relay breaks. The oil heater would work hard when the copper heating element began to melt. Oil will leak out - high temperature through the housing will cause the stuck-on thermal fuse to trip. The structure distinguishes between bimetallic (reusable) or wire (disposable). The photo shows the presence of a clearly blackening tablet above the heating element: a thermal fuse (see the first photo of the review), or a thermal relay (determined by the design).

Steel profile connecting the electronics compartment and the heater accordion

The relay is located at the top. The main difference from the iron is visible: there is no contact with the body. It can be seen that the thermal relay simply tramples the air. An oil heater resembles an electric kettle in a marked feature, in which the bimetallic plate is often exposed to steam penetrating through a special opening in the case. A thermal relay is an adjustment mechanism, a thermal fuse is designed to localize the case of failure of standard equipment.
The pictures show: there are two switches, each has a phase, the ground of the heating element, one wire of the thermal relay. This redundancy allows the indicator lamps to glow. One phase is not enough to provide the Joule-Lenz effect. The manufacturer does not know in advance which side the user will plug in the plug, whether the blue (red) wire will be neutralized, and is exposed to 230 volts.

The electrical part differs little from an iron, an electric kettle, a water heater. You can turn on both spirals of the heating element at the same time, separately. In the latter case, the oil heater will take longer to reach the mode. There is a chance that in a cold room the structure will work without interruption at all.

Earth's magnetic field researcher listens to the whirring of an oil heater coil

Close the air passage holes in the electronic circuit - nothing will burn, the oil heater will turn off ahead of time, restart will not take place soon, a drying woolen sock will prevent the flow of a fresh jet. The bottom of the casing of the electronic unit is cut with supply slots. The air leaves the floor, it follows, bypassing the wires, reaching the upper exit. Along the way, the bimetallic plate estimates the moment when heating stops.

Disassemble the oil heater

The photographs of the oil heater show: the electronic unit is sealed in one piece with the accordion. This is not true. The lettering “Do not cover” hides a pair of screws, the retaining bracket is held in place by a spring in the bottom. It is clearly visible with the naked eye, explanations are unnecessary:

the spring is unfastened;
the bolts are unscrewed.

Inside the casing of the oil heater, most of the electrical connections are made with detachable terminals. If necessary, remove the switches, the bimetallic relay by unscrewing the screws from the inside, disconnecting the wires. Please note: the heating element is tightly sealed. Shows the desire of manufacturers not to allow anyone inside.

The cunning technician knows how to get to know each other

Major breakdowns of oil heaters

The heating element breaks down more often, the tank leaks. The oil heater becomes completely unusable. The relay will last for years. Today, Soviet irons are widespread, they are still workable. It is impossible to repair the mechanism. It is necessary to clean oxidized contacts with alcohol. Repair of electronic filling is limited to the replacement of elements mainly. Thermal fuses are too lazy to repair: it is difficult to calculate the response temperature. Masters avoid taking responsibility. Keys, relays should be cleaned from time to time.

The main thing is the replacement of heating elements, oil, repair of holes. Those who want to take it should know: air is certainly stored in the tank. Acts as a cushion when the oil begins to expand. Protects the tank from bursting. When replacing, use transformer oil, waste oil is not suitable, it will cause the heating element to build up with scale.

Synthetic varieties are incompatible with mineral varieties. Those who wish can be well interpreted by the old-timers of automobile forums. The mechanism is cleaned of oil if there is no certainty which type is filled in before repair.

Avoid soldering the tank. Take non-tin solder - brass, copper-phosphorus, silver, use a torch. Refrigerator repairman equipment will do. It is recommended to fill the inside of the tank with water to avoid fire. Accordingly, after work, the container must be dried. Before filling the oil is evaporated at a temperature of 90 ºС. Beware of persistently heating the liquid - it will begin to oxidize, burn. Of course, you can freeze the oil. A thin stream is passed by a trough having a negative temperature. The oil is filled to 90% of the capacity of the oil heater; it can be measured in any available way, with water.

How to remove the heating element depends on the design. There is information about collapsible and non-collapsible versions. Try to select a heating element of the same power. The sheath is made of copper tubes. The tank of oil heaters is steel, there is a possibility of corrosion caused by the formation of galvanic couples.

Small holes can be screwed in with bolts. Lay the thread with putty, apply heat-resistant sealant. Leaks are difficult to avoid. A sealant alone is not enough, heating-cooling cycles will cause cracks. No wonder the body is made with an accordion. The structure of the metal dampens the lion's share of deforming loads.

We have listed the main types of malfunctions. Self-repairing oil heaters, when it comes to holes, is a laborious, thankless task. However, have an inverter for welding thin sheets at hand, localize the hole. It is important to remove, by repairing the rust layer, the corroded areas, to allow the seam to catch on. Repairing an oil leak has a chance of being successful.

The fall sensors fell silent. The input of the electric circuit of the oil heater is preceded; at a certain roll, the power supply of the device is turned off. Checking the operation of the element is not difficult. Lay on one side, ring the contacts. Repair of the oil heater drop sensor is not justified by the risk caused by improper operation. Along with the thermal fuse, we see an element that ensures operational safety. Information regarding the repair has been presented, we hope the story is useful for novice craftsmen. The pros themselves know how to fix the problem.

An oil cooler is a very reliable heating device. He has been working for years without creating unnecessary problems for his master. But the time comes, and even he starts to malfunction. Someone just gets rid of it, someone carries it to the workshop, and someone tries to repair the oil heater with their own hands.

How difficult is this process? Let's figure it out together.

Device device

Oil cooler Watt WOH-80

The components of an oil heater are:

Hermetic body in the form of an accordion, consisting of two panels welded to each other. Technical oil is pumped inside, and in almost all models air remains in small quantities. But this does not harm the device, because oil, when it comes into contact with air, does not create conditions for corrosion. If there was water instead, the probability of rupture of metal structures would be very high.
In the lower part, a heating element is inserted into the device on the side. It is with its help that the oil and the radiator itself are heated.
A control and safety unit is installed next to the heating element. Its main and important element is a fused thermostat. The first is responsible for setting the required temperature regime, and the second is for the safety of operation. If, for any reason, oil starts to flow out of the housing, the fuse will work and stop the supply of electricity to the heating element.

Today, manufacturers use disposable wire-type fuses or reusable bimetallic pills. As for the control relays, in oil heaters they are similar to an electric kettle, and not to irons. In the design, the relay hangs in the air without touching the device case.

Each device has two switches. Three wires are suitable for each - a phase, zero from the heating element and a wire from a thermal relay. Three wires are required for the backlighting of the switches to work.

The electrical circuit of an oil heater is practically the same as in irons, electric kettles and other heating devices. It is simple yet reliable. Usually, two heating elements are installed in all these heaters, and when both are turned on at once, electricity consumption increases greatly. But at the same time, the time to reach the operating temperature increases. If the temperature in the rooms is low, then even with two heating elements turned on, the device can work without turning off.

The metal case, which covers the power and safety unit of the device, has ventilation slots at the top and bottom. If you close them, then the device will not suffer from this, but it will be difficult to work. It will turn off faster, but not turn on so soon. Therefore, it is recommended not to hang items to dry on the radiator. If this happens, try not to cover the ventilation gaps.

We repair the heater

The appearance of the heater gives the impression that it is a single whole, that is, the electrical unit and the body are connected by means of a rolling. But this is only an appearance. Pay attention to the inscription "do not cover" - under it there are several screws with which the cover is held on the case. They need to be unscrewed, but the lid will not come off, because a spring is installed at its bottom that holds it. Just remove it and remove the cover.

Now pay attention to the heating element. It is sealed tightly and hermetically. The manufacturers did this on purpose so that the curious would not go in there. These tubular heating elements last for decades, so there is no point in touching them. If one of them is out of order, then it is better to purchase a new oil heater. No one can repair such a breakdown with their own hands. To do this, you will have to replace the elements, but at home and even in some workshops, it is impossible to roll the heating element back into the case with 100% tightness. The bottom line is constantly leaking oil, which can lead to big trouble.

But everyone can wipe the connection elements with alcohol. All of them are made in the form of terminals, so it will not be a big problem to disconnect, wipe and reconnect them. It is important here not to confuse anything by installing the wire to a specific terminal.

The same goes for replacing parts of the power supply and security. It will be difficult to repair any of them with your own hands. And if you are not a specialist in this matter, then you are unlikely to succeed. Therefore, there is only one way out - to replace the failed elements with new ones. All of them are held by screws or brackets, so it won't be too difficult to remove them. Again, we remind you that your main task is not to confuse the connection wires. After all, the electrical circuit of the radiator is the basis for its correct and efficient operation.

Tank repair

Oil heater Forte EW-RD

The oil is drained first. Pay attention to its grade. The fact is that during the repair of the oil heater case, some of the oil will spill out, and it will have to be replenished. At the same time, it is impossible to mix mineral oil with synthetic oil. Its volume should be such that an air cushion remains inside the case. It is needed to expand the oil.
Usually the metal body of the radiator is welded or soldered. The first option is preferable. But not every home craftsman has this opportunity, so many people choose soldering. Please note that when brazing the oil cooler, you must use silver, brass, or copper-phosphorus solder. Tin can not be used. A burner is required. During the soldering process, water is poured into the tank. After the end of the work, the body must be dried.
Oil is not poured into the repaired tank as usual. It must be evaporated at a temperature of + 90C. It is not recommended to do a higher temperature, as the oil will begin to oxidize.

Sometimes small holes in the body are closed with a threaded connection. The repair method is not very reliable, but it is acceptable as a temporary option. It is important here to seal the joint well. In the process of a reusable cycle - heating and cooling - any sealant will begin to crack, so that smudges cannot be avoided.

Repair of heating elements in the heater

As for replacing the heating element with your own hands, this heating element is selected by power. And if you do decide to change it yourself, you will have to sweat. Flaring will not be so difficult, but doing the flaring again is a big problem. Some models of oil heaters are equipped with removable heating elements, which makes them easier to repair. But even in this case, it is necessary to devote a lot of time and attention to the junction of the case and the heating element. Any gaskets and sealants will not last long, and the likelihood that you will return to repair work again is very high.

It is better to use electric welding to close the hole in the tank. To do this, you need a thin sheet inverter. Before starting welding work, it is imperative to remove rust from the edges of the crack or hole. Repairing the tank in this way is the best option, which increases your chances of success.

Conclusion on the topic

So, it is possible to repair the oil cooler with your own hands, but is it worth it? The price of the device on the market is not very high, and the heater itself serves for a long time, so you should not risk avoiding the small costs associated with the purchase of a new unit. But if you just want to dig at your leisure in the electrical part or work with welding, then go for it, taking into account all these recommendations.