How to close the shower in the country. How to make a shower in the country with your own hands

If you spend the warm season in your country house or in a suburban area, then before the start of the season you should spend some time and build a wooden summer shower with your own hands. Even if you have a shower in your house, such a structure will not be superfluous for sure: in the summer heat, dousing yourself with cool water, slightly heated under the sun, is really very pleasant.

Moreover, such a design is mounted quite simply, so even not the most experienced master can cope with the task.

Tools and materials

Before starting work, we need to stock up on everything we need.

Wooden bars with a section of 50x50 mm and a length of up to 2.5 m. We will need from 4 to 6 pieces of such parts for the manufacture of vertical supports.
Bars or thick boards for the upper and lower trim, as well as to reinforce the frame.
Wooden slats for flooring.
Clapboard for shower cubicle wall cladding.

Advice!
The best option would be to buy larch blanks.
Maple, pine and ash also tolerate loads well, but cope worse with moisture.
In principle, oak can also be used, but for this purpose it is unnecessarily expensive.

Roof water tank. It is advisable to purchase a special container with a wide mouth and a lower branch pipe, to which a faucet and a shower head are attached.
If necessary, a shower tray (you can do without it).
Various accessories - towel racks, shelves, curtains, etc.

In addition, we will need consumables:

Fasteners - self-tapping screws or nails.
Concrete for the installation of supports in the ground.
Materials for arranging a drainage well or.
Means for impregnating wood and protecting it from moisture and microorganisms.

As for tools, here you can get by with a standard set:

Trench tool for earthworks.
Devices for mixing concrete (mixer or regular trough)
Wood saw (disc, reciprocating or hacksaw).
Drill or screwdriver.
Building level.
Hand tool.
Brush or spray for applying moisture barrier impregnation.

When everything is ready, you can start work.

Drainage options

drain hole

Before proceeding with the construction of a shower room, you need to understand where all the waste water will go. The easiest way is to drain it to the ground, but this is only possible if the shower is located at a distance from the site, and even on well-drained soil. Otherwise, we cannot avoid getting polluted water into the beds or into the sources of water intake.

Most often, a separate drainage well is equipped for the shower:

At the selected site, we dig a hole up to a depth of one and a half meters.
We protect the walls of the pit from getting wet and collapsing by installing wooden formwork, ceramic brick masonry or old car tires.

Advice!
The price of a quality brick is very high, therefore, for arranging drain pits, they most often use battle, or they take stones that were in use, but still retain their shape.

We lay drainage material at the bottom of the well. For this purpose, either pebbles or large gravel are used.
From above we make the sides on which the frame of the shower stall will rest.

Septic tank or cesspool

If there is a cesspool or septic tank on the site, and we plan to install a shower no further than 10 meters from these structures, you can simply equip the gutter:

At the installation site of the shower, we dig a shallow (up to 30 cm) pit. It will have .
From the pit to the septic tank, we dig a trench up to 20 cm wide. The optimal slope towards the drain tank is about 3 - 5 cm per 1 m.
Then you can proceed in two ways: either concrete the bottom of the trench and block it from above, leaving several revision gratings, or lay a sewer pipe for outdoor use. The second option is more preferable, and in terms of costs it will be approximately equivalent to the first.

At the same time, all wastewater generated under the shower will be transported as quickly as possible to the septic tank, where it will be included in the process of waste decomposition and infiltration of the purified liquid into the ground.

Important! If the design of your septic tank provides for regular pumping, then with the addition of a shower, the number of drains will approximately double. This fact should be taken into account when planning preventive measures.

Soul building

Frame and upholstery

If we take as a basis the drawings of a wooden summer shower given in the article, anyone can build such a structure with their own hands.

However, beginners should carefully study the algorithm of work in order to avoid annoying mistakes.

The shower stall usually has a small area with a considerable height.. This makes the structure unstable, therefore, most often it is installed on supports buried in the ground.

Note!
This does not apply to lightweight portable showers on a slatted frame - they are usually simply tied with wire to reinforcing bars driven into the ground.

To install supports, we make nests in the soil up to half a meter deep.. We fill the bottom of each nest with gravel - it will not allow the rack to sag under its own weight.
The lower parts of the racks are impregnated with an antiseptic, wrapped with roofing material and concreted in the ground. After pouring concrete, we correct the position of the supports according to the level and fix them in a strictly vertical position.
After that, you need to give the concrete time to set strength.. Since the load on the supports will not be very large, the prescribed 28 days are rarely waited: a week is enough.

From below we fasten the strapping of the bars. On them we install either a shower tray purchased in advance, or a grate of slats connected with gaps of 0.5 - 1 cm for water to flow out.

Advice!
The grate must be carefully sanded, otherwise the risk of getting a splinter in the bare foot will become very noticeable.

In the middle part we mount the crossbars and reinforce them with braces. We connect all parts with the help of nails or self-tapping screws, having previously impregnated with a moisture-proof composition.
From the bars we make the upper strapping. We also install transverse logs on which the water tank will be held.

Outside, we sheathe the shower stall with boards (lining is best). Most often, the sheathing is not brought to the floor by about 25 - 35 cm - this ensures optimal air circulation.
In front we install a wooden door with external and internal latches. Instead of a door, sometimes they simply hang a polyethylene curtain: this design is easier to manufacture, but less convenient to use.

Advice!
On the outer wall next to the door, it is worth attaching several hooks.
We will hang clothes and towels on them: so they will not get wet during water procedures.

Equipment and decor

We just have to equip the water supply system.

And here it is best to implement classic solutions:

We install a water tank on the top of the shower. An industrial container made of dark plastic, with a neck located on top and a nozzle for a shower head on the bottom, is perfect.

Note!
Instead of a factory container, it is quite possible to use both metal barrels and polymer containers.
The main thing is that the design is airtight and does not emit toxic substances in contact with water.

In areas where the only source of water is a well without a pump, you have to fill the tank manually, with buckets. To do this, we attach a sufficiently strong ladder to the back or side.
If there is a water supply system on the site (it doesn’t matter if it’s central or autonomous), then it’s much easier to connect a hose to the tank on the roof. By connecting it to the water supply, we can quickly and effortlessly fill the tank with the amount of water we need.
In summer, the water in the tank heats up quickly. But in spring and autumn, taking a cold shower is not very pleasant. To ensure more efficient heating, we build a rack frame around the tank, which we cover with a transparent film or glass. Such an impromptu greenhouse will provide a comfortable water temperature even on a cloudy day.
Inside the booth we fix a watering can with a tap, checking the tightness of the pipe.
On one of the walls we attach a shelf for soap and a hook for a washcloth.

After that, the shower can be used. And so that it lasts as long as possible, before the start of each summer season, the booth should be sanded and treated with an antiseptic, and then either varnished for outdoor use or painted on wood.

Conclusion

A summer shower made of wood, made according to the above algorithm, is quite simple, reliable and convenient. However, you can always make adjustments to the design by introducing either your own ideas or technical solutions gleaned from the informative video in this article.

Shower cabins for summer cottages are one of those "structures" that are easy to do on your own, but it is very difficult to do without them. There are a huge number of different options for shower cabins, each master brings his own improvements to their design. We will not dwell on complex and expensive options, we will consider the most “budget”, but very functional solutions.

Before starting construction, decide what you want to have as a result, what features and characteristics a shower cabin should have. The specific features of the shower stall depend on:

the number of people living in the country. This indicator affects the volume of the tank for heating water and the need for a drainage device;
landscape features of the suburban area and the physical characteristics of the soil. Showers are best installed on small hills, this will allow in most cases to do without a special drainage system. The installation location of the shower cubicle should be the sunniest, not very far from the cottage. It is desirable that there are garden paths in this place. Another important point is the availability of water. If you have any automatic water supply system - great, we will tell you how to make automatic filling of the tank. If the water in the country is taken in buckets from the well, you will also have to fill the tank in the shower stall manually;
manufacturing materials. The frame can be made from shaped steel, square pipes or wood. Each material has its own characteristics. The walls are sheathed with clapboard, cellular polycarbonate or metal profiles. There are cheaper options - pull a tarpaulin, opaque plastic wrap or ordinary dense matter over the frame;
locations. The cabin can be freestanding or attached to the outer wall of the country house. There are options for a mobile booth - if necessary, it is transferred to a new place, does not require the construction of foundations. For such options, ultra-light load-bearing structures and sheathing materials are selected;
engineering features of the water heating tank and the shower drain control system.

Gabion outdoor showers
outdoor shower

Outdoor shower made of brick (stone)
Large wooden outdoor shower

You should not “save” on the dimensions of the booths, make it at least 2.2 meters high, the base dimensions at least 1 × 1 m. The fact is that there should be a place for bath accessories and clothes in the booth. Consider step by step two options for booths - with a metal and wooden frame.

Summer shower prices

outdoor shower shower cabin

Shower cubicle with metal frame

Metal shower Shower cubicle with metal frame
Do-it-yourself shower cabin in the country house photo

For the production of work, you will need square pipes with a cross section of at least 20 × 30 mm, sheet metal with a thickness of 1 mm and a corner of 45 × 45 mm. Tools - an angle grinder (grinder) and a welding machine.

GOST 8639 82 steel square pipes
Galvanized iron sheet
Corner 45 x 45

Step 1. Draw a sketch of the cabin.

The height of the booth is approximately 2.2 meters, the size of the perimeter is 1 × 1 m.

For rigidity, provide three rows of jumpers: at the top, in the middle and at the bottom. For the lower lintels, it is better to use a corner; a wooden grate will be installed on its shelves. In the upper part, you need to make stops to place the tank under water, the specific dimensions of the stops depend on the dimensions of the tank.

The side surfaces can be sheathed with a metal profile, cellular polycarbonate, plastic or wooden clapboard, or covered with various flexible materials. For each material, you need to consider places for fastening. It is impossible to drill mounting holes in a square pipe; weld metal plates for this purpose.

Do not get too carried away with cellular polycarbonate for sheathing. It is good in many respects, but only for a limited time. One of the drawbacks that manufacturers never mention is that over time, moss will begin to grow in the combs. And no seals will help, the force of nature will overcome any protective measures. The view of sheet polycarbonate with moss inside will not please you, and this is to put it mildly. In general, we advise you to cover shower cabins with light and cheap soft materials. They can be changed to new ones every season, the cabin will always have an attractive appearance without much loss of time and money.

metal sheet prices

a metal sheet

Step 2

If you already have an idea about the structure of the frame, you can start making it.

Start work by cutting metal elements. Cut 4 pipes 2.2 meters long (vertical supports). If you want to make opening doors in the booth, then for them you will need to cut off two more pieces of pipe, the length may already be smaller, it is enough to keep the dimensions of the door in height within 1.5 m.

Under the grating stop you will need four corners of one meter. The same length must be prepared for pipes for jumpers of side surfaces and doors. They will need two for each element of the booth. You need to cut the parts only according to the template, all angles are strictly 90 °.

Very important: follow the safety regulations while working with the grinder, injuries can be very serious. Some "craftsmen" install cutting discs in such a way that sparks fly in the opposite direction from them during operation. This is the biggest mistake! In this position, the grinder undermines with great effort, it is impossible to hold the tool in your hands.

Step 3.

Check the cuts and clean them for welding. You can not do a chamfer, the strength of the weld will withstand the load anyway.

Step 4.

To increase the strength of the structure, prepare metal equilateral corners, the length of the legs is 5 ÷ 10 centimeters. It is desirable to install them at all corners of the frame and doors. Under the feet you need to weld square stops ≈20 × 20 cm.

Triangles to reinforce the structure

Step 5

Frame welding. Work very carefully, never immediately lay a full seam on one side. During cooling, it will pull the metal, it will be very difficult to return its original position. First, start the adjoining pipes on one side, align the structure, and only after that you can put a full seam on the opposite side. The seam has cooled down - brew the place where you baited.

For welding it is possible to use electrodes of alternating voltage Ø4 mm.

This is the most versatile electrode diameter, they can weld metal with a thickness of 1÷4 mm. Correctly select the current strength, the metal should melt under the electrode to the desired depth, but not completely cut through the pipe wall. If you have no experience in welding, it is better to seek help from a professional. In the end, this will cost less than transferring expensive material into marriage yourself.

Work must be carried out on a flat area, constantly monitor the corners of the structure. The frame will stand on metal plates-legs measuring approximately 20 × 20 centimeters. Prepare them and boil them.

Prices for AC voltage electrodes

AC voltage electrodes

Step 6

Frame assembly. You cannot do this work yourself, you need to call an assistant. Weld individual elements of the frame in the indicated way, constantly check its spatial position. In the lower part, the corners are welded on which the wooden grate will lie; on top, make a structure for the water tank.

Summer shower to the country house - frame

Step 7

Finishing. Carefully remove all burrs and sharp corners with a grinder, clean metal structures from rust, oil and dirt.

Removing the weld At this stage, you can stop or continue processing for a better result.

For painting, use special paints for metal. You will have to paint at least twice, after the first time the metal will be visible. Do not use a pneumatic spray gun, it is only suitable for painting large surfaces. In your case, most of the paint will "leave" into the air. Paint only with a brush, for the whole painting you will not need more than one or two hours.

In the photo - anti-corrosion compounds for metal

Next, you can make wooden grates under your feet and proceed with the installation of a water tank. We will tell you how to install the container and connect the shower at the end of the article after describing the manufacture of the wooden frame of the shower stall.

Video - Do-it-yourself summer shower on the site

Shower cubicle with wooden frame

The linear dimensions can be the same as in the version with a metal frame. Production material - wooden blocks 50 × 50 mm, boards 50 × 100 mm, select specific dimensions taking into account the total weight of the water tank. Boards and bars need to be passed through the thickness gauge - the size will even out and the roughness will be removed.

Step 1. Draw a sketch. It is useful not only during operation, it is much easier to choose the best design option with its help. It is better to correct your mistakes on paper than on the finished product. Draw several options on paper, think over the location of stops, shelves and a tank for a container. Compare several sketches of shower cabins and choose the one that suits you best.

Step 2 Cut off all the blanks for the frame in size; according to the scheme, it does not differ from the metal one. Once again, pay attention - follow the dimensions, make blanks only according to templates.

Step 3 On a flat area, start assembling individual structural elements. The connection is best done in half a tree. If this is difficult for you, use metal plates and corners on self-tapping screws.

Step 4 Assemble the individual frame elements into a single structure. If there are doors, fix them on hinges.

Instead of doors, you can make an ordinary curtain. Consider the location of the water tank.

Attach shelves for bath accessories and hooks for towels and clothes on the inside. Prepare a wooden lattice for the legs.

Wooden lattice - example

Step 5 The ends of the vertical racks must be protected from decay. You can treat them with special antiseptics, or you can soak them several times with drying oil or sunflower oil. By the way, drying oil is an unrefined technical oil of oilseeds, including sunflower.

drying oil prices

We will give some practical advice on how to arrange a shower stall.

Foundation

You can find advice to put shower cabins on a screw foundation, pour a concrete platform under them, etc. We do not recommend doing such work for several reasons.

Firstly, a shower cabin is not a structure for which special foundations are required.
Secondly, we can guarantee you that over time you will have a desire to build a warm shower, and for this you will have to dismantle the booth.

Under the foundation, we recommend using paving slabs or wide paving stones. Remove a small layer of earth under them, level them horizontally and lay tiles in prepared places. Tamp it a little - this will eliminate the appearance of distortions while using the booth.

Video - Rules for laying paving slabs

Water drainage

And here you can find tips on how to set up an entire engineering system. What does practice show? The volume of the water tank rarely allows more than two people to take a shower at the same time, the consumption for each is about 20 ÷ 30 liters. Water heating time, depending on the weather, is from five hours. We assure you that during this time the used water will calmly go into the ground. And yet - you should not be afraid that without a sump "unpleasant odors will appear", this is not a sewer.

Water tank and shower

You can build the prettiest and most durable shower enclosure, but showering in it will be very inconvenient. The reason is the incorrect installation of the water and shower tank. How to avoid such trouble? We will give some practical recommendations.

Water tank. You can use two options: plastic and metal.

plastic containers

Advantages: relatively low price, wide choice of capacity, ease of installation.

But there are also significant drawbacks.

Firstly, to increase the heating efficiency, it is recommended to use black plastic containers, and this option is difficult to find and, moreover, to choose the best option in terms of capacity. It is almost impossible to repaint a white container black.
Secondly, the physical indicators of the strength of the plastic do not allow you to securely fix the place where the shower is attached. Constant fluctuations of the outlet pipe violate the tightness of the connection, leaks appear. In addition, due to frequent bending forces, the effect of material fatigue appears in these places. And this can lead to a complete separation of the soul with all the consequences.

metal containers

Advantages - the high strength of the metal guarantees tightness and reliability of shower connection. The metal is easily painted black, and this color significantly increases the efficiency of water heating by sunlight.

Disadvantages - weight increases. You can ignore corrosion processes, a thick-walled barrel will stand for decades. Moreover, a barrel of water corrodes much more slowly than an empty one. We recommend using metal barrels: cheap and reliable.

Arrangement and operation

Another important question is how to fill the containers with water. Filling with buckets is not the best option. We strongly advise you to take all measures so that the water is filled with a hose. If you have a well or well located at a great distance from the booth, then you can make a temporary line with a flexible hose from the dacha. We will also tell you how to make water pouring automatic. To do this, you can use an ordinary float from the toilet cistern. Adjust it for a response difference of about twenty liters of water, taking into account the dimensions of the container. This will make it possible to constantly maintain a full “refueling” of the barrel, the water will constantly heat up, you will not have to prematurely end the process of taking a shower due to lack of water. Another plus of “automatic” is that the possibility of water overflow is excluded. Waterlogging of the soil near the shower is undesirable.

You can meet the proposal to take water for the shower from the tank using a float. The end of the flexible intake hose is fixed on the float (you can take a piece of foam of the appropriate size), as the water is used up, the float will lower, the intake is always made from the top, warmest layer. Such a device gives an effect, but it is insignificant. The fact is that the water in the containers heats up from the walls, the hot water rises, the cold falls down. The movement of water by volume is almost constant, which means that there is not much difference in water temperature in the tank depending on the height.

Another improvement is to make electric heating, which will allow you to have warm water regardless of weather conditions. Yes, the water will be hot, but who dares to take a shower if the temperature is low outside? But this is not all problems. During the electric heating device, the rules of the PUE should be strictly observed, and they impose very strict requirements for such work. In addition, it will be necessary to install automatic switching on / off of heaters. Do you need such "difficulties" in an ordinary shower stall on the street? If there is a need to use a shower cabin in cold weather, make a shower room in the cottage. Such a decision will have to be made in the event of a long stay on the site.

If your shower is attached directly to the container (there is no shower hose), then a set of additional measures should be taken to securely fix it. Using stops (wooden or metal), fix the branch pipe, eliminate even the theoretical possibility of vibrations during use of the tap. The crane is better to install valve type. It has a much easier stroke, the water pressure is regulated gradually, the working surfaces do not oxidize - the smoothness of the stroke does not change over time.

During the construction of the shower cubicle, consider the possibility of adding small additional rooms to it. They can be used both as an extension of the shower room or a device next to it, as well as for a separate locker room.

Industrial showers

A wide choice of both price and performance characteristics allows you to choose the best option, taking into account your own preferences and individual characteristics of the suburban area. Industrial shower cabins can be completely plastic, metal with sheathing in various materials or tented. Complete with water tanks, cabins (metal or wood), pallets and cladding materials.

Shower for giving plastic

According to consumer reviews, using the booths is quite convenient, but there are several significant drawbacks. Plastic booths do not meet the required strength indicators, if there are children in the country, then the season of work without repair of such a design will be a great success.

The second disadvantage is the high price. A do-it-yourself shower stall will cost an order of magnitude cheaper. There are also quite cheap options for industrial booths, but in terms of strength they can be classified as “single-season”. You should not throw away money, for this money you can build a wonderful, durable and reliable shower stall yourself.

Outdoor shower cabin “Economy”

The third drawback is that mass production is designed for the average user. This is natural; all manufacturing enterprises operate according to this scheme. By creating a booth with your own hands, you can do all the calculations for yourself, change the location of the shower, its height, the diameter of the drain holes, adjustment mechanisms, etc. In addition, there are no restrictions on installing additional equipment, changing dimensions in height and width, devices of additional decorative elements. There are craftsmen who make very original shower stalls.

Video - Shower cabin country tentovanny

Conclusion

Each suburban area requires constant improvement, do these things. You can start with a shower stall, then build a gazebo, then a bathhouse, and so on, from simple to complex. You will see from personal experience - there is nothing better than what is made by hand.

An outdoor shower is one of the most significant buildings on a suburban area. How to equip a shower in the country with your own hands, having built a reliable and durable structure with a minimum of financial investment? Guided by the advice of the master, you can easily cope with the task.

In the hot months, the presence of a summer shower is one of the conditions for a comfortable stay in a suburban area. The shower gives you the opportunity to freshen up after a hard day, removing the accumulated fatigue and energizing for new things.

Summer shower of a simple layout at their summer cottage

There is nothing complicated in building a shower in the country with your own hands. You just need to sketch a drawing and decide on the size of the future structure, prepare the necessary materials and allocate some free time.

Outdoor shower design

There are many options for arranging a summer shower. It could be a simple timber frame structure with a small tank on top and a curtain to keep out the wind and prying eyes. Or a full-fledged cabin with strong walls and a roof that can withstand a heavy barrel filled with water.

Summer shower design options

But in any case, an outdoor shower should be comfortable and spacious. Thinking over the dimensions of the future shower stall, keep in mind that it is necessary to provide a place protected from water splashes for storing bath accessories and hanging clothes. This will require from 40 to 60 cm of floor space.
According to the experience of the masters who have already built a shower in the country with their own hands, for a comfortable adoption of water procedures, there is a sufficient room with a size of 160x100 cm or 190x140 cm and a height of 2.5-5 meters.

Tip: A small drawing or a simple drawing will help you correctly calculate the required amount of building materials, preventing unnecessary costs.

Site selection

The design of the summer shower assumes that the water will be heated from solar heat. Therefore, it is better to allocate a well-lit area for the installation of a shower cabin, where the sun's rays will actively warm up the water tank throughout the daylight hours.

The best place to build a shower is a sunny place.

When choosing a place, it is worth considering the convenience of water supply, ensuring, if possible, automatic filling of the tank.
It would be wise to take care in advance about the flow of water by placing the structure on a natural elevation, or by making a small embankment for this so that after washing it enters the septic tank or sump.

Foundation preparation

When building a lightweight frame structure, laying the foundation is not at all necessary, but when building a stationary summer shower, this stage of work cannot be bypassed.
To carry out the work you will need:

Roulette and level;
Pegs and lace;
Bayonet shovel;
garden drill;
Pieces of roofing material;
Metal grid;
Crushed stone and sand;
cement mortar.

Preparing the base for the summer shower

The dimensions of the foundation depend on the building materials from which the building will be built. For the construction of a shower of cinder block or brick for the arrangement of a slab foundation, it will be necessary to dig a pit about 15 cm deep.
The work is carried out in several stages. Having decided on the place for arranging the summer shower, they prepare the site:

With the help of a tape measure, pegs and a cord, a site of the required size is marked out.
In the designated area, a layer of turf is removed with a depth of 15 cm.
Level the base of the pit.
The bottom of the pit is lined with a "cushion" of sand and poured with mortar, creating a flat surface.

Tip: If it is planned to use a wooden or metal frame as the floor of the shower room, before pouring the base, it is necessary to prepare a place for racks by installing sticks of the required diameter vertically wrapped with roofing felt.

Foundation laying

When performing a floor screed, it is better to use a level and guides, because only a horizontal surface can become a reliable basis for the entire structure. At this stage of construction, it is also worth taking care of arranging the drain, in parallel with the concrete tie, by completing a gutter reinforced with a metal mesh.

The foundation for the construction of a capital summer shower

Using a columnar or pile foundation for a frame summer shower, you do not have to dig a pit. It is enough to make holes about 1 meter deep using a garden drill at the place of installation of the support pillars.
It is necessary to insert metal racks into them, the height of which is 1.2 m, and D = 90 mm, so that the racks rise above the ground by 20 cm. :3 and wait until it acquires the necessary strength.

Important: To extend the life of metal poles, the ends buried in the ground must be pre-treated with used engine oil.

Drain arrangement

A septic tank for a summer shower is best placed not under the shower cabin, but at a short distance from it. This will prevent it from flooding with large volumes of water, thereby preventing the destruction of the foundation and soil.

For its arrangement, they dig a hole about 2 meters deep, decorating the walls with brick or cinder block masonry. Some craftsmen use car tires for this purpose, laying them on top of each other in the form of a well. A chute is brought to the finished septic tank to drain the water and covered with a shield knocked down from wooden boards.

Option for arranging a drain for a summer shower

It is better to arrange the walls of the gutter for water drainage with a waterproof material: roofing material, hydrostekloizol or ordinary PVC film. It is placed under a slope so that the drain is directed towards the drainage tank.
In the shower stall itself, a metal or enameled tray is installed, which can be purchased at any specialized store without much hassle. From it, water will flow directly into the gutter.

Tip: You can partially solve the issue of soil drainage by planting moisture-loving perennials near the shower stall, such as a bathing suit, buzulnik, hazel grouse, iris, loosestrife.

Frame erection

A summer shower made of beams or boards is one of the most popular options for a building that is needed in the household. For the construction of the structure, it is better to use conifers, the main advantage of which is:

high density;
moisture resistance;
High resin content;
Ability to withstand heavy loads.

Beam shower frame

For the construction of the frame, bars of 100x100 mm are used. First, the lower frame is assembled, fixing it by means of a bolted connection to the support posts or screw piles. When mounting, it is better to use long bolts with full coincidence of the axes.

Having installed vertically wooden supports, perform the upper trim. To give the structure additional stability, the side frames are fixed with spacers.
Planed coniferous wood is excellent as a sheathing. It has a presentable appearance and harmoniously fits into the surrounding landscape.

Important: To extend the life of wood, it is desirable to treat it with an antiseptic and water-repellent composition, or simply coat it with 1-2 layers of varnish for outdoor use.

Building the walls of a wooden summer shower

Special seals will help to ensure a snug fit of the door. The door to the booth also needs to be painted or proliferated.
For interior decoration of the booth, you can use plastic panels, oilcloth or linoleum. Photos with interesting design options can be peeped on the Internet.

Barrel installation

When choosing a barrel of the required volume, they are usually guided by the formula that up to 40 liters of water is enough for one person. To equip a summer shower for a family of three or four, it is enough to install a 200-liter barrel. If you choose between a plastic and metal container, then it is worth noting that plastic is lighter in weight, but metal (painted dark) heats up faster.

Different schemes for supplying water with natural heating

A little trick: To ensure faster heating of water, the outer surface of the roof under the barrel can be lined with reflective material such as galvanizing or foil.
The container is laid on the roof and fixed with straps. It remains only to choose the desired scheme for supplying water to the cabin:

cut two holes for filling with water and connecting a faucet with a diffuser, fill the container and enjoy water procedures.
the pedal scheme is similar to the first one, but water is supplied using a pedal and not a valve, as in the first case.

The second option is more complex, but at the same time very economical. water enters the shower dosed and at the right time, which is very convenient. Both options with natural water heating. It is also possible to connect electric water heating. The presence of an electric heater in a barrel entails the rejection of a barrel made of simple plastic (it is better to use metal) and the inclusion of another container for supplying cold water to the circuit.

Scheme for arranging a tank for a summer shower

Cold water will save a lot of electricity, because washing only with heated water is not very practical and convenient, because there is no way to adjust the temperature of the water supply. You will also need a mixer or some kind of circuit with two taps and the need for electricity supply. Although electricity is desirable anyway, it is necessary to light the shower.

Building a shower in the country: video

Naturally heated shower: video

Summer shower in the country: photo

This will require skills in installing plumbing and laying tiles. But even a novice builder will cope with a simple shower on a finished pallet. The main thing is to correctly assess your capabilities.

Of course, it is much easier to plan a future shower room in a house under construction. In this case, the fantasy is almost unlimited:

construction of a shower room with an inclined floor;
device "recessed" in the floor of the pallet;
installation of a monolithic pallet with a side;
installation of the finished pallet;
connection of a modern shower cabin.

So, to organize an inclined floor, even at the construction stage, its level must be made at least 10-15 cm lower than the floors in other rooms. The same applies to a shower with a tray, the edges of which are located at floor level - so that you do not have to make a threshold in the bathroom.

If you need to re-equip the shower room in the finished house, and there is no way to dismantle the floors, you will have to limit yourself to only the last three “floor” options. Their advantage is undoubted - such a shower can be made with your own hands, even without professional skills.

Features of piping in the shower

The second method is much more complicated - first, water enters the collector, and separate pipes already depart from it to each object - a sink, shower, toilet bowl and other appliances. At the same time, the problem of pressure drop is solved with the simultaneous inclusion of several points of water intake.

Without special skills, it will not work to make the collector system correctly, therefore, in do-it-yourself houses, they use a serial connection. And so that boiling water does not pour out of the shower when filling the washing machine, it is enough to use pipes of different diameters - 3/4 ”for a common pipe and 1/2” for connecting appliances.

Another important point is the organization of the drain from the shower. When choosing a siphon, you need to decide in advance:

When choosing a place for a shower, the distance of the sewer connection is important - if it is more than 3 m, you will have to deaerate to remove the air coming with the water.

Waterproofing and ventilation of the shower - what to look for

The organization of a shower room, even in a wooden house, is not a problem thanks to modern materials and solutions. So, you can level and protect the walls with moisture-resistant drywall with mandatory sizing and puttying of the joints. Sheets should not reach 0.5-1 cm to the floor. If the walls are concrete or brick, you can immediately start finishing them.

The waterproofing is already applied to the screed and should cover the entire floor with a minimum of 15 cm on the walls. The walls in contact with the shower are also covered with waterproofing.

It can be both mastic and built-up roofing material. Special attention should be paid to the exit points of pipes and electrical appliances. At the junction of walls and floor, as well as at the corners, a sealing tape is additionally glued, the edges of which are also rubbed with mastic.

But proper organization of waterproofing in the shower is only half the battle. Constant high humidity, even if it does not affect the facing material in any way, can ruin the most modern bathroom. Therefore, forced ventilation should be provided at the planning stage.

The direction of air in the ventilation shaft, if it also affects living rooms, should be from “dry” rooms to “wet” ones - bathroom and kitchen. Otherwise, constant dampness in the bedroom will be ensured. At the same time, it is advisable to do the hood even if there is a window - in the cold season it is hardly rational to constantly ventilate the shower room.

Shower with a ready-made tray - a simple and aesthetic solution

Installation of the pallet is extremely simple - just follow the instructions. Steel and acrylic pallets, in most cases, are equipped with special legs. But even in this case, it is better to put the pallet on a monolithic base with a support in the center - so that it does not bend or move.

The installation process includes five steps:

To simplify installation, instead of mounting glass screens, you can attach a curtain bracket. To give the shower originality, you can use non-standard brackets - oval, semicircular or even spiral.

How to make a shower without a pallet

A shower without a tray looks very stylish. Such a shower in the house is convenient for children and the elderly, as well as for bathing pets. The absence of a border is compensated by the correct slope for draining the water, so you do not have to worry about the complete flooding of the bathroom.

The process of organizing such a shower is also quite simple, although it takes a lot of time:

In order not to double-screed the entire floor, you can make a shower with a border. To do this, bricks are laid along the desired contour, and the whole process is repeated, but only in the space limited by the curb.

How to make a shower with such a pallet with your own hands is very intelligibly shown in the video:

A summer resident who wants to preserve his health and good mood, after field work, should wash off the dust and put on clean clothes. And for this, a shower cabin is needed on the site. You can make such a structure with your own hands, observing all the subtleties of construction.

Types of country shower

The problem of adopting hygiene procedures at their summer cottage can be solved in several ways. Consider them, moving from simple to complex.

Portable

The portable device is sold as a set in a suitcase container. There are two varieties:

with a soft polymer hanging bag with a volume of 16-20 l, equipped with a sprayer;
with a pump - suction depth up to 1.5 m - to which a shower head is connected with a hose.

A bag or a watering can can be hung just on a tree, but then you will have to wash in a bathing suit or swimming trunks. To bathe completely, you will need to build a kind of shower cabin from an opaque rolled material, such as polyethylene film or polypropylene (PP) tarpaulin, which is more preferable because it does not stick to the body.

Lightweight shower design can be installed anywhere - no foundation required

Such a fence is easiest to place near the wall of the house. Firstly, it is convenient to attach a cornice to the wall for hanging curtains, therefore, racks are not needed; secondly, in this case, the fence is required only on three sides. Thus, the cornice can be made semicircular by bending the heated PP pipe.

Pins or pipe sections are embedded in the wall, on which the cornice will be mounted. You will also need to attach a holder for hanging a bag or shower head with dowels.

The location of the shower near the wall of the house helps to save materials

The advantages of a portable shower are as follows:

low cost;
mobility;
no need not only for any construction, but even for the organization of a cesspool: water can drain directly into a flower bed.

It is clear that one should not expect anything special from this purely hiking option. The disadvantages will be:

the possibility of operation only in hot weather;
lack of water heating;
the impossibility of frequent and long-term use, since the soil at the place where water drains can quickly turn sour.

Modular

A modular shower is a completely finished cabin, often equipped with adjustable legs. The owner of such a shower will also not have to deal with drainage issues, since there is a built-in septic tank inside, the filler of which will need to be changed periodically.

The module is fully equipped and ready for operation.

The only drawback is the significant cost, which not every summer resident is ready to put up with.

Light summer shower

For a summer shower, a frame is made of polypropylene pipes, sheathed with rolled or rigid sheet material. Walls can also be formed from improvised materials, for example, from a willow vine like a wattle fence.

A garden shower with a wicker cabin looks attractive in a summer cottage

But it is best to use matte (non-visible) sheet polycarbonate - it partially transmits solar heat. An attractive feature of this material is that it can be bent to form a rigid, self-supporting wall (prestressed structure). Thus, the frames for the round shower enclosure made of polycarbonate will not be needed - the frame will consist of only two rings of PP pipe (they are also prestressed) located at the top and bottom.

Polycarbonate is not visible, but it transmits sunlight well

Requirements for polycarbonate are minimal: the cheapest 4 mm sheet with a 2R structure from any manufacturer will do.

A small water tank is installed on top of the cab, which may have an electric heater (today such tanks are commercially available).

Water tank can be heated

Being designed for full-scale use, such a shower needs a cesspool, and therefore you cannot attach it to the wall of the house. The cesspool, in order to avoid washing away the foundation with infiltrate, should be at least 15 m away from the house. But construction still cannot be considered difficult, since a foundation is not required for a light and plastic building even with high heaving of the soil.

All that needs to be done is to remove the fertile layer of soil and fill it with sand and gravel in layers of the same thickness (at least 15 cm each), then drive reinforcing bars into the ground, on which the frame will be put on.

In case of skew due to ground movements, the frame is made collapsible, connecting the PP pipes and corners not by welding, but by self-tapping screws (for this, the corners need to be taken a size larger). The shower will be easy to repair by replacing damaged parts. Self-tapping screws must be used phosphated - they can be recognized by their black color. Diameter - 4.2 mm.

As a soft lining, it is best to use PP tarpaulin. In cool weather, in a cabin made of such material it will be warmer than in polyethylene, and in hot weather it will not be so stuffy.

A significant disadvantage of a light shower is suitability for use only in warm weather.

All weather

"All-weather" implies the possibility of use throughout the summer season, including early spring and late autumn, when it is relatively cold outside. The building is also a frame, but in comparison with the previous version, it has a number of improvements:

in addition to the washing department, there is a dressing room;
the walls are equipped with insulation;
there is heating.

The frame must be built from wood or rolled metal - PP pipes have too low strength. Due to the weak resistance of these materials to the effects of dampness, it has to be raised above the ground, which requires a pile or column foundation. Sturdy frame allows you to install a more capacious water tank.

All-weather shower has two compartments

Capital

A building built of brick or foam blocks. Construction is time-consuming and expensive, but in terms of durability, such a shower far exceeds all others.

The foundation can be made in the form of a solid monolithic slab - due to the small size of the structure, it will not require large expenses.

Foundation shower required

Choice of frame material

Before starting construction, you need to choose the frame material. As it was said, plastic pipes disappear due to insufficient strength, so there are two options to choose from: wood or rolled metal.

Wood

Positive sides:

low cost;
ease of processing.

The disadvantage is a short service life, explained by susceptibility to decay and drying out.

Bars of a certain section are suitable for the frame

Specifically, you will need the following lumber:

for the lower harness: insulated shower - timber with a section of 150x150 mm, light - from 60x60 mm (optimal - 100x100 mm);
for racks, oblique connections and top trim: board with a section of 100x40 mm.

Rolled metal

It is important to understand that in this case we are not talking about galvanized metal profiles with a thickness of 1.5–2.5 mm - this material is not suitable for such tasks. A channel with a height of 50–80 mm is used as a lower trim, racks and other frame elements are made of a square pipe from 25x25 mm with a wall of 1.5 mm to 40x40 mm with a wall of 2 mm.

A shower room with such a frame will cost much more than a wooden one, and it’s more difficult to build it - steel is more difficult to process, and electric welding will be needed to connect the parts. But on the other hand, the gain will be significant: the frame will be stronger and more durable.

Metal construction is more durable

Calculation of the dimensions of the shower

The drawing shows the dimensions of the shower

Choosing a waste disposal method

Even if a cesspool or a septic tank for a toilet has already been built on the site, the shower room must be equipped with a separate structure. This is due to the presence of a large amount of alkali and surfactants in the shower drains, which can destroy the beneficial microflora in the septic tank.

Sanitary standards prescribe to make cesspools with a volume of 2 m 3 or more. But such a requirement is relevant for standard drains. In the case of a shower, their size will be much smaller, so the volume of the pit can be reduced. Since, due to the need to heat water, the shower somehow has to be taken with long pauses, its size can be taken equal to the volume of the shower tank for water.

Another important question is to what depth sewage can be dumped into the ground so that the chemistry contained in them does not poison the fertile layer. With a volley discharge of up to 50 l or a gradual discharge of up to 100 l / h, the safe depth is two thicknesses of the fertile layer. The country shower in these figures quite keeps within.

Therefore, instead of a full-fledged cesspool, a drainage well can be made from a metal barrel 0.85 mm high and with a volume of 200 liters. It can be guaranteed that such a height will be enough for sure, since a fertile layer over 40 cm thick is quite rare in summer cottages.

With a small thickness of humus, a smaller plastic barrel can also be used, the main thing is that it should not be smaller in volume than a shower tank for water.

You can build such a well right under the shower.

The wastewater receiver must be at least as large as the storage tank

If you decide, as is often advised, to make a drainage well from old tires, then do not forget to periodically disinfect it with bleach: water will stagnate in the interior of the tires.

Instrument preparation

The builder must have the following:

pegs and a skein of twine - for marking the territory;
garden drill;
shovel and bayonet shovels;
bubble and water (hose) levels;
plumb;
roulette;
wood saw;
grinder with a cutting disc for metal;
drill;
hammer, screwdriver (or screwdriver);
marker, chalk or pencil for marking materials.

At the installation site of the shower, the upper fertile soil layer is completely cut off to the underlying one.

Pile foundation construction

Piles must be installed at the corners of the building and, if necessary, along the perimeter so that the distance between adjacent supports does not exceed 1.5 m. -45 cm above the ground. This height is determined by the sum of the heights of the low tray (see below), the siphon attached to it and the ventilation gap, which should be 20–25 cm.

The height of the pile above the ground should be approximately 30-45 cm

Piles should be used bored. They are created in the following way:

If the ground is weak and you need to increase the bearing area, get a camouflage nozzle for the drill. It allows you to make a broadening at the base of the well, in which, after pouring concrete, a so-called camouflage heel is formed.

Another option: you can use as piles pieces of steel pipe with a diameter of 60 to 150 mm, the ends of which are flattened by sledgehammer blows. For driving, the same sledgehammer or headstock is used, made from a suitable piece of cast iron. The disadvantage of such piles is the high corrosion rate, which is due to the lack of waterproofing. In a bored pile, the concrete is protected from moisture by a pipe (asbestos must be coated with bituminous mastic).

Construction of a drainage well

The well is built in the following sequence:

A pit is dug with a depth equal to the height of the barrel.
A barrel with a cut off bottom is installed in a recess. If it does not have a cover, but only has a narrow neck, then an inspection hatch must be cut out in the upper plane. For him, you will need to pick up a tight-fitting lid.
Backfilling of the excavation is in progress.
Small crushed stone is poured inside the barrel with a layer of 15–20 cm thick.
Crushed stone is a good filter
In a thin stream, a liquid clay solution is evenly poured onto the backfill, prepared at the rate of 1–1.5 kg of clay (any one will do) onto a bucket of water. The pouring of the solution is stopped only when it completely covers the rubble.
After the solution has dried (it will take 1-2 days), the filter should be well agitated by repeated piercing over the entire surface with a sharpened reinforcing rod. If there is a welding machine, then for the convenience of work, the upper part of the barrel can be cut off, and after laying the filter, it can be welded again.
There is a filter inside the plastic container.

Frame construction

You can start building the frame of the soul.

Floor device

The floor in the shower room should be made of tongue and groove board, which is laid along the short side of the building. With a thickness of 40 mm, the boards can have a span without supports up to 1.5 m, therefore, logs are not needed.

The tongue and groove board is laid along the short side of the shower enclosure

To protect wood from moisture and decay, it is best to use the following method:

The boards are treated twice with a water-polymer emulsion with a time interval between treatments of about 1 hour.
Further, the wood dries during the day. This process can be accelerated by laying the material in the sun. Then, if the weather is warm (in the shade +22 ° C or more), it will be ready by the evening (when processing is done in the morning).
The next step is impregnation with an antiseptic. It is desirable that it be warm outside, and the boards warm up well in the sun before processing. Please note that some formulations are designed for pressure treatment - read the instructions carefully.
After 4 hours, acrylic varnish is applied in two layers. The second layer - after drying the first (usually dries during the day). When the second layer dries, you can start laying the boards.

In the same way, the frame and outer skin can be processed if they are wooden. Only instead of varnish, heated bituminous mastic should be applied in 2-3 layers.

Pallet installation

The drain can be arranged using a linear drain installed along the wall, but it would be more rational to install a shower tray in the washing compartment. Recommended Specs:

Type: choose a model that installs in a cutout in the floor, not on legs (low tray).
Size: the most popular - 100x100 cm.
Material: enameled steel (acrylic in the countryside wears out quickly due to the large amount of sand).

You can purchase a pallet with a side length equal to the width of the shower - then it can be supported directly on the bottom trim.

You can install a ready-made tray in the shower

Work order:

If you want to have a lattice without fail wooden, for example, from bars with a section of 30x30 mm, the wood should be processed in the same way as the floor boards. It is advisable, if the costs are not frightening, to use the same composition for repairing bathtubs instead of acrylic varnish - the coating will be more resistant to abrasion by the soles.

The grate is treated in the same way as the floor boards before use.

When entering a low pallet, unlike a high one, the user takes a normal step, as a result of which there is a high probability of slipping. Therefore, it is desirable to lay the same grate in the pallet.

Frame sheathing

Now you can sheathe the walls, install the roof and the door. The sheathing is made double: from the inside, for example, plastic panels are installed, then foam plastic is glued to them and the entire building is sheathed from the outside. The most attractive in the role of outer skin looks professional flooring. Vinyl siding or plastic lining will be more affordable.

An opening window must be provided in the upper part of one of the cabin walls.

An opening window should be provided in the upper part of the wall for ventilation and natural light.

The roof of the shower room is made single-pitched with a slight slope. You can use the same corrugated board, hemming it from below with foam and plastic panels.

You can separate the washing and changing rooms with a curtain. It is desirable that it be waterproof, otherwise, being indoors, the material will dry for a long time and will soon soak. For this reason, a tarp will not work - it is better to use ordinary polyethylene.

Tank installation

A country shower tank can be purchased at the store. In this case, it will only need to be installed on the roof and connected to electricity (if there is a heating element), water supply and a watering can. If you intend to make a tank yourself, consider the following requirements:

It is imperative to provide for the presence of sanitary drainage - a tube with a stopcock through which absolutely all the water can be drained (the source is located at the lowest point and flush with the bottom).
But the pipe for supplying water to the shower head cannot be placed at the very bottom, otherwise sediment will pour on the user's head.
If you plan to connect the tank to the water supply by installing a float valve, then you need to add an overflow with a flow area twice the size of the valve. The tank lid must be at a sufficient distance from the float so that it is guaranteed to be able to rise and completely shut off the tap.

The float must be able to completely shut off the tap

If the user assumes to pour water into the tank manually, the design will be somewhat different.

The manual filling tank differs in the height of the water inlet pipe

As you can see, the pipe for supplying water to the watering can is located at the bottom, since the water level is constantly decreasing during the adoption of the procedure.

Most often, a steel barrel laid horizontally serves as a blank for a homemade tank. Due to the cylindrical surface, the sediment is completely removed from it. At the top, you need to cut out a wide inspection hatch, which will make it possible not only to fill the tank and monitor its condition, but also cover it from the inside with an acrylic composition for repairing bathtubs or enamel for yachts.

You can also use a plastic barrel. Since it is impossible to weld the pipes to it, in this capacity, threaded fittings with a flange are installed on the gaskets, fixed from the outside with a nut and washer. Fortunately, the wide neck, which is equipped with plastic barrels, allows you to do this. It is important that the diameter of the washer and flange is at least 3 times the outer diameter of the fitting (usually products with M12 - M16 threads are used), but at the same time it is not less than 40 mm. Otherwise, the fitting may warp due to temperature deformations.

It is better to install the barrel horizontally

A watering can and water supply are connected (if provided). In this case, the connection can be made not with pipes, but with a reinforced garden hose on clamps - it will be easier and cheaper. A shower head should be chosen special - with a valve.

If a heating element is installed in the tank, heating the water is not a problem. In this case, you will also have to heat the shower inside before visiting with electricity, for example, with a fan heater. However, due to the high cost of electricity, this method of heating water does not suit everyone. In addition, it will not be possible to equip a home-made tank with a heating element in accordance with all the rules, since emergency automation is required (protection against overheating of the heating element with a large amount of sediment and boiling water).

As an alternative, the following solution can be proposed: the tank is connected using the supply and return pipelines to the hot water unit, through which the water will circulate, gradually heating up. Circulation will be provided by a circulation pump similar to those used in heating systems. With a large diameter of pipes in the mains and the heat exchanger, the installation of a pump is not necessary - the water will circulate due to convection. In this case, the heat exchanger must be positioned so that its “hot” side is higher than the “cold” side. In this case, the heated water should be able to immediately rush up.

The role of a water heating unit can be:

Solar collector. A simple option can be made independently by placing a battery of black-painted steel, copper or aluminum pipes in a glass-covered box. A factory-made collector will require purchase costs, but its efficiency due to the use of modern technologies is much higher: some modern models are capable of heating water up to +70 ° C in cloudy conditions and 20-degree frost.
Solar collector - an economical and environmentally friendly way to heat water using natural energy
Solar oven. It is a system of reflectors that focus sunlight from a large area on the coil. Reflectors should be precisely foiled, since an ordinary mirror reflects well only the visible range, and absorbs IR rays.
The solar oven can be made independently according to the pattern
Cooking oven. Quite often, such a structure is erected in country houses in order to cook food. It is possible to embed a hot water register connected to the tank in it.
Gas stove. If a stove connected to a gas cylinder is used instead of a stove, then a hot water circuit made of a copper tube with a diameter of 6–10 mm can be laid in the form of loops around the burners. Now the heat that previously simply escaped during cooking will be absorbed by the water in the shower tank.

If there is a water heating unit for heating the washing room, it is necessary to install any thin-walled heating radiator in it and draw a “return” through it.

On this, the process of building an all-weather shower can be considered completed.

Video: building a wooden shower in a summer cottage

Operation features

In rural areas, a wide variety of pathogenic microorganisms always enter the water tank. In order not to turn the shower into a breeding ground for infection, it is highly advisable to regularly empty the container through the sanitary drainage, draining all the accumulated sediment along with water. If, however, a break of a week or more is expected in the use of the shower, this procedure must be performed without fail.

A simple factory-made shower cabin costs about 10 thousand rubles. For the same money, or even less, you can build a warm and durable country shower with a dressing room. As you can see, the game is worth the candle, so you can, armed with our advice, get down to business.