Do-it-yourself bathhouse in the country: project, materials and guidance on how to build a bathhouse. Budget bath: how to get significant savings without loss of comfort Easy bath

Almost every land owner, sooner or later, thinks about building a bath. After all, the bath is not just a room for washing, but also an important element of a summer vacation. The turnkey bath construction can be ordered from professionals for a tidy sum, or try to build a bath with your own hands.

After reading this article, you will be able to choose a project, find out the sequence of the construction process, get acquainted with the boiler models and find the best option for your bathhouse.

Before proceeding with the construction, it is necessary to develop a bath design. For this, it is not necessary to contact the architect, you can develop a simple project yourself, especially since now there are many computer programs for design.
  Consider which bath size is best for your family. What premises will be located inside the bath. What materials to make the foundation, walls and roof, do not forget also about the decoration of the bath. An important point in the design is the placement of the boiler and the method of its combustion.
  Below you can find popular bath projects:

    • The design of the bath is 4x4 meters in size.

    • The design of the bath is 4x6 meters.

    • The design of the bath is 5x6 meters.

    • The design of the bath is 6x3 meters.

  • The design of the bath is 3x3 meters.

After you have decided on the dimensions and materials for the bath, you need to make an estimate of the costs.

Foundation

For the construction of the bath, several types of foundation are used. Depending on the weight of the walls and soil characteristics, foundations of the following types are made:

  • The foundation of the plates.
  • Column foundation for light walls.
  • Pile foundation.
  • Concrete strip foundation.

As practice has shown, the most reliable foundation for almost all types of soil is a concrete strip foundation reinforced with reinforcement.

To make a tape reinforced foundation for the bath you will need:

  • Cement.
  • Sand.
  • Gravel.
  • Fittings.
  • Formwork.
  • Ruberoid.
  • Wire.
  • Shovels.
  • Concrete mixer.
  • Harness.
  • Stakes.
  • Tools (pliers, hammer, tape measure and others).


In the place chosen for the construction of the bath, mark the trenches for the future foundation. For marking, use a harness stretched between the pegs. The width of the trenches is based on the weight of the material for the walls. For a one-story bathhouse made of wood or brick, it is enough to make a trench 30-40 centimeters wide. After setting up the markup, do the following:

  1. Guided by the markings, dig a trench with a depth of 50-80 centimeters.
  2. Tamp the bottom of the trench and fill it with water to shrink the soil.
  3. Cover the bottom of the trenches with waterproofing.
  4. Fill the trench with gravel to a third of its depth.
  5. Install the formwork along the edges of the trench.
  6. Make a reinforcing foundation frame, from reinforcement rods connected by a wire.
  7. Install the reinforcement cage into the formwork.
  8. Using a concrete mixer, make the cement mortar in proportion: one part cement to one part sand and two parts gravel.
  9. Pour cement into the formwork, taking care not to allow air voids.
  10. After the concrete has dried, remove the formwork.


  The foundation for the bath is ready!

Walls

For the construction of walls using the following materials:

  • Wooden beam.
  • Logs.
  • Boards.
  • Brick.
  • Blocks from various building mixtures (cinder block, aerated concrete, wood concrete, and so on).

Since the construction of a log sauna or brick is already quite widely described on the Internet, let's consider the option of building a frame sauna from a timber of 15x15 and 5x10 centimeters and boards with a section of 2x15 centimeters:

    1. Make the lower harness, for this, take the bars with a cross section of 15x15 cm. And install them on the foundation, connecting together with special metal plates and corners. There is another way to connect the bars, by sawing at their ends of spikes, grooves and subsequent fastening with screws or nails. When making the harness, do not forget to put waterproofing under the bars.
    2. Install vertical posts from a 5x10 cm timber. The distance between the posts is usually 50-60 centimeters. First of all, determine the position of the window and doorways and install the racks framing them.
    3. In the process, fasten the already installed racks with temporary bars so that they do not warp.
    4. Make the upper harness, securing it to the ends of the uprights.
    5. Making the final fastening of the upper harness, carefully monitor the position of the vertical racks, checking their evenness level.
    6. Be sure to strengthen all the corner joints with diagonal uprights, this will help to avoid skewing the frame.
    7. Make a lathing of a ceiling.
    8. After making the frame, make the outer skin of the walls of the bath with a board with a section of 2x15 centimeters. If you do not want the appearance of cracks between the boards, then make the lining - “overlap”, laying the bottom edge of the board on the nailed board. In appearance, this method resembles siding the walls.

  1. Having sheathed the bathhouse from the outside, proceed to the installation of insulation. Sheets of foam or mineral wool are installed along the vertical racks of the frame.
  2. On top of the insulation, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier layer that is attached to the uprights using thin rails.
  3. After installing the vapor barrier, make the inner lining of the bath lining or slats.
  4. Insulate the ceiling by laying vapor barrier sheets on the inner lining, then the insulation. Sheathe the ceiling from the outside with sheets of plywood.

Please note that the manufacture and insulation of the ceiling can also be done after the installation of the roof.

Roof

The roof for the bath is of three types:

  • Single-handed.
  • Gable.
  • Complex - consisting of four or more slopes.

Usually the first two options are used for a bath. Let's consider the option of a gable roof covered with a metal tile:


  The manufacture of the roof begins with the installation - Mauerlat. In cases of frame walls, the upper stroke performs the role of Mauerlat.

  1. Place the uprights on the bench.
  2. Connect the racks using runs and puffs.
  3. Install the rafter legs, attaching them to the Mauerlat, run and connecting the upper ends together. The distance between the rafters should be 50-60 centimeters.
  4. Install metal tile sheets.
  5. Sheath the gables with wooden slats or sheet metal.

For a more visual familiarization with the roof fastening, the following figure is shown:


  All sizes of roof elements are listed:


  Keep in mind that the less you make the slope of the roof, the more snow will fall on it in winter. Also, a slight slope of the roof can lead to poor drainage and leaks.

Floors

The design of the floor depends on the type of room. The common room has wooden floors. In the washroom and steam room, the floors are made of two levels:

  • The first level is made of concrete, has a bias towards the drain hole.
  • The second level is the final floor of the boards with gaps for draining water.

If you want to make porcelain stoneware or tile flooring, then they simply fit on the first level with a slope to the drain hole.


  In order to make a concrete floor and drain in the bath you need:

  1. In the center of the steam room and wash, install plastic pipes with a diameter of 5-10 centimeters with a bell at the end. Pipes must go through the foundation to the street and connect to the sewage system.
  2. Lay a layer of waterproofing material.
  3. Over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe rooms pour a layer of gravel 10-15 centimeters thick.
  4. Make a cement mortar and fill the floor with a slope to the hole installed on the drain pipe.
  5. Install a grate on the drain hole to prevent debris from entering the sewer.


  At the second stage, wooden floors are made:

  1. Install wooden logs in all rooms of the bath. The distance between the lags do 30-40 centimeters. As a log, you can use bars with a section of 3x5 cm. Or 4x6 cm.
  2. On logs beat boards with a section of 2x15 cm. Or 5x20 cm.
  3. In rooms where water is supposed to be drained, leave 0.5-1 cm gaps between the boards.

Do not forget, before starting the installation of wooden floors, treat all parts with wood impregnation. When making floors, keep in mind that they should be higher, or at the level of the upper edge of the foundation.

Boiler

The model of the boiler for the bath will largely depend on your financial capabilities and the fuel that you will use for heating. If you know how to use welding, then a simple boiler can be made by yourself, from thick sheet iron. If you prefer more advanced coke gas or electricity, then they can be purchased at specialized firms.

The boiler in the steam room is installed in such a way that the combustion chamber is loaded with fuel either from the street or from the rest room (dressing room). The boiler itself, for fire safety purposes, is located 10-15 centimeters from the nearest walls. Walls to the height of the boiler, closed with sheets of iron. A good solution is to overlay the boiler with a brick, there you will reduce the time of its cooling and protect the walls from fire.

When arranging the chimney for the boiler, pay special attention to the place where the pipe contacts the ceiling. The chimney hole should be insulated with a refractory material. Also, pay attention to the place where the chimney pipe exits through the roof. Usually, this place is prone to leakage, so it should be carefully coated. Below are the options for boilers for a bath:

    • Homemade boiler made of metal sheets.

    • A gas boiler.

    • Electric boiler.

  • Solid fuel boiler.

The arrangement of the bath

After the bath is built, it is necessary to equip it:

    • Lead to the bathhouse all communications available on the site - electricity, sewer, water supply.

    • Place inside the sink, shower, light sources, furniture for relaxation.

    • Decorate the walls of the steam room with curly slats and make stepped shelves.

  • Buy wooden tubs, gangs, buckets and brooms.

After the arrangement, you can safely invite guests, take a steam bath in your personal bath!

Instructions for assembling a mini-bath for giving without a foundation, you can also see in the video:

Options for beautiful and unusual baths

In addition to traditional materials and design for the bath, there are many alternative solutions. Below we give photos of the most unusual baths:

  • Mobile bath from the “lining”, built on a car trailer.

  • Bath in a huge wine barrel.

  • Bath made of plastic bottles.

  • Bathhouse dugout, built right in the ground.

  • Bathhouse arranged in an iron container.

  • Forest bath of raw logs.

  • Beautiful sauna from the carriage.

  • Bath from not edged board.

At the end of the article, I would like to remind you that the heating of the bath is associated with fire and high temperatures. Therefore, when building a bathhouse of brick, logs, cinder block or boards, pay great attention to fire safety. This warning also applies to the wiring device, since the rooms inside the bathhouse have high humidity and the risk of a power line shortage due to condensation is very high.


  We hope that reading our article will encourage you to build a bathhouse on your own!

For a Russian person, a bathhouse is not a luxury, but a vital necessity. Even historians are convinced that the love of the bath broom and the good heat is literally in our blood, and even in the poorest villages next to the squinting dilapidated huts, new steam rooms were regularly built every five years (the old ones burned down). And Peter I during a trip to France could not stand it without a couple and two days, urgently ordered to build a Russian bath directly on the banks of a foreign river, which shocked the natives a lot. But what if building is so expensive today, and public steam rooms are not to everyone's liking? And if rest in the steam room is not just useful procedures, but also valuable communication with friends, barbecue and the opportunity to breathe fresh air? Then we will learn the tricky tricks of modern Russian masters who manage to build their doubles literally for their holidays.

So, let's look at the most successful bath construction projects and their implementation, where the main task was to save as much as possible, but at the same time not lose the comfort of bath procedures. After all, as they say, the most budget-friendly bathhouse is the vestibule of a summer commuter train.

What can and cannot be saved during the construction of the bath?

Agree, no savings are worth the loss of health, property or life. But the most sad situations occur when they approach the issue of cheapness thoughtlessly: such baths first slowly poison their owners with the release of hazardous substances, and then either burn or quickly deteriorate. But this does not mean that it is better to give up and give all the money to the conscience of the construction team - it’s better to simply abandon the dangerous use in construction from the very beginning:

  1. Uncertified materials and fakes, for which unscrupulous sellers ask at times less. And at the same time they convince the buyer that “there is no difference with expensive material, there is simply no markup for the brand, my brother / brother-in-law / son-in-law has been using this for half a century, and nothing.”
  2. Materials categorically not intended for the construction and decoration of baths. So, if it is impossible to insulate the walls with foam in the sauna, then it is impossible, and this is not a whim of the manufacturer. Again, a neighbor who at his own risk and risk insulated in this way and now boasts is not an example.
  3. Unsuitable components for conducting electricity in the bathhouse (wires, sockets), unprotected fixtures or cheap Chinese products.
  4. Home-made stoves and water heaters that no one tested for fire safety.
  5. Combustible materials and those in which it is not indicated that they can be used in conditions of high humidity and heat.

If you are building a bath with your own hands and are forced to save on materials as much as possible, calculate your every step well, consult with specialists and do not leave anything without attention “it seems to work”. And finally, save on a limited budget, it’s better on cubic meters of steam room, but not on the materials of its decoration. Such is the advice.

Let's take a little look at affordable heaters. So, basalt cotton wool is made of stone (basalt). Its main advantage is that the fibers inside the insulation are not connected by a chemical method, but by another technology, and therefore, even when placed behind the foil in the steam room, hazardous substances will not be released. This insulation is not combustible and insulates the firebox well. For a bath - the best option. If you want to save money, then put one layer of basalt cotton wool and a couple of layers of another, cheaper material on the ceiling.

Penofol is also used as an economical option - porous propylene with a plastic film and foil spraying. You can purchase it in a roll form, and mount it directly on a bare wall. This material is a good heat bridge between the wall itself and the insulation.

  1. Purchase a stove without an external firebox - so much less firewood will go to the steam room warming up, and such an aggregate is inexpensive.
  2. Be sure to install a water tank - this is the fastest and most economical way.
  3. Make the foundation for the bath cheaper removable: it is much cheaper and easier then to carry out repairs and change to another.
  4. Pay maximum attention to warming the bath - the less you “warm the street”, the more economical the heating itself will be.
  5. Stick a packing film with bubbles on the window in the rest room in winter - this will retain heat for at least 50%.
  6. Instead of an ordinary shower or stall, put a traditional Russian tub. Yes, and healthier, by the way. And it is not at all necessary to fill in it only ice water.
  7. When purchasing a lining, take bars of short sizes - they are cheaper and look by no means worse.
  8. Build the roof of the bathhouse low, not more than the ratio of width and height 1: 3. This design will take much less materials, and the chimney also will not need to be made high.

Project # 1 - a compact bathhouse with a minimum of costs

So, the step-by-step process:

  • Step 1 is the foundation.  We will make the foundation columnar. To do this, you will need to get a 2 meter auger drill. As a casing pipe, take the usual cheap sewer pipes 110 mm. Insert the fittings from two connected rods.
  • Step 2 - strapping.  Lay studs 500 mm long under the harness. Assemble the binding 150x150, and prepare the struts of the frame with a height of 2200 mm. Treat the frame with Neomid 440 or some other suitable for the same purpose.
  • Step 3 - the walls.  Walls can be modified directly on the harness, and just lift them. Sheathed DSP. To do this, pre-drill the plate, and then fasten them with self-tapping screws with a semicircular head.
  • Step 4 - the roof.  We cover the roof with an eight-wave slate. We save after all!
  • Step 5 - insulation.  Now we put any inexpensive insulation that is suitable for the bath. In this project - Linrock Light.
  • Step 6 - Bake.  We put an inexpensive oven, you can make it yourself. But for any necessarily additionally lay out a brick corner.
  • Step 7 - Finish.  We fix the lining, skirting boards, casters.

So the compact and inexpensive steam room is ready.

If the walls, due to economy, are not too strong, then the smaller the bath will be in volume, the better - so its structural properties will be higher.

Project # 2 - arbolit is used

But a good example of building a budget bath from arbolit - the price is not much more expensive than frame technology. So, the external walls of the steam room will be 20 cm thick, inside there is a brick partition from the stove.

Here is the construction process itself:

  • Step 1. We dig out a drain hole 1.2 × 1.8 × 1.4 m in size. On both sides we fill in the OPGS with stones, we make the formwork, fill it.
  • Step 2. Digging a foundation 30 cm wide, up to 50 cm deep. We fill it with sand and a tambour.
  • Step 3. We put the formwork, reinforce two rods on top and bottom. We put the vertical bars through the meter. Fill the foundation.
  • Step 4. We put in the washing and steam room EPS, mesh and pour the floors. In the washing, we additionally organize a drain.
  • Step 5. We put the blocks, check the evenness of the walls with a level.
  • Step 6. We make the roof using 50x100 boards. The optimal distance between the rafters is 55-80 cm. We cover.
  • Step 7. Cook the stove or buy a budget ready. The ventilation scheme is as follows: outside, the air goes to the gap between the stove and the brick wall, where it heats up.
  • Step 8. Install a shower tank in the attic.
  • Step 9. Finish the walls from the inside. If possible, use Izospan FB - a special material for saunas, plus heat-resistant adhesive tape. Isolon is good for a ceiling, which withstands temperatures up to 150 ° C.

Such a budget and quite successful bathhouse turns out.

When choosing wood concrete, pay attention: in terms of density, it can be insulating and structural. The first has a density of 400-500 kg / m, the second - 500-850 kg / m. This material is used for the construction of self-supporting walls and has good heat and sound insulation.

Project # 3 - a miniature bathhouse made of timber in a national style

And if you can’t imagine a Russian steam room from another material, like a beam, you can build such a relatively budget option.

  • Step 1. We level the platform under the foundation from the screenings, put together a “formwork” and leave only an opening for draining water from the washing room.
  • Step 2. We lay out the EPSS, we knit the reinforcing frame. We fill it with concrete, make a slope for water and the foundation is ready.
  • Step 3. We lay down the log house. Under the first crown we put a board treated with an antiseptic, which we close with roofing material on three sides. You can put moss on the board itself - it has antiseptic properties, and therefore the crown of the bath will last even longer.
  • Step 4. We build the walls and leave it for several months for shrinkage.
  • Step 5. We fix the rafters and cover the roof. Through the overlap we make a pipe passage - it is easy to make it from a metal corner and a stainless steel sheet.
  • Step 6. Between the steam room and the dressing room, we make a frame partition, we warm it with mineral wool and sheathe the lining on both sides.
  • Step 7. We spread the floor in front of the stove with porcelain. We leave a special hole in the floor - for forced ventilation.
  • Step 8. We remove the pipe from the furnace through the roof. The passage is made from Master Flash rubber, which is resistant to temperature. The joint with the roof is sealed with MS-polymer.
  • Step 9. We fix the shelves in the steam room and conduct electricity.

Remember: the first step to huge savings during the construction of your own bath is to build it yourself!

Project # 4 - steam room on a light frame from improvised means

The bars for the bath frame can even be made from collected firewood, if desired. The main thing is to choose from them without defects and knots, and be sure to treat with an antiseptic.

So, we are building a budget bath from improvised means:

  • Step 1. We make the bars for the frame, process and dry.
  • Step 2. We build a pile-rubble foundation: we tear out the soil with a drill per meter, forget about the thick pine stakes and on top make a backing of concrete and stones. Next, fill the pillars already to the top.
  • Step 4. We assemble the frame.
  • Step 5. We dig a hole under the drain, insert the barrel with broken brick and rubble inside, we take out the ladder. This is a summer not insulated version, but for the winter you can lay insulation or heating cable.
  • Step 6. and the ceiling, put on top of the insulation film. On the walls and ceiling we launch Finnish foil paper for saunas.
  • Step 7. Put the stove. Take with the register since need heating water for washing - in order not to purchase a separate boiler. So, it has established itself well - inexpensive and warms well.

Such a bath surprisingly lasts a long time, steam pleases and spending time in it is a pleasure. And you can always find cons.

Mini baths: cheap and cheerful

But if you don’t have enough money to build a steam room, you should not despair - today there are lots of options to build a steam room literally from nothing. Let's take a closer look.

Barrel bath

This is the most common, only more solid sizes. Part of it is blocked by a wooden lattice screen, behind which a furnace is hidden. In front of the screen is a small bench. Even three people can bathe at the same time in such a bath. But this option is only summer: they rolled out to the site, put it horizontally, threw firewood into the stove and you can pour water on the stones. But as a low-budget option - very much nothing.

Camping bath

Such a bath is taken mainly on a hike, but in the absence of another alternative, it can also be used on the site. It will cost inexpensively, because it is an ordinary tent in which they put a stove or electric. This is not the same soft Russian bath, but as a temporary phenomenon, it also has a right to exist.

Built-in mini-sauna

There was also a fashion to do, in the bathroom. So, we transfer the washing machine to the kitchen, and in its place we build something similar to a cupboard. This is a small structure, about 1.5 m high, made of frame and upholstered with lining. Inside there is one shelf for a seat and an integrated steam generator. A man sits down, closes the door, turns on the device. But his head remains outside - for safety's sake. Using special aromatic oils and other SPA elements is a good way to improve your health. It can be said that this is the smallest and cheapest bathhouse in the world.

Baths in the car

If you have the opportunity to get a non-working minibus or a car with a body, you can build a small bathhouse right in them. Our site even has detailed workshops on how to do this, and such an undertaking will turn out to be much more profitable than starting the construction of a steam room by pouring the foundation. Experiment!

Sometimes one wants to leave the hustle and bustle of the city, and go to the country. Silence, walking, doing things you love - what could be better! If comfort is provided in the country, I want to come again and again. One of the comfortable living conditions in the country is a bathhouse.

Construction can, of course, be entrusted to professional builders. However, it is quite possible to build and equip a bathhouse in a summer cottage independently. This eliminates the additional costs and allows you to finish and improve in full accordance with your desires and preferences. Therefore, this task is not easy, but the beginner builder is quite capable of it. Own built bath will please the owners even more. So, how do you build a bath yourself?

Firstly, as with any construction, you must first determine the project and the materials from which the bath will be built. The choice of basic material for construction depends on the geographical location and operating conditions, as well as on one’s own capabilities.

Baths come from brick, aerated concrete and other stone materials, some prefer frame baths, however, many novice builders prefer to build a bath from a tree. This lightweight and durable material does not require a serious and expensive foundation, but it has excellent characteristics. With proper care, the operation of the bath will not cause much trouble.

And of course, preference should be given to timber - a bath from this material will retain all the advantages of a wooden structure and save from problems and additional costs that may arise when building walls from logs. Building walls from a beam is similar to working with a designer - it can have different geometric sizes and cross-sections (rectangle, square, semicircular), and also, in the case of a profiled beam, there are grooves for fastening. Building from timber is easy and convenient - what could be better for a novice builder!

How to choose a place to build a bath.

One of the most important points is the choice of the location of the future building. The location should satisfy both existing law and usability. When choosing, the main recommendations can help:

  • if there is a pond nearby - do not place the bathhouse too close to it, since the construction will be in danger of flooding;
  • it is necessary to decide how the bathhouse will be located relative to the house: as a separate building or will be attached to it, since each option has its positive and negative sides;
  • it is believed that it is better to build a bathhouse in the backyard, in relative solitude;
  • it is necessary to provide for mandatory ventilation during construction, as well as provide for the disposal of wastewater;
  • it is highly discouraged to determine the location next to a passing road;
  • when placing the building, it is necessary to take into account the cardinal directions and wind direction: the best place is the southern part of the site, protected from the wind so that it does not interfere with the vacationers, it is better to have windows facing the west;
  • it is desirable that the bathhouse is located at some distance from other buildings, and if it is an extension to the house, it is imperative that the rules of fire safety be observed during construction, as is the case with the construction of a separate building;
  • when determining the location of the bathhouse and its size, it is necessary to observe the distances established by the rules from the boundaries of the site so that the neighbors do not feel any discomfort and make claims to the owner;
  • it is recommended to observe the distance to the water intake (well or well) - not more than 20 meters.

At the beginning of construction, it is highly desirable to make a project, which should, inter alia, determine the optimal area of \u200b\u200bconstruction.


  It is believed that the estimated area for 1 person should be approximately 5 sq.m. Thus, if the estimated number of visitors to the bath will be 4 people, its total area should not be less than 20 sq.m.

The minimum composition of the premises is as follows: steam room, washing, relaxation room and dressing room. It is important to determine the most convenient location of these rooms relative to each other, as well as their geometric dimensions.

First, you need to perform several diagrams and drawings:

- general plan of the structure;
  - drawings of each room separately;
  - foundation device diagram;
  - scheme of the roof;
  - plan for fastening and laying out the bar;
  - plan for the installation of the floor and ceiling of the bath;
  - The installation diagram of the furnace, taking into account its structural features.

All the necessary drawings can be done independently, as well as found in a variety of open sources. As a rule, saunas made of timber have similar designs and you can easily choose the most suitable. If you want and have the necessary budget, you can order a design to a professional architect or builder.

The choice of building materials.

The following is a list of materials that will be needed to build a bath from a bar:

a) a beam of 150x150 mm, although it is possible to use a beam with a section of 100 mm or 200 mm;


  b) floorboard (edged board 150x50 mm 4 meters long is perfect);


  c) boards made of hardwood for ceiling installation (lining is usually used with a width of 100 mm and a thickness of 20 mm or more);


  d) material for wall decoration (as a rule, the same lining is used);


  e) material for vapor barrier (an excellent option would be to use a vapor barrier film);


  e) waterproofing (it is advisable to use penofol, although a plastic film is suitable);


  g) ceiling insulation (a good option is mineral wool materials);


h) sheet asbestos for insulation of wooden structures from temperature effects, including for walls near the stove and elements located next to the chimney;


  i) cement, sand and crushed stone for the installation of the foundation (recommendation - cement should be purchased before construction);


  j) roofing material for the roof, which can be selected based on personal preferences, and most importantly, that it fits seamlessly into the surrounding roofs of other buildings;




k) insulation for interventional space (it is better to use jute, although moss or tow will work fine).

The best time to start construction is spring, because after the completion of the main construction work it is necessary that the timber is dry and shrink. This requires at least 6 months.

DIY bath - step by step instructions.

Step I - preparing the territory for construction.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to clean the site - remove shrubs, stumps, remove garbage and all that will interfere with the work on the foundation.



Step II - building the foundation.

It is best to build a beam bath on a column foundation, which is inexpensive and excellent for the construction of small wooden and frame buildings.

When constructing it, you must first dig a calculated number of pits for mounting supports. Their number is calculated as follows - the supports must be installed in the corners of the building and at the intersection of the walls, as well as with a certain step along their perimeter.

The step is selected, taking into account the type of soil and the estimated total weight of the structure. The depth of the pits should be 1-1.5 meters, although depending on the depth of freezing of the soil in a given area, it can vary. To perform this type of foundation, in addition to the materials listed above, asbestos-cement pipes and fittings will be required.


  At the bottom of the pit, it is necessary to fill in a mixture of sand and gravel 10-15 cm thick. Then install an asbestos-cement pipe of the required length into it, strictly vertically, and fix it. Inside the pipe, several bars of reinforcement should be placed.

After that, pour concrete solution into the pipe and into the free space between the walls of the pit and the pipe.


After pouring the solution, you need to wait a few days, after which put a half-brick thick wall between the posts.

Step III - the construction of walls and the arrangement of the roof.

A traditional material for the erection of the walls of the bath is a beam measuring 150x150 mm. Before laying the first crown, it is mandatory to put waterproofing on the foundation. The lower part of the crown must be treated with an antiseptic. Most often, the timber is laid out in a “paw” way.


The first crown must be carefully aligned in geometric parameters - all angles should be exactly 90 degrees. After the first crown is erected, begin laying the bars for a set of walls. Laying out the walls, it is necessary to make openings for future doors and windows and it is imperative to insulate each row with the selected heat-insulating material.

To connect the crowns, pins are used - metal or wooden pins.

After the walls are withdrawn, the roof device is installed. Depending on the chosen shape of the roof, it is necessary to fix the rafters, which are attached to the upper crown with brackets.

When a single-pitched sloping roof is installed, the rafters are fixed either with two external, or one external and one internal supports. When erecting a gable roof, the rafters from the bottom must be reliably supported on the wall, and connected together from above to form a roofing ridge.



On the fixed rafters, lathing boards are attached, then hydro- and vapor barrier, insulation are laid on them.

The roof device completes the installation of the selected roofing material.

Step IV - Interior Finishing Work.

The interior decoration must begin with the communications device - sewage, water supply, electricity. About sewage should be worried even in the design and construction of the foundation.

It is necessary to dig a drainage well next to the future bathhouse, which includes a sewer pipe buried in the ground with a slope to remove drains from the washing compartment.

After completing the installation of the sewer, a finishing floor is made, which is made of wood or concrete. The concrete floor is more durable, most often it is tiled with tiles or porcelain.

If a wooden floor is selected for interior decoration, it is usually leaking. To do this, the floor boards are beaten to the installed lags with a small gap, or a small drain hole, closed by a grate, is arranged in the floor.

In this case, the floor must be done with a slight bias towards the drain. Then the water entering the drain will be discharged through the sewer into the drainage well.

After the sewage system, it is necessary to carry out insulation, hydro- and vapor barrier of the walls and ceiling using appropriate materials, to conduct electricity and water supply.

After installing windows and doors, then finish finishing the room with, for example, lining.

After finishing, you need to install the necessary electrical appliances.

Step V - Install the oven and shelves.

There are a lot of options for placing shelves, you just need to comply with the recommended sizes and that they must be made of hardwood. The installation principle is simple - a stable frame is mounted, usually from a beam, and boards are attached to it.

The furnace must be installed in full compliance with fire safety requirements. Wooden structures must be isolated from the effects of high temperatures of the working furnace and chimney. If the furnace is heavy, it must be installed on a specially equipped foundation. This is determined in each case, depending on the selected furnace.

The stove is selected depending on the preferences of the owner. It can be a traditional wood-burning stove, a metal wood or electric stove, sometimes it is advisable to choose a gas stove for a bath.

Step VI - Choosing Accessories

There are many accessories for the bath.

The main ones are:

- brooms (oak, birch and others);
  - containers (buckets, basins);
  - wooden bucket for adding water;
  - wooden lattices on the floor and much more.

The interior decoration of the premises, which remains at the discretion of the owner, can add an additional personality - here, depending on your desires and financial capabilities, you can give free rein to your imagination.

It must be added that all of the listed accessories can be made independently. A bathhouse is a great place to spend time in a pleasant, friendly company or with your family. It will be much more pleasant to realize that all this is done with your own hands, including useful and necessary devices: for example, hangers, lamps or ventilation grilles.

Enjoy Your Bath!

Video about building a bath yourself.

A bathhouse built in Russian traditions is considered an ideal place for cleansing the soul and body. Regularly visiting it, it is possible to maintain health, maintain youth and receive true pleasure. It is not surprising that many decide to build a Russian-style bathhouse with their own hands.

Features of the Russian bath

The Russian bathhouse, which was built by our ancestors, includes two sections: a dressing room and a steam room. The largest size of this room is 2.3x4 m, the smallest is 5x6 m. Baths with such dimensions are again popular.

1 - dressing room; 2 - steam room and washing; 3 - shelves; 4 - oven

The device of the original Russian bath implies:

  • creation of a shallow columnar foundation on the basis of boulders devoid of a base;
  • assembly of logs from selected wild logs, that is, material that has not been subjected to any processing other than removing bark and drying;
  • construction without the use of nails;
  • a plug of cracks with moss and tow;
  • installation of a ceiling;
  • insulation of floor and ceiling coatings with moss and peat;
  • waterproofing the structure with resin and shoe var;
  • manufacturing a turf or shingle roof;
  • making a brick oven.

Preparation for construction: drawings and dimensions

When designing a bathhouse, one should not forget that several people will use the steam room and washing room at once. Therefore, the area and dimensions of the bath should be determined without serious errors.

The second version of the bath differs in the arrangement of the shower

To make it convenient for each user to be in the bath room, he needs to allocate at least 1, 8 m² in the dressing room and 1, 5 m² in the steam room. The average total useful bath area for a family is 10 m². In this case, most of the space should be in the dressing room, and less - in the steam room and the washing department.

In order to wash in Russian people of any height could, the ceiling should be built at a height of 2, 4 meters.

When determining the height of the ceiling, take into account that the building will soon sit down

At the planning stage of construction, it is necessary to reflect in the drawing a zone for arranging the vestibule. This room may be needed as a place to block the path of cold air from the street.

For the vestibule, 2.32 square meters is enough. m

Adherents of traditions are advised to build a bathhouse of quality coniferous wood. This material is not fragile, and most importantly - it serves for a long time. And the needles are notable for their environmental friendliness and low thermal conductivity, that is, they do not release heat and, at the same time, interfere with air exchange. A unique property of this tree is resistance to various manifestations of the climate.

Such a wooden building should stand on a solid foundation.

For construction, you can take one of two types of coniferous wood:

  1. round logs;
  2. solid bars.

Experienced builders advise building a bath from the bars, since this material is cheaper, and it is much easier to build walls from it. In addition, the timber structure perfectly does without a bulky foundation.

The timber structure looks simple, but it is easy to assemble

If you opt for logs that are logged in, you can be severely disappointed: the log structure settles for a long time, which is why it will not be possible to put it into operation earlier than a year and a half after construction. Unlike a log bath, a timber structure can be safely used six months after the completion of construction work.

When buying beams, you should use a tape measure to check the material for compliance with the specified dimensions, and then make sure the quality of the building materials is good. To do this, do the following:


List of materials and tools

To build a Russian bath, you need to stock up not only on the uneven bars and bricks, but also:


For the implementation of construction tasks should arm themselves:


DIY step-by-step construction

Construction takes place in stages:

  1. along the perimeter of the future structure and under its supporting internal walls create pits for the formation of a strip foundation;
  2. sand is poured onto the bottom of the trench, the prepared “pillow” is pressed and watered;
  3. pits are filled with reinforcing rods and liquid concrete, the layer of which is smoothed with cement mortar;

    Before pouring concrete, formwork is constructed from the boards

  4. the base for the brick kiln is formed from concrete;
  5. several layers of waterproofing material processed with bitumen mastic are placed on the platform;
  6. a log house is assembled by connecting the bars according to the method of "at the corners in the paw, and the ends in half the tree without residue", laying a heater between them and installing through each row at a distance of 20 cm from the edge of the dowel;

    Corners are connected in 4 steps, and the ends in 3 steps

  7. prepare a platform for the floor, that is, pour a layer of sand of 10 cm, compress it, and then cover 10 cm of a layer of crushed stone;
  8. crushed stone is covered with roofing cloths, the contacting edges of several centimeters;
  9. cement is laid on the roofing material, creating a screed with a slope, thereby equipping the drain of waste water in the direction of the sewer pipe mounted in the ground and leading to a separately dug hole;
  10. lining material is glued onto the hardened cement screed, on top of which a wooden crate is placed;

    Wooden crates on the floor allow you not to touch the cold floor with your feet

  11. on the upper bars of the walls in a horizontal position attach floor beams;
  12. the installed beams are connected with iron brackets with rafters - thick bars;
  13. fasten the rafter legs to each other, using skate bars;
  14. the rafters are covered with a rolled waterproofing cloth and wooden flooring - the basis for the roofing material;
  15. create a ceiling, that is, non-bearing walls every 2, 5 meters lay boards;
  16. a vapor barrier film is laid on top of the ceilings and a thermal insulation material is laid.

Finish

Finishing work is started after the shrinkage of the structure. First of all, all surfaces inside the bath are covered with an antiseptic composition.

Interior decoration involves performing tasks such as:

  1. installation of the crate directly on the walls and ceiling;
  2. laying in the gaps of the crate of insulation and vapor barrier material;
  3. flooring of lining or other facing material.

Lining laid on the ceiling and wall

If only the lining has become the most popular building material for interior decoration of the bathhouse, then many materials are in demand for facing the exterior walls of the building:

  • vinyl or metal siding;
  • plastic lining;
  • block house imitating the appearance of a log house;
  • edged or unedged boards, characterized by a low price.

The material extends the life of the building

Search for stones for the bath room

In the steam room it is customary to use igneous rocks. Formed during volcanic eruptions, they are resistant to extreme heat. The igneous rocks that positively affect the energy forces of man include:

  • polished or chopped jadeite, the main feature of which is beauty;
  • talc chloride, which can absorb moisture and, evaporating it, create the necessary steam in the bath;
  • heat resistant basalt.

In addition to benefits, this stone gives aesthetic pleasure.

Metamorphic rocks, which tend to normalize the composition of the blood and improve well-being, can be laid on the stove. We are talking about such stones as:

  • white quartz, called hot ice and emitting ozone during sharp cooling;
  • raspberry quartzite, the second name of which is royal stone.

Such a stone blends perfectly with brickwork

To create steam in the bath, you can use full-crystalline rocks, for example:

  • blows;
  • serpentinite.

These stones are able to regenerate cells of the nervous system, increase immune forces and have a beneficial effect on the functioning of the thyroid gland.

The length of such a stone is about 20 cm

If you want to move away from tradition, then as a steam generator in a bath it is better to use cast-iron stones - balls made by industry. They instantly heat the room and retain heat for long hours. True, cast-iron stones undergo rusting after a short service life and carry no properties that are useful to humans.

Definitely, stones of sedimentary and siliceous rocks cannot be placed on the stove.  Their structure is porous, which means that when they cool sharply, they become covered with cracks and fly apart in small particles in the area of \u200b\u200bone meter.

Exploitation

The main requirement for using the bath is to create the right temperature. In the steam room, this physical quantity should be within 55–77 degrees.The temperature indicator is selected individually, that is, it depends on the preferences of the owner of the bath. It is customary to heat the washing room to 40 °, and the relaxation room - to 20 °.

In order for the bathhouse to serve for a long time and in good condition, you need to use it according to the rules:

  • put exclusively any dry fuel in the fire chamber, except for firewood from coniferous wood;
  • keep the combustion chamber door closed, thereby avoiding hot sparks;
  • do not allow the chimney to glow until it turns red;
  • not affect hot surfaces, including the walls of the tank for heating water;
  • monitor the cleanliness of the bath rooms;
  • ventilate the bath sector after each furnace for four hours;
  • try not to spray water on the glass surfaces in the room (on windows and doors);
  • clean and inspect the chimney for hole formation at least once a quarter.

The owner of the bath will have to carefully take care of the wooden surfaces. The elements inside the bath made of wood, it is supposed to cover twice a year with special means to protect against fungi and rot. External processing of the wooden walls of the building is recommended to be carried out after two years of operation. To do this, it is better to use antiseptics, which include wax.

Wood deteriorates over time and therefore requires careful maintenance.

In order for the Russian bath stove to give the right amount of heat, you must be able to adjust the traction. To do this, more or less open the door of the chamber for the accumulation of ash. Excessive thrust will cause the furnace to become too hot, and this will approximate the time of equipment failure. If the force that forces the air to enter the furnace is normalized, then the stones in the bath warm up to standard temperature.

During furnace combustion, the operation of the chimney should be monitored. It will be possible to minimize the consumption of firewood, and increase the heat supply efficiency by just not completely covering the chimney gate. But this is allowed to be done only after the absolute closure of the ash chamber.

Video: building a bath from scratch

From the construction of the Russian bath you can get true joy. It is clear that this work is impossible without skills and work, but the result is pride. This feeling is even stronger if the object was built on its own.

Since ancient times, the bathhouse has been a place where you can relax and rest. These ancient buildings in popularity bypass even outdoor recreation.

How to build a bath yourself?

Building a bath with your own hands is difficult and for its implementation you will need a certain amount of knowledge that you will soon learn about.

To build a bath with your own hands you will need to familiarize yourself with the action plan:

  • Design a bathhouse;
  • Understand the stages of construction;
  • Get building material;
  • Connect communications;
  • Equip the bath from the inside.

After familiarizing yourself with the stages of construction, it is necessary to determine the place where the bath will be located, since a lot also depends on the location.

A better option would be if:

  • the bathhouse will be on a hill, this will greatly simplify the installation of a water drain;
  • next to the bath will be a river or a reservoir;
  • the window in the bath will be located opposite the house, which will allow you to observe its firebox.

For a garden house, the distance will be no more than 3 meters, and for buildings such as a bathhouse, this distance should not exceed 1 meter.

Design and drawings of the bath is best ordered from local designers, it will cost about 5000 rubles. You can also search for ready-made sketches and photo baths on the Internet that are most suitable for your preferences.

Brick, stone or block bath

As materials for a brick bath, you can use directly brick, stone or blocks.

To build a bath, it is necessary to dig a pit and fill up with 20 cm of sand, then it must be filled with water to seal.

The second step will be laying crushed stone on top of sand 10 cm thick, which then needs to be covered again with sand.

The last step will be to install a system for the drainage and drainage of the building.

Sauna from a bar

The first layer for the base of the bath will be 20 cm of sand, the second layer is crushed stone, and concrete pouring is laid with the third layer. The key step will be the reinforcement of the building.

Metal layers need to be inserted into the layers for a more solid construction, and as an additional stability in the middle, it is necessary to lay metal plates that are connected by wire.

Note!

The next stage of work is the blind area, which is needed so that the foundation of the bath is not washed with water.

It is best to blind the clay, it is much stronger than concrete, and also does not form cold seams in the process. On top of the blind area it is necessary to pour a layer of rubble.

Next, you need to install a drain in the bath. First you need to dig a hole and bring its gutter to the edge of the foundation of the building, cover the walls of the hole with wooden boards with reinforced wire, and then pour everything with concrete.

Frame bath

The foundation for such a bath structure is made using simplified technology, which is the advantage of a frame bath. It is necessary to make a foundation of asbestos-cement columns, which after installation are poured with concrete mixture.

The next step is marking the walls. Then you need to start connecting the boards using nails. From the boards, the upper and lower harness is assembled. The walls for such a bath are made in a lattice structure.

Note!

The materials that are needed for the walls are bars, heaters, and materials for the outside, such as OSB boards or a block house, and inside you can use the lining.

Materials for insulation and vapor barrier

Insulate the bath outside is only with the condition of heating in the building.

For a wooden bath, it is necessary to make a grate that will be inserted into the insulation. In the work will need mineral wool whose layer width will be 50 mm.

Sex in the bath

In the case of a frame bath, when it remains to insulate the floors, and also to install floor boards, in addition to this, it is necessary to install logs, a rough floor, and fix the structure to remove steam, then lay the insulation and check the waterproofing.

It is best to make the floor of concrete, as this will allow the bath to dry faster, and it will last much longer. Shields made of wood are laid on the concrete floor; they can subsequently be taken out for drying and calmly left about their business.

Note!

DIY bath photo