How to make varnish from plastic. Polymer clay for beginners: basic information and simple techniques

The modern paint and varnish market offers products for any need. This applies to interior decoration, exterior work, repair and restoration of various products and mechanisms, individual decoration of objects and much more. For different types of base materials, varnishes and paints of different compositions, primers and antiseptic impregnations, waxes and adhesive solutions have been developed. Of course, there are special coating materials for varnishing various types of plastic.

Why coat plastic with varnish?

It is assumed that the varnish will protect plastic products from the influence of the external environment. The second point is the decorative component of the coating to give the surfaces a characteristic glossy shine. Again, with the help of a special solution, you can enhance the depth of the color of the base or even completely change the color, creating an unusual optical effect on the surface.

Varnishing extends the service life of polymer products; the durable film prevents the possibility of mechanical damage to the base (scratches, chips, cracks). True, not everyone can use varnishes on plastic. Some solutions do not react with the base materials, but simply spread over the surface. Others don’t dry at all. Still others, after a while, begin to stick, warp, and peel off. This means that you need to choose a special solution for polymer materials. Which?

What kind of varnish is used to coat plastic?

Using varnish as a regular protective coating, you can choose the most common solution for working on plastic, transparent glossy or matte. Please note that some materials can be tinted using pigment additives. Let's look at the compositions of varnishes for coating plastic.

The easiest way to purchase products is in a specialized store that sells plastic products. There will definitely be several names of such coatings in related products. To purchase, you can go to a paint and varnish store. There, with the help of a sales consultant, select the right product.

You should pay attention to the composition of the solution, its properties and purpose. So, mixtures with alcohol or acetone are absolutely not suitable for plastic, since these solvents react with the polymer. This means that you need water-soluble (water-based) varnishes.

Water-based polyurethane (or acrylic polyurethane) varnish without latex additive (latex is not suitable for coating plastic). Based on the degree of dullness, glossy, semi-glossy and matte solutions are distinguished. An important aspect of product characteristics is the presence of a protective filter against ultraviolet radiation. If this is indicated in the composition, then you can safely use the coating (it will not turn yellow over time).

After drying, polyurethane varnish forms a durable protective film on the surface, protecting the product from abrasion and scratches, and becomes inert to the influence of external environments. The painted surface is easy to wash and clean with traditional household detergents without harm or deterioration of the protective properties of the varnish. Exceptional gloss allows you to achieve high-quality decorative coating even after multi-layer processing.

The undoubted advantage of all water-based varnishes is environmental safety due to the absence of organic solvents in the composition. Therefore, such solutions have virtually no toxic odor.

Which degree of matte finish is better to choose - glossy, matte, semi-gloss? Here the decision is made directly by the user. It all depends on the decorative purposes of the coating. Glossy varnish usually creates a shiny film on the surface, sometimes even mirror-like, reflective. Matte is less shiny and is used more to convey the depth of color of the plastic.

During operation, the glossy look is less practical, since mechanical damage is more noticeable on a mirror surface (as well as slight defects in the base surface).

The varnish is usually applied as an aerosol (by spraying). In this case, it turns out to lay the layer more evenly without a trace of strokes.

Typically, a special polyurethane protective varnish for plastic products is used during the production process of the product. Therefore, it is sometimes difficult to find such products in retail sales. But consumer interest, one way or another, influenced the market supply.

Actually, if the instructions for use of a paint and varnish product do not indicate its direct purpose “for work on plastic”, but the composition is urethane (one- or two-component), then feel free to purchase such a product. For example, a protective aerosol for electrical insulation of printed circuit boards, electric motors, transformers, electronic equipment and components. The varnish is easy to use because it is already an aerosol (that is, it has a spray nozzle).

This aerosol has the following properties:

elasticity;
formation of a durable, transparent protective film on the surface;
mold protection;
moisture-repellent ability;
resistance to thermal and mechanical stress;
anti-corrosion properties;
high adhesion;
dielectric properties.

The aerosol is applied to a dry, clean surface. Operating conditions are relative heat and moderate humidity. After the aerosol is applied, you need to wait for complete polymerization. After which it is recommended to polish the surface to obtain a glossy shine.

Where can I find such a unique aerosol varnish? Protective polyurethane varnish coatings for electronics can be found in the same electronics stores. Or at construction markets in the special varnish department. Note that varnish aerosol is produced by several well-known brands, so the search for a product should definitely be crowned with success.

What not to use for plastic work

But the following types of materials called “varnish” are not advisable to use:

any nail polishes (short-lived, sticky after a while);
hair styling aerosol (not waterproof, not antistatic);
universal acrylic varnish mixtures, including artistic ones (they simply do not dry on polymer surfaces).

To enhance the depth of color and a more impressive appearance of a plastic product, it is recommended to apply varnish to the surface in at least two layers. This is especially true for products made of metallized and translucent plastic. In general, the more layers, the better.

Each subsequent treatment should be carried out some time after the previous one. You can learn about interlayer drying intervals from the instructions for use of a specific varnish solution. Polyurethane water-based varnishes “touch-free” dry within 2-3 hours, completely dry in a day to a day and a half. But even after this, it is not recommended to test the coating for strength for at least another week, that is, to wet it.

Small plastic items can be dipped into the solution or painted with a brush. But during drying, hanging droplets may form on the bottom of the product, which must be carefully removed while the substance is still liquid.

Another thing is to use an aerosol. But here too it is important to ensure that the varnish evenly covers the entire surface. Therefore, re-application is recommended to eliminate any possibility of omissions.

Polymer materials themselves are quite durable. But using special protective varnish coatings, you can not only extend the period of use of the product, but also prevent negative influence from the outside. And, of course, to maintain the proper appearance of materials longer.

We post here information about varnishes - known and not, well-proven ones, as well as about unsuccessful purchases, so as not to step on the same rake.
Preferably with photographs, or at least with the exact name, if possible we indicate the place of purchase.

Lucky

To protect polymer plastic products from the external environment, it is advisable to coat them with varnish. In addition, works coated with varnish have an additional depth of color.
Unfortunately, not every varnish can be used for coating; some simply do not dry on plastic; others, although they dry, begin to stick after a while.

What varnishes should not be used?
1. Regular nail polishes - they have a completely different formula and may start to stick after a while.
2. Hairsprays - they are not waterproof, and dust likes to settle on them.
3. Acrylic varnishes for handicrafts and universal ones, which are sold in stationery and handicraft stores - they are the ones that often do not dry on plastic. A typical example is Hobby-Line.

What varnishes are guaranteed to be suitable for polymer plastic?
1. Specialized, from manufacturers of polymer plastics
from the manufacturer Sculpey water-based (glossy on the left, matte on the right)
to photo hosting → to photo hosting →
from the manufacturer Fimo water-based (left) and mineral-based (center and right)

2. Water-based acrylic coating for wooden floors. Often they also write “polyurethane-acrylic” on the cans.
Example - Varathane Crystal Clear Waterborne- water-based coating for floor treatment, transparent, without yellowing, stable, highly durable, non-toxic. It happens - glossy / matte / semi-matte.

If you can't buy Varathane, you can look at any other similar coating for wooden floors in a hardware store. The main thing is to pay attention that the varnish does not contain latex- it is not friendly with polymer clay.

What to do if you bought the “wrong” polish and it started to stick?
You can try baking the product in the oven at a temperature of 110-130 degrees for 10-15 minutes if the varnish was water-based.
If this does not help and the product still sticks, then you need to wipe off the layer of sticky varnish with acetone, wash with soap and water, dry and apply a new layer of “correct” varnish.

Some subtleties
You can often hear that even good varnishes begin to stick, peel off or chip.
What could be the reason?
1. The product was not baked for enough time, the plastic was not completely polymerized and the plasticizer reacted with the varnish. To eliminate this reason, you need to finish baking the product, without even removing the layer of varnish (if it is a water-based varnish).
2. There was too much plasticizer in the plastic and a thin oily film formed on the surface of the product after baking, which prevents strong contact of the plastic surface with the varnish. St. Petersburg plastic has this property to the highest degree. What to do? - before applying varnish, wipe the surface of the product with alcohol or wash with soap and water, and be sure to dry thoroughly before applying varnish. By the way, a fatty film can also appear from frequent contact of the baked product with your hands, especially if you have previously worked with raw plastic.
3. The first coat of varnish was not sufficiently dry before applying the next one. Some polishes appear dry within 10-15 minutes of application; in fact, many polishes take several hours to dry completely.

Here's what else I wrote about varnishes Tin_Liva:

"Key words for suitable plastic varnish:
for wood(internal work) or one-component parquet varnish(with two components you can hang yourself)
1. on one basis
2. polyurethane
3. product type acrylic "

"About plastic varnish. At first, of course, I bought a special water-based varnish for Fimo, produced by Faber, but it greatly disappointed me. The varnish peels off even if you carefully wear the beads, and even if you go into the shower with them.... then I was looking on the Internet for advice on what and how to coat plastic. The West has been involved in plastic for at least twenty years and have had time to practice in this matter. They advise covering the plastic with varnish (not even varnish but a topcoat) for wood, water-based polyurethane. Because other solvents can does not react well chemically with plastic, i.e. acetone, nitro varnish, nail polish are not suitable (except acrylic, but it is terribly expensive)
Everyone recommends Varathane - a water-based polyurethane finish (not varnish, polish or floor wax) that works very well on wood, paper, fabric, etc., including polymer clay! This acrylic product has proven to be compatible with plastic brands including Scalpi, Premo, FIMO, Cernit and others. By the way, you can buy it in Moscow at the Arlum database. Sold in glossy, matte and semi-matte finishes. This is the best varnish. I had to order from America
but in principle you can buy any varnish for wood if it is 1. polyurethane 2. water-based 3. with an ultraviolet ray filter so that it does not turn yellow. There are quite a few of these, but as a rule they are sold in rather large jars; however, we bought Swedish varnish Synteko (parketniy) and chipped in on the jar and then poured it into smaller jars.
The varnish itself looks like water with milk, with a slight smell, but when it dries it becomes transparent. It’s better not to throw the product straight into the water for a couple of weeks, then you can even swim with it in the sea, the varnish won’t come off
Here are links about Varathane in Russian.

Aerosol varnishes are a special type of varnish mixtures that are simple and easy to use. Nevertheless, those who are faced with the need to use such materials for the first time are very surprised to learn about the number of existing options for coloring compositions. Therefore, when purchasing such materials, it is worth familiarizing yourself in detail with what types of varnish in spray cans exist and what their differences are.

Advantages

Aerosol varnishes, regardless of the manufacturer, have a number of advantages.

These formulations do not require dilution or mixing; they are ready for use from the minute they are purchased. To work with spray cans, you will not need to spend extra money on additional tools: brushes or rollers. Spray varnishes are produced in small-volume containers, which makes them a practical and mobile material.
Often, aerosol cans are a type of fast-drying coating product. Their drying time is a few minutes. Thanks to this property, smudges do not form on the treated surface.
Spray varnishes are designed for spraying on various surfaces, such as metal, brick, wood, plastic. They can cover both flat surfaces and hard-to-reach places, all kinds of protrusions and bends, for example, areas of the car that need to be updated, but are very difficult to reach. A striking example is the ceramic two-component varnish “CERAMIC”, which gives the surface a noble shine, protects the painted surface and increases its wear resistance.

Varnish mixtures in cylinders are very easy to use. In order to use them, you do not need specific skills, experience or special working conditions - just read the instructions for use indicated on the cylinder. The consumption of the product will be minimal - this type of application of facing material is considered the most economical. The coating layer will be uniform and homogeneous.
These coatings have a reasonable price, although they are more expensive than conventional paints and varnishes.

Any spray varnish has excellent physical and chemical characteristics, is highly resistant to moisture and various aggressive substances, as well as stable to temperature changes. The surface painted with these means is considered to be completely protected from various types of mechanical and atmospheric influences.

Varieties

There are several types of varnishes. Of these, it is worth highlighting two water-based types: acrylic and polyurethane. The advantage of these sprays is their fire safety. In addition, they dry quickly enough, create a durable coating, and practically do not have a specific pungent chemical odor, unlike paint.

Polyurethane

Polyurethane varnish is a derivative of polyesters and diisocyanates. This coating is resistant to physical influences. It is divided into two types: one-component and two-component (only one-component formulations are used in aerosols). They can be water-based or alcohol-containing.

Advantages of polyurethane varnishes:

due to its composition, they do not form cracks after complete drying;
do not peel off;
create a durable coating;
resistant to aggressive environments and UV rays.

Acrylic

Acrylic varnish is a viscous, water-soluble liquid that is almost odorless. It is made from liquid polymer or so-called acrylic dispersion.

This coating has the following physical and chemical properties:

drying occurs due to the evaporation of water, after which the coating forms a film that can protect it from various mechanical damage;
after drying, the coating is not affected by any kind of liquid;
acrylic film remains transparent and does not turn yellow under the influence of UV rays;
applied to any surface, including brick and concrete;
has high adhesion to well-cleaned surfaces.

Nitrocellulose

Nitrocellulose varnish is a compound of resins, colloxylin based on an organic solvent. It has a pungent odor, and after drying it becomes safe for health. Can be used indoors, provided there is thorough ventilation. The drying period is one hour. The aerosol creates a durable coating with excellent protective characteristics and has excellent decorative qualities.

Based on external characteristics, varnishes can be colored or transparent, matte or glossy. There is also a reflective aerosol that reflects light particles from glossy surfaces. Which product to choose for the job is up to each buyer. It all depends on the location of application, the type of surface to be painted and the expected results.

Application area

Regardless of the manufacturer or the composition of the aerosol varnish, these sprays have a very wide range of applications.

Conventionally, we can distinguish three main areas of use of spray varnish.

Automotive industry. The composition is most often applied to matte paints on plastic and chrome.
At home. The universal composition can be used to coat various pieces of furniture, accessories, fittings, toys, and add shine to various surfaces, thereby creating works of art.
Construction sector. Widely used to cover various surfaces.

Application Features

You can use varnishes in cans without having any experience working with them.

It is enough to follow a few simple recommendations.

Before use, shake the can well for 2-3 minutes. Its internal contents can be sprayed onto the surface if the sound of the ball is clearly heard inside the can.
Before you begin to coat the surface, the varnish should be sprayed in an inconspicuous place for testing. If the surface to be painted has a black outer layer, then there is no need to worry: the appearance of the product after spraying the product will not be affected.
The aerosol should be sprayed onto the surface from a distance of about 30 cm; the can should be held vertically.
Apply the aerosol chemical in an even layer. If necessary, you can apply a second coat of coating, but only after a 10-minute pause.
If a small amount of varnish is needed to cover the surface and the entire contents of the can have not been used, then the remainder can be left for next time. However, the sprayer needs to be cleaned. To do this, you need to turn the can down and spray until the stream disappears.

Before you start painting, you should study the instructions and then strictly adhere to the basic safety rules:

when using organic-based varnishes, ventilation is required;
Do not spray the can near an open fire;
It is necessary to have special clothing, a mask for respiratory protection, safety glasses, and gloves.

baked varnish for PG cernit - reviews
I was unable to obtain information or any reviews about baked varnishes produced by Cernit using simple and familiar queries from search engines, therefore, to replenish the global information base of knowledge of polymer scientists, here is my post-review of baked varnish for polymer clay Cernit from Darwi/
varnish for polymer clay Cernit, reviews of varnish Cernit,

I'll start with the clothes used to greet you. The jar and label are very convenient and well thought out. The jar of varnish is not made of glass, but of thick plastic - there is no need to worry about stupidly losing the varnish due to the fact that the jar fell and broke. The instructions for using the varnish are right there, hidden in a multi-layer label that sticks and comes off perfectly. The instructions in Russian are incredibly pleasing - there is no need to interpret the supplier’s explanations on a non-native sticker or guess whether the seller gave the correct instructions for use.

Consistency of varnish.
My experience with varnishes is Fimo varnish, Sculpey varnish, Vartan varnish, Tikkurilla Kiva varnish, Tikkurilla alkyd-urethane yacht varnish.
I really liked the consistency of Cernit varnish - it is not as liquid as water-based varnishes, not as thick and viscous as parquet and yacht varnishes, it has the same consistency so that it is comfortable to pick it up on a brush without unnecessary, dripping drops of varnish, while self-levels well. To imagine this consistency, imagine a jar of liquid honey on a hot day - it will be very similar.

Application rules.
The manufacturer gives instructions to coat the desired product with matte or glossy varnish in 1 - 3 layers with intermediate drying between layers for 1 hour in air. For quick drying, among other things, but, most importantly, to fix the varnish on the PG, the product varnished with the required number of layers must be baked in an oven preheated to 110 degrees Celsius for 15 minutes. In this case, polymer clay Cernit is baked at 130 degrees.
My experience - I baked several samples according to the instructions, baked several together with products from Cernit at 130 degrees for 40 minutes - increasing the baking time and temperature did not affect the external properties of the varnish.
Durability of the coating.
After drying in the oven, the surface feels the same to the touch as one coated with construction varnishes for wood or yachts - smooth, and when held with a finger and pressed, slip resistance is felt. When you press with force with your thumbnail, a dent appears. which is restored before our eyes without a trace. An attempt to scratch the varnish with moderate force with recently manicured nails did not yield anything - the varnish did not come off like a film, not even a burr remained on the coating. Out of pure pampering, I threw the blank coated with glossy cernit varnish into a glass of tap water overnight, and in the morning, 7 hours later, I took the blank out. After being in the water, the varnish became slightly whitish only in one place where there was a leak of thicker varnish; when I tried to pry and rip off the varnish there, nothing happened; in general, it was not possible to scrape or scratch the varnish on the workpiece with my nails after such a bath. After 5 hours in the air, the workpiece dried, the whitishness disappeared, and the varnish did not lose any properties.
One thin workpiece coated with varnish for experimental purposes was bent and twisted in all planes alternately - the varnish did not crack, it obviously stretched along with the workpiece. One whitish spot appeared on the varnish only in the place where the corner of the workpiece was pressed to its main part by 120-130 degrees.

In general, I don’t know how else in the short term this varnish can be tormented, but all the usual tests for normal loads on the PG and its varnish coating, in my opinion, the varnish passed 5 plus.
________________________________________ __________________________
My reviews are as follows:
- glossy varnish Cernit from Darwi is a pure treasure! When applied in 2 layers it gives a good gloss, when applied in three layers - the gloss and shine can only be compared with alkyd-urethane varnishes for parquet, but, unlike them, the varnish for polymer clay Tsenit does not have a huge disadvantage in the form of yellowness. It dries quickly to touch, but it is better to wait the manufacturer's recommended hour between coats. The consistency is a miracle, the consumption is average. For self-leveling, so that there are no brush marks left, you should not apply very thin layers.
- matte varnish is very good for matte. In fact, the surface coated with 1 layer of matte varnish Appreciates can be compared to a “natural” carefully sanded and polished PG surface. A coating of 2-3 layers enhances the color; a trained eye will see the varnish immediately, but even in bright light there are no glossy highlights, there is just a light satin shine. In my opinion, they can cover almost everything where you don’t want to see a bright gloss.
________________________________________ ____________________________

Photos of test samples (test samples were made several years ago from the same pack of fimo blue metallic, Mikashift technique. Where there are 3 samples in the photo - the bottom one in the middle is not varnished at all):

To summarize: for a year now I have hardly varnished my products, preferring sanding with a micro-mesh, occasionally varnishing something with Vartan. But after testing these varnishes, I had a burning desire to varnish, gloss and matt everything with them that just doesn’t stick, so I think these jars of Cernit polymer clay varnishes will soon run out at this rate)) Today this is the best plastic varnish for me from a special manufacturer of PGs from those that I tried at work.

Update from April 2017: both jars of matte cernit, opened in 2014, in the same bottle as in the photo (I don’t have any others, larger in volume) thickened, when I tried to dilute they became lumps, it was not possible to revive the varnishes. Glossy, opened in the same 2014 and also used from time to time since then - in perfect order. If someone's matte Cernit varnish has thickened and successfully revived it, write me the recipe, I left one jar for experiments.

Note: in general, in my experience, all matte varnishes, from any brand, inevitably thicken over time. The cernit lasted a long time, if I had been sculpting often for the last year and a half, then 100% of it would have run out in such a spill before it thickened :)

We are often asked what varnishes we use to create our works and what recommendations we can give regarding their choice.Today we will share our subjective-objective)) opinion about those varnishes that we have ever used in our creativity.

Kalinkapolinka:

“Do not use regular nail polish or acrylic varnish for creativity, some varnishes can dissolve plastic, even if it seems that it is dry at first, over time it can begin to stick and collect all the dust; there is no way to remove it from the product, which will be irretrievable spoiled. There are special branded varnishes from Fimo and Scalpi. You can use non-special, but experience-tested varnishes for construction work: Tikkurila parquetti-yassya varnish (in a green jar, dries for a couple of hours, shines well, water-based, with a slight odor, brush easy to clean with water), Tikkurila Unika-super (this is a yacht varnish, the coating is simply eternal, there are a couple of disadvantages - it turns light-colored items yellow, takes a long time to dry and has a strong smell), synteco pro 90 (pro 90 gloss, pro 45 semi-gloss, pro- 20 semi-matte, with properties similar to ash, but more stable, gives a more durable coating)."

Tanya Flower

“I use Studio by Sculpey varnishes - Satin Glaze (matte) and Glossy Glaze (glossy). These are special varnishes for polymer clay.
They suit me quite well. I would say 100%) But since these are the only professional varnishes I have used, I cannot objectively compare them with other professional varnishes.

I apply varnish to the product with a regular art brush. Try to avoid bubbles, because they will look ugly on the finished product, unless this is an artistic idea)

Avoid using: nail polish, art varnish.

I apply varnish in 3-4 layers."

Anna Ost.

“A good varnish when working with polymer clay is not an unimportant thing. I won’t repeat myself and say that of course, of course, it’s not in no case use nail polish))) Correctly selected nail polish has the ability to sometimes “pull out” the entire product and present it in the most advantageous form for it. I may repeat myself, but I will only describe those varnishes that I have used myself. “Taste and color,” as they say, so ideally, by trial and error, you will find “your” varnish that will meet your conditions of use. Finding out everything empirically, I came to the conclusion that I am completely satisfied with the result obtained from branded “plastic” varnishes. I'll try to describe my impressions of the varnishes I used. Please note that the varnishes described are glossy. I don’t need matte or semi-matte in my work, so perhaps the review will turn out to be “one-sided”.

FIMO GLOSS VARNISH. Glossy water-based varnish. Despite the assurances of some polymer makers that this varnish is “not very good,” I can’t say anything bad about it. The physical and subsequently aesthetic properties of the varnish satisfy me personally and my products very much. If applied correctly, you will not expect any bubbling or turbidity, and even more so, it is quite difficult to remove it from the product with a film, which I have heard about more than once. Do not shake the varnish before work, dry the product before the second or third coating, do not touch the coating surface with your hands before applying the varnish - these are quite feasible requirements so that this varnish does not disappoint you. If you need a glossy surface, then this is what you need. It is enough to remember that the best is the enemy of the good, so before coating it is better to sand the product, if it allows, without achieving an unbearable shine by applying a large number of layers. You still won’t be able to achieve glass transparency with this particular varnish, due to the properties and composition of the varnish, and the product may well take on a “non-marketable” appearance. Therefore - grinding and high-quality drying!!!

STUDIO BY SCULPEY. Excellent varnish. Although I had the opportunity to work with them very little, I was left with the most pleasant impressions. The trick of the varnish, in my opinion, is that it can be applied BEFORE baking, which I specifically tested. In terms of consistency, it seemed a little thinner than Fimo varnish, so again sanding and sanding again, or many layers of varnish to give it gloss. Unlike FIMO varnish, a large number of layers of STUDIO varnish does not produce unsightly cloudiness.

Again, I’ll make a reservation that I tested these varnishes exclusively on Fimo, Premo and SculpyIII plastic. I can’t say anything about how these varnishes will behave with plastics from other companies.

VARATHANE CRYSTAL CLEAR WATERBONE DIAMOND WOOD FINISH. The one that is glossy. I liked the very last one I purchased extremely, despite the fact that it is not created specifically for polymer clay (yes, that’s right, this varnish with a little effort can be found either in construction stores, or, if you’re lucky, in hobby stores , and not in all)) Observations: it dries very quickly, literally after an hour the product can be coated with the next layer of varnish. According to reviews, it does not turn yellow, which is not unimportant for light-colored products; I personally cannot say anything about this, because I've been using it relatively recently. Shines. Waterproof... Although I don’t recommend taking a shower in a product coated not only with this, but with any other varnish))))

Another piece of advice I read on the Internet and tested in practice. Sometimes it happens that even branded plastic varnishes begin to stick to the product. In most cases, the whole point is that the product is not “baked” enough. The plasticizer reacts and as a result, the beads or bracelet become quite unpleasant to the touch. The matter can be helped. If the product allows it, you can, of course, remove the old varnish and recoat it again. But in beads, for example, this is not always possible due to the large number of parts. And there is no guarantee that after a certain time the varnish will not start to stick again. Therefore, in a fairly simple and easy way, we can bring our work to proper condition. We just need to “rebake” the product by briefly placing it in the oven at a “minimum” temperature, or bake it with the door open, under close supervision. And of course, in this case we are talking only about plastic varnishes."