Correctly lay the subfloor. Do-it-yourself draft floor in a wooden house - instructions

Everyone understands that it is impossible to live indoors without arranging the floor. Whether it's a house or an apartment, you can't do without it. But whether a draft floor is needed in a wooden house, not everyone knows. Why do we need additional expenses for its arrangement? Isn't it possible to get a clean finish? And what is meant by this name? This article is for those who want to figure it out and make a subfloor on their own.

What is a subfloor?

The draft floor is a kind of base for a finishing coating, creating a horizontal flat plane for it. It serves to distribute the load on the floor covering.

The classics of the draft coating is considered to be the device of the subfloor on the logs. This is exactly what is usually done in wooden buildings. For him, logs with a certain distance from each other are laid on the base base. On large areas, a double frame system, the so-called crate, is provided.

In it, between the lags, jumpers from a bar (crossbar) are installed. At the same time, the horizontal alignment of the surface of the logs is constantly monitored. A cranial bar is attached to the lower part of the lag. On it, the laying of a subfloor made of plywood or wood board is carried out. Subsequently, insulation material and waterproofing are laid between the lags.

Insulation and vapor barrier are laid on top of the subfloors. For the manufacture of a rough coating, chipboard or fiberboard or plywood is used.

Stages of subfloor device

And now more about how to make a rough floor with your own hands. There are two options for installing a lag: on the floor or on the base. In any case, before installing the subfloor, it is necessary to take care of the ventilation of the subfloor. For her, it is enough to drill a few round holes in the corners of the house. Subsequently, they are closed with bars. Also, before starting work, the entire underground space is treated with an antiseptic. These measures serve as a guarantee of the strength and durability of a wooden house.

Preparing the lag for construction

In fact, logs are bars from which a frame is made for the future floor. For them, boards made of wood of the second or third grade are used. Since such logs usually have an uneven surface, they must be prepared before use.

To do this, the side on which the finishing floor will be attached must be leveled with an ax. It will not work to make the surface perfectly flat, but it is necessary to level it a little. The horizontality of the finishing coating depends on this. From above, the logs are covered with antiseptics.

Before laying the log, grooves are made in the upper crown of the walls. Planed logs should lie exactly in these grooves, but with a distance from the end to the walls of 2-3 mm. Later, a gasket is installed between them for sound insulation. In addition to the grooves in the beams, for long logs, additional support is installed in the form of brick pillars. The distance between the lags depends on the thickness of the boards used for flooring. The thinner the boards, the more often the lags are located.

Under boards with a thickness of 35 mm, the distance between the lags is at least 50 cm, 35-40 mm - 80 cm, more than 40 - 100 cm

Note! After installing the lag, their ends must be fastened together. This is necessary so that they do not disperse in the process of laying the roughing boards.

The surface of the base before performing work is leveled, covered with crushed stone and compacted. Next, measurements and markings for supports are made. Either a grillage covered with roofing felt, or bars of the lower strapping can act as supports. In the first version, the mark is placed on the roofing material, in the second, on the bars.

The horizontality of the lag is checked not only relative to the ground, but also relative to each other. They must lie on the same level. The maximum allowable deviation per 1 m² is not more than 1 mm

Support pillars are installed on a foundation, the minimum dimensions of which for one element are 40 × 40 cm. Its height must be at least 20 cm, and 5 of them are above the ground. Waterproofing material is placed on the supports under the logs. It will protect the wood from mold. Logs are attached to the posts with the help of corners and self-tapping screws with dowels. The same device has a draft floor in a brick house.

timber fastening

For support under the draft floor on the logs, a bar with a section of 50 × 40 mm or 50 × 50 mm is used. Attach it to the bottom of the lag on both sides. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the size of the future insulation, which will be laid on the rough coating. It is more economical not to purchase ready-made bars, but to buy a 150 × 40 board and dissolve it into three parts. As a result, three bars of 50 × 40 mm will be obtained from one board.

Subfloor laying

Perform a draft floor of plywood or sheets of OSB, chipboard. It is advisable to use boards with tongue-and-groove ends with a thickness of about 20 mm. It is allowed to use sheet materials with a thickness of 12 mm in two layers. To secure them securely around the entire perimeter, a crate is made of additional transverse bars to the lags. Subfloor boards are fixed with self-tapping screws in increments of 90-140 mm. If the floor is made of sheet materials, the joints should fall on the central axis of the additional beams.

Note! Some craftsmen advise using not high-quality material for the subfloor, but a junk board, slab or picket fence. This is due to the fact that the rough coating reacts to changes in humidity and temperature. And such material is capable of deformation.

After completing the installation work, proceed to the laying of thermal insulation material and waterproofing. You should be very careful. Sub-floor boards can break under heavy weights. Therefore, it is advisable to walk along the logs or thick boards thrown over them.

Results and video with an example of work

That's all, the rest is in your hands. Unnecessary, it would seem, waste on such a device of floors will pay off over time. A layer of insulation laid on a rough coating will help save on heating. And you will agree that this is a significant argument in favor of the device of the subfloor. In addition, a high-quality rough floor is a guarantee of the durability of the finish coating.

Building a wooden house is initially a choice in favor of environmentally friendly materials. When building a wooden house, an important issue is the equipment of a warm and even floor, which will contribute to natural air exchange and maintain a favorable microclimate in the premises. How can you make a floor in a wooden house with your own hands, so that it meets all the qualities of a reliable coating and lasts a long time, while maintaining an attractive appearance?

Installation Basics

All possible floor options that are acceptable for a wooden house are divided into two types: plank and concrete. Wooden floors in their structure are similar to a layer cake of several components:

• Draft floor, insulation (thermal insulation, waterproofing);
• Finished floor, directly floor covering.

If necessary, construction between the layers, you must additionally lay all the heating elements and cables.

The floor in a wooden house can be erected on logs or on poles. The latter method is used when the structure is built without a concrete foundation. With a monolithic foundation, everything is much simpler, but if for some reason you don’t have time to pour a concrete base, you will have to use one of the options for laying the floor on beams. Either beams are used that go into the walls (span width 4 m), or beams with supporting pillars that look like a columnar foundation.

Laying on support poles.

What are the floors in a wooden house, you can see in the photo taken during the repair work. According to the type of construction, single-layer and two-layer floors are distinguished. The coating in one layer is installed on logs or without them - this is directly determined by the thickness of the boards and the step between the beams. If the distance between the beams does not exceed 60 cm, then when building a house from the board, you can put it on the beams themselves.

When constructing a two-layer floor, a subfloor is additionally mounted. What it is? The draft floor can be considered the basis for the finishing layer. A heater is laid on the draft layer attached to the underside of the beams. An expanded clay layer 8 cm high is suitable for this role. To completely insulate the floor, a filler is placed in the space between the rough and finishing layers, while a gap of at least 2 cm must be left to ensure air circulation.

Arrangement and insulation of the rough coating of a wooden house.

The floor, concrete or wooden, which is being built in the house with your own hands, needs. Among modern heaters, mineral mats and mineral wool, polyurethane are most often used. The desire to insulate the floor as much as possible must comply with building codes. Do not lay a thick layer of insulation that fills the entire distance between the rough and finish layers. A gap of a couple of centimeters must be required.

Floors in a wooden house should be characterized by high strength, as well as be well ventilated. For this, they make a draft layer. The construction of subfloors in a wooden house is considered a necessity for several reasons. Firstly, they provide a frame of rigidity and serve as the basis for insulation, insulation and flooring of the finishing layer. They also create an air gap, which ensures the preservation of heat inside the building, eliminates the processes of decay of the boards and the distortion of the house. All this ensures the preservation and durability of the entire floor covering.

Rough layer device

The choice of the option of erecting a subfloor with your own hands is determined by the type of foundation formed during the construction of the house itself. The draft layer can be installed both on floors in the form of reinforced concrete slabs or beams, and on the ground. In any scenario, you first need to carry out preparatory work.

An important element of preparation is to make ventilation holes.

The preparatory stage before installing the subfloor includes the installation of ventilation holes in the walls of the building, which are decorated with decorative grilles on the outside. All wooden structures, including the walls of the log house, must be treated with an antiseptic without fail.

The calculation and purchase of materials for the rough layer is carried out on the basis of the existing foundation for its laying. If the floor is laid on the ground, then it is necessary to use a structure that involves a double subfloor flooring. Initially, the logs are installed on supports (bricks can be used), small pieces of the board are laid on them as a shock absorber, and only then the bars and logs are laid. Each stage of work must be accompanied by constant monitoring of the level of the horizon so that the installed floor does not have a slope.

In order for the wooden floor to serve for a long time, it is necessary to treat all the details with an antiseptic.

The materials used for rough floors in a wooden house usually require additional processing. Logs and beams are pre-planed or cut on the machine, removing bevels and slopes. Ideally, they should be absolutely even. Before installation, all parts are treated with antiseptic preparations to prevent the formation of fungus and premature destruction of the tree.

The draft floor in a wooden house is assembled from the following materials:

• Brick - pillars with parameters of 40x40x20 cm are made from it, which are placed on a cement mortar;
• Waterproofing material - for this, dense polyethylene or other similar material is chosen that can prevent the lag from rotting;
• Boards or plywood - are used directly for laying subfloor layers (the first layer can be made from boards, the second from plywood);
• Corners and bolts (metal) - logs are attached to brick pillars on them;
• Insulation - is laid together with another layer of waterproofing on the lower layer of the subfloor.

The amount of all materials is calculated based on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bconstruction and the parameters of the installed lag.

Subfloor installation

How to make a floor in a wooden house yourself? You should start with the installation of the draft part. Logs must be installed if the beams were initially fixed along the walls of the log house, the reason for this is the large distance between the beams themselves. To give the future floor rigidity, brick supports are pre-installed under the logs.

Installation of a log for a subfloor.

Fastening the lag is the most important stage in the construction of the floor. The quality of the future flooring will depend on the quality of the work performed. It is best to attach the logs to the foundation. To do this, first, a strapping of long boards is made around the entire perimeter, and then the logs themselves are attached to it with metal corners or bolts.

At this stage of the installation of draft floors in a wooden house, it is required to retreat 2 cm from each wall. All the cracks formed are laid with a heater. Rigid fastening of the log at this moment is not required, they must be fixed so that there is no displacement during operation.

This method is used when the lag support distance exceeds 10 cm, if this distance is less, then the lags are also installed, but a bar is additionally placed on top, which is fixed in the walls of the house. The places where the beam is connected to the wall of the log house are measured, after which an incision is made in accordance with the dimensions, adding 2 cm to the expansion of the tree from moisture.

When the lags are installed, it is possible to attach cranial bars, which are smaller in size than the lag. The bars are attached to the side at the bottom of the lag. Then boards are placed on them, which are not fixed. Such flooring allows the tree to naturally expand.

Subject to the technology of laying the subfloor, even with the expansion of wooden elements from moisture, the structure will not be damaged.

After laying the first layer of rough floors with their own hands, insulation is laid. First, waterproofing is laid on the entire surface of the floor, which is fixed to the walls. The width of its layer on the wall should be equal to the height of the entire floor structure up to the final finish. It is recommended to fix the waterproofing above this level, and then simply cut off the excess. The joints of the material are fastened with a construction stapler.

Thermal insulation is a must.

All laid layers are covered with a vapor barrier, which is also attached to the walls of the log house. The joints of the material are glued with adhesive tape, and its fastening is carried out with a construction stapler. If the insulation was laid in such a way that there was a ventilation gap, then after the installation of the vapor barrier is completed, you can proceed to the flooring of the second layer of the subfloor. If the insulation was laid at the level of the lag, then first you need to install special slats on the sides - they will press down on the insulation to form the necessary gap. A detailed guide on how to lay the floor in an ordinary wooden house can be found in various video tutorials.

The flooring of the second layer of the subfloor from boards or plywood is done in the same way as the logs were fixed. 2 cm also retreats from the walls, insulation is placed in the resulting gaps.

Finished floor installation

After the draft floor in a wooden house is installed, you can proceed to the arrangement of the finishing layer. For laying a finished floor, it is recommended to use boards made by milling. This floor layer is laid at a height of up to 5 cm from the rough flooring.

For work, boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm and a width of 10-15 cm are taken, made with a groove-thorn connection - such a connection facilitates installation and guarantees the reliability of laying the floor. In the boards on the reverse side, special recesses are initially made - breathing holes, which provide free air exchange under the coating. Other types of boards are also suitable for the finishing floor: tongue-and-groove with a fold or with a trapezoidal or straight segmented spike. It is more difficult to assemble a finishing floor from such boards in a wooden house, because they do not have a breather on the reverse side, and their back parts are not processed, as a result of which they will not fit snugly against the logs.

A floor installed from such material will be less reliable. The most difficult option in terms of labor costs is the installation of a finishing coating from unedged boards. In this case, it is best to spend time processing the front sides of the material.

Finishing floor boards are placed on logs, they must be placed in annual layers in different directions, this will make your floor even, strong and durable. Often, fiberboard sheets are used for the finishing floor. In this case, the space between the walls and the floor will have to be closed with a rail.

The skirting boards are joined at a right angle, then they are cut along the length and corners and connected at an angle of 45 degrees. They are nailed to the walls with nails at a distance of 70 cm, the joints are additionally attached.

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After completing all the work on the installation of the rough and finishing floor, you can gradually engage in finishing. The final finishing of the floor in a wooden house can be done in different ways. For a wooden house, it would be logical to choose a floor covering from the same material. In this case, you have three options for finishing the floor: parquet, parquet or laminate.

Parquet flooring is called not only the most respectable, but also one of the most durable. Parquet elements are attached to the floor base with glue, if necessary, they are additionally fixed with self-tapping screws. After the work on laying the parquet, it is covered with a special varnish; for the greatest protection against abrasion, the varnish can be applied not in one layer, but in several. Competently made laying of parquet guarantees its operation for 20 years.

A parquet board is a kind of parquet, but it is not made from solid wood. This is a special design of their three layers, the top of which is veneer of precious wood, varnished. Such a board is easier to mount, if necessary, it is much easier to carry out and dismantle.

The third option for finishing the floor for a wooden house is a laminate with a wood grain pattern. It is based on a fiberboard panel, protected from below with moisture-proof paper. Above the fiberboard panel there is a decorative paper imitating wood pattern, which is covered with acrylate resin on top. Laminate is the most budget option for finishing the floor of all of the above.

The arrangement of a wooden floor is recognized as the most time-consuming, expensive and complex, since any structure made of wood should be protected from direct contact with concrete. Otherwise, the floors will become unusable in a short time, and they will need to be replaced. Using some impregnation, you can protect the tree from decay. Chemical protection methods are very effective and prevent the process of material deterioration. However, a wooden structure impregnated with chemicals cannot be considered environmentally friendly. Considering that it is because of this indicator that a tree is chosen, few people use chemistry. When laying on concrete, waterproofing is required over the entire area between the layers. Fasten the wooden flooring using metal squares to create a gap between the bases and the joists.

The subfloor denotes certain bases, which by themselves form an ideal surface for laying the final floor. It is created to ensure the distribution of loads directed to the floor covering.

In wooden structures, draft floors are made by three methods:

• wooden on logs;
• pouring concrete;
• use of plywood flooring.

Wooden floors on logs

In a wooden house, the subfloor device does not differ from the installation of similar structures in a monolithic or brick structure. The only feature is how the lags are attached:

1. There is no need to fasten the logs to various wooden boards. The best option is to strengthen them to the basement or grillage of the foundation, retreating a couple of centimeters from all the walls. The distance from the support must be at least 11 cm on all sides of the lag.
2. Before laying the base, lay the strapping from below, which is made of a long and thin board. Logs are attached to it using metal anchors. They do not need to be rigidly strengthened with strapping. It should only be fixed so that they do not stagger while working on another layer of the floor. This design will have a few centimeters indent from the walls.

If the distance is less than 11 cm, then it is better to crash into the walls. But before that, it is necessary to make the initial laying on the base, then you should attach a choice of timber or logs. It is necessary to first measure the contour of the cutting site, then cut in the tree the dimensions necessary for the groove, which will be required for the support function.

Important: it is recommended to add about 2cm to further widen the lag. It must be remembered that the laying of the log and beams is done on the grillage or plinth when the laying of the waterproofing layer is completed.

The standard steps between two lags are 40-60 cm. However, when choosing, great emphasis is placed on the width of the insulation and the required load. Based on this, the choice of the lag section and the acting load is made. With small sizes, the sections should be approximately 15x10, with heavy loads - 15x20, with medium ones - 15x15 centimeters. In case of excessive load action, if the beams have a small section, it is desirable to provide section parameters of 30x40 cm.

Installation of subfloors on logs

When the installation is done, you will need to do the standard installation. It is carried out in several stages:

1. It is necessary to fix the cranial bars. They have small sections (approximately 4 by 4), they are fixed in the lower parts of the log from the side. Professionals recommend replacing the cranial bar with boards that will have more lags in width. They will need to be nailed either along or below the lags.
2. Boards should be laid. They need to be laid on the cranial bar, but not fastened. Considering that their main task is to fix the insulation, they are left to lie freely.
3. Waterproofing. Lay it on the subfloor. This is done to avoid additional load. The waterproofing is laid so that it goes onto the wall at the level where the floor will be in the future. It is recommended to use film insulation, and use a stapler for fastening.
4. Thermal insulation - laid on waterproofing.
5. Vapor barrier. Lay in the same way as waterproofing.
6. Ventilation. To create a ventilation gap, you only need to break through the counter rails along the lag on top of the vapor barrier.
7. Coating. At the final stage, it is proposed to use chipboard sheets, as well as boards. From the wall, the logs must be separated by a gap of 2 cm. They will then be placed heaters.

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer house design services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Video description

Read more about floor insulation in a wooden house - in this video:

Rough plywood floors

The floor in a wooden house is one of the most reliable options, because it has a high hardness. Plywood is also used for flooring. If it is well sanded and varnished, it looks expensive. But in most cases, it is then covered with linoleum or parquet flooring.

Plywood can be laid in one of two options:

1. On a cement base. It will be necessary to provide a horizontal and even base or use leveling stands.
2. Attach to the legs. The main thing is to correctly set the lags to ensure that the joint of the sheet hits them. The joists must be set in such a way that the top surface provides a straight line. They then remove the insulation and sound insulation.

Need to know! When laying plywood in 1 layer, it is necessary that it be at least 15mm thick, if there are 2 layers, the minimum thickness should be at least 9mm.

All debris and dust must be removed from the base prior to final laying. If possible, priming should also be done - primer treatment. Plywood must be fixed with glue, and the head of the self-tapping screw must be drowned.

Concrete floor

Like the draft and finishing floor in a wooden house, the concrete version is less common than the others. The concrete floor has one significant drawback - it is very cold. This problem can be solved with the help of thermal insulation material.

The advantages include durability and reliability. Compared to analogues, it is more even and durable. The concrete floor in a wooden house is also chosen because it is better preserved from destruction.

In a wooden house, a concrete floor is made in 11 stages:

1. Lay on the lags.
2. Lay on the ground.
3. A concrete screed is made on top of the wooden floor.
4. The floor horizon is set with marks (it is recommended to pull the cord for accuracy).
5. Stakes less than 11 cm should be hammered into the ground, so that later gravel can be poured over them. After that, it should be tamped and the pegs removed.
6. Next, the sand is poured.
7. Then a large polyethylene film is laid, creating an overlap on the walls. It will act as waterproofing.
8. Using slats, it is necessary to divide the room into equal strips. The width of each should be about 1 meter. The height of the installed rail must be equated with the height of the cord. The concrete is then poured onto the prepared surface.
9. Concrete is leveled along the rails.
10. Next, the concrete should be covered with a film and left to harden for several weeks. To avoid cracking, it is sometimes necessary to spray the mass with water.
11. After the expiration of the term, it is covered with a screed of cement and sand.

Materials for processing lags

Some environmental factors, such as dampness, should not affect the lags. Therefore, when providing a floor in a wooden house, it is necessary to protect them from certain factors.

Bioprotective compounds

The drug with a bioprotective composition protects the tree from mold, decay, blue discoloration, beetles and fungi. One application of such funds will provide protection for 27-32 years. You can buy them in the form of a concentrate. Sometimes a pigmenting substance is added to the composition, which makes it possible to control the quality of application.

Bioprotective compounds are praised for:

• environmental friendliness;
• slight odor;
• absence of allergens.

It is necessary to apply preparations before the installation of the floor in a wooden house has begun.

Indelible antiseptic

A great option if the city has high humidity. It is also indicated for use in places with high rainfall, temperature fluctuations, in baths and saunas. Working with antiseptics is simple and not too time consuming. Approximate consumption per 1 meter is about 400 grams. Surface application can be achieved after 4 coats. After completion of work, the color of the tree will become pistachio.

Folk methods

Folk remedies for processing lags:

1. Transformer oil. Due to deep penetration into the structure of the tree and embalming, this agent perfectly protects the material.
2. Resin. From bugs, fungi and decay, birch resin will perfectly help. Its only disadvantage is the vulnerability to fire.
3. Motor oil. Pros - low price, good protection. Cons - too strong smell, sometimes interfering for several months.

Before starting work, you should understand the layout of wooden floors, which consist of 4 “layers”:

1. Draft coating.
2. Heat and waterproofing layers.
3. Clean floor.
4. Finishing.

Therefore, when wondering what to make a finishing floor in a wooden house, you must first complete the first 2 stages, which were mentioned above, and start working on the finishing floor.

To make a finishing floor yourself, you need to buy milled boards.

Need to know! The finished floor in a wooden house is laid 5 centimeters above the subfloor.

The floor structure of the first floor in a wooden house is being built in 3 stages:

1. Logs are laid - so that the boards can be laid perpendicular to them. The smallest thickness is 25mm.
2. The board must be fixed closer to the wall.
3. Next, you should use a hammer and a bar so that the boards are as close to each other as possible. With the help of a self-tapping screw, fasteners of each log are carried out through the comb.

Important! If there are plans to change the floor in the future, it is necessary to use a simple mounting option - all floorboards should be fixed from above to the logs using self-tapping screws.

Conclusion

The foundation is poured, the walls are raised, the roof is mounted and windows with doors are installed. You can also start laying the floors in a wooden house with your own hands. The stage of work is not difficult, but requires a careful approach to details.

Proper laying of the floor cake is the key to its long service life. A small mistake with waterproofing is enough and you will have to re-lay the entire coating in a few years. Lack of ventilation of the subfloor will lead to the same result. And without insulation, you will not only have to walk around the house in warm slippers, but also fork out for additional heating costs.

Draft floor - what is it?

It is important to protect a wooden house from moisture - rotting makes building elements unusable very quickly. Therefore, you should not cut logs into the first crown of the log house, even if they are made of larch and treated with an antiseptic - in any case, they will have to be changed sometime. It is optimal to lay the logs on the foundation and fix them after the walls have been raised.

It is also important to ensure good ventilation of the subfloor by organizing air ducts of sufficient size in the basement or foundation. According to the regulations, in a subfield without forced ventilation, the area of ​​​​the vents should correspond to 1:400 of the subfloor area. Otherwise, regardless of the waterproofing measures, the picture under the house will be unpleasant.

When the flooring is ready, you can start warming. But before laying the insulation, it is worth resolving the issue of its protection from moisture - after all, wet mineral wool not only does not retain heat, but also contributes to the formation of fungus and mold on adjacent wood.

Waterproofing and vapor barrier - what's the difference?

Waterproofing protects materials from direct ingress of water, and vapor barrier prevents the penetration of wet fumes. Thus, all waterproofing films are laid on the outside, and vapor barriers on the inside. Everything is clear with the walls. But how and what to put on the floor?

Under the hygroscopic insulation on the rough flooring of the first floor, it is better to lay any vapor-tight films, even simple polyethylene ones. They will protect expanded clay or basalt slabs from fumes rising directly from wet ground. At the same time, expensive membranes that remove moisture to the outside will not be useful here - all evaporation still rises. But, given the ventilated subfloor, they are increasingly returning to the time-tested glassine as a “breathable” material.

But on top of the insulation, it is imperative to lay vapor-permeable films that remove possible moisture. To do this, leave a special ventilation gap (at least 5 cm). If the lag boards are not high enough, a counter-rail is nailed along them, over the membrane, on which the finishing floor is laid.

Underfloor heating - why is it necessary?

Even schoolchildren know the principle of convection - warm air rises. According to this logic, an uninsulated floor cannot release heat from the house in any way. In fact, heat loss in a cold field reaches 20%!

All because of the same convection - the air from the underground rises into the house, cooling it, and the energy resource is also spent on heating the air in an unheated basement or underground.

Each type of insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages:

• perlite, vermiculite, shungizite - analogues of expanded clay, do not absorb moisture, but are more expensive;





• Styrofoam and its derivatives are not exposed to moisture, so they do not need waterproofing, are lightweight and inexpensive, but create a "greenhouse effect" in the house and are not recommended for wooden houses.

Bulk heaters are laid on a solid flooring, slabs and mats can be placed on a sparse subfloor, one has only to properly lay the waterproofing and protect the insulation from rodents.

Finishing floor and its types

Depending on the desired interior design, almost any floor can be laid in a wooden house:

Wooden floors are great for living rooms. The main thing is to put a good waterproofing to protect the insulation. But it is better to lay tiles in the kitchen and in the bathroom - places with high humidity.

In addition, there are variations with the installation of warm wooden floors and even a concrete screed along the logs. So the choice depends only on building skills and design preferences.

Do-it-yourself flooring technology in a wooden house

Underfloor heating is comfortable, economical and extremely functional. Especially when you have to dry winter overalls, jackets and mittens of three children after winter games on the street. And so the entire floor area turns into a capacious battery - it's a sin not to use this!

Concrete screed in a wooden house - reliability and functionality

In a wooden house, a warm floor in a concrete screed is difficult to make, but quite possible:

1. The most important thing when pouring a concrete screed is to correctly calculate the load on the logs in advance. After all, the weight of the finished slab, taking into account the finishing floor, will be about 150 kg / sq.m, and this is without taking into account furniture and residents. The step of the beams when pouring concrete is halved, while the logs themselves are lowered to the height of the screed (if the pouring is done only in the kitchen and bathroom, and not in the whole house).



2. A great way to reduce the weight of the floor is not to lay a subfloor. It is enough to fix the vapor barrier film on the bottom with slats so that the insulation plates do not sag.



3. A dense waterproofing is laid over the log with a mandatory ventilation gap of 5 cm. It is very important to glue all the places of its attachment to the beams with butyl rubber tape - so that there are no holes left through which the screed will wet the insulation.



4. Slate or cement particle board is placed on the waterproofing - they have the best adhesion to concrete. A formwork of the same height as the future screed is installed on top of the level. A reinforcing mesh is laid on the substrates from the same slate. The height of the substrate is about 1 cm.
5. A "snail" of underfloor heating pipes is laid out. It can be attached to the grid with conventional cable ties. It is important not to forget to lay a damper tape between the formwork and reinforcement - to compensate for the expansion of the future floor.



6. To protect yourself, make a trial run of underfloor heating systems with high pressure. If no leaks are found, you can start pouring.



7. After pouring, it is better to vibrate the screed and only then level it with a long rule. It takes 1-2 weeks to water the concrete for it to gain strength. After a month, you can start laying any floor covering.

Wooden floors - simple and beautiful

If the floor joists aren't strong enough to support the weight of the concrete slab, don't fret! After all, you can make a dry warm floor with water heating. To do this, you need boards with grooves for pipes, and foil is used as a heat-reflecting layer. The laminate is on top. The whole process is presented in detail in the video:

When building a new house or arranging an old one, an important part of the repair work is laying the subfloor in accordance with the rules. In the article we will consider the features of folding the base and the use of insulation and insulating materials.

Features of laying the subfloor along the logs

Most builders recommend equipping the subfloor as an additional insulation and a guarantee of strength and reliability. Features of laying are not difficult, and therefore everyone can do all the work on their own. One disadvantage of this floor is poor impact sound insulation, which is indicated by the strong fastening of the elements. Experts do not recommend doing such an arrangement in toilets, saunas, bathrooms or baths, because the high humidity of the room is not suitable for the boards.

The draft floor in a wooden house on logs is a bar that makes up the frame for laying and leveling. In this variation, boards are used that are not planed, of the second and third grade, preferably from coniferous or soft hardwood. In country houses, logs can be used as a log, which equips a more durable and reliable structure. At the beginning of work, all logs must be processed in relation to the alignment of the material. In fact, the part of the beams that will be fastened to the boards must be leveled and hewn, but it is almost impossible to achieve a high level.

The logs are laid in grooves, which are prepared at the beginning of construction, while the distance between the logs and the wall should be approximately 2 to 3 mm. This is due to the method of laying the subfloor in a wooden house, which will not creak during operation. Boards are treated with antiseptic agents or bitumen to avoid the penetration of pests, mold and fungus. The grooves are not the only fastener, and therefore must have other supporting elements, for example, brick pillars.

Log stacking: installation

1. The distance between the lags should be 60 cm, when using boards of greater width or logs of a significant diameter, the distance can increase to 1 meter.

2. After laying the logs, proceed to the next step. We use bars with a section of 50x50, which acts as a support, and fasten them with self-tapping screws on each side of the log.

3. It is recommended that the fastening procedure be carried out carefully, since the structure may be fragile and fall apart during work. To do this, we fasten all fasteners carefully and securely in order to avoid harm to ourselves.

Some homemade builders purchase 15x40 boards, and then divide them into several parts, as 50x40 bars are obtained, which is a good alternative to the previous process.

Fastening the bars and laying the subfloor: features of the work

The feature of attaching the bars to the logs should be calculated for additional space for the use of insulating materials. With an insulation thickness of 10 cm and a board thickness of 2.5 cm, the distance between the bars and logs should be 12.5 cm. Of course, all the data given may be different depending on the material you use.

The device of the subfloor in a wooden house is the next stage of work. There are some points that can complicate the installation process. For example, logs in their structure are an uneven building material with various knots, cavities, so it will be difficult to finish boards of the same size and thickness. In this case, you will have to carefully process each element.

In the presence of bars, the work process is greatly simplified, especially when filing and dividing the material into boards. They are attached to the bars that are attached to the logs from different sides. For fastening, you can use self-tapping screws, as well as nails.

Such a preparatory floor is rather unstable and cannot withstand a person's weight of more than 80 kg. With more weight, the boards can fail, which will have unpleasant consequences for workers. To avoid such incidents, it is recommended to put boards of greater thickness on the logs and then engage in the process of installing a subfloor in a wooden house.

Instructions for the construction of the crate for the insulation tab

After laying the boards, you can start work on floor insulation using different insulating materials. Hardware stores offer a wide range of products with different prices and features. Therefore, it is not difficult to choose a heater, for example, mineral materials are exhibited by manufacturers, as well as fiberglass or basalt, board styrenes and sprayed products.

If necessary, the insulation can be easily adjusted to the size of the repair area using construction knives. Some owners prefer to use environmental materials, which are expanded clay or slag. In wooden houses, warming the subfloor with natural materials will help preserve the ecology of the room and create more comfort.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a crate for insulation:

1. We lay the logs in the grooves prepared for this. All elements must be fastened tightly. Leveling the floor is carried out using a level, which determines the entire plane of the base.

2. We lay the draft material on the logs following the previous recommendations.

3. Since the tree absorbs moisture, the surface must be covered with a special film or rubber.

4. The material is attached with a stapler to the surface. It is important to ensure that the laid raw material is not swollen or has depressions. Thus, waterproofing of the subfloor in a wooden house is carried out, which ensures that excess moisture does not get inside.

5. The next step is stuffing rails with a width of 5 cm, however, this parameter may vary depending on the type of insulation purchased. As in the facade lathing, the slats must be laid in the same direction horizontally or vertically. In a wooden house, such laying is especially important, since a schematic presentation of the boards will save the wood from decay.

6. Insulating materials are placed in the formed spaces. When using expanded clay, it is carefully poured into the openings, and a few centimeters are left from the surface. It is important that the sizes of the granules are different, because this will allow the base to be more compact. Styrenes or rock wool are also laid off to the very top, and this allows some material-free layer to be created, which will serve to ventilate the floor and retain heat.

7. After that, a vapor barrier layer is laid out on top of the bars, which is very important when arranging a warm floor.

In wooden houses, as a rule, a system of water heating of the floor is used, and therefore there is a possibility of creating condensate. To avoid this phenomenon, it is recommended to use a vapor barrier material, it perfectly absorbs all vapors, preventing them from damaging the base.

The last step is laying the finishing floor. For this, tongue-and-groove boards or special plywood are used, which is able to absorb moisture. This material is used for further finishing the floor with linoleum or laminate. All surfaces must be carefully ground with a grinder to avoid unevenness or floor inaccuracies.

Do-it-yourself method of dry screeding the subfloor in a wooden house

If there is a concrete floor in a wooden house, the owners want to convert it to special floors. Of course, there is a conversion method using a dry screed or self-ventilating floor system. The first option is more affordable in construction. To equip the subfloor with your own hands, it is recommended to use the following materials and tools:

• expanded clay;
• polyethylene film;
• plywood GVL or chipboard;
• damper tape;
• PVA glue;
• electric jigsaw;
• self-tapping screws;
• screwdriver;
• marker, ruler and tape measure.

All work is carried out in stages in accordance with the requirements and recommendations below.

1. A polyethylene film is laid on the concrete floor, which is used as a waterproofing. The flooring on the wall should be about 10-15 cm, and between the joints of the material it is worth making an overlay of 20 cm. To ensure the reliability of the fastening of the elements, it is important to seal all the seams with adhesive tape.

2. The next element is gluing the damper tape around the entire perimeter. The height of the tape along the edges should be slightly more than the expanded claydite layer poured out as an insulating material.

3. Experts recommend using beacons when installing subfloors in a wooden house, the video of which can be viewed at the end of this article. They serve as a building level for pouring granules and their even arrangement on the film. With the use of bars, the height can be increased or decreased to create the plane you need.

4. Next, expanded clay is poured out and leveled, focusing on the installed beacons. It is not recommended to pour the insulation over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room at the same time. First, process one part and cover it with a sheet of plywood, and after the second, and so on. Such work is carried out in order to better move around the repair area, while the expanded clay layer must be at least 2 cm, otherwise the plywood will slide underfoot.

Laying materials on expanded clay

The process of laying sheets of plywood or GLV on expanded clay is a rather important stage, because when installed, you will immediately understand how reliably the work has been done. To do this, it is important to walk on them, which is why you will feel the subsidence of the material. For beginners, this situation may be bewildering, but the main check is the strong subsidence of the sheets, which should not be moved in the future.

It is important to remember that floor sheets have a large weight of about 15-17 kg, and the movement of such plates on the expanded clay layer can cause its deformation. You can connect the material using self-tapping screws, but they should be located closer to each other, the approximate distance between them should be 10-12 cm. In order for all parts of the sheets to be securely fastened, it is recommended to glue them using PVA. The application process should occur in waves, and it is important not to exaggerate with the thickness of the layer, because the parts are already connected with self-tapping screws.

As a result, all joints of plywood or GLV sheets must be puttied with special mixtures. After drying, the surface is ground and rubbed so that the entire base is even. To the question: how to make a subfloor in a wooden house using a dry screed in a bathroom or other room where there is high humidity, it is recommended to use waterproofing materials with different solutions with a cement component.

Wet subfloor screed

Screeding is a more popular method than laying on logs, as the materials purchased are not as expensive or readily available. Draft floor in a wooden house, the photo of which shows the sequence of work in this technology.

The step-by-step instruction includes the following steps:

1. The working surface is completely cleared of debris and foreign objects.

2. Insulating materials are being laid, which ensure the penetration of moisture into the premises and contribute to the preservation of heat.

3. With a step of two meters, beacons are attached, which act as a level and have the form of steel rails. Thus, you will ensure the evenness of the base horizontally.

5. The last step is the formation of a coating under the finishing floor using delicate materials. As a rule, mixtures are used that level the base and should have a thickness of 15 mm.

6. After drying, a rare solution is poured onto a cleaned and primed base and leveled with a roller to get rid of all bubbles. The thickness of the subfloor on a wet screed should be up to 3 mm. The drying time of the surface is from several days to two weeks.

The draft floor is an important stage in home improvement, which ensures the preservation of heat in the room in any weather conditions. Do-it-yourself technology is a thorough work process that will require the builder to be attentive and follow the rules and steps of the instructive material.