How to make a ship model out of wood. Sailing ships, model drawings free download
depending on the purpose of the ship model, the model hull can be solid - monolithic, made of wood, bone, plastic, or hollow; in this case, tin, brass, plywood, cardboard, paper are added to the materials listed earlier.
In the manufacture of ship model hulls, a wide variety of designs and technological methods are used. These methods are not similar to each other, but they all have the same goal - to obtain a hull that exactly matches the theoretical drawing of the ship model. Therefore, no matter what method the ship modeler is guided by, whatever material he uses, first of all he needs to have a theoretical drawing and, using the outlines of frames or waterlines, make templates.
MONOLITHIC STRUCTURES
Enclosures made from solid material - be it wood, bone, plastic or any other material - are most often used for desktop, demonstration, historical models.
The construction of the model's body begins with the processing of the boards and gluing them together if the body is wooden. Sometimes a piece of plast, mass or bone of the appropriate size is looked for for the body. The sequence of manufacturing a monolithic body is shown in Figure 94. Having processed a beam in the form of a parallelepiped with an allowance against the largest overall dimensions of the model body, it is necessary to make markings. Starting the markup, the modeler must have in front of him an accurate theoretical drawing of the model. First you need to draw with a thickness gauge or a sharp awl a diametrical line on the deck, in the bow, along the bottom and in the stern. Risks must be deep and precise. Then lines of frames are drawn along the deck and side, the deck is outlined, the stem, stern and side line are applied. Beam marking is a very important moment in the work of a ship modeler, and here you need to remember a good Russian proverb: “measure seven times, and cut once”. A small mistake can lead to damage to the workpiece, all previously completed work will be wasted.
The next step in the manufacture of the hull is filing the timber. First of all, the bow and stern are cut off, then they are filed along the contour of the waterline and part of the deck is removed if the hull is made with a forecastle.
When the hull is roughly processed, they begin to shape it in accordance with the outlines of the frames. Frame templates should be cut out of either plywood or thick cardboard. Rough processing timber can first be made with an ax, then you should use chisels, a finishing planer, a camp file, and a skin. When processing the hull, control your work with frame templates.
HOLLOW STRUCTURES
As experience shows, ship modellers rarely resort to the manufacture of one-piece, monolithic hulls. Even when installing a rubber engine on a model, it is necessary to have free space in the body for the location of hooks, a rubber band, and a propeller shaft. Therefore, modellers build mostly hollow hulls. There are a lot of ways to build buildings, the book describes only the most common ones.
^ Papier-mâché body
Correctly, it is not very easy to correctly build the hull of a ship model. Therefore, the leaders of the circles can at first recommend the construction of cases from papier-mâché to novice modellers. First of all, you need to make a blank. It can be made of wood as described above.
You can apply another method (Fig. 95). According to the theoretical drawing or type of sbszh, it is necessary to cut out the diametral plane and frames from 3-5-1 mm plywood; cut grooves in the frames and the diametral plane. Having assembled this simple design, it is necessary to fill the space between the frames with some plastic material. For this purpose, paraffin is suitable. Having made exactly the size of the assembled plywood frame, a box or cardboard box, lower the frame into it and fill it with molten paraffin. If paraffin cannot be obtained, use plasticine, clay, alabaster. When the material hardens, process the outer surface of the blank. This is not difficult to do, since the frames, which must be cut very precisely, will control the correct shape of the hull. After the blank of the case is ready, they start pasting it with paper. It is best to paste over the case with non-glued newsprint. Paper should not be cut with scissors, it is better to tear it with your hands, in this
In this case, the edge does not have a sharp edge, and when glued, the layers adhere well. Prepared paper is poured for a few minutes warm water. The blank of the model body is smeared with petroleum jelly, oil or some other fat and they begin to paste over with strips of paper. For gluing paper, a paste made from potato flour or dextrin glue is used. The first two layers of paper are laid out without glue, the next - on glue. Pieces of paper need to be superimposed very tightly on top of each other, without gaps, so that the edges of adjacent layers are covered with a new piece of paper. The superimposed layers of paper should form a smooth surface without bulges and depressions. For small cases, 10 layers of paper are enough, this is approximately 1.5-3 mm; for large hulls, the skin thickness should be increased to 4 mm.
Having pasted over the body blank with 3-4 layers, you need to let the paper dry for 10-12 hours, then put another 3-4 layers and dry again.
The body of the papier-mâché model can be made in another way: a blank is made from wood and overall dimensions, with a small allowance, make a box of 5 mm plywood (Fig. 96). Diluted gypsum or alabaster is poured into the box. Then, plentifully lubricating the disc with petroleum jelly or tavo-
Rice. 96. Papier-mâché case (2nd option):
/ - lowering the blank into liquid gypsum or paraffin: 2 - plaster form; 3 - stacking sheets of paper; 4 - finished body in section; 5-plywood frame frame in papier-mâché case.
volume, lower it into gypsum and let the gypsum harden. When the blank is removed from the plaster, a mold is formed. Now it remains to lay out the form with several layers of paper as indicated above. With this method of manufacturing the body, the outer surface adjacent directly to the plaster mold is very smooth.
dugout hull
A blank for the dugout hull of a ship model is made in the same way as in the manufacture of a papier-mâché hull. The finished blank is installed on a workbench and proceed to gouging it
Rice. 97. Production of a dugout hull of a ship model (1st option):
/ - drilling with a brace; 2 - chiseling with a chisel; h - marking for drilling according to theoretical frames; 4 - section along the frame.
(Fig. 97). To facilitate and speed up the work, it is recommended to use a brace with perk and make a series of holes. Using the theoretical drawing, you can limit yourself to drilling only along the frames. Choose a tree from the inside of the case with a chisel and a semicircular chisel.
There is another way to make a dugout hull of a ship model (Fig. 98). The beam from which the body will be made must consist of two halves glued along the diametrical plane, a sheet of paper must be laid between the halves. Marking and initial sawdust]<у корпуса производят обычным способом. Затем нужно разъединить половинки и сделать пропилы ножовкой с внутренней стороны. Лишний материал выбирается с помощью стамески - сначала плоской, а потом полукруглой. Когда половинки корпуса обработаны, их склеивают. Через один шпангоут в корпус нужно врезать бимсы, на них будет крепиться палуба.
The manufacture of hollow foam hulls is not difficult, but rather laborious, the hulls turn out to be heavy, however, the manufacturing accuracy of the mol<ет быть очень высокой. Дерево хорошо поддается обработке и отделке.
Puff cases
Young shipbuilders can also be offered this option for manufacturing the model hull (Fig. 99). Taking a few boards, pre-
Rsh. 99. Production of a puff hull of a ship model:
/ - sawing out the contour of the waterline and the inner part; 2 - sawn waterline; 3 - (;; waterline spacing; 4, 5, 6 - section of the glued blank; T - finished blank.
Rice. 100. Scheme for manufacturing a composite hull of a ship model (1st and 2nd options):
/ - production of the bottom from the board; 2 - fastening of plywood frames and fenders; 3 - section of the composite body; sheathing with thin plywood; 5-installation of bow and stern ends, frame and stringers; 6 ~~ hull sheathing with thin plywood.
they are carefully planed and prepared for gluing. Then, from a theoretical drawing, from 3 to 5 waterlines are transferred to the boards, depending on the thickness of the boards. It is also planned how much wood needs to be removed from the inside. After that, with a circular hacksaw, the inner contour is first cut, and then the outer one along the waterline, with an allowance of 2-3 mm. When all the boards are sawn, they are glued together and compressed with clamps. It is necessary to allow the boards of horopio to dry and only after that proceed with the processing of wood. Processing is carried out with ordinary carpentry tools: chisels, planers, rasps, files, cycles.
Composite enclosures
The base - the lower part of the hull - is made from a board in strict accordance with the theoretical drawing, then frames are cut out of plywood, fenders are placed and “sewn” to them - nailed to glue - thin aviation plywood 0.5-1.0 mm thick. The ends - bow and stern - are made from solid pieces of wood.
This method of building hulls (Fig. 100) has become quite widespread among ship modellers, especially when building models with angular frame contours - high-speed, planing boats and similar types of ships. For full models with a significant cylindrical insert, this method may also be recommended.
Type-setting cases
The most common and rational way of manufacturing hulls for ship models should be considered the type-setting method widely used by ship modellers. Methods for building stacked hulls are shown in Figures 101, 102. The technology for building a hull according to this method is somewhat similar to the existing methods for building real ships. Work begins with sawing out frames and making kolobashkas - the bow and stern ends. Then the kit is installed on a marked bar - a kind of slipway, the place where the hull of the ship model will be assembled. Having installed the ends and frames, you need to connect them with a keel beam - kilson - and side beams - deck stringers. Then they begin to nail pre-prepared slats with a thickness of 3-4 mm. Place pieces of cardboard or plywood under the nail heads. This is necessary so that when pulling out the nails, the body of the model is not damaged. The assembly of all parts is carried out on glue. When the glue dries well and grabs the rails to the frames, the nails are pulled out with pliers. When building type-setting cases, instead of rails, thin aircraft plywood and veneer can be used as sheathing. In this case, it is recommended, in addition to the fender, to install one or two side stringers.
For sheathing, you can use thin cardboard or thick drawing paper. For some hulls of high-speed gliding boats, it is possible to cover the hull with fabric on waterproof glue of the AK-20 type.
The description of how to build hulls for ship models would be incomplete if we did not talk about the manufacture of metal hulls.
Metal cases
Making tin hulls is like building real ships; if we keep in mind that the thickness of the plating on small modern ships is 6-8-10 mm, then on a model reduced by 100 times compared to a real ship, the thickness of the plating should be equal to 0.06-0.1 mm. Such tin is hard to find, so you have to limit yourself to the available tin from cans; it is quite suitable for the manufacture of a metal case. Work should begin with the manufacture of a blank of the model case made of wood according to a theoretical drawing. It is recommended to take hardwood - oak, maple, ash, beech, in extreme cases, birch. On the blank, you need to mark the theoretical frames and cut the grooves, where the frames will then be inserted. The preparation of frames is very simple. On tin, a scriber draws a risk at a distance of 5 mm from the edge of the sheet, then after another 5 mm the next risk, and after 10 mm a new one; on this risk, the sheet is folded and the resulting strip is cut off. Then, holding the ass in a vise at the marked risk, you need to straighten the bent edges of the frame-shelf with a hammer as shown in Figure 103. The frame blank is placed in the slot on the blank, and with the help of a mallet, the frame is shaped into a frame. The frame is fixed with a bracket made of a nail. In order for the frame not to protrude on the blank, it is recommended to make a cutout on it for the thickness of the tin; this will ensure the smoothness of the contours of the body. Having strengthened the frames in this way, it is necessary to prepare patterns of paper sheathing and cut out parts of the sheathing from tin. The length of each tin sheet for sheathing should be such that on the bottom the sheets of the starboard side overlap the sheets of the port side by 1-2 mm, and in height the sheets should reach the edge of the deck. The sheathing sheet must be chipped along the blank, giving it the shape of the model's body in this area, and secured with thin wallpaper studs. After fixing all the sheathing sheets, you can proceed to soldering the sheets, after removing the nails with which the sheathing sheet is attached to the frames. If the junction of two sections is not very accurate, it does not matter: add a little tin and fill in the gap between two adjacent sheets. And if one section overlaps another, trim the section that isn't soldered yet. It is not recommended to solder the bow and stern ends, since in this case it is difficult to remove the hull from the blank. To strengthen the nasal tip, it is advisable to solder the stem - a metal plate 1-1.5 mm thick. Inside the hull, when it is removed from the blank, you need to solder several beams - cross-links of the same profile as the frames. deck sheets
flooring should be joined on beams. At the extremities, deck sheets must have bent edges that go onto the sides from the outside.
The model ship's hull, made of tin, can be very precise in shape, and more than any other, it approximates the hulls of real ships.
Model ship hull testing
When the body of the model is ready, it should be tested for water resistance, draft, stability. For this purpose, a so-called experimental pool is being built. It is best to build a pool from roofing iron (Fig. 104). A box made from it with dimensions of 3,000X700X
Rice. 104. Pool made of roofing iron for testing models.
Rice. 105. Plywood pool for competitions of small model ships.
X 500 mm is enclosed in a machine connected from boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm. The legs must have a cross section of at least 60X60 mm. The height of the pool is approximately 750 mm. Water tightness is ensured by puttying all joints and carefully painting the pool inside and out. A piece of water pipe with a tap is provided for draining water. A rubber hose is attached to the pipe. The pool is filled from the water pipe. Do not forget to put a grid on the outlet to prevent clogging of the drain pipe.
Figure 105 shows the appearance of the pool and its main dimensions. The dimensions of the pool can be changed depending on the size of the room where it will be located, as well as the available sheets of roofing iron. The idea of building a pool from plywood was proposed by Kuibyshev ship modellers *. The simplified pool is a flat tray with a length of about 6 thousand mm, a width of 1 thousand mm and a height of 350 mm. For the manufacture of the pool, 4 sheets of 3 mm plywood and 4 boards with a thickness of 25-30 mm and a length of 6,500 mm are required.
After assembling the pool, carefully putty all the grooves and joints. Outside and inside cover the pool with hot drying oil, let dry, then paint two or three times with oil paint. On the walls of the pool from the inside, make marks every 250 mm, departing from the front wall by 1 thousand mm.
The pool, when filled to a level of 250 mm, holds a little more than a ton of water. The water is drained through a hole with a rubber tube made in the back wall of the pool. When the pool is filled with water, the hole is closed from the inside with a cork.
In such a pool, competitions were held for small models of ships with rubber engines. A temporary pool can be constructed from tarpaulins. A box is made of boards according to the size of a tarpaulin or a machine. The tarpaulin is placed inside the box, the edges are attached with a rail with nails to the walls, after which water is poured. In such a temporary pool, water should not be kept for a long time. Water is released through a rubber tube.
* I. Aristov, Indoor competitions in marine modeling. Military Knowledge Magazine No. 1, 1954, p. 20.
Frigate Scarlet Sails
Step-by-step instruction
manufacturing
CHINESE JUNK
CHINESE JUNK
So we got to the most important part of the site. 
I will give you approximate sizes. 
since I made the ship by eye and did not pay much attention to the size. I didn't write them down exactly, but there are some. I will not torment you with marine terms, because I myself am not strong in them, but I will write in a generally accessible language. Well, you know the basic terms. Such as deck, mast, yardarm, keel. Here we will begin our work from the keel. But first we will do some preparatory work. We take a sheet of veneer and lay it on some kind of plywood or board, and smear it well with glue. We fix with buttons so that the sheet does not curl up when it dries. Getting to the keel, length 45 cm 
the height of the front part is 12 cm, the back is 8 cm. If the dimensions in height are more than anything terrible, you can always cut off the excess. After the keel has been cut out, we will process it with sandpaper a little. We will remove the gloss, and if there is a texture coating, then we will remove it completely. 
Spread glue on one side and leave to dry. You can spread with two, whichever is more convenient for you. While everything is drying, we are marking the edges of the ship. We make one blank template. The width of the rib is 16 cm, the height is 6 cm. The depth of the slot for inserting the keel is 1.5 - 2 cm. The width of the slot is equal to the thickness of the veneered keel. Next, we proceed to the veneer of the keel. Who doesn't know how it's done 
I tell. The veneer is cut into strips slightly larger than the width of the keel. We turn on the iron at full power, but so that the veneer does not burn during veneering. We put the veneer on the keel and smooth it with an iron until it is completely glued. We cut off the excess veneer and clean it with sandpaper stuffed on a bar. 
After the keel has been veneered, we will make the deck and we will make the rest of the ship's ribs. The length of the deck is 45 cm, the width is 16 cm. We measure 15 cm on one side, this will be the beginning of the rounding of the bow. We measure 11 cm from the back, this will also be the beginning of the rounding. The width of the back of the deck is 4.5 cm. Photo 5 shows the deck. Now we begin to trouble with the rest of the ribs. Since our keel is curved on the inside, the height of the ribs will naturally change in relation to the inside of the keel to the deck. I'll try to explain the best way to do it. Myself 
I understood only when I made the fifth ship. And so let's get started. We lay the keel on a piece of fiberboard as shown in photo 1. We mark 8 cm from the front as well as from the back. And we draw stripes on the keel. It should go something like this 
rear side 8 cm, front 5 cm. On the front of the keel we make a step to stop the deck (photo 5). Next, try on the deck, cut off the excess, and turn the keel to the top. We find the lowest point between the keel and the deck and set the first rib. Immediately make marks on the keel and on the deck where you install the ribs. We make the next edge. It will be installed at the beginning of the rounding of the front of the deck. 
The width of the rib is 16 cm. We measure the height from the deck to the keel, taking into account the slot. Example. The width of the rib is 14 cm. The height from the inside of the keel to the deck is 3 cm + the depth of the slot is 2 cm and that is 5 cm. Next, we take the first template blank. We lay on the rectangle of the future edge, combining the upper part and the upper right corner. We outline along the contour. We do the same with the left corner. The workpiece height will change but the main configuration of the rib 
will remain. We also do the back part and one edge between them. After that, we make the ribs of the bow of the model. The approximate distance between the ribs is 3 cm. The same is true from the back. After the ribs are ready and fitted, we glue them, let them fix and glue the deck. 
When all this is done, we make inserts between the ribs around the entire perimeter. Next, we clean everything and make bevels on the ribs from the bow and rear of the ship. After that, we cut off a piece from the veneer sheet according to the size of the central part of the ship, coat it with glue, let it dry a little and glue it with an iron. We proceed to the most time-consuming work, veneer the bottom of the ship with stripes. I have them 
the width is 6 mm. We take the prepared sheet of veneer and cut it. After the strips have been cut, it is necessary to process the edges, clean out the burrs and small irregularities. Glue stripes in the central part 
ship one to one to the bow and to the back of the ship with an overlap. Preliminary prayers with fresh glue of the place of gluing. Here's what we got. Now we will clean everything up and proceed to the manufacture of additional decks. The front part of the deck starts from the beginning of the rounding and protrudes 3 cm. The width of the bow is 9 cm. The width of the part from the rounding is 16.6 cm. After gluing, it will be processed, rounded and will be equal to the width of the main deck. 
The back part also starts from the rounding, it is equal to 16.6 cm, it protrudes by 4 cm. The width of the back part is 9.5 cm. The additional decks are now glued in the current order (you can also glue them with an iron). 
We glue the front of the deck first. Then we fan it. After that, we veneer the main deck before rounding and installing the back of the additional deck. Next, glue the back. It can not be veneered as it is covered with deck superstructures. The decks are glued, rounded off and we proceed to the manufacture of the sides of the rear of the model. We cut off two strips 4 cm wide. You will determine the length yourself. Starting from the point of curvature. The back of the board has a deployed 
angle 105 degrees. After the strips are cut out, we make cuts on them in the place where they will be 
bend along the contour of the deck and smear with glue. The glue has dried, we begin to veneer. We cut two strips of veneer in width and glue them with an iron, while bending them along the contour of the deck. The side boards are done, but since they need to be deployed, we carefully grind them at an angle, trying them on to the deck. Then we glue them. Making the back of the board will not be difficult for you. Next, we move on to 
deck superstructure at the rear of the model. The photo shows how it looks. The superstructure deck configuration must be integral. A little explanation for the photo. Side 
the pads should be 1.5 cm longer towards the back of the model. After we made the deck, we make an insert with windows and other inserts in the openings for the stairs. When we have all the inserts ready and fitted, we glue them to the deck and then glue the deck itself. The deck was glued and after that we veneer it. Next, we make the following sides of the deck superstructure and an insert with windows. The back of the sides will no longer be deployed, but at a right angle. After the last deck was made, glued and veneered, we make 
final boards. With the rear deck superstructure finished, we move on to the bow of the model. We also do the front sides with 
angle of 115 degrees. They also start from the beginning of the additional deck. The boards were installed and glued. We proceed to the manufacture of an insert with windows and an upper platform. Top platform dimensions. Length 15 cm, (excluding the balcony) the width of the front part is 12 cm. It protrudes 6 cm. The back part of the platform is slightly wider than the sides by about 7-8 mm on each side. After we made a platform and an insert with windows, we glue them. Then we veneer the site. Next, we make the sides of the central part of the model. Cut off 2 strips, veneer them on the inside, mark 
cannon ports and cut through them. The port size is 1.5 cm by 1.5 cm. The gap between the ports is also 1.5 cm. The ports are 5-6 mm above the deck level. 
With the sides finished, we proceed to veneer the outer part of the ship. After veneering the ship, we make ladders. With the ladders finished, we move on to the railing. Strip mode 4 mm wide. We veneer them from three sides, glue them 1 mm away from the edge, sawing them down. Next, we mark them out and drill holes for installing pilasters under the railings themselves. After that, we make the railing ourselves. The same strip mode but only the edges are veneered. A little trick. The photo shows that the corner pilasters are slightly higher than the rest. This is to make marking easier. 
They drilled a hole, tried it on a pilaster, marked the rest of the points for the pilasters. Once all railings are in place. Cut off the excess, clean and 
veneer. We do the same in the bow of the ship. Next, we veneere the edges of the sides of the ship and clean the entire ship. We proceed to the marking and installation of masts. The length of the masts is up to you. The diameter of the mast at the bottom is 10-12 mm. At the top 4-5 mm. To be able to drill a hole for installing a flagpole from a toothpick. The ship is completely ready and we proceed to its staining. We fix those parts that you consider necessary. Finished with the stain. We make 2 additional fastenings for ropes (photo 24) and two blocks for raising the sails (photo 25). It remains to varnish the model, make the sails, and then install them. For sails, we need material, a piece of drawing paper for a pattern, wooden round skewers and the nearest workshop for tailoring and repairing clothes. I hope you cope with the manufacture and installation of sails.
Try to make a beautiful wooden sailboat model and join a new hobby!
Making a ship model is a pleasure, relaxation after the bustle of the city, lively and warm wood contributes to calm. Here you will get the satisfaction of acquiring new skills and techniques for making a ship model and great pride in the end result. For sure, beautiful and large models of wooden ships will remain your family heirloom and will go to your grandchildren.
We often get the question: "Where to start, which ship model to choose, which company is better, what tools are needed to make a ship model of different levels of complexity." Of course, it is impossible to answer these questions comprehensively and accurately;
However, partial answers to these questions can be found in articles and reviews:
- Models from the set. A series of articles on construction for beginners.
- HMS Bounty. Mamoli model story about the production of the first model.
And, of course, our Bible:
Even if you have never built a ship model before, you can start this amazing hobby thanks to our suggestions for sailboat models. Each kit contains all the necessary parts, drawings and instructions that have gone through years of research, design and development to become a ship model kit. In addition to the largest and best selection of wooden ship model kits at the lowest prices, we offer everything that will give you pleasure in building a ship model. We offer a wide variety of hand and power tools, thousands of elements to complete the ship model and all the necessary materials to complete the model.
It's not scary, it's much easier than you think!
Do you think that making a ship model is too difficult for you? Let me assure you that many of our respected authors, "tarred aces", began with the same doubts and questions. Start with one of the simple ship models.
Here we have collected wooden ship models that are perfect for the role of the first model:
OCCRE wood ship models: great prices, clear instructions with illustrations. We have made Russian instructions for almost every model of the ship.
General tricks for all materials
What is the color of the sails?
People who have seen sailboats only in the form of souvenirs and pictures will be surprised by the topic of this article. How is that, they say? The sails are white, well, or red, as in "Scarlet Sails" by Alexander Grin. But in fact, almost every nation that built sailing ships had sails that were quite different in color. And because of this, disputes about the “correct” color of sails do not stop among ship modellers.
Manufacture of hulls for sailing ships.
The construction of the hull of a sailing ship differs significantly from the construction of its model. For example, they do not make double (inner and outer) skin on the model, they do not put all the frames, of which there are a lot, they do not suit all decks, etc.
Therefore, there is no need to similarly consider the structure of the hull of a real ship, first of all, you need to dwell on those details of the hull of the ship that the modeler is supposed to do.
Production of rope bays for models.
The sails are controlled by ropes and cables. And the ends of these ropes are gathered into coils so as not to interfere, and hung on dowels.
This article describes one of the methods for making rope coils for hanging model pins.
Theory and practice.
A series of lectures by the recognized master of modeling Boris Volkonsky.
In lectures, the author gives a theoretical base on ship modeling, shares many secrets and best practices in ship modeling, talks about the tools used and offers you much more.
Spars and rigging of a sailing ship.
The article describes in detail the spars and rigging of sailing ships of the 17th-19th centuries. The main proportions of spar trees of battleships are given. It also tells about the device, the order of imposition, places of traction and thicknesses of hemp standing rigging. Carefully considered the purpose and wiring of running rigging.
Sailing equipment of the ship.
The article describes the sailing armament of ships of the 17th-19th centuries. The types of sails, their names, details and methods of fastening to the spars are considered. Ways to control sails are also described. One of the many ways to make sails for models is described.
Calculation of the dimensions of the spars and sails.
The article provides a modern classification of sailing ships, a brief description of the manufacture of general view drawings, spars and sails of sailing ship models, methods for determining the dimensions of the spars of a sailing ship model, determining the area of \u200b\u200bsails, determining the position of masts along the length of the model, and also describes the main details of the spars and fastening of sails .
Making a showcase or How to protect the model from dust.
I once read in a chat room (speaking in Russian, chat) a discussion about protecting models from dust. Judging by the number of participants, this topic excites many. A variety of measures were proposed, from simply using a vacuum cleaner and a brush to placing their creations in plastic bags. I don't think this is efficient. We ourselves, only we ourselves will save our creations from the dust. After all, a showcase is like a frame for a masterpiece, both emphasizing and protecting, and in itself is aesthetically beautiful.
My version of the rope
Being engaged in the construction of models of sailing ships, in the end, any modeller will come to the moment when it becomes necessary to make high-quality rigging. And it doesn't matter what material the model is made of, but high-quality rigging is always made of threads. You can, of course, use online stores to buy ready-made threads, or buy a ready-made cable rope there. But, personally, it was much more pleasant and interesting for me to make it myself.
Block strapping
The other day, a person asked me to tell you how I tie the blocks. I explained it to him in words, but agreed that it would be better to do it in the form of a photo report (master classes are done by masters, but for now I am making modest photo reports). Having made this photo report, I decided to publish it for everyone to see, of course, I will not open America, professionals already know and know everything perfectly well, but it may be useful for beginners to see if someone will take something for themselves, someone something will improve or change. One way or another, I will be glad if my (although, probably, not quite mine, since I also learned everything from someone) method will help someone.
Linking drawings
This article will primarily be of interest to modelers who build their models "from scratch" according to the drawings.
On the Internet you can find many drawings of ships (and not only) designed for building models from scratch. But very often the drawings are either broken into many smaller sheets, or generally collected in non-graphic formats such as DJVU or PDF. How to convert these formats to JPG or PNG I will tell in another article. For normal work with them, of course, you can print each sheet and glue it with pens, but sometimes you need to have a whole drawing in a graphic file format. Here's how to glue the parts into one whole, I'll tell you.
Nodes for modeling
I'm almost sure that many, starting to do modeling, knew a couple of knots and were unaware of the variety of knots that exists. I discovered for myself many nodes for a variety of conditions and applications. That's about the nodes and will be discussed in this article. I will list the nodes that I use or plan to use in the manufacture of models.
feng shui sailboat
This is interesting!
What associations does a ship sailing on a serene sea evoke in you? Most of us will say: romance, freedom, independence, adventure, striving for something new, unknown, waiting for something beautiful.
Feng Shui ship or sailboat - well-being,
floating in your house
This is interesting!
It is not difficult to guess why the ship in Feng Shui theory refers to the symbols of abundance and prosperity. After all, since ancient times, any arrival of a ship at the port was associated with the arrival of goods, luxury goods and overseas curiosities. This is how the ship came to feng shui and got its main purpose - to increase the well-being and material wealth of the family. But, like every feng shui talisman, the ship has its own maritime rules and customs, which must always be followed so that the peaceful “golden sails” do not turn into a pirate ship.
Sailing ships are divided into frigates and battleships. The most powerful three-masted ships are battleships, which are characterized by displacement, armament and crew strength.
This class of sailboats originates from the seventeenth century, with the advent of artillery (cannons) that can conduct a linear battle (simultaneously from all onboard guns from the sideline).
In an abbreviated version, they are called "battleships".
Drawings of models can be downloaded for free, on the website or from other sources.
In May 1715, the Russian cannon battleship 3rd rank Ingermanland (64 guns) was launched from the Admiralty shipyard in St. Petersburg. Peter I himself took part in the development of his drawings. The battleship had impressive dimensions for that time: length - 52m; width - 14m; hold depth - 6m. Peter's golden standard flew up from his mast. This ship was for a long time the flagship of the Russian fleet.
Ship ranks in the sailing fleet:
- The first rank is a three-deck or four-deck, the largest sailing ship (from sixty to one hundred and thirty guns).
- The second rank is three-deck (a ship with three decks) (from forty to ninety-eight guns).
- The third rank is two-deck (from thirty to eighty-four guns).
- The fourth rank is two-decker (from twenty to sixty guns).
L "Artemise
L "Artemis was a cannon frigate of the French fleet. Magicienne frigate class, weight 600 tons, 32 cannons on board, of which 26 were twelve-pound long guns and 6 were six-pound ones. The frigate was laid down in Toulon in December 1791. It had a length of 44 meters 20 centimeters .
Frigates were called military one-deck or two-deck three-masted ships. They differed from battleships in their smaller size. Their purpose is cruising service, reconnaissance (long-range), a surprise attack on an object with the aim of further capture or destruction. The largest models were called linear frigates. According to statistics, more frigate models are downloaded for free than battleships.
