How to install a two-level stretch ceiling. Do-it-yourself two-level stretch ceiling: the problem to be solved Scheme of the structure of a two-level stretch ceiling

One of the types of decorative finishing of the ceiling space is a two-level stretch ceiling. Moreover, such designs are very popular in the implementation of various design projects. A wide selection of textures and colors allows you to use stretch ceilings when decorating a room in almost any style and create a unique interior, filling the room with warmth and comfort.

It is quite possible to install two-level stretch ceiling structures with your own hands, for this you need to choose the right materials and tools, as well as understand what two-level stretch ceilings are, and master a few lessons about the installation rules.

Design features

The two-level stretch ceiling is based on a canvas made of polyvinyl chloride film. To fix it, the frame is pre-assembled, after which the surface is brought to an ideal state, pulling the main canvas. Stretch ceiling construction increases the aesthetic characteristics of the surface, and in some cases visually increases the main parameters of the room. The canvas can have a glossy or matte surface, the choice in this case depends on the height of the ceiling and the final result.


The design of a two-level stretch ceiling is characterized by some features that you should familiarize yourself with before proceeding with the installation of the structure:

  • The place where the stretch ceiling is planned to be installed. This factor should be taken into account for one reason, if the structure is installed in a room with a high level of humidity, then moisture-resistant drywall sheets will be required to create a frame. In rooms with normal humidity, it is quite possible to use ordinary material.
  • Stretch ceiling shape. Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, it is necessary to draw its diagram and calculate the parameters. With all the correspondences between the base ceiling and the future design, you can safely begin installation work.
  • Material for making the frame. You can assemble the base of the tension structure from wooden bars or a metal profile. It should be borne in mind that with the help of a profile for two-level stretch ceilings, you can create structures of almost any shape, due to their property it is easy to bend. Various types of profiles for stretch ceilings make it quite easy to do.

A two-tiered stretch ceiling has the following advantages over other similar structures:

  • Fast assembly and installation.
  • Perfectly flat finished surface.
  • Aesthetically pleasing appearance.
  • Protection of the premises from the ingress of water in case of flooding from neighbors from the upper floor.

However, there is one, but a serious drawback of stretch ceiling structures. In particular, we are talking about the fragility of the canvas. In this case, it is important to remember that the stretched canvas requires careful attitude during installation and operation. In addition, you should know the temperature regime for stretch ceiling structures. As for the high cost of this type of decorative design of the ceiling space, it should be noted that the practicality and durability of the structure can recoup all the costs of installation and purchase of materials.

Types of two-level ceilings

The design of a two-tiered stretch ceiling involves the installation of two steps, each of which can have a different shape. Tiers can be made from any canvas, combine several textures and colors. The first stage in the installation of a two-level structure is to create a frame with a base coating. The main materials for this process are plywood, timber, metal profiles and tires.


All ceiling structures, consisting of several tiers, are divided into several types:

  • An ordinary ceiling is a surface that consists of two tiers of stretch material.
  • Combined ceilings are a plasterboard box and a stretch canvas.
  • In a backlit design, the installation of one stretch canvas or with an addition in the form of a plasterboard insert can be performed.

Before stretching a two-level ceiling, it is recommended to draw a diagram, make accurate measurements and calculate the component elements.

To create a conventional structure, a simple frame is assembled from plywood, wooden blocks or an aluminum profile. For a combined stretch ceiling, a more different base is required, therefore, in such a situation, steel profiles are used.

If we are talking about a backlit ceiling, then for the manufacture of their base it is best to use metal tires and corners. In this case, the calculation of the frame is carried out taking into account the hidden lighting and the corresponding wires. Therefore, it is recommended to entrust the installation of a backlit ceiling to experienced craftsmen who perform all actions in accordance with specific instructions.

Features of the installation process

You can install a multi-level stretch ceiling in a room with your own hands, the main condition is compliance with the requirements and rules. All activities should be carried out in a specific sequence. Moreover, for novice home craftsmen, the first step in installing a two-level stretch ceiling should be drawing up a sketch of the future structure.




In general, work on the assembly and installation of a stretch ceiling involves the following actions:

  • Assembling the frame... At this stage, they determine what shape the structure will be, make rough sketches and fix the main structural elements on the base surface. For the correct superposition of the tiers on top of each other, it is necessary to take accurate measurements and connect the tiers one by one. It should be borne in mind that the multi-level structure must be strong enough, therefore it is best to use an aluminum profile. Such elements are attached using a simple technology, which involves fixing the guides and attaching profiles to them using self-tapping screws.
  • Installation of the upper tier... At this stage, the contours of the structure around the perimeter of the room are marked, due to which the location of the first level becomes visible. For more accurate marking, professional craftsmen recommend using a laser level. Adjusting hangers should be positioned in 50-60 cm increments, while also checking the location using a level. The profiles are installed at a distance of about 30 cm from each other. Plasterboard sheets are applied to the finished structure and fixed with self-tapping screws.
  • Installation of the second level ceiling... The installation of the second tier is carried out taking into account the location of the ceiling of the first level. In the case of rectilinear structures, there are no particular difficulties. As for curvilinear figures, then it is required to fit the profile to the corresponding shape. For this purpose, several cuts are made in the profile and bend it. The fastening of the profile starts from the wall, and the guides are placed in the central part. In this case, the frame is more durable. Completion of the work is the sheathing of the frame with plasterboard sheets and the tension of the main canvas.

To make it easier to work with drywall sheets, strips are first cut out in accordance with the sketch of the future structure, then they are moistened and given the desired shape. Wet drywall bends better, which simplifies the installation process. After drying, the plasterboard strip gains strength and can be fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws. After assembling the structure, it is imperative to seal the joints of the drywall strips. Next, install the lighting system, cover the surface with a layer of primer and apply the finishing material.

Two-level stretch ceiling structures can decorate any interior, but for this you need to understand the question of what a two-level stretch ceiling is, and take a very responsible attitude to the installation process. Particular attention should be paid to the self-installation of individual structural elements. To create an aesthetically attractive stretch ceiling structure that will perfectly fit into the overall design of the room, it is necessary to correctly determine the shape and color of the future stretch ceiling, and select the material depending on the design style.


Masters who are engaged in the installation of stretch ceilings at a professional level are advised to adhere to the following rules:

  • To emphasize the shape of the structure, several shades should be combined.
  • For a combined ceiling, it is recommended to combine canvases with a glossy and matte surface.
  • In addition to the tiers, you can use plasterboard fragments.
  • You should not give up the original patterns, drawings, ornaments and photo printing.
  • A multi-tiered structure should have an unusual shape in the form of a wave, circle, cone or oval.
  • It is recommended to use different inserts and colored lamps to separate the ceilings.

Installation of a stretch ceiling structure is carried out using harpoon or wedge technology. The first option is notable for its simplicity, therefore it is more suitable for novice home craftsmen. For correct installation, it is necessary to correctly measure the ceiling edging and connect all structural elements tightly enough.


To solve the question of how to stretch a two-level stretch ceiling with a large difference in levels, it is recommended to use the wedge method. It assumes uniform heating of the main canvas and its clamping under the baguette in accordance with the markings. Before stretching the web, it is recommended to warm up the air in the working room to 40-45 degrees. In this case, the material becomes softer, which simplifies the process of its installation several times.

For a more even tension, experts use a building hair dryer. With its help, the material is smoothed and becomes perfectly smooth.

Two-level stretch ceilings in the interior

Multi-tiered stretch ceiling structures are suitable for any design, with their help they decorate the ceiling space in rooms of different sizes. When decorating small rooms, it is better to give preference to white, which visually increases the size of the room and makes it more comfortable. To create a romantic atmosphere in the bedroom, you should select light shades, and directly complement the multi-tiered structure on the ceiling with hidden lighting.


A ceiling with a glossy surface can give a small room some feature. However, if a bright light irritates the body, then you can use matte canvases. Also, in small rooms, it is not recommended to use structures of complex shapes, which in turn tend to visually reduce the size of the room.

A two-level stretch ceiling is the best option for decorating the ceiling space in a children's room. A wide variety of colors and the ability to create almost any shape from drywall sheets allow the designer to bring to life the most daring and unusual ideas. As for lighting, the ceiling in a children's room can combine various chandeliers and spotlights. The illumination of each tier individually fills the entire room with light as much as possible and, if necessary, highlights separate zones.


With the help of a two-tiered stretch ceiling, a small-sized apartment can be divided into corresponding zones, where most often the kitchen is combined with the living room. In such situations, the ceiling structure is complemented by the installation of various geometric details or delimits the space through straight lines.

To give such a room a festive look, a two-tiered composition in white is created on the ceiling, which is complemented by lighting in the form of a chandelier and several lamps, including spotlights.


Despite the complexity, it is permissible to do the installation of two-level stretch ceilings with your own hands, following the instructions and after studying the master classes. Correct installation work will allow you to implement bold and bright design ideas within the allocated budget.

Two-level systems differ depending on the design, the type of material used, decor. Structures can be illuminated around the perimeter, with central lighting and spot lighting, combined and LED - and all this must be taken into account when developing a sketch, planning the purchase of components and equipment.

The shape of the products can also be very different:

  • spiral;
  • arched;
  • round;
  • wavy;
  • domed, etc.

It is important that colors, shades, shapes and decor elements are in harmony with each other and correspond to the overall concept of the interior.

  1. In a room decorated in laconic colors, it is worth installing the simplest structure in the same colors with a minimum of decorative elements.
  2. It is possible to order PVC canvases with photo printing for stretch ceilings in spacious rooms with high ceilings and an abundance of windows.
  3. A canvas with a "starry sky" effect is used to create the lower level of the structure.
  4. PVC foil for both tiers is the right and simple solution. It's okay to experiment with colors.
  5. To achieve an interesting combination, they combine a matte strip with a glossy one, and also combine PVC material with a fabric base.
  6. The lower level in most cases plays the role of the main one and has the largest area.
  7. Backlighting between levels will allow you to implement fashionable design solutions without compromising the functionality of the product.

If you plan to install a structure with the participation of craftsmen, you can allow to bring something new to the interior design by using three-dimensional forms, for example, funnels, cones or waves.

Installation options - what are they?

There are several ways to install two-level ceilings. The first option involves fixing the frame on a rough base with a certain configuration and then stretching the film, fabric, or both materials in combination.

The second option simplifies the task of installation: a special baguette is attached to the base of the ceiling, which is later used to fix the stretch fabric.

Simplified installation allows you to save centimeters, and correctly selected colors and texture of products - visually expand the room, hide defects in the base and communication.

Ceiling specifications during installation

You can start installing the structure only after the necessary tools and components are ready, such as a profile for two-level ceilings, for example, made of aluminum or plastic for fixing the film. They carry out the installation of products at the final stage of repair work, observing the following nuances:

  • the profile is mounted on the coating, making sure of its integrity with preliminary cleaning and priming;
  • it is allowed to carry out installation work indoors without removing pieces of furniture from it with a distance from the top of the cabinet to the ceiling against the wall of at least 70 cm;
  • before starting the installation, you should study the wiring and communications diagram;
  • it is possible to complete the installation of a two-level ceiling with special equipment.

An important point is the temperature of the electrical equipment built into the ceiling. Ventilation, lamps, climatic systems should not overheat the surface of the structure.

Instrument preparation - master checklist

Even the simplest design for a two-level stretch ceiling will require the use of a standard set of tools. This is about:

  • hammer drill and screwdriver;
  • heat gun (can be rented);
  • level;
  • stepladder;
  • spatulas and shovels;
  • roulette;
  • fasteners;
  • hammer;
  • nylon thread;
  • chalk;
  • eraser and pencil;
  • graph paper;
  • wooden blocks;
  • sheets of drywall.

With the help of a perforator, the profiles are fixed (a photo of the profile of the separator will help to choose the right products), the gun is used to heat the PVC film before stretching. The most difficult stages of DIY installation are taking measurements, as well as working with a gas cylinder and preparing a ceiling sheet.

Preparatory work - where to start

The quality, practicality and durability of the tensioning structure will depend on the correct measurement procedure at the initial stage. To do this, measure the height of the corners in the room, after which 5 cm recede from the lowest of them, driving a glazing nail into this area. The next step is to measure a uniform distance along the remaining corners according to the same principle.

A nylon thread is pulled through all the corners. This is important in order to align the room around the perimeter. Only after that you can proceed to the calculation of the working perimeter.

Once the perimeter data is calculated, you can proceed to sketching. A regular squared notebook sheet or graph paper will do. According to the sketch, a stretch fabric is ordered from a specialized company, having decided on the color, texture, material. An interesting option is to combine multiple finishes, such as matte and glossy, to create visual differentiation.

The main work should be started only after the ceilings are delivered to the premises. Departing 5-6 cm from the level of the thread, pull the same in a parallel plane. The outline of the second level is marked with chalk on the surface of the ceiling. This will be the markup for the future two-level ceiling.

Wooden bars are screwed along the contour, according to the sketch. In the case of height differences or rounded forms of the structure, a gypsum plasterboard sheet with a high level of flexibility is used.

How to fix the frame - the initial stage of installation

The installation of a frame for a two-level ceiling is performed using special metal profiles by analogy with creating a frame for plasterboard structures. Water or laser levels will help to maintain dimensional accuracy.

A U-shaped profile is attached to the line prepared during the measurement process, using a screwdriver for convenience. Exactly the same profile is fixed on the surface of the ceiling, again, according to the markings. Considering that the shape of the box is not always correct, metal scissors are used if necessary, fixing the profile along a curve after notching small cuts on it.

The drops made from its segments continue to be attached to the fixed profile. It is important to ensure that their bottom edge is flush with the wall profile. Only in this case they form the lower level of the structure.

Using an aluminum profile (two sections) and a U-shaped, they assemble a box, twisting a structure similar to a rectangular pipe. Attach it to fixed drops. All work is performed for speed and convenience with a screwdriver.

The installed box is mounted on a wall, using a bearing profile, observing the compliance of verticals and horizontals without fail. In this way, the entire frame is assembled along the previously indicated perimeter.

The next stage is wiring and finishing

When using an aluminum profile for backlit stretch ceilings, you should remember that it will not save the situation if the lighting equipment overheats the canvas. That is why it is so important to calculate the power of lamps and sconces intended for installation in a structure at the design stage.

Wiring, communications are masked inside the frame before sheathing with plasterboard sheets is carried out. As soon as these works are completed, you can proceed to the preparation of the material for finishing. Plasterboard sheets, previously measured and cut out, are fixed with self-tapping screws on the frame, after which the corners are reinforced with perforated corners, followed by filling.

The putty is used not only for corners, but also for leveling the fixing points of self-tapping screws. After drying, the finished box is sanded with a special float, the fixing points of the lamps are marked, holes are prepared for them with a "crown" attachment. The resulting base is primed, painted, or pasted over with wallpaper. After carrying out all the work, the bottom layer can be considered finished.

Tension web - fastening options

Since we are talking about a structure with 2 levels, the process does not end on the base device. The next step will be the installation of the tension web. At this stage, you will need a perforator, as well as a heat gun with a gas cylinder to warm up the film.

There are several ways to attach the canvas to the surface of the profiles:

  • wedge;
  • shtapikov;
  • harpoon.

The most commonly used is the last, harpoon mounting option. This method involves welding to the edges of the film coating of special hooks - harpoons for the convenience of fastening in a taut form. The convenience of such a ceiling is the possibility of dismantling, if necessary, without unnecessary problems, followed by the same quick and easy installation in place.

To use the harpoon method, you need to pay special attention to the correct cutting of the material. It is necessary that the canvas is 7% less than the ceiling area for finishing.

If the choice fell on the wedge fastening method, then the canvas is cut out with a margin. The excess is cut off after installation. The shtapikovy method is practically similar to the wedge method, except that the film is attached to the surface of the profile with a special tape for guaranteed tension.

How to fix the canvas correctly?

It is possible to fasten the tensioning sheet to a previously prepared plasterboard base or frame after heating it with a special heat gun or, in the absence of it, with a hairdryer. Only an increase in temperature to 60 degrees will make the canvas more elastic and pliable.

It is worth paying attention to the temperature regime in the room where the installation is carried out. It is correct that the temperature is within 40 degrees Celsius.

The canvas begins to be fastened from the corners in opposite sides, continuing to fix in the remaining corners by analogy. For convenience, spatulas are used, cutting off excess film when choosing a wedge or bead fastening technology.

To make the canvas even and smooth after installation, it is reheated with a hairdryer. As soon as the temperature of the film drops along with the normalization of the temperature regime in the room, the surface of the film should become ideal.

To mask technological gaps, a flexible camouflage tape is used. Lamps and lamps are installed in the prepared holes, preventing them from contacting the canvas.

In conclusion, it can be noted that the installation of a two-level stretch ceiling is a difficult operation that requires precise adherence to the algorithm of actions, the presence of certain tools, the presence of an assistant, and what is important - patience and time.

The absence of even one component from the list above will, at best, lead to a violation of the composition and functionality of the ceiling, at worst - to its complete deformation, if not immediately, then over time. That is why it is so important to really assess your own capabilities, to carefully prepare for the installation process, not only practically, but also theoretically, thoroughly studying the process from the inside, reading video tutorials, advice from real people on the repair forums.

If even after the educational program on the topic there remain unresolved questions, doubts and uncertainties, it is worth giving up the idea of ​​making such a ceiling and entrusting the process to specialists. You can make a contribution to the installation at the design stage of the structure, suggesting your own ideas, fantasizing about the decor, the shape of the structure, the placement of light, shades and the general style direction.

The idea of ​​turning the ceiling space into a masterpiece of multi-level design using a stretch film always comes up against the need to build a rather complex frame. Installation of a stretch two-level ceiling requires special care in the performance of work. Any negligence can affect the supporting structure in the most unexpected way. About how correctly the work was done, it often becomes clear only after the completion of the installation work on the two-level decor.

Tension decor in two levels looks much nicer

Construction of a two-level stretch ceiling

The main idea in the construction of the decor is to install several film canvases on the ceiling base, creating the effect of a volumetric structure. It is clear that such an idea can be realized only with the use of a special frame and fasteners.

The essence of the construction is as follows:

  • A two-level ceiling is always built using a central supporting frame, which accounts for the bulk of the load that occurs when installing a stretch fabric;
  • On the main part of the frame, most of the baguettes and profiles are attached, with the help of which the PVC decor is stretched at different levels;
  • With the help of additional overlays, it is possible to mask the lines of the gap and the lines of the joints, to close the bearing profile of the two-level ceiling on the fold lines.

Important! All baguettes and profiles used to install a two-level stretch fabric must be reinforced with embedded strips and slats.

The frame under the film has to be seriously strengthened

The main difficulty in the construction of two-level structures is that the tension fabric stops on the frame with a force of at least 5-7 kg per meter of PVC film. This ensures uniform and high-quality tension of the entire panel. But, on the other hand, it is necessary to install additional ribs and strips that reinforce the frame in order to prevent deformation and displacement of the support frame.

Installation options for two-level stretch ceilings

The number and variety of lines and transitions in the design of the ceiling decor, consisting of several levels of decorative film, is limited only by the imagination of the customer and the capabilities of the masters.

If the task is to build two-level stretch ceilings with your own hands, then it is best to limit yourself to one of the most popular and at the same time accessible and easy-to-arrange schemes:



  • A variant of a floating two-level stretch ceiling.

Of course, the project of the future film decor is chosen based on the features of the interior of the room, the experience and capabilities of the master. But even the simplest designs can look quite spectacular, especially if you make them yourself.

A successful combination of a dark upper level and light boxes and chandeliers

Two-level stretch ceiling on a box

The ceiling structure with a second level installed along the perimeter of the surface can be made in several versions. In the simplest case, the second level is assembled in the form of a box installed in the area where the ceiling adjoins the wall, photo.

The basis of the profile ceiling decor

In this case, to build the base of the upper part of the two-level tension decor, a double profile or a special design is used in which two edges of the upper and lower panels can be simultaneously fixed.

In order to reliably hold simultaneously two stretched film decorations, the frame of a two-level stretch ceiling must be quite rigid, therefore, mainly aluminum corners and steel galvanized profiles, sometimes beams and even plywood are used for fastening.

Prefabricated frame option

In such a design, an unusual technique is used for fixing the tensioning fabric, when the lower-level film is installed on the ceiling frame with a bend at an angle of 90 °.

Scheme for a box from a bar

If the frame is made of sawn timber and plywood, then an additional profile with a rounded edge, also called a bumper, is used to fold the panel.

Advice! Instead of a bump stop, you can put any wall molding, in which the supporting part is made with a tide along the edge.

It is clear that the edge or outer corner of the supporting frame does not have to be straight, very often the upper level of a two-level ceiling is made in the form of a complex curve, rounded arcuate frames can also be used.

Floating two-level illuminated ceilings

Tension decor can be built according to a more complex scheme. In this case, the lighting of the upper level is used, which creates the effect of a floating ceiling.

More sophisticated backlit option

Structurally, such a ceiling is assembled on a frame made of aluminum and steel profiles. The upper level is mounted on a regular wall molding, fixed to the main frame in a horizontal position.

The lower level is more complex. Firstly, the attachment point of the tensioning web is shifted relative to the bearing console by 60 mm; an aluminum corner 40x60 mm is used to carry out the system of two baguettes.

The upper level is raised above the second canvas to a height of only 40 -50 mm, between the frame parts, a 60x60 mm niche is formed, into which the backlight will be placed in the future.

The lower sheet of the two-level ceiling is stretched over the h-profile installed upward with a lock, the tensioning material bypasses the second fastener element and is fixed to the wall using a standard wall molding.

A similar scheme is widely used for arranging stretch two-level ceilings with an insert or niche located in the center of the room. Technologically, the assembly of such structures is no different from conventional box-shaped schemes, the only condition is the use of split embedded rails, to which the stretch ceiling profiles are attached.

How to make a two-level stretch ceiling with your own hands

Installing a ceiling decor with two levels of vinyl is not a big problem, but first you need to decide how to assemble the supporting frame.

There are two options for frame frames used for two-level ceilings, which are easy enough to assemble at home with your own hands:

  • The wooden frame is assembled from a bar and lining; to install the canvas along the corner and the lower tier, baguettes for film are mounted;
  • A ready-made aluminum alloy ceiling profile with built-in locks is used.

The simplest version on an aluminum frame

It is only an experienced craftsman who can independently make a complex structure for a two-level canvas with rounded edges and curvilinear transitions; in an amateur version, such structures are rarely obtained. According to reviews, even experts prefer to use standard profiles, resorting to homemade frames only in the case of arranging stretch ceilings that are non-standard in shape and size.

How to make a frame of two-level stretch ceilings

If the simplest design with the arrangement of the box around the perimeter of the ceiling is chosen as the scheme, then the simplest and fastest way is to use a standard profile of the PL75 type.

A timber is needed for the installation of the profile

The use of ready-made aluminum frame parts greatly simplifies the installation process, especially since the range of fasteners is large enough to make the most complex multi-level structures. You just need to choose the required type of profile and prepare the base for fastening to stretch ceilings.

Plywood stretch ceiling box

If a two-level ceiling decor needs to be installed at minimal cost, then the frame for the canvas can be assembled with your own hands from pieces of plywood and boards 20 cm wide and 25 mm thick, and in addition, you will need a beam that ensures the longitudinal rigidity of the entire structure.

Preparation for the installation of a two-level stretch ceiling

Before proceeding with the installation work, it is necessary to clean the ceiling from the old finish, remove dust, debris, and treat the surface with a strengthening compound. It will be useful to coat the concrete surface once with a solution of an etchant that will block the formation and spread of fungal growth.

It will also be necessary to seal up all cracks and joints between the plates with a repair mortar. This is done in order to avoid possible sagging of the fasteners, if suddenly the place of installation of the dowel or self-tapping screw will fall on the defective part of the concrete ceiling.

Required tools and materials

To make a two-level ceiling, the following tools are required:

  • Perforator with a set of hammer drills with a diameter of 6-12 mm;
  • Screwdriver with a set of bits and drills;
  • A marking tool, a laser level, a construction cord or a bubble device for drawing the horizon over a long overlap length;
  • Scissors for metal, jigsaw with a set of saws.

In addition, you will need dowels with screws and plugs with a diameter of 8 mm, bug fixings, corners, an aluminum supporting profile, if the frame for a two-level decor is made from a standard baguette. If the frame structure is planned to be assembled with wood, it will be necessary to prepare a board or plywood pieces 20 cm wide and 15-20 mm thick.

It is clear that you will need the tensioning fabric itself, a glazing bead or a harpoon, as well as glue and decorative overlays, which will close the cracks and joints in the abutment zones. Depending on the frame structure scheme, you will need a wall and ceiling molding, you may need to purchase a double W-shaped profile for joining several stretch ceiling canvases.

Installation of structures of two-level stretch ceilings

The simplest is the installation of a standard PL75 profile or any of its analogues. Before installation, markings are applied to the ceiling. First of all, a lining bar is mounted on a concrete slab, its task is to level the horizon of the base of the future frame, otherwise the two-level ceiling will not turn out completely even.

The frame is reinforced with either wooden bars or triangles from the profile

It takes a lot of time and effort to trim and fix a wooden part, so the craftsmen try to replace the bar with washers or short fiberboard pads. In this case, PL75 is attached directly to the floor slabs using standard fasteners and embedded plugs.

Upon completion of the installation of the supporting profile, you can determine the height at which the lower plane of the two-level ceiling will be located. Only after transferring the markings to the walls can you install “n” or “h” - baguettes to fix the stretch fabric on the wall surface.

If the frame of the future two-level ceiling is supposed to be built of wood, then first of all it is necessary to apply the markings and contours of the future decor to the ceiling. The next step is to attach vertical plywood partitions using aluminum corners.

The next step is to install horizontal crossbars from a bar, they are fastened with ordinary carpentry screws. After it was possible to align all the details of the frame, you can install baguettes to stretch the decorative canvas.

The top level is put first.

If the structure of a two-level ceiling decor consists of curved arcs and lines, for example, the frame is made in the form of an oval or in the form of a complex rounding, then the profile for the film must be reinforced with additional supports and corners.

For example, you can use a standard profile for attaching the frame of plasterboard ceilings, it is enough to cut the material into pieces, make an incision and bend it in the form of a mounting angle.

Technology of installation of a canvas of a two-level stretch ceiling

The main problem that one has to face at the final stage is related to the correct distribution of the tensile force of the PVC film during installation.

Important! If a two-level ceiling consists of several sections, then the installation of the stretching material should be carried out sequentially, mounting sections located at opposite ends of the ceiling.

This is done in order to compensate for the tensile forces on the frame.

For the simplest structures in the form of a box, the installation of the tensioning fabric begins from the upper tier. After warming up and sealing the edges of the first level panel, you need to proceed to installing the decorative film in the center of the frame.

How to make backlighting in two-level stretch ceilings

PVC film does not tolerate heat well, so LED lamps are the only acceptable option for organizing backlighting. They are laid directly in the grooves of the baguettes, or they are mounted in the frame niches, specially equipped for organizing the lighting of a two-level ceiling.

In the latter case, instead of a strip of LEDs, you can use built-in lights, fixed on jumpers laid on the frame during the assembly process of the box. In this case, the wiring and fasteners are hidden on a wooden or aluminum frame, supporting the ceiling panels.

Rings under the lights must be installed before installing the tensioning web

Conclusion

Installation of a stretch two-level ceiling for the simplest structures does not require special knowledge and skills, it is enough just to choose the right ceiling profile and conscientiously fix the supporting bar and tension material. For complex curved PVC structures, experience and the ability to correctly assess the reliability of the assembled frame are required. Therefore, it is best to entrust multi-level and exclusive projects to professionals.

Modern types of ceiling design amaze our imagination not only with their appearance, but also are able to surprise with the perfection of the technologies used. The design of most suspended systems is specially designed in such a way that it would be possible to make a beautiful ceiling on our own, moreover, quickly and efficiently. There are quite a lot of options for finishing the ceiling part today, however, more and more often, bunk stretch ceilings are used for in-house design. Why? The thing is that this type of finish has high aesthetic qualities. Moreover, the installation of such a structure has recently become much more affordable for the mass consumer.

A two-tiered ceiling made of stretched PVC film today can successfully replace common gypsum plasterboard structures. The time spent on the installation of a two-tier tensioning system is an order of magnitude less than the time spent on installing the frame, installing drywall, putty and painting a new surface.

Let's figure out what a two-level stretch ceiling system is. Let's take a closer look at what the main technical features of this version of the ceiling design should be known and what to focus on during installation work.

Tension suspended structures in two tiers - a tribute to fashion or a successful technical solution

Multilevel stretch ceilings are always stylish and fashionable. Due to the varied texture of the film material, you can always design the ceiling part in a living room in an original and non-standard way. The technology of stretching the PVC cloth has become much simpler and clearer. In terms of the time spent and labor intensity, such work significantly surpasses the option of finishing ceilings using a plasterboard plate. Two-tier surfaces radically change not only the appearance of the ceiling part inside the room, but are also able to modify the geometry of the room, to provide the necessary zoning of the internal space.

This design is distinguished not only by the huge possibilities in the choice of colors and textures. Stretch ceilings in two or more tiers amaze with the boldness of design solutions. What you can get at the output:

  • combined ceiling surfaces, where the color scheme and texture of the material are successfully combined;
  • curvilinear structures, ready-made ceiling parts of any shape;
  • volumetric surfaces in 3D.

Almost any finishing option is a wealth of forms, a variety of variations in performance and color solutions.

In addition, modern technologies allow you to use this method of finishing yourself, using a minimum set of tools and fixtures. The cost of repairing ceilings using a stretched canvas depends on the number of elements used in the structure and the area of ​​the working surface, as well as on the texture of the canvas and the complexity of the shapes.

Bunk stretch ceilings. Design features and functionality

The system of suspended ceiling structures, made of PVC film, consists of a light frame and a main sheet. Unlike plasterboard ceilings, the frame for a multi-tiered tension structure looks much simpler. It is not a bulky set of metal profiles installed on the ceiling that is used here, but aluminum profiles reinforced around the perimeter of the room.

There are no longitudinal non-transverse profiles in the frame. The curtain is attached directly to the profiles attached to the walls in the upper part of the room. The canvas is made of polyvinyl chloride film. To fix the fabric in the profiles, you can use the most common technology, the harpoon method of fastening the film or other methods. All installation options are quite suitable for what you could do yourself, with your own hands.

The main difference between this type of finish and traditional, single-level tensioning systems is the configuration. The shape of the tiers, their configuration is a key factor that gives the ceiling decoration originality.

On a note: most often, several levels are achieved by creating stepped structures. For each tier, its own frame is made. For these purposes, it is best to use a gapless harpoon blade fastening system.

It should be noted that the height of each level is limited only by the technological parameters of the room. The outline of each level can be of any shape, curved or rectangular. As for the functionality of this type of ceiling design, tension structures will give odds to other design options.

  • Firstly: it is always much easier to care for such ceilings;
  • Secondly: such ceiling surfaces provide protection of the internal space from flooding;
  • Thirdly: with proper operation, such surfaces have a long service life;
  • Fourthly: stretched fabric allows for local repair of the ceiling;
  • Fifthly: if desired, you can always independently dismantle one or more levels by changing the design of the ceiling.

So you can go on for a very long time, list the main functional advantages of tensioning multi-tiered systems. Do not forget that in the process of installing multi-tiered film ceilings, you solve several technical problems at once. With this type of ceiling design, you will be able to hide obvious flaws and defects of the base surface, you will achieve the creation of the necessary zoning of the internal space. Externally, such a ceiling will meet the highest requirements of aesthetics and style.

It should be noted that two-tiered or multi-tiered suspended ceiling systems based on stretched PVC film are very convenient in terms of improving the interior layout of premises. Using the features of central lighting and local lighting sources using several levels, you can visually align the walls, give a square room an elongated, rectangular appearance. The design of the suspension system makes it easy to equip hidden, decorative lighting.

Thanks to the combination of the color and structure of the fabric in combination with the technical features of the room, multi-tiered stretch and living rooms are irreplaceable.

For reference: Maintenance of two-tiered or multi-tiered PVC film suspended ceiling systems is carried out using ordinary household detergents. Do not use chemically active substances, detergents and cleaning agents containing abrasive elements.

In which rooms do stretch ceilings look best?

First of all, it is worth saying a few words about where such a surface will look best, since the installation of a two-level stretch ceiling can either radically change the interior of the room.

The main requirement that must be observed with such types of ceiling design is the readiness of the interior. All repair and finishing work inside the premises must be completed. Stretch ceiling structures are already the finishing point in creating an original interior.

As for the rooms in which the ceiling structures made of stretched film will look best, there are a number of aspects here. First of all - if you want to get your finishing work done quickly, bunk ceilings are not a quick and easy technical solution. Therefore, you should tune in to long-term work.

On a note: in comparison with the installation of plasterboard ceilings, the completion of all stages takes 3-5 days, tension systems in several tiers are mounted within 1-2 days.

The next aspect that should be paid attention to when choosing a ceiling design is the intended use of the room and its technological features. For example, in a children's room, two-level ceilings do not always look good. The situation is similar with sleeping quarters. Most of the levels eat up the internal volume, so this option for finishing the ceiling is best used where the area and height of the premises are not critical.

The two levels do an excellent job of visually correcting the interior space. An angular room, due to several levels on the ceiling, can become a room with smooth lines and contours. A square by mounting a two-tier tensioning system turns into a rectangle and vice versa. This property is typical for guest rooms, halls and hallways, where it is required to visually increase the volume of the premises.

Hidden lighting will only increase the aesthetic perception of the hinged part in the room. The figure shows the different design options for the ceiling section, created by several levels of stretched fabric.

Two-level stretch ceiling - how to do it yourself

If you have an idea of ​​how suspended ceilings should look like, how the installation technology is built, then it will not be difficult for you to make original bunk suspension systems in your apartment.

Clean installation in this case does not involve dirty and wet painting. When installing a suspension system based on PVC film, you will not have a large amount of construction waste inside the room.

On a note: when all the finishing works are finished inside the room, the wallpaper is glued, the floor covering is installed, the tension of the canvas in the upper part of the room will not be associated with the risk of damaging the interior elements.

All work is carried out in stages:

  • preparation of the upper part of the room (cleaning of old structural elements and laying of wired communications);
  • installation of a frame for each tier (plywood, chipboard or OSB is used);
  • a large area of ​​the base ceiling is covered with a stretched film of the selected color and texture (starry sky, galaxy or blue cloudy sky).

The combination of each level with a background or with a picture on the film provides the desired effect. This option clearly conveys the method of installing a two-tier structure. With multilevel systems, the situation is somewhat more complicated.

In custody

The technology that you will have to face when making multi-tiered suspended ceilings based on a stretched canvas is not associated with special difficulties. It is important to remember that for mounting such a structure, it is best to use a slotless harpoon mounting method. This technology is very convenient for multi-level ceiling systems.

All subsequent work is carried out in stages, where each stage is characterized by the achievement of certain goals and results. In order to do everything right, remember the following points:

1. Two-tier suspended tensioning systems are a very convenient and original type of ceiling design.

2. In comparison with plasterboard suspended structures in several tiers - a stretched film in two or more tiers allows you to quickly achieve the desired effect

3. The main advantages of this type of ceiling design are as follows:

  • quick installation;
  • the ability to hide defects and communications in the interceiling space;
  • a large selection of colors, patterns, shapes and configurations for the design of the ceiling;
  • affordable and easy care.

4. Stretched canvas ceilings in several levels are best placed inside large and spacious rooms.

5. Installation is carried out only after the completion of all finishing works

Do you want to learn how to put such complex ceilings like in the starting photo?

Then you've come to the right place! Today we will take a closer look at how the installation of stretch ceilings in two levels is carried out.

This material will be useful, first of all, for novice craftsmen who have not yet performed such work, but they do not want to miss a good client. And it is right!

You always need to strive for more, and not at the expense of your "I", which can often be found at different construction sites, when the masters "in words", in fact, cannot do what is required of them, but systematically developing their skills and abilities, becoming real professionals. A competent approach to business is the key to your success!

Training

We will go in order, and as usual with, the work begins with the installation of the framework, but first, let's make a small digression in order to understand what we need to do in the end, and what materials and tools are needed for this.

Tools and materials

If you have previously pulled on single-level ceilings, then it means that you already have the tool, but it will not be superfluous to repeat.

So:

One of the main tools in this work is the hammer drill. Moreover, they have to work quite intensively, since the profile is fastened with a more frequent step than, for example, when assembling a plasterboard ceiling, so it is important to have a high-quality device from a good manufacturer.

Advice! Since the work always takes place under the ceiling and very often in already occupied rooms, it will not be superfluous to purchase a perforator with a vacuum cleaner. You will save yourself from littering the space around, plus the dust will not constantly fall on your head and eyes.

You cannot do without a screwdriver in this work either. Take a model with good batteries and high torque. It is desirable that it be compact, light enough and balanced in weight so that it can be safely placed on the battery on level surfaces. We do not need a strong traction, since the screws are twisted into dowels, or into a tree or a plasterboard profile, but if you want to have a more powerful assistant just in case, then why not, but then get ready to overpay a little.

Such a belt greatly facilitates work at height. You don't have to constantly bend over or go down to replenish stocks of screws or dowels - everything is at hand. In addition, you can put replaceable drills, cue balls and even a screwdriver in a separate pocket.

As a result, there are fewer squats and unnecessary movements, which means less stress on the knee joints and leg muscles. Whoever worked under the ceiling will understand!

Do not be surprised, but we also need a jigsaw. We will use it to cut blanks for a multilevel frame - more on that later.

Of course, you can do with the water one, but it is several times longer and more difficult, which you will understand further in the course of our story. It is advisable to have a tool that beats with a cross, but a single-plane will also work. If you don't have it yet, we recommend getting it as soon as possible.

and a cylinder with a reducer to it is all that is needed to heat the web under tension. Additionally, you can purchase a construction hair dryer for convenient work with local areas.

You can make a similar tool yourself by turning it out of a hard spatula, but it is better to have a professional set with the shapes of working surfaces for various difficult places.

These devices are needed to temporarily hang the canvas from the ceiling to preheat it.

As with almost any type of installation work, you will also need:

  • Pencil;
  • Yardstick;
  • Joiner's square;
  • Markers;
  • Dyeing thread;
  • Stationery knife;
  • Building level.

Perhaps we forgot to mention some of the little things, but when describing the installation, they will certainly come up, so we read on.

Now let's list the main material, accessories and consumables that you can't do without:

  • The ceiling itself, where is it without it - after the frame is mounted, the film will stretch over it.

  • A load-bearing wall frame - no matter what profile it is, or what material it is made of (PVC or aluminum), we are now interested in its functional purpose. This baguette is screwed along the walls, forming the basis for fixing the canvas.

  • We need plywood to form the base of the lower levels. If the installation of a rectilinear box is carried out, then its thickness should be at least 15 mm, but if we are talking about curved structures, then you can take 4-5 mm for homemade base production for subsequent bending and layer-by-layer reinforcement, but this option is an extreme case, which we will discuss in detail below.

  • Strong and even corners made of galvanized steel - they are used to fasten the plywood or plastic base to the load-bearing floor.

  • The divider is located in the inner corners of multi-level structures, allowing you to connect different canvases in one line. It is mounted on plywood, if desired, it can be replaced with a universal profile along with a wall one.
  • The bumper is mounted on the bottom edge of the plywood and forms the front edge of the outer corner of the lower level of the structure. In other words, the tension of the web passes through it.

  • The mouthpiece is a plastic nozzle that is worn over the lower edge of the bumper to protect the blade from contact with possible burrs on the metal or cut plastic profile, as well as to make the bend at the corner smoother and more beautiful.

From consumables you will need: plastic dowels, wood screws of the appropriate length, reinforced tape, thermal rings and glue for them (for example, "Cosmofen"), metal direct suspensions and, of course, a good mood - do not waste it !!!

Installing the frame

Well, we have learned, without which it makes no sense to start work. Now let's take a closer look at everything.

Markup

Let's start with a simpler option, when it is supposed to make a straight box.

First, we need to define the boundaries of the future structure. We need a laser level, pencil and tape measure.

  • First of all, we negotiate with the customer the dimensions of the future design and draw up a small drawing on paper - better to scale.
  • We mark the ceiling - for this we set aside the distance from the wall on a tape measure, 2 centimeters less than the agreed one. This is done in order to take into account the thickness of the bumper and separator. If markings are made for a curved structure, we make a margin of 3 centimeters in order to also take into account the thickness of the plastic.

  • Further, using the drawn marks, using a dye thread, we beat off straight lines, forming a contour along which we will perform the installation of our frame.

  • Next, the lower boundary of the ceiling is determined. If, according to the project, the smallest distance to the overlap is clearly defined, then first you need to find the lowest point on the overlap - most often this is one of the corners in the room.
  • We install the laser axial plotter, and along the lines drawn by it we put down marks in the corners of the room.
  • We measure the distance from them to the ceiling, finding the smallest value that needs to be compared with the design height. If it is less, then we put the resulting difference down from the marks on the tape measure.
  • If you need to check the entire surface of the ceiling, for example, you have a strict reference to the height or wiring, then fixing the level under the ceiling, we methodically walk along the entire ceiling, applying a tape measure - the laser will show you all the differences, intersecting with it.

  • After these simple manipulations, we draw lines with a dye thread - we pull it and beat it off, not forgetting to pour the dye into the body of the device before unwinding.

With the marking of curved structures, everything is a little more complicated. They can be roughly divided into two types: regular and irregular.

The former include figures that can be drawn with a compass, for example, a drawing consisting of circles or an ellipse. The latter can have an arbitrary shape with small waves and non-standard bends.

How long should the compasses be, you ask. Yes, in fact, it doesn't matter, we will assemble it ourselves for specific needs. To do this, you will need an aluminum profile (although any other metal one will do), a sharpened pencil, a pair of self-tapping screws and one dowel screw.

  • We take a profile and drill a hole in it equal to the diameter of a simple pencil. Then we install the pencil itself into it.
  • Having retreated from this hole the required distance (radius), we drill the second hole, which will correspond to the central axis of the circle.

Advice! If it suddenly turns out that the length of one profile is not enough, then connect two pieces in length using self-tapping screws.

  • We drill a hole in the ceiling in the center of the future circle and attach the profile to it through a dowel screw.

The compass is ready - you can use it to draw a perfectly even circle.

If it is necessary to apply a non-standard pattern to the ceiling, it is most convenient to proceed as follows:

  • For a more accurate orientation, it is worth initially marking not the ceiling, but the floor.
  • At the control points, we glue pieces of masking tape, and mark them with a pencil. If necessary, the tape can be easily removed or moved.
  • The more points you apply, the more accurate the outline you will get.

  • Next, we take a laser level and set it to the center of the cross, one by one, along all the points drawn earlier. As you might guess, the tool will project a second cross of the same kind on the ceiling, in the center of which we make a mark.
  • If you have a simple level that cannot build a cross, then it's okay - we install it perpendicular to the wall and measure the distance from the bottom point to the wall, after which we put it off at the top along the laser line.

  • Next, take a wall-mounted plastic molding and bend it along the resulting control points. Make sure that there are no strong kinks and obvious violations of the geometry.
  • With a pencil, draw a contour along a curved profile. We do this first, applying slight pressure to the pencil to be able to make adjustments.

  • Check the accuracy of the line, making changes if necessary, and make the finishing line thicker already.

This completes the marking, and you can move on.

Assembling the frame

The straight frame is the easiest to install, so let's start with that.

  • After completing all the markings, you can accurately determine the height of the plywood blanks, from which the frame, in fact, is assembled. It is important to remember two points here: the lower edge of the plywood during installation should not reach the level of the box by 0.5 centimeters; plywood should not rest against the ceiling.
  • If you have the opportunity to do all the calculations in one day, then you can deliver the plywood to the object in a sawn form. Such services are provided by large construction centers upon purchase, such as Leroy Merlin. If this is not possible, or sellers in stores in your city have their hair on end from such questions, then you will have to use a jigsaw, cutting everything out yourself.

  • When determining the width of plywood, it is worth considering many nuances, some of which we have already named. The base ceiling very often has elevation differences at the joints of reinforced concrete slabs or wiring is stretched along it.
  • Some of this can be taken into account immediately during sawing, making different heights of plywood, but much is much more convenient to bring, as they say, in place, for example, cut off a corner of plywood resting on a bump or make a recess for an electric cable.

Getting started with the installation:

  • Apply a piece of plywood along the line on the ceiling.
  • We put a steel corner on the edge, setting it so that the next workpiece can be screwed to it. It should be remembered that the distance from the edge of the frame to the wall should be 3 centimeters, which is required for further installation of the wall profile and corners.
  • We make a mark on the ceiling with a marker or pencil.

  • Next, we drill into the ceiling and attach the corner to the dowel, screwing several screws into it at once for greater strength. Add a couple more dowels by drilling straight through the perforation.
  • Add several corners to the fixed sheet in the center so that the step between them is 70-80 centimeters - with the current thickness of the plywood sheet, this is more than enough.
  • We attach to the corners with self-tapping screws for wood, simultaneously adjusting the position of the edge of the frame along the markings and placing it vertically, for which plastic linings of different thicknesses are made in the right places. The lower edge is adjusted according to the laser level, previously set half a centimeter above the initial level.

At this stage, it is worth paying special attention to the evenness of the frame, since the appearance of the finished ceiling will entirely depend on this. If necessary, increase the number of corners - ideally, the front wall of the plywood should be flush with the vertical level.

Finally, check the reliability of the frame for loosening and reinforce the structure with all kinds of stops and braces.

We turn to the analysis of the installation of the curved frame. As you remember, we wrote earlier that its markup requires an indent of not 2, but 3 centimeters. Now you will understand why.

  • For the installation of a curved frame, it is best to use sheet foamed plastic, which can be purchased at hardware stores, from the manufacturer, or from some stretch ceiling dealers. Its thickness is 8-10 millimeters - we choose based on the steepness of the radius of the executed figure (thin less durable, but bends much better).

Advice! We do not recommend using MDF panels, plywood, hardboard, chipboard and other analogues for these purposes, since you will not save much on the cost of the structure, but the final strength will become much worse. Moreover, it is much more difficult to bend these materials.

  • So, to make the bends and turns of the box as smooth as possible, we suggest this method. Instead of metal corners, which sometimes can be set exactly, only an experienced craftsman can do it, we will use a guide made of a metal PNP profile, which is usually used for.
  • Why such difficulties, you ask? But after seeing the result as a result, it will become clear to you that we have simplified the task for ourselves, while making the contours of the levels perfectly even, which is very difficult to achieve when working with corners.
  • By the way, precisely because a plastic panel is attached to the guide, set along the drawn lines, and such an indent was needed. As a result, we reach the required 2 centimeters.
  • First, we check the base for evenness. In the example shown in the photographs presented, the reinforced concrete slabs were steeply sloped to ensure proper drainage of water from the roof during rains.

  • First of all, we take the profile and cut its lateral edges in steps of 5-6 centimeters (the smaller, the more accurately it will be able to expose). You can use metal scissors for cutting, but the work will go much faster with a grinder.
  • Next, we fasten it according to our markup, having previously bend the lower edges down so that they do not interfere with the work.

  • Usually, installation is carried out directly to the concrete floor, but since we have already mentioned a significant bias, the craftsmen had to pre-level the plane using a simple structure made of plywood and a bar of the required thickness.
  • So that the profile does not lead, we fix it step by step, starting from one side and moving to the opposite. In this case, the fixation step should not exceed 10 centimeters. This recommendation applies to a high-quality, rigid profile, for example, from the Knauf company. Try not to take thinner options, but if there is no way out, then increase the step of the fasteners.
  • We carefully make sure that the edge of the profile goes exactly according to the markings, since the evenness of the finished ceiling will depend on this. If somewhere it does not become exactly, then you can knock it down with a hammer in this place, and install an additional self-tapping screw.

  • Next, we cut the plastic. Pay special attention to the accuracy of cutting, as it depends on how accurately we catch the level when attaching it. Use rigid aluminum profile guides and a sharp cutting knife for cutting.

  • Then we begin to attach the plastic to the guide. This is done using self-tapping screws for metal with a small step, while you need to constantly level the lower edge according to the level that the same laser level will kindly draw to us. It is for this reason that two people need to do this work - one twists, the other holds, focusing on the line.
  • The requirements for the width of the plastic are exactly the same as those that we took into account when cutting the plywood for a straight structure.

Additionally, fasten the joints of the plastic sheets using a tire from the same profile.

Installing a profile

We have finished with the frame, proceed to installing all the profiles.

  • We start by installing a wall profile for the upper level - the markup is already ready for us. We fix it along the ready-made holes in the baguette with a step of 12-15 centimeters using dowel screws.
  • On a curved frame, we use self-tapping screws for metal, but already of greater length (35 mm). If the profile is not securely fixed, due to its fragility, we reduce the fastening step by 2 times, while there is no need to drill it first.
  • We monitor the level, and the work will turn out accurate.
  • Next, we prepare an aluminum bump stop - it is stronger and will not deform as a result of the tension of the blade.

  • Its bottom edge is cut using a side saw with a special disc for aluminum. The distance between the cuts directly depends on the bending radius.

Attention! This work can be done with the help of a grinder, but due to the peculiarity of the metal, nodules and burrs form on the sawn edges, which can ruin the canvas, therefore, these edges are sanded with the same grinder. The process will take much longer, so if you are constantly installing multi-level ceilings, buy a trim, which will be useful for other complex work.

  • Next, we drill holes 4 mm in diameter on the remaining intact edge, through which we then attach the profile to the lower edge of our frame using self-tapping screws "bugs", not forgetting to check the level.

  • When installing the bump stop, do not forget that the mouthpiece will be worn on top, and this is another 1.5-2 millimeters in height.

Final works

The next step will be the installation of the upper level of the ceiling.

We will not go too deeply into the details of the process, since everything is extremely clear to any installer: we hang the canvas on the clamps, warm it up with a heat gun, fill first the corners, then the centers of the sides and finally go through the remaining parts evenly, not forgetting to maintain the operating temperature of the ceiling at a given level (60 ° C).

  • Next, we proceed to the installation of a universal profile, which will ensure the abutment of the lower level to the already tensioned surface.

  • Pay attention to the diagram above for how the universal profile is located. Its mounting platform should fit snugly against the frame, while the upper point touches the stretch ceiling. Only in this way the joint will be tight and invisible.
  • In this case, too tight pressure on the upper level should not be allowed, as this can lead to deformations, and as a result, the formation of gaps between the insert and the ceiling.

  • Before installing on curved sections, the profile is sawn, similar to a bump stop, but since we use plastic here, a grinder is enough.

  • Next, we fix the profile under the ceiling according to the already indicated scheme. Do not forget to leave a gap of 1 centimeter when approaching the wall, so that there is room for installing the corner from the profile.
  • The next step is to make and install the corners from the wall plastic profile.

  • We saw down the angles at 45 degrees using a facing or grinder, having previously completed accurate markings using a carpenter's square.
  • Then we take super glue and glue the parts together - everything is simple.
  • After gluing, do not forget to check the evenness of the corner with a square. After that, the workpiece needs to be shortened, for which we put on a piece of the mouthpiece near the wall and measure the distance from the stretched level. Move it to the corner and cut off the excess.

  • We process the sharp corners of our workpiece with emery paper so as not to damage the film during tension.
  • We drill the mounting holes in it, and the part is ready for installation.

  • We install the corners in place, precisely matching the edges with the profiles and the bump stop with the wearing mouthpiece. At the end, we additionally strengthen the structure with self-tapping screws so that it does not "walk" when stretched.

The next step is to install the mouthpiece along the entire length of the lower edge of the bumper. For high-quality joints, it is recommended to process the edges of this part with a grinder. After that, we put it in place, tapping with a spatula handle or something similar for a tight connection.

Now it remains to glue all the joints and corners with reinforced tape. It is convenient to work with it, as it is quite durable and elastic.

Such a measure will protect the film from contact with possible burrs. It is important to tuck the edges of the adhesive tape into the mounting grooves of the profile with a spatula so that it does not interfere during installation.

Stretching the blade to the lower level

So, our structure is ready, all the mortgages are mounted and the joints are glued. We begin to stretch the canvas.

If the ceiling is glossy, then do not forget to preheat it very well. We stop heating only when the canvas begins to tremble from a stream of hot air, like jelly.

This procedure is called glossing. If it is made with high quality, then in the end the ceiling will be much more beautiful (have a more pronounced shine), but do not forget that the quality of the canvas also affects this.

The tensioning procedure itself is not complicated. Everything is as usual, the main thing is that all corners are well processed.

After the canvas is installed, it remains to mount the decorative plug. We cut the corner joints at 45 degrees - if cracks are visible there, then we coat them with white sealant or silicone.

That's all! The ceiling is ready and can be handed over to your favorite customer for acceptance. Installation of a two-level stretch ceiling video - will help you understand the topic even better. We hope the material was informative and useful for you. Best wishes!