Do-it-yourself outdoor socket installation. Correct installation of electrical outlets in the apartment

For each of these types, distribution boxes, sockets and switches are produced, which are also called electrical points or network connection nodes.

When installing them, many home craftsmen pay primary attention to the design of the room and ease of use. However, it is worth considering such requirements for their electrical characteristics as:

reliable contact connections ensuring high-quality passage of electricity with minimal voltage losses;

strong electrical insulation of current-carrying conductors and structural elements exposed to network potential;

operational safety, including ease of operation, access restrictions, fire protection.

Installation of sockets and switches in hidden wiring

Walls made of concrete slabs, bricks, foam concrete

In old Soviet-built houses, void channels and outlet openings were created inside the walls for installing switches and sockets. Wiring was installed in them and metal boxes were installed, mounted using a solution of concrete or alabaster after the cable was installed.

When the mortar firmly grasped the installation box, a socket was inserted inside it and the housing was securely fixed with the screws of the sliding legs installed in the spacer bracket. In this way, the socket was fixed inside the wall through the installation box and hardened concrete.

The internal fastening of the switch was also carried out using this decades-proven technology. Switches with sockets are still attached to it. Only instead of metal boxes they began to use plastic non-flammable materials based on high-strength grades of polypropylene foam, which have good dielectric properties and fire resistance.

In addition, when the sliding legs are spaced in a dense plastic case, a strong connection is created that securely holds the socket in the wall. When the box is metal, it provides less friction (better sliding on created surfaces) and withstands mechanical loads less well.

For this reason, old sockets are often pulled out of their installation boxes, creating a pre-emergency situation.

Nowadays, many apartment owners are replacing outdated electrical wiring or installing new wiring themselves in buildings under construction. Cases often arise when walls made of concrete, brick, and foam blocks do not have internal cavities for installing cables and wires.

Nowadays, residents have many electrical appliances, but there may not be enough outlets to use them. Therefore, it is customary to install not one, but several sockets, assembled into consecutive blocks. For their installation, special socket boxes are used, as shown in black in the figure. You can also assemble a design from single modules that are inserted one into the other. This option is shown in the picture with blue boxes.

After the installation hole for one or more sockets is ready, a socket box with an inserted cable is inserted into it and fixed with mortar.

When the mixture hardens and allows the socket to be mounted, it can be secured with the same spacer bracket with sliding clamp legs. In addition to this method, modern socket boxes have sockets for screw fastening of the internal contact mechanism. This allows you to choose the optimal installation option.

Fastening the mechanisms of sockets and switches with self-tapping screws is characterized by increased reliability and durability.

Walls covered with ceramic or gypsum tiles

It can be quite difficult to install an outlet or switch inside a wall when it is already covered with ceramic tiles. In this case, there is a high risk of damage to fragile surfaces. Many electricians simply refuse such work, not wanting to deal with fragile material that can form cracks in the most unexpected places.

However, the job can be done if you use a special tool and are careful. The technology shown in the photographs allows you to install a socket on ceramic tiles. You just need to take into account that inside the wall in the chosen place there is a cavity for laying the cable or old wiring is laid.

You can drill holes in ceramics using special Pobedit drills or a diamond-coated crown. However, it is better to purchase the latter for permanent professional work because of its cost. You can install several sockets in the tiles using a drill, creating holes around the perimeter of the circle, as shown in the photographs.

Initially, you will need to mark the tiles with a pencil, ruler and compass, taking into account the horizon line. Then the centers are drilled on it and chamfered around the entire circle using a ballerina drill.

After the drilling work is completed, they begin to knock out excess pieces by striking a chisel, chisel or chisel with a hammer. At the same time, careful actions are important when it is necessary to limit the force of impact due to the fragility of ceramics. A sharply sharpened blade will easily chip off the edges and will not allow the creation of deep cracks extending beyond the marked area.

When the internal space of the tile is removed with the cutting edges of the chisel, you will immediately need to level its walls. To do this, use an emery wheel driven into rotation by a conventional drill.

drill holes in the freed concrete for the installation box. It is important not to touch the already processed edges in the ceramic with the drill;

Drill out the concrete under the tiles first with a small diameter drill, and then expand with a larger one. It is not recommended to use a thick drill right away due to the increased loads that will be transferred from the concrete wall to the ceramic tiles;

remove excess concrete between the holes with an electric chisel, as shown in the bottom photo. You can also work with hand tools.

During these operations it is better to use a professional hammer drill. An impact drill can also cope with such loads, but the whole process will take some time and require a lot of effort.

After all the excess concrete has been selected for installing the box, from this place it is necessary to drill a hole to the internal cavity into which the cable will be laid and run it into this line. If the box is installed in place of the old outlet, then this task is greatly simplified.

Once the cable is inserted, it will be visible in the prepared hole. To grab it, use a simple homemade hook made from a small piece of soft wire, inserted behind the back of the cable.

Then the remaining wires are inserted into the same box through the jumpers made, and the entire structure is pressed into a cavity cut out in the wall, which is filled with mortar. For better fastening of the box, it is recommended to break the safety partitions of the holes in it to fill the insides with excess concrete, which can be easily removed before it hardens with a piece of rag.

When the putty hardens inside the box, connect the wires to the terminal blocks and assemble the socket mechanism, checking that its installation is horizontal.

If the installation quality is satisfactory, then a decorative cover is installed on the entire structure and secured with a screw connection.

At the same time, it is not recommended to rush to close the covers before carrying out electrical checks of the circuit. After all, if a break in the electrical connection is detected, or, even worse, a connection error that creates a short circuit, then they will have to be removed again.

Sometimes electricians forget or do not specifically check the installation before applying operating voltage to the circuit, hoping in a hurry that the resulting short circuit will turn off the circuit breaker protection, and a broken wire will result in a non-functioning socket. Then, they say, you will have to look for a malfunction. This is a misconception that characterizes the low qualifications of the performers.

In order for the outlet to work, you will also need to connect the cable on the reverse side of it. According to all the rules, for this it is necessary to make connections inside distribution boxes or panels. But, after all, this is not always possible or advisable. Especially if a small modification of the scheme is made without disturbing the design of the premises.

In this case, the most acceptable exception to the rules is chosen - splicing wires in the internal cavities of the wall. It must be done especially carefully, carefully and reliably. Otherwise, any mistake will cause you to break the wall to find the problem in the future.

To connect the ends of the wires, they are put on them before connecting to strengthen the insulation. Since the metals of the connecting wire can be different, for example, copper and aluminum, steel terminals with screw clamps are used.

Direct connection of such conductors is extremely undesirable due to galvanic processes occurring at the point of contact. During prolonged operation, they lead to oxidation of external surfaces and an increase in contact resistance.

Wires with cleaned ends are inserted into the terminal and clamped with screws with a force that ensures tight contact, but does not violate the integrity of the metal part of the conductor. Then the prepared heat-shrinkable tube is moved to the joining place and heated. If you don’t have an industrial hair dryer, then you can easily get by with the flame of a match or lighter, as shown in the photo.

Checking the assembled structure should not end with identifying the phase wire with an indicator, but testing each new socket under load. For this purpose, you can use the same drill or hammer drill you used. Only a conclusion about operability is made after a test hole is drilled in some material, for example, a metal corner. Running the engine in idle mode may not reveal a hidden defect, which will appear much later.

Walls with plasterboard partitions

Installation of sockets and switches inside thin-walled structures made of plywood, plasterboard, and chipboard is carried out in the same way. The peculiarity of the technology lies in the method of securing the installation box to these building structures.

For this purpose, clamping screws with thrust plates are placed on the outside of the special socket box body.

To install such a box in drywall, you need to cut a hole for the box. You can work with a regular knife after practicing on the wreckage. But, smooth edges and tight edges are ensured by a special circular saw - a crown inserted into the drill chuck. With its help, a neat hole is created very quickly.

After this, all that remains is to insert the box into the hole and tighten the fastening screws, which will push the fixing plates from the inside and tightly clamp the body into the sheet of drywall.

Installation of sockets and switches in open wiring

With this method of fastening electrical wiring, special attention should be paid to the integrity and strength of the insulation, and its ability to withstand random mechanical loads.

To install sockets on building structures, open wooden socket boxes are used - special cut-out disks or plates of rectangular or rounded shape, which are factory-impregnated with a protective fire-fighting compound.

They can also be made of polystyrene, getinax and other non-flammable materials with dielectric and heat-insulating properties with a plate thickness of about 1 cm.

They are fixed to the wall with countersunk screws or glued. On wooden and other materials that can catch fire if a fault occurs in the electrical wiring, additional protection of about 3 mm thick from paronite gaskets is installed.

The housing with the socket or switch mechanism is mounted to the installed socket box with the top cover removed using two ordinary screws with semicircular heads. If you use countersunk models, then their conical end will cut into the hole during screwing and begin to move apart, wedge the body material and eventually split it.

And when such fasteners are not tightened, the socket body together with the mechanism will become loose and eventually simply break. Therefore, screws are used for fastening, pressing the housing tightly to the socket without wedging the material.

But here you need to make sure that the housing cover does not squeeze the wires or cable. If this happens, then over time the pinched insulation will be destroyed by constant mechanical stress during installation and removal of the plug into the contact mechanism. To do this, small areas are broken out in the lids, marked with plastic membranes - pre-presses.

With old sockets and switches, the box cover was more fragile and could crack when the prepress was removed. Therefore, it was previously trimmed with mechanical tools. Modern cases are stronger and stiffer. They allow you to remove the jumper by simply cutting with a knife. But it is not recommended to perform this operation without a tool with bare hands - you can easily injure your fingers.

Connecting an outlet is a responsible matter, requiring the performer to know the rules and nuances of electrical installation. The load on these electrical installation units is now rapidly increasing, and the current consumption sometimes reaches tens of Amperes. The slightest violation of the rules will result in overheating of the device and melting of the contacts, and serious flaws will “pave the way” to catastrophic consequences. Without figuring out how to connect the outlet, it is better not to start any actions with electrical wiring at all. But home craftsmen who have studied the issue will have no difficulties with either installation or subsequent safe operation.

Guidelines for choosing a method for connecting an outlet

Electricians are thoroughly familiar with all the nuances of connecting sockets. For them, this is a standard work operation that they have to perform every day. Home craftsmen who are ignorant of the intricacies of electrical networks have yet to become familiar with the connection steps. Let's start by examining the factors influencing the choice of connection scheme.

Type of socket and its effect on the connection diagram

Let us not, with masochism, unjustified by the probability of practice, “dig” into all the varieties of sockets existing on the planet. Let's consider three common types that are actively used in domestic spaces according to the persistent recommendations of GOST 7396.1-89. These are electrical installation devices:

Standard C 1a - sockets not equipped with grounding contacts. They are designed to operate on a network section with direct current values up to 10A, alternating current up to 16A. Only low-power units that do not require grounding protection can be connected to them. Although they are required to maintain a load of 250 V;
Standard C 2a - sockets with lateral grounding devices. Therefore, their mechanism has an internal terminal for connecting the PE wire to it. The operating mode is similar, but unlike their predecessors, they can power powerful energy consumers. They are used to connect washing machines, water heaters, electric stoves, pumps and other units, whose metal body can invigorate the owner with a breakdown electric crack;
Standard C 3a - sockets equipped with a pin-type grounding contact. The difference with the previous type is only in the configuration and location of the grounding devices.

No special wisdom was discovered: the whole difference is in the elementary presence or in the simplest absence of contacts for. Those. if you plan to install an additional socket for an electric kettle, you can completely get by with the C1a device, and for powerful household electric machines you should select a grounded socket according to the standard size of the plug of the connected equipment.

The presence of a grounding terminal in the design of the socket operating mechanism affects the selection of cable:

To connect an electrical installation point without grounding protection, a cable with two cores is required. Only the neutral and phase wires need to be connected to the mechanism;
To connect to a home electrical network, a grounded socket will require a three-core cable - having a core for connecting to phase, ground and neutral.

You need to determine the cable not only by the number of functional cores, but also by size. Moreover, both the socket and the protective device for the site under construction should be selected according to calculations of the upcoming load. In general, it is not advisable to buy an electrical installation product that receives and transmits less than 16 alternating Amperes. It is better to immediately purchase “with a reserve” than to later exchange for a more powerful device.

Dependence of the installation method on the type of wiring

An important point that influences the choice of both the outlet itself and the method of its installation is the type of electrical wiring: open or closed. Those. The contractor should find out: the cable, switches and power points are reinforced on top of the walls, or the entire household is hidden in the penalty area.

Differences in the installation and connection of the outlet to an open or closed electrical network:

In the first, least labor-intensive case, the technician will have to fix a piece of wiring, most often on a wooden wall. Then fastening the dielectric plate-socket, on which you will need to fix the working part of the socket. Then a decorative and protective case is put on the device. If an open line is laid or will be laid using a cable channel, then before performing the listed operations along the selected route, it will be necessary to first lay it.
In the second, tooth-breaking option, you will have to scrape the walls and drill a hole for one or a group of sockets. Then lay a piece of wire in the groove formed by the hammer drill. Once the electrical installation work is complete, you will need to plaster the grooves and holes. So it’s best to start improving hidden wiring before finishing.

In wooden suburban buildings, electrical wiring is traditionally laid in an open way. And in bathhouses, according to the strict instructions of the PUE, you cannot do without cable channels at all. This means that those who want to figure out how to install an outlet will need to study the technology for attaching these protective boxes before work.

Train or star: what to choose?

A little higher we talked about the cable for a reason. The socket needs to be connected to power, and not just fixed on the wall. To accomplish this, an independent electrician has only two options at his disposal:

Connection to a distribution box with a standard star configuration, according to which independent power lines are created;
Connection to the nearest existing outlet, forming a “loop” diagram, according to which electrical installation devices are located on the same power line “side by side”.

It is possible to “string” additional sockets onto one power beam of a star circuit if the cross-section of the cable with which the planned power point is connected to the circuit allows.

Example. The original 25A socket is connected to the junction box with a cable with a cross-sectional area of 2.5 mm². This means that it will be able to perform the function of a loop source of electricity for a 16 A socket supplied with a wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm².

Which of these schemes is preferable will be determined by upcoming expenses. Of course, it is better to pull an additional line where it is closer. It's cheaper. However, there are situations with the unshakable dictate of the PUE: this is the installation of an outlet for a powerful representative of household appliances. The “loop” is not suitable for pumps, washing units, and boilers. Only the “star”, i.e. Only the distribution box is worthy of becoming its power source.

Pay attention to installation height

There are no strict rules for attaching sockets at a height from the floor line either in the domestic code of electrical laws and regulations of the Electrical Installation Code, or in equivalent regulatory reference books in Europe. The main criteria are comfort combined with operational safety and cable consumption for connection.

The most convenient height is considered to be 30 cm from the plane along which we move. True, such an arrangement will be dangerous for curious children and animals if there are no protective curtains on the device body. By the way, sockets with curtains are highly recommended for organizing electrical circuits in actively humidified rooms.

Nothing and no one prevents the owner from choosing to install a socket 60 cm from the floor with various variations. You can do it right above the baseboard or under the ceiling, if there is a TV “hanging” on brackets in that area. The main thing is to retreat 15 cm or more downwards from the line where the wall meets the upper ceiling and walk around the gas equipment by half a meter. And between the outline of the window opening and the electrical wiring branch, along with all attached devices, there must be at least 10 cm protecting against hypothermia, street dust and overheating.

Stages of connecting an outlet in a bathhouse

Let's consider the case of connecting a surface-mounted socket with grounding to the closest companion. We will follow the rules for forming a “trail”. Those wishing to connect the cable to the junction box will need to make separate branches using clip clamps or by twisting stripped wires followed by welding.

All actions with electrical wiring are performed when the circuit is disconnected from the power supply. It is recommended that after turning off the machine in the panel, immediately check and periodically monitor the presence of voltage in the network with a multimeter.

Step #1 - preparation for upcoming operations

You will need to prepare for work the power source and the directly connected object. The upper part of the housing must be removed from the original socket in order to be able to connect the cable. If the working mechanism is separated from the socket box, you need to unscrew the fastening screws and pull out the block with terminals.

The family of sockets for external wiring includes two varieties:

devices with a mechanism that can be separated from the socket plate;
devices with a mechanism structurally combined with an overhead socket.

Both types can be analyzed in detail. With the first one you need to remove the body and disconnect the working element, with the second only the body.

Step #2 - connecting the cable to the power source

First, let's do a kind of fitting with a marker or felt-tip pen in hand. Let's take into account that:

Inside the box, all three wires (ground, phase, zero) must lie separately. This means that the general insulation that has surrounded all three conductors with a flexible tube must be removed from them;
The wires should be placed freely with some margin for the possibility of carrying out other electrical work with them. In hidden wiring sockets, it is recommended to stock up 20 cm. Such a supply of wire runs the risk of not fitting under the cover of the overhead socket. Electricians advise cutting the exposed wiring cable exactly to size. So the fitting is carried out in order to find out how much can be left and how much can be cut off.
If a section of the circuit is laid without a protective box, the overall cable insulation must be inserted into the housing of the source to which we are connecting, at least 0.5 cm;
To form an impeccable contact, it is necessary to free all three wires of the connected cable from the “personal” insulation by 0.7-1.0 cm. We should not forget that these exposed sections of the cores will be located under the terminal screws, and not lie freely under the cover;
The wires in the socket must be arranged so that their stripped ends do not touch each other.

We tried on how to get it assembled. We noted how much insulation we would remove from the cable and from each of the cores. The general shell can be cut off without unnecessary fuss with a mounting or stationery knife, having previously marked a cutting line on the insulating tube. The insulation from the conductors must be carefully planed, as if sharpening a pencil. Cannot be cut in the same way as general insulating sheathing. The conductor may be damaged.

To ensure optimal contact, we roll up the exposed wire sections into rings. They then need to be lightly flattened with a hammer, due to which the contacting area will significantly increase, and we will get rid of overheating at the connection points. We place rings under the pre-loosened terminal screws according to the color marking. We connect the yellow-green PE wire to the central contact. Determining the phase with zero is not of fundamental importance, because both conductors are designed to create power lines. However, it is advisable to adhere to the traditional marking range, because someday you will have to repair it.

We tighten the terminal screws with force, but without fanaticism. Otherwise, exposed wires will break off, especially if they are aluminum. We check the fastening for strength by diligently tugging on the connected wire. Having made sure of its reliability, we assemble the disassembled power supply and head to the installation site of the new outlet.

Step #3 - directly connecting the new outlet

The principles of wire preparation are similar, and the operating algorithm is similar. Only the start of the work will not be fitting, but fastening the socket box:

We apply the disconnected socket box or the platform combined with the working mechanism (depending on the design of the purchased device) to the wall being equipped to select the optimal position for installation;
Using a pencil, we thinly mark the outline of the socket box and its attachment points on the wall, then check the horizontal accuracy with a level gauge. You can screw the socket box of the surface-mounted socket to a wooden wall immediately after aligning the horizontal and vertical lines of the drawn lines. Fastening is done through the holes available on the installation platform using wood screws. To fix the overhead socket on a concrete or brick surface, first drill holes for dowels;
We connect the block with terminals to the fixed socket box, if it was not aligned;
By analogy with the method described above, we carry out another fitting;
Next, we form the rings, place them under the terminal screws and screw them in diligently;
Convincingly pull the wires near the created contacts;
Did anything fall off? Then, with peace of mind, we put on and fasten the housing cover with the supplied screw.

That's the whole order of work. Not difficult, right?

For those who want to know how to make a whole train of sockets at the same time, the described algorithm will also be very useful. They will have to invest more effort, they will have to tinker longer, but the actions will be exactly the same. They will simply repeat themselves periodically. The number of technological “turns” during the construction of a loop is equal to the number of electrical installation points.

You don't have to be an electrician to understand the process of installing sockets and switches. You need to know the simple rules and stages of work formulated in this article.

Important to know before starting work

Safety conditions

It is important to do all work on installing sockets and switches, laying electrical communications only after the current in the network has been completely turned off. Turn off the automatic or traffic jams. And do not connect until the installation work is completed.

Take the indicator and make sure that the outlet or wiring you are going to work with is de-energized. Professionals suggest using two indicators at once. This will ensure that unwanted consequences are avoided.

Points to consider

You should monitor the condition of the wire insulation and do not use damaged wires.
It is strictly prohibited to cut live wires with wire cutters.
In places where wiring has already been laid, you cannot chisel, drill or cut walls.

Any contact of a screwdriver with the zero and phase wires inevitably provokes a short circuit in the network.

Socket installation standards:

not lower than 20 cm from the floor;
for every 6–10 sq. m. of living rooms, one socket is made.

Rules for installing sockets and switches

In order for the installed system to serve for a long time, it is important to choose the right wires and cables to be connected and lay them out correctly.

To do this, you should take into account:

The power of all future energy-consuming appliances in an apartment or house. The performance of all devices is simply added together. It is necessary to know what the maximum power allocated by the network is.
The choice of wire or cable type depends on the method of laying it: open or internal. It is necessary to decide which gasket is suitable for a specific electrical installation location.
When laying wiring, do not lay the wires in bunches.

Important! Do-it-yourself installation of an electrical outlet, wiring and further installation of lighting is possible provided that a distribution board has already been installed and configured by a professional (electrician) at the site or in the apartment. It is not recommended to collect it yourself, without special education - it is life-threatening.

Installing a wall socket

What you need:

socket
electrical wires (you should choose a cross-section of at least 2 sq. mm.)
socket box

So, after choosing a location for the outlet and turning off the current, we proceed directly to installation:

We place the distance from the floor 30–100 cm. Mark the installation location with a pencil. We calculate the distance from the distribution board to the designated location and determine how many meters of wiring are needed.
We install a special attachment in the drill chuck for drilling holes, corresponding to the type of wall and work with electrical fittings.

Tip: when there is no special attachment, and a single installation of the device is planned, use the following method: using the marked sketch of the socket (more precisely, the socket box), drill holes directly on the wall, and knock out the socket using a chisel and hammer.

Turn on the drill, if necessary, take an extension cord that is suitable in power for the electric drill you are using.
Put on protection (goggles and, if possible, a respirator) and drill the required hole in the wall.
Make a groove for the electrical wire. Use a grinder with a suitable disc or make a groove using a chisel and hammer.
Then the socket box (through which the wiring is pulled out) is installed and fixed in the finished hole.

Tip: measure the wiring generously, as a short length complicates the process of connecting to an outlet. And if in the future there is a need to replace an item, then the stock will make the work easier. Moreover, sometimes the wires burn out and, having a spare, the old ones are simply cut off. Without a supply, replacing a socket becomes much more difficult.

The wire laid in the groove and all chips and depressions in the area of the socket box are covered with plaster (alabaster). We wait until it dries completely.

The first part of the work is completed.

Connection

Open the junction box. Then the electrical wire is connected using terminal clamps.

Modern methods of connecting wires using terminals and terminal blocks:

Connection methods using terminals

Important: the thicker the IPL, the more the cable costs. But you shouldn't skimp on wiring. A weak (cheap) wire can burn out, and replacing it will take an impressive amount of money and a lot of effort.

Remove the cover from the outlet. Loosen or remove the screws that will clamp the wires. Insert the ends of the wire (after stripping them in advance) and fasten tightly with the screws.
The screws of the installed legs are loosened and brought together to the body of the socket, which is inserted and secured (in the process of tightening the screws) into the socket box. The legs, spreading to the sides, are fixed to the socket and hold the structure in the wall.
It is recommended to ensure that all wiring is connected.

Turn on the power and test the operation.

Types of sockets and socket boxes and rules for their installation

Along with standard power sockets and switches, new items and variations of these items have appeared on the market, differing significantly from their predecessors. But the basic principle of their performance has not changed.

Sockets

Each device consists of:

contacts;
bases (pads);
protective housing.

A contact is a key element through which current is transmitted from the cable to the contacts of the connected device.

Sockets have three wires: phase, neutral and ground. In the old ones there are only two of them - phase and zero.

The socket block is the base on which the contacts and the protective housing are held. When the socket is built-in, there are fastenings on the block for its installation in the socket box.

Housing - outer cover with holes for the plug.

Two types of devices:

Outdoor;
Internal (in the wall).

The process for connecting them is the same. The only difference is in the way they are mounted on the wall. For devices with closed wiring, they take a special box into which the socket itself is inserted.

Socket boxes and their installation

These items are divided into two types:

The first one is under plaster. A hole is drilled either in concrete or brick. A socket box is installed in this mounting hole on plaster or alabaster.
If there is any wall covering, that is, plasterboard, or MDF panels, or plastic, and so on, trimmers built under the gypsum board are used. The diameter of the drilled holes is 68 mm.

Also, for a certain line of electrical fittings (sockets, switches), special trimmers are used, supplied directly by the manufacturer of the fittings. For example, the company ANAM - specialized trimmers.

Outdoor socket

It is used for open installation of electrical wires. Especially when wood trim is used indoors, it is the outdoor device that is safer. The openness of the wires makes it possible to quickly find possible problems and prevent a fire. The socket itself is simply screwed to the wall.

If mounting on wood, then:

be sure to use a special paronite gasket between the device and the material;
then fixing the wiring to the terminals and placing a decorative cover on the base of the device.

The assembly is ready.

Internal socket

The installation process is a little different. For fixing, you will need a special box to install the device into. It is inserted into a hole in the wall and secured with screws.

When the wall is made of plasterboard, then:

choose special boxes with ears.

Boxes can be metal (old version) or plastic (modern standards). Their diameter may vary. When choosing, take this point into account, since modern sockets are most often sold under plastic.

Unscrew the cover from the socket and install it in the box.
The device is secured with screws of the spacer legs.
Connect the wires.
The structure is closed with a decorative overlay.

Important! Fixing the screws should be done diligently. If the contact is weak, the socket will become hot during use.

Then turn on the electricity and check the device.

Replacing a built-in socket

If it is necessary to replace an element, the old socket is first dismantled.

Dismantling

Installation

After all dismantling steps have been completed, the installation of a new outlet begins.

First action. The wires that were removed earlier are reduced to the required length. It ranges from 15 to 20 cm. Then one and a half cm is cleared of insulation.

Second act. The wires should be connected to the device.

Third. The wires are bent, the socket box is placed in the workplace and secured with claws or screws (depending on the model).

Fourth act. The outer frame is installed and the panel is screwed on.

Fifth. After all the steps have been completed, the electricity supply is turned on to check the operation of the device.

Installation of sockets in any apartment

Power calculation

For example, the apartment has: a refrigerator, TV, washing machine and laptop. Their total power is about 3.5 kW. It is planned to add an air conditioning system, an electric stove, a PC, and replace the lighting circuit with a more advanced one. Energy use will increase. To avoid having to change the wiring, you should calculate everything right away. The wiring data can be viewed in the table:

Bathroom Standards

For spaces with high humidity, some features stand out when installing electrical fittings:

sockets are not mounted less than half a meter from grounded parts: sinks, pipes, batteries, fittings;
plug sockets are installed 50–100 cm from the floor;
“above-plinth” devices (in which the sockets are slammed shut after the plugs are pulled out) are mounted no closer than 30 cm from the floor.

Important! In damp rooms, a hidden wiring method is used.

Installation of sockets and switches in a panel house

The panel house has the following features:

The wiring is done using the open method, and accordingly, with this type of installation, the sockets stick out from the wall and there is no need to drill anything.
Closed wiring. In a panel house (brick too) the concrete is strong and in order to carry out hidden wiring it is necessary to make grooves (preferably with a wall cutter). For internal wiring, it is important to lay the cable in a corrugated structure so that it is not subject to dynamic changes in the building (if the building sags or moves).

Important! Without corrugation, if the wall moves, the core may break, which will lead to a short circuit and non-functional condition of the socket and switches.

Laying internal wiring requires grooved walls. Electrical cables placed in a corrugated hose are laid in grooves. They are then placed in the mounting box.

It is important to know! Corrugated cables must be removed at least 10–12 cm.

The boxes are fixed with gypsum mortar. Then you need to give the solution time to dry and continue the process of connecting the electrical fittings.

Installation of sockets and switches

Connection diagram for socket and switch

With proper installation and with the correct cables (if the wiring is already there, done by a professional, and you just decided to mount the outlet yourself), if the electrician did everything correctly, then:

A white cable is inserted into the socket on which “L” is written, which corresponds to the concept of phase and power.
A blue cable is inserted into the socket marked with the letter “N”; it is called zero. And, accordingly, if there is a grounding loop, then a yellow or yellow-green cable “I_ _” is inserted into the grounded socket.

To connect a regular or two-key switch, you need to assemble a box. White (wire) from it to the letter L. If the box is twisted incorrectly, the colors may not match.

Important! In some lines, instead of white, brown is a phase. Then you need to do it according to the instructions included with the purchase.

Colors and meanings: blue is always 0. Yellow is earth. Sometimes there is a black cable instead of yellow.

How to connect a socket, switch and light bulb is indicated in the instructions for these items. By following the electrical diagram, the process goes quickly. Typically the circuit comes with a socket or switch.

Connection diagram for a two-button switch with a socket

Connection diagram for switch socket and light bulb

Installing a double socket

Installing a double socket is a little different. The main difference between double sockets and single sockets is the ability to connect two electrical appliances at once. There are 2 types of doubles: prefabricated and stationary.

Installation of a double stationary type socket is carried out according to the scheme described above. You just need to connect the cables to different plates. If this condition is not met, there is a possibility of a short circuit when current is supplied.

The prefabricated type of double sockets is a little more difficult to install. In addition to the prepared tools, you will need to get a piece of additional wire. Its length should correspond to that connected to the undercut:

If the device has 3 wires (one ground and two power), it needs 3 additional ones. The latter should be pulled between the trimmers. The one that has the main wire output is connected via a pair of cables to the terminals - from the auxiliary and the main.

In other cutters the connection is standard. Installation of the triple socket and block is identical.

Installing a power outlet

The peculiarity of power sockets is that they are almost always installed for an electric stove. They have their own characteristics and nuances:

such an outlet is connected to a separate line coming from the panel;
a necessary condition is the ability of the line to withstand a load of at least 40 amperes;
a distinctive feature of the wiring is its significant thickness;

Power device - capable of withstanding more powerful loads.

Installing a power outlet is as follows. The socket is attached where the power cable exits. This is almost always near the stove area. Fastening occurs in all holes with dowels. The socket protection must be at least IP20. Insulation and connection are performed using twisting and soldering. For proper connection, you should pay enough attention to the colors. This will allow you to connect ground, neutral and phase without errors.

Video on the topic

From time to time, every owner needs to replace or install an outlet. Electrical devices surround us every day; the guarantee of their safety and the possibility of safe operation directly depends on the proper connection of this mechanism. We will tell you how to deal with this yourself in this article, and for a clear example, you can study numerous photos of connecting an outlet.

There are quite a lot of types of sockets; they can be classified depending on their design or purpose. To better understand this, let’s consider these types in more detail.

Features of sockets: their designs and purposes

Before buying a socket, let’s first look at the first option, what types of designs there are:

Surface-mounted sockets are used when there is external wiring and are installed on the wall itself. Installing this type of device is not difficult, since you do not need to make a large recess in the wall. The disadvantage is that the structure protrudes noticeably from the wall; this option is not always convenient.

Built-in (hidden). From the name you can guess that the entire mechanism is located inside the wall in a prepared hole along with the connected wires.

Sockets with screw terminal clamping method. This version of the electrical wires is installed in the middle of the corresponding plates and secured with a screw intended for this purpose. The structure is considered the safest and popular among consumers.

Key clip for sockets. Here the contacts are fixed thanks to a springy terminal reminiscent of keys. By pressing it, the springs move apart, which allows free access to the contacts; when released, the plates fix the contacts.

The purpose of sockets also varies; let’s take a closer look at several existing types:

The socket with grounding is equipped with special antennae, to which the grounding wire is attached, this allows you to protect the device body from breaking current.

Closed type of sockets. Often used by parents in their children's rooms so that the small child does not have access to dangerous electricity. They can be equipped with protective curtains or covers.

Socket with plug eject function. The housing includes a button, when pressed, the plug is easily pushed out. Useful if you often use various electrical appliances, for example in the kitchen.

A device with a timer will allow you to regulate the operating time of the electrical appliance. The timer is installed immediately with the entire structure.

Sockets for outdoors and bathrooms require increased protection from moisture and dirt; they are usually equipped with a cover for safety.

Step-by-step instructions on how to connect an outlet

All types of sockets are connected according to almost the same general scheme. The first thing to do is turn off the power to the electrical panel. Be sure to check whether there is no current in the device with an indicator or simply by turning on any electrical appliance.

Next, you can begin to dismantle the unnecessary socket, remove the cover along with the socket, and disconnect the wires from the old core. The socket box should be cleared of debris and the wires free; if you do not have a socket box, we recommend purchasing a new one.

Connecting the wires to the outlet with your own hands will not be difficult anymore, the main thing is to approach the process carefully. Before direct connection, the wires are prepared, leaving approximately 10 cm of the cable, after removing the protective braiding and stripping the ends to 2 cm. Connect the cable to the prepared working socket.

Method of installing a grounded outlet

It should be noted that in recent years it has been popular to connect outlets with grounding because they are safer. This type is easy to distinguish externally due to the presence of three metal contacts. Designs are also divided into internal and external types of nests. The peculiarity of each of them is special grounding terminals, which first come into contact when turned on, and only after that the wire contacts (phase and neutral) enter the device itself.

The connection is divided into several stages:

turn off the power;
A tester will help separate the wires from each other and determine the phase, zero and ground. As a rule, they differ in color;
“zero” is determined to the left terminal, “phase” is placed on the opposite, right side, and “ground” is located in the center or below;
If possible, the wires are insulated, after which the socket cover can be screwed on.

Connecting circuits with your own hands is not difficult, but before the connection begins, it is important to study all the nuances. Before purchasing a new outlet, carefully analyze which type is best for you, depending on where you plan to install it.

In your work, you will need a number of tools - a building level to check whether the device is installed correctly, a new working socket, suitable screwdrivers, a construction knife - to insulate the ends of the wires, pliers and a screwdriver with an indicator to check the voltage, and also, if necessary, electrical tape.

When you have everything you need on hand, the only thing left to do is small. There are several options for connection schemes:

Sequential - sockets are connected at the same level one after another;
Parallel - when a separate wire from the distribution box is used for each mechanism. This method is more reliable than the previous one, thanks to which it is possible to connect powerful electrical devices;
Mixed option. They can be connected in both ways at the same time, this significantly saves the number of wires, and as a result, money.

Another socket connection method is color difference

To avoid inconvenience in work, the method of connecting wires by color is used.

“Zero” is usually indicated by bluish-blue, less often black, the number of shades of the “phase” is greater, so you should be careful, first of all we look for white, red, maybe brownish shades, “earth” can be colored yellow or green color or contain these two colors at the same time.

Photo of the process of connecting the socket

One of the most important household jobs is installing sockets and switches. And at first glance, it would seem that everything is simple. But some difficulties may arise here. First of all, the device must be safe for children. In addition, electromagnetic interference can often occur, which must be suppressed by installing special filters. If you install the outlet correctly, then such filters will not be needed.

Important nuances

When installing sockets and switches, you should follow some installation rules. Only if they are followed can safety and high-quality installation be ensured. Before starting work, you must turn off the electricity in the entire building or apartment. That is, after turning off the light, all operations are done, such as knocking out the grooves, drilling holes and holes, laying the cable and connecting it to the outlet. Only then is electricity supplied to check the functionality of the system.

Each wire is checked with a phase indicator before connection. When performing installation work, You need to remember that tension can appear at any time, so checking the wire early for voltage is very important. It is also important not to touch exposed wires during installation.

In cases where there is a sudden electric shock, it should be remembered that safety primarily depends on the speed and reaction of the worker . In this case, a person can receive the following bruises:

in 0.2 seconds (average reaction speed) - causes discomfort;
in 1 second - trembling, pain and chills, which may intensify without timely medical assistance and require hospitalization;
within 10 seconds - fibrillation of the heart muscle, fainting (without hospitalization it usually ends in death).

In this regard, it is necessary to react in a timely manner not only to the person who has been shocked, but also to those around him. It’s better to immediately pull the worker over. But you need to remember that in this way you can take part of the blow.

Design features of the device

Before installing the socket and switch yourself, you should understand their design. This will help you avoid making many mistakes while working. Structurally, the socket consists of three key elements: the contact block assembly, the front cover and the socket box. The last two perform only a decorative function, and only the block is related to the electrical part.

The block, in turn, consists of the following components:

When choosing sockets, you need to pay attention to the type of legs. Movable ones are more difficult to install, but they make it possible to adjust the position of the housing in any direction, that is, you can mount the device exactly on the wall. In addition, you should give preference to paws with two teeth, as they are more reliable. Single-tooth structures will loosen faster.

The wires can be attached to the contacts with screws or have their own contacts. The last option is more reliable. In the first case, the wires must be exposed, carefully worked with solder and then tightened tightly onto the bolts.

Terminals can also be of two types - screw and brushes. The first ones need to be tightened with screws, and the second wires are simply inserted into them, and the mechanism automatically fixes them. But the so-called brushes also have their drawbacks. It will not be possible to redo them a second time, since the wires will have to be pulled out by force, and the brushes will break in the process. Screw connections should be done with cold solder before twisting.

Types of devices

Both sockets and switches can be single, double or triple. But the latter are not as popular as the first two options. They are combined into one array, have a common cover and socket box. Socket group - several sockets installed in one row. To install a module (array) of sockets or a socket group, a regular socket box is used.

In addition, devices may have other additions. For example, connectors for connecting the Internet, television, landline phone, setting a timer, a sensor that turns off the positive contact when you touch the socket, and the like. The socket or switch is usually mounted in a special mounting box, which is prematurely installed in a hole made in the wall.

Lifesaver model

A simple and convenient modern model of an overhead socket. It has many advantages, but there are also disadvantages.

The lifesaver model allows you to:

European analogues

If we compare the factor of consumer needs, then the “lifesaver” model is not the best option. The opposite of these characteristics is a device with retractable sockets. It is very quickly gaining popularity in the European Union.

Although, on the other hand, such a device has a low level of safety, since due to the installation of the entire device in the wall, cases of fire have become more frequent. Although the socket is convenient, since it does not spoil the interior of the room, and if necessary, it is pulled out, but this is more of a marketing ploy than a useful function.

Safety regulations

Previously, the installation height of sockets and switches was fixed and mandatory for everyone. That is, it was necessary to install the socket at a distance of 80 cm from the floor, and the switch - 160 cm. Today, such standards are recommended, but not mandatory. According to European standards, the installation height of the socket is 30 cm from the floor, and the minimum is 25 cm. If installed at a shorter distance, there is a possibility of a short circuit or fire while washing the floor. These standards are already popular in the CIS countries.

On the other hand, it is possible to install sockets below, but only if there is an emergency power shutdown system. Even if a short circuit occurs, there will be no consequences in the form of a fire, since the system will completely cut off the electricity supply. In this case, the number of sockets in the apartment does not matter. For children's rooms, on the contrary, it is necessary to install sockets high from the floor, about 170 cm. This is necessary so that children cannot reach the sockets. It is also necessary to equip sensors to turn off the device when touched.

On the other hand, some rules for arranging sockets and terminating wires must be followed. They reduce the likelihood of an emergency several times and also facilitate troubleshooting. Firstly, you need to remember that electricians, when installing sockets, always remove them from the window side. If the position relative to the window is ambiguous, then the phase should be on the left side.

Secondly, you cannot attach the shortest possible wires directly to the terminals. This is due to the need from time to time to cut off part of the wire, strip the end of the remaining one and reattach it to the terminals, since it burns out and becomes deformed over time. When connecting, the cable is passed under the contact group.

If you run the wires under the block, you should also take into account the fact that the plus and protection must be circled on one side, and the minus on the other. In this case, two wires can be fixed into each terminal. It should be remembered that stationary lamps or other consumers of this type cannot be directly plugged into sockets. This is contrary to general safety rules.

Installing switches is almost the same as installing electrical sockets. The same installation methods are used, they are mounted in a box, and there is a socket box. If the switch is single-pole, then you need to install the wire only in the phase gap. It is absolutely impossible to do this on a minus. Finding the plus on the switch is easy. It is also located according to all the rules on the left side.

Previously, a well-known trick was used when, in order to save money, any wires were connected to the switch, and the cut plus was left in the distribution box under the ceiling. Today such a reception is unacceptable.

Required tools and materials

As with any other similar work, before starting it is necessary to prepare all the tools and materials that may be needed during the execution process. The durability of the structure will depend on the quality of the materials, and how easily it can be assembled together will depend on the tools.

In order to install a socket or switch, you need to prepare the following:

Sometimes electrical tape can be used as a damper, that is, a winding where it passes through various holes, rather than as insulation.

First you need to understand some techniques for removing insulation. For example, professional electricians remove it in their own way. Side cutters are used to cut through the wire insulation. This should not be done all the way; you cannot cut through the copper part and then pull it to the side.

In this matter, the main thing is to get better. Professional craftsmen perform such an operation “blindly”, and the possibility of formation of bites is very unlikely. It's a different matter for novice electricians, who get stuck in most attempts.

It is also important to understand the general principles of wire splicing. You need to do this operation if you need to move the socket to another location. According to safety regulations, splicing wires is not recommended. But if you need to install an outlet in a certain place, then all that remains is to break up the decorative trim. Therefore, sometimes you can neglect the general rules.

When installing in a concrete wall, you need to know the thickness of the finish. The edge of the socket box should be flush (parallel) with the wall. The device is mounted in drywall using special socket boxes with sliding supports.

Installing an outlet or switch in the house is not difficult even for an inexperienced novice master. The main thing is to adhere to a clear work algorithm and listen to the advice of electricians. Here you need to do the work carefully, and the result will not be long in coming. At the same time, the house will never smell of burning from burnt insulation. It is also worth installing only high-quality equipment and using professional tools.