We do spoilers. How to make a spoiler on a car with your own hands: successful elements and a master class on their manufacture
It all started with a trip to the auto store, I noticed a list of spoilers of various shapes, made of fiberglass and at applicable prices (47-67 dollars) and, of course, I liked 1.
I leave a deposit, go out, try it on in a car ... bad luck, the length of the spoiler turned out to be 10 centimes. less desirable. Disappointingly, although willingly, and now various ideas begin to climb. 1 was such - take this spoiler, saw it, arrange an insert of 10 centimes. , the minimum amount of time spent, although another $ 7 is added to the price of the spoiler, as a result we get 74 (the vending spoiler cost 67 rubles) plus another coloring. The second idea is to arrange it personally, with all this offhand we get the cost of about 24-35 dollars. plus the shape of the spoiler can certainly be arranged to your taste. Because my work schedule allows me to calmly go about my own business and to face a certain thrift, I dared to take on this business.
Regrettably, my first step was made in the direction of garbage containers, this happens as a result of actually reading, it is actually possible to take polyurethane foam sealant and force out the form from it, I went to the shopping center. I read on the can, the actual size of the blown foam is within 20 liters. , thinking how much I would need for a spoiler, I took 1 can ...
A spoiler (from the English to spoil - to spoil) in a car is an element (or a set of elements) that changes the aerodynamic properties of the car body, redirecting air flows. In modern passenger cars, the use of spoilers is dictated by the manufacturers' marketing calculations and practically does not affect the technical characteristics of cars, only giving them a formidable appearance of their sports "brothers". While in sports, the aerodynamics of the car is on the same level as the performance of the engine.
I laid printed publications on the floor and let's blow a blank out of the foam sealant. It turns out that, in fact, it is written there - "foam output 20 liters." in practice, only 5. I also needed to buy a couple of the largest, on which 40 liters are registered. I blew it, as prescribed in the attached memo, the best result is a maximum of 10 liters. In addition, the greatest defect is that the more you heat the balloon, the larger the pores in the frozen mass after that; reached 5 centimeters. Having spent 5 cylinders, I spat on this matter and came to the conclusion that if it is necessary to sculpt a little, then the reception is good and it is better that the cylinder is cool, and all this was done not in the steam room. So I threw 18 bucks in the trash.
I had to take the foam; It would not be superfluous to note that, at first, I specifically tried to adopt it, although then I had already categorically abandoned this idea due to the great amount of garbage, which is perfectly electrified and later sticks to everything.
Finally, a sheet of foam plastic 1x1 meter 5 cm wide was bought (the truth is really 4.5 cm, although this is so, trifles). Obliquely cut out the blade of the wing, otherwise there was not enough width of the sheet. Then I put aside the production of the spoiler and set about the most common thing - a stand for a number. Everyone understands that the actual Japanese numbers are the most square and smaller than domestic ones, as a result of this, our numbers do not look in the places provided for by them.
I cut out the blank, bought epoxy, although not the same, actually in syringes at 1.5-5 dollars per 30 ml, but in a cardboard box. The number and manufacturer are different, although the box is 1. I did not have fiberglass, where to get it at that time, I could not know. And here we needed dilapidated shirts "under silk". As they say, after two or three days I glued this stand, a few more days were spent on grinding and painting. I took the paint in cans of 2.4 dollars, covered it with varnish on top (Korean is spelled out).
This one worked out:
Further, no, not a spoiler, but a lip, it is easier to manufacture (at least the one that came out. I took off the bumper, turned it over, and glued a blank from foam, which was weakly adhered to the bumper on silicone auto-sealant. I tore off the blank and let's give it a shape. Then I wrapped it in plastic bags. I took away the final tights from my friend, pulled them on and smeared them with epoxy. After drying 2 layers of tights, I took out the blank from the sponge (so that it pulled out just the bags and are necessary, epoxy does not stick to them). irrevocably polymerizes only after a few days.
She, of course, seems to be tough every other day, although this is sometimes the case (my lip has dried for more than a week). Wanting it entirely depends on the number of hardener, rather than more of it, the sooner it polymerizes, because the most fragile with all this comes out, and it is much better to add a plasticizer for elasticity. Then, the glued lip is not yet high-strength, as a result of this, I again took the shirt and glued it inside, 2 layers. It took 2 shirts on the lip. For stability in building materials, I purchased a reinforcing mesh and glued it to it. And after that was sanding, priming, painting.
A few tips: practice has shown that the lip is not glued from fiberglass, when hit it just crumbles like a cookie, the reinforcing mesh does not help :(, as a result of this, be sure to look for fiberglass or carbon fiber, otherwise all your work will go down the drain after a not very big blow. The glue was applied with a brush , it is perfectly washed in a solvent in the following days, although it is cheaper and in the absence of aroma it is possible to wash it in a stream of warm water.Do not immediately prepare a lot of glue, you may not have time to spend it all (I had the largest portions of 200 ml). stuck to you, often touch the water tap in the dining room to remove electricity.
I recommend sticking at least 3 layers of fiberglass (on the spoiler, 4, two layers of tights and a mesh were possible). Of course, not many at once, but at intervals that are important even for not very large polymerization of the resin. By the way, epoxy glue specifically polymerizes, but does not dry. In addition, this process is accelerated a couple of times at the highest temperature (almost up to 120 C, if I'm not mistaken), as a result of this, the main thing for him is time and temperature.
After gluing the spoiler, I threw the electric wires in it again, because in addition to the stop bar, I also wanted side lights. After that, I skipped the puttying operation, and besides, it’s too long to remove the planes with a primer alone, moreover, an excessively thick layer comes out. Well, as they say, having suffered for almost a month with grinding, I started painting. Here, as they say, 2 options, give to specialists or paint it personally. Naturally, professionals will come out much better, although if everything is done by myself, then why not paint it. Bought 3 cans of dark paint and painted.
The glass for the stop bar was made of epoxy resin. It is better, of course, to find a bar of a suitable volume from plexiglass or plex (something illusory and processed with a file), although I could not find one.
The car after installing the newest spoiler:
Styrofoam - fit into 1 sheet, besides, it remains = 2.3 dollars.
Fiberglass - it took approximately 2 meters at 1.8 dollars = 3.6 dollars.
Fastenings and welding - scrap metal and air from their people for beer = $ 1.
Shirts - wanted to throw away, the hand was not raised = 0.
LEDs 12 mm - 2x7 = 0.5 USD
Neon lights in the spoiler = 10 dollars *.
Paint - it took 2 cylinders = 4.7 dollars.
Primer, 3 containers = $6.5
Epoxy glue - I won’t say for sure, although approximately 2 kg (let 8 bottles of 2 dollars each) \u003d 16
USD
Foam sealant \u003d 18 dollars *.
Electric wires - 2 m. = 0.3 dollars.
Chinese brushes - 3 pieces = 0.5 dollars.
Grid = $0.7
Sandpaper = 3.4 dollars.
Artem comments:
Is such a homemade spoiler for a car needed only for beauty, or does it really help with something on a trip? Well, for example, it saves gasoline.
Paul comments:
It really helps with rear-wheel drive, but it doesn’t allow the rear of the car to splatter.
Alexey comments:
Scribe description, from the series "Google translator" drives. If only the text was checked and edited in addition to the photos.
Kolya comments:
Alexei, do you want to have a check or go? The description is normal, everything is clear, but if you need grammar, go to school to teach dictations!
And we are craftsmen here who do things with their own hands, and not grammatical theorists.
Many motorists, having installed “something” similar to a football goal on their swallow, believe that now their car has been pumped.
The task of the wing is to improve aerodynamic qualities, to increase traction and make the car maneuverable.
The spoiler will be produced on the model by constructing a rigid frame. In the future, sculpting the details according to the template. All actions require about 10 days with a sufficient amount of free time and skillful hands. You can come up with a design or spy on existing cars.
Template making
After drying, special attention must be paid so that the frame does not deform or warp. If everything is fine, you can start sculpting the matrix.
The advantage of making a spoiler in this way is that the upper part of the model is first created, and then the bottom is molded.
To form the matrix, a glass mat with several thicknesses is required. Glass wool is used to strengthen the surface of the glass mat.
Spoiler layout customization
After the resins have cured, you should carefully inspect the wing for flaws. You can begin to form the side racks, correct the corners of the model.
We glue the bottom part with fiberglass and make holes for the bolts. The bolts will be placed as close as possible to the model, to tightly press the half-forms of the matrix.
The thickness of the plastic of the two half-moulds is approximately 6-7 mm. We cut off the excess with a grinder and clean the edges so that there are no splinters.
Half-forms are extremely difficult to open, here you have to suffer.
If plasticine remains on the matrix, it must be removed. This can easily be done with an industrial hair dryer.
Using a wide brush, apply a separating layer to the matrix. We form the part with the help of gelcoat. If this is neglected, there is a high probability that the structure of the glass fiber will appear during painting.
When using an aluminum powder gelcoat, be aware of its shortcomings. Paraffin, as part of polyester resins, protrudes to the surface during polymerization, which leads to the need for sanding.
Let's prepare the materials for further work: we will cut the pieces of glass mat and mix Aerosil with polyester resins into a thick slurry.
Formation
The dried Gelcoat is covered with polyester resin and covered with glass mat, on the first layer it is better to use a 3-layer mat. Another layer of resin. Using a brush and a roller with a transverse notch, carefully nail the glass mat to the gelcoat.
The excess edges of the part should be cut off with a sharp knife until the resin has hardened. This will save time on further processing. We remove the spoiler halves from the matrix and process the edges with sandpaper.
Bonding parts
On the edges of the parts of the spoiler, laid in the matrix, lay out a thick layer of strips of previously prepared slurry. When in contact, the parts are firmly glued together.
final stage
We take out the finished wing and carry out the final processing: grinding and preparing for painting. 
Eventually
We made a spoiler from improvised materials. We got a matrix that can be used repeatedly. Having mastered the method of manufacturing matrices, you can make not only tuning parts, but also other body parts.
For sure, one of the easiest ways to decorate an ordinary car from the outside, giving it the style of a racing car, is to make a spoiler. And it does not matter that the automaker did not foresee this initially. If you are friends with your own hands, then this problem can be solved by yourself.
In this article, you will not find thoughts on how to install a spoiler on a station wagon (for example, a VAZ 2109), on a Gazelle, and even more so on a truck. We will talk about the spoiler as a tuning element that will decorate any sedan. However, this information will be useful for those who want to decorate any other car.
Of course, the main purpose of the spoiler is to improve the aerodynamics of the car. How is this achieved? The wing of an aircraft, due to its design, forms a lifting force.
The spoiler is a wing, as you can see in the photo. That is, it is designed so that the air flow presses the rear of the car to the ground. This is what improves aerodynamics.
In view of this, it is clear that a spoiler made without calculations is just an element of pretentious style. And if you make a spoiler without calculations, then it can even spoil the aerodynamics.
Therefore, the first advice for those who want to make a spoiler with their own hands is to find a good engineer who would help in the design. The rest is a matter of technique.
How to make a regular spoiler with racks according to ready-made calculations will be described later.
Frame preparation
So, at this stage, we know the dimensions and design of the spoiler. The first thing we need to do is a metal frame. To do this, you need a sheet of galvanized iron. This material is well suited for its strength.
If you do not have experience and equipment for cutting and other work with metal, it is better to contact an organization where there are craftsmen and the appropriate equipment.
The spoiler struts on the side should resemble the Latin letter L. If you decide to make a lip spoiler, then its design will be somewhat different.
The thickness of galvanized metal for the manufacture of the frame is 1.5 mm. Installing the spoiler on the car will be done using bolt mounts. The bolt holes in the spoiler struts are 6 mm.
Working with foam
As a material for increasing the volume, we can take foam. Perhaps it does not have the required rigidity. However, its price is more than suitable for those who are not particularly interested in the aerodynamic properties of the spoiler. The weight of the foam is also good news. As a last resort, if you are seriously concerned about the choice of any material listed in this article, this question is best addressed to a professional engineer.
So, from foam, we need to make forms with which we will glue the frame. We cut the foam plastic with a clerical knife with a large blade, for emphasis we use the building level. Another advantage of foam as a material is its ease of processing. Using ordinary sandpaper, we adjust the thickness and shape. However, do not get carried away, otherwise you will have to buy a new piece of material.
The foam parts can be processed after they have been glued to the frame.
Video - cutting foam.
Working with fiberglass
We buy polyester resin, glass mat and gelcoat, putty, primer, native color paint, varnish. Then:
- We put a layer of gelcoat on the foam. It needs to be sanded and then covered with layers of polyester resin and glass mat.
- We glue the surface of the foam with fiberglass (or as some call it, glass carbonate). This must be done in two or more layers. The first layer will be made of glass mat with a density of 300, and the second - with a density of 600. We glue each next layer after the previous one has gone through the polymerization process. The final layer is again covered with polyester resin.
- Make sure that there are no air bubbles under the fiberglass layer when gluing. For greater reliability, you can walk along the surface of the glued layer with a notched roller.
Prices for 1 p. meter of glass mat 300 are about 100 rubles. Glass mat 600 - about 150 rubles. for 1 running meter Fiberglass can also be used to bond wing parts.
If you want to save time drying glued fiberglass, you can use a building dryer.
Attention! At this stage, LEDs (or stoplights) are installed, wires are laid to power them (of course, if you planned to equip the spoiler with lighting fixtures).
To make the surface of the spoiler even and smooth, it can be puttied, sanded and primed, and finally painted and varnished. Be sure to check with the seller whether the purchased materials are compatible with those that you already use.
Gypsum matrix
If you want to make a copy of the finished spoiler, then you can use plaster as a fill material. We put a spoiler in a foam box, and then fill it with liquid plaster. After it hardens, the mold for making the spoiler is ready. It remains only to saw the cast in two and extract the original from which we removed the mold.
We cover the surface of the cast with cling film. A sheet of galvanized iron can also be used as a frame.
Pour plaster into the mold to create a new spoiler.
When the spoiler is ready, we put layers of fiberglass on it. It remains to putty, sand, prime, paint, varnish.
These are just some of the ways to make a spoiler with your own hands. There are other options, such as a spoiler from a newspaper, as shown in the video below.
Many motorists believe that the highlight of a car is a spoiler.
Thanks to him, the car looks stylish and original, as it correlates with the exterior of the car, determining its appearance, and having a bearing on the design. This is its aesthetic function. A synonym for a spoiler is a wing. It looks like a football goal.
In general, this is an additional element for a car that performs a number of positive functions. Firstly, it improves the dynamic properties of the car, radically changing its appearance.
It is also necessary to increase the stability of the machine and achieve optimal control, being at the same time a certain load on the front and rear of the body. Secondly, the spoiler changes the characteristics and movement of the airflow.
These are its main features that make it so popular. The presence of a spoiler on a car indicates that the car takes turns more confidently, eliminating the possibility of damage during skidding, increasing braking efficiency. It also eliminates the ingress of water and all sorts of dirt on the car windows.
It is quite capable of fulfilling the tasks assigned to it when the speed of the car reaches 80-90 km / h. Mount the spoiler either on the back door or on the trunk. True, there are other options.
1. Types of spoilers
Spoilers are of different types. They are created by hand, however, in most cases they are manufactured at the factory. Then this is mass production, which concerns a specific model of car. The spoiler is installed on the car by the manufacturer.
It is customary to distinguish between the following types of spoilers:side, those that are mounted on the bumper, there are roof spoilers and a rear spoiler. Side spoilers are door sills. In the people it is customary to call them thresholds-overlays. Spoilers that are designed to be mounted on the bumper are popularly called bumper skirts. They are usually installed at the bottom.
Those spoilers that are installed on the roof of a car are usually found on crossovers and hatchbacks. They are attached to the top of the back door. The rear spoiler is installed on sedans, on the trunk lid.
There is such a kind of spoiler, which is installed on hatchbacks, where the back of the car has a gentle angle. For example, this VAZ-2108. Here it is possible to install a rear spoiler below the rear window. All of them differ in design and material for the manufacture of the spoiler.
2. How to choose a spoiler?
In the process of choosing a spoiler, it is necessary to take into account its functional purpose. The fact is that his right choice can affect the aerodynamics of the car body, while being an ornament.
Branded spoilers have better characteristics, so you need to buy a good model for the appropriate price. Spoilers should be installed by professionals.
3. How to make a spoiler yourself?
It turns out that the spoiler can be created by hand. This requires durable material and other improvised means.
- foam, the size of which is 100x100 cm, and the thickness is 5 cm;
Paint that matches the color of the car - several cans are needed;
Sheet of iron, the thickness of which is not more than 1.5 mm;
Primer and putty - three jars;
Epoxy glue within two kilograms;
Brushes for applying glue;
Ruler;
Sandpaper;
Carbon fiber or fiberglass;
neon lights;
LEDs;
The very principle of creating spoilers is the same. Its specificity of work and functional purpose correlates with the right choice.
Brief step by step instructions
1) First you need to use the foam to cut out the "blade" of the wing. It is better to do this diagonally, because in this way it is necessary to keep within the dimensions.
2)
The next step is the manufacture of the mount. Plates are cut from a sheet of iron. Next, you need to drill three millimeter holes. The distance between them should be no more than 30 mm. At this stage of work, we bend the plate in the form of the Latin letter L, since this is how it is convenient to fasten.
Nuts with a diameter of 6 mm are welded into the base. Then they are carefully glued to the foam blanks and pasted over with carbon fiber (fiberglass). At least three layers of fiberglass must be applied. During pasting, it is necessary to maintain an interval. This is necessary in order for the glue to polymerize.
To speed up the process, heat the glue a little. There is no need to immediately prepare a lot of glue, since there will be no large consumption, and it will quickly harden. It washes well under running hot water. Styrofoam crumbs have the property of sticking. To remove static electricity, you must touch grounded objects.
3) In the event that you decide to make side lights or a brake light, you need to put the wires in the glued spoiler, installing LEDs and neon lights.
4) At this stage of work, we prime the surface. Then we apply putty, clean it with sandpaper and prepare for painting.
5) Painting the resulting workpiece.
6) The final stage is varnishing the spoiler. At the time of installation of each new part, a degreaser must be used.
7) The surface of the spoiler must be put in order.
8) We install the spoiler in the previously prepared place.
Basic materials
The spoiler is usually made of metal. Aluminum works well. Racks are usually made from it. Sometimes steel and carbon are practiced. Nowadays, metal spoilers are quite rare.
The most common material for its production is fiberglass. It is based on synthetic resin. It is cheap and very easy to handle. Its positive quality is good strength.
There are also spoilers made of ABS plastic. This is a cheap material. Use it as a result of mass production of spoilers. This plastic contains various impurities, so it is light. However, a plastic spoiler is not durable, as it becomes quite brittle over time.
Appeared not too long ago silicone spoilers and silicone polymers. They are popular due to ease of processing, good service life and excellent ductility.
It is customary to consider those spoilers that are made of carbon fiber to be very expensive. The weight of this material is small, the strength indicators are excellent. The manufacturing process is labor intensive. To create a bulge of the roof, a curved chipboard guide is used.
Coloring
To paint a spoiler, you do not need to have special skills. This can be done independently and even in a garage. Initially, the spoiler is prepared for painting by wiping with a solvent. Thus, the transport soil is removed. Next, sandpaper is used.
Thanks to it, the entire surface becomes matte. Particular attention must be paid to folds and corners. Then we apply primer and paint, checking the cleanliness of the surface before that. Paint is usually matched to the color of the car. It is applied in thin layers. There must be several. A high-quality coating requires five to six stages of painting, since after the first pass there will be no even layer.
When the paint is completely dry, the spoiler is varnished using a special spray can containing varnish. Check the spray can on the test surface, shaking before that for three minutes. Lacquer is also applied in the amount of approximately five layers, between which the drying of each subsequent one.
", many motorists, having installed something more like a football goal on their "basin", refer their "masterpieces" to the class of pumped cars.
But if you don’t like such a scenario and you decide to thoroughly approach this issue, I recommend this article to you as a guide with which you can create the right wing with your own hands, spending a minimum of money and your free time.
The task of the wing is to press the rear leading part, thus increasing traction, and improving.
My today's article is about how to make a rear spoiler with your own hands. , without resorting to the help of specialists, using improvised means and the material necessary for this.
The creation of the spoiler took place directly on the model, a rigid frame of the spoiler was constructed, after which the molding and gluing of the part took place according to the draft matrix (template). It takes about ten days for everything about everything, provided that the hands are straight and there is a shaft of time. The design was peeped at some of the models, to be honest, I don’t even know which one I saw something similar, but as it often happens, the hands simply reproduce some scraps or fragments from the memory, as a result something of its own comes out .. .
So let's go...
Do-it-yourself spoiler: template
First of all, I estimated the approximate width of the wing , then cut off the necessary piece of hardboard. The convexity of the roof was reproduced by means of a curved chipboard guide.
Then I cut out the lath in the form of an arc and screwed it to the bottom of the hardboard strip, after that, due to the load, the hardboard itself formed the outer surface of the future spoiler.
Helped to fix the wing in space - plasticine. With the help of adhesive tape, I sealed all the places where plasticine slides will be placed. With the help of thick layers, I formed the spoiler supports, then installed a chipboard wing strip on them. By the way, plasticine perfectly allows you to adjust the angle of inclination of the spoiler plane, as well as its symmetry.
The next stage is sawing out brackets from hardboard, which are installed on the sides of the wing close to the car body pillars. It remains to fix them with plasticine from the inside. The final stage of creating a template matrix was gluing the hardboard with fiberglass patches, it took several hours to polymerize (dry) the resin, after which my frame was ready.
The removal of the frame was successful - there were no deformations and distortions, the spoiler model was removed easily. Thus, I got the upper part of the future template, according to which it will be possible to sculpt the matrix and the wing.
The spoiler matrix that I created is divided into two parts. The whole charm of making a spoiler “quickly” lies in the fact that the first thing is to create the upper part of the model, remove the matrix from it and after that the bottom is added.
To form a spoiler matrix, you must: use a thin and thick glass mat. On top of the woolly glass mat, a layer of glass mat is laid to secure and strengthen the matrix.
The second stage of making a spoiler with your own hands is fitting the spoiler layout.
After the resin has hardened in order, the inverted wing can be turned over and check what happened inside. Then I built the symmetry and formed the side racks (supports).
Then I corrected the corners of the model - stuck it on and cleaned it together with the matrix flange.
I sealed the lower part of the spoiler with fiberglass and made holes for the bolts, they should be located as close as possible to the spoiler model, this will allow the half-forms of the matrix to snuggle better and tighter.
I cut the "hairy" edges of the matrix with a grinder, since the thickness of the plastic consisting of 2 half-forms has a thickness of about 6-7 mm. At the end of trimming, the edges need to be cleaned a little, this will save you from unpleasant glass splinters.
It turned out to be extremely inconvenient to open the resulting spoiler matrix, I had to use a knife blade first. Im passed between the half-forms with light opening movements. After that, he inserted wedges and all kinds of chips into the resulting thin gap. Some time later, after not very pleasant manipulations, the half-forms of the matrix still open.
To clean the matrix from plasticine residues, I used plastic scrapers, after which I blew everything properly with a hot industrial hair dryer and removed the residues with a sponge.
The part is formed with the obligatory use of a gelcoat, it is not recommended not to use an external protective layer on the spoiler at all. The fact is that after staining, there is a possibility that the texture of the fiberglass will begin to show through. Also remember to apply a release coat of matrix and gelcoat using a wide brush.
I want to note that aluminum powder gelcoat is not without drawbacks, the main of which is the base of polyester resin for molding. Paraffin, which is part of this resin, during polymerization is able to rise to the surface of the gel ... When everything hardens, the gelcoat has to be lightly sanded.
While the gelcoat dries, there is time to cut the glass mat and dilute a thick "baland" consisting of aerosil and "polyester", this substance will be needed to fill the sharp corners of the matrix.
You can understand what contact molding is by looking at the example of my spoiler. The gelcoat is covered with polyester resin, then covered with glass mat. I make the first layer from the three hundredth. Then resin is applied over the surface of the glass mat, after which it is nailed to the gelcoat with a brush. To get rid of air bubbles, which are highly undesirable, use a special cross-notched roller or make your own.
I recommend trimming the edges of the freshly formed part using a sharp knife until the polyester resin has gone from a jelly-like state to a solid state. This is important because this seemingly insignificant detail saves a lot of time. The resulting halves of the spoiler must be removed from the matrix and the edges slightly modified with sandpaper.
Climax...
DIY spoiler- ready! In addition, in the process, I managed to create a matrix, according to which in the future I will be able to make more than one such, if necessary. The process of gluing the two halves is as follows: on the edges of the spoiler halves, which are installed in the half-forms of the matrix, strips of slurry consisting of aerosil and polyester resin are laid out in a small slide. When the two halves are put together, these strips of porridge are in contact, firmly gluing the two parts into one.
Now you can get the finished wing and proceed to the final stage: grinding the hardened porridge and preparing the spoiler surface for painting.
Well, something like this ... From now on, you know how to make a spoiler with your own hands, moreover, now you can create matrices and templates yourself, followed by casting a wing of any shape. By the way, having once figured out how to make a matrix with your own hands, in the future you can use this experience not only for spoilers, but also for the manufacture of body parts, such as aerodynamic body kits, skirts, air intakes and much more.
