Heat gun on waste oil. Do-it-yourself waste oil heat gun: step-by-step instructions for making Waste oil gun drawings

The need to heat and dry the room may appear not only in winter. Various devices are used for these purposes. Heat guns are considered one of the practical, highly efficient and durable. Due to their good heat output, they are perfect for situations where there is no stationary heating in the room.

A waste oil heat gun is popular for air heating of premises of various sizes, including relatively large ones: garages, warehouses, workshops, hangars, construction sites.

Waste oil heat gun Kroll W 401 VL

Peculiarities

Heat guns operate on liquid fuel, including any type of waste: engine oil, hydraulic oil, transmission oil, etc. Efficiency these high-power devices reaches 100%. The guns can function without interruption for about 10-15 hours, and if there is a thermostat, then the whole day.

With the help of a pump, the oil is fed into the burner bowl, where it burns, radiating heat energy to the air.

On the market for heating devices, you can find two types of liquid fuel guns:

• indirect heating;
• direct heating.

It is advisable to install heat guns on waste oil only in rooms with good ventilation.

The thermal power of such devices can be 200 kW, and the volume of the heating room can be up to 900 m³.

Many modifications of heat guns in mining have excellent service automation, which provides for the setting of different thermal modes, automatic adjustment of the fuel supply to achieve a certain heating of the room, automatic adaptation to different types of oil, electric ignition, emergency shutdown of equipment. Automation makes the use of waste oil heat guns simple, convenient and safe.

Manufacturers

To choose high-quality and reliable equipment, you should pay attention not only to technical characteristics, but also to the manufacturer. Models of heat guns from such companies as Master, Kroll, EnergyLogic are popular. Let's consider them in more detail.

Kroll is a German company with 30 years of experience. It is a global leader in the production of heat guns, burners, heat generators, dehumidifiers. The brand's products are distinguished by reliability, safety, cost-effectiveness, as well as an interesting design. All products have the appropriate quality certificates according to international and domestic standards, have a quality guarantee.

The Kroll W401K model is perfect for economical heating in car markets, service stations, and industries where you can find a large amount of mining. This heat gun will pay off the owner already, on average, after 5 months. The model is reliable in operation, differs in small dimensions, has a minimum of automation and low cost. Such a furnace does not require complex maintenance by specialists.

The principle of operation of the heat gun on waste oil on waste oil Kroll W401 K

Master is the leading company in the sales of heat guns. For a long time, the manufacturer has brought the technical parameters of its devices to record levels in the industry. Almost all models are quite compact and mobile.

MASTER WA is a series of economical devices that work on almost any type of mining, be it engine oils, hydraulic fluids and even biological oils!

Features of heat guns at Master WA testing

The guns have a chimney. Thermal performance from 19 to 59 kW. Devices are able to economically heat the room. Models of the WA 29A, WA 31, WA 33B, WA 33C, WA 41A, WA 59A series are produced.

The stationary type heat gun MASTER WA 33B uses any mining as fuel. The devices have a chimney for the removal of combustion products, a safe and wear-resistant housing, manual control of the ignition system. This model is able to produce up to 30 kW of heat.

Waste oil heat generator EnergyLogic EL 200H-S

EnergyLogic is a company with dozens of patented innovations and 30 years of experience dedicated to equipment uptime.

The heat generator on the development of the EnergyLogic EL-200H model has a fuel pump, which makes it possible to accurately dose different types of fuel. The body of the heat exchanger is made of stainless steel, which is famous for its excellent resistance to high temperatures and corrosive processes. Spare parts for the model are easy to find on the market, their standardity ensures easy installation and maintenance.

Model EL-200H has louvers for hot air outlet (located either on the right or left side, or both at the same time). The power is 58.3 kW, the power consumption is 1.98 kW.

Waste oil heat guns are a great way to heat non-residential premises. As a fuel, they are not picky, relatively economical. These devices will be a "salvation" for those who are required to work in rooms without heating.

Due to their highly efficient operation, ease of maintenance for many years and other advantages, the heat guns are in good demand in mining.

In my garage, for two years now, in the winter season, a thermal heater has been operating on used oil of my own production. During all this time, he improved and became the desired design that was the most convenient. I must say that I was very pleased with her. But there were two downsides.
Firstly, the heater was too powerful for my 24 sq. meters. 45 minutes after starting the oven at a minimum power in the garage it became warm, and after another 15 minutes it was hot. I had to start and stop the oven several times during the day, which you will agree is not at all convenient.
Secondly, the heater had a terribly low efficiency. This was due to the single-breasted design and the small area of ​​the heat exchanger.
He made different designs and there are developments. I really wanted to make a design for myself, taking into account all the considerations, comments and experience. Prepare the sleigh in the summer, and the cart in the winter, as they say, and set to work.
The pictures show that my design in the course of construction has undergone various changes, it was done along the way. There was an idea to make this heater work from one fan, but trial tests showed the unviability of such a design. Rather, it is viable, but the pressure of the blown air for blowing becomes so weak that the heater loses its most important quality - to "bullet" hot air into the far corner of the garage, or wherever you want.
After a trial run of this heater, I was a little surprised by the result.
The first thought - Damn eats less than the old one twice, and more heat than the old one three times !!! Hurrah!!!
As it turned out, due to a good heat exchanger, the heater turned out to be so economical that the old control unit (from which I launched it) simply could not make the flow lower than required! He started to give fuel from 1.6 volts, and the new gun could work and asked for a lower feed. The second pleasant moment was that it gives heat almost immediately after launch! And that's great. Immediately there was no need to turn on the blowing fan after some time, so that the heater had time to heat up, as required by the old design. So it's easier than an electrician.
I note that for simplicity and reliability of the design, I specifically use all 220 volt fans.
Because they are reliable, economical, easier on the control unit, durable, quieter than similar 12 or 24 volts.
The air supply line was specially hidden in a box so that the heater was more accurate and aesthetically pleasing to the eye.
Sorry for a lot of writing, but I think those who are interested will be interested in the details.
The material for the furnace used sheet metal 2 mm thick. For heat exchanger 1.5 mm For casing 1.2 mm. Yes, of course, for a 2 mm oven, I agree. But for myself I decided to redo it if it burns out where it won’t be difficult for me, the heater is completely disassembled. But it is very interesting for me to see where the zones are most loaded with temperature. So this heater is something like a test sample. And conclusions after observation can be useful for the following designs.
This oven can run on waste oil, any vegetable oil (cheburek waste), fuel oil, used printing ink, oil and diesel fuel.
The evaporation bowl should be cleaned approximately once every 20-50 hours of operation of the heater. I think the design is better with a bowl than without it. There are a lot of designs floating around the web.
Slag in the form of dry residue and pumice-like slag from mining is much easier to clean from the bowl than from the bowels of the furnace. But inside is always clean and tidy. The bowl needs to be changed once a season, because. it burns with heat. Over the past winter (the heater of the old design) I cleaned the bowl only 4 times. And in two seasons, he brewed a new bowl once. So, judging by previous experience, the design is not very whimsical.
If some water gets into the furnace with working out, you can hear it sizzling in the bowl, but nothing terrible happens. If there is a lot of water, it simply goes out. Since this is a closed evaporation structure and the fuel supply is dosed in small quantities, which is much safer.
Here is a video to illustrate.

By the way, you need to put a chimney corrugation in steel, aluminum rattles.
Thank you all for your attention. Good luck to all!

Attached images

Oil waste from the engine and other devices is a very popular fuel for heating garages and even houses. It's always nice to use recycled materials to good use. And in the case when this issue concerns energy resources for heating, this is also beneficial. The role of the "first violin" in this situation is performed by the oven for working out with your own hands. Other names for this device are a heat gun, a heat generator and a heater.

Any combustible oil can be used as fuel. Diesel, machine, transmission, vegetable, confectionery. Absolutely any. A waste oil furnace with a water circuit is also made from recycled materials: pieces of metal, an old oxygen or gas cylinder, or cut pipes of different diameters. The purpose of this article is to talk about how such furnaces are arranged, and how to make such a unit yourself.

Among motorists, a do-it-yourself waste oil stove is quite popular. It heats small rooms well with little requirements for aesthetics and cleanliness. This unit is perfect for a garage, workshop, small country house and other similar buildings.

Homemade furnaces for mining have the following positive aspects:

• low cost and simplicity of design;
• low requirements for the quality of combustible materials;
• good heat transfer performance;
• periodic kindling in winter does not in any way affect the unit itself;
• compactness and mobility;
• no need for complex installation.

For reliable and trouble-free operation of such a furnace for a garage, you only need a good chimney.

The disadvantages of this device include low efficiency and the unpleasant smell of oil vapors that occurs during certain operating modes. It is worth mentioning the appearance of stains on the floor or clothes that appear during direct contact with mining. However, it is quite within the power of any self-taught master to make a supercharged furnace more efficient, we will describe how to do this later.

The standard design of the stove is made in such a way as to heat the air. In order to provide heat to a dwelling, a stove in this design is rarely used: oxygen is burned from hot metal walls, air is dried. But for heating technical or industrial premises, this design is ideal because of its ability to quickly raise the temperature in the room. Such ovens can often be found in garages, car washes, greenhouses, warehouses and other industrial and technical premises.

The design and principle of operation of the oil furnace

The design looks like two tanks, upper and lower, connected by a perforated pipe. They are offset relative to each other's transverse axis. Many people think that tanks should ideally be cylindrical, but in practice it turned out that rectangular ones are absolutely not inferior to them. In order for the structure to be installed on the floor, legs are provided in its device. The furnace device is shown in the diagram below:

The principle of operation of the device is the pyrolysis combustion of heavy fuel. Many people know that engine oil ignites at high enough temperatures, and for burning at home, it will be necessary to turn it into vapors. To create this effect, you will need to fill the bottom tank through the hole about half way through the hole, and then kindle it. But for this you need a light fuel like thinner or gasoline.

During the combustion of gasoline, the mining heats up and begins to evaporate, as a result of which the vapors ignite and the furnace begins to “work”. The lower tank is the primary combustion chamber, where the fuel is partially burned due to the air supply through the hole. To adjust the intensity of the process, a special damper is used, with the help of which the air flow is partially blocked. The maximum fuel consumption is 2 l / h, in the temperature support mode - 0.5 l / h.

The do-it-yourself stove for mining is equipped with a vertical gas duct, on which there are a large number of holes for the passage of secondary air. Combustion products that enter the perforated pipe, mixed with mining vapors, are well burned in it and inside the upper tank. After that, flue gases exit the furnace through the chimney pipe, bending around the partition. Their temperature is quite high, and in order to save most of the heat along with the gases, it is recommended to carry out the following actions:

• lay the chimney along the wall through the entire room, making a slope towards the stove, this is a proven method, the walls of the pipeline have good heat dissipation;
• mount a water circuit, an economizer, immediately behind the pipe, connecting a small tank, a battery, and a pair of heating radiators to it.

With a water circuit, the oil furnace can only be operated continuously. If it is supposed to be used only periodically, then it is recommended to use antifreeze as a coolant. Thus, it is possible to increase the efficiency from 40%, like that of a potbelly stove, to quite serious 50-55%.

What materials and tools are needed?

Any craftsman who has the skills to work with a welding machine can easily and quickly make an oven with his own hands. First you need to make a procurement of materials in accordance with the drawings of the waste oil furnace.

Acting on such detailed instructions on how to make a furnace, it remains only to assemble the prepared parts. To perform the work, you will need a standard set of tools and fixtures:

• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• drill with a set of drills;
• a set of locksmith tools;
• measuring devices.

After the assembly is completed, it is imperative to check the tightness of both containers and the quality of the welds, since over time, mining can seep through the smallest pores and defects. It is quite easy to perform this operation on your own, there are many methods. You can soap the joints, and supply compressed air inside the tanks, or coat the seams with kerosene and visually determine the defects.

To heat a medium-sized room, the power of the oil stove needs to be increased, the design described above will not be enough. Using a similar method, power cannot be increased indefinitely, but still options exist. For example, a furnace equipped with two afterburners, a retractable firebox and a separate fuel tank, as shown below:

How to make a furnace for burning waste from a pipe?

If the body is already ready, the manufacture of the furnace is simplified. The principle of operation of this device is based on evaporation in a plasma bowl. It is capable of delivering up to 15 kW of heat (it gives heating of an area of ​​about 150 m2). It is impossible to increase heat transfer by making any changes in the design (increasing the air supply or furnace volume), it is possible to disrupt the thermal regime by receiving more fumes instead of more heat, and this is unsafe.

If you have the skills to work with welding, you can independently make a waste oil furnace out of a pipe. Instructions on how to make a waste oil stove:

Making the case:

1. You will need a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 210 mm, a wall thickness of 10 mm and a height of 780 mm.
2. A bottom with a diameter of 219 mm is cut out of 5 mm sheet steel and welded on one side.
3. Legs are welded to the bottom (bolts may be suitable for their manufacture).
4. A viewing window is made from the bottom at a distance of about 70 mm. It will serve to monitor combustion and heat the bowl at the "start". Dimensions are made based on personal convenience preferences. The door is made from a cut piece of pipe, having first welded a thin collar. It should still be closed tightly; for this, an asbestos cord is laid around the perimeter of the door. You can also use oven casting, in which case the dimensions of the window should be cut out for it, it will be bolted directly to the body, the presence of an asbestos cord is also necessary in this case.
5. The smoke exhaust pipe is welded from the opposite side, stepping back from the top 7-10 cm. It is made by pipes with a diameter of 108 mm and a wall thickness of 4 mm.

Making the lid:

1. A circle 228 mm in diameter is cut from a 5 mm sheet of metal.
2. From a strip 40 mm wide and 3 mm thick, a side is welded along the edge.
3. A hole with a diameter of 89 mm is made in the center of the cover, another hole with a diameter of 18 mm is made on the side, it will serve as another viewing window. For him
   a cover is made, which will simultaneously serve as a safety valve.
4. A pipe is made to supply fuel and air.
5. To do this, you need a pipe with a diameter of 89 mm, with a wall thickness of 3 mm and a height of 760 mm.
6. 9 holes with a diameter of 5 mm are drilled around the circumference, at a distance of 50 mm from the edge.
7. Two more rows of holes with a diameter of 4.2 mm are made 50 mm higher than these holes, 8 holes in a row.
8. Stepping back another 50 mm, 4 rows of holes are made, 3 mm in diameter, in the amount of 9 pieces.
9. With the help of a grinder, slots 1.6 mm thick and 30 mm high are cut, they should be located on the same side. There should be 9 of them around the circumference.
10. A hole with a diameter of 10 mm is cut from the other end of the pipe, at a distance of 5-7 mm from the edge.
11. A fuel supply pipe with a diameter of 10 mm and a wall thickness of 1 mm is inserted into the resulting hole. It should end flush with the air supply pipe. The length and angle of the bend depend on the location of the fuel tank.
12. The finished air and fuel supply pipe is welded to the cover. It is set in such a way that it does not reach the bottom of the case 120 mm.

1. A piece 30 mm long is cut off from a pipe with a diameter of 133 mm and a wall thickness of 4 mm.
2. A circle with a diameter of 219 mm is cut from a 2 mm steel sheet.
3. It is welded to a piece of pipe, this will be the bowl for supplying fuel.
4. Assembly.
5. The bowl is mounted inside the body at a distance of 70 mm from the bottom. Thus, it will be possible to observe and kindle it from the lower inspection hatch.
6. Install the cover with the fuel / air supply device.
7. The chimney is mounted on the chimney pipe. They are served by a pipe with a diameter of 114 mm, a wall thickness of 4 mm and a height of at least 4 meters. The part remaining indoors can not be isolated, and the part that will go outside is better to be insulated. The chimney must have a strictly vertical position, any inclined sections are excluded.
8. Tests can be carried out after the oil tank has been installed. To do this, a little paper is placed in the bowl, which is filled with fuel and set on fire. As soon as the paper is almost completely burnt out, the oil supply is cut off.

This drawing of a furnace working at mining is not without reason given with such a detailed indication of materials. These are the details you need to use. As a result of the operation of such a furnace with a fuel consumption of 1 - 1.5 l / h, it is possible to heat a room with an area of ​​150 m2.

Features of Pressurized Oil Furnace

A mining stove will help to heat a private house with an area of ​​100 m2, the design of which has built-in forced air injection into the combustion zone. These advantages are obvious:

• increased power;
• high fuel combustion efficiency;
• you can increase the efficiency of heat use by automating the device;
• economy.

It is somewhat more difficult to make such a stove for working out, in addition, this design directly depends on the stability of the power supply. In areas where power outages are not uncommon, special measures will be needed to ensure uninterrupted power supply using generators.

A homemade pressurized furnace working at mining is a closed cylindrical vessel, inside of which is the afterburner chamber familiar to us, which looks like a pipe with holes. At the bottom of the structure is a door that provides access to the firebox and ignition. A chimney pipe is welded to the top of the cylinder, and with the help of a conventional tie-in through the side wall or top cover, forced air supply in the form of a pipe with holes.

At the bottom of the vessel there is fuel (working out), which is supplied automatically as it is consumed. Feeding methods can be very diverse: using a float mechanism or from a container using a submersible mechanism, it all depends on personal preference. The figure shows a diagram of a furnace with air injection, a water jacket and fuel supply using a float valve.

With the help of a small amount of solvent or gasoline, mining is ignited at the bottom of the tank, after which the blower fan is turned on. As soon as the fuel warms up, it begins to emit vapors that are burned with excess oxygen. As a result, a powerful torch of flame is formed, which spreads in all directions as seen in the photograph.

Advice. This design is distinguished by one feature: due to the strong flame, the bottom of the vessel is very hot. If it is necessary to heat one room, a blowing fan is installed opposite this zone. In the case when it is required to heat the whole house, the stove is supplied with a water jacket.

The combustion products coming out of the furnace tank can reach a rather high temperature, about 400 0C. As in the previous design, in order to reduce heat loss, the chimney must be equipped with a heat exchanger connected to the heating system through a storage tank. This will help increase the efficiency of the furnace up to 80 - 85%.

How to make a simple supercharged mining stove?

In order to make a supercharged mining furnace, you will need an old propane tank. Holes for the chimney and doors are cut out in it, and you will also need to embed an air supply pipe, its diameter does not play a big role, but 50 mm will be ideal for us.

Holes in the pipe are made with a diameter of 9 mm according to the same principle as in a conventional stove. You will also need to make a cover with an asbestos cord seal. To do this, you will need to cut off the top of the cylinder, for convenience, handles can be welded to the lid.

In order for a home-made furnace working at mining to be able to function in different modes and be able to be regulated, it is equipped with the necessary automation. To do this, you will need to purchase a controller with temperature sensors, which is connected according to the scheme with a fan. In this case, it becomes possible to control the heating temperature by reducing or increasing the blower performance.

Quite often, such a design is done without forced air supply. All work directly depends on the draft in the chimney, and the regulation is carried out using a manual damper. Now, you know how to make a working oven with your own hands, having drawings. And how it works in real conditions can be seen in the video:

It is always nice to use junk materials with benefit. And when it comes to fuel and heating, it is also very profitable. Waste oil heating stoves are a prime example. They can use any oil that can burn. Transmission, diesel, machine, confectionery, vegetable ... Really any. There are no problems with fuel for such units. What they found, they poured. Moreover, a do-it-yourself furnace is also made from waste materials: an old gas or oxygen cylinder, pipe sections of different diameters or pieces of metal.

The principle of operation of homemade stoves

If any used oil is simply set on fire, the smoke will be merciless and “smell” even more actively. Therefore, direct combustion is not used. First, volatile substances evaporate, then they are burned. This is the basic principle of design development. Therefore, in some embodiments, the furnace has two combustion chambers connected by a tube in which holes are made.

In the lower chamber, the fuel is heated and evaporated. Combustible vapors rise up. Passing through a pipe with holes, they mix with oxygen dissolved in the air. Already in the upper part of this pipe, the mixture ignites, and burns out in the second chamber. Moreover, the combustion of vapors occurs with the release of much more heat and less smoke. With the right technology, there is practically no smoke, as well as soot.

The second method of separating "heavy" fuel (oil of any origin) into "flammable" components is more efficient, but also more difficult to implement. For efficient evaporation, a metal bowl is installed in the lower chamber. It heats up, the droplets of mining that fall on it instantly turn into volatile combustible vapors. In this case, the glow is obtained (in the correct mode) blue-white, as in the case of plasma combustion. From here came another name for this design - with a plasma bowl.

To achieve the greatest efficiency of fuel combustion, used oil must be fed into the lower chamber in very small portions. In some cases - drops, sometimes - a thin stream. That is why this technology is called drip feed.

These are the basic principles of the "operation" of home-made heating units. There are a very large number of their combinations and variations. A few of them are described below.

You can see an example of combustion in a plasma bowl in the video below. This is a Gecko mining furnace, it has a built-in water heater and can work as a heating boiler.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main and main plus is that used fuel and oils are used, which otherwise would have to be disposed of. If the technology is followed, the combustion is so complete that practically no harmful emissions into the atmosphere occur. Other advantages are no less significant:

• simple design;
• high efficiency;
• low cost of equipment and fuel;
• works on any oils, organic, synthetic, vegetable origin;
• the content of up to 10% of pollutants is allowed.

There are also serious drawbacks. And the main one is that if the technology is not followed, the combustion of fuel occurs incompletely. And its vapors get into the room, and this is very dangerous. Therefore, the main and main requirement: furnaces operating on waste oil are installed exclusively in rooms with a ventilation system.

There are more cons:

• to ensure good draft, the chimney must be straight and high - at least 5 meters;
• regular cleaning of the bowl and chimney is required - daily;
• problematic ignition: you must first heat the bowl, then supply fuel;
• water-heating options are possible, but their independent design is a difficult task - you cannot greatly lower the temperature in the combustion zone, otherwise the whole process will fall apart (as an option - install a water jacket on the chimney, here it certainly will not interfere with the decay of the fuel).

Due to such features, such units are rarely used for heating residential buildings. If they are installed, then in separate rooms and in a modified form.

Application area

In the basic version, a homemade waste oil stove heats the air. They are also called heat guns, heat generators or heaters. It is rarely used for heating residential premises in this form: the air dries out, oxygen from hot metal walls is burned out. But to maintain a normal temperature in industrial or technical premises, such units are very effective: they quickly raise the temperature. They can be seen at service stations, car washes, garages, production workshops where there are no combustible materials, warehouses, greenhouses, etc.

Do-it-yourself furnaces for working out - the best option for a garage

Many options can be improved: they can install a coil for heating water or make a water jacket. Such equipment already belongs to the category of water heating and can be installed in a water heating system. Without automation, a mining furnace with a water circuit requires constant monitoring, but for summer cottages, farm buildings with livestock, etc. this is a great option.

How to make a waste oil stove

Today there are already more than a dozen different designs. They use different methods of extracting thermal energy, have a different structure.

Furnaces for burning mining from a pipe

It is easier to make an oven if the body is already ready. As such, you can use a gas or oxygen cylinder, a thick-walled barrel or pipe. The diagram below explains how to make a waste oil stove from a pipe.

The operation of this unit is based on evaporation in a plasma bowl. It can produce up to 15 kW of heat (on average, it can heat 150 square meters). Greater heat transfer due to any changes (the size of the furnace or an increase in the air supply) is impossible: the thermal regime will be violated and instead of more heat, more fumes will be obtained, and this is unsafe.

The build order is:

After installing the oil tank, you can start testing. First, a little paper is placed in the bowl, a flammable liquid is poured, everything is set on fire. After the paper has almost burned through, the oil supply opens.

This drawing of a waste oil furnace is not in vain given with such an accurate indication of the materials. These are the parts you need to use. As a result of the operation of a home-made stove, with a consumption of 1-1.5 liters of fuel per hour, you can heat a room up to 150 "squares".

Drawing of a furnace from a pipe or cylinder in video format

A furnace using waste oil from a cylinder (oxygen or gas) is presented by the author in the video. The design is similar to the one described above, but with original modifications (and it is a little simpler)

Do-it-yourself mini oven for working out

This home-made stove, with a small size and weight (10 kg), fuel consumption of about 0.5 lira per hour, produces 5-6 kW of heat. It is possible to melt it more strongly, but it is not necessary: ​​it can explode. The design is loved by motorists: the garage heats up quickly even in extreme cold, it consumes oil economically, and it is also compact. Therefore, it can be called "garage".

The fuel tank of this small air gun is assembled from the bottom and top of a standard 50 liter gas bottle. It turns out a very reliable design (keep at least one circular seam from the cylinder - there is an o-ring that will give greater strength. You can make a tank from any other container of similar dimensions: 200-400 mm in diameter and about 350 mm high.

In addition to the fuel tank, you need to make a pipe in which the fuel-air mixture is mixed. The wall thickness here is at least 4 mm. You can use a pipe of a suitable diameter. The cones are made from structural steel no thinner than 4 mm.

The dimensions of the waste oil furnace indicated on the drawing can be adjusted up or down, but only by 20 mm - no more. Especially carefully it is necessary to boil the seams in the places of funnels: here the fuel-air mixture lingers for a long time, which is why the temperature is considerable.

The length of the chimney pipe is no more than 3.5 meters. Otherwise, due to too good traction, the fuel will be pulled into the pipe, which will significantly increase consumption and reduce heat transfer.

The figure on the right shows a hot-water version of a homemade stove. Around the upper part of the afterburning zone, several turns of a steel tube are made through which water is passed. In order for the temperature of the gases not to drop much, the coil is closed with a heat-reflecting steel casing. Cold water is supplied from below, passing in a spiral, heats up and goes into the system.

Miracle oven in development

This option is very popular with summer residents and in garages. A convenient small stove, which is made with round or square burning zones. The design is so successful that there are even industrial options. For example, one of the enterprises sells it under the name "Ritsa". The diagram shows all the required dimensions.

Waste oil furnace diagram with dimensions - all you need to make it yourself

A video report on how to assemble this oven will help you navigate the order of work.

The video below shows the variant with square containers, its filling and dimensions.

Factory Options

Waste oil furnaces are made not only by the artisanal method, they are also produced by the industry. And there are both imported and Russian ones. But the type of construction they have is different.

European or American mining boilers belong to the category of liquid fuel furnaces. They use the principle of pressurization: oil is sprayed into small droplets, combined with an air stream. And the fuel-air mixture is already ignited. Imported factory stoves use the same principle, only a special burner is installed in which the fuel is heated before spraying.

To appreciate the difference in technology and structure, watch the following video. The device is completely different.

In most Russian-made furnaces, the first principle is used - there is a hot (plasma) bowl in which liquid fuel turns into gaseous, mixes with air and burns. According to this principle, the following units are built:

Drawings and diagrams

There are many models of furnaces that use waste oil. And below are a few schemes that can give you an idea, and a do-it-yourself oven for working out will be efficient, economical and safe.

Oxygen bottle oven

Scheme of the Gecko oven

Waste oil stove "Typhoon"