Warm floor in a country house with your own hands. Warm floor in a private house, cottage

A well-functioning heating system is the key to a comfortable stay in the house without regard to weather conditions. Along with traditional radiator technology, heating circuit devices actively use a warm water floor system. Its installation is laborious and financially expensive, but this option of heating fully pays for itself in 5 years.

To save money, many equip a warm water floor in a private house on their own. Agree, the idea of \u200b\u200bobtaining efficient heating with minimal investment is very attractive, isn't it? However, its implementation requires the contractor certain knowledge and skills.

We offer for consideration a detailed material on the arrangement of water heated floors. The article sets out the design rules, provides tips on choosing the components of the system, and also describes the step-by-step progress on the installation, connection and start-up of the water circuit.

The device of an additional heating circuit is recommended to be included in the project before the start of construction - it is easier to make calculations.

In a finished new house or building where the radiator system has been operating for a long time, installation of a water floor is also possible, but under certain conditions.

The advantages of water heating have long been appreciated by residents of Europe and Russia: it effectively heats rooms, saves expensive energy, creates the most comfortable atmosphere in bedrooms, bathrooms and children's rooms

If the desire to insulate the floor arose after the construction of the house, it should be determined whether the building is suitable for this. One of the main conditions is pre-made insulation of the house, since heat loss above 100 W / m² will make floor installation useless.

Pay attention to the height of the ceilings: the mounting “cake” with pipes takes about 15 cm, or even more, of the total height of the room. After the introduction of the system, the dimensions of the doorways must be preserved, the height of 210 cm or more.

Such schemes are recognized as the least energy-consuming, most efficient and inexpensive to operate. Solid fuel boiler options are also acceptable.

Flawless operation of the system is possible only under two conditions: professionally executed design calculations and properly completed installation.

Therefore, the first steps on the way to the installation of a water heated floor in the country or in a private house are the analysis of the structure, the choice of materials, the preparation of the project.

The nuances of the device underfloor heating

The construction of a water floor is complex and simple at the same time. It is multicomponent in composition, so the main thing is to observe the stacking order of all layers.

No. 2 - determined with a heater

The main purpose of the insulation is to separate the screed with pipes from the base, so that the heat transfer is carried up, and not go to the ground in vain. A heat-insulating layer is required, without it, installing a warm floor loses its meaning.

Underfloor heating is considered in our understanding a more modern heating system than radiator heating. However, this is far from the case - they appeared much earlier. Stubborn historical facts indicate that underfloor heating was successfully used back in ancient Rome, in Korea, and in Russia too. True, only furnace heating was used then, since the system for transporting hydrocarbons through pipes did not yet exist. In the modern world, the most economically successful countries widely use heating underfloor heating, and this is done not only for reasons of obvious comfort, but also takes into account the fact that such heating saves energy resources, the demand for which is growing every year.

This type of heating is an expensive pleasure. Accessories and work are very expensive. That is why any zealous owner may have the thought of making a water-heated floor with his own hands. Why not? Moreover, the experience of both successful and unsuccessful implementations has already been accumulated enough to give specific recommendations. The purpose of our article is to give specific advice to those owners who are going to make a warm water floor, but at the same time so that they save their money and eventually get what they wanted - comfortable and economical heating.

Why water underfloor heating?

Of course, they are implemented easier, they are easier to manage, but the cost of energy carriers makes its own adjustments - in operation, this type of heating is much more expensive than a water heated floor. Only 4-5 years will pass and a warm water floor will pay off with interest, but only on condition that it is done correctly and correctly. This is exactly what the authors of the article want to tell our readers. Noting colorful catalogs with expensive equipment, but based only on the experience of people who were able to realize a warm water floor in their home.

Most heating systems currently use natural gas as a heat source - and this is completely logical, since this type of fuel is cheaper than others. And this trend will continue for several decades at least. Therefore, underfloor heating is best implemented precisely with water, in which the coolant is heated by the energy of combustion of natural gas. But for this it is necessary to observe a number of conditions.

Water floor heating device

Warm water floor is a complex multicomponent system, each part of which performs its function. Consider its device in the following figure.

Typical “pie” design of a warm water floor

This type of underfloor heating is called “wet” because in its arrangement “wet” construction processes are used, namely, pouring a cement-sand screed. There are also so-called dry warm floors, but they are mainly done. In the framework of this article, we will consider precisely “wet” warm water floors, since they are much better, although their installation is more complicated.

A warm water floor is mounted on a stable and solid foundation, which can be a concrete slab or soil. A vapor barrier made of a plastic film with a thickness of at least 0.1 mm is laid on the base. The next layer of the “pie” is insulation, as it is best used extruded, which has a very low coefficient of thermal conductivity, high mechanical strength and reasonable cost. A cement-sand screed is equipped on top of the insulation, to which a plasticizer is necessarily added - for the mobility of the mixture, ease of installation and reduction of water-cement ratio. It is desirable to reinforce the screed with a metal wire mesh with a mesh pitch of 50 * 50 mm or 100 * 100 mm. There, inside the screed, pipes of the warm floor pass with the coolant circulating in them. The height of the screed over the pipes is recommended to be at least 3 cm, however, practice suggests that it is better to 5 cm, so the strength will be higher and the distribution of heat on the floor will be more uniform.

At the junction of the walls to the screed, as well as at the boundaries of the circuits of warm water heating, a damper tape is laid, which compensates for the thermal expansion of the screed when it is heated. Finishing flooring should be designed specifically for working with warm floors. The best way out is ceramic or porcelain stoneware, but some other types of coatings - laminate, carpet or can also be used with warm floors, but there should be a special icon in their markings.

Such coatings, however, require strict observance of the thermal regime of the floor, which is achieved by the use of automation - special mixing units.

Requirements for the premises where heating will be realized by warm water floors

The smartest move in construction is when the underfloor heating pipeline is laid at the stage of erection of floors. This is very successfully used in Germany, Sweden, Norway, Canada, and in other economically successful countries where energy is very expensive and therefore they use underfloor heating, which is 30-40% more economical than radiator heating. It is possible already in the finished room, but it must meet certain requirements. We list them.

The most correct floor heating pipeline is the one that was laid even at the stage of building a house

Given the significant thickness of the warm water floor - from 8 to 20 cm, the height of the ceilings in the room should allow the installation of such a heating system. It is also necessary to take into account the size of doorways, which should be at least 210 cm high.
The base of the floor must be strong enough to withstand heavy cement-sand screed.
The base for the warm floor must be clean and even. Irregularities should not exceed 5 mm, since the differences strongly affect the flow of coolant in the pipes, they can lead to airing of the circuits and increase hydraulic resistance.
In the room where the warm water floor is planned, all plastering work must be completed, windows inserted.
The heat loss in the rooms should not be more than 100 W / m 2. If they are larger, then it is worth thinking about warming, rather than heating the environment.

How to choose a good pipe for a warm floor

About the pipes of a warm water floor it is written in sufficient detail in our portal. Obviously, for a warm floor, it is better to choose pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene - PEX or PERT. Among PEX pipes, preference should be given to PE-Xa pipes, since they have a maximum crosslink density of about 85% and therefore have the best “memory effect", that is, pipes after being stretched always tend to return to their original position. This allows the use of axial fittings with a sliding ring, which without fear can be walled up in building structures. In addition, when the pipe is broken, it can be restored to its shape by heating a problem area with a construction hairdryer.

PERT pipes do not have a memory effect, therefore only collet fittings are used with them, which cannot be bricked. But if all the contours of the underfloor heating are made with integral pipe sections, then all the connections will be only on the collector and it is quite possible to use PERT pipes.

In addition, manufacturers produce pipes of composite construction, when aluminum foil is placed between two layers of cross-linked polyethylene, which is a reliable oxygen barrier. But the heterogeneity of the material, the difference in the coefficients of thermal expansion of aluminum and polyethylene can provoke delamination of the pipe. Therefore, it is better to choose PE-Xa or PERT pipes with a barrier of polyvinylethylene (EVOH), which significantly reduces the diffusion of oxygen into the coolant through the wall of the pipe. This barrier can be located in the outer layer of the pipe, as well as inside, surrounded by layers of PE-Xa or PERT. Of course, the pipe with the EVOH layer inside is better.

For the contours of the underfloor heating, there are three main pipe sizes: 16 * 2 mm, 17 * 2 mm and 20 * 2 mm. Most often, 16 * 2 and 20 * 2 mm are used. How to choose the right pipe?

Firstly, the brand in this matter matters and it is necessary to pay attention to it. The most famous manufacturers: Rehau, Tece, KAN, Uponor, Valtec.
Secondly, the marking of pipes can “tell” a lot, it should be carefully studied and do not be shy to ask more questions to the sales consultant.
Thirdly, the qualification of a sales consultant helps a lot when choosing a pipe. Do not forget to require certificates of conformity, ask about the availability and price of fittings, mixing units, manifolds and other equipment. It is necessary to find out in which bays the pipe is sold, how many meters, so that in future it will be taken into account in the calculations.
And finally, if a PE-Xa pipe is selected, then a little test can be done. To do this, you need to break a small section of the pipe, and then warm this place with a construction hairdryer. For high-quality PE-Xa, and PE-Xb pipes, the original shape should also be restored. If this does not happen, then whatever is written on the labeling is simply not a PEX pipe.

Principles of designing a warm floor

One of the most important stages in the arrangement of warm water floors is their competent calculation. Of course, it is best to entrust it to specialists, but already gained experience suggests that this can be done independently. On the Internet you can find a lot of free programs and online calculators. Most eminent manufacturers provide their software for free.

water heated floor

First you need to decide what temperature should be on the warm floor.

In residential areas where most of the time people spend standing, the floor temperature should be in the range of 21 to 27 ° C. This temperature is most comfortable for the legs.
For work rooms - offices, as well as living rooms, the temperature should be maintained at around 29 ° C.
In the hallways, lobbies and corridors, the optimum temperature is 30 ° C.
For bathrooms and pools, the floor temperature should be higher - about 31-33 ° C.

Heating with warm water floors is low temperature, therefore, the coolant must be supplied at lower temperatures than radiators. If water can be supplied to radiators at a temperature of 80-90 ° C, then no more than 60 ° C can be supplied to a warm floor. In heat engineering, there is such an important concept as temperature drop in the heating circuit . This is nothing but the temperature difference between the feed pipe and the return pipe. In warm water floor systems, 55/45 ° C, 50/40 ° C, 45/35 ° C and 40/30 ° C are considered optimal modes.

A very important indicator is (hinges) of a warm water floor. Ideally, they should be all of the same length, then there will not be a problem with balancing, but in practice this is unlikely to be achieved, therefore it is customary:

For pipes with a diameter of 16 mm, the maximum length is 70-90 m.
For a pipe with a diameter of 17 mm - 90-100 m.
For a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm - 120 m.

Moreover, it is desirable to focus not on the upper border, but on the lower one. It is better to divide the room into a larger number of loops than to try to achieve circulation with a more powerful pump. Naturally, all the loops must be made of pipes of the same diameter.

Step of laying (laying) of the floor heating pipe - Another most important indicator, which is made from 100 mm to 600 mm, depending on the thermal load on the heated floor, the purpose of the room, the length of the circuit and other indicators. It is almost impossible to make a PEX pipe pitch of less than 100 mm, it is likely to simply break the pipe. If the underfloor heating will be equipped only for comfort or additional heating, then a minimum step of 150 mm can be made. So, what is the layout step to apply?

In rooms where there are external walls, in the underfloor heating, so-called marginal zones where the pipes are laid in increments of 100-150 mm. The number of rows of pipes in these areas should be 5-6.
In the centers of the premises, as well as in those where there are no external walls, the laying step is 200-300 mm.
Bathrooms, baths, paths near the pools are laid with a pipe in increments of 150 mm over the entire area.

Ways of laying the contours of the warm floor

The contours of a water floor heating can be laid in different ways. And each method has its advantages and disadvantages. Consider them.

Laying the pipe underfloor heating "snake" it is easier to install, but its significant drawback is that on the floor there will be a noticeable temperature difference at the beginning of the circuit and at the end - up to 5-10 ° C. The coolant passing from the supply manifold to the return in the construction of the warm floor cools down. Therefore, there is such a temperature gradient, well felt by the feet. This method of installation is justified for use in boundary areas where the floor temperature should decrease from the outer wall to the center of the room.

Laying a pipe underfloor heating "snail" more difficult to implement, but with this method the temperature of the entire floor will be approximately equal, since the supply and return pass inside each other, and the difference is leveled by a massive floor screed when the design requirements of the installation step are fulfilled. In 90% of cases, this is the method used.

Combined methods of laying floor heating pipes also apply very often. For example, the marginal zones are laid with a snake, and the main area with a snail. This can help to properly divide the room into circuits, distribute the pipe bay with a minimum of residues and provide the desired mode.

In each of the methods can be applied variable pitch when in the marginal zones it is 100-150 mm, and in the room itself 200-300 mm. Then it is possible to provide in one room the requirements for more intensive heating of the edge zones, without using other laying methods. Experienced installers often do just that.

Layout of the heating circuit "snail" with a constant pitch (left) and with variable naga (right)

To calculate the contours, it is best to use special and very easy to learn software. For example, the famous manufacturer Valtec, which distributes its program for free. There are also simpler programs for calculating the layout of the contours, which count the length of the loops, which is very convenient. For example, the program "Snail", which is also distributed free of charge. Those who are not very friendly with the computer, you can do the calculation of the contours yourself, using graph paper on which to draw a scale of the floor plan and already on this sheet with a pencil “spread out” the contour and calculate their length.

When dividing the premises into the contours of a water heated floor, the following requirements must be met:

Contours should not pass from room to room - all rooms should be regulated separately. The exception may be the bathrooms if they are located nearby. For example, a bathroom next to the toilet.
One heating circuit should not heat a room with an area of \u200b\u200bmore than 40 m 2. If necessary, the room is divided into several circuits. The maximum length of either side of the circuit should not exceed 8 meters.
A special damping tape should be laid around the perimeter of the room, between the rooms, and also between the individual circuits, which, after pouring the screed, will compensate for its thermal expansion.

Choosing a type of insulation for a warm floor and its thickness

Insulation for a warm water floor is required, because no one would like to spend their money on heating the earth, atmosphere or unnecessary building structures, but the floor is just the one that needs to take the lion's share of the heat from the heating circuit. For this, insulation is used. What types should be used? Among all their diversity, the authors of the article recommend that only two of them should be paid attention to.

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS). This material has low thermal conductivity, high mechanical strength. EPPS is not afraid of moisture; it practically does not absorb it. Its price is quite affordable. This insulation is produced in the form of plates of standard sizes 500 * 1000 mm or 600 * 1250 mm and a thickness of 20, 30, 50. 80 or 100 mm. For good joining of plates on the side surfaces there are special grooves.

Profile heat-insulating polystyrene foam of high density. On their surface there are special round or rectangular bosses, between which it is very convenient to lay the pipe without additional fixation. The pipe pitch is usually 50 mm. This is very convenient during installation, but at a price they are much higher than plates made of EPS, especially with famous brands. They are produced with a thickness of 1 to 3 cm and sizes 500 * 1000 mm or 60 * 1200 mm - it depends on the manufacturer.

EPPS boards may have an additional foil layer having additional marking. Marking plates is, of course, useful, but the presence of foil only increases the cost of insulation, and there will be no sense from it for two reasons.

The reflectivity declared by the manufacturers will not work in an opaque environment such as screed.
Cement mortar is a strong alkaline medium that perfectly “eats” an insignificant (several tens of microns) layer of aluminum even before it hardens. It must be realized that foil plates are a marketing ploy and nothing more.

The authors of the article recommend using EPSP boards for insulation. Savings compared to profile mats will be obvious. The difference in cost will be enough for fasteners, and still a lot of money will remain. Recall folk wisdom that the money saved is akin to earned money.

What thickness should be the insulation in the design of the cake warm floor? There are special and complex calculations, but you can do without them. If you learn a few simple rules.

If warm floors will be done on the ground, then the thickness of the insulation should be at least 100 mm. It is best to make two layers of 50 mm and lay them in mutually perpendicular directions.
If warm floors are planned in rooms above the basement, then the thickness of the insulation is at least 50 mm.
If warm floors are planned above the rooms heated from below, then the thickness of the insulation is at least 30 mm.

In addition, it is necessary to provide for the fastening of EPS plates to the base material, since when pouring the screed they will tend to float. Dish plugs are ideal for this. They need to fix all the plates in the joints and in the center.

To fasten the pipe to the EPSS, special harpoon-clips are used that securely fix the pipe. They are fastened with an interval of 30-50 cm, and in places where the PEX pipe is turning, the step should be 10 cm. Usually it is estimated that 500 pieces of harpoon staples are required for a bay of 200 meters of pipe. When you purchase them, you do not have to chase the brand, as this will cost several times more. There are very high quality and inexpensive staples of Russian manufacturers.

The choice of collector-mixing unit underfloor heating

The collector of the water floor is the most important element that receives the coolant from the line, distributes it along the contours, regulates the flow and temperature, balances the loops of the circuits, and helps to remove air. Not a single warm water floor can do without it.

The choice of a collector, or more correctly, a collector-mixing unit, is better to entrust to specialists who will select the necessary components. In principle, it can be assembled independently, but this is the topic of a separate article. We simply list which elements should be included in order not to make a mistake in choosing.

Firstly, it is directly the collectors themselves, which can be equipped with various fittings. They should be equipped with tuning (balancing) valves with or without flow meters, which are located on the supply manifold, and thermostatic valves or simply shut-off valves can be on the return.

Secondly, any collector to remove air from the system must be equipped with an automatic air vent.
Thirdly, both the supply and return manifolds must have drainage taps to drain the coolant from the collector and remove air when filling the system.
Fourth, fittings should be used to connect the pipe to the manifold, which are selected individually in each case.

Fifth, special brackets are used to mount the collectors and ensure the desired center distance.

Sixth, if the boiler room does not have a separate riser for underfloor heating, then the mixing unit, including the pump, thermostatic valve, and bypass, should be responsible for the preparation of the heat carrier. The design of this node has many implementations, so this issue will be considered in a separate article.

And finally, the entire collector-mixing unit must be located in the collector cabinet, which is installed either in a niche or openly.

The collector-mixing unit is located in such a place that all the lengths of the mains from it to the loops of the warm floor are approximately equal and the main pipes are in close proximity. The collector cabinet is often hidden in a niche, then it can be placed not only in change houses and boiler rooms, but in dressing rooms, corridors and even living rooms.

Video: What calculations are necessary before installing a warm floor

Do-it-yourself installation of a water heated floor

After calculating and purchasing all the necessary components, you can gradually realize a warm water floor. First, you need to identify the places where the collector cabinets will be placed, hollow out, if necessary, niches, and also make passages through building structures. All mortising and drilling work must be completed before the next step.

Insulation Installation

Before this stage, it is necessary to prepare the premises for this - take out everything unnecessary, remove all construction waste, sweep out and vacuum the floors. The room must be absolutely clean. When installing the plates, you must be in shoes with a flat sole, as heels can damage the surface. We list the sequence of actions when installing a heater.

First of all, on the walls the level of a clean floor is beaten off using a laser or water. All ground irregularities are measured using a long rule and level.
If the irregularities exceed 10 mm, then they can be completely leveled with clean and dry sand, which should subsequently be leveled.

If the underfloor heating is done on the ground or above the basement, then a waterproofing film is laid out with an overlap of adjacent strips of at least 10 cm and with approach to the wall. The joints are glued with tape. As a waterproofing, a polyethylene film of 150-200 microns is quite suitable.
Starting from the far corner of the room, the process of laying the EPS plates begins. They are laid close to the walls with the marked surface facing up.
EPPS plates should fit tightly together using the grooves that are on their side surfaces. When laying each plate, it should fit snugly to the base and be in a horizontal plane, which is checked by the construction level. If necessary, sand is poured under the stove.

If there are obstacles in the form of protrusions, columns and other elements along the laying path, then after preliminary marking, the slab is cut with a construction knife on a metal ruler. In this case, the EPSP must be put on some kind of unstable base so that the knife does not become dull, for example, a piece of plywood or OSB.
When laying the next row, it should be borne in mind that the joints of the plates should not coincide, but go apart, like brickwork. In order that if the last remaining in the row of the EPS plate is left at least 1/3 of its length, then the laying of the next row should begin with it.
If you plan to lay the second layer of EPS, then it should be in a mutually perpendicular direction with the first layer.
After laying the thermal insulation, plate-shaped dowels should be fixed at each joint — at each joint and in the center of each EPS plate — using a perforator with a long drill and a hammer. The joints between the EPSs are sealed with construction tape.

If there are cavities or cracks left after installation of the insulation, then they can be clogged with scraps of EPS and blow out with foam, but you can do this later, after installing the pipes.

After that, we can say that the installation of insulation has been completed. Although the EPPS boards are of sufficient density to support the weight of an adult, safety precautions must be taken when moving around them. It is best to use wide boards or pieces of plywood or OSB.

Installation of pipes for warm water floors

The most crucial and difficult moment has come - the installation of floor heating pipes. At this stage, you need to be especially careful and accurate and here you can’t do without an assistant. It is also desirable to have a special device for unwinding the pipe, since it is strictly forbidden to remove the pipe from the bay with rings, since then there will be very strong stresses in it, which will complicate or make installation impossible. The main rule - the bay must be twisted, and not remove the pipe from a fixed bay. In principle, this can be done manually, but with the device is much easier.

If there is a marking on the upper side of the EPS plates, then this is just wonderful, then the laying of pipes will be greatly simplified. And if not, then you should not "be led" to purchase a foil thin insulation made of foamed polyethylene with marked markings. There will be no sense from him. You can markup yourself. To do this, markers are made on the upper side of the plates at the distance of the required step of the contour, and then the lines are beaten off with a painting thread - this way you can markup in a short time. After that, you can draw the traces of the contours of the warm floor.

screed for underfloor heating

The collector cabinet is mounted in the intended place and the collector is mounted in it, while without the pump and mixing group, it will be needed later. At the entrance to the collector, at the exit from it, as well as at the entrance to, each pipe must be protected by a special corrugation. However, corrugation from renowned manufacturers costs astounding money, so it is quite acceptable to replace it with thermal insulation of the appropriate diameter. Pipes must also be protected during transitions from room to room and from circuit to circuit.

Installation of a warm floor pipe should start from the areas farthest from the collectors, and all transit pipes should be insulated with foamed polyethylene insulation, which will ensure maximum energy conservation to the destination, and will not “lose” heat along the road. Further, the pipe “emerges” from the EPS plates, already “bare” bypasses its entire heating circuit and “dives” back, and already in thermal insulation it goes to the collector. The transit pipes themselves are placed inside the EPS plates, for this, the paths of the passage are cut through them with a knife beforehand.

If the thermal insulation consists of two layers of EPS panels, then the first layer is laid first, then all communications are laid, including transit pipes of the warm floor, and then the second layer is adjusted and cut in place.

In addition, in the area where the floor is heated, pipes can go to radiators, as well as hot and cold water mains. If there are several pipes, then they can be fixed in the bundle with either plate-shaped dowels or a perforated metal strip and dowels. In any case, they should not protrude beyond the upper surface of the EPS panels so that the contour of the warm floor can be laid freely from above. All cavities are blown with a mounting foam, which, after solidification, is cut off flush from the surface of the insulation boards.

A damper tape is glued to the walls around the room where the floors will be heated, which is designed to compensate for the thermal expansion of the screed. Tape can be with or without an adhesive layer. When you purchase it, you do not have to chase the brand and overpay several times more. Now produced in every sense worthy damper tape of Russian production. If there is no tape at all, then this also does not matter, it can be replaced by a foam plastic 1 or 2 cm thick, glued to the wall with liquid nails or polyurethane foam.

Damper tape should also be installed between rooms and different contours. For this, a special tape with a T-shaped profile is produced. And in this case, it can be replaced by a thin polystyrene glued with a mounting foam or glue.

Pipe installation is done as follows:

10-15 m of pipe are unwound from the bay, thermal insulation and the corresponding fitting are put on its end for connection to the collector.
The pipe is connected to the supply of the corresponding collector pin.
A pipe is laid along previously marked tracks and fastened with harpoon-brackets in straight sections after 30-40 cm, and at bends after 10-15 cm. The pipe should be bent carefully, without creases.

When laying it is not necessary to try to fasten the pipe immediately, but it should first be laid out approximately along the tracks for 5-10 m, and only then fastened with brackets. The pipe should lie on the heater without voltage, there should not be an effort that tries to pull the brackets out of the EPS.
If the bracket for some reason flew out of its place, then it is mounted in another, at a distance of at least 5 cm.
After bypassing the entire contour of the warm floor, the return pipe returns to its feed and next to it follows the collector. If necessary, thermal insulation is put on it.
Upon arrival to the collector, the pipe is connected to it with an appropriate fitting.

Near the corresponding loop of the heated floor on the wall, as well as on paper, the contour length is necessarily recorded. These data are necessary for further balancing.

Similarly, all contours are laid. At first it will be difficult, but then, after one laid “snail” everything will already be clear and the work will go without problems. When moving along already laid out contours, it is necessary to lay boards, plywood or OSB under the legs or knees.

Piping in shoes is not recommended. It’s better to organize such “paths”

Video: Laying the underfloor heating pipe

Reinforcing mesh installation

The debate about the feasibility of reinforcing mesh is ongoing. Someone says that it is needed, others say the opposite. There are many examples of successful incarnations of a warm floor without a reinforcing mesh, and, at the same time, there are examples of unsuccessful implementation of a warm floor with reinforcement. The authors of the article argue - reinforcement will never be superfluous, but only correctly performed.

The Internet is replete with examples when a metal mesh is laid and fixed on the insulation, and only then a warm floor pipe is attached to it using plastic ties. It seems to be convenient, but this is not reinforcement, but simply laying under the screed absolutely useless mesh, for which the money was spent. Reinforcement is when the mesh is inside the screed, and not under it. That is why the authors recommend placing the grid on top of the pipe.

To reinforce the screed, a metal mesh made of wire with a diameter of 3 mm and a mesh size of 100 * 100 mm is suitable - this is quite enough. Nets made of fittings are not recommended due to the fact that the fittings have a corrugated surface and during installation can damage the smooth surface of the pipe. Yes, and you should not spend extra money on the excess strength of the screed, because it is assumed that the underfloor heating is already installed on a fairly solid foundation. The mesh is laid with an overlap on one cell and is connected either with a knitting wire or with plastic clamps. Sharp protruding ends must be bitten off so that they do not damage the pipe. Additionally, the grid is attached to the pipe in several places with plastic clamps.

Instead of a metal mesh, a plastic one may well be used, which will perfectly reinforce the screed and save it from cracking. It is more convenient to lay a plastic net, as it goes in rolls. The use of plastic mesh virtually eliminates pipe damage, and its cost is significantly lower.

After laying the net, the question again arises of protecting pipes, because moving in shoes along a metal net can easily damage both it and the pipe. Therefore, it is again recommended to move only on boards, plywood or OSB. But there is still a very competent solution that will avoid damage to the pipes when pouring the screed.

A cement mortar is prepared - the same as it will be when laying the screed (1 part of cement M400 and 3 parts of sand) and during the laying process “blobs” are made from the mortar, which protrude slightly beyond the surface of the mesh - 2 cm is enough. These "digs" are made with such a frequency (30-50 cm), which will allow you to put boards or plywood on them in the future and move completely safely. Another plus of this approach is the fixation of the mesh, because when you walk along it, it tends to bend, and this can damage welds.

"Paws" from the solution will fix the mesh and help to move safely

Filling out the contours. Hydraulic test

This operation should definitely be carried out before pouring the screed, since with a hidden malfunction it is easier to eliminate it immediately than after the floors are flooded. To do this, a hose is connected to the drain pipe on the collector and discharged into the sewer, as a lot of water will be spilled through the heating circuits. Best of all, if the hose is transparent - it will be easy to track the exit of air bubbles.

To the input of the supply manifold, which must be equipped with a shut-off ball valve, tap water is connected through a hose or pipe. If the quality of tap water is low, then it is worth filling the system through a mechanical filter. An injection pump is connected to any other output connected to the underfloor heating circuits. This can be a free exit of the supply collector, the return of the return from the collector and other places - it all depends on the specific implementation of the collector assembly. In the end, a tee can be screwed into the ball shut-off valve of the feed manifold and through it the system can be filled and crimped. After testing, the tee can be removed and the collector connected to the supply line.

The system is filled as follows:

On the collector, all contours of the warm floor are blocked, except for one. Automatic air vents must be open.
Water is supplied and its purity and air outlet are controlled through the drain hose. Technological lubricant and chips, which must be washed off with running water, may remain on the inner surface of the pipes during production.
After all the air has come out and the water flows absolutely clean, the drain valve is closed, and then the already washed and filled circuit is closed.
All these operations are done with all contours.
After flushing, removing air and filling all circuits, the water supply tap is shut off.

If leaks are detected at the filling stage, they are eliminated immediately after depressurization. The result should be a clean and dehumidified system of warm water floors filled with clean coolant.

To test the system, you will need a special tool - a pressure pump, which you can rent or invite an experienced craftsman with such a device. We describe the sequence of steps during crimping.

All contours of the underfloor heating connected to the collector are fully open.
Pure water is poured into the pressure pump's tank, and the pump supply valve opens.
The pressure in the system is twice as high as the working one - 6 atmospheres, it is controlled by the pressure gauge of the pump and the manifold (if it has a pressure gauge).
After raising the pressure, a visual inspection of all pipes and connections is carried out, which, in principle, should only be on the manifold. The pressure on the pressure gauge is also monitored.
After 30 minutes, the pressure is again raised to 6 bar and all pipes and connections are inspected again. Then after 30 minutes, these steps are repeated. If leaks are detected, they are immediately eliminated after depressurization.
If no leaks are detected, then the pressure is again raised to 6 bar and the system is left for a day.
If after a day the pressure in the system dropped by no more than 1.5 bar and no leaks were detected, then the underfloor heating system can be considered correctly mounted and sealed.

When the pressure in the system is increased, according to all laws of physics, the pipe will try to straighten, so it is possible to "shoot" some brackets in those places where they were greedy with them. Therefore, "digs" from the solution will help to keep the pipe in place. In the future, when the screed is filled in, the pipe will be securely fixed, but a poorly fixed pipe can present unpleasant surprises during pressure testing.

Video: Filling the system with coolant

Video: Crimping the underfloor heating system

Beacon Installation

The underfloor screed must be poured through pipes under working pressure. Given that in most closed heating systems, the operating pressure should be in the range of 1-3 bar, you can take the average value and leave a pressure of 2 bar in the circuits.

As beacons, it is best to use guiding drywall profiles PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27. They have sufficient rigidity and a smooth upper surface, which is very useful when leveling the screed.

Lighthouses should be installed at a clean floor level minus the thickness of the finish flooring. To fix them, very often they simply use mortar pads, on which a guide profile is laid, and then it is recessed in level. But this approach has the disadvantage that if the lighthouse falls below the required level, you have to get it, add a fresh solution and put it again.

It is best if the beacons from the guide profile have a rigid support underneath and concrete dowels and a screw of the appropriate length can serve as it. It is preferable to use special screws for concrete - pins that do not require the installation of a dowel, and, therefore, the drilling diameter will be smaller. If a dowel with a diameter of 10-12 mm is required to be drilled, then 6 mm is sufficient for a dowel. The top surface of the screw head should be level with the surface of the future coupler.

Concrete wood screws

Lighthouses should be located at a distance of no more than 30 cm from the walls. There should not be much distance between the beacons, since the solution has a habit of settling and a pit may form on the already finished screed. Optimum - 1.5 m, then to align the screed, use a building rule of 2 m. When installing beacons, do the following:

From the walls located to the left and right of the entrance, at a distance of 30 cm two lines are drawn - this will be the position of the extreme lighthouses.
The distance between these two lines is divided into equal parts so that it does not exceed 150 cm. It is desirable that one of the strips fall directly at the entrance to the room. If necessary, the strip per entrance may be smaller.
On the floor are drawn lines of the position of future lighthouses. They make marks of the location of the pins in increments of 40-50 cm.
Holes are drilled with a drill corresponding to the drill at a predetermined depth.

It is best to use the laser level to set the hats on the same plane. If it’s not in the arsenal of a home master, then it doesn’t matter, now this very useful tool can be rented, especially since it will only take one day.

Laser level - an indispensable tool for marking and installing beacons

The position of the lighthouses is marked on the wall. To do this, the thickness of the finish floor covering is subtracted from the level of the clean floor previously drawn on the wall. The laser level is set at this point, and then, screwing or unscrewing the pins, their hats are set at the same level. If you use the usual building level during this operation, it will take a lot more time, and the error will be higher.

Further, guide profiles are placed on the hats of the nails, the correct installation is checked by the building level. To fix the lighthouses in their places, use a cement mortar of the same formulation as for screeding (1 part cement + 3 parts sand).

Lighthouses are removed from the hats, and then slides are made from the prepared solution slightly higher than the height of the screed. It is enough to do them after 1 meter, since the lighthouse will already be securely fixed on the hats. Further, the profile is laid and pressed into the solution, and its excess on top is immediately removed with a spatula. Finally, the level checks the correct installation of all beacons.

At the same time, you can check the correct installation of all the damping tapes separating the rooms and the contours and, if necessary, strengthen their position with a solution.

water heated floor

Video: Installation of beacons for screed

Filling screed floor heating

Increased demands are made on the screed of a warm water floor, because in addition to the mechanical loads it carries, it also experiences thermal deformations. And usually cement-sand mortar will not work here, the concrete mixture must be modified with plasticizer and fiber.

The plasticizer is designed to reduce the water-cement ratio, increase the mobility of the mixture and increase its strength during drying. Mobility when laying a screed underfloor heating is extremely important, since the solution should tightly “grab” the pipe and easily release air bubbles out. Without the use of a plasticizer, the only way to increase the mobility of the mixture is to add water to it. But then only part of the water will react with cement, and the rest will evaporate for a long time, which will increase the setting and solidification time and reduce the strength of the screed. The water-cement ratio should be exactly one that will allow the screed to seize. Typically, 1 kg of cement requires 0.45-0.55 kg of water.

The plasticizer is available in liquid and in dry form. It must be used exactly as the manufacturer recommends, and nothing else. Any "substitutes" in the form of liquid soap, laundry detergent, PVA glue are unacceptable.

The fiber is intended for dispersed reinforcement of concrete mix, which allows to reduce or virtually eliminate the formation of cracks, increase strength and abrasion resistance, increase bending and compression strength. This is achieved by the fact that microfibre fibers are distributed and fasten the screed over the entire volume of the concrete mixture.

Fiber is metal, polypropylene and basalt. For screed, it is recommended to use polypropylene or basalt fiber. Add it according to the manufacturer's recommendations, but it is recommended to use at least 500 grams of polypropylene fiber per 1 m 3 of the finished solution. To obtain a mixture with the best properties, add 800 or more grams per 1 m 3.

On sale you can find ready-made mixtures for pouring screed underfloor heating from well-known and not very manufacturers. The composition of these mixtures already includes plasticizer, fiber, and other components. With the undoubted convenience of their use and high quality, the cost of the finished screed will be significantly higher than the self-prepared solution.

Before pouring screeds, it is necessary to remove all excess objects from the floor, if necessary, vacuum the surface. It is also necessary to prepare all the tools and utensils for mixing and transporting the solution. All work on filling the screed of the underfloor heating in the room should be done at one time, so it is advisable to have two helpers: one prepares the solution, the second wears it, and the main contractor puts and evens the screed. All windows should be closed in the room, the screed should be limited from exposure to drafts and direct sunlight.

Self-preparation of mortar for screed floor heating should be done only mechanized way - the quality of the solution should be high. As auxiliary mechanisms, a concrete mixer or a construction mixer can be used. No nozzle for a drill or punch here is suitable, no matter what the various "truthful" sources say.

The basis of the solution is Portland cement grade not lower than M400, which must be dry and with a storage time of not more than 6 months after the date of issue. Sand should also be dry, washed and sieved. River sand does not fit - it is too regular in shape. For screed, the ratio of cement to sand should be 1: 3 by weight, but in practice, few weigh sand and cement, and a universal method of measurement is taken - a bucket. Given that the density of building sand is in the range of 1.3-1.8 t / m 3, and cement during transportation is 1.5-1.6 t / m 3, you can not be afraid to measure cement and sand with buckets, since the quality the mixture will be perfectly acceptable.

The water in the composition of the solution should be approximately one third of the mass of cement, that is, approximately 15 liters of water are needed per 1 bag of 50 kg of cement. However, the use of a plasticizer reduces the water-cement ratio, therefore, when preparing a solution with water, you need to be very careful - it is better to add a little bit and then add than to overfill.

The technology for preparing the mortar with a mixer and concrete mixer is slightly different. The mixer needs to mix dry cement, sand and fluffed polypropylene or basalt fiber at low speeds and then gradually add water with the plasticizer dissolved in it. In gravity-type concrete mixers, which are the absolute majority, it is difficult to mix dry cement and sand (dry cement sticks to wet blades and a drum), so part of the water with plasticizer is poured into it first, and then cement is gradually added first, then sand, then another portion of cement and the remaining water. Fiber is added gradually. One part with water, the other with sand. At the same time, the fiber can not be thrown into the drum of the concrete mixer in a lump, but it must be divided into portions and fluffed before laying.

The preparation time of the mortar in the concrete mixer is usually 3-4 minutes, and with the mixer a little longer - 5-7 minutes. The readiness of the solution is determined by uniform color and consistency. If you take a lump of solution in your hands and squeeze, then water should not stand out from it, but at the same time, the solution should be plastic. If you put the solution on the floor with a slide, then it should not spread much, but only slightly settle under its own weight. If cuts are made in it with a spatula, they should not blur, but should keep their shape.

Laying the screed starts from the far corners of the room and is carried in stripes along the lighthouses. Only after the completion of one strip, the next one is laid and leveled, the process should end at the entrance to the room. During the leveling process, you do not have to try to immediately perfectly align the surface of the screed with the beacons. The main thing is that there should be no dips in the screed, and small flows and traces of the rule can be easily corrected later.

After 1-2 days (it all depends on external conditions), when it is already possible to walk on the screed, it is necessary to clean its surface. First, it is cut with a construction knife and the damper tape protruding from the screed is removed, and then the construction rule is taken and pressed with the sharp end to the plane of the lighthouses. In the direction away from you, with short, but energetic movements, stripping is performed until the lighthouses are completely exposed. Then the garbage formed is removed, the screed is moistened from the spray gun and covered with a plastic wrap.

The next day, the beacons are carefully removed, you can also unscrew the pins, and the resulting grooves are wiped with a solution or tile glue. The screed is moisturized and covered again, it is recommended to do this daily for the first 10 days after pouring.

Balancing the contours of the warm floor. Commissioning

After the screed has fully matured, and this is at least 28 days, you can proceed to balancing the contours of the warm floor. And in this process, flow meters on the manifold will greatly help. That is why it is necessary to purchase a manifold with balancing valves and flow meters.

The fact is that the hinges of the warm floor have different lengths, respectively, they have different hydraulic resistance. Obviously, the “lion's share” of the coolant will always go along the path of least resistance - that is, along the shortest path, while others will get much less. Moreover, in the longest circuit, the circulation will be so sluggish that there can be no talk of any heat removal. A well-designed project of underfloor heating always indicates the flow rate in each circuit and the position of the control valves, but if the underfloor heating is done on its own, then a simplified, but current method will work.

If the pump and mixing unit has not yet been connected, then it is installed. The collector of the warm floor is connected to the supply and return lines.
All contours of the underfloor floor are fully opened, ball valves for supply and return are opened at the inlet of the collectors. Automatic air vent valves must be open.
Turns on the circulation. The maximum temperature is set on the head of the mixing unit, but the boiler does not turn on yet, the coolant must circulate at room temperature.
The pressure in the entire heating system is brought to the working (1-3 bar).
All contours of the warm floor are closed, except for the longest. The position of the flowmeter on this circuit is noted and recorded.
The second longest contour opens completely. If the flow in it is greater, then the balancing valve is twisted until the flow is aligned with the longest.

Further, all the circuits are opened sequentially in descending order of their length, the flow rate is regulated by balancing valves.
As a result, the flow rate in all circuits should be the same. If this is not so, then you can adjust the adjustment on the contours without touching the longest loop.

All of the above operations are performed correctly and the flow meters show that the circulation in the circuits occurs, then it is possible to start testing a warm floor with a heated coolant. It is necessary to start at low temperatures - from 25 ° C, and then gradually increase the temperature by 5 ° C every day until the coolant is supplied to the circuits with its operating temperature. What is the sequence of actions at this stage.

At the thermostatic valve of the mixing unit, the temperature is set at 25 ° C, the circulation pump is switched on at the first speed and in this mode the system is allowed to work for 24 hours. At the same time, the circulation of the flowmeters is monitored and adjusted.
After a day, the temperature rises to 30 ° C, and again the system of warm floors is left for a day. The flow rate and flow and return temperatures are controlled.
The next day, the temperature rises another 5 ° C, up to 35 ° C. This is already much closer to the operating mode of the warm floor, so it is already worth adjusting the temperature difference between the supply and return manifolds. If it is in the range of 5-10 ° C, then this is normal, and if it is more, then the speed of the circulation pump should be increased by one step.
The maximum temperature to which it is possible to raise the temperature in the underfloor heating supply manifold is 50 ° C, but it is better not to do this, but check at operating conditions - 45 ° C or 40 ° C. Similarly, the difference in temperature between the supply and return is checked. The pump should run at the lowest possible speed so that the temperature difference is up to 10 ° C.

The correctness of the adjustment of the warm floor cannot be evaluated right away, since such a heating system is very inertial. Several hours must pass in order to feel the change in temperature. Therefore, everyone who made their own underfloor heating should arm themselves with patience and gradually bring the system to such a regime that would ensure the desired floor temperature, taking into account the coating. To do this, you will need to "play around" with the settings of the balancing valves, thermal heads (if the collector will be equipped with them) and the speed of the circulation pump. The main thing is that a self-made water-heated floor system works.

Find out how, having studied the instructions with the photo, in a special article on our portal.

Conclusion

Stubborn statistics suggest that the system of warm water floors, in addition to obvious comfort, also provides significant energy savings. The same statistics indicate that the number of successful independent implementations of such heating is growing every year. All technologies have already been worked out, the market is flooded with any components for every taste, color and wallet. The necessary information is always in open sources, experts can always be asked for advice. The team of authors hopes that this article dispelled the initial fear and made it clear to readers that it is quite possible to make a water-based warm floor with your own hands.

Video: How to calculate and make a water heated floor yourself

Before each owner of a private house is the question of choosing the optimal type of heating, which will not only adequately fulfill its functions, but also in harmony with modern design. Bulky heating radiators are outdated, worsen the interior of the room and dry the air. An alternative is a water heated floor, for a private house this is the most effective option.

What water underfloor consists of

We bring to your attention not only a list of component materials, but also the principle of their choice.

Pipes.For installation of floor heating, plastic or metal-plastic pipes are used. Recently, pipe fittings made of cross-linked polypropylene have been recognized by plumbers, which differ from other pipes in their high resistance to deformation, excellent thermal conductivity and a high degree of tightness.

An important condition when choosing pipes is their suitability for use in heating systems. Unfortunately, some unscrupulous sellers, taking advantage of the incompetence of the client, sell pipes designed for water supply. The result is an inefficient floor heating system. To avoid this, you need to look at the markings that are on each pipe:

linear expansion of not more than 0.025 mm / m;
thermal conductivity from 0.43 W / m 0 C.

The required amount of pipe depends on indicators such as the pitch and diameter of the material. See the table for more details.

Boiler.You can purchase gas, electric or solid fuel. The choice will be determined by the region of residence. For example, if there are power outages, it is better to buy a gas boiler. If we talk about power, then it depends on many indicators. For a standard house with insulated walls, plastic windows and a ceiling height of at least 3 meters, the following calculation is made: the specific power per square meter should be 100 W or 1 kW per 10 m 2. Knowing the total area of \u200b\u200bthe house, you can calculate the power of the boiler. In this case, it is better to include a power margin of about 20%.

Collector.It ensures the operability of the entire water floor and maintains the temperature set by the thermostat. It’s best not to save, but to buy a collector consisting of a flow sensor, a drain valve and a Mayevsky valve (bleeds air that has got into the system). In addition, you will need to select a shield.

Circulation pump.Acquired if it is no longer integrated in the boiler. This device provides the circulation of water in the system and can be equipped with a temperature controller that will control the flow rate of water and, thereby, regulate the temperature in the system. The ideal solution is a three-speed pump with a temperature controller (installing a temperature controller will require knowledge in the field of electrical engineering and not everyone can do it). You can find out how to choose a pump by its performance from the table:

As for the company, it is better to give preference to European manufacturers. The German company Grundfos has proven itself perfectly.

Accessories.This includes couplings, threads, fittings, ball valves, etc. The required number of them is calculated individually, based on the characteristics of each system of water floor heating. Floor heating in each particular house has to be calculated and planned individually.

Read also about, which will help to seriously reduce heating costs.

Installation of a water floor

First of all, you need to inspect the old floor. Linoleum, parquet, boards are subject to dismantle. On the tile, if it is strong enough, you can lay plastic pipes without pouring a rough screed.

A rough screed, otherwise it is called "primary", serves for the most dense installation of thermal insulation. Therefore, at this stage, you can not really worry about the floor level and the presence of small irregularities. A layer of concrete a few centimeters thick will be sufficient. For these purposes, cement grade M-300, mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 4, is suitable.

The next step will be the installation of thermal insulation. There is nothing complicated here, you only need to pay attention to the joints between the material. They need to be fixed with mounting tape to avoid unnecessary heat loss.

Material for insulation can be different:

Styrofoam. Although it is considered a morally obsolete insulation, it copes well with the task assigned to it. The only drawback is the fragility.
Foam insulation with foil reflective layer.
Heater expanded polystyrene for a heat-insulated floor. This material is best suited for thermal insulation. Having a high density, expanded polystyrene (aka penoplex), perfectly insulates the water floor from a cold concrete base. You can use Penoplex 35, which is resistant to fire.

The last step will be the installation of a reinforced mesh with a reinforcement cross section of 5 mm and with mesh sizes of 10-15 cm. Pipes themselves can be attached to it using plastic ties. In addition, the reinforced mesh serves as a bonding structure for the concrete floor. Or you can install special mats for the water floor.

Secrets of masters when installing pipes for floor heating

Do-it-yourself work does not have any particular difficulties, but there are a number of nuances, the knowledge of which will help to carry out the installation correctly.

The choice of styling scheme.Two stacking methods are known: snake and snail (spiral). The latter option is preferable. The fact is that when laying a pipe with a “snake”, the water temperature decreases towards the end of the loop, which entails uneven floor heating. The location of the pipe in a spiral will help to avoid this: the floor warms up evenly. Moreover, much less material is required.

How long should the pipe be?Regardless of the capacity of the selected boiler, the water will cool, as it moves away from the point of entry. Therefore, the recommended pipe length is 100 m. In case a larger value is needed, several circuits are used, each of which is connected to the collector separately.

How to calculate the pitch?Only an experienced designer can accurately calculate the step: to obtain the correct value, many factors are taken into account, from wall thickness and window dimensions to the diameter of the pipe. Nevertheless, there are averaged data that we will operate with. The optimal installation step for the system, which is the main source of heat in the house, is 10-20 cm. This value is not constant. Near the outer walls, the first 5-6 rows are laid in increments of 5-6 cm, closer to the inner walls and the middle of the room, the step increases to the above data.

Today, construction stores have special mats for warm water floors, which greatly simplify and speed up the process of laying pipes. Look at the photo how it works.

Use of mats for warm water floors

How to solder pipes?There are also several subtleties in this issue that need to be covered in the article:

to connect pipes to each other, it is better through special adapters (otherwise barrels);
if brazing of metal-plastic pipes is done, then the metal sheath must be removed at a distance of about 3 cm from the edge of the pipe.

To achieve high quality connections, refer to the following table.

Assembly, installation, connection of the collector

It should be noted that the process of installing the collector will differ depending on the model, the number of heating circuits, selected components. In order for the system to function without complaints, the assembly must be carried out in accordance with the instructions attached to the devices.

Where to place the collector?When choosing a location for mounting the collector box, you must take into account the equivalent distance from all circuits. This is necessary to ensure uniform water pressure in all circuits. If the wall on which the collector cabinet is installed is not supporting, you can make a niche in it.

How to assemble a collector?

Consider the assembly process using the Icma UPS as an example. At the same time, we will take into account that the circulation pump and the collector are used together, this will ensure ease of heating control.

We install a circulation pump on the union nuts, gaskets are needed between the nut itself and the pump.
We connect the collector to the pump group by screwing the adapters with a union nut and not forgetting the gaskets.
The temperature controller and the valve responsible for the intake of cold water (mixing) must be connected to the mixing unit.
We connect the mixing group to the collector.

Now the collector can be installed in the enclosure, connect the flow and return to the distributor from below, then connect the elements of the heating circuit using adapters.

Boiler installation: features, sequence

When connecting the boiler to the underfloor heating system, a problem often arises. The fact is that the boiler gives out a water temperature of 75-80 0 С, and for normal operation of a water heated floor, a temperature of not more than 45 0 С. There is only one way to do this in a closed heating system: dilute the hot water with the cooling water coming from the "return". This function is performed by a kneading unit for underfloor heating.

Floor heating during installation should be collected according to the following scheme, starting from the boiler:

At the beginning of the circuit, a control valve is installed, then a circulation pump and a manifold.
A mixing unit is mounted between the valve and the pump in such a way that the cooled water from the "return" flows into the supply and then through the circulation pump to the heating system.
The final stage is bringing the return pipe to the boiler.

It should be remembered that the principle of installation of the boiler itself will differ for different models and types of equipment.

Details: floor with wiring diagrams.

Pressure testing and trial run

After completing installation work, you need to test the system. To do this, crimping.

There are two ways to check the tightness of the system: pressurized water or compressed air. The first option is preferable: after checking for leaks, you can immediately turn on the heating. Air verification is used when the heated floors are powered by central heating, and there is no certainty that it will be turned on in time. In any case, the pressure should be no higher than 6 bar. A system is considered to be operational if, in 24 hours, the pressure indicator has decreased no more than 1.5 bar.

After a leak test, a full start can be made. The water temperature should be about 80 0 C, for this the mixing unit must be turned off. At this temperature, the voltage in the pipes decreases, which ensures the durability of the structure.

Conclusion

Pour concrete screed after the water in the pipes has completely cooled down. For screed, you can use both traditional concrete and mortar for underfloor heating, which has a higher ability to conduct heat. The layer thickness should not exceed 7 cm.

After the screed has completely dried, the floor can be laid.

In contrast to the electric underfloor heating on a liquid coolant requires more complex calculations for integration into the heating system. The service life and the efficiency of the system directly depend on the correct choice of materials, accessories, installation and heating operation scheme.

Choice of pipes for floor heating

In contrast to popular belief, the choice of pipes for installing a heat exchanger in the floor is not so wide. In total, there are two options: cross-linked polyethylene and copper. The most obvious advantages of special materials are durability, resistance to deformation, low coefficient of linear expansion. But the main advantage is the oxygen barrier, which, ultimately, prevents the occurrence of sediment on the inner surface of the pipes.

The meaning of the use of copper in the high thermal conductivity of the tubes and corrosion resistance. The obvious drawback is the complexity of installation and the high risk of failure in the presence of solid particles (sand) in the coolant. Despite the fact that only an inexpensive gas lamp and flux are needed for soldering, it is a difficult task to bend the coil correctly. This is despite the fact that there can be several tens of turns of a copper tube and one error that entails a break leads to the rejection of the entire segment or the need for additional soldering.

Polymer (polyethylene) tubes have a higher coefficient of thermal expansion; in addition, they lose strength properties when heated above operating temperatures, however, in warm floors, in principle, the coolant does not heat above 40 ° C. Ease of installation is an obvious plus. It easily bends and fits in a spiral or coil. The pipe is delivered in bays of 200 m, allowing you to lay underfloor heating without a single connection in the entire volume of the future screed. Most branded polyethylene tubes involve the use of a special tool for crimping and welding.

Circulation

Water heating systems with underfloor heating do not work according to the gravitational principle and always remain volatile. Because of this, overheating happens: failures in the circulation and recirculation system can also give 70-80ºС, therefore, the savings from the use of polymer pipes should be at least partially spent on improving automation and auxiliary mechanisms.

The flow rate of the coolant in the tubes is strictly regulated by the manufacturer, assigning this task to the general circulation of the system means increasing the risk of malfunctions. A forced circulation device is always installed in front of the collector assembly, then each of the circuits is adjusted to adjust the required flow rate. This determines the maximum loop length of each circuit and the temperature difference at its beginning and end.

For pumping water in the system use circulation pumps designed for radiator heating systems. The diameter of the nozzles is determined by the required throughput of the pipe, which the pump is connected to the collector. The lifting height (or pump pressure) is determined by the total hydrodynamic resistance of the pipes declared by their manufacturer for different loop configurations and bending radii. Each connection requires an increase in lifting height. Speed \u200b\u200bcontrol for heated floor pumps is not required, however, with accelerated circulation, more intensive pumping of the system is possible for a quick exit to the mode.

Collector unit

When using more than one branch for floor heating, the presence of a collector assembly (comb) is strictly necessary. Independent soldering of the collector even for two loops will not give the desired result, it is almost impossible to balance the lines in the absence of uniform distribution and valve regulators.

The collector is selected both by the number of branches and by the total throughput. In essence, it is a multi-channel flow controller. Of the case materials, stainless steel and high-quality brass are most preferred. For underfloor heating, two types of collectors can be used. With a difference in the length of the contours of less than 20-30 meters, ordinary brass with ball valves are suitable. With a wide spread of hydrodynamic drags, a specialized collector with flow regulators at each branch is needed.

Please note that it is not necessary to buy a dual (feed + return) collector. You can install a high-quality mixer with flow meters on the supply line, and on the return - cheaper with valve (not ball) valves. We should also pay attention to what type of pipes the collector assembly is designed for. Most low-cost products involve connecting MP pipes, which are poorly suited for underfloor heating and therefore are used less and less. For polyethylene circuits it is better to invest in reliable and proven REHAU collectors, for systems on copper tubes - Valtec and APE. The connection of copper tubes to the collector is recommended through flaring and / or threaded fitting, soldering directly is not recommended because of the low maintainability of such connections.

Temperature preparation unit

The comb comb itself is not the whole collector. The assembly of the mixing unit is equipped with special fittings that provide for the adjustment of the water temperature before being fed into the system. Both hot water and cold can mix in, which fundamentally determines the specifics of the two types of mixing.

A simple scheme for incorporating a warm floor. 1 - three-way valve; 2 - circulation pump; 3 - ball valve with a thermometer; 4 - distribution manifold with flow meters; 5 - return manifold with control valves; 6 - a contour of a heat-insulated floor. The temperature in the circuit is controlled manually and is highly dependent on the inlet coolant temperature.

The first type uses a closed circulation cycle, mixing hot water with a three-way valve as needed. The disadvantage of the system is that in case of malfunctions in the operation of automation or the use of solid fuel boilers, a large amount of hot water can be supplied at a time, adversely affecting the polymers, as well as the flooring and microclimate in the room. Therefore, hot water pumping is practiced mainly in systems on copper tubes.

Ready-made mixing unit for underfloor heating. The temperature and degree of mixing of the coolant are fully automatic

For polyethylene circuits, more expensive collectors are preferred, mixing cold water from the return to reduce the incoming temperature. The complexity of such mixing units is due to the presence of an additional recirculation pump. Adjustment can be made as a custom two-way valve, and an electronic thermostat that controls the speed of the pump motor. The latter is an example of the struggle for accuracy and reducing the inertia of the system, by the way, very successful. However, such systems are volatile.

Whether to take the collector assembly is a moot point. Of course, the presence of a guarantee is an obvious plus, but it is not always possible to find a model with the necessary binding and the number of taps, in such cases you will have to assemble the device yourself.

Warming and storage layer

The cake of the warm water floor is as follows: foam insulation, heating pipes and heat-accumulating screed in the order from bottom to top. The thickness and materials used of the main layers should be selected in accordance with the operating parameters of the system.

The insulation is selected taking into account the planned heating temperature, and more precisely - the temperature difference between the underfloor and underfloor heating. Mainly use EPSP or PPU plates with connecting edges. This material is practically incompressible at a distributed load, while the indicators of heat transfer resistance are among the highest. The approximate thickness of the polymer insulation is 35 mm for a temperature difference of 30 ºС and then 3 mm for every 5 ºС.

Ways of installing underfloor heating in a private house. Three options for fixing and distributing pipes are proposed: A - Use of special mounting mats for underfloor heating. B - Installation on a reinforcing mesh with a step of 10 & nbs; cm using plastic ties. C - Laying pipes in prepared troughs in a heater using reflective screens. The design of the heated floor: 1 - concrete base of the subfloor; 2 - insulation; 3 - damper tape; 4 - concrete screed; 5 - flooring; 6 - reinforcing mesh.

In addition to protecting the pipes from damage, the screed controls the inertia of the heating system and smoothes out the temperature difference between the sections of the floor directly above the pipes and between them. If the boiler operates in a cyclic mode, the heated concrete will give off heat, even if the flow of hot water is temporarily absent. In case of accidental overheating, a heat-resistant screed will ensure the removal of temperature, eliminating damage to the pipes. The average thickness of the screed is 1 / 10-1 / 15 of the distance between adjacent tubes. By increasing the thickness, you can get rid of the effect of thermal zebra with a rare tube laying. Naturally, the consumption of materials, as well as the inertia and the time the system goes into operation, will increase.

When installing underfloor heating on the ground, it is necessary to pour 15-20 cm of an incompressible layer of ASG. Crushed stone for the purpose of additional thermal insulation can be replaced with expanded clay. On insulated frame floors, a warm floor can be laid immediately on top of the waterproofing, with which the rough floor is hidden to prevent cement milk from escaping from the screed. In the best case, under the tubes, a layer of thermal cut-off from PPU or EPSP of 20-25 mm is arranged. Even such a thin layer is enough to eliminate the cold bridges represented by the supporting structure of the floor, as well as distribute the load from the screed.

Installation Nuances

Installation of underfloor heating should take place according to a pre-thought out scheme. The collector requires a place equipped for installation, it can be either a boiler room or a compartment hidden in the wall. The rationality of installing intermediate manifolds depends on whether savings are achieved compared to laying pipes from the central distribution unit, and whether such an increase in the length of the largest loop is permissible. The supply of pipes to the heating zones is recommended for rooms that do not require targeted floor heating: pantries, corridors and others like them.

Fix the floor heating pipes only to the special installation system. Perforated tape or mesh provide precise adjustment of the installation step, reliable fixation for the solidification time of the mixture and the gaps necessary for the temperature solution.

Fixing the mounting system to the floor is done through the insulation without significant pressure. You need to fix it in the holes formed after bending the petals to crimp the tubes. Thus, the attachment points are located closest to the heating elements, which eliminates their ascent, displacement or lifting of the entire system when pouring concrete mixture.

Now many residents of private houses install a water heated floor for basic or additional heating. It has a lot of advantages: it increases comfort, evenly warms up the room, does not require additional energy costs (because it works from one boiler with radiators). The instructions in our article will allow you to install water-heated floors, even without experience. However, before this it is worth exploring all the nuances.

Best of all, a warm water floor system is combined with laying under and tiles.

Firstly, both materials are strong and durable.
Secondly, they do not emit harmful substances when heated.
And thirdly, heating perfectly complements the tile (the material itself is cold), and you can walk on it even barefoot due to its high heat capacity.

Of course, underfloor heating can also be done under linoleum, PVC-tile and even carpet, if there is a special mark.

But, for example, there is no point in heating the carpet, and you can not exceed the surface temperature above 31 ° C, according to SNiP 41-01-2003. Otherwise, it will provoke the release of harmful substances.

Installation in the apartment

Probably, many tenants had the idea of \u200b\u200bindependently connecting “for free” water heated floors to a central heating system or hot water supply. And some even do it, but in most cases it is prohibited by local law.

For example, in Moscow, government decree No. 73-PP of February 8, 2005 is in force, Appendix 2 clearly states the prohibition of re-equipping public water supply systems for floor heating devices.

Violating the rules, at best, you can get a fine at the first visit to plumbers. And at worst - the risk of leaving neighbors without heating.

In some regions, the ban is not valid, but the connection requires an examination, so as not to disrupt the system.

In general, from a technical point of view, such options are possible, but only when connecting a separate pump and mixing unit and maintaining the pressure in the outlet system.

Note! If there is a jet pump (elevator) in an apartment building, then metal-plastic and polypropylene pipes cannot be used.

Floor installation methods

There are several ways to arrange a warm water floor.

The most popular and reliable of them is a concrete screed. Unlike electrical types, 16 mm pipes cannot be hidden in tile glue, and it won’t work out. Therefore, the screed is poured at least 3 cm above the pipes.
The second way - laying pipes in the cut grooves of expanded polystyrene. The grooves are done manually, pipes are laid inside, then the screed is poured.
The next option is often used in houses with wooden floors, although it requires a lot of labor - it is laying in wooden grooves. To do this, boards are filled on the floor, which create a gutter of the desired shape for laying.

Types of pipes used

For a warm water floor, three types of pipes are suitable.

Pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene (PEX-EVOH-PEX) are inconvenient to work because it is difficult to give them the desired shape (when heated, they straighten). But they are not afraid of freezing liquid and maintainability.
Plastic pipes - the best option: low price, ease of installation, stably hold shape.
Copper pipes are expensive, when used in a screed, they must be covered with a protective layer to prevent alkaline exposure.

Calculation of a warm water floor

Prior to installation and procurement of materials, it is mandatory to calculate the warm floor. To do this, draw a diagram with contours, which is then useful when carrying out repairs to know the position of the pipes.

If you are sure that furniture or plumbing will always be in a certain place, do not lay pipes in this place.
The length of the circuit with a diameter of 16 mm should not exceed 100 m (for a maximum of 20 mm it will be 120 m), otherwise the pressure in the system will be poor. Thus, each circuit approximately occupies no more than 15 square meters. m
The difference between the length of several circuits should be small (less than 15 m), that is, they should all be of uniform length. Large rooms, respectively, are divided into several circuits.
The optimum pipe laying pitch is 15 cm when using good thermal insulation. If in winter there are often frosts below -20, then the step is reduced to 10 cm (only possible at the outer walls). And in the north can not do without additional radiators.
With a laying step of 15 cm, the flow rate of pipes is approximately 6.7 m per square meter of the room, and when laying every 10 cm - 10 m.

The graph shows the dependence of flux density on the average temperature of the coolant. The dashed lines indicate pipes with a diameter of 20 mm, and solid lines - 16 mm.

The graph shows data that are valid only when using cement-sand screed with a thickness of 7 cm, coated with tiles. If the thickness of the screed is increased, for example, by 1 cm, then the heat flux density decreases by 5-8%.

To find the flux density, the sum of the heat losses of the room in Watts is divided by the pipe laying area (the indents from the walls are subtracted).
The average temperature is calculated as the average value at the circuit inlet and outlet.

The optimum temperature at the inlet and outlet should not differ by more than 5-10 degrees. The maximum temperature of the heat carrier should not exceed 55 ° C.

According to the above scheme, you can only make a rough calculation and make the final adjustment due to the mixing unit and thermostats. For accurate design, be sure to contact a professional heating engineer.

Warm floor cake

The technology for laying a warm water floor consists of several layers, which are laid in a certain sequence. The total thickness of the cake is 8-14 cm, the load on the floor is up to 300 kg / sq. m

In case the base is a concrete slab:

waterproofing;
insulation;
reinforcing mesh;
water floor heating pipe;
screed.

For waterproofing, it is permissible to use ordinary plastic film or special materials. The damper tape is made of chopped insulation strips 1-2 cm thick, or buy a finished version with a self-adhesive base.
The choice of insulation depends on several factors: region, base material. For example, extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 5 cm (optimally 10) is also used for floors on the ground, and if there is a warm base under the floor of the first floor, thinner options from 3 cm can be used.

The main purpose of the insulation is to direct heat from heating upwards and prevent large heat losses.

In the event that the base is ground floors:

bulk soil 15 cm;
crushed stone 10 cm;
sand 5 cm;
rough screed;
waterproofing;
perimeter damping tape;
extruded polystyrene foam at least 5 cm;
reinforced screed with coolants.

The preparatory layers for the rough screed is important to carefully tamp in layers. When densely compacting the base and using extruded polystyrene foam, it is not necessary to make a rough screed.

Installation of underfloor heating

Suppose a good foundation has already been prepared: a flat concrete slab or a backfill layer without strong drops. The differences should not exceed 7 mm when checking with a two-meter rail. If there are bumps, they can be covered with sand.

Waterproofing

Someone puts waterproofing under the bottom of the insulation, someone, on the contrary, up, and some use both there and there.
If extruded polystyrene foam is used, it practically does not need waterproofing, so its position is not so critical. But it will not allow cement milk to penetrate between the joints of the insulation and go into the slab and will additionally restrain moisture from below.
If you fix it to the bottom of the insulation, then you can fix the pipes on the warm floor directly to the insulation. If the waterproofing is laid up, then fixing the pipes will require installation grid installation.

We put waterproofing with an overlap on the walls by 20 cm, and on top of each other. We glue the joints with tape for sealing.

Damper tape

If you bought a finished tape - just glue it around the perimeter. It usually has a thickness of 5-8 mm and a height of 10-15 cm. The height should be higher than the fill level, the excess cut off with a knife. If the tape is made by yourself, then be sure to glue or screw it with screws to the wall.

The linear expansion of concrete is 0.5 mm per meter when heated to 40 ° C.

Insulation

A sheet of insulation for a warm water floor is laid with a displacement of the joints so that it is tightly connected.

Reinforcement

The first layer of reinforcing mesh is usually laid on the insulation and used as a base for fastening the contours and uniform distribution of heat on the surface. Between themselves nets are connected by wire. Pipes are attached to the net on nylon clamps.

The diameter of the wire rods is 4-5 mm, and the cell size, depending on the step of laying the pipes, for convenient fastening.

In addition, it is necessary to lay the reinforcement on top of the pipes, because even when using the net from below, it will have almost no effect if it lies at the bottom. Or, during pouring, put the grid on the supports, creating a gap.

Pipe Fixing Methods

Water floor heating can be laid in several ways, we list them.

Polyamide tightening collar. Used for quick fastening of pipes to the mounting grid. Consumption - about 2 pieces per 1 m.
Steel fixing wire. Also used for mounting to the grid, the flow rate is exactly the same.
Stapler and clamps. Suitable for fast fixing pipes to thermal insulation. The consumption of clamps is 2 pieces per 1 m.
Locking track. It is a U-shaped strap made of PVC, which serves as the basis for laying 16 or 20 mm pipes in it. Rigidly attached to the floor.
Mats for polystyrene underfloor heating. In the middle of the grooves between the columns a pipe is laid.
Distribution aluminum plate. It is used for installation in wooden floors, reflects and evenly distributes heat on the surface.

The use of various types of pipe fittings

Pipe laying

Pipes are laid indented from the walls 15-20 cm. Each circuit is highly desirable to make a single pipe without welding, and their length should not be more than 100 m. The step between the pipes near the walls is 10 cm, closer to the center - 15 cm.

The layout of the underfloor heating is different, for example, with a spiral or a snake. At the outer walls, they try to make the laying step more often or draw a contour from the feed next to the cold walls. An example of a scheme for enhanced heating of external walls is shown in the photo, this option is best used in cold regions:

In the remaining cases, the contours are usually laid with a spiral (snail), this is a universal option.

In places with a large congestion of pipes, in order to avoid surface overheating, some of them are closed with a heat-insulating tube.

Plastic 16 mm and 20 mm is easy to bend manually, without the use of special tools. To smoothly bend the pipes with a small radius and at the same time prevent it from cracking, the corners are bent in several passes (hand intercepts).
At an angle of 90 °, approximately 5-6 interceptions will be required. This means that at first, resting against the thumbs, they make a slight bend, then they slightly shift their hands towards the bend and repeat the actions.

The presence of kinks on the pipes in places of sharp turns is unacceptable.

Polypropylene pipes are much more difficult to bend because they spring. Therefore, for bending, they are heated or made, but in the case of a warm floor, they are simply attached to the grid, making the bends less sharp.

Installation of a water heated floor begins with connecting the first end of the pipe to the distribution manifold, and after laying the room, the return line (second end) is immediately connected.

Connection of circuits

In most cases, the circuits are connected through a distribution unit. It has several functions: increasing the pressure in the system, adjusting the temperature, uniform flow in several circuits, combining with radiators.

There are many schemes for connecting to the boiler, which we wrote about in an article about: with manual adjustment, with weather automation and automatic adjustment with servos and sensors.

Eurocone fitting

Pipes are connected to the manifold using Euroconus clamp fittings.

Crimping

When you have completed the installation of all circuits, it is imperative to carry out pneumatic tests of the system for leaks. To do this, using a compressor, pressure testing is done. For testing, a small household compressor with a pressure of more than 6 bar is suitable. The pressure in the system is adjusted to 4 bar and left for the whole time, until the system starts.

Since air molecules are much smaller than water molecules, even a slight depressurization can be detected. In addition, water can freeze if you do not have time to connect the heating, and nothing will become of the air.

Floor screed

Screed filling is done only after installation of all circuits and hydraulic tests. It is recommended to use concrete not lower than M-300 (B-22.5) with crushed stone with a fraction of 5-20 mm. The minimum thickness of 3 cm above the pipe is made not only to obtain the desired strength, but also for an even distribution of heat on the surface. Weight 1 sq. m. screed with a thickness of 5 cm is up to 125 kg.

When the thickness of the screed is more than 15 cm or at high loads, an additional calculation of the thermal regime is required.

With increasing thickness of the screed, it takes more time to heat it to a certain temperature after switching on, and the inertia of the system also increases. The lower the heat conductivity of the screed, the higher it will be necessary to make the temperature of the coolant.

Expansion joints

Examples of dividing a large room into zones

The absence or incorrect position of the temperature gaps is the most common cause of screed failure.

Shrink seams are made in the following cases:

the room has an area of \u200b\u200bmore than 30 square meters. m .;
walls are more than 8 m long;
the length and width of the room differ by more than 2 times;
over expansion joints of structures;
the room is too curved.

For this, a damper tape is laid around the perimeter of the seams. At the seam site, the reinforcing mesh should be divided. The deformation gap should be at the base with a thickness of 10 mm. The upper part is treated with sealant. If the room has a non-standard shape, it must be divided into simpler elements of a rectangular or square shape.

If the pipes pass through expansion joints in the screed, in these places they are laid in a corrugated pipe, 30 cm of corrugation in each direction (according to SP 41-102-98 - 50 cm on each side). It is recommended not to separate one circuit with expansion joints; feed and return pipes should pass through it.

Correct passage of contours through technological seams

When laying tiles on expansion joints, the likelihood of peeling off due to the different expansion of adjacent plates increases. To avoid this, the first part is laid on tile adhesive, and the second part is attached to an elastic sealant.

For additional separation, expansion joints of an incomplete profile can be used. They are made using a trowel, 1/3 of the thickness. After concrete hardens, they are also sealed with sealant. If pipes pass through them, they are also protected by corrugation.

Screed Cracks

A fairly common phenomenon is the appearance on the screed cracks after drying. This can trigger a number of reasons:

low density insulation;
poor compaction of the solution;
lack of plasticizers;
too thick screed;
lack of shrink joints;
concrete drying too fast;
wrong proportions of the solution.

Avoiding them is very simple:

insulation should be used with a density above 35-40 kg / m3;
screed solution should be plastic when laying and with the addition of fiber and plasticizer;
in large rooms you need to make shrink seams (see below);
it is also impossible to let the concrete set quickly, for this it is covered with plastic wrap the next day (for a week).

Screed mortar

It is imperative to use a plasticizer for a warm floor to increase the elasticity and strength of concrete. But you need to use special types of non-air-borne plasticizers for underfloor heating.

Without experience, making a cement-sand screed for a warm floor without crushed stone / gravel will not work, and the correct branded DSP will cost more than factory concrete. Therefore, in order to avoid cracks due to a violation of the composition of the solution, concrete with crushed stone is poured.

The M-300 mortar of cement of the M-400 brand, washed sand and gravel is made in the following proportions.

Mass composition of C: P: U (kg) \u003d 1: 1.9: 3.7.
Volumetric composition per 10 liters of cement P: Щ (l) \u003d 17:32.
Out of 10 liters of cement you get 41 liters of mortar.
The volumetric weight of such concrete M300 will be 2300-2500 kg / m3 (heavy concrete)

There is also another option using granite screenings instead of sand, for its preparation the following elements were used:

2 buckets of crushed stone with a fraction of 5-20 mm;
water 7-8 liters;
superplasticizer SP1 400 ml of solution (1.8 l of powder is diluted in 5 liters of hot water);
1 bucket of cement;
3-4 buckets of granite screenings with a fraction of 0-5 mm;
bucket volume - 12 liters.

High-quality concrete should not emit water during installation (delaminate). If everything is done correctly and the air temperature is 20 ° C, it should begin to set in 4 hours, and after 12 hours it will not leave traces of heels.

After 3 days after pouring, the screed will gain half of its strength, and will harden completely only after 28 days. It is not recommended to turn on the heating system until this point.

Mounting on a wooden floor

Wood does not conduct heat so efficiently, unlike concrete, but installation on it is also feasible. For this, aluminum distribution plates are used. Pipes are laid in wooden grooves made by attaching pre-prepared boards.

For the installation of linoleum, carpet and other materials that require a flat surface, an equalizing layer of chipboard, plywood or GVL is laid over the pipes. If parquet or laminate is used as the topcoat, the construction of the warm floor can be slightly simplified without the use of a leveling layer.

When choosing plywood and particleboard, make sure that they have sanitary and hygienic and thermomechanical indicators that allow them to be used together with a warm floor.

Prices for water floor heating

The price of a warm water floor is formed from several components:

the cost of materials (pipes, insulation, fasteners, etc.);
cost of pump and mixing unit and collector;
work on leveling the base and pouring the upper layer of the screed;
the cost of installing a warm floor.

On average, the price of a water heated floor during turnkey installation together with all materials and work will cost about 1,500-3,000 rubles .. per 1 sq. M. m

Below is an approximate estimate for a house of 100 square meters. m., but the prices of water underfloor heating strongly depend on the region, so it is best to drive your data there and make an independent calculation. It does not include the costs of installation and purchase of radiators, a boiler, topcoat and screed.

Estimation for installation of water floor heating system of 1 floor.
№	Name of material	Units rev.	Qty	Price	Amount
1	Extruded polystyrene foam 5 cm	m2	96	227	21792
2	Mounting grid 150 * 150 * 4	m2	106	30	3180
3	250 micron plastic film	m2	105	40	4200
4	Metal-plastic pipe 16 mm	m.	700	39	27300
5	Damper tape from the substrate	m2	30	50	1500
6	Collector Valtec 1 ″, 7 x 3/4 ″, “Euroconus”	pC.	2	1600	3200
7	Connection fitting to the collector (Euroconus) 16x2 mm	pC.	14	115	1610
8	Pump and mixing unit	pC.	1	14500	14500
9	Dowels and screws	pC.	300	1,5	450
10	Mounting tape	m.	50	11	550
11	Other accessories for underfloor heating	pos	1	0	0
	Total materials				78282
	Name of works	Units rev.	Qty	Price	Amount
1	Rough screed	m2	96	60	5760
2	Damper tape mounting	m.	160	60	9600
3	Waterproofing	m2	100	60	6000
4	Mesh Installation	m2	110	150	16500
5	Pipe installation	m2	96	300	28800
6	Crimping system	m2	96	20	1920
	Total work				68580

1	Total materials				78282
2	Total work				68580
3	Total				146862
	Overhead shipping			10%	14686
	In total, the installation of an underfloor heating system is 1 floor.				161548

Installation of warm water floors is shown in the video: