What to glue glass blocks on. Installation of glass blocks: step-by-step instructions How to properly put a window from glass blocks

Before you start talking about the features and methods of installing glass blocks, it is necessary to mention that all structures made of glass blocks carry mainly decorative, noise, heat and dust protection functions and, in no case, can serve as walls and partitions, which will subsequently be assigned the function of load-bearing walls.

In other words, on the walls made of glass blocks, it is strictly forbidden to lay floor slabs between floors of the building, as well as floor beams, since walls made of glass blocks are not intended for these purposes and cannot bear a heavy load.

Starting our conversation with this question, we would therefore like to immediately protect you from a gross mistake when installing glass blocks, which can lead to very unpleasant consequences, for example, to a partial or complete collapse of your building

Selection of tools and supplies

For successful installation of glass blocks and the manufacture of structures from glass blocks of any size, complexity and variety without any difficulties, you will need a certain set of tools and specific consumables

Expendable materials:

	1. Cement mortar or dry mortar for laying ceramic tiles or porcelain tiles, preferably frost-resistant.    2. Reinforcing rods, designed to reinforce masonry from glass blocks, they perform an additional fastening function when installing glass block structures in masonry. The rods used for these purposes must be made of stainless steel or, at a minimum, must be galvanized so as not to corrode.
	3. Stacking crosses They play a large role in the process of controlling the thickness of the joints between the glass blocks and are stacked at each corner joint. After completion of installation work, they remain inside the cement masonry and are wiped.
	4. Grouting for joints, is intended to fill the joints between the glass blocks and give them the necessary color, since the color range of adhesive solutions on which the glass blocks are laid is very limited and not always acceptable in color to the glass blocks that are laid on them. To grind the joints between the glass blocks, it is recommended to use a moisture-resistant grout, since it is not afraid of the effects of water and can be used both indoors and outdoors.
	5. Silicone sealant in a special tube for fastening glass blocks.    6. Fixing dowels and anchors for fastening frame structures.
Tools for stacking glass blocks:
	1. Level, the longer the partition, the longer the level should be applied, this will increase the accuracy and quality of stacking of glass blocks. The length of the levels produced by the industry ranges from 40 centimeters to 2.5 meters.
	2. A tool for measuring and marking, that is, tape measure complete with a construction pencil with a thick stylus, they come in different colors.
	3. A marking cord for marking and drawing long straight lines, as well as to control the evenness of stacking of glass blocks. This tool necessarily comes with a special marking powder.
	4. A grinder with a flat abrasive disc, designed to cut off excess reinforcing rods. It is advisable to use an abrasive disc with a diameter of 115 mm, as it creates less vibration.
	5. Rubber or foam rubber grater, it is designed for grouting and rubbing seams between the glass blocks, as well as removing residual adhesive after laying the glass blocks.
	6. A trough for the preparation of the adhesive solution, preferably plastic and with a capacity of 5 buckets, that is, for one batch of the solution.
	7. A construction trowel is used to lay the adhesive solution on the surface of stacked glass blocks.    8. Sponges for preliminary cleaning of the stacked glass blocks from the remnants of the adhesive solution and grout.
	9. Electric drill, used for drilling holes for reinforcing rods in cases where installation is carried out in conjunction with wooden elements of the base, as well as for stirring the adhesive solution during its preparation.
	10. The mixer of the right size to mix the adhesive solution.
	12. Rotary hammer, for drilling holes for reinforcing rods in concrete and brick substrates.
	12. Drills for drilling wood with a diameter of 8 - 10 mm.    13. Special drill bits for a puncher with a diameter of 8 - 10 mm.
	14. Rubber hammer, for the correction of the laying of glass blocks, if necessary.    15. A stepladder or portable scaffolding for ease of installation, if it is quite high.
	16. The expansion spatula in size, which is suitable for a certain thickness of the seam for embroidering the seams between the glass blocks.
	17. An expansion blade to remove the adhesive solution from the joints and form a groove for subsequent filling with grout.
	18. Putty knife, to remove contaminants and old materials from the surface of the base.
	19. The gun for silicone sealant, it allows you to freely work with the sealant with one hand.    20. Dry rag, preferably felt or lint, for fine cleaning and polishing of glass blocks.

Methods of installation of structures from glass blocks

There are several methods for installing glass blocks. All of them differ from each other in many parameters, such as: the complexity, aesthetics, cost and speed of work performed on the manufacture of structures from glass blocks.

The traditional method of laying glass blocks

it is the cheapest, simplest and fastest way, but it is also not the most aesthetic, which is its biggest drawback in comparison with other methods of installing glass blocks.

In the manufacture of the partition by the traditional method, you must first clean the surface of the base of the walls, floors and ceiling in the place where the partition will be made of chalk, dust, linoleum, parquet and other contaminants and old materials.

The next stage of work is the marking of the future structure directly on the surface of the bases around the perimeter with the help of a level, a construction pencil and a marking cord. All necessary data and measurement results are applied directly to the surface of the base in those places where they were obtained or will be used at the time of installation of glass blocks.

After carrying out the marking work, it is necessary to start the manufacture of glue, on which the glass blocks will be laid.

In the traditional method of laying glass blocks, as a rule, either ordinary cement mortar (in the proportion of 1 bucket of cement + 3 buckets of fine-grained pure river sand + 1 bucket of clean water) is used, or, in the best case, an ordinary dry mortar for laying tile or for brickwork.

In the case of using a conventional cement mortar, it is recommended to add 200 grams of PVA glue to 5 buckets of the ready-mixed mortar in it when stirring to increase the ductility and adhesion of the glue.

When using ready-made building mixtures, this does not need to be done, since they already include all the necessary components, that is, adhesives and plasticizers.

When installing glass blocks, it is desirable to use white gluing solutions so that the glass blocks themselves do not change color, and when using solutions based on white cement, more aesthetic joints between glass blocks will be obtained in the future.

Mix the adhesive solution you have chosen for laying thoroughly in a special convenient, preferably plastic, dishware using an electric drill and mixer of the right size to a creamy consistency and leave it to “ripen” for about 3-5 minutes.

After “ripening”, mix the solution thoroughly again and it is ready for use.

Properly prepared adhesive solution should not be very thick, but it is not allowed to run off from a construction trowel at the time of laying glass blocks.

It is not recommended to use a solution diluted after drying to lay glass blocks, since all the adhesives available in this solution are already cristolized, and the solution itself has lost its adhesive properties.

The installation of a partition from glass blocks begins with the laying of the first two reinforcing rods on the base of the floor.

The rods used to reinforce the masonry of glass blocks must be made of stainless steel or galvanized to avoid, firstly, the appearance of rust, which in the future may protrude from the outside of the masonry and spoil the appearance of the structure, and secondly, when the reinforcing rods are corroded, the structure is weakened .

To lay the first reinforcing rods, it is necessary to drill holes in the wall, which then will include the first two rods. The holes should be drilled at the very junction of the wall and the floor according to the dimensions of the inner walls prepared for laying glass blocks.

Reinforcing rods, with this manner of laying, will serve as embedded elements along the entire height of the laid out structure.

In addition to the horizontal rods, vertical reinforcing rods must also be laid after each stacked glass block and holes in the floor must also be drilled to engage the floor base.

If you imagine this design in finished condition without glass blocks, then it will be a metal grid of steel rods in which glass blocks are laid.

After laying the first two rods with a trowel, apply glue solution on the surface of the base and spread it evenly over the entire surface intended for installation. Accurately stack the glass blocks by simultaneously inserting vertical reinforcing rods into the prepared holes in the floor and filling the joints with adhesive mortar between the glass blocks, controlling their thickness with the help of special crosses that fit into each corner joint between the glass blocks.

Special crosses ensure the same seams between the glass blocks and at the end of installation work remain walled up in the glass block masonry.
   In the traditional method of stacking glass blocks, only 3 to 4 rows of glass blocks are allowed in one approach.

Since ordinary cement mortar dries relatively slowly, it is necessary to allow it to dry for at least 12 hours between each subsequent installation.

After the completion of each installation, it is necessary to remove all excess adhesive solution from the surface of the glass blocks with a sponge or rag and to free the interblock seams from excess solution with the help of a trowel.

If this is not done in a timely manner, then after the solution dries, you will get unsightly seams and dirty glass blocks, which are very difficult to clean.

If you plan to wipe the seams between the glass blocks with colored grouts after laying, then you do not need to use the trowel, you need to free the grout joints with a special spatula, creating recesses in them for filling with grout.

When the installation work is nearing completion and it is necessary to lay about 3-4 rows of glass blocks up to the ceiling, it is necessary to do the same work with the ceiling as the floor, that is, drill holes in it at a certain size to fit the remaining final vertical reinforcing rods and continue laying of glass blocks until the installation is completed.

After the completion of the installation of the partition from the glass blocks, it is necessary to clean or embroider all the newly made joints from the adhesive solution and first wipe the surface of the glass blocks from the adhesive solution.

A completely finished construction should completely dry, until the adhesive mixture completely dries, at room temperature this period can be about 5-10 days.

To reduce the drying period, you can use special building dryers or, as they are also called, building hair dryers, which by increasing the ambient temperature reduce the drying time.

After the final drying, it is necessary to grout the interblock seams with grout; grout is usually applied to the color of the glass blocks themselves; this material is offered in a wide color range.

It is advisable to use a moisture-resistant grout, because it does not wash out with water and will serve you much longer than a regular grout, given that you will have to wipe your partition during cleaning to keep it clean.

The grout is applied to the surface of the masonry of glass blocks using a foam grater diagonally and rubbed into previously prepared recesses of the seams until they are completely filled. After grouting of all joints, it is necessary to remove all excess grouting from the surface of the structure with a damp sponge or rag.

After the partition dries from wet cleaning, it is necessary to bring its surface to perfect condition by rubbing the surface of the glass blocks with a dry, clean rag. This operation will ensure the final erasure of small grout residues and give the glass blocks perfect shine and cleanliness.

Perhaps, after rubbing the partition with a dry rag, you can say that your partition is ready for use.

Arched walls and partitions

When installing walls and partitions from glass blocks that have rounded shapes, all stages of the installation work are identical to those described in the section on the traditional installation of glass blocks.

The difference in laying in this case is that the reinforcing rods are bent at the curvature of the partition in its shape, that is, they duplicate the curvature of the wall.

In this case, the suture crosses are placed in the laying of glass blocks only inside the rounding in order to comply with the thickness of the inner seams. Outside the curvature of the wall, the seams automatically assume the same width, which depends only on the radius of curvature of the partition.

No need to worry if you notice that the second half of the suture crosses, or rather their thickness, does not coincide with the thickness of the outer seams between the glass blocks.

The outer part of the crosses regulates only the horizontal seams between the glass blocks. It is recommended to use half glass blocks of the same color to perform the rounding fragments of the walls, since, firstly, a larger number of vertical reinforcing rods will be used at the rounding points, which will give your partition additional strength, and secondly, through the use of smaller glass blocks it will be possible reduce the discrepancy between the thickness of the inner and outer seams.

Frame method for installing partitions from glass blocks

This method of installing glass blocks is technologically more complicated than the traditional one. It is also more expensive and, naturally, aesthetically looks more impressive than its traditional version.

The advantage of this method is that its use practically does not use cement adhesive, and the design itself is much easier.

Installation work begins with measuring the dimensions in the place where the partition of the glass blocks will be mounted.

Based on the obtained dimensions and linear dimensions of the glass blocks used, a wooden frame is made from dry boards of the desired size and thickness.

In the manufacture of the frame, it is necessary to very accurately observe all the cells into which the glass blocks will then be inserted and attached.

The discrepancy between the cell sizes and the dimensions of the glass blocks used is not more than 2 mm. The smaller the gap in the cells, the better the work will be done on the installation of glass blocks.

The main difficulty of this method of installing glass blocks arises precisely in the manufacture of a frame system, since this process requires increased attention when performing measurement and computational work. The process of manufacturing the frame itself does not give the right to the slightest mistake, since this will negatively affect the appearance of the entire mounted structure in the future. The frame is assembled by gluing or screwing with special hardware.

The frame is made only of polished dry boards.

After making the frame, it must be painted in the color necessary for the design with the use of a thin layer of paint and, of course, dried to dry completely. The painted frame is installed on a pre-prepared place and, with the help of special dowels or anchors, is attached to the walls, ceiling and floor.

After making sure that the frame is installed evenly, correctly and reliably fixed with the help of anchors to the walls, ceiling and floor, installation of glass blocks begins.
   Glass blocks are inserted into each prepared cell and, thus, gain the entire partition completely.

After collecting all the glass blocks into the cells, it is necessary to fix them with colorless silicone, applying it at the junction of the glass blocks and the wooden frame in order to prevent the glass blocks from falling out of the frame.

Silicone colorless sealant is almost invisible on the surface of any color and does not spoil the appearance of the entire partition structure after drying.

Sealer completely dries in about 8 hours. After complete drying, the silicone resembles a hardened transparent rubber.
   After the silicone sealant has dried, it can be considered that the structure is ready for use.

In places where glass blocks are joined with drywall, a normal putty should be used. Silicone sealant leaves traces on drywall when dry.

Glass blocks are used not only for the decoration of industrial buildings, they are used in a modern interior, they perform various decorative inserts or completely walls. The material is made of glass mass, it is transparent, which allows more light to pass into the room. Inside the blocks are hollow, the glass thickness reaches 7 millimeters. Using modern glass blocks, you can create an original interior, they are used to create columns, partitions, wall and ceiling inserts are made.

Characteristics of glass blocks

Glass blocks can have different colors and textures; they come in a transparent or multi-colored look, matte and decorative type, that is, with patterns. The material may have a different shape, rectangular square, triangular, also glass blocks are end, corner or in the form of columns.

Thanks to the glass material, the blocks are transparent, non-combustible, and have an aesthetic appearance. A vacuum is created inside the blocks, due to this the material is considered energy-saving, and also it performs heat-insulating functions. The glass block is in good contact with water, so it can be used to decorate pools and damp rooms.

The glass block also has a high rate of sound insulation, fire safety, the material is environmentally friendly, and not picky in cleaning. If damage occurs to one unit, it is not necessary to disassemble the entire surface, it is enough to replace the element or a separate section.

Glass blocks are resistant to low temperatures, a special material is also made that can withstand a significant load.

The surface of such a material does not require further finishing, for example, plastering, painting or gluing wallpapers. To clean the blocks from contamination, they can be washed with plain water or various glass detergents.

Glass stacking methods

Let's consider how to put glass blocks. The material can be laid in three ways. The first method is time consuming and resembles brickwork. First, the place of the proposed design is cleaned of contamination, after which the adhesive mixture is prepared. To connect the glass blocks with each other, you can use special compositions or adhesive mixtures that are suitable for ceramics.

Then two rods are laid on the floor surface, which are made of stainless steel, they serve as reinforcing material. Special holes are made in the wall where the ends of the rods are inserted. After that, holes are made in the floor, and the rods are fixed vertically. The blocks are laid according to the type of brick laying, the seams must be expanded, and the material itself must be cleaned of mortar. The surface is left up to ten days for drying, and then the seams are rubbed with a special composition to the color of the blocks.

In the second method, styling is carried out using a solution, in order to ensure that the distance between the blocks is the same, use special crosses. First, the first row is laid using the level of the building type and lighthouses, crosses and bars, which serve as reinforcing material, are placed between the glass blocks. Using a spatula, a solution is spread on the surface of the stacked row and the side, then the block is pressed to the crosses. Excess solution is removed from all compounds, and after drying grout is performed. At the final stage, the surface of the blocks is washed with a sponge.

The third method of laying occurs using a special frame, while cement-type solutions are not used. First, the frame is made of wood or plastic, the cells of which correspond to the size of the glass block. The finished frame is fixed on all sides with screws to all adjacent surfaces, that is, the floor, and the walls. A glass block is placed in each cell, and its fixation is carried out using special inserts made of rubber or sealant. When using rubber gaskets, the blocks can be easily pulled out and interchanged if necessary. The frame can be of any shape, square, rectangular or in the form of steps.

The frame can be made not only of plastic or wood, for its manufacture also take aluminum or polyurethane in a soft form. Such walls will not have high sound insulation, they are used only as decorative elements.

What is the texture of glass blocks?

Glass blocks may differ in appearance. Their textured surface can be smooth, embossed, light-scattering, that is, matte inside or out, and light-guiding, namely embossed on the inside.

In order to increase the permeability of light, the ends of the blocks can be coated with an amalgam. The ends of the euro glass blocks are coated with white paint. Thus, after their installation, the solution will remain invisible. Also, sometimes a hole is made at the ends to fill the block with paint.

The advantages of glass blocks

1. The material is durable and reliable, resistant to moisture, low temperature, and fire.
2. The glass block has a high light transmitting function, due to this, the room can be made visually spacious and bright.
3. Using this material, you can give the interior an original design.
4. Glass blocks can have various sizes, shapes and colors, this allows you to combine material and get an unusual surface.
5. Thanks to tightness, the internal space is not polluted, and the external surface is easy to clean with a sponge.
6. The material has high thermal and sound insulation, it is capable of absorbing noise, is fireproof, environmentally friendly, resistant to humidity and subzero temperatures.
7. The surface made of glass blocks does not require subsequent finishing.

Adhesive method for laying glass blocks

1. A block located on the edge is fixed horizontally on the rail.
2. To connect vertical surfaces, special dividing strips are used.
3. Before starting laying the second row, the horizontal guide is again installed, it is attached to the wall.
4. Glue can harden both quickly and for a long period, it depends on its type.
5. At the end, grout all the compounds with the necessary color, and then wash the blocks from the solution that has fallen on them.

Laying glass blocks on cement mortar

1. The solution must be spread not only on a horizontal surface, but also on vertical walls.
2. Using the level of the building type measure the evenness of laying.
3. In order to strengthen the structure, reinforcement with rods is performed.
4. After the solution solidifies, the seams are overwritten with the necessary color, and the surface is washed away from contaminants.

Basic rules for stacking glass blocks

1. The solution used for laying glass blocks should not contain large grains of sand, otherwise the product may be scratched.
2. As soon as the solution dries a little, the dirt from it must be removed so that the surface has a beautiful appearance.
3. If the material is smeared with grout, then it must be removed in a wet form until the stains have dried. For this, acetic acid is used.
4. When laying glass blocks of opaque appearance, the protective film is removed after all joints have been grouted.
5. The rod for reinforcement should only be galvanized or steel, its diameter reaches 6 millimeters. The rods are arranged vertically and horizontally. Iron will quickly become worthless, that is, it will become corroded by a thin layer of solution.
6. At one time, it is possible to stack glass blocks no more than in three rows so that the structure does not move and does not bend. Glass blocks can be knocked out with a rubber mallet.
7. If external walls are laid, then their area should not be more than 15 m2, otherwise the bottom row of blocks may burst due to significant weight.
8. Since built-in surfaces are made of glass blocks, some support should be located at their edges.
9. In the manufacture of the frame, the cells must correspond to the size of the glass block, a permissible deviation of 2 millimeters. The void on top is filled with sealant or a rubber gasket is laid.

With the help of glass blocks you can get the original surface, their installation does not require special knowledge, it can be done independently. The material is easy to care for, and has several advantages; it differs in the original decor in the interior.

Glass blocks are elements with a hermetic empty space, which is created by connecting two glass plates (semi-blocks). In its form, the block is similar to an empty brick inside and in its design is a bit like a window pane. The air inside the glass block gives the material high soundproof and heat-saving characteristics.

The surface of this element is matte, completely transparent and even colored. The weight of each glass block is 1.5–4.3 kg. Most often, rectangular or square glass blocks are made. Glass blocks can still be angular (for finishing columns or corners), triangular and end (for finishing the edges of piers).

Glass blocks are no worse than glass to let in daylight; as a result, there is no need to install familiar windows in a wall made of glass blocks. In addition, glass blocks are much stronger than ordinary glass. For this reason, they can be used to make internal partitions and even be used for the facade of a house. But in this case, it is better to use translucent glass blocks.

A wall made of glass blocks, unlike a wall made of drywall or brick, does not need to be stuccoed, pasted with wallpaper or painted, caring for them is unusually simple - washed and ready.

Positive properties of glass blocks

Walls made of glass blocks can withstand significant temperature changes without damage. These products are very durable: they are not afraid of even a small earthquake. In order to damage a quality glass block, it is necessary to use a rather heavy object, for example, a sledgehammer. This applies to ordinary glass blocks, and there are also bulletproof ones.

Using glass blocks

Glass blocks are used in the construction of sections of curtain walls, which are not transmitted high load. Such walls are very convenient in factories, plants and enterprises, which require a large amount of light, but you can not use ordinary windows or it is difficult. Slots are made of glass blocks on the staircases - it is also very practical and convenient (difficult to break, at the same time it passes a stream of light). And glass blocks are increasingly used to decorate the interior.

Block Installation Process

Glass blocks are often placed on a cement mortar, as well as a simple brick, but you need to remember that they are made of durable, but still glass, and they must be handled with care.

Glass blocks are sometimes protected by a special film. It should not be removed before installation, as sometimes inexperienced masters do it, but only after installation is complete. And if you bought unprotected glass blocks, then before work it is better to protect them with tape.

The cement mortar used for laying should not contain large particles so that the surface of the blocks is not scratched. If it happened that the solution got on the surface of the glass block, it is necessary, without waiting until it sets, wash it off with water. Otherwise, you will have to clean it with a knife or a metal brush that will definitely scratch the glass.

How to install glass blocks quickly and smoothly? For this, it is better to use special crosses made of plastic. With their use, the laying of glass blocks will advance faster, and the wall surface will be neat - the same distance between the glass blocks will remain.

After laying the walls of glass blocks, you need to take care of cement joints. After all, the gray color of the joints can disfigure the appearance of the entire surface. You can, for example, wipe the seams with special mixtures that are used for tiles. And it will be much better to put glass blocks on cement with pigment. Such pigments can be purchased separately and added to regular cement.

Photo of glass blocks in the interior

Video

We bring to your attention a video that shows the technology of stacking glass blocks.

Glass blocks are used not only for the decoration of industrial buildings, they are used in a modern interior, they perform various decorative inserts or completely walls. The material is made of glass mass, it is transparent, which allows more light to pass into the room. Inside the blocks are hollow, the glass thickness reaches 7 millimeters. Using modern glass blocks, you can create an original interior, they are used to create columns, partitions, wall and ceiling inserts are made.

Characteristics of glass blocks

Glass blocks can have different colors and textures; they come in a transparent or multi-colored look, matte and decorative type, that is, with patterns. The material may have a different shape, rectangular square, triangular, also glass blocks are end, corner or in the form of columns.

Thanks to the glass material, the blocks are transparent, non-combustible, and have an aesthetic appearance. A vacuum is created inside the blocks, due to this the material is considered energy-saving, and also it performs heat-insulating functions. The glass block is in good contact with water, so it can be used to decorate pools and damp rooms.

The glass block also has a high rate of sound insulation, fire safety, the material is environmentally friendly, and not picky in cleaning. If damage occurs to one unit, it is not necessary to disassemble the entire surface, it is enough to replace the element or a separate section.

Glass blocks are resistant to low temperatures, a special material is also made that can withstand a significant load.

The surface of such a material does not require further finishing, for example, plastering, painting or gluing wallpapers. To clean the blocks from contamination, they can be washed with plain water or various glass detergents.

Glass stacking methods

Let's consider how to put glass blocks. The material can be laid in three ways. The first method is time consuming and resembles brickwork. First, the place of the proposed design is cleaned of contamination, after which the adhesive mixture is prepared. To connect the glass blocks with each other, you can use special compositions or adhesive mixtures that are suitable for ceramics.

Then two rods are laid on the floor surface, which are made of stainless steel, they serve as reinforcing material. Special holes are made in the wall where the ends of the rods are inserted. After that, holes are made in the floor, and the rods are fixed vertically. The blocks are laid according to the type of brick laying, the seams must be expanded, and the material itself must be cleaned of mortar. The surface is left up to ten days for drying, and then the seams are rubbed with a special composition to the color of the blocks.

In the second method, styling is carried out using a solution, in order to ensure that the distance between the blocks is the same, use special crosses. First, the first row is laid using the level of the building type and lighthouses, crosses and bars, which serve as reinforcing material, are placed between the glass blocks. Using a spatula, a solution is spread on the surface of the stacked row and the side, then the block is pressed to the crosses. Excess solution is removed from all compounds, and after drying grout is performed. At the final stage, the surface of the blocks is washed with a sponge.

The third method of laying occurs using a special frame, while cement-type solutions are not used. First, the frame is made of wood or plastic, the cells of which correspond to the size of the glass block. The finished frame is fixed on all sides with screws to all adjacent surfaces, that is, the floor, and the walls. A glass block is placed in each cell, and its fixation is carried out using special inserts made of rubber or sealant. When using rubber gaskets, the blocks can be easily pulled out and interchanged if necessary. The frame can be of any shape, square, rectangular or in the form of steps.

The frame can be made not only of plastic or wood, for its manufacture also take aluminum or polyurethane in a soft form. Such walls will not have high sound insulation, they are used only as decorative elements.

What is the texture of glass blocks?

Glass blocks may differ in appearance. Their textured surface can be smooth, embossed, light-scattering, that is, matte inside or out, and light-guiding, namely embossed on the inside.

In order to increase the permeability of light, the ends of the blocks can be coated with an amalgam. The ends of the euro glass blocks are coated with white paint. Thus, after their installation, the solution will remain invisible. Also, sometimes a hole is made at the ends to fill the block with paint.

Glass block advantages

1. The material is durable and reliable, resistant to moisture, low temperature, and fire.
2. The glass block has a high light transmitting function, due to this, the room can be made visually spacious and bright.
3. Using this material, you can give the interior an original design.
4. Glass blocks can have various sizes, shapes and colors, this allows you to combine material and get an unusual surface.
5. Thanks to tightness, the internal space is not polluted, and the external surface is easy to clean with a sponge.
6. The material has high thermal and sound insulation, it is capable of absorbing noise, is fireproof, environmentally friendly, resistant to humidity and subzero temperatures.
7. The surface made of glass blocks does not require subsequent finishing.

Adhesive method for laying glass blocks

1. A block located on the edge is fixed horizontally on the rail.
2. To connect vertical surfaces, special dividing strips are used.
3. Before starting laying the second row, the horizontal guide is again installed, it is attached to the wall.
4. Glue can harden both quickly and for a long period, it depends on its type.
5. At the end, grout all the compounds with the necessary color, and then wash the blocks from the solution that has fallen on them.

Laying glass blocks on cement mortar

1. The solution must be spread not only on a horizontal surface, but also on vertical walls.
2. Using the level of the building type measure the evenness of laying.
3. In order to strengthen the structure, reinforcement with rods is performed.
4. After the solution solidifies, the seams are overwritten with the necessary color, and the surface is washed away from contaminants.

Basic rules for stacking glass blocks

1. The solution used for laying glass blocks should not contain large grains of sand, otherwise the product may be scratched.
2. As soon as the solution dries a little, the dirt from it must be removed so that the surface has a beautiful appearance.
3. If the material is smeared with grout, then it must be removed in a wet form until the stains have dried. For this, acetic acid is used.
4. When laying glass blocks of opaque appearance, the protective film is removed after all joints have been grouted.
5. The rod for reinforcement should only be galvanized or steel, its diameter reaches 6 millimeters.

   Installation of glass blocks

   The rods are arranged vertically and horizontally. Iron will quickly become worthless, that is, it will become corroded by a thin layer of solution.

6. At one time, it is possible to stack glass blocks no more than in three rows so that the structure does not move and does not bend. Glass blocks can be knocked out with a rubber mallet.
7. If external walls are laid, then their area should not be more than 15 m2, otherwise the bottom row of blocks may burst due to significant weight.
8. Since built-in surfaces are made of glass blocks, some support should be located at their edges.
9. In the manufacture of the frame, the cells must correspond to the size of the glass block, a permissible deviation of 2 millimeters. The void on top is filled with sealant or a rubber gasket is laid.

With the help of glass blocks you can get the original surface, their installation does not require special knowledge, it can be done independently. The material is easy to care for, and has several advantages; it differs in the original decor in the interior.

Instagram

Hello! For the construction of partitions indoors, glass block is increasingly used today. Such designs look aesthetically pleasing and stylish, they transmit light and therefore do not visually clutter up the space, performing the zoning function. Another plus of the material is absolute resistance to moisture and aggressive environments, and the installation of glass blocks is not very difficult work. But here's how to properly stack glass blocks, read below.

Tools and materials

To install the glass blocks, you will need:

• tape measure, construction level, marking pencil, construction square;
• special crosses for laying glass blocks and plastic wedges for leveling the floor;
• a grinder or nippers (for cutting crosses, cutting reinforcing bars), an electric drill, a drill on tile or concrete 6 mm and a whisk;
• white tile adhesive, fiberglass reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm, a container for the preparation of glue;
• medium spatula, beta-contact primer, masking tape, sponge and quick-setting glass glue;
• glass block and end glass decorative strips.

Preparatory work

First of all, you should decide on the size of the partition. Please note that its width and height will depend on the dimensions of the selected blocks, since the elements cannot be cut to size. The standard glass block format is 19x19x8 cm or 24x24x8 cm, but manufacturers can offer other options. The thickness of the glass block usually varies between 7-10 cm. In addition to solid blocks, a number of manufacturers also offer "halves" - blocks half the width of the standard.

The market offers a wide selection of colorless and painted glass blocks, smooth and with a raised surface, as well as elements with decorative content. When buying, make sure that the blocks are of the same size, check for cracks, chips and scratches.

Before starting work, lay the future partition on the floor if you decide to use blocks with different decorative designs. Choose the appropriate arrangement of decorative elements and draw a diagram so that you don’t confuse anything during installation.

At the preliminary stage, you should mark on the wall and floor. Be sure to check the verticality of the lines. Stick masking tape on both sides along the marking, if there is a fragile decorative finish on the wall (paint, wallpaper), then inside the resulting strip, the width of which is equal to the thickness of the glass block, it is better to remove it, but do not touch the wall tile and floor covering. The gap between the strips of masking tape is primed with a “beta contact” to provide the necessary adhesion with tile adhesive. Glass blocks are laid after the primer has completely dried.

Installation instructions for glass blocks

Knead the adhesive according to the manufacturer's instructions using a drill with a whisk. Part of the crosses for glass blocks oriented on all 4 sides, trim so that they can be installed right next to the wall and floor.

The technology of laying glass blocks requires particularly careful approach to the installation of the first block adjacent to the wall. It is exposed using a building angle and level. The glass block must be placed strictly vertically, strictly under 90 ° to the wall, otherwise the geometry of the entire partition will be disturbed.

The first block is set using cropped crosses. The reinforcement bar is placed on it to mark the place on the wall where the hole for the reinforcement fasteners will be made. The same mark is made on the floor, under the reinforcing bar, which will be located vertically. Then the second block of the horizontal row is set (using cropped crosses) and the second mark for the reinforcement is made on the floor.

Then remove the blocks and drill holes with a depth equal to the thickness of the tile or about 5 - 6 mm if the holes are drilled directly in a concrete wall. A restrictive sleeve made of electrical tape can be wound around the drill. Sweep away dust or remove dust from a vacuum cleaner.

Next, apply a bulky layer of prepared glue on the floor and wall with a spatula, the same glue is applied to the two sides of the block, which will adhere to the wall and floor. A cropped cross is set against the wall, the first block is placed and aligned in level. If necessary, wedges are placed under the unit to level the floor.

A glue layer is applied to the upper and side ends of the installed block. The glue is also applied with a spatula on the floor at the place where the second block will be installed, and on the two ends of the second block. Then, a vertical reinforcement bar is inserted into the prepared hole in the floor and the second block is installed, close to the first. Do not forget to put crosses under it. Next, a horizontal reinforcement bar is inserted into the hole in the wall, which rests on the first two blocks.

Check the location of the second block with a level, remove excess glue near the floor and wall with a spatula, you can also use a damp sponge. Apply glue to the horizontal surface of the second block, fixing the reinforcing bar. Then, according to the same principle, the third block of the lower row is placed - after the installation of the second vertical reinforcing bar.

The next stage is the preliminary installation of the first block of the second row (on crosses) to mark the place of the hole for horizontal reinforcement. Remove the block, cover the surface of the lower block with cardboard and drill a hole in the wall. Carefully remove the dust box and mount the unit by applying glue to its bottom surface and the butt adjacent to the wall, as well as to the wall surface itself.

Fit to the end the entire bottom row of blocks (pre-marking and making holes for vertical reinforcement), as well as the second horizontal row. Use crosses and check the vertical and horizontal design. If necessary, use plastic wedges to align the bottom row.

When the entire structure has been laid out, carefully remove excess glue and its traces on the surface of the blocks with a damp sponge. After the adhesive has completely dried up, it is necessary to break the outer petals of the crosses - the rods that specify the thickness of the seam remain embedded in the masonry.

Note!  It is recommended to lay out no more than 5 - 6 rows of glass blocks in one run to avoid increased load on the structure before the adhesive sets. You can continue the construction of the partition the next day.

DIY glass stacking

Vertical and horizontal are checked after installation of each row.

At the final stage, the open side end and the upper surface of the glass block wall are closed with decorative glass strips of suitable width. They are fastened with quick-setting glass glue. At the time of setting the glue, the straps can be fixed with paper tape.

Then the masonry joints must be carefully filled with grout. After it hardens, the partition from the glass blocks is completely ready.

About installation

Installation instructions for glass blocks

according to the traditional laying pattern using SEVES / VETROARREDO / BASIC blocks as an example (vertical wall construction)

Previously, the installation of glass blocks was carried out using a conventional masonry cement mortar with or without coloring pigments, PVA glue for plasticity, or with a ceramic tile / porcelain glue adhesive. However, after the appearance of glue for glass blocks and glass mosaics, we would recommend using it. This dry building mix contains all the necessary components for laying glass blocks (plasticizers, brighteners, etc.) and is freely sold in construction stores. In extreme cases, use a dry mixture for laying ceramic tiles to prepare the adhesive solution.

First of all, it should be noted that the design of glass blocks can only perform the function of the attached partition, and not the supporting one. That is, it is strictly forbidden to mount any ceilings on glass blocks, fixtures for furniture or heavier interior items!

The reinforcement to give strength to the glass wall must be stainless steel or coated with an anti-corrosive compound. It should also be ensured that during installation it does not come into contact with glass. Diameter 6-8 mm.

Select grout for joints and glue according to the color of glass blocks. Choose moisture-resistant grades of grout.

The construction of glass blocks is not recommended to be erected more than four rows in height per day in order to avoid its distortion due to subsidence on an unstable solution. This rule is best observed even when using plastic mounting crosses and special mounting glue. The glue has a much shorter curing time than cement mortar, but this does not prevent the risk of accidental mechanical stresses on the yet insufficiently strong structure during operation.

If necessary, construction of an area of \u200b\u200bmore than 15 sq.m. it is necessary to provide for the division of the overall structure into parts horizontally and, if necessary, also vertically. Moreover, the length of one section in any case should not be more than 7.5 m, and the height should not exceed 6 meters. Sections should be fixed by supporting steel racks, securely attached to the main walls, floor and ceiling, with expansion joints.

After laying out part of the glass blocks, do not forget to timely remove the excess solution before it hardens from the surface of the glass blocks and clean the seams for subsequent grouting.

Material Consumption:

Cross consumption  calculate according to the diagram in the figure (enlarge the picture with a mouse click)

Consumption of glass blocks 19x19x8 cm  with a seam of 16 mm - 23 pcs per square meter. With a seam 10 mm - 25 pcs. per sq. m

Consumption of glass blocks 19x9x8 cm  with a seam of 16 mm - 46 pcs per square meter. With a seam 10 mm - 50 pcs. per sq. m

Mortar or glue consumption  - 25 kg. per square meter

Consumption metal. rebars 6-8 mm / d  - 12 running meters per square. meter.

Joint expansion joints consumption  (PVC tape, mounting foam, etc.) - based on the length and height of the masonry walls.

Grout Consumption  - based on the masonry area.

Beginning of work:

Using a level, check the horizontal and vertical position of the support surface / mounting surface. Clean contact surfaces. Outline the overall dimensions of the wall (thickness, length and height). Using two wooden slats, outline the boundaries of the base of the wall. At a distance of about 60 - 80 cm, install movable corners to check the verticality of the wall.

Laying:

Take the first glass block and apply the mortar on one side with a trowel. If the glass blocks are covered with a protective film, then you need to remove it not by overlaying, but at the end. Lay the block against the wall, aligning it with the solution. In this case, the side with the mixture is laid on the compensation joint, while maintaining a distance of about 1 cm from it. Fill the created space with a mixture.

Take the next block and repeat the above steps. In this case, the block is laid down with the mixture applied to the previously laid block. Install the first mounting plastic cross between the two blocks. Repeat the operation of laying glass blocks and crosses to the end of the row.

Install the first stainless steel rod in a horizontal position; while the base of the rod is placed in a previously made hole in the wall. After installing the rod, fill the hole with material that eliminates possible displacements. The rod is installed directly on the plastic mounting crosses. At the end of the row, check the verticality and horizontalness of the wall. Provide for the installation of reinforcing bars for both horizontal and vertical clearances, avoiding their contact with glass. If the masonry is done on cement mortar, then it is not recommended to lay out more than three rows of glass blocks per day in order to avoid irregularities in the surface of the structure. The solution should set. Before laying the last row, install a compensation joint near the ceiling. Remove excess mixture between glass blocks, between glass blocks and perimeter structures before hardening begins.

To close the wide and high apertures with glass blocks, to erect structures of a large area, it is better to additionally use side steel U-shaped holders. They will give the glass wall more strength. When using side holders, do not forget to leave a compensation layer of at least 1 cm.

How to put glass blocks

With a masonry area of \u200b\u200bless than 4 sq.m. holders are not needed.

Finishing, polishing, protection:

Before starting plastering work, check whether the mortar is dry. Remove the outer plates of the plastic mounting crosses with a tool that does not leave scratches on the glass surface. Remove the protective film from the glass blocks, if present.

Apply grout with a soft grout to ensure that gaps are evenly filled. Wait until the mixture has set and begin to grind finer with a damp and clean sponge. If the grout is still wet, start cleaning individual glasses using a clean and damp sponge or soft rags. It is often necessary to rinse them in clean water and try not to scratch the glass.

To remove possible streaks or stains of the solution, hardened on glass blocks, use diluted hydrochloric acid (for example, hydrochloric acid, anti-lime or the like) or acetic acid (for example, white wine vinegar). At the same time, make sure that the solution does not fall on the seams, and take the necessary personal safety measures.

Do not use oily solvents, hydrofluoric acid or high alkali solutions (such as soda or the like) for cleaning. After cleaning the wall and completely drying it, seal the perimeter points of contact with the wall with the appropriate material to prevent water from entering.

For the same reasons, protect the wall from water penetration by applying a silicone-based waterproofing liquid to the gaps. These liquids are completely transparent and provide another guarantee of the durability of the glass block surface.

Note: when laying glass blocks with a satin surface, the protective film should only be removed at the time of sealing the joints. Possible adhesive residues from the film can be removed with warm water and a small amount of soapy foam. If it is difficult to remove them, it is possible to use acetone or acetylene trichloride using a non-abrasive sponge. Regarding the use of waterproofing mastics based on silicone and sealants, carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Glass unit connection with door:

In a shower or other place where it is necessary to install an entrance in a glass structure, U-shaped metal profiles should be used to fasten the door on the sides of contact with the glass blocks.

Absorbing material with a thickness of at least 1 cm must be embedded in the profiles. When laying glass blocks, it is necessary to accurately calculate the dimensions of the doorway. Profiles are attached to the door frame in advance.

To prevent rough mechanical impact on the glass wall from slamming the door, be sure to install a braking device for the door leaf.

To prevent damage to the glass surface from knocks by the door handle when the door is opened excessively, be sure to install the latch for the extreme position of the door leaf when opening.

Do not use heavy metal doors for use when entering the partition from glass blocks. Glass walls are not intended for permanent rough mechanical impact on them.

Laying out curved surfaces:

Non-straight glass surfaces can be laid out using the Posavelox system from Italian manufacturers. In fact, this is a constructor and you can figure it out yourself without difficulty. We will consider more traditional styling using the same consumables as when laying straight surfaces.

The main difference between the structure of straight and curved surfaces is that it is necessary to bend reinforcing bars at the joints of glass blocks along a given radius. Mounting crosses in this case fix the glass blocks vertically only inside the curve. The outer part fixes only horizontal gaps. With a small radius of curvature, whole glass blocks can be used. When making smooth angles or laying out a surface of small radius, glass blocks - halves are used. This approach avoids ugly wide seams from the outside.

To bend the reinforcement, use any simple template that allows you to give the same angles. Thinner reinforcement can be used than when laying straight surfaces. This will facilitate the work and will not harm the structural strength, since the curved surface itself is more durable and stable.

Frame method of installation of glass blocks:

This method facilitates the construction of glass blocks, makes it easy to disassemble, reconstruct, replace elements. Aesthetically, this design is largely winning. But there are also disadvantages - this is impractical for rooms with high humidity, a more expensive installation.

In accordance with the size of the room and the size of the glass blocks, a frame is made of dry polished boards. Each glass block has its own cell. The clearance should not exceed 2 mm. The frame is glued or screwed onto the hardware. Naturally, it is difficult to make such a frame without the necessary carpentry, you have to order it.

Further, the frame is painted in the color appropriate for the design, dried and screwed to the floor, ceiling and walls on the anchor. Next, each glass block is inserted into each cell (of course, starting from the bottom), fixed with a colorless silicone sealant at the places where the glass block contacts the frame. After the sealant has dried, the structure is ready for operation.

Instead of sealant, rubber inserts can also be used. This will further simplify the replacement of glass blocks if necessary. On sale you can find ready-made wooden modules (frames) for the installation of glass blocks. Special rubber pads are included there.

  2365 views

If you still associate this material with unpresentable glass squares from the recent past, it's time to get to know it better. The scope of modern glass blocks is almost unlimited, design solutions are practical, beautiful and original, and dIY installation of glass blocks  can be completed even without special skills in construction.

Modern glass blocks are a hollow material, which is formed of two glass plates with a thickness of 6-9 mm, hermetically connected by pressing. Now they are produced on automatic lines, which guarantees the invariability of the qualitative composition of the glass melt and the tightness of the seam.

  Glass block can be:

• transparent;
• matte;
• color;
• corrugated.

  According to their light-optical properties, they are divided into:

• translucent
• light scattering;
• light guides.

The thickness of the tiles is 7.5-10 cm, weight within 4.3 kg. In addition to standard square and rectangular blocks, they produce triangular, angular, round and half elements. There are also decorative glass blocks. They are presented in a wide range of colors and textures, which allows them to be used in various interior styles.

Glass blocks in the interior of the bathroom

ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES

Like any other material, double-glazed windows have their pros and cons. This, in turn, affects the possibility of their use for certain purposes.

Benefits

• Moisture resistance.
• Light transmittance.
• Soundproofing.
• Fire safety.
• Frost resistance.
• Easy to care.
• It does not require additional decoration.

disadvantages

• The wall remains holistic. It is impossible to drive a nail or screw into it, as well as to conduct a wiring or sewage system inside.
• Glass blocks are not processed. It is impossible to cut them to use the required size. All measurements must be calculated in advance.
• In the room where the window opening is glazed with glass blocks, it is necessary to carry out additional ventilation systems.

Glass blocks in the interior (entrance hall)

  OPTIONS FOR USING GLASS BLOCKS IN THE INTERIOR

Not so long ago, glass blocks returned to fashion and began to be used everywhere in interior design. With their help, you can implement the most daring and original ideas, it is beneficial to play with the light. Glass blocks in the interior of the apartment use photos in the creation of walls, partitions, windows, furniture and much more.

GLASS WALL

During the redevelopment of apartments, it is often necessary to remove or move some walls. This helps to plan the space and create a convenient arrangement of rooms. Glass wall is an original and interesting solution. Visually, it facilitates the space. Only one drawback in this option. The glass block itself looks cold and does not contribute to the creation of comfort. Therefore, it is often combined with other materials, for example, drywall or using multi-colored elements. This combination allows you to make the interior more interesting.
  This type of decor is especially popular in corridors, vestibules and other darkened rooms, where a wall made of glass block will be not only a functional element, but also an additional light source. Glass blocks will look great if the interior of the apartment has the opportunity to lay out a rounded wall as in the photo.

Glass blocks in the living room interior (semicircular shape)

PARTITIONS

Partitions of varying complexity, width and height from glass blocks are often installed in the bathroom. Glass here looks the most harmonious, goes well with tiles, is not afraid of moisture, is not affected by fungus and is easy to clean. Glass frosted blocks allow not only zoning the space and organizing the so-called intimate zones, but also creating practical showers of the desired size and shape from glass blocks. A small rest can advantageously divide the kitchen into the working and dining areas, and the living room into a bedroom and a living room.

WINDOW

Stelkobok windows

This method of connecting the external and internal space through transparent glass or frosted blocks is best suited for bathtubs and pools. As a decorative element, a glass panel is made in the form of a window. If desired, it is decorated with light curtains. Glass blocks in this form are laid not only in the bathroom. Original windows can separate the living room or kitchen with a corridor. When glass blocks are used as windows, openings usually take on the most incredible forms.

FLOORS

Glass block floors

The strength of the material allows the use of glass blocks with a rough texture as a floor covering. Under such transparent areas, they usually place a backlight, the effect is impressive.

Do not lay glass blocks in the bathroom or hallway on the floor, here their surface can become dangerously slippery.

FURNITURE

Glass block furniture

Modern glass "bricks" are a convenient and practical material for creating furniture designs. Islands or bar counters are built in the kitchens. In the bathroom, you can erect a console under the sink, and a narrow wall of glass blocks can smoothly transition into a small functional table. Glass furniture looks impressive and original, but it will be difficult to rearrange.

SEPARATE DECOR ELEMENTS

Elements of furniture and decor from glass blocks

Decorating the walls of rooms, glass blocks are often placed pointwise. Recessed into the wall, they do not transmit light, but they reflect it very beautifully. One tile is placed on an approximate area of \u200b\u200b1 m ?. Options for using the material are limited only by the imagination of the designer. Glass tiles decorate the kitchen apron, frame door and window openings, mirrors. Spread from them the risers of stairs, catwalks and even false fireplaces. The shower cabin from glass blocks of the photo looks interesting, as proof.

GLASS BLOCKS IN DIFFERENT INTERIOR STYLES

Glass blocks in the LOFT style

When designing a room, it is important to consider that glass blocks should harmoniously fit into the style of the room and create a single composition with it. Particular attention should be paid to the color and texture of the building material, to choose the right shape and method of construction. The most harmoniously transparent or monotonous glass block looks in modern styles, urban, loft or hi-tech. Decorative baroque or art deco can emphasize multi-colored tiles, as an addition to the main material. Stained glass will best fit into the interior of art nouveau; they will also be appropriate in oriental stylizations and modern classic interiors. Almost do not use the material in the interior, made in the style of country, rustic or retro.

  INSTALLING GLASS BLOCKS OWN HANDS

Having mastered the theory, you can safely begin to practice. Installation of any element from glass blocks can be performed in one of two ways:

• on the frame;
• on glue or mortar.

Regardless of the method chosen, before proceeding with styling, you need to consider a number of features of working with the material.

• The floor on which the glass blocks will be laid must be perfectly even and clean.
• The total area of \u200b\u200bthe wall should not exceed 15 m ?, otherwise the blocks in the lower rows due to the large weight can crack.
• Any wall made of decorative glass block cannot be used as a carrier.
• The protective film of frosted glass blocks is removed only after filling the seams.

TECHNOLOGY "ON THE FRAME"

Installation of glass blocks on the frame

This installation technology is quite simple. It is sometimes called dry. The glass block is fixed to special modular systems. This method allows you to quickly lay perfectly smooth walls without plumb and level. Typically, frames are made of plastic or wood, aluminum and polyurethane are also found. Each block has its own cell; its size is selected depending on the dimensions of the glass block. The frame is attached to the wall with screws, also fixed on the floor and ceiling. In the cells, the blocks are fixed by means of special rubber gaskets. This installation method does not require special skills, but is used only to create decorative or indoor partitions where good sound insulation is not needed.

STEP-BY-STEP INSTALLATION OF GLASS BLOCKS ON THE FRAME

STAGE 1: ANGLE CONTROL ON THE FLOOR, WALL, CEILING

STAGE 2: INSTALLING PLASTIC PROFILES AND SPACES ON THE LOWER PART OF THE DESIGN

STAGE 3: INSTALLING GLASS BLOCKS IN A PREPARED PLASTIC PROFILE IN THE LOWER STRUCTURE

STAGE 4: INSTALLING THE MIDDLE PART OF PLASTIC PROFILES BETWEEN GLASS BLOCKS

STEP 5: INSTALLING GLASS BLOCKS TO THE TOP OF THE DESIGN WITH PLASTIC FRAME FRAME PROFILES

STEP 6: GRINDING THE SEAMS WITH A SILICONE PLASTIC AND WIPING WITH A SPONG GLASS BLOCK

GLUE OR SOLUTION

This technique is more complex, laborious and will require some knowledge. Fix the material on a special glue for glass blocks. At the installation site, reinforcement is performed. Two stainless steel rods are laid on the floor parallel to each other. The width between them should be less than the depth of the glass block. Vertical reinforcement is performed in increments equal to the width of the block. For better sealing, an insulation tape is fixed to the frame base. It marks the place of docking of blocks using spacer crosses. After laying each row, the structure is strengthened, two reinforcing rods are laid in parallel and recessed into the solution.

Stacking glass units

The solution is applied to the horizontal and vertical wall of the blocks. The evenness of each row is checked by level. Blocks are displaced by light blows of a rubber hammer. When laying the wall on glue, no more than three rows in height are made per day. Reinforcement is made only of galvanized or stainless steel, with a diameter of 4-6 mm. Some experts claim that the adhesive for ceramic tiles or mortar is also suitable for the installation of glass blocks. The remnants of the adhesive mixture are washed with a soft cloth after drying.

If glass blocks are placed in the bathroom, cement is removed between them to a depth of 10 mm, and dried joints are filled with sealant. Grout is applied on top of it. Stitching is performed after complete drying, usually on the 10th day.

Any elements of glass blocks cannot be an independent design, they need a stable support on the floor and from the end walls.