Wood formation. Processing of products from a tree under the antiquity with their own hands

Wood winning with their own hands is an interesting technology that allows you to artificially be a tree. The natural process of the composition lasts decades. But now, with the help of special tools, it is possible to achieve this effect at home quickly and without significant material spending. The aged material is ideal for decor classic, vintage and rustic styles.

Wood brash do it yourself: How the process is carried out

Residents of modern cities are increasingly in the decoration of the premises prefer styles with brightly underlined individuality: classical, vintage, rustic and country.

The main part of such interiors is a tree. Thanks to this material, the design of the room acquires uniqueness and unique charm. But for a classic and vintage style, a tree is not suitable in a pristine natural form. In this case, the aged tree is best suited, which has a more attractive and noble appearance. Such material is suitable for making any decor element: a vintage lamp, a wooden chest, stylish doors and window frames, fireplace cladding.

In natural conditions, the process of wood shaping is delayed for decades, since the original patterns on the surface of the wood are formed slowly and unevenly. Therefore, this material is rare and expensive. But among modern technologies there is a simple and fast way to artificial aging of the tree. This process is called brushing. Interest in this method is not only lovers of elite vintage furniture, but also want to diversify the inner interior of country houses.

Wood formation with their own hands (brash) is a decorative technology for processing wooden products, in the process of which an artificial effect of antiquity is created for a conventional wooden surface. The method received its name from the English word Brush - brush. Also, the process of constitution is called wood structuring.

The method of artificial wasting is based on the difference in the hardness of the layers, of which wood consists. During operation, a soft light layer is removed. As a result, the plots become embossed, which gives the material a special kind, inherent in only quite old trees.

Types of safe finishing materials for finishing the premises, their specificity and features of use, rates.

Process Automation: Machine tools and Wood Braching Machines

Mass production of artificially aged tree requires speed of work. Some stages of wood processing can be mechanized, which will make it possible to simplify the work on obtaining the composition of the wood. To do this, you will need a drill with speed regulation and special brigade machines.

Consider the most popular specialized techniques for wood structuring.

Calculated milling mill or brush machine for wasting a Festool Rustofix RAS 180 tree. Together with this tool, you can buy brushes to brush wood. They are three species:

steel wire brush for primary board processing;
brush with a synthetic pile for intermediate grinding;
sizal or hair brushes for polishing the reverse surface of the product.

Makita 974 grinding machine is used to prevent wood. But during operation, difficulties may occur with the processing of areas on the corners of the part. Therefore, in the joints of the joints it is recommended to use a special angular grinding machine with different nozzles or use a nylon brush dressed on the grinder. Such a brush is characterized by high wear resistance and allows you to handle ends, edges and contours of parts with complex forms.

Felisatti AGF 110/1010 grinding machine is suitable for processing both smooth and uneven surfaces. Included with the tool go nylon and metal brushes.

Helpful advice! To buy wood to film wood makes sense only if large amounts of work are planned. You can buy brushes to buy wood with a typewriter and purchase separately.

How to form a tree with your own hands: technologies

The process of composition opens up before the master the widest opportunities to change the structure and color of different wood rocks. Before proceeding directly to structuring, wood must be prepared. Washing material should be without defects, jar and irregularities, and humidity should be 10-12%, but not more than 15%. If the tree does not respond to these characteristics, then the wood fibers during processing will turn, and the beautiful result from structuring will not work.

Consider in more detail the process, how to form a tree at home. Working with the material can be divided into several stages.

Before starting work, you must perform the primary processing of the part, namely: to moisten the tree. This will prevent the spread of dust on the room during operation.

Next for processing you will need a manual brush. Depending on the hardness of the wood, we select the rigidity of the metal brush for roughing. The tool bristles are obliged to easily remove soft surface fibers, but should not damage solid. Move the brush is necessary in the direction of the fibers.

If you decide to automate the processing process using a brush for wasting wood on a grinder or grinding machine, then it should be remembered that the movements are carried out along the fibers. Move the tool is necessary with such an intensity to effectively scattered fibers.

It is necessary to select speed with care: too large brush tempo can lead to a tree baked. When using a manual tool, this problem does not occur, but the effort needs to be applied more. Also, handling with hands will delay in time.

Helpful advice! Select speed better on a separate small tree sample. The optimal number of revolutions of 1500-2200, but for different breeds it may differ.

Then we carry out the primary grinding of the part. To do this, use a polymer brush with an abrasive applied to it. This stage will remove roughness and scraps of fibers from the surface of the details. Deleting all unnecessary, it is possible to estimate how the wood structuring is deeply and efficiently performed. If necessary, the grooves can additionally deepen, making structuring more distinct.

At the next stage, you can think about the decorative design of the part. For this, the chisel in different places the details are performed and the grooves of arbitrary shape. In appearance, they will resemble the cracks that appeared naturally.

Next, the final polishing is performed. To do this, you will need a sisal or hair brush. This tool for the tree will give the details of the finished look, fully manifested all the decorativeness of the texture. With manual processing, instead of a brush, sandpaper shallow grain paper with an abrasive surface is used. It will make the perfectly polished surface of the workpiece.

Then the wood needs to dry well. It must be completely cleaned from dust and those themselves prepare for further painting and varnish.

Application will allow the product through the creation of contrasting textures. Abundant application of the composition with a rapid removal of excessive will allow to cry out parts with soft fibers and leave light areas with solid fibers. Soft fibers quickly absorb paint, and therefore stains, and solid during this time do not have time to absorb pigment, so they remain light. It is especially beautifully a tree, painted with gold or silver paint.

Against the background of the natural color of the tree, this pigment creates glare on the surface of the part. It gives the product original decorativeness and luxury. Especially presentable the product will look like a tree patting - painting the most deep cracks with darker paint.

At the final stage, the product is again polished to remove the roughness and irregularities that appeared after staining.

Helpful advice! The lacquer coating is carried out in a completely dry and purified tree. For painting of the brushed parquet, you must use a special parquet varnish. This will allow ready-made coverage to maintain a presentable appearance and operational characteristics for a long time.

Braching of wood: Features of chemical structuring of wood

Braching with chemistry is rare, even though the use of chemically active compositions makes much facilitating the process of artificial wood composition. To carry out chemical treatment of wood, it is necessary to have special knowledge and skills to work with chemicals. In addition, the method has a drawback - it is not always possible to easily buy the necessary reagents.

For chemical structuring of wood, acids are necessary: \u200b\u200bhydrochloric and sulfur, alkali and ammonia. Reagents, applied to the surface of the material, eat soft fibers. The master remains only to scrape unnecessary wood.

Stages of chemical tree brush:

Grinding the surface and cleaning from pollution.
On the surface of the detail with a thin layer we apply chemicals. During chemical structuring, it is necessary to monitor the evaporation of the reagents. If necessary, it is recommended to apply them again.
When the chemical affects, it will soften the outer fibers, the part must be rinsed under running water and remove the residues of the reagent with a brush with a mild pile.
Next, the tree must be thoroughly dry, paint or varnish.

The availability and demand of the brush allows you to perform this method at home. Performing wood structuring, it is necessary to adhere to the safety regulations. Working with tools and machine to be browning wood should be carefully and carefully. All processes for artificial structuring must be performed in special protective clothing, glasses and gloves. If during operation, antiseptic solutions are used or too much dust accumulates in the air, then it should be operated in the respirator.

The brushing of the wooden surface is an unusual way to make a product of wood more beautiful, unusual and attractive. This method is very popular among interior designers and ordinary people, because artificial aging of the tree will be able to each. It is necessary to spend some time and effort to get a luxurious furniture or a chic original ceiling, stylized under ancient. For a better effect, it is possible to patign the furniture.

Artificial Wood Braching: Work Price

The main task of the tree brimming is to create and emphasize the uniqueness of the surface of the board surface. The result is a material with a clearly shown pattern of natural material. The procedure is suitable for many types of material. The cost of standard brash is 350 rubles. per square. m. When ordering additional painting, the cost increases. The price of work depends on the selected tree of the tree, as well as on the size of the board.

The cost of each stage of artificial aging is usually calculated separately. You can order separately grinding or only impregnation. The most favorable option is the full brash service from the beginning of work and to the final coverage with the purchase of material. It is possible to perform artificial structuring from your material.

Workshops who are engaged in the brushing of the tree perform the individual calculation of the cost of processing depending on the tree of the tree, the size of the product and the list of services.

Braching is performed above any kind of wooden materials:

bar;
lining;

planks;
block house;
planks.

Scope of applying wood structuring technology

The structuring method is very popular in the manufacture of interior items and room elements. Such wooden products will become the original addition of classic and vintage interiors. In addition, the advantage of brash technology is the possibility of self-creating exclusive things. In addition, this method refers to the category of simple processes available to each.

The brashing board is drawn up fireplaces, shelves, columns, wall panels, as well as aged tree used as ceiling beams. This material creates a unique entourage living room and halls, cafes and restaurants. The interior design is filled with aristocratic and luxury, as well as aged tree creates heat and comfort indoors.

Stylishly and sophisticated wooden furniture with the use of brachified elements. Artificial aging and painting of the tree with their own hands allows you to make absolutely any furniture: cabinets, dressers, rings, beds. The use of the design elements in the design of furniture and the interior of the marriage elements does not have restrictions and prohibitions - it all depends on your imagination and creativity.

The need to obtain the effect of old wood can be caused by several reasons. For example, the desire to issue (furnish, separate) the room in the original style, personal preferences of the owners, the lack of funds for the purchase of antiques or some other considerations. The tree can be completely used and with your own hands, if you understand the existing technologies. This article will open several secrets as appropriate wood processing to give it the type that is necessary for a particular interior.

Methods of artificial aging of sawn timber, so the author will not separately negotiate, which may be needed from tools and preparations when implementing one or another. After reading each of them, the reader will understand, confirming with its capabilities that it will be necessary to prepare before starting work.

Main ways of aging wood do it yourself

Mechanical

This technique is called texturing, although it is better known as brashing (from the English Brush - brush). It is she who is the tool with which the tree is successfully styled under the old days. The essence of this method is that the "pulp" is made. As a result, the embossed surface of the sample. Almost the same thing happens with wood over time - in the process of its drying, under the influence of temperature, ultraviolet, humidity and a number of other factors.

For mechanical wood processing with their own hands, the winning is one of the simplest options. But not every breed is suitable for this method of imitation of old wood. The method is because it is called texturing that the main task is to achieve a pronounced material relief.

What is brought by:

larch, pine (and almost all other conifers);
nut;
ash.

Breeds that are not measurable aging:

maple;
fruit trees (for example, cherry) and a number of other (expensive, exotic), less used when finishing apartments and houses.

Technology

For the mechanical method of aging wood will need. The work is simple, only free time and patience is necessary. But this technique is suitable in cases when it comes to a small volume of sawn timol.

If it is required to be a tree on an extensive area, it is more expedient to use EL / drill or an ush ("Bulgarian") with. Since the turnover is already playing here, you should work in protective equipment and comply with limit accuracy. The slightest awkward movement - and the tree may be hopelessly spoiled. It is especially important if the processing is subjected to the finished product - the table, stool, wardrobe and so on.

Chemical aging of wood

Pre-treatment is made by sandpaper with abrasive large fractions.

Option 1

Applying over the entire area of \u200b\u200bammonia solution. It is quite suitable and the finished ammonia alcohol, which is inexpensive. He causes a darkening of a lumber, giving him noble and originality. As a result, wood acquires an antique look.

Feature - This aging technology is suitable only for deciduous breeds. The structure contains substances called tanning. It is they who cause darkening of wood.

Option 2.

Using a polymer brush, a "light" surface stripping is performed. The task is to achieve a clearer manifestation of annual rings. After finishing wood, wood is covered with a mourn and varnish of the appropriate shade.

Option 3.

The tree is processed by a mourn. But not any, but necessarily based on water. After it was possible to achieve the necessary wood color, the composition is partially washed off (preferably a damp soft sponge). It is done not throughout the surface, but in its middle part. As a result, the edges remain darker, which is characteristic of the old wood.

Option 4.

Patch. More complex in the implementation of the type of chemical aging, but the wood looks much luxurious, simply imitating antiques. The essence of the methodology is to reject the pores discovered during the mechanical processing against the rest of the surface.

Technology

After stripping the workpiece (concrete segment of the base), the compositions are applied on it under the overall interior. The simplest of them is, although there are special preparations used to patting wood. As a result, they fill the pores that differ from the rest of the structure with a darker shade and contrast. Such work is carried out in several stages and requires a lot of time, since each layer is applied after the final misfortune of the previous one.

When aging a tree, we can simplify technology with your own hands. For this, the material is covered selected in color paint. Without waiting for it when she "grab", you need to remove its top layer. The brush here is useless - it is enough to produce the surface treatment of a "doll" tree of soft tissue or sponge.

Option 5.

Staining. The purpose of this technique is to create on the surface of the wood "propellas", imitating scuffs, which is one of the evidence of the solid age of the lumber.

Technology

It is necessary to pick up two enamels that differ in color and consistency. After the primary staining of the tree it is dried. The second layer is further applied, but it takes more liquid paint. When this layer is strengthened, the sawn timber in separate areas is undergoing eye-grain skurt. As a result, a shapper surface due to the fact that in these places the darkest paint begins to come.

A better effect can be achieved with such an artificial aging technique. For example, identify "false cracks", which will further emphasize the age of the tree. Here you will need the so-called crust lacquer. It should be applied to the primary surface coloring.

Any work with your own hands implies the presence of at least minimal experience. Therefore, it is often not necessary to achieve due results. How to be?

Collect aged wood.
If its surface is bends, depressions, then for these places it is additionally coated with a verse. And in 2 layers. For the first - "water" composition, for the second - on any other basis (gasoline, ligrine, alcohol). After drying the wood is treated with a wax-containing drug and polished.

Thermal aging

In essence, this is a complex treatment of wood.

Stages of work

First - firing over the entire surface or in a separate area. It is necessary to remove the entire "pulp" and a clearer manifestation of the structure, annual rings, bitch, cracks.

Second - mechanical restoration. With the help of a metal brush removes the nagar. In addition, it allows you to achieve the most pronounced tree relief.

The third (not mandatory) - the impregnation of the tree by the verse. Depending on the breed, this often allows you to get a greater effect of texturing. Single-layer coating is quite enough.

Fourth - Applying varnish. If the shaped tree looks great, it is better to use a colorless varnish. His task is to protect the material from the negative impact of the atmosphere. In some cases, the lacquer is made additional tinting of wood, but already color.

The author in practice used different sources of open fire and in the process of training came to the conclusion that the best option is a gas burner. If you work with a soldering lamp, it is difficult to achieve uniformity of the flame. As a result, during aging, the tree appears are puzzled, which are rather difficult to level, and sometimes it is impossible.
Before proceeding to surface treatment, you need to "fill the hand." Therefore, first it is advisable to get at least the minimum experience, training on a throwing lumber. Some wood waste in the farm will always be found.

Restoration of the appearance of wood

With such a necessity, it is necessary to deal with everywhere. If the furnishing site served for a while, and defects appeared on a separate site or throughout the area, the initial decor was lost, it is eliminated relatively easily, with their own hands. In principle, this technology is one of the varieties of aging of the tree.

Operating procedure:

Removal of applied layers (wood stripping to the base). A skin is used. The grain size is selected based on the complexity of processing.
The bare tree is covered (in 2 layers) acrylic paint (black).
Any furniture has a kind of configuration. Consequently, all protruding places (corners, squeaks, segments around the handles and so on) over time they are abrained. After determining these areas, they are rubbed as paraffin. The candle in the house is easy to find.
Wood staining in the desired color.
After graveling the composition, the paraffin is washed away (believed), and dark paint will appear on the sections treated.
Finish.

The author reminds that the article indicates only the most simple in the realizations with their own hands the methods of artificiallying wood. Them, as well as used tools, preparations, quite a lot. But if the meaning of all technological operations is understandable, it is easy to develop and its own methodology. Specificity of work and local conditions will tell themselves what and how it is more expedient to do.

Actually, the aging of wood process is sufficiently long and depends on the conditions of initial processing, operating conditions and the environment. So I will describe a few species here imitation Old wood and respectively furniture, which is made or done.

You can highlight two directions of artificial aging techniques (composition) of wood:

Mechanical impact on wood

Game with color

Mechanical impact on wood

It can be divided into the following imitation, which in itself does not provide truth and therefore apply in conjunction with the color decision:

* Relief texture of old wood (brash);

* The devastating effects of wood pests (coredists, larvae ...)

Wood blows with a bag / sock / glove with nails

Drilling holes-wormochin and "Drawing" grooves-worm-worker drill 1-5 mm

* random mechanical damage during operation (when carrying furniture, fell, maybe that or broke on the furniture ...)

* Wercts in places of frequent contact with clothes, shoes, hands, and other parts of the body (for example, like old erased wooden stairs stairs)

* Old and hand processing methods:

- "curve" cut

The uneven surface of the tree (can ISM with an abrasive nozzle inactively remove the top layer from the surface of the furniture shield or any wooden billet)

Traces of tool

- "Errors" joiner ...

Game with color

There are such imitation:

* Valuable tree species (this does not apply to aging, but to the game color - quite)

* Wood color changes in unfavorable environmental conditions (darkening, frightened wood texture, wood pollution, "Pathina", Syneva, Run)

* Aging of the paint surfaces themselves (for example, the formation of the network of cracks / equipment Krakl, craklers / or imitation of the LKM)

* Repainting (when the old layers are viewed through the "new" coating ... in the article many photos with her)

* In itself, the use of natural oils and wax can emphasize the "antiquity" of the compiled furniture

And a few more photos of painted wood, which lives outside:

Extreme method - use of the burner. The necessary sites are set on fire to the desired condition and extra "coals" are removed until the desired effect is obtained. Naturally soft fibers burn deeper.

Chemical aging of wood

Of course, there are enthusiasts that etching a tree with active chemicals, like alkali, ammonia and different acids (oak, for example, they advise riding a vitriol). Such processing changes the color and usually "eats" soft fibers of wood, and in solid rocks reveals the pores.

Usually applied in the form of gels, soaked or etched by a couple.

More details you can see here:

Dyes and pigments in combination with varnishes, paints, oils and waxes can be "to develop" wood, both independent methods and emphasizing mechanical "aged" wood. About what oils are polymerized, you can read in the article on the stabilization of wood.

Here is one of successful examples of artificial aging wood (Photo 1200 * 900):

And another selection of real examples of artificial wood aging:

Long promised to tell how to become wood on a specific example. An example is:

1. Creation of the base surface of the mechanical aging of wood:

Smoothing and outflow of sharp corners in the places of likely the most use

This technique is used in other places, anyway, our subconscious associates such places as very worn and old

Application of traces of mechanical processing

In my case, these are traces from the abrasive tool.

2. Grindingsmall abrasive (180) of the whole surface

3. Application of the base lcm coverage.It can be a conventional colorless or fused lacquer for toning. On the photo top board.

This is done so that the tree does not cross and create an intermediate layer for "patina".

The melted varnish is applied, and immediately erasing the surplus with a dry cloth to identify wood texture, mechanical damage and leaving the smears from the rag.

4. More detailed mechanical aging of wood:

Marking and drilling wormochin

Refinement and / or adding major damage (womb, strikes, scratches)

Adding a network of minor damage to the bag with nails, screws, nuts, balls and other metal "garbage"

5. Shangling grinding (400)

6. Application"patins". In quotes, because it is not a patina, but the imitation of old "century" contaminants, which are like a patina formed on the metal

It is applied in the same way as the melted varnish, only more carefully. Must get into all deepening and damage and leave picturesque divorces. "Draw" the darkened areas of the tree near the cluster of wormwort ...

If at this stage, the top layer of the LKM is conded, it turns out such an effect as a second photo. On the third photo the same, but with toning.

7. Shattering grinding (400) and cobwebs of patina at external corners and places of frequent use (bottom board in the photo in paragraph number 3).

8. Applying toned varnish. It is applied creatively to be visible uneven punks and smears.

On the right tinted varnish, on the left "Patina".

9. Shattering grinding (400)

10. Normal protective varnishing with interlayer grinding. You can blunt the paintopult.

11. Application of the divorced "Patina". Rub in all the cracks. We wait until it gets dry and polished the surface by versals so that Patina remains only in damage, deepening and internal angles.

In the second photo on the left, the finished board of the made wood with the "patina", to the right without it.

Ready.

What I remember is still - add. What remember - add also in the comments.

[Comments / Discussion]

Elena (14:04 01/29/2019)
http://master-san01.ru/starenie-drevesiny-svoimi-rukami/#more-34.

Elena (13:53 01/29/2019)
if you take paint to special stores, there can be prompted by the order of work, which is not worth it and how to achieve a certain result. Samples are also available .Http: //master-san01.ru/starenie-drevesiny-svoimi-rukami/#more-34

Andrew (08:39 15.07.2014)
If I understood correctly, then
- First tint the floor in the "ash" color
- then varnish (maybe several layers)
- applying black paint and erasing it with solid wood fibers (or there are special patches that are erased in a dry condition)
- still varnish (maybe several layers)
Specific technique is better to select experimentally with the LKMs that you think to use.

Igor (22:29 14.07.2014)
GOODNIGHT! I got acquainted with your color painting technology
Not yet practiced. I want to ask a specific question how to paint the brushed pine, spruce under the ash with black streaks, Oak, I wanted the bodies clearly expressed and solid structures were whiten how to perform
I'm in the apartment Oak parquet covered with a tanning (walnut) Panotakes Ticurila and then 2 layers of B.ts Lac Selko - the structure was expressed but this is oak but with a pine tree how to be
The inner surface of painting about 250 m2. There is some kind of technology (and preferably budgetary) I need if it is not difficult to promptly prompt in advance.

- It is a long and painstaking process consisting of machining wood and work with paint-and-paint materials. This method is associated with leon42., Member of the Forum "House and Dacha", with naturalness, antiquity, folk culture.

According to leon42.To buy furniture and rebash it with a metal brush - it is still not to form it, but simply scratch or, at best, make a textured surface. Furniture purchased in the store - made from lamellae and "Sleepy" - not suitable for texturing, it looks rather sad and flawed.

leon42 believes that the furniture for the brushing should be coarse and massive, capable of transmitting the natural beauty of the tree.

It is a superficial approach to the formation of a tree, according to the forumchanin, forms many people an opinion on products treated according to this technology, as about the "Furniture of Pogoretsev". Meanwhile, a combination in the interior of aged tree with a metal, stone or ceramics is always a fashionable and stylish technique that allows all the inhabitants of the house as if to touch eternity and feel in the era of the Middle Ages.

In natural conditions over the aging of the tree, the wind and moisture, the sun and temperature differences are working. How to do what happens for many decades, in a few days?

Preparation of material

It is better to use a soft and middleweight wood with a pronounced texture, such as spruce, pine or larch. These wood species have soft fibers, as a rule, in the spring-summer period, when the intense growth of annual rings occurs, and they are more "loose".

A tree with a homogeneous and unspeakable texture like beech and maple for the composition does not fit.

Before working with wood, prepare its surface. Eliminate all defects and pollution, whether traces of sweat, fat or other spots that can manifest themselves during the application of the toning composition. Any products (small architectural forms, furniture, etc.) Process, pre-breaking: you spend less time and you can get brushed everywhere.

Braching

Braching (eng. Brush - "Brush"), or texturing of a tree is to give it a relief characteristic of old wood. At the initial stage, soft fibers are removed from the wood array. There are several processing options: easy-to-form - on the surface is created barely noticeable roughness, or deep and coarse when the depth of irregularities reaches 2-3 mm (for decor elements, sometimes coarse furniture).

You can have any detail, say, the ceiling beam, pre-treated with an ax: Make scubons, shuddered the edges without fears to spoil - no one, besides you, does not know what the result should be. At the same time, you will receive a product with a deep surface microrelief and irregularities on it to 20 mm deep.

Do not forget about the "traces" of the life of bugs and worms. Slimify them before finishing using a drill or bormer. You can also apply simple thread elements: pigtails, dragons, etc. - You will receive the "Scandinavian style".

Grinding: Tools and brushes

In large enterprises, machines and automatic lines are used, where everything is provided - from the feed rate to a powerful dust system. For a regular dachank, such equipment is expensive and, in general, unnecessary pleasure. If you do hard work often, it is better to purchase a brush machine. The most common and publicly available - Makita. The most economical and simple option is "Bulgarian" or drill, desirable - with the possibility of adjusting revolutions.

The whole process of brash can be divided into three stages:

Black sample soft fibers
Grinding
Polishing

Accordingly, each of them needs its brush. At the first stage ( crazenia) Use metal (crawling). If you are making facilities for the street - gazebo, canopy, fence, etc., then most likely it will be your only brush.

When processing a metal brush, a scratch may remain on the annual rings themselves, from which it is difficult to get rid of further processing.

When working with Krestovka, you need to adhere to these rules:

drive a brush along the fibers, otherwise damage annual rings and spoil the wood pattern;
the movement speed of the brush and the pressure must be approximately the same, otherwise the pits are obtained;
the light source should be located on the side of a sharp angle, directing the beam of light across the fibers - so you will better see the treated surface;
do not press the surface strongly, do not overload the engine, otherwise it can cause a premature breakdown of equipment;
the speed of revolutions should not be higher than 3000, better - 2000-2500: the brush can quickly fly out;
be sure to work in glasses, do not neglect and protective gloves: pieces of wires from the brush can fly out a few meters, traumating others;
take care of the protection of the respiratory and dusting organs: even eyelashes are covered during this work, even eyelashes are covered, what to say for the lungs;
a new brush must be "rolling", otherwise it will be strongly "making" the workpiece, after time it will turn the surface to be cleaned;
work only in one direction (rotation), the reverse does not follow - this will "kill" the metal brush;
the humidity of the treated tree should not exceed 15%, otherwise, instead of the textured surface, you will get a mohnato-hairy.

When processing stable and solid wood (larch, oak), be sure to use the dusting systems: the dust of these wood species is considered carcinogenic and can cause lung cancer.

If you want to get rid of the pile and get a better finishYou will need another brush - plastic (nylon), more correctly - grinding disc from polymer-abrasive material. The most common grain size is 120.

Abrasive brush - universal, characterized by a more delicate surface treatment. If you use this brush, without metallic you can do, especially if the element processed needs a delicate processing or if you want to avoid specific scratches left by crafts.

The principle of operation with an abrasive brush is the same as with a metal. The turnover is better reduced to 1500 to extend the life of the brush. Dust when working with a plastic brush - smaller and sticky, so do not forget about the respirator.

Speed \u200b\u200bprocessing specificity:

do not obverse the ribs and corners of the blanks, especially if you do not plan to cover with varnish: they will cling and roll out;
do not take a deep relief on the seats, countertops and other horizontal surfaces - they will make it difficult to clean the surface: stains of spilled beverages, crumbs, etc. will be clogged between the fibers;
in order to prevent the dust clogging and the closure of the rag during cleaning, such surfaces need to be removed by the abrasive brush and fine-grained emery paper.

Final Stage Braching - polishing or small grinding: Performed sesal or other synthetic brushes. You can use fine-grained sandpaper, abrasive sponges, metal wool, removing dust from the finished surface with a wide brush and vacuum cleaner.

Finishing operations

At the final stage, tinting (changing the color of wood for several tones), the patina (underlining the texture of the tree with special compositions, which penetrate the pores, open during the brush), craklers (the effect of cracking and drying), varnishing.

After the brush, the board will look like new, but with a textured surface. To give her an old view, it is covered by various compositions, dark colors look more natural.

It is the correct game with the color of the brushed wood gives it a shape. Plots with soft wood (pores or depressions) are unevenly stained in a darker color, with solid (ridges) - in brighter. Recently, options with light colors and darker crests are popular.

The easiest way - to abundantly apply a dark veil and immediately wipe this section with a cloth or a wide rubber spatula. In the theory, the veil should quickly be absorbed into a soft surface, and on the ridges - slower. However, in practice, it does not happen so much, therefore leon42.stopped in a more complex way: after complete drying, the crests elevated with fine-grained sandpaper. This method requires further treatment with varnish or colorless impregnation, so the opened upper layer remains without a protective coating.

Another option is to use the paint of two contrasting colors: the surface is completely painted in the first color, then apply the second. While the latter dries out, swipe with a wide rubber spatula, removing the surplus of paint and exposing the crests of the first layer.

Proper texturing is simple, but dirty, time consuming and harmful to health process.

As a result of difficult and hard work, you will receive elements of the decor that carry the beauty of the antiquity and at the same time have high strength. Each detail, with love made by her own hands, will be unique.

Based on the member of the Forum "House and Dacha"

Editor: Olga Travina

Wood brash do it yourself: How the process is carried out

Residents of modern cities are increasingly in the decoration of the premises prefer styles with brightly underlined individuality: classical, vintage, rustic and country.

The depth of the brashing board depends on its purpose. If you need to create a deep aging effect, the depth of irregularities and roughness can be up to 2-3 mm. Do not recommend deep wood relief for the floor, otherwise the coating will be very dirty and poorly laundered. The optimal depth is 0.5-0.8 mm.

Tree aged methods: Basic information

Special tools and techniques are used to structuring wood. The basis is the mechanical processing of the tree with special metal brushes, which remove the upper soft fibers. Due to this, the solid surface is clearly visible, forming a beautiful relief. But this is not the entire processing process of wood.

To emphasize the appearance and make the structure more distinct, the material is covered with special paints having natural shades. Coloring is carried out uneven: the depressions acquire a darker color, and the surface of the texture is light. It makes the relief more noticeable.

Helpful advice! To make artificially aged material as much as possible to a tree, the aging of which passed naturally, it is necessary to paint it into gray. At the same time, paint, even until its complete drying, you need to lubricate from the embossed surface. This will create a tree effect, stood under the open-air of about 10 years.

A tree with a fine-fiber and fuzzy pronounced structure is better not to use, since the prevention method is ineffective for such breeds. Does are not suitable for making trees:

maple;

alder;
cherry;
birch;

For wood forming, both soft and solid wood species are suitable. The main requirement is that the material has a clearly expressed texture and looked through layers with different hardness. The best brashing of wood is performed above such rocks:

pine;
ash;
nut;
larch;
wenge.

It is preferable to use wood coniferous wood for artificial structuring. The most affordable is pine. But this tree is not distinguished by a beautiful and unusual pattern. And, unfortunately, the brushing of the pine will not fix this situation greatly. If you use larch and fir, the result from the use of the method will delight the unique pattern and rich texture.

Makeup technology allows you to create unusual textures that are suitable for interiors of different styles. Structured wood is used to create decorative finishing elements, furniture, floors. The brushed furniture looks unique and very beautiful.

Wood aging do it yourself: Benefits of winning

Unlike the natural process of aging, wood structuring contributes to increasing material strength indicators, its longevity. Also, the brash prevents the rotting of the material and damage it from fungi and insects. This is due to the use of special antiseptic agents to protect the wooden surface.

The result of the brash is an excellent appearance of a material that meets the latest fashion trends. Using a variety of tools for wood processing and technology, you can get a lot of exclusive things and interior parts. At the same time, artificial imitation of exotic varieties of wood will be created, the cost of which is significantly higher than the initial price of spent sawn timber.

Wood processing tools: Brushes, machines and cars

At first glance, the process of artificial structuring may seem very difficult. But the method of brushing the tree with their own hands is the most affordable and simple way to visual composition of natural material. This can be done even to an inexperienced master.

To implement this task, you will need a minimum of equipment. In addition, brash technology allows you to achieve an excellent result of both manual and mechanized method. Depending on the selected method, the wizard will need different tools.

Wood Braching: Tool For manual processing

During operation, you will need certain tools for wicked wood.

Metal manual brushes serve for coarse removal of soft fibers from the surface of the part, while leaving the solid is intact. They are used for primary wood processing. The stiffness of the bristles depends on the length of the wire: the more shorter, the hard bristle. At the first stage, the processing is better to give preference to the brush with the most rigid pile. It is desirable that the brush has a wide end part and in shape was close to the roller. This form guarantees more uniform wood processing.

A manual chisel is a tool with which you can apply deep longitudinal grooves of various curvature in wood fiber. When used by using this tool, you can get a maximum realistic material by applying deep cracks.

Emery paper with a large graininess for polishing is used to emphasize the texture of the material by making a natural pattern clearer. To achieve the optimal result, in the process of operation, it is necessary with pressure to move the emery along the fibers. Applying paper with different graininess, you can get a furrow of different depths and degree of severity.

Bulgarian equipped with special nozzles for wood brushing is used at the initial stage for roughing and final wood processing. At the beginning of the work, a metal brush-nozzle is used on the grinder to win wood, at the final stage - with a copper or sisalum pile. The abrasive-polymer brushes are now very popular. Such a tool makes it possible to selectively remove soft fibers without affecting solid.

Helpful advice! If there is no high rigidity brush, then with the help of a grinder, you can trim the pile. Thanks to this, the bristles will become more solid. Selecting the pile of brushes, it is necessary to take into account that the bristles are 7-10 times thinner of the soft fibers of the tree. It is better to apply a brush with a straight pile. When working as an abrasive-polymer brush, it is necessary to ensure that the wood surface is not burned during the robot on large revs.

After the first stage of processing, experts advise to carry out firing of wood with the help of kerosene burner. The gas burner is not suitable for such a job.

The firing kerosene burner will help to perform the following stages of work:

remove fine fibers of the tree;
dry the top layer of wood;
emphasize and highlight the natural structure of the tree.

Process Automation: Machine tools and Wood Braching Machines

Consider the most popular specialized techniques for wood structuring.

Calculated milling mill or brush machine for wasting a Festool Rustofix RAS 180 tree. Together with this tool, you can buy brushes to brush wood. They are three species:

steel wire brush for primary board processing;
brush with a synthetic pile for intermediate grinding;
sizal or hair brushes for polishing the reverse surface of the product.

Felisatti AGF 110/1010 grinding machine is suitable for processing both smooth and uneven surfaces. Included with the tool go nylon and metal brushes.

Helpful advice! To buy wood to film wood makes sense only if large amounts of work are planned. You can buy brushes to buy wood with a typewriter and purchase separately.

How to form a tree with your own hands: technologies

Consider in more detail the process, how to form a tree at home. Working with the material can be divided into several stages.

Before starting work, you must perform the primary processing of the part, namely: to moisten the tree. This will prevent the spread of dust on the room during operation.

Helpful advice! Select speed better on a separate small tree sample. The optimal number of revolutions of 1500-2200, but for different breeds it may differ.

Then the wood needs to dry well. It must be completely cleaned from dust and those themselves prepare for further painting and varnish.

The use of the simulatory will allow the product through the creation of contrasting texture patterns. Abundant application of the composition with a rapid removal of excessive will allow to cry out parts with soft fibers and leave light areas with solid fibers. Soft fibers quickly absorb paint, and therefore stains, and solid during this time do not have time to absorb pigment, so they remain light. It is especially beautifully a tree, painted with gold or silver paint.

At the final stage, the product is again polished to remove the roughness and irregularities that appeared after staining.

Helpful advice! The lacquer coating is carried out in a completely dry and purified tree. For painting of the brushed parquet, you must use a special parquet varnish. This will allow ready-made coverage to maintain a presentable appearance and operational characteristics for a long time.

Braching of wood: Features of chemical structuring of wood

Stages of chemical tree brush:

Grinding the surface and cleaning from pollution.
On the surface of the detail with a thin layer we apply chemicals. During chemical structuring, it is necessary to monitor the evaporation of the reagents. If necessary, it is recommended to apply them again.
When the chemical affects, it will soften the outer fibers, the part must be rinsed under running water and remove the residues of the reagent with a brush with a mild pile.
Next, the tree must be thoroughly dry, paint or varnish.

Artificial Wood Braching: Work Price

Workshops who are engaged in the brushing of the tree perform the individual calculation of the cost of processing depending on the tree of the tree, the size of the product and the list of services.

Braching is performed above any kind of wooden materials:

bar;
lining;

planks;
block house;
planks.