Why do eggplants die after being planted in a greenhouse? Growing Eggplants in Greenhouses: Detailed Instructions

Even experienced gardeners can shy away from such an exotic vegetable as eggplant. Eggplants are quite finicky to grow. Therefore, first you should carefully prepare and understand all the features of caring for it. Eggplant is currently one of the most popular products all year round. This is why it is advisable to grow eggplants in a greenhouse.

Eggplant seedlings grow much slower than pepper or tomato seedlings, so seedlings that will be grown in protected soil need to be sown much earlier - in early to mid-February.

Preparing soil in a greenhouse

First of all, you need to start with preliminary preparation of the soil in the greenhouse on which the eggplants will be grown. Soil preparation begins in advance, namely in the fall. The soil is cleared of the remains of crops grown this year, and watered abundantly several times to wash away the fertilizers. Then disinfection against various diseases is carried out with a solution of copper sulfate at the rate of two tablespoons per bucket of hot water. After the soil has dried, it must be dug up and loosened well. Thanks to this, in the spring it will only be enough to loosen it again, and the preparation of the land will be completed.

As a fertilizer, it is good to use humus manure and dolomite flour, which contains magnesium necessary for eggplants. 2-3 tablespoons of flour per square meter of greenhouse will be enough. In order for the soil to retain moisture, it is recommended to scatter a bucket of brown peat and add 1 cup of old sawdust. It also doesn’t hurt to scatter ash or ashes. All fertilizers are applied per square meter, scattered evenly over the area of ​​the bed and dug up. Sometimes fertilizers are not available in sufficient quantities, so you can add them directly to the hole when planting.

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Growing eggplant seedlings

Appearance of eggplant: 1 - young plant (seedling); 2 - flowering branch; 3 - seed; 4 - 6 - fruits

The next step will be growing seedlings. In order to grow strong eggplant seedlings, you need to purchase good seeds. The most viable seeds are from the varieties Torpedo, Filimon, Prince, Tezka, Robin Hood and F1 Caprice. It should be understood that 50% of the future eggplant harvest depends on the seedlings.

In order to ensure proper temperature conditions, it is recommended to grow seedlings in the warmth of your home. The time to plant seeds comes in early March. It should be remembered that eggplant seedlings do not welcome picking; therefore, the seeds must be sown in separate pots. The most suitable containers should have a diameter of 10-12 cm. 2-3 seeds are planted in each pot, which allows you to safely remove the weakest ones in the future after the first shoots appear.

When using eggplant seeds of expensive hybrid varieties, it is recommended to plant them one at a time in specialized seedling cassettes. After 10-12 days, after the sprouts have sprouted, they must be moved to pots from the cassettes without being separated from the soil. To speed up germination, it is recommended to soak the seeds in a damp cloth (napkin) and place them in a warm place. The temperature of the room in which the boxes with seedlings are kept must be strictly maintained within 21-25 degrees, and at night reduced to 11-15 degrees. Throughout the growth of seedlings, the distance between pots increases. This will ensure the sprouts receive enough light and will cause the stems to stretch.

Also, when caring for eggplant seedlings, it is necessary to maintain soil moisture within 65-80%. This is checked by rolling the earth into a lump: if it does not disintegrate, then the humidity is maintained. In this regard, seedlings need to be watered regularly and quite abundantly. Often, watering is combined with fertilizing. The total number of feedings should not exceed 2-3 times.

All of the above measures are carried out in order to improve the endurance of the sprouts so that in the future the seedlings do not die during transplantation.

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Planting eggplant seedlings

Before planting seedlings in a greenhouse, you need to ensure proper temperature conditions in it. The temperature regime for the soil is 15 degrees, for the air - 18 degrees.

The depth of the hole for planting should be within 15-20 cm.

After such preparation of the greenhouse, it is necessary to plan the beds on the basis that the seedlings will be planted in one line with a distance of 45 cm between them. It is not recommended to plant eggplants in several rows, as their bushes are quite spreading. The leaf span exceeds the height of the stem by 1.5 times. As a last resort, you can plant in several rows, in a checkerboard pattern, only with a gap between rows of 60 cm.

The side shoots growing on the main stem to a height of 60 cm are cut behind the first leaf located above the first ovary.

In order for the seedlings to germinate better, add a handful of ash mixed with the soil into the hole and water generously at the rate of 1.5-2 liters of water per hole. An important point during planting is that care must be taken not to damage the roots. To avoid this, about two and a half hours in advance it is necessary to water the seedlings abundantly, so that the soil from the roots will not crumble. When planting, it is necessary to plant the seedlings to a depth that will be at least 1.5-2.5 cm deeper than the planting in the seedling box. A seedling bush is placed in a hole that has been previously watered with warm water and covered with soil.

After transplanting, the soil must be watered regularly for 2-3 days. This is due to the fact that eggplants have a weak root system located in the top layer of soil and cannot provide water to the main stem. If the weather is hot during this period, it is necessary to create shade for the plants. It is recommended that after transplanting into a greenhouse, feed each plant with 1 cup of black yeast solution.

Transplantation is completed, now you should pay attention to the importance of plant formation, since their shape directly affects the harvest results. Strong, tall plants are the most productive. To form a proper bush, when it reaches a height of 26-32 cm, the upper part of the stem is cut off, which promotes the growth of the bush in breadth, and it begins to branch. As a rule, two stepsons are left on the stem, on which the entire crop will be tied, and all others are cut off.

After the plant has formed and branches begin to form, you need to determine the strongest shoot and leave it as the main one. The second shoot must be pinched above the ovary, leaving only one fruit. On one plant, depending on the planted variety, 6-10 fruits are left.

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Watering eggplants in greenhouses

Before planting, you should pay attention to the ratio of heat and moisture of the soil in which the eggplants will ripen.

Further growth of seedlings depends on proper care for them. This period is the most critical, since eggplants need special care, unlike other greenhouse crops.

Eggplants are picky about watering; they need to be watered regularly, and the water must be heated to 25 degrees. This is due to the fact that their growth requires high soil moisture, otherwise the flowers and their fruits will fall off.

The first watering after planting seedlings can be done after five days, then the frequency is maintained, which is once a week. The main condition for watering is that water should penetrate into the soil no deeper than 20-25 cm. With the appearance of the first fruits, the frequency of watering increases to twice a week; in hot, dry weather, the abundance of watering increases. You need to water the eggplants at the base of the stem, carefully, without wetting the leaves. Sometimes you should use the “dry watering” technique and loosen the soil 4-6 cm deep, about 12 hours after the main watering. Thanks to this technique, moisture is retained in the soil for a longer time, and eggplants grow much better.

The main condition for growing eggplants in greenhouses is maintaining the ratio of soil and air humidity. The soil should have high humidity and the air low. In this regard, watering is carried out in the morning, after which the greenhouse is ventilated.

To prevent diseases of eggplants, especially fungal diseases, regular ventilation will help.

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Temperature conditions for growing eggplants

Since eggplant is an exotic species, it requires a special temperature regime. The most suitable temperature for eggplants should be between 25-28 degrees. A minimum of two thermometers will be needed to ensure constant temperature checks. One must be placed at a short distance from the soil, and the second - above the middle of the greenhouse. Regardless of the ambient temperature, the temperature in the greenhouse should not go beyond 13-35 degrees, otherwise the fruit set and growth of eggplants may worsen or even stop.

It is necessary to take into account the fact that increased air temperature and increased humidity have a beneficial effect on aphid breeding. The most effective way to avoid this is, again, ventilation, but under no circumstances should drafts be allowed. It is recommended to open the frames only on one side.

During very hot weather, ventilation will probably not bring the desired result and will not lower the air temperature, so you should resort to additional watering of the paths in the greenhouse.

Thanks to such a useful invention as the greenhouse, the area for cultivating eggplants seems to be limited only by permafrost. Having grown strong seedlings, all that remains is to transplant them into the garden bed in time, do not forget to water, fertilize, and protect from diseases. But these are small things compared to the luxurious harvest of exotic vegetables that will result.

Eggplants start as seedlings

Eggplants are such heat-loving plants that they are planted in a permanent place only in seedlings, both in open ground and in a greenhouse. It is convenient to sow seeds in ready-made bagged soil enriched with the necessary additives. Before sowing, the seeds are soaked in a biostimulant (Zircon, Energen, Baikal Em, Epin), sown in cassettes with soil or boxes to a depth of 0.5–1 cm, and lightly compacted. Before emergence - this will take approximately 2 weeks - the containers are kept under film at a temperature of +25–28 °C.

Soaking eggplant seeds in a biostimulant before sowing improves germination

When most of the seeds germinate, the containers are moved to a well-lit place, and the temperature is reduced to approximately +20–23 °C. To the credit of eggplants, with some lack of light they do not stretch like, for example, tomatoes, but additional lighting will benefit them. When the first true leaf appears, the seedlings from the box are picked (transplanted) into separate cups or peat pots.

On a note. To reduce stress, plants are sprayed with Epin-extra and Zircon on the eve of picking.

After 1–2 true leaves appear, eggplant seedlings are plucked

1. Before picking, the soil is slightly dried, since it was a ready-made soil mixture, it remains quite loose.
2. The sprouts are scooped up with a rounded-edged tablespoon, moving from the side of the box. Semi-dry soil is light, does not stick together the earth ball, so the hanging roots do not become heavier and do not break off.
3. The plant seems to be “poured” from a spoon into a glass half filled with soil.
4. If the root lobe is too large for a glass, lift the sprout, holding it by the stem, and lay the roots in a spiral in a circular motion.
5. The glass is filled with soil, which is compacted and watered.

During 2.5 months of “pot” life, the seedlings are fed twice to choose from:

• ready-made complex fertilizer (Lux, Orton, Gumi-Omi, Lignohumate Joy);
• a self-prepared complex of 3 g of superphosphate and 1 g of urea or 4 g of Nitrophoska, dissolved in 1 liter of water;
• infusion of ash (1 glass of ash is infused overnight in 1 liter of boiling water, filtered, diluted in 10 liters of water), 20 g of infusion is poured under the plant.

The first time fertilizer is applied 20 days after picking. For seedlings sown in cassettes or cups, the feeding time is counted from the appearance of the first leaf. The second feeding is 20 days after the first. About 2 weeks before planting in a permanent place, eggplants are hardened by ventilating the room at an outside temperature of 12–15 °C. The finished seedlings have thick stems with 5–7 leaves, reach a height of 10–12 cm, and the roots completely entangle the earthen ball.

Strong eggplant seedlings will withstand transplantation better and adapt faster to the greenhouse

When to plant eggplants in a greenhouse

Eggplant seedlings for planting in a greenhouse should be 70–75 days old. The timing of planting on greenhouse beds is calculated according to the opposite. First, determine the time period when the region (region, city, village) becomes warm and the threat of return frosts passes. From this approximate time, the age of the seedlings is counted back. For example, stable warmth occurs at the end of May. The following equation is obtained: May 25–29 (end of frost) - 70–75 days (seedling age) = March 15–19, i.e. eggplants are sown in mid-March. In each region, dates vary depending on climatic conditions. It should be warm enough outside that, regardless of any temperature fluctuations, the temperature in the greenhouse remains +15 °C, and the soil warms up by about 20 cm.

Eggplants are planted in the ground only after stable warm weather has established.

Add a handful of wood ash to the hole, mixing it with soil, pour in 1.5 liters of warm water or a pale solution of potassium permanganate (optional). When planting, eggplants are not buried, sprinkled with soil up to the cotyledon leaves, and pressed with soil. If, after planting, dry, hot weather sets in, the seedlings are shaded with agrofibre and polyethylene until they are fully established. As for watering seedlings, many gardeners advise watering the hole before and after planting.

For information. Some practicing gardeners use the so-called Korean method of planting seedlings. Its essence lies in the fact that plants are planted in beds that have been watered the day before and are not watered for a day or two after that. This is explained by the fact that the earth remains looser and it is easier for the roots to spread out in such conditions.

Wood ash enriches the soil with potassium, which has a beneficial effect on eggplant seedlings

Comfort zone or planting pattern

Eggplant leaves are very large, the plants provide continuous shade, especially varieties with spreading bushes. Therefore, when the plantings are dense, the seedlings are sorely lacking in light and the ventilation between them is disrupted. 45–50 cm are left between adjacent plants in a row. If the bed is designed for 2 rows, the seedlings are planted in a checkerboard pattern with a row spacing of 60 cm.

Good and bad neighbors

If the agricultural technology of different crops is the same, and the pests are different, they will not oppress each other. The best neighbors for eggplants are:

• sweet peppers, because the tastes of both crops in terms of humidity, watering, time of application and frequency of fertilizing coincide. If the beds are located nearby, a distance of 70 cm is maintained between them;
• greens - basil, spinach, onions, lettuce, radishes;
• Chinese cabbage;
• legumes

The close proximity of hot peppers can negatively affect the taste of eggplant fruits. It is undesirable to place beds with tomatoes next to them, because dry air is harmful to them (tomatoes) during the flowering period and the formation of ovaries, as well as during the ripening of fruits. Eggplants will feel uncomfortable next to cucumbers, because cucumbers not only need a lot of water, but also love a humid atmosphere around them.

How to grow vegetables in a greenhouse

It is still possible to create the most comfortable conditions for antagonist cultures (opponents) in a limited area. For example, a couple of eggplants and cucumbers are planted against opposite walls of the greenhouse. Blue ones will do well on the south side, and cucumbers will do well on the north side. If you also need to plant tomatoes, they are separated from the eggplants by a row of cucumbers.

The proximity of eggplants to antagonist crops in the same greenhouse is possible when placing them in different zones

If possible, the greenhouse space is zoned using film, hanging it along the bed. If the greenhouse has 2 doors, the film is hung across - moisture-loving tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage are planted on one half, and eggplants, peppers and herbs are planted on the other.

Video: planting eggplants in the ground

Growing eggplants in a polycarbonate greenhouse

The honeycomb structure of polycarbonate seems to be specially designed for greenhouses for heat-loving crops. The air layer conserves heat, transparent sheets allow light to pass through, and the internal coating of some samples prevents the formation of condensation. The material is light and can be processed, so you can make a greenhouse yourself.

The thicker the polycarbonate sheets, the better they retain heat, therefore, fruiting is prolonged.

A polycarbonate greenhouse is ideal for growing eggplants

Greenhouse preparation

Agricultural work is completed, the harvest has been harvested - it’s time to prepare the greenhouse for next spring. Consumables in the form of stakes, garters - cords, ropes, utility furniture, containers, and equipment are removed from the room. They do not leave old things for storage, organic remains (tops, spoiled fruits) - anything inside or under which fungi, harmful bacteria, pest larvae, etc. find refuge. Periodically check the safety of the coating and supporting structure. In spring, wash the walls and ceiling with any neutral product, such as laundry soap. After outbreaks of diseases, the inside of the structure is treated with a steam generator or bleach, which is washed off with clean water. After drying, the object is ready for use.

Disinfection

Treatment of a greenhouse with sulfur bombs is carried out as a last resort, because their repeated use has a detrimental effect on the polycarbonate coating.

Disinfection is carried out if:

• crops with common pests and diseases were grown for several seasons in a row;
• an epiphytoty (the same as an epidemic in humans) of fungal and bacterial diseases was observed nearby;
• insecticides did not help;
• A difficult-to-remove spider mite was spotted.

The work is carried out at the end of the current season around the end of September or in the spring 2 weeks before planting the seedlings. The air temperature during processing should be +10 °C. In the spring, if the groundwater is high, wait until the ground dries to a depth of 10 cm. Otherwise, sulfurous acid penetrates deep into the soil and destroys beneficial bacteria.

Gas disinfection with sulfur bombs is used infrequently, as it destroys the greenhouse coating

For gas disinfection, sulfur bombs are used, which consist of tablets with wicks. The instructions for the checker describe the method of its use and dosage. For example, one 300-gram “Climate” block is enough to treat a greenhouse with a volume of 20 m 3 . After disinfection, the beds are watered with solutions of biological products prepared according to instructions: Emochka, Organic-Balance, from the BakSib K series - Baikal EM-1, Siyanie.

Important! They light sulfur bombs while wearing a gas mask, then leave the greenhouse, leaving the windows and doors tightly closed.

Soil disinfection

If greenhouse soil is contaminated with late blight, nematodes, clubroot, or rot, it is disinfected. The most gentle disinfection methods include:

• watering - with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), a fungicide (Aktara, Fundazol) or a microbiological preparation, for example, Fitosporin;
• heat treatment - using a steam cleaner, the internal walls and supporting structures are treated; pour boiling water over it and cover the ground with film (it helps against clubroot and late blight). Unfortunately, beneficial microorganisms die along with the eggs and larvae of pests, so after treatment, the beds are watered with biological products and the soil is “diluted” with humus;
• freezing - remove the top layer of soil about 30 cm, pour it into bags that are stored outside all winter;
• a natural method (conditional name), which uses environmentally friendly ingredients - sawdust or manure plus biological products. In the fall, before digging, 4–5 kg of manure or rotted sawdust is added to each square, watered with a solution of a biological product prepared according to the instructions, and covered with several layers of film. The soil is enriched with beneficial bacteria, and most fungal spores die.

Treatment of the internal walls of the greenhouse - prevention of the spread of soil diseases

After all the activities, before planting, 2 ½ or ¾ buckets of brown lowland peat, 1 cup of ash and 1 tbsp. are added to the ground per 1 m2. l. potassium sulfate. If there is not enough fertilizer to scatter over the bed, they are applied to the hole. Heavy loam in the beds is generously seasoned with compost and rotted manure at the rate of 10 kg per 1 m2.

Caring for eggplants in a polycarbonate greenhouse

The microclimate in the limited space of the greenhouse is specific: the air stagnates and overheats, high humidity, condensation forms on the inner surface. Since eggplants need abundant watering, a lot of light, heat and a minimum of moisture in the air (up to 70%), there are still some peculiarities in agricultural technology.

How to maintain a comfortable temperature

Pollination and formation of eggplant ovaries occurs at an average temperature of +25–28 °C, plus or minus a few degrees. At +15 °C and below, eggplant development stops, and above +34–35 °C, pollination and formation of ovaries stops. Temperature control is carried out using two thermometers - closer to the ceiling and in the ground. To make the room cooler, it is ventilated by opening transoms and windows, and only on one side, because drafts are contraindicated for eggplants. If the greenhouse has two entrances located opposite each other, do not open both doors at the same time to avoid turbulence. This phenomenon is known to everyone who has ever been in a walk-through yard - random air currents tear hair, raise dust and debris from the ground. In a ventilated room, normal air humidity is maintained and there is no condensation, which leaves cloudy stains on the walls or drips from the ceiling onto the eggplant beds.

In a greenhouse, sharp gusts of wind threaten to knock down a plant or break stems or leaves.

There are several other ways to reduce the temperature in the greenhouse, especially in calm weather. Some of them seem strange, but in practice they give good results:

1. Watering the paths between the beds. Energy is spent on evaporation of moisture and it becomes cooler.
2. The outside of the greenhouse is sprayed with chalk, which is then washed off with water from a hose.
3. If the greenhouse is not high, cover it with lutrasil, spunbond, a special shading mesh or ordinary white fabric. Sunlight is dispersed and does not oppress plants. The edges of the fabric are attached with clothespins to the ends of the greenhouse or weighted with slats.
4. In a room with a high arch, an additional frame is installed above the beds, onto which the same covering material is stretched.
5. If the greenhouse is oriented from south to north and the woven covering does not help, the southern end is covered from top to bottom with sheets of cardboard about halfway. It is enough to determine which plants growing closer to the end are exposed to the hot rays. In lean-to greenhouses located from west to east, the southern wall is partially covered with cardboard.

Photo gallery: ways to protect a greenhouse from the sun

A shading agro-net for a greenhouse protects from the bright sun. Partial shading with an agro-net disperses sunlight inside the greenhouse. If the greenhouse is high, a lutrasil canopy is installed under the roof of the greenhouse

Watering

Tap water is not suitable for irrigation at all; it is better if it is settled and warm - approximately +25 °C. Cold water - tap water, and especially well water or from a well - is not absorbed by plants; they experience a kind of shock. A trolley, plastic containers, a children's pool, or a dug tank are suitable for this purpose. Water should wet the ground to a depth of 20 cm, where most of the roots are located. They try to leave the plants dry, because eggplant leaves are covered with small hairs and water droplets do not roll off, and excess dampness is a paradise for fungus. It is convenient to water from a watering can with a long spout, a bucket under the root, and a drip irrigation system is simply an ideal option.

The drip irrigation system in the greenhouse is optimal for eggplants

A sharp temperature contrast between water and soil plus some stagnation of air contributes to the disease of plants and fruits with gray mold, fusarium, late blight, and the appearance of spider mites.

Water and fertilize eggplants in the morning. During the day, the soil dries out enough to allow the crust on the surface to be broken down in the afternoon. Loosen the soil no deeper than 3–5 cm, so as not to tear the roots, which are located close to the surface. Loosening prevents the evaporation of moisture from the soil, which is why this procedure is also called “dry watering.” Mulching the beds with straw, old sawdust, cardboard, peat, grass without spikelets, and humus will help reduce the amount of loosening and weeding. Thanks to morning watering, the air in a closed greenhouse space maintains optimal humidity, which is extremely important for eggplant.

Watering schedule:

• after planting - 4–6 days, when the seedlings have taken root;
• during the period of growth, flowering and fruit formation - once a week;
• during fruiting - twice a week, and even more often in hot weather.

A watering can with a long spout is convenient for watering eggplants at the root

Feeding

During the season, eggplants are fertilized 3-4 times. Do not forget that a large amount of organic matter fattens the plant, so priority is given to complex fertilizers. When the fruits set, eggplant needs potassium. If flowering leaves much to be desired, the plant is sprayed with boric acid (1 g per 5 liters of hot water).

Approximate feeding scheme:

1. The first time is 2–3 weeks after planting the seedlings. Use ready-made complex fertilizer (Kemira, Agricola, Gumi-Omi, Mortar) or Nitroammofoska (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water, 0.5 liters each) at the root.
2. The beginning of flowering, the appearance of buds - take a complex fertilizer or mixture: for 10 liters of warm water, potassium chloride + 20 g of ammonium nitrate, 50 g of superphosphate. Apply 0.5 liters to the bush.
3. When forming ovaries - nitrogen-phosphorus (superphosphate and ammonium nitrate, 1 tbsp per bucket of water) or mullein 1:10, 0.5 l per bush.

Agricola complex fertilizer increases the resistance of eggplants to fungal diseases

Do not forget about folk recipes, such as green fertilizer made from fermented grass (nettle has no competition here) and based on yeast. To prepare it, dissolve 100 g of fresh yeast and 2 tbsp in a bucket of warm water. l. Sahara. The fermentation process takes place within 3 hours, after which the solution is ready for use. Dosage: 250 ml per bush.

Green fertilizer from fresh nettle increases productivity

Formation of eggplants after planting in a greenhouse

Low-growing varieties do not need to be formed; nature took care of this itself. Dried leaves and damaged fruits are removed from them. Medium and tall eggplants are tied to trellises so that the shoots do not break under the weight of the fruit. Formation is carried out 2 weeks after transplanting the eggplants into the greenhouse. Weak plants form 1–2 weeks later.

In one stem

This formation is used for dense plantings, in which the usable area is used to the maximum if low-growing varieties or greens are planted nearby. It turns out to be a multi-tiered bed. Forming into one stem helps to “stretch” a weak plant. The absence of side shoots does not take away nutrition from the main stem, which has a positive effect on its growth and the quality of the fruit.

How to form into one stem:

1. All side shoots and ovaries are removed up to the 3rd or 4th leaf.
2. At the level of the 6th–8th leaf, the stepsons are pinched and half of the ovaries are left.
3. From the 10th leaf and above, a leaf with an ovary is determined, above which the side branches are pinched.
4. Above the 10th leaf, shoots with an ovary are left on two leaves, at the top - on three.

How to form two stems

When the eggplant reaches a height of 30–35 cm, pinch off its top, which stimulates the active growth of side shoots. A fork of two strong shoots is left, and the leaves, stepsons (side shoots), and ovaries growing below are removed. On the remaining shoots, the stepsons and some of the ovaries are removed. For example, from an inflorescence consisting of 5 flowers, 3 are removed.

How to create a bush with several stems

As in the previous case, pinch the top of a plant 30–35 cm high, leave a fork in the shoots, freeing the lower part of the stem from vegetation. On each shoot fork, leave one stepson, pinching the rest after the second leaf. The ovaries are not touched. With each new branch the procedure is repeated. A month before harvesting, the top shoots (growth points) are pinched so that all the fruits have time to ripen.

The formation of eggplant bushes is carried out only for medium and tall varieties

Features of growing greenhouse eggplants in the regions

The further from the southern fertile regions, the more popular early ripening varieties are. The agricultural technology of the little blue ones is the same for any region, the main difference is the timing of sowing the seeds and planting the seedlings in the greenhouse.

Greenhouses near Moscow

In the region, it is customary to plant seedlings in an unheated greenhouse at the end of May. The following varieties received good reviews among local gardeners:

• Bagheera - can be stored for a long time without compromising quality, the fruit weighs up to 350 g;
• Balagur - medium-sized, not damaged by root rot;
• Sophia - mid-season, few thorns, fruits are not bitter;
• Epic is an early fruit, resistant to the tobacco mosaic virus, the taste of the fruit is incomparable.

The little eggplant secret is to water them after August. At this time, the contrast between hot days and the temperature of the earth, which does not have time to warm up, increases. Watering from the afternoon or very early time is postponed to approximately 10 am with mandatory ventilation.

The pulp of eggplants of the Bagheera variety does not have a bitter aftertaste

Siberian eggplants

The following varieties have become truly Siberian:

• Swan - yellowish fruits, with a unique yield - up to 18 kg per 1 m 2;
• Matrosik - resistant to mosaic, without bitterness;

Swan eggplants have an unusual color

Specifics of Ural eggplants

Although in the Urals eggplants are grown both in greenhouses and in open ground, the first method is preferable. Popular varieties in the region include Rotunda, Donetsk Harvest, Delikates Gribovsky-752, and Dwarf Early-921 (the growing season is only 85–95 days). The threat of return frosts passes only at the beginning of summer, so around June 10–12, the seedlings can be transplanted into the greenhouse. If the weather is favorable, in the twentieth of July the first fruits are already harvested in the greenhouse; an average of 4–8 kg per 1 m2 comes out. For comparison, eggplants in open ground begin to ripen only in mid-August.

Eggplant variety Dwarf Early-921 has good yield and disease resistance

Precision is not only the politeness of kings, but also of a real gardener. Agrotechnical techniques carried out exactly on time will be the key to a good harvest. Growing eggplants in a greenhouse is similar to growing them in open ground. The undeniable advantages of greenhouse cultivation are protection from bad weather and prolongation of fruiting.

Growing eggplant is not very easy, as evidenced by reviews from experienced and novice gardeners. By analyzing the problems they had to face when growing vegetables in a greenhouse, many cases can be avoided and even boast of a decent harvest by following the rules of care, watering and growing properly.

Growing eggplants in open ground or in a closed greenhouse becomes a real challenge for every gardener. Not everyone is able to pass it, especially when it comes to cultivating vegetables in the Urals or Siberia.

The harsher the climate, the more unprofitable agricultural technology, because the culture develops well only under a certain temperature regime. It is impossible to do without a heating system in a greenhouse, which means that the gardener has another cost item.

There is no need to worry about the possibility of cultivating the southern fruit in the conditions of the middle zone and Siberia. Thanks to the painstaking and long-term work of breeders, it was possible to develop varieties that are resistant to cold and disease.

Among the popular hybrids are: Sailor, Robin Hood, Almaz, Albatross, etc.

Basic requirements for growing in a polycarbonate greenhouse

Agricultural technology for eggplants is simple, but has some peculiarities.

The main secrets include:

• correct selection of variety (the product range for greenhouses includes more than 20 varieties of vegetables, characterized by cold resistance);
• greenhouse design must have windows to be able to change the temperature regime and carry out ventilation;
• To maintain temperature, the greenhouse is equipped heating system(for regions with harsh climates);
• daylight hours for the plant should be within 12 hours, if there is a shortage of lighting, it is recommended to install daylight lamps;
• watering is carried out warm water(24 degrees), irrigation should begin on the 5th day after planting, try not to spray the foliage;
• the soil must be fertilized and the structure loose;
• at the flowering stage, excess flowers are removed (normalization of the fruiting process);
• As the culture develops, systematically introduce nutritional supplements.

How to choose a greenhouse for planting outside open ground

The best option is a greenhouse or greenhouse made of polycarbonate, it can protect eggplants from freezing and provide enough light and is easy to make with your own hands. On sunny days, the material warms up well, which reduces heating costs.

Used as an additional insulating layer internal lining with anti-condensation film.

Eggplants do not have tall bush growth, so there is no need for a large structure; just choose an easy-to-maintain option with indicators from 1.8 to 2.5 m.

In regions with harsh climates, a greenhouse is better install on foundation, a lightweight design with a depth of 20 cm below the ground level is sufficient. The frame can be made of either wood or a metal profile. The presence of vents to regulate temperature and ventilation is considered mandatory.

When calculating the profitability of a greenhouse, you need to take into account that 3-4 plants are placed per 1 m2.

The yield indicated on the seed label is actually lower, so the figure is reduced by 20-30%. The number of bushes planted depends on the area of ​​the greenhouse where they will grow. If it is built specifically for planting vegetable crops, then both the parameters of the material for the cladding and the ability to create an optimal temperature (heating) are taken into account.

In the greenhouse 2x3m can be planted 18-24 seedlings eggplant.

Correct time to disembark

Eggplant seedlings are planted in open ground only when when the danger of night frosts has passed. This period in the middle zone accounts for for the second half of May - early June.

In the greenhouse, work begins earlier, since the presence of a shelter prevents young shoots from freezing at sub-zero temperatures, and the daytime sun will warm up the walls of the structure and create the necessary conditions for the development of the crop. When planning planting dates, the characteristics of the greenhouse and the climate of the region are taken into account.

If seedlings are grown on an industrial scale, then sowing is done from mid-February to the first ten days of March. At least 65 days pass before the seedlings are transferred to the garden bed, which means that transplantation can be planned at the beginning of May. The timing of sowing and transplanting can be shifted by 7-10 days if certain conditions exist.

You can plant eggplants in heated greenhouses in the second half of January. With this schedule, the transplant dates are shifted to the beginning of April. This technology is not cheap, so first it’s worth calculating the profitability.

In the Moscow region, blue seedlings are transferred to greenhouses until May 10-15. In the Krasnodar Territory and Siberia, these events are planned for the second half of May, and sometimes the beginning of June.

What scheme should I use to plant seedlings?

When planting seedlings, the main thing is do not allow the beds to become crowded, this leads to a decrease in yield and an increased risk of infection with fungal diseases.

Per 1 m2 is placed about five plants in heated greenhouses, no more than three– in unheated structures. When forming beds in rows, adhere to the following intervals:

• row spacing – 60-65 cm;
• the distance between the holes in a row is 30-35 cm.

The depth of planting seedlings is 15-18 cm. Favorable temperature conditions for the adaptation of young shoots correspond to 18-20 degrees(on soil at least 15 degrees).

For varieties with spreading bushes, a pattern with a staggered arrangement of holes (60 cm interval) is more suitable. Low-growing plants are planted in 2 rows with a row spacing of 65 cm, the distance between bushes in a row is 40-45 cm.

Caring for the first shoots

After germination, seedlings need special conditions and temperature conditions. 18-20 degrees.

Lighting

For normal development of young shoots, at least 12 hours of daylight are required.

To ensure this condition, you will need to install indoors fluorescent lamps. Additional lighting should be evenly distributed throughout all containers with seedlings.

Watering

Excess moisture can lead to the death of the plant, so the seedlings are watered sparingly. Regularity of procedures – 1 time every 3-5 days. Water is introduced in small portions into the soil, and not onto the sprouts.

Feeding and fertilizers

The first fertilizing is applied after the first shoots appear. The choice of fertilizer is taken carefully, because the development of the crop depends on its properties.

Some gardeners prefer liquid solutions, for example potassium nitrate (3 grams of product per 1 liter of water). When introducing liquid, try not to get it on the greens, so as not to burn it. An ash solution (a glass of ash per 7 liters of water) is considered no less useful. The Kemira Lux fertilizer (2g per 1 liter of water) has proven itself to be quite good.

The second feeding is introduced after 3-4 weeks. Such products as: Biohumus, Healthy Garden, Bioton have not lost their relevance. They are absolutely safe for the crop, but cope well with the task.

Caring for grown eggplants

Pollination

The culture has bisexual flowers, the pollination process occurs spontaneously. To enhance the effect in the morning, you can walk through the rows and lightly shake each bush. More drastic measures for pollination are not provided.

Features of bush formation

To increase fruiting, eggplant bushes need to be pinched.

You can form it in three ways: in one, two and three stems. The plant formation option is chosen solely taking into account the characteristics of the variety. Excess ovaries draw on themselves, preventing the rest of the fruits from developing, so removing them is considered necessary.

When cultivating vegetables in a greenhouse pruning is done 2 weeks after planting seedlings. To do this, all processes located below the first branch are removed. After the formation of 4-5 shoots, pinch the top.

When carrying out this procedure, you can also focus on the height of the bush; it should be within 25-30 cm. For tall varieties, you may need to tie up the bushes.

Watering and necessary fertilizing

5 days after planting seedlings in greenhouse beds, you need to moisten the plants warm water. Carry out further procedures at least 1 time per week, better in the morning. Water is applied at the root of the plant to keep the foliage dry.

To prevent the development of fungal diseases, you need to regularly ventilate the greenhouse.

During the growing season, eggplants are fed 3-5 times. When cultivating vegetables in a greenhouse, it is preferable to use complex fertilizers: Mortar, Kemira universal (1.5 tbsp of product per bucket of water). After the formation of the ovaries, nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizers are used (1 teaspoon of ammonium nitrate, 1 tablespoon of superphosphate per bucket of water).

Organic products are also used for fertilizing, but you should not abuse them, so as not to provoke intensive growth of greenery. Biud is ideal for eggplants (dissolves in water in proportions of 1:20).

Possible difficulties encountered when growing eggplants

When cultivating eggplants in a greenhouse, the following problems may arise:

• yellowing of foliage (the reason most often lies in a violation of the watering regime or the introduction of fertilizer, and disease cannot be ruled out);
• falling of the ovaries (occurs as a result of lack or excess of moisture);
• the bush develops well, and the ovaries are poorly formed (the reason lies in excessive feeding with nitrogen fertilizers or lack of pruning);
• the plant blooms but does not bear fruit (better pollination is required);
• leaves curl (possible reasons: pests, excess moisture, lack of light);
• spots on the leaves (most often caused by direct sunlight);
• weak growth of shoots after transplantation (the slowdown in development is most likely due to the root system, you need to feed it with “Kornevin”).

Harvest and storage

Harvesting is planned during the ripening period of the variety. Technical ripeness occurs 25-40 days after seedlings flower.

There is no need to rely on color; long before ripening, the skin of the fruit takes on the characteristic varietal color. The first clue will be degree of elasticity of the pulp. When you press the eggplant, it will leave a small dent, which will recover very quickly.

Ripe fruits are cut with pruning shears, leaving a tail of 3-5 cm. Choose a cool place for storage. dark place(usually the basement). Vegetables can be placed in boxes in 2 layers. To keep the harvest longer, vegetables are spread with straw or parchment paper. Every 2 weeks it is recommended to do an audit to remove spoiled items from the box.

Eggplants come from hot India. In temperate climates, they succeed mainly in greenhouses.

High-quality seedlings are the key to success

Obtaining an early and large harvest depends on the timing of sowing the seeds. Seeds for seedlings for film or glass greenhouses are sown in February-March. The choice of sowing number depends on the length of the growing season, that is, how many days pass from germination to harvest. There are varieties of eggplants that begin to bear fruit after 90 days, and there are late-ripening varieties that bear fruit after 140 days or more.

When choosing a sowing date, you must also take into account the fact that eggplants sprout in 7 days, and those sown dry - only on the 15th day. In order for the seeds to germinate, the temperature should be in the range of 25-30 degrees.

Pre-sowing treatment

The seeds are disinfected in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes. Then rinse with clean water and immerse in a nutrient solution consisting of:

• glasses of water;
• pinches of nitrophoska or ash.

The seeds are soaked in a nutrient solution for 24 hours. An infusion of ash or nitrophoska increases the rate of seed germination.

Then the seeds are placed on a saucer, wrapped in a damp cloth, for 1-2 days at a temperature of 25 degrees. During this time, high-quality seeds have time to hatch. When sowing with sprouted seeds, seedlings can be expected already on the fifth day.

Seedling care

After two true leaves appear, the seedlings are dropped into cups one at a time. When picking, the stems are buried down to the cotyledon leaves.

Seedlings are grown at a temperature of 22-23 degrees in bright light. At night the temperature should drop slightly - to 16-17 degrees.

Water the seedlings with settled water. For fertilizing, use calcium nitrate - a teaspoon per 5 liters of water.

Preparing eggplants for planting

Eggplants get sick for a long time after transplantation, so their seedlings are grown only in separate cups. Plants are replanted only with a lump of earth and taken out of the cups so as not to damage the roots.

Good seedlings have 8-9 leaves and buds, the optimal height of the stems is 12-15 cm. Large seedlings are easier to plant and take root better.

Planting scheme

In a greenhouse, eggplants are planted so that there are 4-5 plants per square meter. Leave 60-65 cm between rows, 35-40 cm between bushes. To ensure the plants get more light, they are planted in a checkerboard pattern.

Tall and powerful varieties are placed in one line with a distance between rows of 70 cm, between plants 50 cm.

Step-by-step planting of eggplants in a greenhouse

Seedlings are planted in the evening. One and a half to two hours before planting, it is watered so that it is easier to remove from the cups.

Sequence of operations during landing:

1. A handful of humus and a handful of ash are poured into the hole.
2. Pour in a pink solution of potassium permanganate.
3. The seedlings are planted with a clod of earth without damaging the roots.
4. The neck is deepened by 1 cm.
5. Sprinkle with dry soil and tamp with your fingers.
6. Water again.

Compatibility with other crops

The predecessors of the crop should not be tomatoes and peppers. The best predecessors: cabbage and onions.

In the spaces between the bushes, you can plant other plants to save space. Eggplants coexist well alongside cucumbers, herbs, legumes and melons. Greens and onions are planted along the edge of the bed, melons are not tied up, but are left to trail along the ground.

But still, eggplants are a rather finicky crop, so it is not recommended to plant anything next to them, so as not to shade or thicken the plantings. Intercropping can only be used when space in the greenhouse is very limited.

Eggplant is a fairly popular vegetable from which you can prepare a lot of delicious dishes. But not everyone can grow it on their own. The easiest way to grow blue ones is in a polycarbonate greenhouse, where you can create conditions for them that are close to optimal. In our article we will tell you everything about eggplants, growing and caring for them in a greenhouse.

How to grow healthy eggplant seedlings

Like other vegetables, eggplants are grown in seedlings. The peculiarity of this type of plant is that it does not tolerate transplantation. Therefore, it is better to have your own seedlings, properly processed and planted correctly. Sowing of seeds begins approximately 70 days before planting seedlings in greenhouse soil. Depending on the growing region, the type of greenhouse and the selected varieties, this may be from the second half of April to mid-May. The main thing is that by that time the air in the greenhouse has warmed up to 17-19 degrees, and the soil - to 14-15 degrees.

eggplant sprout

To get healthy seedlings, you need to soak the seeds for 20 minutes before sowing. in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and then dry.

The soil for seedlings is prepared in advance. Properly prepared soil will make caring for seedlings easier. A mixture of turf soil, sand and humus in proportions of 6:1:4 is best. You can also add nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus fertilizers there. The mixture should be well moistened, so it needs to be watered 5 days before sowing the seeds.

Considering the nature of eggplants to take root poorly after transplantation, many vegetable growers practice planting seeds in separate containers about 7-8 cm in diameter. It is better if these are peat pots or tablets, but plastic cups or halves of two-liter bottles are also possible. The main thing is that during the process of planting the plant in a permanent place of growth, the root is not crushed or damaged. It is better to sow several seeds in each pot at some distance from each other, and after the shoots appear, leave one, the strongest and healthiest plant.

Eggplant seedlings

Caring for seedlings involves regular watering and setting the required temperature. Until the seeds have sprouted, the containers should be placed in a room with a temperature of 28-30 degrees. In the future, in order to avoid stretching the seedlings, it will be necessary to harden them by changing temperature conditions. Already a week after the first stems appear, it is advisable to lower the air temperature for several days to 15-18 degrees during the day, and at night to 12-15. Then raise the temperature again, but to 25-28 degrees during the day and up to 20 at night.

Advice. Don't overdo it with lowering temperatures. Keep in mind that cold temperatures below 10 degrees are detrimental to tender seedlings.

Since eggplant is a short-day plant, you can use one more trick known to experienced vegetable growers. It is recommended to grow seedlings of short-day plants in conditions of reduced daylight hours. That is, you need to ensure that the plant is exposed to sunlight 12 hours a day. It has been proven that seedlings grown in this way will provide an earlier and higher harvest in the future. Such care (regulation of daylight hours) is needed for eggplants in the period before fruiting. After the ovaries form, this technique becomes ineffective.

Eggplant ovaries

During the period of caring for seedlings, two feedings are carried out: the first when two true leaves form, and the second – two weeks later. To do this, you need to take 50 g of ammonium nitrate, 30 g of potassium salt and 125 g of superphosphate per bucket (10 liters) of water. This should be enough for a plot of 3 square meters.

Eggplant seedlings are considered ready for planting in the ground if they meet the following requirements:

• the plant has 8-9 true leaves;
• stem at least 20 cm high and 5-7 mm thick;
• The root system is quite developed and strong.

Planting seedlings in a polycarbonate greenhouse

After making sure that the temperature in the greenhouse corresponds to the recommended one, you can proceed to such an important moment as planting seedlings. But first you need to prepare the soil. Eggplant is picky; to please it, it is better to use a 3:1 mixture of turf soil and humus. You can also add peat, compost, as well as loosening materials (sawdust), which will simplify maintenance and improve aeration and water permeability of the soil. The height of the fertile layer in the greenhouse must be at least 25 cm.

When planting eggplants in a greenhouse, leave enough space between plants

The sprouts are placed in rows in a square-cluster manner or in a checkerboard pattern. The eggplant bush is branched, you need to take this feature into account. It is better to plant in such a way that the distance between the rows is at least 45 cm, and if in a checkerboard pattern - about 60 cm. Between the bushes in a row, 30 cm will be enough. Dig holes 15-20 cm deep, add a handful of ash into each, which is mixed carefully with the soil and water with warm water or a weak solution of potassium permanganate. You need to transfer the plant from the pot to the hole together with a lump of earth, as carefully as possible, trying not to damage the root system. You can deepen it into the ground 1 cm more than it grew in the pot (eggplants do not like deepening!).

Advice. If, before planting, you water the seedlings generously so that all the soil is wet, it will be easier to release the root from the pot along with the lump of soil.

Caring for eggplants in a greenhouse

Caring for eggplants in a greenhouse is not easy. They love moist soil, but cannot tolerate waterlogged air. They grow well at high temperatures, but may die if it exceeds the norm. Therefore, when caring for eggplants, it is important to follow certain rules when performing agrotechnical measures in the greenhouse.

Monitor soil moisture regularly

1. Watering and loosening
Proper watering is a very important component of the success of a greenhouse grower who grows eggplants. Water for irrigation should be at least 23-26 degrees. Irrigation is carried out in the morning, it should be plentiful and regular (1-2 times a week), even short periods of dryness will lead to withering of flowers and falling of undeveloped fruits. It is advisable that the entire root of the plant be in a humid environment, but try to avoid getting water on the leaves. On the day of watering in the evening, be sure to loosen the soil to prevent crusting and cracking.

2. Ventilation
The greenhouse in which eggplants grow must be ventilated thoroughly and for a long time in order to avoid excessive air humidity. It is better to do this immediately after watering. In a humid environment, there is a high risk of fungal infections growing among eggplants. But drafts have a detrimental effect on the development of the plant, so you cannot open holes on opposite sides of the greenhouse at the same time.

3. Air temperature
The temperature in the greenhouse should range from 25 to 28 degrees. Cold temperatures below 14 degrees stop the growth and development of the plant, and heat above 34 degrees will simply destroy the entire crop. To control temperature changes, it is recommended to install thermometers in the greenhouse (one near the ground, the second at the level of the tops of the bushes). They regulate the air temperature by ventilation, and in extreme heat, as an additional measure, water the paths in the greenhouse with water.

It is better to mulch the soil under eggplants to retain moisture

4. Feeding
Fertilizing for capricious eggplants is mandatory; it should be carried out 2 to 6 times per season, depending on the condition of the bushes. In the first half of the plant’s growing season, you can use ready-made complex fertilizers such as “Mortar” or “Kemira Universal”. During the fruiting period, nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizers (1 tablespoon of superphosphate and ammonium nitrate per 1 tablespoon of water) are more suitable; plants will respond well to fertilizing with ash. The procedure is as follows: the day before applying liquid fertilizers, the soil under the plants must be well moistened, and after applying fertilizing, the bushes must be hilled up.

Attention! Organic fertilizers for feeding eggplants should not be overused; this can lead to the formation of a large amount of green mass to the detriment of fruit set.

5. Formation and garter of bushes
In order to get maximum yield, you need to form a bush. How exactly to care for plants will depend on the variety, and now there are a great many of them, in a wide variety of shapes, colors and sizes, and each has its own characteristics. For some varieties of plants, it is recommended to pinch the top, stimulating the development of side stems, while others simply need to remove the side shoots before the first fork, etc.

To prevent eggplant stems from breaking under the weight of the fruit, the plants need to be tied up

If planting low-growing varieties of eggplants is practiced in the garden, then it is preferable to use medium-sized varieties or hybrids for care in a polycarbonate greenhouse. They are the most profitable and productive. However, the stems of some hybrids (for example, the Behemoth F1 variety) can reach a height of 2 meters, and they cannot do without a garter. In this case, use a trellis or stakes to which the bushes are tied. This must be done carefully, since the stems of eggplants are very fragile and break easily. Each side shoot is tied up separately, trying to prevent thickening to avoid rotting of the leaves.

Harvesting eggplant

Each variety of eggplant has its own characteristics, indicating the stage of ripeness of the fruit, which the greenhouse grower must know. Already in the technical maturity phase (when the final varietal color has not yet been reached and the seeds are easily cut with a knife), eggplant can be harvested. This is done with sharp pruning shears, removing the fruit along with the stalk.

As soon as the fruits ripen, remove them immediately so that the plant can direct its energy to further development

Attention! Overripe eggplant fruits lose their taste, become bitter and are only suitable for obtaining seed material.

Eggplants, which are not an easy task to grow and care for in a greenhouse, are still and will always be favorites on our tables. Indeed, in addition to excellent taste, they also have a number of healing properties. Their regular use helps reduce cholesterol, prevent atherosclerosis, cleanse the liver, and remove salts, carcinogens and radionuclides from the body.

How to grow eggplants: video

Eggplants in a greenhouse: photo