Installation of terraces from wpc. Laying a WPC terrace board according to technology

Terrace board (decking) made of wood-polymer composite is a beautiful and durable floor covering for terraces, gazebos, porches, pool areas, paths in the backyard. It is unpretentious in care and operation. The service life of a decking board can reach half a century or more. But for this it is important to follow all the rules and nuances of installation.

Basic rules for laying decking

The surface on which the decking is to be laid must be level, solid and stable (e.g. screed, beams, concrete slabs).
It is impossible: to lay logs directly into the ground. And, of course, they do not have to be constantly in the water.
Under the flooring, a drain or drainage must be provided.
The flooring must have a slope in the direction of flow of at least 1%, i.e. 1 cm per linear meter.
Under the flooring, you need to provide free air circulation - to remove moisture. This will help prevent the formation of mold and mildew.
The screws that are used to mount the docking must be resistant to corrosion.
At the end of installation, the coating must be thoroughly rinsed twice with high pressure water.

Tools and materials that will be required for laying the decking:

terrace board;
supporting lags;
initial and intermediate brackets (cleats);
screws;
end strips;
plugs;
corners;
level;
saw;
tape measure and pencil;
screwdriver;
drill.

How to lay a deck board?

It is better to lay a deck board in dry weather, when the air temperature is above zero. It is desirable to pre-unpack the boards themselves and let them lie down in the air for a day or two in the place where they will be laid.

Each board must be fixed on special supports - logs. This can be done in one of two ways:

perpendicular (boards are laid perpendicular to the lags);
diagonally (boards are installed diagonally to the lags).

The process itself is simple, but there are a number of nuances that need to be taken into account. Let's take a closer look at each stage of installation.

Stage 1. Preparation of the base for installation

The following can be used as a base for laying a decking board:

solid, even concrete screed with a pre-laid rubber cushion;
concrete slabs or support beams;
adjustable screw supports;
a metal or wooden frame with a profile section of 100x100 mm and a distance between the frame profiles of not more than 500 mm (if the logs are made of WPC).

Stage 2. Laying the lag

Logs are installed at a distance of no more than 400 mm from each other. With diagonal laying, the distance should be reduced to 300-350 mm.

It is important to observe the compensation gap between the lags and the wall or any other obstacles - at least 10 mm. Otherwise, during thermal expansion, the boards may be deformed.

The logs must be aligned with each other and be in the same horizontal plane.

Stage 3. Installation of a terrace board

The laying of the board itself is carried out as follows.

With the help of self-tapping screws, the clamps are attached to the lags. Moreover, the first klyamer is screwed to the edge of the log.
The terrace board is laid in such a way that it enters the klemer.
The second clamp is installed on the opposite side. The installed board is fixed.
In the same way, clamps are installed on all logs.

Advice: Clamps must be installed on all joists. Otherwise, the deck board may sag.

Install the rest of the boards in the same way.

Advice: The clamps must fit into the grooves of the decking board. This provides a strong fastening, as well as the necessary clearance between the boards.

After installing all the boards, their ends are aligned and hidden with decorative plugs.
After completion of work, you need to thoroughly wash the surface of the decking board with running water.

Terrace board laying technology: typical mistakes

In most cases, problems with a decking board that occur during operation are associated with errors made during its installation. Here are some of them.

The distances between the lags are not respected.
Fasteners are over tightened.
There is no or improperly equipped water supply.
The boards were laid without compensating gaps.
Incorrectly equipped or missing drainage.

If you have not figured out how to properly lay a WPC decking board, or are not sure that you can handle this work yourself, order professional installation of the coating by specialized installation teams. Thus, Alta-Profil certified specialists have been trained by our experts and will perform all work in compliance with technological standards and manufacturer's recommendations. Quality is guaranteed by Alta-Profil.

Terrace board operation

The duration of the service life of the decking primarily depends on the quality of installation. And secondly - on how it is used.

In conclusion, here are some tips that will help extend the life of a decking board to 50 years or more.

Do not allow the terrace to be flooded for more than 4 days.
Do not use metal sponges, scrapers or spatulas for cleaning. It is better to take a regular cotton or microfiber cloth.
Remove any defects (for example, a trace of a cigarette) with sandpaper.
Use running water or non-abrasive, non-acid detergents for cleaning.

And a stylish and solid coating will decorate your terrace, walkway, porch for many decades!

According to manufacturers, one of the most important advantages of composite decking is ease of installation. However, in practice, it turns out that when working, including strictly according to the instructions, one or another error is almost always made. And any flaws, as you know, eventually lead to the appearance of defects and damage to the finishing material.

From a mixture of wood flour, polymers and pigments, composite floorboards are produced, designed to form flooring on terraces, adjacent areas, garden and park paths, around pools, etc.

WPC is made on the basis of polyethylene, polypropylene or other PVC-forming components. Moreover, the higher the percentage of wood content, the better and more expensive the finished coating. IN virtues material:

At the production stage, pigment is added to the mass, so the decking is already tinted. This greatly facilitates the choice of coverage.

But it must be taken into account that any polymer-containing material laid in the open air turns yellow over time and loses its color saturation under the influence of direct sunlight. This applies to both cheap products and premium products. The only difference is that WPC from a well-known manufacturer, due to the use of expensive raw materials, will last much longer in an unchanged state than its cheap counterparts from a small-town workshop.

In addition to this, in cons polymer terrace board:

The instability of the material to damage, the formation of dents, chips;
Own coefficient of change in geometric dimensions, which is why during installation it is necessary to use only original components (logs or lining beams made of WPC, brackets, etc.). For example, wooden slats cannot be used as supporting elements, since the expansion index of materials is different, durable fixation will not work.
The need to equip the base of concrete, sand and gravel bedding and / or metal structures, organization of drainage and much more. Because of this, laying a WPC decking board is significantly more complicated;
High material cost.

How to distinguish high-quality WPC from a fake? First of all, pay attention to the packaging. A serious manufacturer will provide full protection of products during transportation, so there is always a multilayer cardboard and a protective film. Each pack contains an insert with a description of the product and instructions on how to pack it correctly.

The next criterion is the condition of the slats. They should be even, symmetrical, without waves, bends. The surface is evenly dyed, smooth to the touch, without burrs or swelling. There should be no deformed areas, irregularities, color variations, extraneous inclusions.

When choosing, the seller is obliged to draw the buyer's attention to the operational index of the product (similar to the load classes of laminate, LVT tiles and linoleum). WPC is available in three categories:

Home- for domestic use (adjoining territories, balconies, podiums, gazebos);
professional– objects of commercial purpose (restaurants, hotels, decks around swimming pools, playgrounds, etc.);
Expert- designed for areas that are characterized by serious foot traffic (city parks, recreation areas, commercial and commercial facilities).

And the last - when buying high-quality products, certificates of compliance with Russian standards, fire safety and a sanitary and hygienic conclusion are provided. All documents must be valid, have several seals, including blue - from the seller.

Tools and materials required for the installation of the WPC

To lay a deck board, you will need:

Building materials for laying the base: bulk materials (SGW, gravel, crushed stone, sand), concrete for pouring the foundation, concrete blocks, paving slabs, adjustable supports and other means for forming the base for laying;
Geotextile or roofing material to prevent the growth of weeds under the flooring;
Special pipes for drainage;
A set of WPC-lag, initial and finishing guides, fasteners, rubber "pillows" and other fittings;
Drill;
Circular saw or grinder;
Hydraulic level;
Screwdriver or screwdriver;
Roulette and pencil;
Mallet.

Installation of WPC terrace board

Work does not begin with leveling the base. Experienced craftsmen recommend that you first carefully prepare for work. And the first thing should be the plan-project.

Therefore, the process of laying a decking board is as follows:

Drawing up a laying scheme

For an accurate calculation of the required number of terrace floorboards and accessories, as well as the choice of the optimal solution, form a drawing. It is better, of course, to use special programs that each dealer has, but you can draw a scale diagram on paper yourself. After all, installation does not need to be done strictly perpendicular or parallel to the walls, other enclosing structures. You can also make diagonal laying at an angle of 30 ° or more. An important point is to take into account the correct interval between lags in the calculations:

The distance between the lags also depends on the width of the board and its fullness. If the planks are full-bodied, an interval of 50 cm can be made. Hollow ones with such a gap will spring, sag, so the maximum distance between the support beam is up to 40 cm, for floorboards up to 22 mm wide - no more than 30 cm.

The choice is important mounting method:

Foundation preparation

The base must be clean, strong, dry, even and frost-resistant. You can not put the planks just on the ground or asphalt. There should be a gap under the flooring for air circulation, as well as for the flow of melt or rain water.

The basis for the flooring can be varied. Including:

Concrete screed with a thickness of 8 cm or asphalt with a mandatory slope of 1 cm per linear meter (or 1 - 1.5 °) from static buildings or structures. Potholes, pits, loose areas are not allowed. If the base is already ready, and there is no slope, you can cut grooves 3 cm wide and up to 1.5 cm deep in the concrete at an angle.
Sand-gravel or crushed stone-sand "cushion", which is formed by vibrotamping the soil, followed by backfilling of bulk materials and their compaction. The total base layer is 8-10 cm. Geotextiles or roofing material can be laid over the prepared base to prevent weeds from sprouting. Then, with a gap of 40-60 cm, support beams or concrete slabs, metal profiles with an anti-corrosion coating, paving slabs with a size of at least 20x20x3 cm are laid. It is on this basis that the frame will be installed in the future.

The formation of surface drainage during the installation of decking on the ground is a prerequisite. To do this, you need to dig a drainage channel from the site in the ground, line it with geotextiles, lay special pipes with holes along the entire length, fill it with rubble and sand, cover it with soil.

Special adjustable rigid PVC feet that have been designed for mounting the deck on asphalt, concrete and other hard surfaces.

Adjustable supports for the frame made of WPC.

Formation of the support frame

Two days before the start of work, the WPC must be brought to the site and folded horizontally. The recommended temperature during installation is from +5 to +30 °С.

Unfold the kit, which includes:

The log frame is laid with a minimum clearance of 10 mm from the vertical enclosing structures (walls, sidewalks, columns, etc.). The beams are laid out on the surface at a pre-calculated interval, holes are drilled in each in increments of 50-100 cm, then hardware is screwed in. Some manufacturers recommend fixing the lining beam with metal perforated mounting tape or steel corners.

Laying boards

Note that decking is unidirectional. That is, during installation, it is necessary to ensure that the lamellas lie in the same direction in order to avoid some “banding” of the flooring. Some manufacturers draw arrows on the ends of the floorboards for this.

Laying starts from a wall or other fixed structure. The starting element (clip, corner) is fixed on the log using self-tapping screws. The first board is installed in it and slightly knocked out with a rubber mallet. The next mounting component (bracket or terminal) is fixed with a hardware on the other side of the initial bar, then the second lamella is attached and knocked out. Remember that the floorboards must be attached to each support point on the underlayment.

The edge of the decking should not protrude beyond the frame by more than 5 cm. If necessary, the ends are cut with a circular saw. And the recommended thermal compensation intervals between the bars are shown in the diagram below.

If the decking is mounted in a heated room, then it is allowed to install the lamellas end-to-end. Corner connection can be made in two ways: diagonally with trimming and by attaching.

Corner joint of WPC boards.

After installing the last board, the final profile or corner is mounted to it, and the ends of the boards are decorated with plugs.

The final touch is washing the flooring surface with water to remove dust and sawdust. The terrace is ready for full use.

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Terrace board made of wood-polymer composite has its own characteristics. Therefore, in order for your terrace to look beautiful and serve for a long time, you must follow certain rules for installing decking and storing it.

Preparing for decking installation

The deck board should be stored in a dry place protected from the sun. It is better if it is a closed room. The boards are kept in their original packaging, placing them horizontally. You should not remove the packaging in advance, cut them to size. It is better to do this directly during the installation process. Compliance with these simple rules will avoid bends and deformations of the material, which, however, are easily corrected during installation.

Installation of wood-polymer composite should be carried out in the warm season, at temperatures above +5 C. It is not recommended to mount it at low temperatures, on surfaces covered with snow and ice.

In summer, it is better to choose a cloudy day or early morning for laying decking, when the coating will not be exposed to direct sunlight. The fact is that a loose board can heat up strongly and unevenly. This can lead to its bending, which will significantly complicate installation.

When choosing the direction of laying, you should be guided by several rules:

If the terrace is elongated, then it is better to place the board along the short side. Thus, it will be possible to reduce the number of joints and ensure smaller changes in the length of the boards with temperature and humidity changes. This greatly simplifies installation and operation.
When placing the covering in the entrance area, it is usually recommended to lay the decking along the wall on which the door is located. This way of mounting the terrace board is considered to be more aesthetically correct and provides better anti-slip properties (when using a material with a “velveteen” surface).
When choosing the laying direction, you should think in advance how the edge of the material will be finished. For example, the end plank is easier to lay along the board, but there is not much difference for the F-profile.

Based on these rules, you should choose the laying direction in advance, consider the design of all elements of the terrace. We strongly do not recommend solving issues “in the course of construction”. Such an approach often leads to excessive material consumption, errors and design flaws.

ATTENTION! It is especially important to purchase decking for installation completely over the entire area. The fact is that the WPC coating is a natural material and (like any similar material: wallpaper, ceramic tiles, etc.) may slightly change shade from batch to batch. Therefore, when purchasing several missing elements, it may well turn out that they will differ in tone from the rest of the flooring.

There are two types of terrace boards in Master Dek's assortment: traditional - Classic and Light, and for laying on even bases - Slim. The installation requirements for them differ significantly, so we will consider them separately:

Terrace board MasterDeck CLASSIC and MasterDeck LIGHT

Base mounting

When using these types of decking boards, laying is carried out on logs. The recommended distance between the joists is 30 cm (maximum 40 cm) for Light and 40 cm (maximum 50 cm) for Classic. If a significant load on the flooring is expected (for example, laying decking in public places), then it is better to reduce the distance between the lags.

If the logs are supposed to be mounted on a solid base (concrete, paving slabs, etc.), then it is best to use standard MasterDeck logs.

These logs have a size of 30x40 mm in cross section. On the upper part of the log there is a special recess for installing a stainless steel clamp. The joists are attached to the base with a mounting tape. When installing on concrete, it is desirable to lay a waterproofing pad under them. A strip of glass is quite suitable.

When installing the decking, it is important to remember that the logs have a low bearing capacity. Therefore, they must necessarily rest on a solid foundation with a step of no more than 30 cm.

When placed on a solid base, water drainage from under the terrace is necessarily ensured. That is, the base must have a sufficient slope for water to drain. There should also be no significant holes where water can collect in puddles. At the same time, the logs should not interfere with the flow of water. If they are located perpendicular to the slope, it is necessary to make gaps in the logs to ensure normal drainage.

Failure to comply with the requirements for drainage of the base leads to a significant reduction in the service life of the terrace, and in some cases its destruction in the winter, if the structure freezes into ice.

If a columnar or strip foundation is used for laying a decking board, then the use of a WPC log may be irrational. In such a situation, we recommend using wooden logs. A wooden board 50x150 mm, laid on the edge, can be used to cover spans up to 3 m.

IMPORTANT! The board should only be used dry. It must be thoroughly painted or impregnated with an anti-rotting compound. Careful selection and preparation of the material has a decisive influence on the service life of the terrace.

Otherwise, when using the board as a log, you should be guided by the usual building rules (waterproofing at the points of contact with concrete, etc.).

It is also permissible to use a metal profile to assemble the base for mounting the decking. But we would not recommend this option, because it is more expensive and time consuming compared to the board. In addition, when using metal lags, you have to use less convenient plastic clips of the “fungus” type.

Terrace board laying

The board is attached to the joists with standard stainless steel clamps.

It is screwed to the log using a self-tapping screw (it is better to take galvanized self-tapping screws 3.5x30 with a countersunk head). Kleimer has special antennae that are inserted into the grooves of the boards and securely fix them.

For edge boards, special start/finish clamps are usually used:

Additionally, when working with edge decking boards, F-profile can be used for their installation.

The use of standard Master Deck clamps for installation ensures the same gap between adjacent boards (about 4 mm), which is necessary for drainage, ventilation under the terrace and to compensate for the expansion of the material.

If the board is adjacent to a hard surface (wall, pole), you need to leave a gap of about 20 mm between the decking and this surface to compensate for its thermal expansion.

If it became necessary to connect the components “at the end”, then for this an additional lag is installed at the junction:

In this case, a gap should be left between the ends (to compensate for expansions) in accordance with the table:

The length of the flooring in the direction of laying the board	The length of the boards used for installation	Minimum gap between the ends of the boards
Less than 6 meters	less than 4 meters
Less than 6 meters	from 4 to 6 meters
6 to 10 meters	less than 4 meters
6 to 10 meters	from 4 to 6 meters
Over 10 meters	less than 4 meters
Over 10 meters	from 4 to 6 meters

Finishing

The ends after laying the decking may not look particularly attractive. Therefore, we provide a large selection of finishing materials:

Aluminum anodized step profile

With the help of the proposed elements, it is possible to implement many different finishing options, which can be read in more detail in the "Articles" section of our website.

The main mistakes when installing decking

Failure to comply with the minimum step lag. Leads to sagging lag, a large deflection.
The use of WPC logs as carriers during installation of the decking, with non-compliance with the distance between the supports. Leads to sagging flooring, possibly destruction.
Fixing the cover without the use of Master Deck clips. Leads to deformation of the material.
Failure to meet the requirements for clearances between the ends, in the area of adjacencies. Leads to swelling of the flooring, destruction of adjacent structures.
"Seamless" installation. If, when installing the boards, they are pressed against each other with excessive force, the kleimer antennae may bend, and the distance between adjacent elements may be critically low. Leads to swelling and destruction of the flooring.

Terrace board MasterDeck Slim

The Master Deck Slim coating is significantly different from traditional decking. Laying this type of terrace board is carried out exclusively on a solid base, such as a concrete platform, tiles, wooden floor.

ATTENTION! Master Deck Slim cannot be mounted on joists!

Base mounting

The choice and proper preparation of the base for the installation of MasterDeckSlim is fundamentally important for the long service life of the future flooring.

The foundation must meet the following requirements:

Should be even. Potholes, cracks, unevenness should not interfere with the tight fit of the components.
Must be strong enough. If it is mounted on a wooden floor or a crate, it should not bend much underfoot; in the case of a crate, the distance between adjacent boards should not exceed 10 cm.
Must provide good drainage. The concrete or tile base for the installation of the decking must have a sufficient slope for water runoff and a guaranteed absence of puddles. This moment is fundamentally important, since the Master Deck Slim coating lies directly on the surface, in the event of the formation and subsequent freezing of a puddle under the decking, the terrace may collapse! If you have a large open area, and you are not completely sure of the necessary slope and drainage quality, it is better to refuse to use MasterDeckSlim in favor of Master Deck Light or Master DeckClassic!

Laying

Important! When laying on a concrete base or tiles, the deck must always lie in the direction of the slope of the base so that water can flow freely between the ribs. At the bottom of the terrace, where water will flow from under its surface, there should be no obstacles for free flow.

When laying a deck board on a concrete base, it is necessary to provide waterproofing. To do this, a waterproofing layer is laid on the concrete in one layer. If the installation is carried out on a wooden floor / crate, it must first be thoroughly treated with an anti-rotting compound, or better, painted.

Installation is better to start from the wall or junction. It is necessary to retreat at least 5 mm and lay the board against the wall with the side on which the “thorn” of the “thorn-groove” connection is located. On the other hand, it is attached to the base with dowel-nails (or self-tapping screws for a wooden floor) in 50 cm increments.

From the side of the wall, the free side of the board can be fixed with a plinth or other finishing element.

The next terrace board for laying the flooring is inserted with a spike into the groove of the previous one and mounted in the same way.

Important! When installing the boards, DO NOT press them close to each other. Leave a gap of at least 2 mm:

This is done using a probe of the desired thickness. You can, for example, use a coin with a face value of 10 rubles. Ignoring this rule is strictly not allowed, because it almost always leads to damage (“bloating”) of the flooring.

If during installation it became necessary to join the boards along the length, a gap of 4 mm should be left between their ends. At the same time, they need to be mounted "out of order", i.e. the location of the longitudinal joints at adjacent boards should be no closer than 20 cm.

Finishing

To finish the ends of the terrace, made during the installation of the Master Deck Slim decking, it is recommended to use an aluminum corner painted in the color of the board:

Basic Mistakes

The main and most common mistake when using Master Deck Slim is not maintaining a gap of 2 mm between adjacent boards. This is a very serious error that almost always results in damage to the terrace, because when the humidity changes, the material swells and the surface of the deck "swells".
It is not allowed to lay Master Deck Slim on logs! The manufacturer is not responsible for the consequences of experiments in this regard!
Poor drainage can cause deck damage. If there are doubts about the quality of drainage, or the area is large, it is better to abandon the use of Master Deck Slim in favor of installing traditional decking: Master Deck Classic or Master Dec kLight.

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With the help of decking, you can create an aesthetic and even coating that resembles wood in texture. A distinctive feature of decking is resistance to temperature extremes and atmospheric influences. It also has increased moisture resistance. Recently, this material is increasingly used as a floor covering for saunas / baths, bathrooms, indoor pools and kitchens. Do-it-yourself decking laying is quite within the power of any homemade master.

On sale there are 2 types of coatings called decking:

Garden parquet.
Deck/terrace board.

Garden parquet is a square-shaped slab - 30x30 or 50x50 cm. The slab consists of two layers: a base and a front plank.

Terrace board in appearance does not differ from the usual boards made of natural wood. Its length varies from 1.5 to 6 m. The front side of the terrace decking can be smooth or rough (anti-slip effect).

As the basis for the manufacture of decking, valuable hardwoods such as mahogany, azobe, kumaru (dipteryx fragrant), teak and kempas can be used. These breeds grow in tropical forests, due to which they have high moisture-resistant properties from nature. True, all these valuable breeds are not cheap. In view of this factor, tropical wood is often replaced with less moisture resistant, but cheaper in cost, cedar or larch.

The wood used for the production of decking must be suitable for outdoor use. These properties can be improved by heat treatment. Manufacturers douse the wood with hot steam in a vacuum.

After that, moisture is removed from the wooden blanks, which improves the properties of the material. It does not swell from moisture, does not turn blue over time, does not dry out in the sun, does not deform or crack. The workpiece becomes less weighty, acquires a red tint and a more even texture.

In addition, for the manufacture of decking, a wood-polymer composite or WPC is used. This is a mixture of thermoplastic with sawmill waste (wood flour). Polymeric decking has low thermal conductivity, high moisture resistance and strength. The more wood in the composition, the more the finished lamellas will resemble natural wood, and vice versa, the less wood flour in the WPC, the more it resembles plastic. As a percentage, the composite material may contain from 60 to 80% wood flour.

Sometimes WPC is also called a liquid tree. And this name has a place for life, because due to the presence of wood flour in the composition, the material is similar in appearance to wood, but it is much more plastic.

Decking has a number of advantages, below are some of them:

Choosing decking made from natural materials, you can create a cozy atmosphere in the gazebo, on the terrace or dance floor, near the pool, etc.
The use of high technologies has made it possible to produce high-quality wood material with excellent performance properties and a long service life.
Decking goes well with natural stone and evergreen ornamental plants, such as cypress, arborvitae or boxwood.
Decking is warm even in the evening after sunset. Therefore, in the warm season, you can walk barefoot on it at any time of the day.
Simple care. In order for the decking to serve you for a long time, just open it periodically with varnish or a special compound.

The floor surface must be cleaned and dried beforehand. It is best to mount the decking on a concrete base with a slight slope to ensure water runoff after rain/snow. Laying the log is carried out parallel to the water flow. The distance between them is 35–50 cm.

After that, decking should be laid on the logs. Lay out the board in the right order, make sure the installation is correct, and then fix the lamellas to the joists. If you are laying a decking board outdoors, for example, on a platform, then leave a gap between the lamellas.

When laying the material in a summer house / on a balcony, the laying technology is slightly different - the lamellas should be laid close to each other. Fastening should be carried out with fasteners specially designed for this purpose.

Decking will serve you for a long time only if it is properly installed. The most common laying errors will be discussed below:

Large center distance. In order to save money, some home craftsmen increase the distance between the lags. Such actions increase the load on the decking, as a result of which it deforms over time. The optimal distance between the lags is 40 cm.
Small gap to compensate for expansion. Decking can lengthen under the influence of external factors. According to research, a board with a length of 5 m can stretch 2.5 cm in just 1 year. In view of this, if you do not leave a gap between the wall and the decking, then after just a year the floor covering will arch.
Use of natural wood logs. Not only is natural wood short-lived, but because of the different coefficients of linear expansion of materials, decking will break out of wooden logs over time.
Non-observance of one direction of the lamellas. To prevent the floor from being striped, during the flooring process, the WPC should be laid in one direction. In order not to get confused, draw arrows indicating the direction of laying on the ends of the boards, if they were not indicated by the manufacturer.
Weak fastener. If the self-tapping screw does not fully attract the clip, then the fasteners will be unreliable. Solving the problem is very simple - for fastening, take longer self-tapping screws. Thus, you can avoid the fact that over time the decking will begin to knock on the logs.

This concludes the recommendations for mounting the decking. If in the process of getting acquainted with this information you still have questions, we suggest you ask questions to our expert. Would you like to comment on an article or rate it? Then write your comments.

Video

In the provided video materials, it is told about the features of the installation of the terrace board:

Scheme

On the diagrams you can see some details of mounting the decking:

Photo

In the provided photo gallery, you can see the original use of the decking - decking:

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We offer to involve professional builders for the installation of a terrace board made of wood-polymer composite.

It is forbidden to use the product for other purposes, as columns, supports, beams and other load-bearing structures.Terrace board made of WPC is intended for laying as a floor covering. The method of installation is of great importance, improper installation can lead to a reduction in the life of the material, or to its damage. Read the instructions carefully before installation, especially important pay attention to maintaining the gaps between the boards.

During storage and unloading, make sure that the decking is laid on a flat surface, preferably on cross beams along the entire length of the boards.
Avoid contact of the decking surface with construction debris, etc.
Strictly follow the recommendations for the installation of a wood-polymer composite decking board, and also use the recommended tools.
In case of lack of experience in installing a terrace system, use the services of professionals.

Starring:

, 200mm*25mm
, 150mm*25mm
, 65mm*40mm
, 65mm*15mm

Terrace surface preparation

Before the beginning installation of WPC terrace board, make sure that the surface is solid and level (maximum recommended deviation is no more than 5mm). In the case of laying on a solid concrete base, in order to prevent cracking or bending of the log when drilling it, it is advisable to use a metal fastener made of galvanized or stainless steel to prevent rust.

Adaptation, preparation and checking of decking

Before installing the terrace, it is necessary to give the terrace board time to adapt to the environment within 1-2 days. Put the decking on the joists. They should be located on a flat surface no more than 40 cm apart.
Installation must be carried out by at least two people.
Do not install WPC decking at temperatures below 0°C.
It is forbidden to use WPC terrace boards as a support or base for balconies, stairs, etc. In such cases, special measures must be taken in accordance with existing standards. WPC terrace boards can be laid on existing balconies, stairs, etc.
At the place of installation, as with natural wood, it is necessary to ensure sufficient air circulation so that the space under the floor can dry properly. To do this, air must circulate at various points on the deck and a sufficient number of ventilation openings must remain open.
Terrace boards may have some color differences due to the presence of particles of natural wood in the material from which they are made. Such differences are found in the products of all suppliers of WPC decking. Minor color differences may occur in different production batches of products. Coloring and brushing of product samples are not strictly established. In this regard, it is recommended to use boards only from the same production batch within the same project. The color of the decking changes during the first weeks after installation. This is a natural process due to a combination of moisture absorption and exposure to ultraviolet rays, which may cause color differences between previously installed boards and those that have not yet been exposed to sunlight. These differences will disappear over time. In connection with all of the above, color differences are clearly not covered by our warranty.

Carefully check each WPC terrace board before installation. An installed board that was damaged before it was installed (and nevertheless installed) is not covered by the warranty! The warranty in all cases is limited to the supply of replacement boards.

About expansion gaps (longitudinal seams)

Longitudinal seams when laying WPC terrace boards are necessary in order to ensure drainage (drainage of water from the surface of the terrace system), as well as convenient cleaning of the surface. In addition, expansion joints provide a slight thermal expansion / contraction of the WPC decking profile with temperature changes in the environment.

When laying terrace decking, there are two installation options: seam and seamless.

suture- is formed during the installation of the terrace using a stainless kleimer or a plastic clip. The seam size is 4-5mm.

This installation option is a prerequisite for assembling a terrace in the open air and in places of high humidity. This method provides the maximum service life of products.

Seamless- a variant of the arrangement of a closed terrace or installation of decking in the premises. Fastening is carried out with a stainless kleimer with a gap between the boards up to 1-2 mm. This method eliminates the ingress of debris into the system, and also makes it look more attractive and convenient to use.

The main rules for installing a WPC decking board

CIRCULATION- it is necessary to ensure sufficient air circulation under the deck, and also to prevent direct contact of structural elements with the ground or grass cover
TEMPERATURE EXPANSIONS- it is necessary to take into account the expansion along the length and width of all structural elements, due to temperature and humidity differences during operation
DRAINAGE- when installing the terrace, observe the slope of the flooring surface of 1-3% for better drainage.
INSTALLATION- laying is carried out at an air temperature not lower than 0ºС.

TOOLS REQUIRED FOR MOUNTING THE WPC DECK BOARD

To assemble the terrace, you need the necessary set of tools that will allow you to quickly and efficiently mount a terrace system from WPC decking.


Wood saw	Pencil	Roulette

Email drill	Kiyanka

INSTALLATION OF WPC TERRACE BOARD

Installation of mounting logs from WPC

Mounting logs made of WPC should not be too long, the recommended length is 3 meters. The step between the central axes of the lag rows should be 33 cm, maximum 35-40 cm. Logs should be installed with a small gap at the ends. The gap between the ends of the supporting logs should be 20mm.

The joists should not be considered as a supporting structure, they themselves should be supported by something along their entire length, except when the flooring is mounted on pedestals (supports). Between the pedestals, a distance of no more than 40 cm (center to center) must be observed. It is impossible for the logs to be embedded in concrete, glued or otherwise attached to each other.
It is impossible for the logs to be in the water.
The lag is laid with the corrugated side down and the groove up. The groove allows you to install a screw with a clip exactly in the center of the mounting lag.
Logs are laid at a distance of at least 10 mm in length and width from any fixed structure. Between the lags there must be a gap of at least 20 mm.
Condensate and water run off along the deck boards, i.e. perpendicular to the lags. Therefore, gaps should be left between the transverse lags to ensure good flow.
Rigid fastening of the lag to the base is not allowed. To press the lag, it is necessary to use stainless steel or aluminum brackets, with an interval of about 1m.
The ends of each board should rest on the log. Fasten the ends to avoid any possible deformation under the board's own weight, and also to avoid the risk of the board breaking when the ledge is loaded. When laying boards longitudinally, both edges must rest on separate parallel joists.
If the logs cannot be attached to the base (for example, on the roof), they can be laid and fixed on pedestals (supports) located at a distance of no more than 40 cm from each other (center-to-center). In this case, aluminum logs should be used instead of conventional wood composite logs. Make a frame (frame) of aluminum logs (located perpendicular to each other) to prevent the boards from sagging towards the center.

Compensation gap

Be sure to leave room in advance for the linear expansion of the boards. Where the decking is installed next to a wall, the gap between the edge of the decking surface and the wall should be 20 to 30mm. Considering the thermal expansion or contraction properties of WPC main decking profiles, the recommended length for main decking profiles is 3m.

Fastening the board with a clamp. Terrace assembly.

Before screwing the screw into the mounting lag, it is necessary to make a hole of a smaller diameter with a drill, no more than ¾ of the screw diameter.

For a more dense and uniform fixation of the board, use a mallet. Tap on the side closest to you to obtain an even gap along the entire length of the main profile.

At the joints of the ends of the main profile, use double rows of support logs so that each end of the board rests on its own support log. The width of the gap between the rows of support profiles should be between 3 and 5 mm.

When laying the last row of the board, where the edge cannot be fixed with a clip, it is allowed to screw in a self-tapping screw / drive in a nail from the side of the main profile of the board - at a distance of 2-3 mm from the edge.

If the main profile protrudes along the length of the last row of supporting logs, then the length of the part of the decking protruding from above the log should be less than 2 cm. Otherwise, deformations, fractures or other defects associated with the weight load falling on such places are inevitable.

The final step in the installation of the terrace is the edging of the terrace with a wpk corner or an end plank around the perimeter. Fastening the corner or strip is carried out with a self-tapping screw.

Installation of a finishing corner or end plate

The corner and the end plate are used to finish the terrace around the perimeter. Ennoble the appearance of the terrace flooring, hiding the view of structural elements. Unlike the WPC corner, the end plank does not have a protrusion on the terrace surface.

Make sure that the joists at the edge of the deck are at least 5mm longer than the planks.
Saw off the corner or end plank to size and place along the edge of the deck, keeping the distance between the board and the baseboard at least 5 mm.
Screw them tightly to the joists using long stainless steel screws.

The main dimensions used when installing a WPC decking board (pivot table)

Size Description	Unit		Note
The distance between the lags for a terrace board made of WPC "Dekin Standard", 150mm * 25mm		No more than 33	In the event of an increase in the load on the flooring (vehicle entry, a large number of people, etc.), the distance between the lags must be reduced to 15-20 cm.
The distance between the lags for a decking board made of WPC "Dekin Prestige", 200mm * 25mm		No more than 40	In the event of an increase in the load on the flooring (vehicle entry, a large number of people, etc.), the distance between the lags must be reduced to 20-25 cm.
Expansion joint distance for seamless installation (stainless steel clamp)
Expansion joint distance for seam installation (plastic clip)
The distance between the terrace board wpk, with longitudinal docking			Calculation of the distance between the ends of the board: * Board length - L, Maximum area temperature - Tmax, Installation temperature - T Calculation method: L = (Tmax - T) L For example: the length of the board is 2 meters, the installation temperature is 10, the maximum annual temperature is 40, the distance between the ends should be: L = (Tmax-T) L = (0.9 10-4) (40-10) 2000=5.4 mm.
The distance between the lags in the longitudinal direction (from the end part, when connecting the lag end-to-end)		at least 20
Distance from the KDP log to the wall or other obstacle			Calculated based on the total length of the terrace, 1 mm of clearance per 1 running meter of decking
			Base slope 1 cm / 1 r.m.
Fastening the log to the base using self-tapping screws or dowel-nails with a pitch			You can use steel mounting tape or steel mounting brackets
Fixing a corner or end plate with self-tapping screws			Fasten to the working side of the board (pre-drilled holes) with stainless steel screws
For end and corner joints of corners and decorative strips, the required clearance (required for thermal expansion)

OPERATION AND CARE OF WPC TERRACE BOARD

For regular maintenance, use a brush or high pressure cleaner (max. 80 bar). When cleaning, clean the boards in the direction they are laid. Do not use a high pressure industrial dirt washer and do not bring the water jet too close to avoid damage to the boards. If necessary, a mild detergent can be used. Under no circumstances should solvents, stain removers, paints or polishes be used.
To avoid the appearance of moss, make sure that the gaps between the boards are clean and the water drains well. You can also prevent the appearance of moss by regularly cleaning the flooring.
It is recommended to regularly rearrange flower pots and other items to avoid uneven aging of the flooring.
Grease and oil stains are best and fastest removed with a household degreaser. Do not allow stains to dry out or penetrate into the panel material. If the stain has dried, carefully remove it with a high-pressure cleaner and sand in the direction of the grooves. After a while, the discolored area should even out in color.
Scratches can be removed with a wire brush. First, wet the boards as much as possible to avoid discoloration. Gently go over the entire length of the board to remove any scratches. The resulting slight discolouration will fade over time.
In shady or partially covered areas, wet streaks may appear, which will eventually disappear under the influence of ultraviolet light or bad weather conditions. This will not affect the actual quality characteristics of the board, so any complaints and claims in this regard will not be considered. This effect will disappear over time, but it is impossible to completely avoid it. You can speed up its disappearance by brushing.

NOTE

In the case of using a WPC decking board for gazebos, terraces, etc. it is not recommended to use wooden logs, since the thermal expansion of a log made of natural wood differs from the characteristics of WPC materials, which can lead to a violation of the geometry or integrity of the terrace decking.
At the junction of the ends of the terrace boards it is necessary to lay two parallel support logs. That is, the edge of each board rests on its log.
During installation, we recommend to mount each next row of boards in a run-up, with joints offset by at least 1/3 of the board length.
If during installation you used wedges between the boards and the walls, then don't forget to delete them.
board end should lie on the floor and attached to it with a clip or kleimer.
It is not recommended to mount the corner on the edge of the step, as it performs more of a decorative function. We recommend installing an aluminum corner on the edge of the step.
In order to avoid getting coals on the terrace board (for example, from a barbecue), put a metal sheet under the brazier itself.

PRINCIPLE OF INSTALLATION OF WPC TERRACE BOARD ON PLASTIC CLIPS

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