Self-leveling polymer floors with your own hands. A method of pouring polymer floors, consumer reviews and prices for materials How to make a polymer floor with your own hands

When planning an independent arrangement of a polymer floor, you need to remember that the work must be done as efficiently as possible so that the coating lasts as long as possible. The topic of today's article is the technology of pouring polymer floors, the procedure is complex and time-consuming.

A self-leveling polymer floor is the most common type of polyurethane and epoxy coatings, characterized by increased decorative properties.

The thickness of the fill in this case varies between 2.5 mm and 5 mm. It is impractical to make the layer thicker, since this will significantly increase costs, and the functional and decorative parameters of the floor will remain the same. Areas of application - residential and public buildings.

Types of self-leveling floors	Characteristics of self-leveling floors	Application
Thin-layer floors	thickness 250-300 microns	Thin-layer coatings are used for industrial floors exposed to medium mechanical stress, protection of concrete floors from aggressive environments and dust, giving a decorative appearance
	thickness up to 4-5 mm, filling with sand by weight up to 50%	Self-leveling self-leveling floors are suitable in rooms with medium and high mechanical loads, where special, increased requirements are imposed on the floors. Such floors have a smooth surface (glossy or matte) with dirt-repellent properties, decorative, hygienic, easy to maintain, maintainable
Highly filled floors	thickness - 4-8 mm, filling with sand by weight - up to 85%	Highly filled floors are suitable for environments with high humidity and extreme temperature conditions. These floors are particularly shock and wear resistant. In terms of properties, they are close to polymer concrete.
Bulk colorless epoxy	Density 1.10. The ratio A: B is 100: 60. Life time 35 min Dry residue 100%.	A two-component, solvent-free, colorless epoxy system for high-strength decorative topcoats.
Universal epoxy pouring compound	Density 1.50. The ratio A: B is 100: 10. Life time is 25 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	Two-component painted epoxy for leveling and finishing polymeric coatings on concrete, both under other ESP® coatings and as a stand-alone coating.
Conductive epoxy filler	Density 1.65. Ratio A: B -100: 10. Life time is 20 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	Installation of conductive protective coatings on concrete foundations in warehouse, production, assembly and other premises with requirements for electrical conductivity.
Polyurethane floor	Density 1.45. The ratio A: B is 100: 20. Life time 30 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	These coatings, which are based on a hetero-chain polymer, are rigid-elastic, that is, with high mechanical strength, they have a sufficient elastic resource. They arrange a polyurethane floor covering in a wide variety of premises - industrial and industrial, residential and public, in children's and educational institutions, in parking lots and in freezers, etc. In terms of layer thickness, the polyurethane floor can be thin-layer (up to 1 mm), self-leveling or quartz-filled, with increased resistance to abrasion and shock loads. Various special properties (anti-static, anti-slip) can be imparted to the polyurethane coating.

Among other advantages of polymer floors, it is worth highlighting:

wear resistance;
dustlessness;
immunity to aggressive chemical compounds;
a wide range of colors - the coating can be both colored and transparent;
lack of smell when styling;
the ability to apply 3D drawings.

Note! The quasi-three-dimensional image is made possible by the decorative polyurethane component. In such cases, the floor is poured in two stages - first, the polymer mixture is poured, then, after it dries, a topcoat is applied (more on this at the end of the article).

Due to the high aesthetic level, polymer floors allow you to create full-fledged compositions using marble chips or colored sand. The filling procedure has its own nuances, we will consider them in more detail.

Stage 1. Preparation

Arrangement of a self-leveling polymer floor begins with preparatory work.

Wooden base

Step 1. First, the room is cleaned of debris and dust, furniture is taken out, decorative elements are dismantled (such as skirting boards, cornices).

Step 2. Then everything necessary for work is prepared. You can use a vacuum cleaner to remove small debris, and a sander to remove glue and old coatings. By the way, the reliability and durability of the future floor largely depends on the quality of cleaning.

Step 3. Next is the preliminary preparation of the base. In this case, it is very important what material was used for the previous coating, because if it is, for example, wood, then the base should be pre-sanded, putty all cracks, treated with a degreasing compound - all these measures will improve the adhesion of the polymer to wooden boards. For degreasing, you can use gasoline, acetone or any other organic solvent.

If there are no difficulties with the disposal of solvent residues, a surfactant or KM alkali solution can be added. Although today you can buy special means for degreasing wood (for example, Mellerud), which in parallel protect the surface from fungal formation.

Step 4. The moisture content of the floor is estimated using a moisture meter. It should not exceed 10%, otherwise the polymer filling will be of poor quality.

A concrete floor is prepared for pouring in a slightly different way.

Step 1. The moisture content of concrete is estimated, if it is higher than 4%, then the surface is dried. To determine humidity (in the absence of a moisture meter), you can use one old method: a rubber mat is placed on the floor and pressed firmly, and if the surface under it has not changed color after 24 hours, then the base is ready for pouring.

Concrete floor moisture meter

Step 2. The compressive strength of the floor is also checked (the norm is 20 MPa and above). To do this, hammer blows are applied to a chisel installed perpendicular to the surface. If the concrete has not crumbled, and the chisel has left barely noticeable marks, then the strength of the base is within acceptable limits.

Step 3. The presence of waterproofing is checked. If it is not there, then further work on the creation of a self-leveling floor is impossible, because the concrete will begin to flake off, which is especially important in the bathroom or kitchen.

Moreover, in case of poor-quality insulation, moisture will rise through the capillaries in the concrete coating to the polymer layer and sooner or later will destroy it.

Note! Otherwise, the preparatory measures for a concrete base are practically no different from those for a wooden base.

If a polymer floor is poured onto a tile, then first its voidness is checked (it may appear after the tile adhesive has dried). All components that have lagged behind the surface must be removed, and the resulting voids must be putty.

After that, the surface is degreased.

Stage 2. Level difference

This term is used to refer to the difference in height between the highest and lowest points on the floor surface. If the difference is 0.5-2.5 cm, then before applying the primer, the floor is filled with an assembly leveling mixture (sand and polymer self-leveling mixture in a ratio of 1: 2). A trowel is used to apply the mixture.

If the difference exceeds 2.5 cm, then you will need to fill the surface with a correcting mixture (sand with cement in a ratio of 2: 1).

Note! In both cases, instead of mortars, a special leveling mortar suitable for this thickness can be used.

Stage 3. Materials and tools

After preparing the surface, you need to take care of everything you need. To work you will need:

polymer leveling mixture;
deep penetration primer mixture;
putty knife;
building level;
squeegee;
electric drill with mixer attachment;
needle roller;
container for solution preparation.

Stage 4. Priming

It is best to use a roller to apply the primer coat. If the surface is porous, then the primer is applied in several layers and after each of them a short pause is made to dry the mixture.

Here are the basic functions of priming:

improving the spreading of the polymer composition;
improved adhesion to the base;
preventing the appearance of air bubbles.

If the floor will be poured in several layers, then the primer must be applied in front of each of them.

Note! In a room with a high level of humidity, the primer layer is covered with a waterproof compound.

You also need to remember that primer compounds are toxic, so you should take care of high-quality ventilation of the room in advance. Moreover, the temperature should not be allowed to drop - if it drops below + 15ᵒС, then the adhesion efficiency of the primer will noticeably deteriorate.

It takes at least 24 hours for the primed surface to dry completely.

Step 5. Thermal compensation

One of the most important elements of a cast floor is a temperature-compensated joint, which should be applied around the entire perimeter of the room. For this, wooden slats are taken (necessarily from hardwood). These seams will prevent the floor from deforming in case of significant temperature changes.

Stage 6. Preparation of the solution

The preparation of the solution must be taken seriously, since the poor quality of the filling will hopelessly ruin the polymer coating. It is characteristic that after preparation, the solution must be poured as quickly as possible, because it hardens after a few minutes.

Note! The humidity in the room during filling should be no more than 70%, otherwise moisture will condense on the surface.

All components are poured into the container in the ratio specified in the instructions for the polymer mixture. To avoid heating the solution too quickly, the container can be placed in another, larger one, filled with cold water.

All components are mixed with an electric drill operating at low speeds (no more than 400 rpm) until a homogeneous mass is obtained. To determine the readiness of the solution, you can use one simple method:

A small ring is cut from the deodorant cover and placed on a flat surface (for example, a piece of sheet steel);
the ring is filled with a solution and lifted;
with a uniform spreading of the solution into a spot with a diameter of 3 cm, you can start pouring.

Note! If the mixture is too thick, then it will not be able to level out qualitatively, and if it is too liquid, then you will need to add a little more dry polymer.

Stage 7. Filling the polymer floor

Do-it-yourself polymer floors are poured in the same way as ordinary self-leveling ones.

Step 1. The first portion of the mortar is poured along the wall farthest from the entrance with a strip 45 cm wide. Then, for better distribution, the mortar is leveled with a spatula.

Note! The whole room is filled immediately, otherwise there will be drops.

Step 2. After leveling, the surface is rolled with a needle roller to remove air.

Step 3. After that, a new strip of solution is poured and leveled. The procedure is repeated until the entire room is filled.

Step 4. After 48 hours after pouring, a polyurethane coating is applied. For the entire drying period, the floor must be protected from the sun, drafts and temperature fluctuations.

Note! If a "warm floor" is used to heat the room, then the first start of heating can be carried out only seven days after pouring. In this case, you need to start at room temperature, gradually increasing it - by about 2-3 ° C per day.

Also read the article on our website - do-it-yourself jellied floor.

There are two ways to create a decorative layer:

place the finished image in advance;
make a drawing on the floor.

In the first case, you will need acrylic paints that are resistant to prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation. This is an easier and cheaper way, since today you can buy your favorite image as a printout on a plotter (in this case, a banner fabric is taken as a basis). During the arrangement, the fabric is covered with a thermal insulating vinyl film to increase the service life.

The dimensions of the image should be larger than the dimensions of the room, because it is always easier to cut the fabric than to apply it.

Video -

The technology for creating 3D images is as follows.

Step 1. First, the base is carefully primed. For this, the same leveling solution is used, but diluted with water just enough so that its concentration is halved. It will take 24 hours for the primer to cure.

Step 2. The image is glued onto a primer and rolled with a dry clean roller. It is characteristic that in this case it is possible to move on the floor only in special spiked shoes.

Step 3. A transparent polymer layer 4-5 mm thick is applied. This is the same as described above. After half an hour, the fill dries up and can be treated with transparent varnish.

The complete readiness of the polymer floor for use is determined by the drying of the varnish.

Video - Pouring polymer floors

Recently, polymer floors have been relevant and in demand. Today, construction is the most important branch of the national economy. A special place in the industry was taken by work on the creation of flooring in a particular space. Today, to create a floor, you can use a variety of building materials - wooden boards, plywood, linoleum, concrete screed.

Advantages of a polymer self-leveling floor

In recent years, the so-called liquid floor has become more and more relevant. It is also called liquid in another way. Unlike traditional building materials, it has several advantages. Floor polymer plaster floors are made of synthetic material. They are most often used in large shopping centers, garages, showrooms, etc.

Often, polymer fill coatings are used in production due to their reliability and long service life.

It is quite simple to create such coatings with your own hands. It is necessary to consider in more detail how polymer coatings are poured, the main stages of repair, the positive and negative sides of the self-leveling floor. Polymer moldings have a number of advantages, due to which the floors are in demand among the consumer.

The advantage of polymer flooring is that it is beautiful and practical.

The advantages are as follows:

Polymer coatings are of various types (epoxy, polyurethane, methyl ethacrylate), depending on this, they can restrain the highest temperature conditions, and also have moisture resistance.
Despite the fact that a polymer is used, they are clean, safe, environmentally friendly.
The floors are very easy to clean, they are easy to wash and treat with a cleaning agent.
The polymer coating is resistant to all kinds of abrasive substances.
Self-leveling coatings can be with a glossy or matte surface, so you can choose for your room a design that suits your taste, which will correspond to the style direction.
Self-leveling coatings contain a liquid substance that hardens rapidly. Thanks to this, the floor dries quickly and adheres to any surface, be it wood or concrete screed. Unlike wood and concrete base, this coating is created quickly and effortlessly.

Thanks to all the above advantages, more and more people prefer to pour the coating, equipping the floors of apartments, private houses, offices, parking lots, etc. In addition, 3D coatings have been developed. They differ from the standard coverage by the presence of complex images, which not every home craftsman can do on his own.

Preparatory work for self-leveling coatings

The difficulty in creating fill coatings is that they need a perfectly flat base. In the event that the base is made of tiles, you will need to perform some roughness. This can be done using sandpaper or sandpaper.

Problems can often arise when leveling the base if it is made of wood. To do this, it is of the utmost importance to remove all uneven places, carefully sealing them up.

The unevenness of the base of the floor surface can be well manifested when the logs are disassembled and the old coating is removed. However, the difference in height is allowed and it is equal to 4 mm. If possible, it is better to perform a concrete screed. If it is not done, then uneven places and defects can be removed using a special grinding machine or a whetstone.

You can install a polymer floor both independently and with the help of qualified specialists.

In order to determine the evenness of the surface, experts advise using:

Water level;
Building level;
Another measuring device.

It will also be helpful to prime the surface thoroughly. The primer increases the moisture resistance of the surface and increases the adhesion of the cast floor to the base. After the base is qualitatively prepared, special slats, like a plinth, need to be nailed around the perimeter of the room. This is necessary so that the liquid filling polymer does not spread into the voids between the floor surface and the walls. The slats are attached to self-tapping screws, nails (if the wall is made of wood) or dowels (if the wall is made of concrete).

Polymer self-leveling floors: mixture preparation technology

In order to make your own PUR floor, you should carefully prepare a working liquid composition. You can buy polymer mixture at any specialty store. After that, it must be diluted, as provided by the instructions and technology.

This is one of the most important steps in the entire repair, since the result of the repair work largely depends on the quality of the liquid composition.

You need to prepare the mixture only according to the instructions that are attached to the purchased product. The mixing process is essential. This must be done slowly, carefully so that not a single lump remains. In addition, absolutely all air bubbles must be removed from the solution. Mixing can be done with a special construction mixer or other suitable means. The next important step is filling the composition. The liquid mixture should be applied to the floor base from the section of the room farthest from the doors and carefully move towards the doors. The correct thickness of the floor layer should be approx. 4 mm.

Before proceeding with the installation of a polymer floor, it is necessary to correctly select and prepare a special mixture for pouring

If the layer is thinner, then it will turn out:

Not durable;
Unreliable;
Not durable.

A very thin layer can only be poured onto the finished substrate as a supplement. It is best to pour the composition together. One home craftsman holds a bucket with a polymer composition and gently pours it onto the floor, and the second evens the surface. You can use a wood strip for leveling. After the polymer filler floor has dried out qualitatively, you can begin to apply varnish. Varnish is necessary for the finished coating to be aesthetic, shiny, and more protected. In addition, the varnish increases the wear resistance of the material, and makes it the smoothest. The time it takes for the polymer to dry is approximately 30 minutes. But it's best to do everything in accordance with the directions on the packaging of the material. The varnish is applied only to the already hardened surface. Laying the coating should be in 3 or even 4 layers. Walking on only a flooded flooded floor is not possible right away. So that there are no traces and defects, it is better to step on the finished floor after a day.

DIY tools and materials for a polymer floor

In order to make a PUR floor based on a polymer composition, you should have a whole arsenal of tools and building materials available. The kit must consist of certain items and materials.

In advance, you should prepare the necessary materials and tools so as not to be distracted in the process

Namely:

Water or building level;
Rail for leveling the polymer solution when pouring it;
Brush;
Putty knife;
Primer;
Mortar, if a concrete screed will be arranged;
Capacity for the polymer composition;
Mixer.

In addition, timber strips should be prepared to enclose the room around the perimeter for a 3D fill coating. In this case, the most important detail will be a film with a pattern or a coloring composition. In order to give the flooring aesthetics, you will need to varnish the surface.

Types of polymer floors (video)

As a result, one thing can be noted that a jellied polymer floor is an innovative design solution for performing repair work in a cottage or apartment building. This technology has found the widest application in production.

The varieties of self-leveling polymer floors, their advantages and areas of application are described in.

Now it makes sense to learn about the technology of their filling, especially since it is quite unique, has many important nuances.

In addition, readers will probably be interested in reading reviews of such flooring from people who have already experienced their daily use, as well as navigate the approximate price level for such materials.

Pouring polymer floors involves several characteristic stages of work carried out in a strictly defined sequence, in compliance with the technological requirements established by the manufacturer of the system.

It is clear that different types of coatings can have significant differences in the nuances of preparing the mixture and the timing of its use, the time intervals for drying each layer, the use of special additives, fillers or coloring pigments.

However, the approximate sequence of actions is the same for all types of bulk polymer floors.

As an example, we will consider the technology of pouring a two-component epoxy-based coating of the Elakor-ED system, which is widely used in industrial and private construction, includes all the necessary components for all stages, and has earned the most positive feedback from consumers.

Materials and tools for work

The amount of material is indicated on the basis of a fill of 10 sq. meters of floor with a thickness of 2.5 mm (this is the minimum permissible layer for this system). So, a high-quality filling of a polymer epoxy floor will require:

Two-component soil "Elakor-ED 2K / 100" - 3 kg.
Self-leveling floor "Elakor-ED" - 25 kg (7 kg for the base layer, and 18 - for the main one).
Refined quartz sand, fraction 0.3 - 0.6 mm - 23-25 kg.
Polyurethane finishing varnish "Elakor-PU - Lux" - 1.2 - 1.5 kg.

The necessary tools are prepared in advance:

Spatulas of various widths, from 200 to 600 mm.
Sintepon rollers with a pile of 10-15 mm.
Needle roller.
Squeegee with adjustable clearance.
Drill with attachment for mixing building mixtures. The drill must have speed control and reverse.
If a large area is covered, you will need attachments for work shoes - paint shoes.
Rigid synthetic broom, powerful vacuum cleaner (better - industrial).
Containers for mixing the component solution.
Be sure to use protective equipment for the skin of the hands and face.

Preparation of the base

The pouring work begins with the preparation of the base. Polymer floors can be poured onto a concrete screed, wooden surface, old tiles, but any type of surface requires careful revision and appropriate preparation.

One of the most important requirements is the horizontal surface. The epoxy floor is self-leveling. However, large differences in level will lead to a serious overspending of rather expensive material and a general rise in the cost of the coating.

A height difference of up to 1 mm per linear meter is considered acceptable. If it is larger, it makes sense to first eliminate it with a leveling screed.

The concrete floor should not have unsealed cracks, deep potholes, crumbling areas.

Absorbed oil or other stains are unacceptable - they are hollowed out to clean concrete, followed by potholes.

For repair work, polymer putties are used, which can be supplemented with quartz sand.

The residual moisture content of the cement base should not exceed 4%. If the work will be carried out on fresh concrete, the minimum curing period should be at least 4 weeks.

When covering a wooden floor, pay special attention to the stability of the base - it should not "play".

The tree must be cleaned of dirt, old paint, sanded and sanded. The relative humidity of wood is allowed up to 10%.

When laying on a tile, all tiles must be tapped to identify loose ones.

They should be removed from the common masonry, and the resulting grooves should be repaired with putty.

Immediately before the application of the primary primer layer (no more than 2 hours), the entire floor surface must be cleaned again of debris and dust with a powerful vacuum cleaner.

Conditions for floor pouring work

The pouring technology assumes compliance with certain conditions for work:

The air temperature in the room and the surface of the base is within + 5 ... + 25 degrees.
Air humidity - no higher than 80%.
The optimum temperature of the components during mixing is 15-20 degrees.
To prepare the solution, you must choose a place that will exclude the possibility of accidental splashing on the surface to be poured.

Priming the floor aims to clog the pores of the concrete, improve adhesion, and prevent peeling or swelling of the future coating.

In this case, the soil is a two-component composition; in other systems, a ready-made deep penetration primer is often used.

Add the required amount of component B to component A and mix thoroughly using both the forward and reverse direction of rotation of the drill. Optimum speed is 500 rpm.

After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, an exposure is made for 2-3 minutes. to release air bubbles, and you can start work.

The soil is poured over the surface with a snake and is evenly distributed with a synthetic winterizer roller.

If areas with increased absorbency are identified, they are immediately re-primed. You should get a uniform, smooth, glossy surface. The primary soil layer will require 18 hours to 24 hours for polymerization.

If required, at this stage it is possible to repair small irregularities by mixing for this an epoxy putty or even a small amount of the base composition of the self-leveling floor with 1-3 parts of quartz sand.
After the primary layer, a second layer is applied - a protective layer of soil, which is immediately sprinkled with a small amount of sand.

A day later, preferably no more, proceed to the next stage.

Creating a base layer

The base, underlayment, layer will become a reliable base for the finishing, front surface. It completely seals all remaining pores, hides all irregularities and differences. It is also poured in two steps.

First, a generous layer of epoxy primer is again applied to the surface, which is spread with a trowel so that no puddles form. Quartz sand (about 1.5 kg per square meter) is poured over the uncured soil with excess.

After 15-18 hours, excess sand is removed with a stiff brush, the surface is dust-free.
Prepare the main composition for pouring the floor.

There are some subtleties in its preparation - first, the component "A" is mixed, in the forward direction and the reverse, and then, without stopping the rotation, the component "B" is poured.

An absolutely homogeneous composition should be achieved.

After stirring again 2-3 minutes for aneration - and immediately the mixture is put into operation. Leaving it in a container for more than 10 minutes is contraindicated.

The composition is poured on the floor in even strips and spread to the required thickness using a squeegee. In some hard-to-reach places, you will need to use a spatula.

Average consumption is about 400-500 ml per square meter.

If you plan to decorate the floor with polymer inclusions (chips), then they are laid at this stage. Work is best done by wearing paint walkers on your feet and avoiding shuffling movements.

After leveling the spilled mixture, it is given 15-20 hours to harden.

This layer will become the "face" of the future floor, therefore, when pouring it, increased accuracy is required. In addition to the decorative function, this layer also bears the main mechanical load.

The composition is mixed in the same way as described above, but the amount of mixture per square meter will be more - at least 1 liter per square meter at a surface temperature of about 20 degrees, or even 1.8 liters at 5 degrees.

With a smaller amount, the self-leveling effect may not be achieved. Pre-leveling is also done with a squeegee.

Time is limited - the prepared epoxy mixture needs to be worked out in 30 - 45 minutes.

In 10-15 minutes after the uniform distribution of the composition over the surface, but no later than half an hour, rolling with a needle roller takes place, which will free the layer from possible air bubbles.

Polymerization will last about a day, but the floor should be exposed to mechanical stress not earlier than after 4-6 days. During this period, the surface must be open, but protected from dust, dirt, liquid.

A good addition would be the application of a protective clear coat of polyurethane varnish. It is applied twice in a thin layer using a roller or brush. Its polymerization will take another day, and after 3 days the floor will be completely ready for full use.

After all layers have completely solidified, expansion joints are cut along the perimeter of the room, which are sealed with a special sealant.

How much is the material for a polymer self-leveling floor

For example, the prices for several popular systems of polymer self-leveling floors of various types:

System brand	Short description	Consumption per sq. m (with a thickness of 2.5 mm)	Packing	Price (rub / kg)
"Elakor-ED"		2.5KG	comp. "A" - 20 kg bucket of comp. "B" - canister 4 kg	225
"Elakor-PU"	polyurethane two-component composition	2.5-3 kg	kopm. "A" - bucket 18 kg comp. "B" - canister 6 kg	245
"Elakor-ED Transparent floor" "	epoxy two-component self-leveling floor	2.1 (thickness up to 2 mm)	kopm. "A" - a bucket of 20 kg comp. "B" - canister 10 kg	350
Evropoll "Pro base EP"	transparent base two-component epoxy for preparation of highly filled quartz mixture	—	comp. "A" - a bucket of 20 kg.comp. "B" - canister 5 kg	200
Duracon TR System-205	Methyl methacrylate coating for medium to heavy loads, anti-slip effect	3.3 (with a layer of 6-8 mm with saturation with quartz sand)	universal compound - containers of 180 kg.	295
-//-	-//-	-//-	Duracon catalyst hardener, 25 kg cans	645

Recently, new types of floor coverings have appeared on store shelves. An innovative discovery was the emergence of a polymer self-leveling floor, which appeared relatively recently on the market of building and finishing materials.

His path began with application in industrial premises, where heightened dynamic loads are used.

But also, they are often used where aesthetic appearance and environmental friendliness is required, this is the food production sector, sanatoriums and so on. This type of flooring is poured, after hardening it becomes an absolutely flat surface and has no seams.

It looks like linoleum, so sometimes a bulk polymer floor is called "liquid linoleum". Due to its phenomenal properties, beauty and practicality, it has become widespread not only in industry, but also in general household consumption.

Types and classification of self-leveling floors

The most basic classification is by composition, and so they are divided into:

One of the advantages is that you can carry out work in cold weather, not susceptible to low temperatures. There are also disadvantages, poor resistance to chemically active substances, and high cost.

Polyurethane floors- shows resistance to everyday household damage. They are used in unusual cases, when flexibility and elasticity with a combination of strength come first.

Due to its elasticity, it is able to withstand any dynamic influences, without cracking and deformation. Also resistant to chemical damage.

In industrial buildings, the first types of self-leveling floors are usually used. Subsequent types of polymer self-leveling floor are widely used for decoration of residential premises.

The following type of classification by layer thickness:

There is also a classification, depending on the properties:

Advantages and disadvantages of self-leveling floor

Like all building materials, self-leveling floor has its own advantages:

But, like all materials, they have their drawbacks:

Very high cost
Due to all its positive properties, it is very difficult to dismantle a self-leveling finishing polymer floor; the use of specialized equipment will be required.

Preparation for pouring a polymer self-leveling floor

As with any floor covering, surface preparation, tool preparation, preparation of a ready-made mixture are required.

We start with surface preparation. We remove garbage, vacuum. We carry out a visual inspection for defects, chips, cracks, height differences.

We eliminate defects, in the presence of minor defects, we use a putty, in the presence of rough irregularities, we use a floor screed. We wait until everything dries up.

In the process of mixing, an endothermic reaction occurs, you should be careful and careful. We take a mixer or a drill attachment and mix the components, after which we pour the finished mixture onto the prepared surface.

Polymer floor pouring technology

The pouring process consists of three stages:

Stage - Preliminary or base layer.
Stage - Finishing layer.
Stage - Lacquer coating.

And so we start by filling the preliminary layer. The pouring process is best done together, one prepares the polymer mixture, the second smoothes it, the finished solution removes air.

In most cases, an epoxy polymer mixture is used as a sub-floor, with the addition of quartz sand or granite sand. Pouring the mortar usually starts from the far corner, it is recommended to pour in stripes.

For a perfectly flat surface, it is possible to use beacons that are pre-set using a level. The finished solution is poured onto the prepared surface, spread evenly with a rule or a metal spatula.

Afterwards, air bubbles that form when the components are mixed are removed with an aeration roller. Rope casting is also possible. The thickness of this layer should not exceed 1-2 mm. Drying time is approximately one day.

Once the subcoat is completely dry, you can proceed with the fine-to-finish casting. It is important to wash the instrument thoroughly after each use to avoid agitation.

At your discretion, the use of decorative elements is possible. Coins of different sizes, buttons of different shapes and sizes, small river pebbles, seashells and much more can be used as elements.

It is also possible to use stencils, landscapes and drawings painted with paints. And recently, the use of 3D films. The process of pouring a finishing layer is no different from the process of pouring a preliminary layer.

After the final coating is completely dry, apply a special varnish... That's all the floor is ready after the varnish dries. Professionals warn that drafts and direct sunlight do not favorably affect the drying process of the flooded floor.

And it is also required to clearly maintain the time between pouring each layer. When pouring a floor with your own hands, we recommend that you watch video lessons on how to properly install a polymer self-leveling floor.

Prices for polymer bulk floors

The price will be influenced by manufacturer, brand, region and place of purchase.

Now we will consider the average cost of one kilogram of the mixture:

Polyurethane mixture - 230-260 rubles.
Epoxy mixture - 250-280 rubles.
Methyl methacrylate mixture - 340-380 rubles.
Cement-based mixture - 310-340 rubles.

It is important to know that the price per square meter of a polymer self-leveling floor is made up of the price of a primer, a preliminary layer, a finishing layer, and if the price of decorative elements and varnish is required. And the thickness of the layer also affects the cost.

On average, the price for 1 sq.m. and the layer thickness is 1-2 mm. material is:

Depending on the complexity, the number of decorative elements, the amount of work, the use of 3d films - and the price of work per 1 sq.m. varies.

Currently, construction is an important branch of the national economy. A special place in this section is occupied by the work on the manufacture of the floor in a particular room. Today, for the construction of a floor, you can use a wide variety of materials: wooden boards, plywood, linoleum, concrete coating. In recent years, the so-called liquid polymer flooring is gaining more and more popularity. It is also called bulk. Unlike conventional materials, it has a number of advantages.

Polymer floors are divided into types such as: epoxy, polyurethane, methyl ethacrylate.

Polymer self-leveling floors are a synthetic coating. It is most often used in large retail spaces, garages, exhibition halls, etc. Very often, polymer self-leveling floors are used in production due to their strength and durability. It is not difficult to make such floors with your own hands. In addition, there are 3D floors. They differ from the previous coating by the presence of complex patterns, which not everyone can do with their own hands. Let's consider in more detail how to fill polymer floors, the main stages of work, the positive and negative aspects of this coating.

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Advantages and disadvantages of self-leveling floor

Polymeric self-leveling floors have a number of positive qualities, which makes them in great demand.
Firstly, polymer floors are of different types (epoxy, polyurethane, methyl ethacrylate), depending on this, they can withstand high temperatures and do not allow water to pass through.

Secondly, despite the use of a polymer base, they are hygienic, easy to handle and wash. Thirdly, this coating is resistant to various chemical agents.
Fourthly, polymer floors can be glossy or matte, so you can choose the desired design in accordance with the interior of the room. Fifth, polymer floors contain a liquid component that hardens quickly. This contributes to better adhesion of the liquid to any surface, be it wood or concrete. Unlike wood and concrete subfloors, this coating is done quickly and effortlessly.

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Preparatory work

The difficulty of erecting self-leveling floors is that they require a perfectly flat surface. In the event that the base is represented by tiles or tiles, you will have to create some roughness. This can be done with sandpaper or sandpaper. Often problems arise when leveling the base if it is made of wooden planks. To do this, first fill up all the irregularities. Unevenness in the subfloor can be well manifested when disassembling the log and removing the old coating.

The permissible difference in the height of the surface of the self-leveling floor is 4 mm. If possible, you can make a concrete screed. If you do not do it, then irregularities and defects are removed with a grinder or grindstone. To determine the evenness of the coating, it is recommended to use a water or building level. It is also advisable to prime the surface. The primer prevents moisture penetration and increases the adhesion of the self-leveling floor to the base. After the base is made, it is necessary to nail slats like a plinth around the perimeter of the room. This is necessary so that the liquid polymer mixture does not spread into the voids between the floor and the wall. The slats are fixed with self-tapping screws, nails (if the wall is wooden) or dowels (if the wall is concrete).

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Mix preparation and pouring technology

In order to make polymer floors with your own hands, you will need to prepare a working solution. You can buy a polymer mixture at any hardware store. After that, it must be diluted in water. This is one of the most crucial stages of all work, since the result of pouring largely depends on the quality of the solution. It is necessary to prepare the mixture only according to the instructions attached to the product. The mixing process is of great importance. This should be done slowly so that not a single lump remains. In addition, there should be no air bubbles in the solution.

Mixing can be carried out using a special mixer or improvised means. The next stage of the repair is pouring the mortar. The liquid polymer must be applied to the surface from the area of the room farthest from the doors and gradually move towards the exit. The optimum floor layer should be about 4 mm. If you make it thinner, then it will not have high strength and reliability. This option is suitable as an addition to the base coat. It is best to pour the mixture together with an assistant. One person holds a container with a polymer liquid and gradually applies it to the floor, while the other evens out the surface. A wooden batten can be used for leveling.

After the polymer self-leveling floor is dry, you can start applying varnish. Varnish is needed to give the coating a certain shine. In addition, the varnish increases the wear resistance of the material and makes it smoother. The drying time of the polymer mixture is on average about half an hour. But it's best to read the instructions on the packaging. The varnish is applied only to the hard surface. It is recommended to paint the floor in two or even three layers. It is not possible to walk on the new self-leveling floor right away, otherwise traces may remain on it.