Do-it-yourself bath: projects, photos, description of the stages of construction. What is better to build a bath from: general information, features and recommendations, which bath is better to build We build a bath ourselves from scratch

Almost every summer resident wants to have a bathhouse on his site. The question arises of where to start building a bath and is it realistic to cope with it on your own, without hiring a huge brigade of workers. Little experience in carpentry is enough for such a business. It will not be possible for one to carry out the plan, but 2-3 people will ideally cope with the construction of a bath.

Where to start building a bath? There are several important points that you should pay attention to before starting construction. This will greatly simplify the task, because it is better to foresee all the nuances in advance.

First of all, you need to consider that any building starts with. Therefore, if there is no many years of experience in construction, it is necessary to choose the simplest possible type of base. In this case, a rubble foundation is great. It has a low price, but there is one feature - such a base can be installed only on slightly loose soils.

Secondly, it is necessary to decide on the materials from which the bath will be built. It is very important to calculate the cost in advance so that there are no unpleasant surprises in the form of additional financial costs.

Thirdly, decide what kind of building is needed. After all, the baths can be completely different. Of course, it is easiest to build the simplest one, the smallest one. But you can not be limited to small and make a huge room for a bath - with a spacious dressing room and the obligatory installation of a shower. The area of ​​such a structure can reach up to 20 m 2. It is necessary to determine the size of the bath based on the number of people in the family, as well as personal preferences in terms of comfort.

When building a large room, the simple skills of a builder will not be enough. A good carpenter who has a variety of wall-cutting skills is imperative. It is advisable for an ordinary builder not to undertake a complex project on his own, but to start building a simple wooden bath from a bar.

Where to start building a bath? The very first question that arises from the master is where to start building a bathhouse on the site. First of all, you need where the building will be located.

Having chosen the proposed place on the site, you can proceed to the next step - drawing up an estimate. This is a very important point that should not be neglected. Indeed, thanks to the estimate, you can easily figure out how to save money when building a bath . Usually the estimate consists of the following items: foundation, walls, roof, communications, installation of the stove, finishing work. It is also worth adding to this list the payment for the services of an architect to create a bath project.

The next step is the purchase of materials necessary for the construction. Most often, baths are built from a profiled bar, which has a low thermal conductivity. But it has a drawback: it takes time for the log house to shrink. Also, builders often use glued laminated timber. It is not cheap, but this material has many advantages. Glued laminated timber has a flat surface, perfectly retains heat, does not rot, perfectly resists rodents, does not require shrinkage after construction.

In some cases, the bath is built from planed beams, logs, bricks, cinder blocks, or. All of these materials have their pros and cons. For example, when building from logs, it is very important to take into account the straightness of wood fibers and it is imperative to dig in all the cracks after the construction of a log house, otherwise the building will not serve the owners for a long time. But brick is good because it is durable and fireproof.

After purchasing the necessary materials, you can proceed directly to the construction itself. Where to start building a bath? Just like when building any house - first, the foundation is poured, the size of which depends on the estimated weight of the structure.

This can be done independently, observing step by step all the points:

1. Site preparation.
2. Pit construction.
3. Edged board formwork.
4. Reinforcement of the base.
5. Ventilation.
6. Pouring the base.

After pouring the foundation, you can proceed to the construction of walls, flooring and roof installation. Installation of walls is most often carried out using wooden dowels. When laying the floor, logs from edged boards are laid on the foundation. Next, another layer of boards is placed, which are fastened with metal screws. At the end, the floor is sanded.

Roof installation is a rather complicated process. First, you need to install rafters on the log house of the bathhouse. There is one important nuance here: the rafters should not have a length greater than the walls, otherwise there is a high probability of the need to install additional support. Next, you should install the rafters on the upper rim and secure with metal brackets. What remains is the laying of slate and the creation of thermal insulation. It is also worth noting that the roof covering can be not only slate. For this purpose, it is quite possible to use wood or shingles.

When all these three steps are followed, it is necessary to determine what kind of ceiling is needed. It can be additionally hemmed with boards from below or installed using the flooring method. Now the most difficult thing is over, it remains to complete the interior decoration of the room and the outside, outside, as well as to conduct water and electricity.

Separately, it should be noted that it is extremely important to relate to the installation of the furnace. There are certain fire regulations that must be followed. The stove should be located away from combustible structures. If the walls of the room are made of wood, then they need to be secured, for example, laid out with bricks. Also, the bath must be equipped with working fire extinguishing means.

Observing all these points, you can independently, without hiring a team of professionals, build a small bathhouse that will delight your family at any time of the year.

It is not an easy task to build a bathhouse from a log house, however, the construction technology, the choice of materials and even the exact sequence of actions have long been known and worked out by many craftsmen. This material explains all the key points that will help in the construction of a log bath: from laying the foundation to interior decoration.

The steam bath has been known since the times of the Scythians, who carried with them special bath tents and camp stoves. And in the 21st century, the Russian bath did not become a kind of archaism, having successfully withstood the age-old competition with bathrooms and showers. Get rid of many ailments, remove from the body harmful substances accumulated in urban everyday life, give the body a good rest - all this is achieved when visiting the bath for more than one and a half thousand years.

Which construction is preferable, how to choose a place for its placement, how it generally works - you will find answers to many "bath" questions in this article.

Place and layout of the bath

One of the important additions to the bath itself at all times was a reservoir with fresh water located nearby - in the absence of another source of water supply, water was taken from it. A special charm in the proximity of such a reservoir lies in the possibility of contrasting ablution - after steaming in a Russian bathhouse, run out of it and plunge into the cool water of the reservoir. In addition, the natural reservoir made it possible to quickly cope with the fire of the bath, which occurred quite often due to violations during the construction of the stove.

Today, there is no special need to link a summer cottage bath to a natural reservoir, but it is still convenient if it is located near, say, an artificial reservoir - the final decision always remains with the owner of the summer cottage.

The main criteria for choosing a place for a bath: distance from the road, the presence of a natural or artificial fence from outside spectators (thick bushes, tree crowns, a fence, outbuildings), a fire distance from the main residential building of at least 15 meters.

The main premises of the bath are the dressing room, washing room and steam room (the last two rooms can be combined into one). The size of the dressing room is determined at the rate of 1.4 m 2 for each bather, the size of the washing room is 1.2 m 2 per person. In addition, the dressing room should have a place for furniture (locker for clothes, bench for sitting) and for storing fuel (box for coal or firewood). The washing room will need a place for containers with hot and cold water, a stove and a place for sun loungers.

For example, for a small family (no more than 4 people), a bath of the following sizes is suitable: external size - 4x4 m; dressing room - 1.5x2.4 m; washing room - 2x2 m; Steam room - 2x1.5 m

In general, the size of the bath is directly related to the size of the area that can be allocated for it. If the site is significant, then the bathhouse can be expanded by adding a shower cabin, recreation rooms, etc.

In temperate and cold climatic zones, it will be correct if the entrance to the bath is located in the south, and the window openings are on the western (south-western) side. This location of the entrance will greatly simplify the use of the bathhouse in the winter season, since the snowdrifts on the south side melt faster, and the direction of the windows will allow illuminating its premises with sunlight for a longer time.

Bath construction - stages

There are several of them:

1. Procurement of basic materials.
2. Selection and laying of the foundation.
3. Creation of the foundation for the heater-stove (if necessary).
4. Creation of the floor and sewerage system of the bath.
5. Assembly of the bathhouse.
6. Roof construction.
7. Formation of a blind area along the perimeter.
8. Caulking the walls of the bath.
9. Masonry or installation of a stove, installation of a chimney.
10. Bath electrics and water supply.
11. Installation of doors and installation of shelves.

Preparation of basic materials for the bath

The classic and most successful constructional material for a Russian bath was and will be wood - wood easily copes with waterlogging of bath rooms, removing excess moisture to the outside.

What kind of wood is suitable for building a bath? As a rule, saunas are built from round timber of pine or spruce with a diameter of no more than 250 mm - only wood will create an indescribable inner atmosphere in the steam room. However, in some places it is better to include wood of other species in the design of the bathhouse - oak, larch and linden. For example, the bottom rims and logs for flooring, made of oak, will allow you to get a truly durable bath. Nuance - the oak must be cut down "in the juice itself" (that is, not dead wood) and dried under a canopy. The lower crowns (no more than 4), following the first oak, are best made of larch. The final crowns, elements of interior decoration and cladding should be made of linden or white spruce - their wood removes moisture better than others.

When do you need to store wood for the construction of a bath? Round timber, wood for interior decoration must be cut down in winter, when the tree trunks contain the least amount of moisture, it is easier to dry. In addition, not the entire tree trunk is suitable for building a bathhouse - only the middle part of the trunk will do, that is, the top and butt are not suitable.

An important criterion in the selection of wood will be the absence of cavities and streaks of resin on the round timber of conifers, dryness, sanded surface, the absence of decayed areas and places of damage by the woodworm beetle.

Bath foundation

The main types of foundations for the construction of baths are strip and columnar, depending on the local soil. Regardless of the type of foundation chosen, it is necessary to lay them with maximum accuracy - it is better if to the depth of soil freezing. Preliminary work before laying any type of foundation: cleaning the site from debris, completely removing the topsoil to a depth of 200 mm (removing the fertile layer).

To choose the right foundation, you need to determine the type of local soil, which can belong to one of three main groups:

1. Weak soil consists of peat, silt, silty sand (contains a lot of water), fluid or fluid-plastic clay.
2. Heavily soil (subject to seasonal swelling) consists of sand (silty or fine), clay components (clay, loam and sandy loam).
3. Slightly heaving soil is formed by rocks, medium and coarse sand grains.

Column (pile) foundation for a bath

They are arranged on slightly weeping soils: it consists of pillars laid in the corners of the bath, as well as at the junction of the internal and external walls. If the distance between two adjacent foundation pillars is more than 2 m, another pillar is laid between them. The depth of the pillar foundation is at least 1.5 m.

Pillars for such a foundation can be easily made directly at the construction site of the bath, the material for them can be red brick, rubble stone, connected with concrete mortar. The main (corner) brick pillars for a columnar foundation are usually square, with a side of 380 mm, the auxiliary ones are rectangular, with a section of 380x250 mm. If necessary, the main pillars are made in two bricks - with a section of 510x510 mm. Saving rubble stone and brick during the construction of a columnar foundation is achieved by filling the foundation pits with sand - half their depth, coarse sand is laid in layers (each layer is 100-150 mm), filled with water and rammed.

The foundation pillars when building a bath with your own hands can also be made independently. This will require a demountable formwork made of boards, coated from the inside with non-hardening grease such as "Emulsol". Inside the assembled formwork, you need to place iron reinforcement, then pour the concrete mixture.

For the casting of foundation pillars inside the pits opened for them, a sliding formwork made of roofing iron, plastic, tar paper or thick cardboard is used. From the material selected for the sliding formwork, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm or more is created, which is placed in a foundation pit of a larger diameter - from 300 mm. The free space around the formwork is filled with sand - it will act as a lubricant and prevent the concrete column from rising when the soil swells. Reinforcement tied with thick wire is inserted inside the formwork, then a concrete mixture is poured, which must be carefully compacted. For the wire handles, previously fixed on the sliding formwork, it is raised by swinging it by 400 mm, sand is poured on the outside and a new batch of concrete is poured.

As a columnar foundation, asbestos-cement pipes can be used, they are durable, not subject to decay, and their outer surface is sufficiently smooth, which allows them not to change their position when the soil swells. Asbestos-cement pipes are also filled with concrete, their underground part must be coated with mineral-based construction grease to reduce the threat of freezing to the ground.

In the intervals between the foundation pillars of the outer walls of the bath and the inner walls of the steam room, brick walls are laid out, their sufficient thickness is brick and even half a brick. Such brick walls must be buried 250 mm into the ground.

Foundation pillars and brick walls between them are brought out to a height of 300-400 mm from the ground level, they must be leveled with cement mortar and covered with roofing material for waterproofing. During casting, the pillars of the required shape are made of metal into the ends of the pillars - they are intended for fastening the frame of the bath to the foundation.

When building a bath on heaving soils, it will be necessary to create a strip monolithic foundation.

Sequence of work:

1. Marking the construction site with twine stretched between the pegs.
2. Digging a trench of the required depth (its size is related to the characteristics of local soils, not less than 400 mm) and 300 mm wide.
3. Adding a layer of sand to the bottom of the trench, then gravel (70-100 mm each).
4. Formwork installation.
5. Reinforcement tab.
6. Pouring concrete mix.

The reinforcement, laid on the bottom of the foundation trenches, must have a cross section of at least 12 mm, it is laid along each of the two sides of the trench and knitted into a frame, lifting it to its middle with the help of brick fragments.

The composition of the concrete mixture is calculated in a ratio of 5: 3: 1 (crushed stone: sand: cement), the sand used must be dry and clean (washed). Calculating the volume of concrete required for pouring a strip foundation is quite simple, you just need to measure the width, depth and total length of the foundation. For example, with a width of 0.3 m, a depth of 0.4 m and a total length of 22 m, the following volume of concrete mixture will be required:

• 0.3 x 0.4 x 22 = 2.64 m 3

One of the difficulties in preparing a dry mix of concrete is the lack of weights on construction sites. Therefore, this method of calculating dry components for concrete will come in handy: one 10-liter bucket holds from 15 to 17 kg of crushed stone, sand - from 14 to 17 kg, cement - from 13 to 14 kg.

The formwork is placed in such a way that the concrete foundation poured into it protrudes 100 mm above the ground level. As the concrete mixture is poured into the prepared formwork, its mass must be repeatedly pierced with a bayonet shovel or a wire probe, hit with a hammer on the outer side of the formwork (we eliminate the air pockets). Then you need to wait for the foundation to completely harden, about 5 to 7 days. When carrying out foundation work in the cold season, after pouring the concrete, the formwork must be covered with PVC film and covered with sawdust or other insulation on top.

After the expiration of the time allotted for drying the cast foundation, we proceed to its waterproofing and lifting with brick rows (if lifting the bath is not required, then, after waterproofing, we proceed to the cement screed). You will need the following materials:

1. Roofing material.
2. Pipe about 2 m (plastic or metal), cross-section from 32 to 57 mm.
3. Masonry mesh.
4. Red brick.
5. Masonry mortar.

Roofing material (roofing felt) is cut into strips sufficient for laying on a concrete foundation, then laid on top of the foundation on bituminous mastic (for roofing tar mastic). The brick is laid in a single-row method of dressing: a masonry mortar is laid out on a layer of roofing material, on it - the first brick row "in a poke" (across the foundation axis), then a masonry mesh is laid, the mortar and the next brick row are placed, but already "in a spoon" (along the axis foundation). Each new row of brickwork is accompanied by a laying of masonry mesh, laying "in a spoon" and "in a poke" alternate with each other. In the 3rd or 5th stitch rows of masonry, it is necessary to install ventilation ducts from pipe scraps - 5-7 ducts are enough for the entire foundation. The number of brick rows depends on the desired foundation height.

The last row of brickwork is covered with a cement screed (the composition of the mortar is sand: cement as 1: 2 or 1: 3), with a 20 mm layer.

Independent heater base and sauna floor

We create the foundation for the stove-heater and assemble the sauna blockhouse. If the main masonry of the heater is supposed, it needs an independent foundation, that is, not connected with the main foundation.

The floor in the bath can be clay, earthen, wood or concrete. By and large, it does not need thermal insulation, since the temperature at its level is practically not higher than 30 ° C. A wooden grate, cork mats or mats are usually laid on the surface of the sauna floor - their task is to relieve the visitors of the bath from the sharp feeling of cold caused by touching the floor at the exit from the steam room. For self-drying, the flooring is raised above the level of the main floor.

The main disadvantage of the wooden floor of the bath is its frequent waterlogging - water, penetrating through the cracks between the boards, will accumulate in them, causing rotting and the appearance of an unpleasant odor. The wooden floor covering wears out quickly, acquiring an unsightly appearance; after 6-8 years, it may require replacement. Tile will be more practical for a bath floor covering - it is easier to care for it, it is not susceptible to the effects of moisture easily flowing down its surface.

The floors in the bath rooms must be placed at different levels: the floor of the steam room is 150 mm higher than the floor of the washing room (we keep the heat), the floor of the washing room is 30 mm below the floor in the dressing room (we protect against water ingress).

Since the installation of a concrete floor with ceramic tiles in a washing and steam room is more profitable than a wooden floor, we will consider this option.

There are several ways to arrange a concrete floor in a bath. First of all, we prepare the base for the formation of a warm floor - it consists of a 100 mm layer of sand and 100 mm of a layer of crushed stone of the middle fraction, laid sequentially. Each layer should be well tamped and leveled. Then lay roofing material on top, covering the walls with it to the height of the future floor.

Further actions:

1. First option- flooring of a 50 mm layer of felt, expanded clay or slag, on top of a 50 mm layer of concrete with the formation of a slope to the drain hole. After the concrete has set, it must be leveled with a cement mortar, after which you can start tiling.
2. Second option- 50 mm cement screed containing perlite (expanded sand). The composition of the mixture: perlite: cement: water as 5: 1: 3. After a full week has passed since the installation of perlite concrete, we apply a 30 mm layer of concrete on top with a slope under the drain. When dealing with perlite, you need to be especially careful - this material is extremely light, even a slight breeze blows it away, so you need to work with it indoors without drafts. Observe the exact proportion of water!

With a significant rise in the basement of the bathhouse above the ground level (from 300 mm), wooden logs of square section (side 150 mm) will be required for flooring. If the dimensions of the premises of the bath do not exceed 2000x3000 mm, then the logs of the frame will be the supports for the logs. For large sizes, additional supports for floor logs will be required, they are pillars of concrete or brick (250x250 mm) and are placed at a distance of 700-800 mm. The support posts for the lags must be placed on a multi-layer base of sand, crushed stone and concrete - each 100 mm.

Important! Before forming the base for the support of the lag, it is necessary to make the foundation for the stove-heater and build a sewage system.

Wood for logs can be oak, larch or conifers, logs should be treated with tar or antiseptic before installation.

The solution to the flooring in this case is as follows: the concreted space between the foundation is covered with roofing material with an overlap of walls to the floor height, covered with slag or expanded clay (a layer of 200 mm of foam can be laid between the layer of roofing material and bulk insulation), a rough floor of 29 mm is attached to the underside of the logs edged boards. Then a PVC film is laid, foil-clad mineral insulation, again a layer of film - for vapor barrier. On top, pour a 5 mm layer of concrete with a fine filler, create a slope under the drain hole - after 3-4 days we put ceramic tiles.

Do not forget to bring the stove foundation to floor level.

The floor in the dressing room is made of 19-29 mm softwood grooved planks.

An important point: when finishing the clean floor, and indeed the entire room of the steam room and the washing room, do not use synthetic building materials - this condition is especially important for the room of the steam room!

Bath sewerage system

To drain waste water from the bath, you will need: a sump with a water seal, a sewage well and pipes that drain dirty water into the sump and then into the sewer.

The pit comes off outside the basement of the bath, from the premises of the steam room and the washing room, gravity pipes made of plastic, cast iron or ceramics are brought into it (metal pipes will quickly rust).

The pit must be 500 mm apart from the foundation, its depth is 700 mm, and the section is 500x500 mm. The walls of the pit are covered with a 100 mm layer of concrete, and a 110 mm drain pipe (s) from the bath is inserted into it under the foundation. The main drainage well, containing at least 2 m 3, must be dug at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the pit - the further the better. A pipe is brought to it from the pit, laid down a slope at a depth of 1.5 m (below the freezing depth), its outlet from the pit must be located 100 mm from its bottom. After entering the drain pipe, the main drainage well is filled with gravel or sand 1 m from the bottom, and soil is poured over it - with a layer of at least 500 mm. Tamp each layer thoroughly when laying.

Before the outlet of the drain pipe into the pit, a galvanized water seal is installed, located at an obtuse angle to the drain pipe from the bath. Its edges and upper side are hermetically attached to the walls of the pit, the distance from its lower edge to the bottom should be no more than 50 mm - thanks to this design, unpleasant odors and cold air will not penetrate into the steam room (washing room) through the weir opening.

To prevent freezing in winter, the pit must be closed with two covers of the appropriate size (wooden or metal), between them to lay felt, and the top cover must be covered with expanded clay, slag or sawdust on top.

Log house, roof and blind area

It is better to make a log house for a bath to order from professional performers, its manufacture is rather difficult. The disassembled finished log house must be brought to the construction site and assembled according to the numbering of the logs. The crowns are fastened with steel 25 mm spike staples with a total length of up to 150 mm, a tooth length of up to 70 mm.

The roof structure of the bathhouse includes rafters, the sheathing is attached to them, then the roofing material. The choice of the final roof structure depends on the roof covering with which it will be covered. The rafters are attached to the last crown of the log house (preferably to the penultimate one) using spike staples. As a rule, the construction of baths involves the arrangement of a single or gable roof, the slope angle (from 10 ° to 60 °) of which depends on the abundance and amount of precipitation in a given area. Please note - the steeper the roof, the more material is required to create it.

Angled single-pitch rafters are attached with two external or internal and external supports. If the length of the span of the rafters exceeds 5 m, they are propped up with additional struts. The rafters of the gable roof rest on the lower ends on the walls, the upper ends are connected to each other, forming a ridge.

The roof of the bath can be covered with any material (slate, tiles, roofing material, galvanized, etc.), with an overlap of at least 500 mm on the walls.

The attic space must be ventilated, i.e. equipped with two doors at opposite ends of the roof.

We carry out a blind area around the perimeter of the foundation: we completely remove the top layer of soil, go deep 200 mm at a distance of 600-800 mm from the basement of the bath, lay a 100 mm layer of gravel (crushed stone, expanded clay) with its subsequent leveling. We lay expansion joints (19 mm board, covered with resin or bitumen, with a step of 2-2.5 m perpendicular to the foundation), fill in with a 100 mm layer of concrete. Before the concrete sets, its surface must be ironed - covered with dry cement with a layer of 3-5 mm. After 3 days, the line of contact between the blind area and the basement of the bath must be covered with bitumen to waterproof it.

Sauna log caulking

It is carried out to insulate a log house - to seal the gaps between its logs, linen tow, red moss, hemp hemp, woolen felt are traditionally used for caulking. Natural materials for caulking can be replaced by factory-made materials made from jute and flax fibers: linen and felt - jute and flax. The advantage of factory-made materials for caulking over natural ones is resistance to damage by moths and fungi, and it is easier to work with factory-made materials, since it is produced in the form of a continuous tape of a given thickness and width.

The caulking of a log house is carried out during its assembly - caulking material is laid between the logs during their laying. After the roof is built, full caulking is performed - from the outside and inside of the log house, a year later - repeated caulking (the log house is upset - the logs dry).

The main tools for caulking are a spatula and a beater, you can make them yourself or purchase ready-made ones. Both of these tools are made from wood (ash, oak or beech). The caulking blade looks like a wedge with a 200 mm long handle and a 100 mm pointed blade, 30 mm thick handle, 65 mm blade width at the base, 30 mm at the end. The wooden mallet has a rounded shape: the handle diameter is 40 mm, its length is 250 mm, the diameter of the striking part is 70 mm, and the length is 100 mm.

Caulking is done in two ways - "in a set" or "in a stretch". In the second way, we caulk as follows: collect caulking material into a strand, lay it in the gap between the logs and push it there with a spatula, filling the gap completely, without gaps. Then we collect the tow with a roller, apply it to the buried groove, take out small strands of material from it, wrap the roller with them and drive it into the groove using a spatula and a roller - with force, until we are fully confident that the groove (gap) is filled.

The first method of caulking log cabins is designed to cover large grooves (slots). We twist the material for caulking in 2 mm strands, from which we form several loops and drive them into the slot. The loops are collected in a quantity sufficient to completely fill the gap.

Caulking rules:

• first, the material is hammered along the upper edge of the log and only after - along the lower;
• We begin the caulking work with the slots of the lower crown, on both sides of it. Then we move on to the lower rim of the adjacent wall and so on. Having finished caulking the slots of the lower rims, we begin work on the next one in height, moving from this rim to the adjacent one in the nearest wall (from right to left or from left to right, it doesn't matter).

Do not under any circumstances caulk only one wall - it will rise and cause the frame to be skewed, you will have to disassemble / assemble it again. Let us remind you once again: caulking is carried out in the "bottom-up" direction along the perimeter of the log house.

We put the stove-heater

There are many design options for stoves for baths, they can be heated with wood, gas, liquid fuel or use built-in heating elements and heated from electricity, they can be brick, cast iron or metal. Brick stoves in baths are made with a wall thickness of "half a brick" or "a whole brick", the masonry joints must be tied up especially carefully, striving for their smallest thickness to achieve the highest efficiency of the stove. Only red bricks are used for laying the stoves. The furnace firebox is taken out into the dressing room, its remaining three walls are in the washing (steam room), while the distance from them to the walls of the washing room should be at least 250 mm - in this case, the heat will not go “into the walls”.

For a cast iron or metal furnace, the formation of an independent foundation is not required - only for a brick one.

The heaters, installed for lovers of steam, are equipped with a chamber containing stones of various weights (from 1 to 5 kg). For filling the stove chamber, rubble, pebbles, boulders and granite are suitable. The design of these stoves is extremely simple - similar to kitchen stoves, stoves differ from them with a larger pipe or the presence of a chamber with stones.

To obtain the highest temperature in the steam room, cast iron ingots must be added to the stones in a percentage ratio of 80:20 (stones: ingots). For every 1 m 3 of the steam room, at least 6 kg of stones and cast iron ingots will be required.

Observing a 40-50 mm distance in the furnace between its walls and the water-heating boiler, the effect of all-round blowing of the boiler with hot gases and the fastest heating of water is achieved.

For better draft, you need to bring the chimney as close to the roof ridge as possible. When passing the chimney through the attic room, be sure to fluff up the chimney 380 mm. Remember that the pipe should not run closer than 150 mm near the roof sheathing and rafters (fire regulations).

Electricity and water supply of the bath

To wash one user of the bath, at least 8 liters of hot water are required. This amount can be provided in several ways: heat a container with water on a stove, use a gas water heater, install an electric heater - boiler. If there is a central water supply, the pipeline to the bath is led from the main house - water from such a pipeline system must be drained in the winter, otherwise it will freeze and burst the pipes.

Water can be taken from a well or well by installing a submersible pump for pumping it and providing such a water supply system with purification filters. And in this case, in winter, the water must either be drained after each use of the bath, or the supply pipes must be insulated.

You need to extend an independent line to the bathhouse to supply electricity and the easiest way is to do it by air (air). For air, you need a special cable - we sweep away the "bare" aluminum immediately, stopping at two options: self-supporting insulated wire (self-supporting insulated wire) and VVGng. The first type of cable is very good, it has a long service life (over 30 years), it is strong and does not need to be supported on a supporting cable. But it is extremely difficult to carry out installation work with it, since it is too thick (the minimum section is 16 mm 2). The aluminum self-supporting insulated wire cannot be pulled through the attic of the bathhouse according to fire safety standards, it is required to fasten it to special anchor clamps - in terms of the amount of costs and hassle with its installation, its cost will be expensive.

A simpler solution is an air duct with a VVGng copper cable fixed to a supporting steel cable. The cable is suspended from a cable on an insulated plastic wire, its service life is up to 10 years, after which it must be replaced (!). For a single-core cable VVGng (of course, there must be two cores - each of them must be in an independent double braid), stretched through the air to the bath, the optimal section will be 2.5 mm 2 - it is not known exactly what electrical equipment the owner of the cottage will want to supply from it to the future.

All tuso-junction boxes, sockets and switches, electrical panel should be outdoor installation only. According to fire safety rules, it is forbidden to install junction boxes, switches and sockets in the washing / steam room - only in the dressing room. Do not joke with the possibility of a short circuit in a wooden structure - all the internal wiring of the bath should be made only in a non-combustible corrugated hose, fixed on special clips, the passage of the cable through the partitions - only through a steel pipe.

Try to arrange the cables in a junction box, socket or lamp so that they go there from the bottom or from the side, but not from the top - a drop of condensation, sliding along the braid, can cause a short circuit.

All electrical appliances must have a moisture resistance class of at least IP44 (better than the maximum - IP54). Install simple lamps - a metal body, only a glass shade. All connections of the internal cable routing - only on the terminal block, no twists. And install an RCD in the shield, setting it to 30 mA.

For work in the electrical panel and installation of the RCD, be sure to invite a qualified electrician, if you are not one yourself!

Installation of partitions, ceilings, interior decoration, installation of windows and doors

Internal partitions in the bath can be brick or wooden, followed by heat and moisture insulation in both cases. The partition between the washing room and the dressing room, in which the stove is installed, must be brick, or brick inserts are made in it by laying in one brick - on the sides in contact with the stove body.

Interior decoration is usually performed in cases where the bath itself is built of brick, stone or timber - here the finishing scheme is classic: insulation, vapor barrier film and lining. In addition, when performing external and internal decoration, you will have to rebuild the ventilation system of the bath, because the log logs will be covered with casing and will not be able to carry out full ventilation.

The ceiling is formed in two layers - rough and finishing. The draft ceiling is attached to the horizontal roof joists, if necessary reinforced with intermediate beams. Its area is covered with insulation - expanded clay or slag. From inside the washing / steam room, a heater and a vapor barrier film are attached to the rough ceiling, after which the ceiling is covered with a fine finish - linden, pine grooved board (from 20 mm thick - the thicker the board, the longer it will retain the woody smell).

In the bath, you need to arrange windows of a small size (on average 500x700 mm) and cut them in low - enough so that through them you can look out to the person sitting on the bench. The windows in the bathhouse are always made with double glazing, depending on the size - with a vent or fully hinged - for quick ventilation.

Doors in the premises of the bath must be installed so that they open outward - for reasons of fire safety. The material for the door leaves is a tongue-and-groove board (40-50 mm) or a board with a selected quarter, the boards are fastened with dowels. The size of the flaps must be deliberately reduced by 5 mm - more than is necessary for the actual distance between the quarters of the jambs - otherwise, when the humidity rises, the flap will swell and it will be difficult to open (close) it. The optimal size of the door in the washing section of the bath is 600x1600 mm, in the steam room - 800x1500 mm, with a threshold height of about 300 mm above the floor level (it is inconvenient to walk, but it will keep the heat). Hinges for hanging door leaves - brass, going into the dressing room (washing room) and into the washing room (steam room). The door handles are wooden (especially in the steam room).

The material for the shelves is linden, pine, poplar or aspen. The minimum length of the shelves is 1800 mm, the width is 500-800 mm. The distance between the "floors" of two-row shelves must be at least 350 mm, the minimum distance from the second row to the ceiling covering is 1100 mm.

The surface for lying is formed by a board with a width of 80 mm and a thickness of 40 mm; a gap of 15 mm in width is formed between the boards. A distance of 10 mm is maintained from the wall to the shelf. Shelving boards for shelves are attached to a frame made of timber with a section of 50x70 mm in two ways: from above - with the help of nails, the heads of which are sunk into the wood; from below - with screws. For fastening, nails and screws from stainless steel or copper are chosen.

All corners in the structure of the shelves are rounded, the surfaces are carefully cleaned with zero emery paper.

For greater convenience, the shelves in the steam room are equipped with a headboard: the height at the beginning of the rise is 30 mm, the length of the headboard is 460 mm, the final maximum height is 190 mm.

When choosing a material for creating shelves, be careful - it is believed that knotty areas are more dense and can lead to skin burns. Therefore, try to pick up boards and beams without knotty areas at all or with a minimum number of them.

Fire-fighting measures

Protect the bathhouse from the threat of fire - lay a steel sheet in front of the furnace, make sure that the oven doors are securely fastened, install fire extinguishing equipment nearby (a container with water, sand and fire extinguishers). Make sure you can freely open the steam room and washroom doors when firing up the sauna. Do not obstruct passages, spaces in front of doors and windows.

For a Russian person, a bath is not a luxury, but a vital necessity. Even historians are convinced that love for a bath broom and good heat is literally in our blood, and even in the poorest villages nearby, new steam rooms were regularly built every five years (the old ones burned down). And Peter I, during a trip to France, could not stand two days without his own steam, urgently ordering to build a Russian bath right on the bank of a foreign river, which shocked the natives a lot. But what if building is so expensive today, and public steam rooms are not to everyone's liking? And if rest in the steam room is not just useful procedures, but also valuable communication with friends, barbecue and the opportunity to breathe fresh air? Then we will learn the cunning tricks of modern Russian craftsmen who manage to build their steam rooms literally for vacation pay.

So, let's look at the most successful projects for the construction of baths and their implementation, where the main task was to save as much as possible, but at the same time not to lose in the comfort of bath procedures. After all, as they say, the most budgetary bath is the vestibule of a summer commuter train.

What can and cannot be saved on when building a bath?

Agree, no savings are worth the loss of health, property or life. But the most sad situations occur when the question of cheapness is approached rashly: at first, such baths slowly poison their owners with the release of hazardous substances, and then either burn or quickly deteriorate. But this does not mean that it is better to give up and give all the hard-earned money to the conscience of the construction team - it is better to just give up dangerous use during construction from the very beginning:

1. Uncertified materials and fakes, for which unscrupulous sellers ask for several times less. And at the same time they convince the buyer that "there is no difference with the expensive material, there is simply no markup for the brand, my brother / matchmaker / son-in-law has had a bath with this for half a century, and nothing."
2. Materials that are strictly not intended for the construction and decoration of baths. So, if it is impossible to insulate the walls in the sauna with foam plastic, then it is impossible, and this is not a whim of the manufacturer. Again, a neighbor who, at his own peril and risk, insulated in this way and is now boasting is not an example.
3. Unsuitable accessories for conducting electricity in the bath (wires, sockets), unprotected lamps or cheap Chinese products.
4. Homemade stoves and water heaters that no one has tested for fire safety.
5. Combustible materials and those that do not indicate that they can be used in conditions of high humidity and heat.

If you are building a bathhouse with your own hands and are forced to save as much as possible on materials, calculate your every step well, consult with experts and do not leave anything unattended “it seems to work”. And, finally, save on a limited budget better on cubic meters of the steam room, but not on the materials of its finishing. Such is the advice.

Let's take a little look at affordable heaters. So, basalt wool is made of stone (basalt). Its main advantage is that the fibers inside the insulation are connected not chemically, but by another technology, and therefore, even when placed behind the foil in the steam room, hazardous substances will not be released. This insulation is non-flammable and insulates the firebox well. For a bath - the best option. If you want to save money, then put one layer of basalt wool and a couple of layers of another, cheaper material on the ceiling.

Penofol is also used as an economical option - porous propylene with polyethylene film and foil spraying. You can buy it in roll form and attach it directly to a bare wall. This material is a good heat bridge between the wall itself and the insulation.

1. Purchase a stove without a remote firebox - so much less firewood will be spent on heating the steam room, and such a unit is inexpensive.
2. Be sure to install a water tank - this is the fastest and most economical way.
3. Make the foundation for the bath cheap and removable: it is much cheaper and easier with it to carry out repair work and change it to another.
4. Pay maximum attention to the insulation of the bath - the less you "heat the street", the more economical the heating itself will be.
5. Stick a bubble wrap on the window in the break room in winter - this will keep you warm by at least 50%.
6. Instead of a regular shower or shower stall, put a traditional Russian tub. And healthier, by the way. And it is not at all necessary to pour only ice water into it.
7. When purchasing lining, take short-sized bars - they are cheaper and look no worse.
8. Build the roof of the bathhouse low, no more than the ratio of width to height 1: 3. Such a structure will take much less materials, and the chimney will also not need to be made high.

Project # 1 - a compact sauna at a minimum cost

So, a step-by-step process:

• Step 1 - foundation. We will make the foundation columnar. To do this, you will need to get a 2 meter auger drill. Use ordinary cheap 110 mm sewer pipes as casing. Insert the reinforcement from two connected rods.

• Step 2 - strapping. Place studs 500 mm long under the harness. Assemble the strapping 150x150, and prepare the frame posts with a height of 2200 mm. Treat the frame with Neomid 440 or some other suitable for the same purpose.
• Step 3 - walls. You can modify the walls directly on the harness, and just raise them. We cover the DSP. To do this, we pre-drill the plates, and then fasten them with self-tapping screws with a semicircular head.
• Step 4 - the roof. We cover the roof with eight-wave slate. We save!
• Step 5 - insulation. Now we put in any inexpensive insulation that is suitable for a bath. In this project - Linrock Light.
• Step 6 - oven. We put an inexpensive oven, you can make it yourself. But under any, we must additionally lay out a brick corner.
• Step 7 - finishing. We fix the lining, skirting boards, cash holders.

So a compact and inexpensive steam room is ready.

If the walls, due to savings, are not too strong, then the smaller the bath is in volume, the better - so its structural properties will be higher.

Project # 2 - arbolite is used

And here is a good example of building a budget bath from wood concrete - at a price it does not come out much more expensive than frame technology. So, the outer walls of the steam room will be 20 cm thick, inside there is a brick partition from the stove.

This is how the construction process itself looks like:

• Step 1. We dig a drain pit with dimensions of 1.2x1.8x1.4 m. On both sides, we fill the OPGS with stones, make the formwork, fill it.
• Step 2. We dig a foundation 30 cm wide, up to 50 cm deep. We fill it with sand and ram.
• Step 3. We put the formwork, reinforce two rods at the top and bottom. We put vertical rods every meter. We fill the foundation.
• Step 4. We put EPSP in the washing and steam room, the mesh and fill the floors. In the washing room, we additionally organize a drain.

• Step 5. We put the blocks, check the evenness of the walls with a level.
• Step 6. We make the roof using 50x100 boards. The optimal distance between the rafters is 55-80 cm. We cover.
• Step 7. We cook the oven or buy a budget ready-made one. The ventilation scheme is as follows: outside the air goes to the gap between the stove and the brick wall, where it heats up.
• Step 8. Install the shower tank in the attic.
• Step 9. We decorate the walls from the inside. If possible, use Izospan FB - a special material for baths, plus heat-resistant tape. Izolon is good for the ceiling, which can withstand temperatures up to 150 ° C.

Such is the budget and quite successful bath.

When choosing wood concrete, pay attention: according to its density, it can be heat-insulating and structural. The first has a density of 400-500 kg / m, the second - 500-850 kg / m. This material is used for the construction of self-supporting walls and has good heat and sound insulation.

Project # 3 - miniature log bathhouse in national style

And if you can't imagine a Russian steam room made of another material, like a bar, you can build such a relatively budget option.

• Step 1. Align the platform for the foundation from the dropout, knock off the "formwork" and leave only the opening for draining water from the washing room.
• Step 2. We spread the EPS, knit the reinforcement cage. We fill it with concrete, make a ramp for water and the foundation is ready.
• Step 3. Laying the log house. Under the first crown we put a board treated with an antiseptic, which we cover with roofing material on three sides. You can put moss on the board itself - it has antiseptic properties, and therefore the bath crown will last even longer.
• Step 4. Build the walls and leave them for a few months to shrink.
• Step 5. Fasten the rafters and cover the roof. We make a pipe passage through the overlap - it is easy to make it from a metal corner and a sheet of stainless steel.
• Step 6. Between the steam room and the dressing room we make a frame partition, insulate it with mineral wool and sheathe it with clapboard on both sides.
• Step 7. We spread the floor in front of the stove with porcelain stoneware. We leave a special hole in the floor for supply ventilation.
• Step 8. We take out the pipe from the stove through the roof. The passage is made of Master-flush rubber, which is resistant to temperature. Seal the joint with the roofing with MS-polymer.
• Step 9. We fix the shelves in the steam room and turn on the electricity.

Remember, the first step to huge savings when building your own bath is to build it yourself!

Project # 4 - a steam room on a light frame from improvised means

The bars for the bath frame can be made even from collected firewood, if desired. The main thing is only to choose from them without defects and knots, and be sure to treat with an antiseptic.

So, we are building a budget bath from available funds:

• Step 1. We make beams for the frame, process and dry.
• Step 2. We build a pile-rubble foundation: we pull out the soil by a meter with a drill, forget thick pine stakes there and make a backfill of concrete and stones on top. Next, fill in the pillars to the top.
• Step 4. Assembling the frame.
• Step 5. Dig a hole under the drain, insert a barrel with broken bricks and rubble inside, take a ladder there. This is not an insulated summer option, but for a winter one you can lay a heater or a heating cable.
• Step 6. and the ceiling, put a film on top of the insulation. We put Finnish foil paper for saunas on the walls and ceiling.
• Step 7. We put the oven. Take with the register, tk. you need water heating for the washing room - in order not to purchase a separate boiler. So, it has proven itself well - inexpensive and heats well.

Such a bath serves surprisingly for a long time, the steam pleases and it is a pleasure to spend time in it. And you can always find cons.

Mini-baths: cheap and cheerful

But if there is no money at all for the construction of a steam room, you should not despair - today there are many options to build a steam room out of nothing. Let's take a closer look.

Barrel bath

This is the most common, only of a more solid size. Part of it is covered by a wooden lattice screen, behind which the stove is hidden. There is a small bench in front of the screen. Even three people can steam at the same time in such a bath. But this option is only for summer: they rolled it out onto the site, put it horizontally, threw firewood into the stove and you can pour water on the stones. But as a low-budget option - very much even nothing.

Hiking bath

Such a bath is taken mainly on a hike, but if there is no other alternative, it can be used on the site. It will be inexpensive, because it is an ordinary tent in which a stove or an electric one is placed. This is no longer the same soft Russian bath, but as a temporary phenomenon it also has a right to exist.

Built-in mini-sauna

There is also a fashion to do in the bathroom. So, we transfer the washing machine to the kitchen, and in its place we build something that looks like a wardrobe. This is a small structure, about 1.5 m high, made of a frame and upholstered with clapboard. Inside there is one seat shelf and a built-in steam generator. The person sits down, closes the door, turns on the device. But his head remains outside - for the sake of safety. Using special aromatic oils and other SPA-elements is quite a good way to improve your health. We can say that this is the smallest and cheapest bath in the world.

Baths in the car

If you have the opportunity to get a non-working minibus or a car with a body, you can finish building a small bathhouse right in them. Our website even has detailed master classes on how to do this, and such an undertaking will turn out to be much more profitable than starting the construction of a steam room with pouring the foundation. Experiment!

Almost every owner of a land plot, sooner or later, thinks about building a bath. After all, the bath is not just a washing room, but also an important element of a summer cottage. Turnkey construction of a bath can be ordered from professionals for a tidy sum, or try to build a bath with your own hands.

After reading this article, you can choose a project, find out the sequence of the construction process, get acquainted with the models of boilers and find the best option for a bath for your summer cottage.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to develop a project for a bath. To do this, it is not necessary to contact an architect, you can develop a simple project yourself, especially since now there are many computer programs for design.
Consider what size bath will work best for your family. What premises will be located inside the bath. What materials to make the foundation, walls and roof from, do not forget also about finishing the bath. An important point in the design is the placement of the boiler and the way it is fired.
Below you can familiarize yourself with the popular bath projects:

• • The bath project is 4x4 meters in size.

• • Baths project - 4x6 meters.

• • Baths project - 5x6 meters.

• • Baths project - 6x3 meters.

• Baths project - 3x3 meters.

After you have decided on the dimensions and materials for the bath, you need to make an estimate of the costs.

Foundation

For the construction of a bath, several types of foundations are used. Depending on the weight of the walls and the characteristics of the soil, foundations of the following types are made:

• Slab foundation.
• Column foundation for light walls.
• Pile foundation.
• Concrete strip foundation.

As practice has shown, the most reliable foundation for almost all types of soil is a concrete strip foundation, reinforced with reinforcement.

To make a strip reinforced foundation for a bath, you will need:

• Cement.
• Sand.
• Gravel.
• Armature.
• Formwork.
• Roofing material.
• Wire.
• Shovels.
• Concrete mixer.
• Harness.
• Stakes.
• Tools (pliers, hammer, tape measure, and others).

In the place chosen for the construction of the bath, mark the trench for the future foundation. For marking, use a tourniquet stretched between the pegs. The width of the trenches is made based on the weight of the material for the walls. For a one-story bathhouse made of wood or brick, it is enough to make a trench 30-40 centimeters wide. Having installed the markup, do the following:

1. Guided by the markings, dig a trench 50-80 centimeters deep.
2. Tamp the bottom of the trench and fill it with water to shrink the soil.
3. Cover the bottom of the trenches with tar paper for waterproofing.
4. Backfill the trench with gravel to a third of its depth.
5. Place the formwork around the edges of the trench.
6. Make a frame reinforcing the foundation from reinforcement rods connected by wire.
7. Place the reinforcement cage in the formwork.
8. Using a concrete mixer, make a cement slurry in the proportion of one part cement to one part sand and two parts gravel.
9. Pour cement into the formwork, taking care not to allow air voids.
10. After the concrete has dried, remove the formwork.

The foundation for the bath is ready!

Walls

The following materials are used for the construction of walls:

• Wooden bar.
• Logs.
• Boards.
• Brick.
• Blocks from various building mixtures (cinder block, aerated concrete, wood concrete and so on).

Since the construction of a bathhouse from logs or bricks is already widely described on the Internet, let's consider the option of building a frame bath from a bar of 15x15 and 5x10 centimeters and boards with a section of 2x15 centimeters:

1. 1. Make the bottom harness, for this take bars with a section of 15x15 cm and install them on the foundation, connecting them together with special metal plates and corners. There is another way to connect the bars, by cutting out spikes, grooves at their ends and then fastening them with screws or nails. When making the strapping, do not forget to put waterproofing under the bars.
   2. Install vertical racks of 5x10 cm timber. The distance between the racks is usually 50-60 centimeters. First of all, determine the position of the window and door openings and install the racks framing them.
   3. In the process of work, fix the already installed racks with temporary strips so that they do not warp.
   4. Make the top harness by attaching it to the ends of the uprights.
   5. When making the final fastening of the upper harness, carefully monitor the position of the uprights, checking their evenness with a level.
   6. Be sure to reinforce all corner joints with diagonal posts, this will help prevent the frame from skewing.
   7. Make a ceiling batten.
   8. After making the frame, make the outer sheathing of the walls of the bath with a board with a section of 2x15 centimeters. If you do not want the appearance of gaps between the boards, then make sheathing - "overlap", laying the bottom edge of the board on the nailed board. In appearance, this method resembles siding wall decoration.

1. After sheathing the bath from the outside, proceed to the installation of insulation. Foam or rock wool sheets are installed along the vertical posts of the frame.
2. On top of the insulation, it is necessary to install a layer of vapor barrier, which is attached to the vertical posts using thin slats.
3. After installing the vapor barrier, make the inner lining of the bath with clapboard or slats.
4. Insulate the ceiling by laying vapor barrier sheets on the inner lining, then insulation. Sheathe the outside of the ceiling with plywood sheets.

Please note that the manufacture and insulation of the ceiling can also be performed after the installation of the roof.

Roof

There are three types of roof for a bath:

• Shed.
• Gable.
• Difficult - consisting of four or more slopes.

Usually, the first two options are used for a bath. Let's consider an option for a gable roof covered with metal tiles:


Roof manufacturing begins with installation - Mauerlat. In the case of frame walls, the upper outline plays the role of the Mauerlat.

1. Place the uprights on the bed.
2. Connect the struts with purlins and braces.
3. Install the rafter legs by attaching them to the Mauerlat, girder and connecting the upper ends together. The distance between the rafters should be 50-60 centimeters.
4. Install sheets of metal tiles.
5. Sheathe the gables with wooden battens or sheet metal.

For a clearer acquaintance with the roof attachment, a picture is shown:


All sizes of roof elements are shown in the list:


Please note that the less you tilt the roof, the more snow load will fall on it in winter. Also, a small slope of the roof can lead to poor water drainage and leaks.

Floors

Floor construction depends on the type of room. The common wood floors are made in the break room. In the washroom and steam room, the floors are made of two levels:

• The first level is made of concrete and has a slope towards the drain hole.
• The second level is a finished floor of planks with gaps for water drainage.

If you want to make a floor from porcelain stoneware or tiles, then they are simply laid on the first level with a slope towards the drain hole.


In order to make a concrete floor and a drain in the bath, you need:

1. In the center of the steam room and the washing room, install plastic pipes with a diameter of 5-10 centimeters with a bell at the end. The pipes must go through the foundation to the street and connect to the sewage system.
2. Lay a layer of waterproofing material.
3. Spread a layer of gravel 10-15 centimeters thick over the entire area of ​​the rooms.
4. Make a grout and fill the floor with a slope to the hole installed on the drain pipe.
5. Install a grate on the drain hole to prevent debris from entering the drain.

In the second stage, wooden floors are made:

1. Install wooden logs in all rooms of the bath. Make the distance between the lags 30-40 centimeters. As a lag, you can use bars with a section of 3x5 cm. Or 4x6 cm.
2. Nail boards with a section of 2x15 cm or 5x20 cm on the logs.
3. In rooms where water is supposed to drain, leave gaps of 0.5-1 cm between the boards.

Do not forget to treat all parts with wood impregnation before starting the installation of wooden floors. When making floors, keep in mind that they should be higher, or at the level of the upper edge of the foundation.

Boiler

The model of a boiler for a bath will largely depend on your financial capabilities and the fuel that you will use for heating. If you know how to use welding, then you can make a simple boiler yourself, from thick sheet iron. If you prefer more advanced gas or electricity colas, they can be purchased from specialized firms.

The boiler in the steam room is installed in such a way that the combustion chamber is loaded with fuel either from the street or from the rest room (dressing room). The boiler itself, for fire safety purposes, is located 10-15 centimeters from the nearest walls. The walls are at the height of the boiler, covered with iron sheets. A good solution would be to overlay the boiler with a brick, there you will reduce its cooling time and protect the walls from fire.

When arranging a chimney for a boiler, pay special attention to the place where the chimney is in contact with the ceiling. The chimney opening should be insulated with refractory material. Also, pay attention to the place where the chimney pipe exits through the roof. Usually, this area is prone to leakage, so you should carefully cover it up. Below are the options for boilers for a bath:

• • Homemade boiler made of metal sheets.

• • Gas boiler.

• • Electric boiler.

• Solid fuel boiler.

Bath arrangement

After the bath is built, you need to equip it:

• • Bring all communications on the site to the bath - electricity, sewerage, water supply.

• • Place a sink, shower cubicle, light sources, and furniture for rest inside.

• • Decorate the walls of the steam room with curly slats and make stepped shelves.

• Buy wooden tubs, buckets, ladles and brooms.

After the arrangement, you can safely invite guests, take a steam bath in your personal bath!

Instructions for assembling a mini-bath for a summer residence without a foundation, you can also watch in the video:

Options for beautiful and unusual baths

In addition to traditional materials and designs for the bath, there are many alternative solutions. Below we present photos of the most unusual baths:

• Mobile bathhouse made of "lining", built on a car trailer.

• Bathhouse in a huge wine barrel.

• Bath from plastic bottles.

• Bathhouse dugout, built right in the ground.

• Bath, arranged in an iron container.

• Forest sauna made of untreated logs.

• A beautiful bathhouse from a gun carriage.

• Bath from not edged boards.

At the end of the article, I would like to remind you that the heating of the bath is associated with fire and high temperatures. Therefore, when building a bathhouse from bricks, logs, cinder blocks or boards, pay great attention to fire safety. This warning also applies to the wiring device, since the rooms inside the bath have high air humidity and the risk of a short circuit due to condensation is very high.


We hope that reading our article will push you to build a bath yourself!

The bathhouse is one of the integral parts of Russian life. Despite modern technologies and development, our compatriot is unlikely to refuse the opportunity to take a steam bath in the bathhouse, which he built with his own hands on the site. Even if you are not the happy owner of a city mansion, it can be built in the country. Many people dream of their own bath, but how can you make your dreams come true?

Bath from foundation to roof with your own hands. Construction features

Classic Russian baths are, of course, wooden buildings. They have some similarities to the Finnish sauna. For their construction, a log house is cut and cut from the inside. On the territory of Russia, pine and some other types of wood are used for construction as a building material. The main indicator when choosing is the minimum amount of resinous substances, since when heated and humid, such material begins to "sweat".

The very technology of erecting a log bath has its own characteristics and differences from the construction of a residential hut. First of all, these are increased requirements for the characteristics and quality of the material. The logs must be seasoned, straight and capable of providing a good connection.

Particular attention is paid to tightness indicators. Unwarranted heat loss will be very noticeable, which reduces efficiency. For maximum preservation of the temperature, caulking the walls is carried out with the help of moss or tow.

A bathhouse built from a bar or logs has an impressive and attractive appearance, but not everyone can afford the price of such a structure. A cheaper option is to use frame-panel technologies. It requires a small amount of materials, and the foundation itself will have lower costs, since mineral wool or similar analogs are used as insulation. In this case, there is no need to erect a massive foundation due to the low weight of the entire structure.

The advantage of the frame walls for the bath is the absence of the building upsetting. Nevertheless, there are also disadvantages of using frames - this is the appearance of moisture during snowstorms and rains. It is formed during the condensation of vapors. To avoid such troubles, waterproofing is used.

Before you start building, you need to figure out the main steps that need to be completed:

• The correct approach begins with the preparation of estimate documentation. It will allow you to display prices for all types of work and the necessary materials. In addition, the estimate will allow for adjustments and reallocation of the budget.

• After that, you can start creating a bath project. Without skills and abilities in this area, you will not be able to think through everything to the smallest detail. Therefore, it is best to invite a professional architect who will draw up drawings with the basic requirements and wishes of the client.

• One of the main stages in the construction of a bath is the selection of materials for the foundation. This building element directly affects the durability and strength of the entire structure.

• Next, you need to select the most optimal price and quality materials for walls and roofs. Today the construction market has a lot of proposals that can satisfy the wishes of everyone.

• When building a bathhouse, special attention is required to internal communications, such as electricity and running water.

• Depending on the size of the sauna space and personal wishes, it is necessary to choose a stove and think over the place of its installation.

• The final stage in the construction of a bath is finishing work inside the premises.

Bath from foundation to roof with your own hands

First you need to decide on the location on the site. This requires special attention from the owner. The choice itself depends on the size of the territory and the evenness of the surface. It is also worth considering the geometric parameters of the bath itself. It is worth considering the most optimal conditions for supplying communications in the future. To support the bathing traditions, it is built in the vicinity of reservoirs, in order to feel all the charm and contrast of sensations, plunging into cool water.

Development of a project for the construction of a bath

In the classic style, the bathhouse consists of three rooms: an anteroom, a steam room and a washing room. Quite often, the last rooms are combined into one. The dressing room is necessary for the location of the locker, benches, table and chairs. It is there that the company gathers for friendly gatherings. Shelves of bath accessories, firewood or coal are also installed here.

The choice and development of a bath project depends on the wishes, free territory and material capabilities. It is quite difficult to draw up a high-quality and well-thought-out plan on your own. To do this, it is best to invite an architect who can quickly translate your dreams into a real project. It should be noted that the dimensions can be arbitrary. But for maximum convenience, it is necessary to carry out calculations. For comfort, about 5-6m 2 should fall on each soaring person. However, in reality, both larger and smaller baths are being built.

The foundation for a bath with your own hands

Like other buildings, a bath requires the construction of a foundation, which must be laid to the depth of soil freezing. In this case, it is necessary to decide on the material for the walls. This is necessary to calculate the maximum loads, since the massiveness of the base itself will differ from the weight of the wall.

If you plan to erect stone walls, then you will need a strip foundation from rubble stone. Concrete, iron ore and brick can act as a material for the foundation. It should be understood that red and silicate bricks are destroyed in the ground due to the effect of moisture.

Having chosen the material, it is necessary to erect the foundation half a meter above the soil level. To level the surface, use a cement-sand mortar. After drying, it is necessary to lay the roofing material on the mastic. This will cut off the moisture coming from the ground from the building.

What type of foundation to choose for a bath

For a bath, you can use several options for the foundation. Their choice depends on the depth of the groundwater, the geometric dimensions of the structure and the materials of the walls. The most effective for a bath are:

• Lightweight tape made of concrete with a belt of reinforcement. It is used in the construction of simple structures that have a small specific weight. To create a strip foundation, rubble stone or concrete is used. They are fastened with a solution. For the device, it is necessary to prepare a pit with a gravel or sand cushion, 15 centimeters thick. As for the width of such a foundation, it depends on the size of the bath and the type of construction.

• Columnar with supporting concrete brick or metal pillars. This type is used for deep soil waters. It consists of supporting pillars located at the corners and around the perimeter. The distance between such posts should not exceed two meters. Concrete, brick, asbestos-cement or metal pipes are used as the material for the supports. They are buried in the ground to a certain depth, after which they are poured with concrete.

• Floating. This is an alternative option for which a monolithic slab is used. It can be used on any soil, regardless of the depth of the soil moisture. To arrange such a foundation, it is enough to dig a trench with a depth of 50-60 centimeters, at the bottom of which gravel or sand is poured. After that, a layer of waterproofing is laid down and poured with concrete.

• A screw foundation is used when building a bath on loose or unstable soil. It is created using helical pipes that have a pointed tip for easy penetration into the ground. It should be noted that the immersion depth of the piles may vary. The pillars are screwed into the soil by two or three people.

• Pile-screw grillage. It is used as an additional strapping using metal channels or timber.

In practice, people want to build a wooden bathhouse because of its unique properties. In this case, the most optimal type of foundation for building a bath with your own hands is a columnar one. Unlike other options, it has a number of advantages:

1. The device of a columnar foundation is within the power of almost everyone. This does not require special knowledge or the use of construction equipment.
2. A wide range of materials that can be used: concrete, brick and metal pipes.
3. The minimum expenditure of time and effort for its construction. Unlike concrete pouring, it dries very quickly.
4. This option is most effective for a bath, since ventilation and water drainage systems are very easy to organize.

Preparing the foundation trench

For example, let's take the conditions in which the soil freezes up to 70 centimeters, and the soil water is located at a depth of one meter. In this case, it is necessary to use support pillars with a diameter of 200 millimeters, deepened one meter into the ground.

First, you need to create a preliminary layout of all support pillars. They must be placed along the perimeter of the future building in one and a half meters increments. Additional supports are installed at the intersection of walls and corners. After marking all the pillars, it is necessary to drill holes. They should have a diameter of 50 millimeters larger than the pipes themselves. The bottom of the pits is filled with sand 20 centimeters thick, followed by tamping.

After that, pipes are prepared, which should protrude from the ground by at least 40 centimeters. As a result, they will be 1.4 meters long. Before installation in the ground, the piles are wrapped in roofing material. During the installation process, the pipes are covered with fine gravel or screenings, which will add additional strength to the structure. Bars are mounted in the supports for reinforcing the structure. The last stage is concreting.

Features of the foundation for the sauna stove

The design of the foundation depends to a large extent on the type of heating furnace that will be used. If you plan to use a device weighing more than 500 kilograms, it is worth considering creating a separate concrete cushion for the stove. To do this, you can use two options:

1. A columnar or strip foundation with additional structural reinforcement is created over the entire area of ​​the furnace.
2. Another widely used option is a monolithic concrete pad. It is placed exclusively under the oven.

Do-it-yourself water drainage in the bath

When creating a bath, you need to think about an effective system for removing water from the room. As you know, moisture is the enemy of buildings and reduces the life of materials. Because of this, water must be diverted at least 3-5 meters from the structure. In the floor of the bath, it is necessary to equip a drain, which through the pipe system will remove moisture into the sewer. Pipes must be laid below the freezing line with a slope of 3 centimeters per meter. You can also use surface trenches with a depth of up to half a meter, the walls of which are lined with clay.

The option of arranging the drainage system largely depends on the volume of water and, of course, material capabilities. However, it must be understood that there is a risk of icing when using a surface gutter. This situation can lead to uncontrolled flow on the ground surface.

If the water leaves the bath with the help of a drain, the slopes in the floor must be carefully calculated. If the floors are filled with cement, then the drainage is not a particular problem, since modern bottom drainage systems use pipes to divert the required volume.

Another element is a sewer well, which has several versions. If there is no drain well on your site, then a separate system must be built for the bath. At the same time, a size of 1 cubic meter is sufficient.

Digging a well will not be a problem. So that it does not crumble during operation, it is necessary to lay out the walls with bricks or cinder blocks. Many owners use car tires. For better filtration of the removed moisture in the wells, it is necessary to equip additional horizontal channels.

Bath floor device

First of all, under the future floor, it is necessary to cut off the living layer along with the sod. If the bathhouse is being built on a summer cottage, the land should not be taken out, since it can be used on the site in the future. The soil must be cut to a depth of 15 centimeters. After leveling the surface, you can start working.

The best material for a bath floor is a wooden board. The flooring should not be done above the level of the foundation, but a strong lowering is also unacceptable, since the flooring will absorb moisture from the ground. Additional posts from bricks need to be installed under the wooden logs. A grooved board is laid on all frames.

To drain water from the sink, perforation is made in the floor. It must be remembered that there is high humidity in the bath, which affects the wood. Because of this, it is necessary to leave gaps between the boards, which will allow the material to move without further deformation.

Another option for flooring is an earthen floor. To do this, you need to use a greasy clay that will not let water through. The water drainage system can be performed from the gutters. In order not to get your feet dirty on the clay, wooden lattices are installed. In this case, it is worth paying special attention to the efficiency of the drainage, since an unpleasant odor may appear during stagnant water.

As with other buildings, the floor can be made of concrete. This will facilitate the installation of communication systems and increase the service life.

Building the walls of the bath with your own hands

After completing the previous steps, you can start building the walls. A wide range of materials can be used for this. In the standard view, a bathhouse is a wooden structure, but nowadays it can be created from brick, concrete or rubble stone.

There are standards for wall thicknesses from different materials. The thickness of the concrete or brick for the walls should be 51 centimeters (two bricks). Using a rubble stone, these indicators are increased to the 75 centimeters mark. As for the wood, a thickness of 20 centimeters is sufficient.

Using wood as a building material for the walls of the bath, it is necessary to prepare. The main thing is that the logs are well dried and sanded. It is better not to use material damaged by insects or rot.

Of course, using concrete or brick, there are no such problems, but the structure itself will be colder. In addition, condensation forms from the constant temperature drop, which will need to be dealt with. When using wood, moisture is not a problem as it is quickly absorbed into the fibers and excreted through the pores.

For maximum protection of the log house for the bath, it is necessary to carry out treatment with special antiseptics and fire retardants. It is worth noting that wooden walls cannot be plastered, since moisture will not be removed to the outside. As a result, decay of the logs may appear. It is not superfluous to use steam and waterproofing of the structure.

Choosing a material for the construction of bath walls

At the beginning of the construction of a bath from the foundation to the roof with your own hands, a lot of questions arise, what and how to do. One of the main ones is the choice of material for the construction of walls. Today, experienced professionals in the industry advise using the following options:

• Profiled timber is one of the most popular and demanded materials for building a bath. They have a huge number of benefits. The main one is low thermal conductivity. In addition, the timber has an attractive appearance, gives clear and neat lines to the building. When choosing a profiled bar, you need to wait some time for the material to shrink, after which a professional caulking of the log house is carried out.

• Glued laminated timber is perfect for a bath, since it has a flat surface and does not require additional finishing work. Unlike profiled timber, this material does not require additional time for shrinkage. Because of this, the bath can be used immediately after the completion of all work. When using laminated veneer lumber, the walls retain heat perfectly, and the material is not subject to decay. It is worth noting that it is excellently resistant to chemicals and rodents. The only drawback is the high price, but it can adequately justify its quality in practice.

• Quite often, planed timber is used for the walls of the bath. This is, indeed, a high-quality and affordable material that combines excellent heat and sound insulation performance of a room.

• Most owners use logs to build a classic Russian bath. Of course, a chopped structure has its own subtleties during construction, which must be observed. One of the features is the observance of the straightness of the fibers. Kinks in wood grain are a clear indication of poor material quality. In addition, the service life depends on this indicator. After the construction of the walls from the logs, it is necessary to dig in the gaps and cracks.

• To create not only a high-quality, but also an attractive building, rounded logs are often used in the construction of a bath. The material is reliable and very durable. The disadvantage is the shrinkage time, which is one year. Only after waiting for the final shrinkage, you can continue finishing work and laying communication systems.

• One of the economical options is to use a wireframe. This is an excellent solution, since the structure itself will be lightweight, which in turn will save on the foundation. Yet the main advantage is the speed of construction. Subject to the technology, such structures have excellent characteristics and can last for a very long time.

• For maximum safety and durability of the bath, brick is used as a material for the walls. It is a modern and affordable material that is widely used in all types of construction. So that the bath is not cold, it is worth making the walls two bricks thick.

• To date, the cheapest option for building walls in a bath is a cinder block. This material also allows you to quickly and easily complete construction.

• Aerated concrete is modern and of high quality. Due to its excellent resistance to moisture, the structure will last a very long time. At the same time, the thermal conductivity of aerated concrete is very low.

Despite the abundance of various materials, for building a bath with your own hands, preference was given to burs and gas blocks. Therefore, it is necessary to consider in more detail the features and characteristics of these building materials.

Features and benefits of aerated concrete bath:

1. The blocks are relatively lightweight, which significantly reduces the pressure of the finished structure on the foundation.
2. Perfectly protects the premises from wind and frost.
3. The porous structure allows moisture to wick away.
4. Fast and easy installation work.
5. Construction does not require the use of specialized tools or equipment.

The advantages of a bar when erecting the walls of a bath:

1. The material does not require additional finishing. With personal initiative, you can carry out simple manipulations to improve the appearance of the building.
2. The beam is convenient for installation and does not require the use of complex technologies.
3. Using this material, there is no need for additional insulation.
4. The timber is a durable and environmentally friendly material.

The technology of laying beams for the walls of the bath

A do-it-yourself bathhouse from foundation to roof will last a very long time, if you adhere to the technology of laying beams. This material is tightly laid to the pins around the entire perimeter of the erected foundation. For the strength of the structure, holes with a diameter of 25 millimeters are made in the timber. At the ends, cutouts are made for grooves or spikes. Insulation materials are laid at the place where the elements are connected to each other.

Professionals recommend using larch beams for the lower rows. This wood practically does not lend itself to decay processes and perfectly withstands temperature extremes. After that, you can use material from any wood species. Before starting to fold the walls, it is necessary to prepare blanks that will correspond to the geometric parameters of the future bath. After that, they are collected in boxes.

In parallel with the construction of walls, it is necessary to insert window openings and door blocks. You also need to remember that the joints between the bars should not be very tight. The gaps formed are filled with insulation.

The order of laying the beams

• The second wreath is laid on the first beam, which lies on the foundation. After that, through holes are made in the upper one, the lower one is drilled to half.

• After that, the upper bar is removed. Dowels are driven into the holes made, the length of which should be one and a half times the height of the bar.

• Before applying the next row, tow is applied along the entire length. Only then can the following beams be applied and the dowel can be hammered.

• It is imperative to cut down the dowel. Its height must be more than 2 centimeters. This will allow you to firmly fix the bars and avoid lifting in the future.

If you decide to use a different material for the construction of walls in the bath, then the technology is the same as in conventional construction. At the same time, do not forget about door and window openings. In the steam room, the installation of glass blocks will be relevant, which effectively withstand high temperatures, moisture and perfectly transmit light.

Bath slab and roof

Only dry wood is used as a material for covering the bath. These can be boards, slabs, or plates. The final choice depends on whether the attic will be used in the future or not. If you plan to use this space only as thermal insulation for the bath, then you can safely use the croaker. This will save money. But if you plan to use the attic for your own needs, you need to use high-quality materials that can withstand the weight of a person or the property stored there.

The front side of the ceiling requires sanding to create a more beautiful look. If plastering is planned in the future, then this procedure is not carried out.

As for the attic side of the floor, it should be covered with tar paper or roofing felt. As insulation, you can use furnace slag or backfill with earth, the layer of which should be 20 centimeters. Before filling the soil, it is necessary to sift it to remove the roots or seeds of the plants. You can also take adobe as insulation for the attic of the bath. This is a layer of clay and straw. This is very common because it will allow the clay to trap fumes and prevent fires.

The bath roof itself can be made from various materials, namely: slate, roofing felt or shingles. To create a colorful look, reeds or straw are used. Such options will be able to emphasize the individuality and peculiarity of the structure. When building a roof, it is necessary to make an overhang of at least 50 centimeters. It is also worth taking care of effective ventilation of the attic. Before you need to heat the bath, the ventilation must be closed.

Bath doors

Do-it-yourself doors for a bath can be made on dowels; this will require boards with a thickness of 4-5 centimeters. With the material opportunity, you can buy ready-made structures. In any case, it must be borne in mind that the effect of steam will increase their size. Due to this, it is necessary to observe the technological gap so that there are no problems with opening in the future.

Steam room doors should have a width and height of 70x170 centimeters. If desired, they can be higher. The disadvantage of a high doorway is the escape of heat accumulated at the top of the room when they are opened. To avoid drafts in a heated room, it is necessary to make the threshold quite high, from 15 centimeters. Despite the slight discomfort, it avoids the unpleasant cold that stretches over the legs.

Bath windows

Like any other building, the bath must have windows, the total area of ​​which must be at least 10% of the entire floor area. By adhering to these standards, you will get sufficient daylight. It will also help fight mold and mildew that will dry out when exposed to sunlight.

Taking into account the rather cool climate of Russia, the windows must be placed at a height of 80 centimeters above the floor. If you plan to place two window frames side by side, it is worth leaving a half meter wide partition. When installing adjacent frames, a gap of 15 centimeters is required.

As you know, through the glass is an active release of heat from the building. To reduce these losses, it is worth using designs with two or three glasses. For maximum tightness, the formed gaps between the box and the window are sealed with tow or similar insulating material.

As for the size and geometry of the windows in the bath, they can be made at the request of the owner. There are no strict criteria in this aspect.

The device of the oven in the bath

A do-it-yourself bathhouse from foundation to roof cannot exist without a special oven that will produce heat. Their configurations can be very diverse.

The most optimal and effective option for a bath is a stone stove. When creating it, it is necessary to carefully tie up each seam on the masonry, and the seams themselves are made as thin as possible. Fired and refractory bricks are used for construction. The lower level of the sauna stove should be 10 centimeters above the floor level.

At the request of the owner himself, you can place the firebox in the washing room itself or on the side of the dressing room. The latter option is more convenient, since it is drier in the dressing room. Despite all this, three sides of the oven must be brought out into the washing room, which will significantly increase heat transfer. It is also worth leaving a gap of 25 centimeters from the walls of the building. This will allow the room to heat up faster.

Design features of the sauna stove

Do not think that building a stove yourself is very difficult. By their design, the furnaces may differ slightly from each other, but still they are made according to the same principle.

The entire heating structure is installed on a ground base. For maximum strength and safety, a layer of rubble or rubble is laid under the stove, and the gaps are covered with sand. Next, the foundation itself for the furnace is created, while it must have a flat surface.

For laying out the firebox, burnt brick is used, and a sandy-clay solution with a small proportion of cement is taken as a binding material. It is worth adding more sand when making the mortar, as excess clay will create cracks and reduce viscosity. In addition to the firebox, a blower is laid out for traction, which is located below. For efficiency, it should have an area half the size of the firebox itself.

Frames and doors for the stove must be bought in the store, since it is problematic to make such structures on your own.

The back of the oven should be covered with a 10 mm thick sheet of quality metal. To improve the efficiency of heat transfer, it is better to use cast iron throughout the entire length and width of the furnace. This will be the work surface that will give off heat. A chimney hole with a diameter of 150 millimeters is cut out in the center of the sheet. An afterburner with a height of 70 centimeters is installed in it. For this manufacture, a pipe with a diameter of 30 centimeters is suitable. This chamber is necessary for extinguishing sparks and afterburning gases.

The entire structure of the afterburner and the heater is covered with 5 mm steel. As for the stove, it is filled with stones by 1/3. It should have one door mounted on the side of the washing room, and the second one goes into the steam room. A steel pipe is used to remove smoke from the stove. All gaps between the furnace structure and the pipe are sealed with mortar.

A water heating tank is installed near the afterburner system. Its volume should be within one hundred liters. It can have a wide variety of geometric shapes. The main thing is that the bottom is in contact with the stove tiles.

A variety of wood species can be used to fire a stove in a bath. It should be noted that conifers give a large amount of resins. When using oak, you get a lot of heat and a minimum of soot. You can use coal or gas, but not worth it, because they do not have the same spirit.

A similar design of the sauna stove gives light steam and low consumption of firewood. With a full tank, the water can be heated up to 90 ° C. These are the most optimal indicators for a Russian bath.

Bath interior and interior decoration

The bathhouse from the foundation to the roof with your own hands in the original Russian style should be finished with high-quality boards with a minimum content of resinous substances. The best option for arranging the interior space is materials from aspen, linden and birch. You can also use cedar. Pine can only be used after special processing.

With the material opportunity, you can not be limited to the flora of the temperate zone. To create a unique interior in the bath, you can use tropical trees. Mahogany looks enchanting in a bath. Recently, the abashi tree has become very popular among our compatriots, which is used by the indigenous population of Africa for the manufacture of kitchen utensils.

Making the inner lining of the bath, it is customary to place the boards vertically, with a careful fit to each other. The walls inside are not painted to avoid the release of harmful substances at high temperatures. In addition, painting will reduce the vapor permeability of the material. In the steam room itself, the walls up to a height of one meter can be covered with modern glazed tiles. This makes it easy to clean the most dirty areas.

The floor and ceiling of the premises must be upholstered with plinths along the entire perimeter. The skirting board must be waterproof with a height of at least 10 centimeters. It is installed in such a way that the bottom row of sheathing covers it. This installation technology allows the flowing water from the walls not to fall behind the skirting board.

As for the flooring, it should also be wooden, but without insulation. This is due to the fact that water constantly gets on it, and the insulation system will not allow you to effectively remove moisture. To facilitate the cleaning process in the baths, especially in the steam room, the floor is covered with ceramic tiles. In this case, it is worth maintaining slopes up to the drain hole. If a sewer system is used, then a siphon is installed in the floor. It will eliminate unpleasant odors from sewer pipes.

The humidity and temperature in the bath varies greatly, therefore it is necessary to carefully select the material for the doors. The most optimal option is glued wood, which practically does not change its size with changes in humidity. As for the windows, it is worth using modern heat-efficient double-glazed windows to minimize heat loss.

If someone tells you that he is absolutely indifferent to the bath, do not believe it. In order to convince such a person, it is enough to take him to a bathhouse built with his own hands. After steaming, he will definitely say that he always loved to steam. There are a lot of people in our country who are looking forward to the weekend in order to go to a bathhouse for relaxation with friends.

Now you know how to build a bathhouse from foundation to roof with your own hands. Of course, there are a little more wisdom and tricks than described in this article. Still, you got an idea of ​​the stages of building a bath with your own hands. Enjoy your steam and excellent health.