Extension to a wooden house living room. What to make an extension to a private wooden house? Designing a new premises

One of the advantages of living in the private sector is the possibility of self-construction according to your own project - you can build a house of any size (naturally, within the available land area) and then, if necessary, increase it in size. If the strength of the foundation allows, the house can be increased in height or, conversely, increased in length or width - so to speak, make an extension to it, which will be discussed in this article. Together with the site site, we will deal with materials and technologies that allow us to independently solve the question of how to make an extension to the house? And we will start with the study of materials, where we will figure out which materials and under what circumstances are best used.

How to make an extension to the house with your own hands photo

How to make an extension to the house: the choice of materials

In general, there is one iron rule that is better not to break. It sounds like this - what the house is built from, from which you need to make an extension to it. At least that was the case before, when the choice of building materials and technologies was limited to bricks, other blocks and clay. Today, during the advanced technological progress, things are a little different - there are technologies that allow you to break this rule, and grossly. Now you can easily attach a brick building to a wooden house, revet it with the same and get a building that looks solid. In general, it is not at all necessary to become attached to the old building in terms of material.

Now in more detail about the most popular materials, through which you can quite simply solve the question of how to make an extension to the house with your own hands?

Blocks of various formats and bricks. It makes no sense to break them into separate subgroups, since the technology for their use is, in general, the same type - a foundation is being built on which, block by block, brick by brick, the walls of the extension are laid out. The only thing that distinguishes this whole thing is the properties and qualities of the materials - this is important, and it is imperative to take them into account when choosing materials. Let's start with the classics -. Strong, durable, material - considering it is very expensive. Moreover, the brick is a rather cold material, which will additionally have to be insulated, and this is a plus for the cost of the extension. In addition, this material requires a solid foundation. In this regard, it looks much more attractive - its price is a couple of times lower, the blocks are larger and the material itself is much warmer. Where the brick will need to be laid out in three rows, it is enough to lay the cinder block in two rows. Aerated concrete looks even more attractive - it is light, and the question of how to properly make an extension to the house can be solved even on a shallow (0.5 meter) foundation. Moreover, it is a very warm and porous material, which, with a thickness of 200 mm, is able to effectively retain heat in the premises. After plastering, it acquires a very decent strength, which makes the structure reliable. In principle, other block materials can also be considered - for example, shell rock is often used, it has shown itself well in terms of maintaining heat in rooms (popularly called sawdust concrete).
How to make an extension to the house photo
. To date, this is the most optimal option not only for an extension, but also for the construction of private houses in general - the essence of this technology is the manufacture of a wooden and metal frame, followed by its sheathing with such sheet material as. Insulation is laid inside the frame, which makes the structure very warm. By and large, now it is the cheapest technology, which, among other things, boasts simplicity and a very fast pace of construction. The only thing that the frame extension is not able to boast of is its durability. Although who knows - with proper observance of technology and proper care, it can stand for about a century. We will talk a little further about how to make a frame extension to the house.

In addition to the options described above, you can consider the technology of building an extension using the method of monolithic concreting. Moreover, it is not at all necessary to use real heavy concrete for these purposes - the so-called slag concrete may be the best option in such a case. Slag houses are very warm in winter and cool in summer - they are durable and able to serve for a very long time.

How to make the foundation of an extension to the house: features

The main problem in making the foundation of the extension is to connect the new and the old base. If it is done incorrectly or not done at all, then no matter how you splice the walls of two separate buildings, a crack will still appear at the place of their joining. Moreover, it is through, with all the ensuing consequences - heat leakage, condensation and, as a result, the appearance of fungus and mold in this place. In general, there is little pleasant. That is why special attention should be paid to the following points.

In principle, these three nuances will be quite enough to securely connect the two foundations together. Alternatively, if you, of course, can get to the bottom of the base of the existing house, extensions can be added a little under it.

How to make an extension to a brick house: the nuances of joining walls

Docking a frame structure to a brick or any other block house is not a problem at all - a vertical beam of a wooden frame or a profile of a metal frame of a structure is simply attached to the wall of the building with anchors and that's it! There are practically no nuances here - except perhaps the observance of the vertical level of this beam and the sealing of the junction. The last operation is performed either with the help of mounting foam, or with the help of the so-called PSUL tape (pre-compressed sealing tape).

How to make an extension to a brick house photo

Another thing is the docking of a brick or block building with a similar house. Here things are somewhat more complicated, and you cannot do without special embedded parts or ligaments. It is possible to ensure a reliable connection of the walls without bandaging the blocks only by driving iron embedded parts every 4-5 rows of blocks. Holes are drilled in the wall of the existing building (two, one on each side of the block at a distance of 3 cm from the edge) - reinforcement is hammered into them, which should protrude from the wall of the house by at least 30 cm. When a new block is laid on it, the cement will securely bind the two walls into a single whole product. As an option, again, you can make potholes with a puncher, which, paired with reinforcement, will ensure a reliable connection of two block walls with each other.

How to make an extension to a wooden house photo

And in conclusion, the topic of how to make an extension to the house, a few words about the connection of walls with a block or brick extension. This combination of buildings is also common, and it will not be superfluous to know how they are connected. In fact, you will have to make a metal girth for the blocks - it is attached to the wall of a wooden house by means of powerful self-tapping screws and is a kind of channel, inside of which a block or brick wall exactly enters. By and large, this is the same option that is used to attach a wooden extension to a brick house, only exactly the opposite.

Very often people have to make an extension to the house. The reason may be the need to increase the space, but a simple redevelopment of this problem does not solve, and you have to expand. Or the house was originally designed inconveniently - for example, the “box” that was adopted earlier by architects, which is completely irrelevant today, because complex projects are now in vogue. Perhaps the early construction did not take into account the "wind rose", so it was necessary to make an additional protective structure in the form of a garage, veranda or workshop.

In general, there are many reasons why people decide to intervene in the integrity of the house. At the same time, it is very often necessary to redo housing made of wood - especially if it is an old housing stock. Consider how an extension to a wooden house is made and how realistic it is to build it with your own hands.

Not an addition, but a complete part!

It is important to understand that the extension is not at all a makeweight to the main building, as the name might suggest. It is also an important element of the whole structure. Structurally connected with it and subsequently affecting the entire viability of the house. If this is not taken into account, in the future there may be problems with the stability of the entire house. Not to mention that the appearance of the house can be spoiled. Therefore, do not try to save on a good foundation, a well-thought-out project - these flaws will come out after an increase in the cost of maintaining a house, an increase in heat loss and many other surprises. And, of course, you need to agree on construction projects and obtain all the necessary permits.

The foundation is the basis in every sense

Whatever construction of an extension you start, you cannot do without a foundation. Since the extension is a constructively independent structure, it is also desirable to build it in two steps to make the foundation, and after a year, when it settles down, shrinks, continue the construction of the rest. This will help to avoid deformation changes in the design and, therefore, prevent the occurrence of cracks and other defects.

The foundation is always arranged taking into account the terrain, soil, weight of the house and extension. It can be U-shaped adjacent to the house, or it may not be connected to it at all (this also happens when they decide to build a fourth wall in an extension).

As for a wooden house, the foundation of the extension requires special attention. Depending on the choice of material for the extension and on the way it is attached to the house, the foundation base can be either tied to the house with reinforcement or separated from it with expansion joints - so that parts of the house of different materials sit autonomously and do not lead the corners of the house.

Frame-based extension

Frame extension organically fits into the design of the house

The construction of an extension to a wooden house can be started from any wall material. However, in terms of price-quality ratio, an extension using frame technology will be preferable to others. It does not require a complex foundation and heavy walls. At the same time, the shrinkage of such a structure is minimal, you can quickly finish and complete the construction. At the same time, it is quite possible to do such work with your own hands. By the way, the frame construction method involves thinner extension walls without reducing thermal conductivity, so the building is smaller, and the living area itself is larger.

The foundation with such material is sufficient without deepening, it is easy to do it yourself, for example, tape or tile. A waterproofing material - roofing material - is laid on top of it.

An important point is compliance with the general style of the main building. After all, if an old house is built of timber or logs, then it will not be easy to make and cut an extension from a completely identical material, both from a technical point of view and from a material standpoint. But it is possible to sheathe the frame extension with the material that imitates the walls of the house. In this case, it will be possible to repeat the cuts, and the ends, and other structural elements.

To attach an extension to a wooden house, rack-bars are attached to the walls of the house, elements of wall cladding will subsequently be nailed to them. The frame itself can be made with your own hands according to the diagram below.

Stages of work:

Lay the perimeter of the strapping with a beam of at least 15 cm. Use the same beam or board to set the corner posts using a level.
Make the top harness from edged boards. Fasten the boards to the top trim with self-tapping screws.
The walls are insulated with expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam or mineral wool.
Lay hydro- and vapor barrier, securing them also with self-tapping screws.
Sew up the insulation with OSB boards, plywood, drywall, etc.

Extension on frame-beam technology

An extension to the house from a bar can be used as part of the house

In general, these are all variants of the wireframe method. In this case, the frame is also a bearing part, and the cladding is made of glued or profiled timber of small section. The beam acts simultaneously as an external facing material.

At the same time, if everything is done correctly, an extension to a wooden house with your own hands will come out no worse than in the picture about wooden architecture.

The new part can shrink for the first six months, and in order to avoid distortion, it is attached to the old building either with metal brackets or with special metal corners. Both of them are not tightly fastened to allow the extension to “play” a little when the timber shrinks.

The connection of two foundations is better when both foundations are made by the same method - if tape, then they are fastened with reinforcement. If you connect everything correctly, then the extension will be securely attached to the main building, despite the movement of the soil.

Aerated concrete extension

Foam blocks during construction allow the developer to take advantage of additional architectural opportunities

This material has advantages - it is light, warm, and easy to build. But at the same time, foam concrete is brittle and undergoes deformation. Facing work cannot be postponed until next season, so that the seams do not burst, while the quality of the blocks is often criticized.

Another point - the heterogeneity of the materials of the extension and the house can lead to a shift from the effects of weather and other factors. Therefore, if you intend to attach from foam concrete, then the best option would be not to connect them, but to lay a layer of mineral wool between them, which is then sewn up with any suitable material.

The same way should be done with a brick extension. By the way, brick, as well as foam blocks during construction, allow the developer to take advantage of additional architectural opportunities.

The use of metal frames for extensions

Metal frames are applicable for the construction of low-rise private housing

Modern manufacturers recently have a new offer - strong and durable metal frames. They are applicable for the construction of low-rise private housing or an extension is needed.

However, compared to the wireframe method, this method is more expensive and more difficult. Therefore, private developers have resorted to reliable wooden frames for the time being.

Building a new residential building is an expensive and somewhat risky undertaking. Another issue is the expansion of the existing building in order to increase the usable area. Attaching an extra room to a country house or cottage will cost much less than building everything from scratch. But this does not mean that designing and installing a new room is a simple matter, there are a lot of pitfalls on your way. In order to avoid mistakes, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the recommendations on how to make an extension to the house with your own hands and at minimal cost.

What kind of extension to make

To answer this question, you will have to do the design, from which any construction begins. Sketch the plan of the old building to scale, locate the extension and plot it on the drawing. By thinking about the internal layout of the new part, you can accurately determine its dimensions. Draw a side view to get an idea of how much space you have in terms of height given the slopes of the roof.

An important point. Careful drawing and verification with real dimensions on the spot will help to avoid unpleasant errors associated with the size of the part being erected, its height, and especially with the slope of the roof. The minimum angle of the roof slope is 8 °, you can’t do less, otherwise leaks will appear after showers and snowfalls.

A full-fledged project should provide material for the construction of an extension. Its choice depends on the purpose of the new premises:

A full-fledged room with access to the hallway, equipped with heating and other communications - a bedroom, a kitchen, a bathroom or a bathroom. This is a capital building, built of brick, aerated concrete, foam block and their combinations. Timber products are also well suited - timber and logs.
Light extensions - a veranda, an open terrace, a vestibule or a porch with a polycarbonate canopy. It is better to build such premises on a frame made of wood or metal structures, sheathed with OSB boards with subsequent finishing. The greenhouse and winter garden are made of glass.
Outbuilding to the house - barn, garage, boiler room. These structures are both capital and light, the choice of material depends on your desire and capabilities. Common options are cinder block, shell rock and wood. A more progressive solution is sandwich panels with insulation on a rolled metal frame.
A separate question is what to make an extension to the balcony of an apartment building on the ground floor from. The answer is simple: the same partition should adjoin the brick wall so that the structure does not fall out of the exterior of the building. Near the panel house, you can use any stone blocks, but then they will have to be finished to match the color of the surrounding walls.

Note. Regarding the building materials used, not requirements are listed, but recommendations. You are free to make an extension at your discretion, for example, to build a brick structure near a log house. But such solutions are more difficult to implement, and most importantly, more expensive.

How to make a foundation for an extension

For attached premises, 4 types of bases are used, depending on the weight of the structure and the quality of the soil:

columnar - for lightweight structures on a wooden frame;
a pile-screw foundation is used on subsiding soils for the installation of wood and metal structures with a small mass;
tape - for heavy stone buildings;
a reinforced concrete monolithic slab is poured over the entire area of the attached part, erected from bricks or blocks on unstable soils.

An example of a columnar base made of concrete

Advice. Modern frame houses are increasingly placed on screw piles. If this is your case, then the choice of foundation is obvious - a pile-screw foundation, it makes no sense to use another type.

A solid concrete slab is used quite rarely due to the high cost, and screw piles are best left to professionals in this field. To independently attach a light veranda or summer gazebo, a columnar base is recommended. For brickwork or walls made of gas blocks, it is better to fill in a concrete tape, we will consider these 2 methods further.

Traditional strip foundation

columnar base

A properly made foundation of this type is cheaper than tape and is well suited for light buildings. Its device begins with marking the site and designating the mounting points for future vertical racks of the frame. The pillars, and hence the soles for them, should be placed in increments of 1.5 m, as shown in the diagram.

The further course of action is as follows:

Dig square holes 50 x 50 cm in size at the indicated points, deepening 70-80 cm. The task is to put a support on dense stable soil, so the bottom of the pit must be tamped.
Sprinkle 15 cm of sand or fine gravel and compact again. From M150 concrete, pour a platform at the bottom, and after hardening, cover with roofing material in 2 layers (waterproofing).
Lay out the 38 x 38 cm square posts of red ceramic bricks to the required height.
Apply a bituminous primer to the walls of the columns or stick a welded waterproofing. Lay the roofing material on top of the support again.
Cover the sinuses around the foundation with earth and lightly tamp.

Reference. Foundation pillars for a frame extension can be cast from M200 concrete, but then you will have to put up formwork and knit reinforcing mesh.

Strip foundation device

Under the base of this type, you need to dig a trench along the contour of the future premises, which is shown in the photo below. The width of the ditch should be made 15 cm more than the thickness of the brick or foam block wall. The depth depends on the location of the stable soil layer and ranges from 50-100 cm. The walls of the pit must be cleaned, and the bottom must be tamped and a sand cushion 100 mm thick should be poured.

Advice. When digging a trench, be guided by the depth of the foundation of a private house (if it is reinforced concrete or block). The rubble foundations of very old dwellings can be less buried, so you should not be equal to them.

The order of work is as follows:

Compact the poured sand and install a wooden panel formwork with external supports and internal stretch marks (possible from studs with nuts) that do not allow the sides to move under the weight of concrete. The height of the formwork is not lower than the level of the basement of the existing building.
Tie or weld frames of corrugated reinforcement with a diameter of 8-12 mm to make cells 10 x 15 cm. Install them in the trench on stands 50 mm high.
Prepare the M150 concrete mix in the following proportions: M400 cement - 1 part, dry sand - 3 parts, crushed stone with a fraction of up to 40 mm - 5 volumes.
Perform layer-by-layer pouring of the strip foundation to the height of the base of the house. It is highly desirable to compact concrete with special vibrators (rent).
Remove the formwork after 7 days, and continue work after 3 weeks, when the concrete mixture has hardened.

Advice. So that the concrete does not lose milk during pouring and subsequently does not absorb moisture, cover the trench with the formwork with plastic wrap before installing the reinforcing cages.

If you want to make the extension warm initially, then after the foundation has solidified, insulate it from the outside with foam plastic, or better with foam plastic. Lay drainage along the bottom of the ditch and fill the sinuses with soil, then cast the blind area with insulation, as shown in the diagram. For an unheated extension, treat the base with bitumen or stick waterproofing (for example, from the well-known brand TechnoNIKOL). Lay roofing material in 2 layers on top of the plinth and proceed to the formation of the floors. You will learn about all the stages of work by watching the video:

Floor installation

The first stage of building an extension to the house with your own hands is the installation of floors, which are of 2 types:

flooring on wooden logs;
cement strainer.

Note. On a columnar foundation, floors can only be built on logs, and on a strip foundation - any one to choose from.

The wooden floors of the extension are made using the following technology:

Lay wooden lintels on the brick posts - bars with a minimum section of 10 x 15 cm and fix them with anchors. On the corner supports, join them in half a tree (how to do this is shown in the photo). Fasten the bars between each other with steel corners on self-tapping screws.
Install the lags in the same way.
If insulation is not required, then lay a rough floor of 40 mm thick boards.
To insulate the floors, nail cranial bars to the bottom of the lag, lay boards and insulation with vapor barrier on them. Then lay the rough floors.

An example of connecting beams in half a tree

For a screed device, the space inside the strip foundation is covered with earth, compacted with watering. From above, fill the recess with expanded clay to a height of 20-30 cm and fill in the screed. Let it harden for 2-3 days and proceed to the construction of walls.

Construction of extension walls

The order of construction of an open veranda or porch depends on the project and design of the structure. But in any case, the installation begins with the installation of vertical racks and tying them together with horizontal jumpers. Here, a wooden beam 10 x 15 cm or steel profile pipes with a section of 80 x 60 mm or 60 x 60 mm are most often used.

Reference. The builders of frame houses practice a different technology: the wall sections are entirely assembled on the ground, and then they rise and are attached to the foundation and to each other.

Docking of the beams is best done in half a tree or in a groove with fixation with steel corners on self-tapping screws, as shown in the diagram. From above, the pillars are united by a horizontal beam, where the roof rafters will subsequently lie. The ends of this jumper are securely attached to the wall of your house. A cold extension can be immediately lined with OSB boards (OSB), which will make it possible to tighten the frame. The heated room will need to be insulated with mineral wool 100 mm thick. For more on the construction of frame walls, see the video:

The main walls of the extension are built of bricks or blocks according to all the rules of masonry - with dressing of the seams and checking the vertical. The first row is laid around the entire perimeter, and then you need to form corners, raising them by 4-5 rows. Next, a wall is built to the same height, after which the action is repeated.

Advice. Tie brick or block masonry to the walls of the house by drilling holes through 2-3 rows and inserting reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm into them.

Roof installation

As a rule, the roof of the extension is made on wooden beams, based on the existing wall of the house and a new partition. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

Attach with anchors to the wall of the building a horizontal board with a thickness of at least 50 mm to support the rafters. In a stone outbuilding, lay the same boards on top of the walls and secure them.
Install rafters from a board of 15 x 5 cm (minimum section) in increments of 600 mm to match the size of the slab insulation. Screw them to the supports using steel corners and self-tapping screws.
Lay the waterproofing on the beams - a diffusion membrane with an overlap of 10 cm and nail it to the rafters with planks.
Lay roofing - slate, metal or corrugated board. In order for water to drain properly from the roof, slate must be brought under the roof overhang of your home.

Simple truss system of a wooden extension

If necessary, insulate the roof of the extension by inserting mineral wool slabs between the beams by surprise. From below, beat the insulation with a vapor barrier film and sew it with facing material. More information about the installation of the roof of the extension is described in the video:

Conclusion

All work on the construction of an extension to the house is best done with an assistant, many operations alone are inconvenient to perform. You can cope with a one-story building without any problems, you just need to allocate time. Do not forget to treat the wood with an antiseptic compound and paint it well so that the frame of the porch or porch will last for many years.

Sometimes it happens that after the construction of a country house, it turns out that it has a small square, or there is a need for a separate kitchen, hozblok, workshop or barn. In this case, you have to make an extension to the house. To reduce material costs to a minimum, you should immediately think about what to build it from.

How to build an extension to the house with minimal costs, with photos and examples, how to prepare the foundation for it, what material to choose for the walls and roof - later in the article.

general information

In the event that water supply and sewerage are planned in the extension, as in the case of the construction of a kitchen or bathrooms, this issue should be puzzled before pouring the foundation.

If you plan to use the extension not only in the summer, then you should provide for floor insulation, for example, using expanded clay bedding. It is also useful to think over in the case of living in winter how to heat the room.

As an easy extension option, you can equip a veranda - it provides protection from wind and bad weather. In winter, it will not be possible to live on the veranda, since, as a rule, it is not heated.

The extension must be in harmony with the main structure. An economical, warm and prefabricated version of the building is a frame made of wood, after erection it is easy to finish it under the main building. It has many advantages:

simplicity and speed of construction;
relative cheapness;
environmental cleanliness of the extension;
there is no need to build a capital foundation.

Foundation construction

For a veranda or a frame-type residential extension, a columnar foundation is suitable, since the weight of the structure is small. If there is a need to bring communications, as is the case with a bathroom or kitchen, it is necessary to ensure thermal insulation of the water supply and sewerage sections located on the street. This will cost a pretty penny, but the costs are much less than if it were necessary to equip a strip foundation. The floors in such an extension are made of boards so as not to burden the structure.

The concrete pillars on which the structure will stand are poured 50x50 cm in size at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other. The bottom of the pits under the pillars is covered with a layer of sand, then with rubble, and all this is carefully rammed.

Pillars must be reinforced to give strength to the foundation. The formwork is removed about a week after pouring, when the concrete has gained strength. As a waterproofing, bitumen or roofing material is glued to the poles.

Bottom trim and floors

In order for the frame extension to serve for a long time, it is necessary to provide waterproofing and impregnate all wooden elements with an antiseptic and fungicidal composition. High-quality waterproofing gives bituminous mastic.

A 150x150 mm timber is used as the lower trim, preferably from larch. Under it, a roofing material is necessarily planted to isolate it from the foundation. The first row is laid strictly horizontally in level, without connecting the timber at the joints.

The second row is laid with overlapping joints on the first. Then, with the help of studs, the first and second rows are connected. You can use 50x150 mm boards instead of timber, and in order to achieve structural integrity, they are connected to self-tapping screws.

The lower harness is attached to the beds, on which the logs are laid. Insulation is placed between the lags, for example, polystyrene, and subfloors are laid. Finishing floors are laid from moisture-resistant plywood.

Walls

The walls are made in two ways - either they assemble the structure on the ground, and then erect it, or gradually build the frame in place. For the first option, several people are needed, since the structure cannot be lifted alone.

The erection process begins with corner posts, it is very important to maintain right angles in all planes. For racks, a bar with a section of at least 100x100 mm is used. The pillars are placed at a distance slightly narrower than the width of the insulation sheet.

Openings for windows and doors are equipped with additional pillars and crossbars. The top of the frame is fastened with an upper strapping of the same design as the lower one. Sheathing is carried out with OSB, siding, plywood, clapboard.

Roof and insulation of the extension

The roof is easiest to equip with an ordinary shed. It should be done as a continuation of the roof of the main building. This is possible if the extension to the house is side. The roof of the extension must go under the main roof.

All elements - rafters, beams, crate must pass with an antiseptic. The roof is overlapped and, depending on its type, is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws or slate nails.

Styrofoam or mineral wool is used as insulation. First, the frame is sheathed with a hydrobarrier, then an insulating material is placed between the racks of the frame, and a vapor barrier is attached between it and the lining. Then they attach OSB or drywall to the racks, and proceed to the fine finish.

Photos of extensions to the house

When, for various reasons, it becomes necessary to expand the living space of a private house, the most economical and technologically simplest option is a frame extension. Its advantage is the speed of construction with your own hands with a minimum skill in working with a carpentry tool. Step-by-step instructions for the construction stages with photos will help you make a useful and beautiful extension like in the video, which will last for many years.

So that the extension does not subsequently have to be transformed, even at the planning stage, you should consider the nuances of the design. First, decide on the purpose of the new premises.

With an extension, you can expand the area of \u200b\u200bthe house

Additional room. The construction of an additional room is tantamount to building a house with a small area. All structures of the new building must be thoroughly insulated, otherwise the heating of such a room will be inefficient due to the large heat loss. You should not save on waterproofing and insulation of the foundation, otherwise dampness and mold on the walls will make it impossible to live in such a room.
Kitchen or bathroom. Take care of the engineering communications before you start building the foundation. The places where water or sewer pipes pass through the foundation must be well insulated. This is easier and cheaper to do at the construction stage.
The veranda is a light extension to the house of an open or glazed type. Used for summer holidays. The building is not heated, so the design is extremely simple: flooring, walls and roof on supports. Do not forget about harmony, the veranda should be combined with the house in terms of scale, style and construction materials.

We select the base

The veranda can be attached or built-in. If the second one is planned at the stage of building a house, then for the first one you will need to build a separate foundation. With a gap from the wall of about 40 mm. Otherwise, during shrinkage, the monolithic base will collapse due to the different weights of the veranda and the house. The seismicity of the soil and the weight of the future building are taken into account. A lightweight foundation erected on soil prone to heaving will “lead”, and the extension will move away from the house. Such a base is designed for light walls; shrinkage is inevitable under the weight of brickwork.

Pillar foundation made of bricks

Different materials are used for construction: concrete, brick, stone, piles made of wood, metal or concrete. It is important to choose the right depth and type of foundation for the extension:

tape;
slab;
columnar;
pile;
pile-grillage.

In private construction, when erecting a base for a veranda, a columnar or tape structure is most often used. Let us consider in more detail the step-by-step instructions for arranging the foundations.

Strip foundation

For large and heavy buildings, a tape type of foundation is chosen. It is advisable to perform it from concrete in this sequence.

Important. Before erecting walls on the foundation, it is necessary to apply waterproofing. Use roll materials or mastic.

Column Foundation

For a light frame veranda, it is appropriate to erect a columnar base, which is built of brick, rubble stone or concrete. Or a combination of these materials. Pits under the pillars are dug to a depth below the freezing of the soil. The step between the posts is about 60 cm. The sequence of work:

dig square holes 50 x 50 cm. Sand is poured into the bottom and carefully compacted;
a layer of concrete mortar is laid, and after complete setting, they begin to erect brick supports. Use the level so that the masonry is strictly vertical;
the concrete support is made in the same way as the tape type foundation: the inside of the formwork is wrapped with waterproofing and a reinforced frame is inserted. The form is filled with concrete, and the top is leveled. Wet concrete a couple of times a day to avoid cracking;

For a veranda, a columnar foundation is enough

after complete drying, the formwork is removed, waterproofing is applied to the pole, covered with several layers of roofing material on top - the material will protect the wooden beam of the floor from getting wet;
the remaining voids are filled with backfill: soil mixed with crushed stone is poured, its ramming is carried out every 15 cm of the layer.

Important. The height of the foundation pillars is calculated so that the distance to the finishing floor of the extension is 30 cm.

Floor: wood or concrete

A concrete or wooden floor is arranged on a tape type foundation. The base on the pillars is obviously calculated for arranging a wooden floor. Let's take a look at both technologies.

Construction of the frame and walls

Wall structures are erected from timber, fastened to previously assembled crown beams of the strapping. Wall elements are assembled on a flat area in a horizontal position, and then the finished wall shield is mounted in a vertical position, or each beam is connected to the beam in series. Step-by-step instruction:

On the lower strapping bars, every 50 cm, make a cut for vertical racks.
Mount the racks, fixing with corners and screws.
Assemble the top harness.

Frame erection

The veranda is connected to the house by attaching a vertical bar to the wall.
Fix all racks adjacent to the house with anchor bolts.
It is better to immediately sheathe the finished "skeleton" of the veranda from the outside with plywood, boards or OSB. This will give the structure rigidity.
After erecting and insulating the roof, insert windows and doors.

Covering and roofing

Shed type of roof is combined with almost any roof of the house, therefore it is the most common configuration. Let's consider it.

Wall and floor insulation

Mineral wool is used as an insulating material for walls. The mats are easily and quickly laid between the frame bars, as can be seen in the photo. When laying insulation in several layers, the mats are shifted relative to each other in order to exclude heat loss through the connecting seams. The insulation is covered on both sides with a vapor and wind insulating material that will protect the material from the accumulation of moisture, and sheathed with a finishing material on top. Internal walls can be sheathed with chipboard, drywall and covered with wallpaper or lined with clapboard. For the exterior wall, use wood, siding, or materials that match the finish of the home.

The floor on wooden logs is insulated in the same way as walls: mineral wool is laid on the subfloor between the logs, having previously covered the boards with a waterproofing membrane. A second layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation, and then leveled with plywood. After that, a fine floor covering is mounted.

A concrete floor can be insulated in the same way as a wooden floor, dry screed can be applied, a concrete screed can be made and water or electric heating can be installed.

Home craftsmen often overlook the need to comply with safety regulations. Use personal protective equipment and a well-functioning reliable tool, and then you will have only the warmest memories from the construction of the extension.