Sticker furniture edge. Glue the edge on the table top with your own hands

Hello dear friends!

As a rule, the melamine (paper) edge, and a thickness of 0.5 mm and a thickness of 0.5 mm.

Although, I believe that everything that can be cheaply ordered on the side - you need to order, freeing yourself from unnecessary routine work.

But still there are times when this procedure has to do it yourself.

Melaminic edge I generally do not advise the ends of the details, as the savings are kopeck, but the quality of such a product will be low.

But PVC is sometimes kicked, it is possible (but not thick, so if its thickness is 2 mm, then there will be special equipment for such an operation).

So what is needed for adhesive?

First, we need special stops into which the item is inserted.

They are usually made from waste chipboard independently (they are clearly visible in the photos).

At a minimum, there must be two, in the case when the item is big.

Secondly, I need an iron.

It should be heavy, and on the spiral (old options). In this case, it will hold high temperatures for a long time (it is measured visually, with a finger on which saliva).

Such irons can be bought on the "flea markets".

Hear it and try.

It should not burn the edge, but should also melting the glue, which is applied to its opposite direction.

Metero to all this, of course, experience. You need to try a couple of times, and everything will become clear.

Next, you need to have a sharp knife, or a scalpel, or a razor, etc. They cut off the excess edge hanging from the edges of the part.

And the last thing you need - a lump, which is packed with a small "shredder". She is burned with processed ends.

This is done so that the glove edge can not be accidentally torn.

Yes, forgot. You need another piece of felt, which pressed just the glued edge.

And the process itself is quite simple

Detail is installed on the focus.

It is barely shaped (cut off) a piece of edge (with a small margin) and falls on the right edge.

After that, it is carried out by a preheated iron "under pressure", at the same time, pouring the glued part of the detail with felt.

When the edge "grabbed", it is clipped with a knife.

This operation should be done correctly.

The blade of the knife should go along the plane of the part, thus cutting off the protruding part of the edge.

If it will go at an angle to the parts plane, it will be constantly "killed" into the angular edge, and this will leave the chips.

After the remnants are cut off from the details, all the edges on the edges of the part are "shredding".

If the item, or with roundings, then the case is more complicated.

At first, you need to treat such a part of the mill, so that it has the right face, and only after that move to sticking.

But in this case, the whole procedure, of course, will be more difficult.

On this, I repeat: these things order "on the side".

That's all.

It often happens that the furniture in the house is subjected to various kinds of influences: mechanical damage during permutation or move, temperature difference (for example, in winter), excessive humidity.

The cabinet furniture will deteriorate, and, as a rule, "suffer" the ends of the chipboard: the chips, cracks are formed, and sometimes a poorly applied edge is dug apart.

The modern consumer is trying to save on everything, including on the services of the furniture studio. As a rule, it is caused by the idea that the furniture makers are "lifting" the price for their work, the fear of poor quality repairs and of course the lack of free time.

Thus, the consumer is trying to solve the problem independently, placing repairing furniture completely on itself or familiar "Cleells". Let's try to figure out what it can lead to.

First it is worth noting that a simple person does not have any professional equipment at hand, as, say, at manufacturing enterprises. No machines nor suitable materials that, by the way, are also not always available to the usual consumer, and which is not committed in them.

So, for example, do not everyone know that the edge of PVC, protecting the ends of the chipboard with the adhesive basis and without. Not to mention the variety of edge material: from the most simple edge from melamine to the edge of ABS-plastic.

What makes the consumer in this case? Trying to understand the subtleties spends a lot of time to study the issue. As a result, it makes the decision to use the primary means.

It is also worth adding that far from everywhere will be able to purchase the edge of the required color, which coincides completely with the color of the furniture. For this requires at least the nomenclature of the decors of LDSP of various brands.

It is worth saying that not all fittings sellers have in stock the edge of the necessary color and ready to sell "on the Metrazh". In modern economy, most shops are simply not profitable.

Now about the process of gluing. To begin with, it will be necessary to independently disassemble the furniture, and delivering a restored item, prepare it for further processing that at home is already difficult: the disassembled furniture takes a sufficient space of the house, prevents you from your loved ones.

For gluing the edge with the adhesive base, many use a construction hairdryer or iron. With the help of these devices, a strong heating of the adhesive layer occurs, after which it is necessary to immediately glue such an edge to the ISP end. It is necessary to do it quickly, as the glue cools fast enough.

What, by the way, does not happen on the machine, where glue is supplied from a special bath, which supports the desired temperature.

But if the processing on the machine is even a very large plate takes place in a matter of seconds, then at home it can take a much longer time. After all, it is not only important to apply the edge to the end of the plate, it is necessary to smooth it out and suck it in such a way that it does not move earlier than the glue solidifies.

For gluing the edge without adhesive base, some use the popular "moment" in the people. Which although quite well seizes the various surfaces, it is still not able to withstand heavy loads on the surface.

Thus, you want to summarize the above, collecting together all the pros and cons repairs of furniture at home.

Minuses:

• stressful search and purchase of the necessary materials for repairing furniture
• cost of electricity to work high power heating devices
• lack of skills and knowledge, time and place for work
• significant waste of time, forces and means.

Pros:

• no need to contact "doubtful" companies
• the ability to boast the result from the result before friends. Of course, if this result is reached.

Otherwise, the consumer simply will lose a loss of time and nerves. From spoiled furniture will have to get rid of and hastily acquire a new one. And this is already a lot of money.

So, how best to do? Of course, we recommend always to contact professionals. Few people know, but now most Atelier provide such a service for the edge banding of LDSP.

What does it mean? And the fact that experts will select the edge of the required size and color, they correctly take it on the chipboard, carefully collect and disassemble, deliver furniture.

Obviously, this is the best option of saving time and cash. If you still have doubts about the work of professional furniture makers, we recommend that you look at the professional machine.

In our company, you always have the opportunity to choose the necessary color and decor of the edge material almost under any plate of LDSP. Full as always available on our website.

The melamine edge, despite the fact that it was invented enough for a long time, it is still quite widely used in the manufacture of modern cabinet furniture. The same today appeared and gained widespread its competitors (PVC and ABS edges), which, however, do not affect the popularity of the melamine edge.

Among its main advantages, you can select such qualities as low cost and simplicity of stickers and processing (no complicated equipment is required, everything you need in any modern house - but we will talk about it later). The main lack of such an edge material is low mechanical strength (where PVC is only a little bit, melamine will have interference).

In general, this type of edging materials firmly settled in small workshops and do not intend to leave them.

We will analyze the process of incoming the melamine edge in detail. The edge itself is sold with a thermoclaim applied to its inner edge (in the photo visible as a small mesh).

To work, we need iron, scissors, metal ruler, lump with shallow sandpaper and glove. The glove is enough to pull on the left hand (there will be a tool in the right).

We put the item on the end (you can fix it in a vice or other fit, so that it does not fall). We put the edge on it, making a small ot from the end.

We stroke the heated to medium values \u200b\u200b(with overheating glue boils and the edge goes with bubbles, after which it can be broken and throwing out) with an iron edge first towards the left hand.

Unfortunately, both hands do not fall into the frame, as it does not work with them and the camera at the same time.

At the same time, the iron is preferably kept perpendicular to the details of the spout to yourself (the fact is that the Soviet models have a small concave on the sole, which does not allow tightly pressing the edge to the surface, and the rear-way so that the wire does not interfere with the work). Maybe you will find a more comfortable position of the iron, but I do this way. The first movement of the iron goes to the left hand, while it lines the position of the edge. In this case, the tape primarily sticks to the surface. Then we lead the iron in the opposite direction, rolling my palm left after him.

We remove the iron and continue to press the edge to cool the glue (4-6 movements with hand).

Scissors cut off the tape "To the Edge" from the main tape.

Immediately turn over the workpiece and cut off the edge from the reverse side.

So the sinks from the end of the workpiece are removed. And it turns out this flush with its end. For this, manufacturers are offered special end cutters, but as can be seen from the photo, scissors are not worse.

Now we move to the removal of overhangs with long faces. For this, the workpiece is placed on the ramp so that the edge hung from the workbench (so we do not risk breaking the soles).

A simple metal ruler or a square is taken in the hands (many use knives, pieces from Rubankov and other exotic, but I prefer it to a line, because sharply sharpened ironers at the slightest change in the corner of the cut to strive or move up or, worse, crash into the detail material, damaging laminate. The line can not do it).

The square is stacked on the blank at a sharp angle to the edge (as in the photo) and one movement of the excess ribbon are cut. At the same time, it should not be bending - the ruler should be tightly fit to the surface of the workpiece. Together with the sink edge, the surplus of glue is so cut, which often protrude from the junction site.

In principle, the edge is already quite smooth. But to achieve a better effect it should be submitted.

For this, we take into the hands of the grinding lump with small grain (P180, for example) and make one or two (no more) movement, at an angle of 45 degrees to the workpiece, aligning the edge and removes possible burrs.

Sometimes there is a phenomenon like non-flocks. It becomes clearly visible just after removing the sink.

We take the iron again and warmed the defective place, at the same time pressing the edge.

Then again palm strongly press the edge ribbon to the workpiece. As a rule, this happens enough.

Now the shake of the edge joint in the corners. The edge (it is desirable to immediately cut off with a small allowance - it is more convenient to work with short sections) is applied to the workpiece.

Pressed the iron and also rolls his palm. As a result, it turns out this junction that needs to be modified.

Scissors, putting the top branch to the edge of the workpiece strictly in parallel, cut off the surplus.

There is a small (no more than 0.5 mm) residue.

It is cut by toning the scissors at an angle of about 30 degrees.

As a result, it turns out such a joint. From the end it also remains to cut the excess ribbon by the ruler according to the described method.

The edge in furniture production is necessary to protect the end edges of the product from chips, cracks and other damage, and it also protects against the effects of moisture and formaldehyde vapor.

What kind of edges are, as well as about the ways of gluing them and how to glue the edge with iron and hairdryer, you will learn from this article.

Types of edges - why are they needed

1. The most common view - edge melamine with glue on paper basis. It is used to finish the inner sections of furniture. Affordable, inexpensive, but not the highest quality option. Does not tolerate moisture, rapidly wear out. It is easily glued at home by a simple iron.
2. T-shaped flexible profile - represents a T-shaped bar, it is inserted into a slot in the side of the chipboard or MDF. The damaged element is further conveniently replaced without flashing furniture. For installation, the milling machine will be required.
3. PVC Cant - reliably protects the ends of furniture from damage, is distinguished by wear resistance, resistance to moisture. To glue the PVC Cant, the edge processing machine will be required, so the use of this type of edges at home is difficult.
4. ABS plastic is an eco-friendly version without chlorine. It is valued for resistance to high temperatures and physical damage.

All options can be divided into two subspecies - edges without glue And with glue.

The average cost of the profile for one time-meter:

• PVC thickness of 0.4 mm - about 25 rubles,
• PVC 2 mm thick - about 40 rubles,
• Material from melamine for chipboard - about 25 rubles.

In our country, they actively use products from Rehau, which offers a large selection of color solutions, as well as different ribbon widths from 15 to 45 mm.

To simplify work, you can use various specialized furniture programs that calculate how many materials will be required for gluing edges.

PVC edge - how to glue at home

To work will be required:

• iron or construction hairdryer,
• and of course buy PVC edge with glue
• hard roller
• newspaper or paper sheet

The material is heated so that the glue becomes sticky. Heating is performed by iron in synthetic mode.

• The profile is applied to the end so that it overlaps the end of the site.
• Next, the iron is again performed through the newspaper. Since glue dissolves quickly, the process is active enough, and the iron is conveniently moving along the PVC edge.
• The edge itself needs to be carefully pressed and stroke until it sticks along the entire length.

1. Printing with a construction dryer. Instead of an iron, you can use a construction hairdryer. PVC edge is heated from the adhesive side and when the composition becomes sticky, the material is applied to the end of the desired site, clamp and gently smoothed.
2. Glue with the "moment" glue. This method is suitable if there is no adhesive layer on the edge. The end quality is checked manually, remove sawdust, litter, dust, until the surface is clean. Then on the material, and glue and wait for the end and wait until it grab. After that, apply and pressed. Using a roller, the area is rolled so that the glue grab quickly.

VIDEO

How to remove excess material

If it was not possible to gently glue the edge from the first time, the procedure will have to be reused. To do this, glue again and pinch a profile using a roller or manually.

Since usually the PVC edge width is taken with a margin, you need to safely remove the surplus along the edges. To do this, use the usual stationery knife or file. It takes both hands and pressed on the protruding fragment. As a result, the extra pieces are laid out and the edge remains that coincides in the width with the site.

Completion of work

After everything glued, it will remain to treat the irregularities of sandpaper.

How to glue the edge to the chipboard - description

The melamine edge is the best option for use at home, when it is necessary to restore the old furniture with minimal cost. If the furniture is expensive, it is better to turn to professionals that use another more expensive and high-quality material.

Consider how to glue the edge on the worktop from chipboard At home.

Great video on the topic

The following materials will be required for work:

• sking
• sharply sharpened knife jamb,
• roller for gluing wallpaper
• melamine edge
• construction hairdryer or iron.

Algorithm of actions:

1. choose an iron operation mode so that it does not heat up too much and burns the chipboard and at the same time ensured proper melting of glue,
2. edges of chipboard under the sticking to handle sandpaper, eliminate irregularities,
3. measure profile
4. it is necessary to heat it with an iron and tightly press to the area with a roller (if there is no adhesive layer, it will take self-applying glue to the edge, for example, the "moment" glue),
5. cut with a knife hanging edges.

Trim needed at an angle along the edge, slightly climbing the material. Then it will remain skin to handle edges so that there are no burrs and irregularities.

If the edge of the edge and the chipboard itself, the details are slightly different, the simulator will help correct the difference.

In the case when the item has a complex shape, and the edge of the surface is characterized by complex relief, it is not always possible to glue the material from the first time. In such a situation, it is worth contacting professionals in order not to spoil the product.

What glue to choose for edges

Furniture Professionals are actively used melt glues for edges. They are convenient if production is supplied to the stream, and it is required both high quality results and fast speed.

Melt adhesives are thermoplasts, that is, when heated, they become very elastic, and when cooled quickly solidify. For these properties, an ethylene polymer with vinyl acetate is responsible for these properties. The lack of use is to attribute the need to use special equipment, namely the corresponding machines or manual pistols for applying glue into parts and warm it up.

1. In domestic conditions, PVC glue is often used, which gently glues paper materials to different surfaces. Uniform without lumps of light color Mass well glues the surface, but moisture is afraid. It does not require the use of additional equipment, therefore it is convenient for the operation of non-professional masters.
2. Universal adhesives "Moments and" 88-Suite ", which reliably stick the material to the surface of the chipboard and PVC. After 3-4 hours, the product can be used. Adhesives are inexpensive, secure and available.
3. From professional furniture glue for edges It is worth noting the products from Kleiberit. The company offers adhesive adhesives for cladding, for gluing the material by the soft-forming method (in case the surface is embossed), as well as for cladding.

In the manufacture or repair of furniture, masters have to be separated by the edge of the product. For this purpose, a special face edge from PVC is most often used. Several popular methods for gluing the specified framing on the chipboard are described below in this article.

How to mount the edge of PVC self-adhesive

The edge based on polyvinyl chloride is sold in two versions. In the first embodiment, the glue layer is applied to its lower part in the factory. In another embodiment, the edge is sold without it, and the glue has to be applied on their own.

If the material has an adhesive layer, it should be warm up first. After heat treatment, the glue will become sticky and the edge will easily stick into its place. This is done with the iron to be switched to Synthetic mode.

The edge attacked the end to which it must be glued. At the same time, the edge completely overlaps the end of the workpiece. Then carefully, with the help of iron heated the edge. But it should not be done directly. It is better to stroke the product through the layer of the newspaper.

Print such material easily. As heated, the glue dissolves and as soon as this happens, the iron moves on. The edge itself is well pressed against the workpiece and smoothed. So act until the edge is glued to the part along the entire length.

Installing the edge with a construction dryer

By the way, it is possible to glue the edge without an iron. Sometimes it is more convenient to use the construction hairdryer. For this, the edge must be heathed from the reverse side, where there is a layer of glue. When the glue becomes sticky, the edge is applied to its place, pressed and smoothed.

How to glue the PVC edge to "moment"

If the product does not have an adhesive layer, you need to take a "moment" and apply it yourself. But before applying glue, you should check the end of the workpiece on quality. There should be no garbage, dust and sawdust. The end must be clean and durable.

The glue is applied immediately on both surfaces. That is, on the edge of PVC and on the end of the workpiece. It should not be in a hurry. It is necessary to wait until the glue starts to be captured and only after that the edge can be highly pasted into its place.

While gluing the framing, it is strongly pressed against the workpiece and smoothed. It will not hurt to roll the edge with a hard roller.

How to remove the extra part of the edge

If the edge glued well the first time, you can proceed to the final stage. If not, the procedure is repeated. You need to apply more glue to the problem area and press it hard or roller.

How to remove unnecessary? The fact is that the framing is usually wider than the workpiece itself, therefore it is necessary to remove excessive width. Make it using an ordinary file by neat climbing.

The file is taken by two hands and a plane of pressure on the protruding edge. At the same time, it is clogged and becomes closed with a blank. Like the framing follows the workpiece, and not from it - so less risk that the edge will be corrupted. However, if the PVC edge was qualitatively glued, it ourselves is ideal and this part of the work never causes special complications.

Final grinding material

To complete the work on gluing the edge of PVC, you need to take small emery paper and stabbing flaws, if any. Everything! The framing is glued and ready to use.