Proper ventilation: how to make a hood in a private house with your own hands. How to make a hood in a private house: technical requirements and an overview of installation rules How to make a kitchen hood by hand

A large country house is the dream of many families. But in order for the building to be comfortable for living, it is necessary to provide for the presence of all necessary communications in it at the design stage. One of them is ventilation.

An established air exchange system in the house will provide:

• supply of oxygen to the premises;
• protecting rooms from dampness, mold and mildew;
• comfortable living conditions and optimal sanitary conditions for human life.

Which rooms need ventilation?

For normal life, a person needs pure oxygen. Therefore, its supply should be ensured in living rooms, such as the bedroom, living room, and children's room. Service areas in the house (bathroom, etc.) also need constant circulation. Here there is often high humidity and accumulation of odors that need to be removed outside. Ventilation of these premises will reduce the formation of dust, dirt, excessive stuffiness, condensation, the spread of harmful microorganisms, and mold.

Ventilation system, methods of organization

There are two main types of air exchange arrangement in residential buildings:

• natural (natural);
• mechanical (forced).

Features of the arrangement and principle of operation of natural ventilation of a private house

Natural air exchange in residential buildings is carried out based on the difference in pressure inside and outside the house, as well as the effect of wind on the building. How it works?

The temperature inside the house is higher than outside, so the oxygen there has a lighter structure. Thanks to this, he climbs the shafts and goes out into the street. A vacuum arises in the room, which draws fresh air from the street through the openings in the building envelope. The incoming masses have a heavy structure, so they are located at the bottom of the premises. Under their influence, light warm air is forced out of the rooms.

The wind accelerates the circulation of air masses. As the difference in temperature inside and outside the cottage and wind speed increases, the supply of freshness to the house increases. Previously, the places where it entered were leaks in windows, doors, and porous walls. But modern insulation systems, as well as plastic windows, are designed so that there are no gaps in them for air supply. In this case, the inflow is carried out through special valves mounted in the windows or walls of the building.

Waste oxygen enters the openings of the vertical ventilation ducts of the house, located in the kitchen and bathroom, and is discharged outside through them. Replenishment of fresh water occurs through ventilation (opening windows, doors, transoms).

Advantages and disadvantages of the system

Natural air exchange in the house has the following advantages:

• efficiency. The movement of air flows is carried out without the use of additional equipment;
• no accidents. The ventilation design is extremely simple, does not depend on the power supply, and does not require regular maintenance;
• quiet operation;
• Possibility of combination with filtration and air conditioning systems.

The main disadvantage of natural ventilation is poor air exchange, which leads to the formation of condensation, the accumulation of unpleasant odors, and the occurrence of mold and mildew. This threatens not only the gradual destruction of the house, but also the health of the people living in it.

The natural ventilation system does not allow you to regulate the volume of air removed and supplied to the premises. The recycled stream either does not have time to be discharged outside, or is removed too quickly, causing heat loss in the house. In the summer, when the temperature inside and outside the house is almost the same, the draft disappears and the air movement in the system stops. Therefore, natural circulation is practically not used in modern house construction. It is used in combination with a mechanical system.

Forced ventilation - features, types

This is an artificially organized system, the movement of oxygen in which is carried out through the use of injection devices (fans, pumps, compressors). It is used in private buildings where natural ventilation is not provided or does not work. Advantages of mechanical organization:

• works autonomously, regardless of weather conditions (pressure, temperature, wind);
• allows you to prepare the air supplied to the premises to a comfortable state (heat/cool, humidify/dry, purify).

Disadvantages of the forced scheme for mansions:

• significant costs for setting up the system, purchasing equipment, paying for electricity;
• the need for regular maintenance.

Mechanical air exchange in a private house can be arranged in several ways. There are different types of ventilation:

• supply - provides forced supply from the outside;
• exhaust - removes the processed flow from the premises mechanically;
• supply and exhaust - inflow and supply in the house are organized artificially.

Supply ventilation in a private house

This system is designed to replace exhaust air in the house with fresh air. It consists of:

• air intake;
• heating and cooling devices;
• cleaning filters;
• devices supplying air to rooms;
• sound-absorbing devices.

Through the air valve, clean air enters the system, is subject to certain processing, filtered, and, using a fan, is distributed throughout the rooms in the house. Getting into the rooms, it displaces the waste stream. The supplied air can be additionally cooled or heated.

Supply ventilation systems are:

• duct - air circulation is carried out through pipes;
• channelless - the flow is supplied to the room through holes in the walls and windows.

According to the device method, they are distinguished:

• stacked ventilation systems consisting of separate units connected by one air duct;
• monoblock - all devices are collected in one compact housing.

Supply installation schemes have the following advantages:

• the ability to regulate the temperature and volume of oxygen supplied;
• compact dimensions;
• functionality (they have additional devices for cleaning, heating, cooling the supplied air);
• ease of installation and maintenance.

The disadvantages of this type of ventilation can be identified:

• noisiness. During operation, the system units produce sounds, so it is necessary to provide a noise suppressor and install the equipment away from the living rooms in the house;
• the need for space to install all its elements (this will be required when installing a typesetting system);
• need for regular maintenance.

Exhaust ventilation in a private house

When installing this system, clean air enters the rooms through windows, doors, and special valves, and exhaust air is removed using exhaust fans. These devices are installed in the most problematic areas of the house (kitchen, bathroom); they come in wall and duct types.

Pros of this installation:

• control of the volume of exhaust air;
• independence from environmental conditions;
• ease of installation.

Among the disadvantages of the system:

• inability to control the amount of air supplied to the house;
• costs for the purchase of equipment, electricity;
• the need for regular maintenance.

Ventilation using supply and exhaust units

How to make ventilation in a private house with metal-plastic windows, finished with modern thermal insulation materials? To do this, you need a high-quality system that allows you to supply fresh air and remove exhaust air automatically. Air handling units will solve this problem.

They provide for the organization of two parallel flows:

• for exhaust air removal;
• for serving fresh.

These installations allow you to regulate the volume of output and supply flows, allowing you to maintain an optimal level of humidity in the premises of the house. Main elements of the supply and exhaust system:

• air ducts - intended for supplying and removing air masses. They form two parallel lines, consisting of pipes and fittings (tees, rotating elements). Air ducts differ in shape (round, rectangular), cross-sectional area, rigidity (made of aluminum foil, galvanized sheet, plastic);
• fan - provides the pressure in the ventilation system necessary for supplying and removing air. It can be installed on the roof of the building, directly in the air duct, or on a special support;
• air intake grille - through them, air from the street enters the supply channel. Also, these elements protect the system from foreign objects, rodents, birds, and precipitation;
• air valve - prevents air from entering the system when it is off. It can operate on an electric drive, in automatic mode, and can also be equipped with electric heating that prevents freezing of the sashes;
• filters - protect ventilated rooms and the system itself from insects, dust, and other small particles. They require regular cleaning (recommended once a month);
• heater - heats the air supplied to the premises during the cold season. This device can be water (suitable for large cottages) and electric (used in small houses);
• noise mufflers - prevent sounds from operating devices from spreading through the pipe system. They are tubular, plate, chamber, cellular. Once air enters them, it passes through special barriers (perforated channels, tubes or plates), as a result of which its intensity decreases. Installing a silencer is not always necessary. Sometimes, to reduce the intensity of sounds in the system, it is enough to reduce the speed of the installation and ensure sound insulation of the fans;
• air intakes and distributors. The first serve to enter the flow into the system, the second - to distribute it evenly throughout the room. These elements are presented in the form of grilles and diffusers of round and rectangular shapes. They are mounted on the walls or ceiling of the room;
• control system. It can be mechanical (represented by a switch) or automatic (operation is regulated by a remote control). Its main elements are thermo- and hydrostats, pressure gauges;
• security system - represented by a set of additional devices that protect ventilation elements from overheating and power surges.

An improved model of supply and exhaust ventilation is a recovery type system. It ensures efficient circulation in the house without loss of heat. This ventilation system is equipped with a recuperator, which allows reducing the cost of heating air coming from the street. The influent masses are heated by the heat of recycled streams removed from the house. This is the most effective and energy-efficient way to organize air exchange in residential buildings, although it is the most expensive.

Gas ventilation in a private house

The presence of gas appliances in the house places increased demands on the arrangement of circulation in the premises. Impaired traction can cause poisoning from combustion products.

Oxygen is required for normal operation of gas installations. If there is not enough of it, the air in the room is discharged. As a result, reverse draft occurs, and instead of the chimney, combustion products enter the surrounding space. They can cause malaise, severe headaches, loss of consciousness in a person, and even complete respiratory arrest.

Requirements for ventilation of a gas boiler room

Air exchange in a room with a heating device running on natural gas must be organized in accordance with the following technical requirements:

• there are no more than two gas units per chimney;
• combustion products must enter the chimney from different levels (from a distance of more than 50 cm). With a single-level supply, a cut of the same height is installed in the channel;
• To prevent soot and carbon monoxide from leaking into the house, the boiler ventilation system should be sealed. Processing of joints and seams is carried out with material resistant to high temperatures;
• all elements of the exchange system must be thermally insulated to prevent fire.

Ventilation of the boiler room is constructed on the basis of the following calculation: air outflow = air exchange x 3.

Air supply = outflow + volume of oxygen required for the combustion process.

Methods for ventilating a gas boiler room

Air exchange in the room where gas equipment is located can be organized using:

• natural and mechanical ventilation based on draft. Natural circulation is the result of a pressure difference inside the house and outside. During mechanical ventilation, draft is generated by a fan;
• supply, exhaust, or combined ventilation systems, organized according to their intended purpose. Air forced into the room puts pressure on the exhaust flow, pushing it out. Also, oxygen can be supplied to the boiler room naturally and removed mechanically. A combined (supply and exhaust) system will allow you to organize the ventilation of the room automatically, which works effectively in any weather, since the supply and exhaust are carried out mechanically;
• channelless or channel (depending on the design of the cottage). In the first case, the boiler room is connected through holes to another room, from where the waste stream is discharged into the air duct. In the second case, a complex system of pipes is laid to ensure exchange in all rooms of the house.

Advice: to improve the natural ventilation of a gas boiler room, it is better to additionally install an exhaust fan, which will ensure the movement of air masses in the absence of draft.

Closed-type heating devices operating on natural gas are equipped with a coaxial (double) ventilation duct. Through its inner pipe, combustion products are removed, and through the outer pipe, fresh air is supplied to the burner.

If a gas boiler with an open combustion chamber is installed in the house, you should:

• install a pipe to remove carbon monoxide to the street;
• arrange a general air exchange system in the room;
• arrange the supply of oxygen to the boiler.

Note: oxygen can enter the room from the street through cracks and gaps in windows and doors. If the room is sealed hermetically, you will need to organize a forced air supply.

Proper ventilation in a private home

Organizing oxygen exchange will ensure a favorable microclimate in the house, the health of its inhabitants and the safety of the structure itself. How to arrange it correctly?

Norms and rules for home ventilation

To create optimal conditions for human life in the residential and office premises of a cottage, it is necessary that 60 m 3 of oxygen (minimum 20 m 3) enter each of them in 1 hour. Comfortable air humidity is 50%, and its exchange rate is 0.5 m/s.

This can be achieved through proper system design. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the air exchange rate for rooms for different purposes. For a bathroom this figure is 50 m3, a common bathroom - 25 m3, a kitchen - 90 m3. Not only office rooms, but also living rooms and utility rooms should be ventilated. To form a calculated hood, it is necessary to sum up the air exchange rates of each compartment of the house. In this case, it is desirable that actual ventilation exceeds the minimum standards.

Designing an air exchange system in a house

Development of a home ventilation project includes:

• selection of equipment;
• drawing up a communications wiring diagram taking into account architectural, construction, sanitary, and economic criteria.

The purpose of this work is to develop a system that will cope with the supply and exhaust of air, within the estimated volume calculated for the house. The design must not only ensure uninterrupted ventilation of the premises, but also free access to all structural elements (assemblies, chambers). This is necessary for quick troubleshooting and regular maintenance.

For circulation to work well, it is important to carefully select all equipment. It should last as long as possible. The devices used should not spoil the architecture of the house, so it is better to install them in a hidden way.

When designing cottage ventilation, it is important that the system complies with sanitary and epidemiological standards. It must not only cope with the supply/removal of air masses, but also operate as silently as possible. Don't forget about the efficiency of the system. But the desire to reduce installation costs should not affect the quality of the installation. The main design task is to develop the optimal ventilation option for the house, taking into account all the above criteria.

The preparation of a project by a contractor begins with the formation of technical specifications. It contains all the criteria by which the ventilation system should be laid, as well as the customer’s wishes.

Calculation of ventilation in a private house

The operation of the system depends on whether the volume of air supplied and exhausted corresponds to the conditions of the house. This can be calculated using special formulas. The basis is the house plan, which indicates the purpose and area of ​​each room.

First, the air exchange rate is calculated - an indicator that determines how many times in 1 hour the air in the room is completely changed. For most residential premises it can be single, for kitchens, bathrooms, boiler rooms - 2-3 times. It is also necessary to take into account the people living in the house.

The air exchange rate is calculated using the formula: L(air supply unit capacity, m3/h) = n(multiplicity rate for a specific room) *V(room volume).

Calculation of air exchange, taking into account the number of people living in the house, is carried out according to the formula: L = N(number of residents) * L(air intended for one person is the norm). When performing physical activity, one individual needs air renewal - 30 m 3 / h, in a calm state - 20 m 3 / h.

Please note: having calculated the air exchange rate by the frequency and the number of residents, they are guided by the larger of these values.

Equipment selection

Criteria by which the main system settings are selected:

• power, performance;
• operating pressure;
• noise level emitted.

The speed of movement along the highways directly depends on their cross-section, as well as the power of the fan. But you should also take into account that the air ducts provide a certain resistance, which reduces the performance of the air handling unit.

Note: the productivity of the cottage ventilation system should be in the range of 1000-3000 m 3 /h.

At the stage of developing a feasibility study, the type, quantity and power of system elements are determined, its preliminary cost is compiled, and optimization adjustments are made. After this, a working design is drawn up, based on high-precision calculations of air exchange and heat release of a particular house. The devices and air distributors in it are selected according to.

Ventilation diagram for a private house

The air distribution network consists of pipes, fittings (rotating elements, splitters, adapters), distribution devices (diffusers, grilles). Based on this, you can determine:

• fan operating pressure - it depends on the technical parameters of the unit, the type and diameter of the air ducts, the number of rotating and connecting elements, and the air distributors used. The longer the line and the more different connectors, turns, and adapters there are on it, the greater the pressure the fan should create;
• the speed of movement of air masses depends on the diameter of the highways. For residential buildings this is 2.5-4 m/s;
• noise level - depends on the cross-section of the highways and the speed of air movement along them. Quiet operation of the ventilation system will be ensured by large diameter pipes. If it is not possible to install them, use lines with a cross-section of 160-250 mm, equipped with distribution grids 20x20, or 20x30 cm.

According to the interstate standard (GOST 21.602-2003), the diagram must show all elements of the ventilation system. They are designated by certain symbols and signed.

To make it comfortable and safe for a person, it is necessary to organize its ventilation. This will not only provide a favorable microclimate, but will also extend the operational life of the structure itself. There are several types of indoor air exchange arrangements. The choice of a specific system depends on the area, design features of the house, the number of people living in it, and the budget. For it to work effectively, it is better to entrust its planning and installation to professionals with experience in this field.

Air exchange plays an important role in ensuring people’s livelihoods, therefore, even at the stage of designing a house, you need to carefully consider how to make hoods in a private house.

A properly installed ventilation system with your own hands will ensure the timely removal of harmful fumes from the interior, cellar and sewerage system.

For fire safety purposes, a hood in a private house must be installed in the boiler room, above the gas stove, as well as in the room and premises where there are fireplaces and speakers.

Installation of boiler hoods and other gas equipment is simple; if you wish, you can do all the work yourself.

For ventilation to work properly, it is necessary to install hoods in the following rooms of a private house: kitchen, boiler room, bathroom, toilet above the stove, basement.

In addition, you need to make a sewer hood.

What types of hoods are there in a private home:

• Air exchange system with natural impulse;
• Forced air exchange system.

The natural air exchange system of a private house operates due to the draft that occurs between the supply and exhaust openings.

Supply flows enter the house through leaks in building structures, slightly open vents, and supply valves. To remove exhaust air, it is necessary to install an exhaust pipe.

The air duct is installed on the roof of a private house, and its upper end must rise above the level of the ridge by at least 70 cm.

Scheme of a properly made hood for a private house with your own hands:

• Air enters the house through living rooms (bedrooms, dining rooms, living rooms);
• Air flows are removed through the kitchen, bathroom, and also through the boiler room. In addition, hoods should be in the basement and toilet.

For sewerage and cellars in a private house, you need to make an autonomous hood.

You can easily make a natural one in a private home with your own hands. For this purpose, air ducts made of plastic or metal are used.

The air duct needs to be made under the ceiling or embedded into the wall (as high as possible). In the kitchen, bathroom and toilet, separate air exhaust openings are installed, which are connected to the general system.

In this case, you cannot make horizontally located air ducts, as this will stop the draft.

With forced air exchange, the flows are driven by electric fans. Compared to natural traction, forced traction has many advantages.

Such a system does not depend on weather conditions and time of year. Instead of fans, you can make a monoblock or stacked installation.

Monoblocks are easy to install, feature quiet operation, modest dimensions and relatively low productivity.

Therefore, they are more suitable for small cottages, while in a large private house it is better to have stacked ventilation.

Air exchange in a room with heating equipment

For high-quality combustion of gas, oxygen is required. If there is a shortage of it, the efficiency of the boiler, water heater and other gas equipment decreases.

Thermal energy released is disproportionately less than fuel consumed. In the boiler room and kitchen, carbon monoxide and under-oxidized substances accumulate, which negatively affect human health.

Whereas properly done ventilation in a private house will ensure timely removal of gas in the event of a leak.

Requirements for exhaust hoods in rooms with gas heating equipment in a private home:

• The closed combustion chamber of a gas boiler must be equipped with a coaxial channel through which air is supplied to the burner and combustion products are removed;
• When installing a boiler with an open combustion chamber, a separate ventilation pipe is required. This is especially true for a private house with a boiler room located in a separate room. In addition, you should ensure a stable flow of air that will ventilate the room (a slightly open window or supply valve);
• One chimney pipe is designed for a maximum of 2 pieces of equipment (for example, the chimney can be made close to the boiler and water heater);
• A do-it-yourself ventilation exhaust system for a gas boiler or water heater must be absolutely sealed. Even the smallest crack threatens to leak carbon monoxide, which poses a danger to the lives of residents;
• The seams in the places where the chimneys are connected must be treated with a sealant with increased heat resistance;
• To prevent fire, all exhaust pipes of a boiler, gas stove or water heater must be treated with thermal insulation materials. Where the pipe exits to the roof of a private house, special fire-resistant gaskets are installed;
• The air flow exhaust system, located in the kitchen above the gas stove or in the boiler room, should provide an outflow of 1 to 3 total volumes of air. The same air exchange standards are valid for the rooms in which the speakers are located.

To vent a gas boiler or water heater, you need a chimney fan with a check valve (for forced ventilation), a ventilation grille, and a metal or asbestos exhaust pipe.

Under no circumstances should you make a chimney out of plastic due to the low heat resistance of the material.

From the video below you can learn how to do ventilation in a private house with your own hands.

A device with a check valve will prevent carbon monoxide and soot from returning back into the room.

How to make a hood with your own hands in the boiler room of a private house:

• Mark a place for the hood in the boiler room (preferably not far from the gas boiler or water heater);
• Drill a hole into the wall of the boiler room; you can use a hammer drill for this;
• Wrap the channel with fireproof insulating material and insert into the hole;
• Install a fan in the chimney and connect power to it (for a forced exhaust system).

The exhaust system for the boiler room is complete.

Air exchange in the kitchen and bathroom

In order to promptly remove carbon dioxide, soot, steam and fat released during the cooking process, you need to install an exhaust hood in the kitchen above the stove.

The width of kitchen hoods varies from 50 to 120 cm. When doing ventilation, remember that the kitchen hood should be 10-15 cm wider than the stove.

The performance of the device depends on the size of the room: according to sanitary standards, the air in the kitchen must be completely changed at least once.

How to make a kitchen hood over the stove with your own hands:

• To operate the exhaust hood, a separate outlet is required; it must be located nearby;
• Mark the mounting locations, drill holes for screws or dowels;
• Attach the hood to the wall. The device should be located above the stove at a distance of 0.7 cm-1 m;
• Connect the flexible air duct in the kitchen to the ventilation shaft (through the wall or ceiling);
• Connect the device to the network, then test its operation.

It should be borne in mind that when installing a hood for a gas water heater in a private house, you can connect the ventilation duct to the chimney of a fireplace or boiler.

If this is not possible, then installation of a separate pipe with a diameter of at least 12 cm will be required.

A bathroom is a specific room with constantly high humidity.

In the absence of properly organized ventilation, fungus forms on the walls, and as a result, plumbing and finishing materials begin to deteriorate.

According to the method of organization, air exchange in the bathroom and toilet is divided into natural and forced.

When installing natural exhaust in the bathroom and toilet, the ventilation duct is connected to the main pipe.

If it is located too far (on the opposite side of a private house), then it is recommended to make an autonomous air duct.

Forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is arranged by installing exhaust fans.

Only exhaust devices designed to operate in conditions of high humidity are suitable.

Installing a fan in the bathroom and toilet of a private house:

• To install a hood in a bathroom or toilet, you need to drill the wall and make a through hole along the diameter of the fan coupling;
• Before installing the fan in the bathroom and toilet, supply power and make an outlet in advance. It’s good to do this in advance, before laying the tiles;
• Insert the coupling into the hole;
• Drill holes in the bathroom wall for mounting;
• Remove the front panel from the bathroom fan;
• Connect the cable;
• Secure the device to the wall using dowels or self-tapping screws;
• Replace the front panel and install the ventilation grille on the outside.

Air exchange of the basement and sewerage

When building a private house, attention should be paid to the ventilation of the cellar.

In a basement located at a shallow depth, it is enough to make vents around the entire perimeter of the basement part of the foundation.

To prevent rodents from entering the cellar through them, cover the openings with fine-mesh gratings.

If the height of the walls in the basement is over 2 meters, you need to make a full-fledged exhaust system.

To arrange natural air exchange in the cellar of a private cottage, the following scheme is used:

• Two air ducts cut into the ceiling of the cellar (supply and exhaust);
• The cellar air ducts lead to the roof of the house;
• The supply air duct in the basement also goes to the roof, but its lower part must be lowered to a distance of approximately 50 cm above the floor level in the corner opposite from the exhaust vent. This placement of the channels will ensure normal draft (air will enter the lower part of the cellar, pass through the entire cellar room and be removed through the upper hole);
• If you install an exhaust duct in the basement near the chimney pipe, the draft will increase significantly;
• To prevent condensation from collecting, all sections of the pipeline located in the attic and above the roof must be wrapped with insulating material.

A more reliable option for private cottages is forced ventilation in the basement. In this case, installation of high channels is not necessary.

Air exchange in the basement will occur due to electric fans installed in the air ducts.

In addition, the cellar channels can be connected to general home forced ventilation. This system is especially convenient if there is a gym in the basement.

When installing an autonomous sewer system, you should protect yourself from the penetration of unpleasant odors into the house.

Keep in mind that the hood will only be effective if all parts of the sewer are completely sealed. Sewage exhaust can be organized using a drain pipe.

To implement this ventilation option, use pipes that are the same as the rest of the sewer system.

Make sure that its end is located as far as possible from the windows.

Otherwise, unpleasant sewer odors will penetrate the house.

Like any equipment in the kitchen, a hood is not just a device with a certain set of functions, but also an interior item, and its participation in creating the overall composition is very noticeable. Nowadays, when exclusive furnishings are especially valued in houses and apartments, special requirements are placed on this most important element. This is the dilemma that creatively inclined homeowners who need a kitchen hood find themselves in: making such a truly beautiful device with your own hands is not very easy, and ordering it from a workshop is quite expensive. We offer a compromise option: through simple manipulations, turn an inexpensive hood with a template appearance into an original product with a unique country-style design. All we need is a good imagination, a modest list of materials and a little patience.

Choosing a base

The hood that is lucky enough to get a new look through your efforts should have a simple design (this will have a positive effect on its price), but be practical and quite productive. It is not recommended to take the cheapest models, since they are short-lived, produce too much noise and have a low-power fan drive. We will consider a device costing 4,500 – 5,000 rubles to be optimal. For this money you can easily find a high-quality domestic white dome hood with a grease filter and a three-speed fan with a capacity of 600 - 700 cubic meters. m/h. An example is the White Storm 60 model from Elicor.

DIY kitchen hood

An ordinary kitchen hood, even with a minimum width of 600 mm, has a quite noticeable weight - from 7 to 10 kg. Therefore, when designing it, it is better not to use any heavy parts - it will simply be impossible to securely secure an excessively bulky structure. The technology outlined here involves the use of the following materials and tools:

• 15 mm fiberboard - about 2 or 3 square meters. m;
• wooden glazing beads with a section of 20x20 mm - 6 m;
• wooden figured plinth for parquet (it is better to choose one that is not factory painted or varnished) – 4 m;
• wide and smooth door frames (also in the form of unpainted wooden blanks) - 4 m;
• hardboard of small thickness - about 2 square meters. m;
• electric jigsaw;
• corner;
• level;
• heat-resistant glue for wooden products;
• heat-resistant varnish (must withstand temperatures up to 180 degrees) for wooden products;
• its corresponding solvent;
• stain (if this is not available, potassium permanganate can be used as an alternative);
• primer with a disinfecting effect;
• moisture-resistant primer (also called waterproofing);
• heat-resistant wood paint to match the interior;
• one or two brushes;
• a clean piece of cloth for sanding the varnish coating.

Instructions. How to make a hood in the kitchen?

1. Making a base from fiberboard.

The fiberboard sheet should be cut in such a way that there is a protrusion 100 mm long in the front part. The width of the base is determined by the installation location. The most convenient way to cut fiberboard is to use a jigsaw or a small circular saw. If there is no suitable tool, the base can be assembled from several parts.

Before starting work on the manufacture of the pedestal base, the hood should be placed on the table.

This should be done carefully: as a rule, the control panel is located at the bottom; if the hood is handled carelessly, it can be damaged.

The height of the hollow rectangular base will be 100 mm, this is approximately a quarter of the height of the dome of a standard-sized hood. When installing a homemade hood, you must ensure that its base is adjacent to the dome at all points. The assembled structure must be secured with several nails, and then checked for correct assembly using an angle and a level. If everything is done correctly, we carry out the final fixation of the elements of the pedestal base.

2. Manufacturing of decorative parts.

At the next stage of making a kitchen hood with your own hands, you will need to build a border from the baseboard that frames the base at the top and bottom. To do this, the plinth pieces must be placed at the bottom of the base on all sides except the one that will be adjacent to the wall. Having determined the required length of the plinth on each side, it is cut with a regular saw at an angle of 45 degrees. The cut must be neat and even so that adjacent pieces of plinth fit snugly against each other. The upper edge of our homemade hood should be a mirror image of the lower one - here we use the baseboard upside down, with the sole up.

Wooden skirting boards and trim made from raw wood often go on sale. Before using such materials to decorate the hood, they should be dried, otherwise, with further drying, the entire structure will be deformed. In industrial enterprises, special drying chambers are used for this purpose; in domestic conditions, the workpieces can be hung over a stove with lit burners. You can start making parts only after the wood has dried well enough.

3. Coating of wooden parts with varnish.

Dried wooden parts should be coated with an antiseptic primer. This technique will prevent the development of fungus or mold on the wood, as well as its rotting. After the primer has dried, stain is applied to it.

Now you need to prepare and apply an impregnation that will ensure sufficient adhesion when applying the varnish coating. The composition of the impregnation includes only two components - varnish and solvent, taken in proportions 1:4. The impregnation is applied over the dried layer of stain, after which it is also allowed to dry. If you varnish parts without first applying impregnation, the coating will soon begin to peel off and peel off.

The varnish should be applied in five layers. Before applying each subsequent layer, the previous one must be thoroughly dried and polished with a clean cloth. To speed up the drying process of the varnish, you can use special products.

4. Assembling the decorative shell of the dome.

It is necessary to attach door frames to the upper border of the base, made of plinth, in the same way as is done when decorating a doorway. The boards must be placed with a 45-degree slope to the outside. If necessary, the platbands should be trimmed using a plane, thus ensuring an even fit. The top and bottom ends must be parallel. The exact length of each part is determined locally.

Our homemade hood will have a decorative dome rising above the wooden base. To manufacture it, it is necessary to make eight profiles from fiberboard; they will be located in pairs on each side. The ends of these parts will play the role of a frame on which it will be necessary to fix the walls of the dome, made of hardboard. All dome elements should be connected using glue.

Fibreboard profiles are installed vertically. To connect them, you should use round wooden slats, similar to how crossbars are installed in a wall bars. It is most convenient to prepare holes for slats in profiles using a Frostner drill.

After this, the same ones, but located horizontally, must be attached to the platbands installed with a slope. They will hide the bottom edge of the fiberboard profiles. One edge of the horizontal platbands will rest on inclined ones, and the other - on wooden glazing beads pre-laid along the entire perimeter.

After installing the frame, it must be sheathed with hardboard using glue for this purpose. When constructing decor for a kitchen hood with your own hands, all operations should be performed as carefully as possible; inaccuracies and all kinds of flaws will immediately be evident. All connections located in a visible place should be made with glue; nails can only be used in areas hidden from view.

All cracks and gaps must be sealed with putty or a similar compound. At the final stage, the decorative dome must be painted.

5. Installation of the hood.

When all the decorative details are assembled into a single structure, the device can be mounted above the stove. Installing a kitchen hood with your own hands is not at all difficult; just follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. There is no need to strengthen the fastening, since our “superstructure” has a purely symbolic weight.

After installing and fixing the hood, a dome made of fiberboard mounted on the base is placed on it. The resulting shelf can be decorated with carved railings.

Is it possible to make a hood from scratch?

If there is good ventilation, it is not necessary to use a forced draft hood. In this case, you can save money by making a completely homemade dome, from under which air will be removed due to natural draft. You will need the following materials:

• metal profiles used in the installation of plasterboard structures;
• plasterboard sheets;
• perforated corner made of galvanized steel;
• corrugated pipe;
• dowels

First, the frame of the dome and air duct is assembled, inside which a corrugated pipe is laid. Then everything is covered with plasterboard.

Conclusion

Knowing how to make a kitchen hood with your own hands, the owner of the house can easily give the atmosphere in this room an inimitable look. Being quite effective, this home design technique does not require significant financial costs that would have to be incurred when ordering an expensive exclusive hood. The reward for your efforts will be not only clean air in the kitchen, but also the admiring glances of your guests.

Everyone knows that good ventilation in the kitchen is an integral element of a healthy microclimate in an apartment or private house. To assist the traditional natural ventilation system duct located under the ceiling, today it is customary to install a kitchen hood above the stove and/or a kitchen exhaust fan duct opening. However, not everyone understands that ill-designed forced exhaust can not only fail to give the desired effect, but also significantly worsen the functioning of the natural ventilation system. Let's look at how to make a hood in the kitchen of an apartment or house effective and safe.

During the cooking process, various harmful substances are released into the air. They can be divided into two groups: deadly and simply very harmful.

Comfortable ventilation in the apartment in general and in the kitchen in particular is the key to cleanliness and well-being

Dangerous "kitchen" pollution

• Carbon monoxide (carbon monoxide, CO) is a toxic substance that in high concentrations leads first to poisoning and then to death. Owners of electric stoves have nothing to worry about; such equipment is not a source of CO2.

Carbon monoxide is produced when natural gas or biogas is burned or cooked in a traditional wood stove. Carbon monoxide is especially dangerous because it has no odor, a person may not feel its presence and accumulation in the room. Carbon monoxide is not absorbed by carbon filters, and the hood turned on in air filtration mode is useless in the fight against CO.

Carbon monoxide poisoning is very dangerous. More people die from it in their homes than from fires, tsunamis, floods and earthquakes combined

• Every time you turn on a gas burner or water heater, a small amount of unburned natural gas enters the room. A normally functioning natural ventilation system is designed for a similar level of gas emissions and copes with it quite well.

It’s a different matter if there is a leak from gas equipment or pipelines. Household gas itself has no odor, but a “smelly” fragrance is added to it - ethyl mercaptan. If you smell gas, you should immediately open the windows and call emergency services.

The installation of gas leakage and CO detectors will help to significantly increase the safety of people when using gas equipment. In case of danger, the sensors can emit a piercing signal or control a servo drive, which automatically turns off the gas supply from the main and notifies the emergency service about the problem.

The gas leak sensor is capable of promptly detecting a dangerous concentration of natural gas, propane or butane in the air and signaling it

Harmful contaminants in the kitchen

• Kitchen fumes released when frying foods. It consists of volatile particles suspended in the air, mainly oils and fats. After strong heating in a frying pan, harmless food substances acquire properties harmful to humans, even carcinogenic. At best, dirt and grime settle on walls, furniture and dishes, at worst - in our lungs.

• Cooking also produces water vapor. It is, of course, practically harmless compared to other types of pollution. But there is no benefit from evaporation; excess moisture does not improve the microclimate in the room.

The fumes generated during cooking are not beneficial to the body.

From the above we can conclude that effective, constantly functioning kitchen ventilation is extremely important. If for owners of electric stoves this is a matter of hygiene and cleanliness in the room, then for those who use a gas stove (stove, wood-burning oven) indoors for cooking, this is a matter of safety.

Owners of gas stoves should pay close attention to the performance of the ventilation system and periodically check the presence of draft in the ventilation duct. If in the kitchen, in addition to the stove, a gas water heater or heating boiler is installed, the normal functioning of natural exhaust ventilation becomes even more important.

Kitchen ventilation systems: natural or forced

Many consumers are wondering: which kitchen hood is better, natural or forced? We answer: both are better. Natural and forced exhaust, although they serve a common purpose, do not replace one another. A natural ventilation system is mandatory for a kitchen in an apartment or private house. Let us repeat, the presence and functionality of a natural ventilation system is of particular importance for rooms with gas appliances.

Forced exhaust ventilation for the kitchen is a good thing, even very good. But optional. It can be argued that natural ventilation provides greater safety, while forced ventilation provides comfort.

Ventilation in the kitchen with a hood is an element of the overall ventilation system in an apartment or house

Let's take a closer look at the capabilities of different types of ventilation, their design, advantages and disadvantages.

Natural ventilation in the kitchen

The natural ventilation system is well known to all apartment owners through the channels in the kitchen and bathroom walls leading to the roof of the house. Harmful gases and polluted air are removed through the ventilation duct, fresh air enters through cracks in the windows or special ventilation valves in the walls or window frames. Warm air heated on the stove, due to its lower density, naturally tends to evaporate from the room upward, to the street, where the temperature is lower.

Natural ventilation in a private house in the kitchen, bathroom, and furnace removes polluted air through vertical channels to the roof. Fresh comes from the street through windows or valves in the walls

Properly designed ventilation with natural draft removes a relatively small volume of air per unit of time, but does so constantly. The ventilation duct located under the ceiling can cope with even a small leak of natural gas, which is lighter than air and rises to the ceiling.

Carbon monoxide, which is formed in relatively small quantities from the working burners of a gas stove, is also quite successfully removed by natural ventilation. Natural ventilation is somewhat less effective at removing kitchen odors and excess moisture during moderate-intensity cooking.

It is necessary to periodically, at least once a month, check for sufficient draft in the ventilation duct. You can check this without special instruments: if a sheet of paper “sticks” to the hole, there is traction.

What is good and what is bad in such a system:

Advantages of a natural ventilation system

• Ventilation with natural draft functions constantly with rare exceptions (see below, in the “cons”).

• Provides general ventilation of the home in combination with ventilation ducts in the bathrooms.

• Copes with the main types of hazardous contaminants released during cooking. Provides safety in the event of a small gas leak. Natural ventilation adequately removes kitchen odors and excess moisture during moderate-intensity cooking.

• Natural ventilation is “free”. In an apartment or private house built in accordance with building codes, it is available by default. There is no equipment that requires repair. No electricity required.

• Quiet operation.

Disadvantages of natural ventilation

• In hot weather and in the off-season, when the outside air suddenly warms up after prolonged cold weather, the efficiency of the natural ventilation system drops sharply. Under unfavorable circumstances, a reverse movement of air may occur: it will begin to flow through the channel from the street into the room. For a kitchen with a gas stove installed, this can be very dangerous, especially if there is a gas water heater. In hot weather and during a sudden thaw, it is recommended to ventilate the room through open windows.

• Natural ventilation removes a relatively small volume of air per unit time. If the owners decide to fry a frying pan full of cracklings, the ventilation system will not cope and the persistent kitchen “aroma” will instantly spread throughout all the rooms.

• Ventilation works normally only if there is a sufficient volume of air flow from outside. Modern plastic windows, adjusted “for winter,” are practically airtight when fully closed. To ensure the outflow of air into the channel, you should open the windows slightly during cooking, at least in micro ventilation mode.

• The ventilation duct may be clogged with snow and debris. Selfish and technically illiterate neighbors above can block the ventilation of the lower residents by creating a niche for the refrigerator in their kitchen by removing the ventilation shaft or part of it.

• It is necessary to regularly check the draft and, if necessary, clean the ventilation ducts.

How to properly create natural ventilation in the kitchen

There is ventilation for the kitchen in an apartment built in accordance with the standards; you just need to check its functionality. But how to properly make natural ventilation in a private house? Ventilation ducts should be located in “dirty” rooms: kitchen, toilet, bathroom, furnace room, utility room, bathhouse. In order to ventilate the entire house, and not just the kitchen, the air flow must come from “clean” rooms: living room, dining room, bedrooms.

Ventilation design, if everything is done in accordance with construction and hygiene standards, involves the calculation of many system parameters. When determining the cross-section of ventilation ducts, the type of installed equipment, volume of premises, building design, and climatic conditions of the area are taken into account.

The calculation is difficult for a non-specialist; those who want to delve into the topic can study SP 60.13330.2012, 54.13330.2011, 62.13330.2012, 131.13330.2012, 7.13130.2011 and SanPiN 2.1.2.2645-10. We will give only basic recommendations, which, in our opinion, are sufficient for installing natural ventilation in most private houses:

• If there are four burners, the volume of air removed must be at least 90 m3/h. To do this, it is enough to bring to the roof a vertical exhaust duct with a cross-section of at least 0.02 m2. This corresponds to a round channel with a diameter of 16 cm or a square one with a size of 14x14 cm (half a brick). More is possible, less is not possible.

• The entrance to the channel should be located on the wall at a distance of 15-30 cm from the ceiling or on the ceiling itself. The last option can be implemented in a private house.

• In order for the natural draft to be sufficiently stable, the channel must be relatively high. Optimal traction is ensured when the channel height is at least 5 meters. Moreover, it should not be cold. In a channel located outside the building and not insulated, during the cold season the draft will be weak or not at all. In a private house, it is best to place ventilation ducts in the center of the house, closer to the ridge.

Forced exhaust ventilation

A ventilation system where contaminated air is removed using a fan is called forced. Kitchen exhaust fans can be installed in various ways:

• Mount directly onto the existing vertical natural exhaust ventilation duct leading to the roof.

• Make a hole in the outer wall where the exhaust fan will exhaust polluted air directly from the room.

Modern equipment allows you to drill holes of the required section in external walls quickly and without dust

• You can hang a wall-mounted kitchen hood with a built-in fan above the stove. Route the air duct from the hood into an existing ventilation duct or into an additional hole in the wall.

• Insert a fan into the window vent of a “Soviet-style” window and you will get a simple and cheap window hood.

Advantages and disadvantages of forced ventilation

• When properly designed, forced draft ventilation has high performance and is potentially capable of quickly removing significant volumes of contaminated air during intensive cooking.

• A kitchen hood installed directly above the stove will remove most of the dirt before it enters the room. As a result, cleaning the kitchen will become much easier.

• Polluted air is removed only while the kitchen hood fan is running.

• A forced system costs money: a kitchen fan or a hood with a fan, their maintenance and the energy spent have their price.

How to properly install an exhaust fan on a natural ventilation duct

When installing the fan, the following points must be taken into account:

• If your kitchen exhaust fan has a check valve that prevents air from the duct from flowing into the room when the fan is not running, the check valve must be removed. Otherwise, the operation of natural exhaust will be disrupted.

• A typical cheap household fan of an axial design is not designed to remove air from a vertical duct. The performance indicated in the passport (the volume of air removed per unit of time) will be realized only if the fan removes air from a horizontal channel, and even then it is not very long.

When connected to a natural exhaust fan, it will be difficult for an inexpensive fan to overcome the resistance of friction and the air column, and its performance will noticeably drop in comparison with the declared one. The higher the channel, the greater the fall.

The axial fan is structurally simple and cheap

• There are special household fans of centrifugal design designed to operate in vertical channels. The drop in productivity depending on the height of the channel is not as great for them as for axial ones. Actual performance when working in a vertical channel will be close to the declared one.

Centrifugal exhaust fans for the kitchen can be built-in or overhead. Disadvantages of centrifugal fans: high price (they are five times more expensive than axial analogues) and relatively large dimensions.

The centrifugal exhaust fan in the kitchen has a more complex design than the axial version. An impeller with multiple blades rotated relative to its axis is capable of creating significant air pressure, which makes it possible to overcome resistance when removing air into a high vertical channel with small losses in performance. The maximum performance of centrifugal fans is lower than that of axial fans with a motor of similar power. But in difficult working conditions their capabilities are more fully realized

So, an axial fan is cheap, but it is of little use when installed on a natural ventilation duct. Centrifugal is effective, but expensive. A suitable alternative is to install the fan in a horizontal duct leading through an outside wall. In this case, you can use a cheap axial exhaust fan without compromising its performance.

Graph of the performance of household fans with motors of similar power depending on the pressure (height of the vertical channel). On the left is an axial fan, on the right is a centrifugal fan. As can be seen from the graphs, when overcoming a pressure of 40 Pa (approximately corresponding to a channel with a height of 25 m), the performance of an axial fan will drop by 80%, and a centrifugal one by only 20%. That is, in these specific conditions (the second floor of a “nine-story building”), the “centrifugal” is four times more efficient than the “axial”

When ducting through a wall, it is necessary to install a check valve at the outlet from the outside. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to drill a hole in the wall if we are talking about a city apartment. But this is not a problem in a private home.

Features of installing a kitchen hood

We won’t talk about how to install a kitchen hood; this should be described in detail in the instructions for it. Let us only remind you that it is necessary to strictly observe the specified height of its placement relative to the tabletop. We also note that using a hood in recirculation mode (without removing air) coupled with a carbon filter will clean the air only from a portion of aerosol particles, mainly fats. Gas combustion products will remain in the room. In addition, a carbon filter that costs some money gets clogged quite quickly and requires replacement.

The hood should be placed higher above a gas stove than above an electric one.

Let's name the main features that should be taken into account when choosing and connecting a kitchen hood:

• A kitchen hood fan, like a household fan installed on a duct, can also have an axial or centrifugal design. Expensive hoods that use centrifugal fans remove air well through a vertical channel; the loss in performance is tolerable.

In cheap hoods, axial fans are often installed; when connected to a vertical duct, they are ineffective. Full operation of a hood with an axial fan is achieved only when air is exhausted through a short horizontal duct through the outer wall.

• When connecting the hood to a vertical natural ventilation duct, it is recommended to remove the check valve on it, if any. In a horizontal channel, the valve is required at the outlet to the outside. It is better to leave it on the hood.

• The cross-section of the ventilation duct should not be less than the cross-section of the hood outlet. You can switch from round pipes to rectangular ones, the main thing is not to narrow the cross-section.

It doesn’t matter what shape the air ducts for connecting the hood will have, the main thing is not to reduce the cross-section of the duct

• When connecting the hood to a vertical duct, it should not interfere with the normal operation of natural ventilation. By the way, many people do not take this requirement into account and, unfortunately, most hoods in our homes are installed incorrectly. We will devote the next section to the question of how to properly connect the hood to the ventilation in the kitchen.

How to properly connect a pipe from a kitchen hood to a natural ventilation duct

From the outlet of the kitchen hood, we need to stretch a pipe of the appropriate cross-section and insert it into the hole in the wall leading into the vertical channel of the natural ventilation system. In practice this is done in different ways:

Sometimes only the pipe supplying air from the hood is connected to the vertical duct, completely closing the opening from the room. It is absolutely forbidden to do this, because the operation of natural ventilation will be disrupted.

An example of how you should never connect a kitchen hood: a room with a gas stove lacks normal natural ventilation. Even if you remember to remove the check valve on the hood, the natural air suction above the stove will be weakened due to the additional resistance to air movement that has arisen. In addition, harmful gases accumulating near the ceiling will not be removed at all.

Many sellers of building materials and finishers recommend connecting the hood to the natural ventilation system through an adapter plate with two holes. One of them is designed to connect the hood, the second opens from the duct into the room. It seems that an exhaust hood was provided and natural ventilation was preserved. Actually this is not true. Firstly, when the hood is operating, almost all of the removed air is returned back into the room. It is much easier for him to exit back through the nearby hole than to go up the channel.

A frequently used connection is the air duct from the hood (1) to the natural ventilation duct (3) through an adapter with two holes. While the hood is not working, air outflows from the room through the second hole (2). But when the hood is turned on, most of the air it removes returns to the room

Secondly, the cross-section of the hole for natural exhaust decreases, unless it is specially expanded. Connection via a two-hole adapter is widely used, but we consider it incorrect due to its very low efficiency.

A widespread but ineffective design for connecting a hood to the duct of a natural ventilation system

In order for both natural and forced ventilation from the hood to function fully, two requirements must be met:

• While the hood is operating, the second hole must be closed so that the exhaust air is not thrown back into the room.

• The total cross-section of the grid openings for natural ventilation should not be less than the cross-section of the vertical channel.

This can be achieved by increasing the area of ​​the natural ventilation grille and installing a check valve behind it so that it closes after turning on the hood. The valve must be installed in such a way that the supporting air flow from the hood closes it, and when the hood is turned off, the valve opens automatically.

A check valve (5) was installed on the hole in the wall in the natural ventilation channel (4), which opens with slight air movement, but closes against a noticeable air flow. When you turn on the hood, it blocks the air from escaping back into the room and you have to climb up the vertical duct to the roof

How to select and install an air check valve when connecting a hood to a duct

For our purposes, of the many types of ventilation valves, only one is suitable - without a drive, without a spring, with a damper that is not divided into segments and is shifted relative to the center of symmetry by its axis of rotation.

Of the three air valves shown, only the one on the left is suitable for our purposes.

After we have selected and purchased the valve, we will have to tinker with installing it in the desired position. In normal mode, the air valve should work like this: there is no air movement - the damper is closed, the air flow opens it. We need to get the opposite result: while the hood is not working, the valve must be completely open. When the hood is turned on, the air pressure from inside the duct should close it. The relatively weak natural movement of air from the room into the duct should not affect the operation of the valve.

The principle of operation of a check valve when connecting a hood to a natural ventilation duct. The illustration shows a spring-loaded valve with a two-piece flapper. Theoretically, this type of valve can be used for our purposes, but in practice it is not easy to select it so that the closing force and air pressure coincide

In the standard position, such a valve is positioned in a horizontal channel in such a way that the damper mounting axis is positioned horizontally, and the larger (and heavier) segment of the curtain “looks” down. In this case, the valve, if there is no air pressure, will be closed. We need to achieve the opposite, the valve must be open. This can be achieved in two ways:

• Install the valve strictly horizontally so that the mounting axis is rotated at an angle of 5-60º to the vertical, while the larger damper sector should be at the top. The angle of inclination at which the damper will be fully open when the hood is not working will have to be selected experimentally. The force to pull the damper and close the valve must be sufficient; a low-power hood may not provide it.

Option for installing an air valve with an inclination of the damper rotation axis

Once the valve is installed and adjusted, the vent can be covered with a grille.

• Position the valve axis strictly vertically, but tilt the valve itself slightly (about 5º) towards the entrance to the natural ventilation channel. The larger segment of the damper should “look” towards the channel. In this case, it will outweigh and the damper will open under its own weight, just as crookedly hung doors open by themselves. The required force to close the valve will be small; you can use a hood of any power.

The axis of rotation of the air valve is set strictly vertically, but it itself is slightly tilted towards the channel. Notice how the valve was hidden in the cabinet for the built-in hood. Air will enter the cabinet from the hole in the top shelf

From the following video you will learn how to use a non-return air valve to connect a kitchen hood to an existing vertical duct, ensuring its maximum performance and without disturbing natural ventilation:

Centralized forced ventilation systems

It is worth mentioning centralized ventilation systems. Office buildings and hotel complexes often have a single ventilation system serving all areas of the building. In housing, as a rule, ventilation is combined within an apartment or private house.

Centralized forced ventilation can be exhaust, supply and exhaust and supply and exhaust with heat recovery. We are convinced that only the last option is suitable for the domestic cold climate.

A supply and exhaust system with heat recovery is not cheap, but it provides real benefits in the form of savings on heating costs and a favorable microclimate. Options without recovery at lower costs are ineffective in our cold climate.

In the supply and exhaust system, air is removed from “dirty” rooms and supplied to “clean” rooms through a system of ventilation ducts. Exhaust and fresh air “meet” in the recuperator, where thermal energy from the heated air being removed is transferred to the cold air coming from the street. In this case, the air flows do not mix.

Operating principle of a ventilation unit with a plate heat exchanger. Warm exhaust air and cold fresh air pass in opposite directions through a heat exchanger consisting of many plates made of a material with good heat transfer. Warm air, without direct contact with cold air, gives it thermal energy

A properly designed and installed ventilation system with heat recovery ensures the transfer of up to 90% of thermal energy from warm air to cold air, which can significantly reduce heating costs and supply air at a comfortable temperature to the premises.

Supply and exhaust recuperative ventilation systems are best suited for modern energy-efficient houses. In Scandinavian countries, this type of ventilation has been mandatory for buildings under construction for many years now, replacing natural exhaust hood.

Installation of a centralized supply and exhaust ventilation system with heat recovery. The exhaust air is collected in “dirty” rooms, and fresh air heated in the heat exchanger is supplied to “clean” rooms.

It is problematic to combine centralized ventilation systems with gas stoves. For a gas stove, you will still have to provide natural ventilation from the room or install complex emergency automation. It is difficult to adequately combine two different ventilation systems (with an exhaust hood - three) in one room. An electric stove does not create such problems.

Local forced ventilation devices (room ventilators)

Local ventilation devices with heat recovery (room ventilator) also deserve mention. Their operating principle is similar to central systems: the outgoing air heats the incoming air. The ventilator provides ventilation in one separate room.

Some models resemble the internal units of split air conditioners in shape and dimensions. The illustration shows a MitsubishiElectricLossnay room ventilator. The circulation fan is located on the right side of the case, the paper heat exchanger is on the left. To install it in the outer wall, you need to drill two holes with a diameter of 8 cm

Equipping a house or apartment with local forced ventilation with heat recovery is several times cheaper than installing a centralized system. And the level of comfort obtained is not much lower.

Local ventilation with recovery is very good for living rooms. A ventilator in the kitchen wouldn’t hurt either, but natural ventilation and a powerful hood vented horizontally into the wall would be more useful. When choosing local ventilation devices, preference should be given to those models in which the volume of supplied air exceeds the volume of air removed.

A popular and relatively inexpensive “breathing” room ventilator, where the removal and supply of air occurs alternately through one channel. A ceramic recuperator accumulates heat while warm air passes through it and then releases it to cold air

The procedure for changing the ventilation cycles of a “breathing” ventilator. This device is well suited for living rooms, but not for the kitchen

What type of ventilation to choose for the kitchen in a house or apartment

Those who are building a solid country house or furnishing an elite apartment, or constructing an energy-saving building using “passive house” technology, should pay attention to an expensive, but comfortable and economical system of forced supply and exhaust ventilation with heat recovery. In the kitchen you should install a powerful hood with outlet to the wall; it is better (and healthier) to use an electric stove. If the house has a gas boiler, the room where it is installed must be equipped with natural exhaust and independent air flow.

For those who are building their own house on a more modest scale and have a limited budget, we advise that you definitely provide vertical channels for natural ventilation in the kitchen, bathrooms, furnace room, bathhouse, utility room and hallway if clothes are dried there.

Ventilation in a private house in the kitchen should be supplemented by a hood above the stove with a separate air duct. It is best to route the duct for removing air from the hood not to the roof, but through the outer wall to the street. A check valve should be installed outside to prevent cold air from entering inside. A fan on the natural ventilation channel should be installed in the toilet and bathroom; in the kitchen, if there is a hood, this is not particularly necessary.

It is best to route the air duct from the hood outside through the outer wall

For an apartment, we recommend a similar option: natural ventilation (available by default), a good exhaust hood above the stove, a fan in the bathroom. It is advisable to vent the hood through the wall; if this does not work, use the scheme described above with a check valve. In our opinion, an additional kitchen fan is not needed.

Finally, we would like to remind you once again that a properly selected and installed kitchen hood and fan will add comfort, but will not replace the natural ventilation system. And incorrect connection of the hood may not only not improve, but also significantly worsen the performance of ventilation. We recommend that you pay special attention to the issue of room ventilation and entrust its design and installation, as well as the connection of the hood, only to competent craftsmen.

During the cooking process with a gas hob, harmful, unwanted combustion products are released that negatively affect the human body. When you spend a long time in a room with a high content of carcinogens, your performance sharply decreases, your well-being worsens, and the risk of developing dangerous diseases increases. A kitchen hood is a solution to this problem.

For large apartments, restaurants, canteens, they buy standard factory equipment and install it. In a small room after renovation or when changing the design, you can make a kitchen hood with your own hands. If you follow the described recommendations, the process of self-production will not take much time, labor and money.

Similar articles:

Kitchen hood functions

Every hour in the rooms used for food preparation, a 10-fold exchange of air must occur, for which the following must be done:

1. The room must be cleaned of harmful impurities formed as a result of heat treatment of products.
2. The surface of the stove is thoroughly treated with detergents.
3. The owner of the apartment must install a hood in the kitchen.

The kitchen structure performs the following functions:

• protection of ceilings, walls and furniture from soot and greasy dust;
• air purification and filtration;
• trapping smoke and odors resulting from combustion;
• removal of fumes emanating from the stove;
• preventing the spread of harmful carcinogens into adjacent rooms.

Such equipment in the kitchen is often a design element. The frames are made of wood, glass, plasterboard sheets or plywood in different shapes and with decoration, which directly affects the design of the kitchen hood.

The kitchen exhaust mechanism consists of the following parts:

1. Frame.
2. Ventilation mechanism.
3. Gearbox.
4. Rectangular duct.
5. Government.
6. Filters.
7. Connectors.
8. The knee is rectangular.
9. Wall plate.

The electrical circuit consists of the following components:

Exhaust fan with electric motor.	The main element of the hood ensures the movement of air flow through the filter parts. The electric motor is an asynchronous multi-speed motor in which its rotation speed varies due to different connections of the stator windings. The fan design can be axial or tangential.
Speed ​​shifter.	A simple and convenient way to switch is the buttons and slide switch. They instantly change the parameters of the electrical network, applying voltage to the motor windings. Backlit sensors with an original design are used in expensive models.
Lighting lamps.	The surface of the stove is illuminated using incandescent lamps, halogens or LEDs. LED devices are more economical.
Filters.	Grease filters are used to protect against dirt and purify the air, and fine or carbon filters are used for disinfection.

Do-it-yourself kitchen hood is divided into 2 types:

1. Flow-through. The device operates with the removal of contaminated air. The air duct takes it out through the ventilation system from the room to the street. This installation is characterized by high productivity and maximum efficiency.
2. Circulation. The equipment operates in recirculation mode without connection to the ventilation system. The cleaning process is carried out by carbon filters located in the body of the device, in which already purified air will flow back. This type of hood is less efficient, but is characterized by quick and convenient installation.

The standard size of a dome-type hood looks like this:

• width – 50-90 cm;
• length – 50, 70, 90, 120 cm;
• depth – 50 cm.

When determining equipment parameters, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the slab. The cooking surface should not be larger than the surface of the exhaust device.

Types of fastenings

According to the installation method, a homemade kitchen hood is divided into 4 types:

1. Wall-mounted. Attach to the wall above the stove.
2. Corner. Installed in the corner of the kitchen.
3. Built-in. They are built into a wall cabinet above the hob or into a table located near it, and the product is also installed in a decorative fireplace dome.
4. Ostrovnaya. Attached to the ceiling.

When attaching the product, take into account the following: the distance between the equipment and the electric stove must be at least 70 cm, gas - 80 cm.

We perform power calculations

For a competent approach to the question of how to make a hood in the kitchen yourself, you need to pay special attention to performance calculations.

The power of the equipment shows the volume of air flow that the mechanism passes in 1 hour of operation. It is calculated using the following formula:

/t, where

• S – kitchen area, m²;
• H – ceiling height, m;
• K1 – minimum reserve coefficient, K1=1.3;
• K2 – air exchange coefficient for the kitchen, K2=12;
• t – time at which air exchange occurs, t=1 hour.

Power is measured in m³/hour.

electrical safety

The exhaust device belongs to the category of electrical devices that pose a risk of electric shock. As a result of the settling of fat and moisture in the mechanism, a breakdown of electricity from the fan motor to the metal frame is possible. In addition, the room itself is also dangerous due to elevated ambient temperatures and high humidity.

Let's figure out how to properly make a hood, fulfilling all electrical safety requirements.

Important: the product is connected to the network with 3 wires: phase-0-ground. Before installation, perform reliable grounding. To do this, connect to a dead neutral. Do not ground the hood to a drain or gas pipe.

The protective grounding process is performed as follows:

1. Open the introductory panel in the house or entrance. This requires caution and attention, because the voltage is 220 V.
2. The wires come out of a pipe built into the wall.
3. Locate the threaded pin with the ground connections connected to it. This is a solid neutral, which is already grounded in a special place. Do not disconnect other ground connections - this is life-threatening.
4. Throw the terminal up and tighten with the nut.
5. Connect a 2.5 mm² wire to the device installation location.
6. Connect the hood to the electrical network through a 6.3 A circuit breaker.

Wiring for equipment is laid depending on the design of the kitchen. If the connection is made automatically, it is mounted behind the wall cladding, in a PVC box, under the baseboard, and when plugged into a socket, behind the furniture.

If there are problems with conducting electricity to the hood, it is better to use the services of an electrician.

Before installing a hood in the kitchen, check the serviceability of the ventilation ducts in the house. If the ventilation is clogged or partially dirty, the traction force decreases and the hood does not work at full capacity. Therefore, first they clean the system and ensure air flow into the kitchen.

The devices are made of heat-resistant, corrosion-resistant and durable materials. Stainless steel is often used to make the case, then coated with enamel.

A simple and inexpensive way is to install the equipment in a cabinet above the hob. To do this, install a corrugated pipe and an electric fan inside. If there is no such cabinet, and the exhaust unit itself does not look aesthetically pleasing, the hood is made of plasterboard. The manufacturing process is labor-intensive and expensive, but the result is impressive.

From plasterboard

To make a kitchen hood with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

1. Drywall.
2. Galvanized metal profile.
3. Corners.
4. Corrugated pipe.
5. Fastening elements.
6. Paint, putty.
7. Insulating material.
8. Perforated
9. Screwdriver.
10. Scissors for cutting metal.
11. Laser level or tape measure.
12. Brushes, spatula.

The hood manufacturing process is carried out in several stages:

Marking.	To do this, you need to determine the area where the ventilation hole will be located. If it is located away from the slab, the corrugated pipe is placed in a plasterboard box.
Creating a frame.	The frame for the hood has special features. The easiest way to place an air vent is in a straight line, without corners or deviations. Galvanized metal profiles are mounted to the wall using anchors along the entire perimeter. If the pipe runs with bends, first make markings on the ceiling, lay the first profile down in parts and secure it with self-tapping screws. Then install the second part and the transverse strips. The frame elements should be covered with plasterboard.
Manufacturing of the body.	A lower frame is made from the profile and secured. After this, parts of the frame are cut out and connected to the base. To enhance rigidity, the sides are equipped with additional jumpers.
Connection to the ventilation system.	A hole is made in the air duct for the corrugation to exit and the presence of draft is checked. For silent operation, they are sheathed with insulating material.
Decorative finishing.	Corners are attached to the corners, after which drywall must be applied to all elements of the device, treated with putty and painted.

At the entrance to the ventilation system inside the housing, you can install an electric fan and connect it to the power supply.

From plywood

You can make a kitchen hood with your own hands from inexpensive and affordable materials, such as plywood. The work is carried out according to the principle of arranging a plasterboard structure.

To make a box for a kitchen hood, the walls of the dome and frame are cut out of thin plywood sheets with scissors, glued, sanded, and processed. The last step is painting or applying varnish.

What do you do with old furniture?