How much weight does the edged board support? Calculating the floor in the garage How to make a wooden floor.

11-05-2012: Sergei

Thank you very much in detail and understandable, the channel suits me.

18-01-2013: Vladislav Ivanovich

Thanks for the helpful articles.
Please specify where the figure 34.2 comes from in the sentence: "the channel has a resistance moment of 34.9 cm3, and the I-beam is 34.2 cm3"? In the assortment I found only - channel 10P Wz-34.9 cm3, but I don't see 34.2 point-blank. Or have I misunderstood something?

18-01-2013: Dr. Lom

Yes, indeed, the article contains a typo. For I-beam No. 10, the moment of resistance is 37.9 cm3. Corrected a typo, thanks for your attention.

08-09-2013: Maksim

At the very beginning, the load is indicated as 25 kg / m2, and the moment is given in kg METERS. The load still needs to be divided by the cargo area, otherwise - where are the square meters?

08-09-2013: Dr. Lom

The fact is that to simplify the calculations, the load is calculated on beams located after 1 m or on a conventional beam 1 m wide.Therefore, the load per 1 m ^ 2 is multiplied by 1 m and you get linear meters. I actually said it late enough. I'll insert earlier.

20-10-2013: Alexander

Good afternoon!
house 10x10 (9.4x9.4), it is required to pour a slab of h-14 cm along beams 14 through 1.6 m (the beams will be in concrete) reinforcement 8 step 250x250 in two grids. The calculation showed Fm 1.4 cm. Please develop my doubts

20-10-2013: Dr. Lom

As far as I understand, you are going to lay metal beams, most likely from an I-beam, and there will be reinforced concrete slabs between them. So, for a slab 1.6 m long, the reinforcement looks quite sufficient, but whether the metal beams will withstand the load is a big question.
It's another matter if in the middle of the house there are walls that are the middle support for the beams. However, you have not written anything about the interior walls.

14-02-2014: Basil

Under the conditions of the problem, the pipe is 60 * 60 * 3.5, and as a result we get I-beam No. 12, what about the pipe? throw away?

14-02-2014: Dr. Lom

In principle, if the task is to use only the specified pipe, then there is such an option. Now I will add an addition to the article (it will not fit in the commentary).

25-03-2014: Andrew

Hello, tell me, 63 equal angles, laid on supports after 1.5 m, will withstand a standard load (400-500 kg / m)?

26-03-2014: Dr. Lom

05-06-2014: vladimir

kind. I got confused in the article of trees overlapping f load distributed 400 * 4m and here the load is 6.5 * 400 cm.And why when the distance between the beams I make less deflection increases

05-06-2014: Dr. Lom

In the article on the calculation of a wooden floor, a uniformly distributed load is considered. Here, when determining the deflection of the board, the concentrated load from the wheel is considered. Both uniformly distributed and concentrated loads act on the beam, therefore P
when determining the deflection of a beam, to simplify calculations, the concentrated load is reduced to a uniformly distributed (approximately enough). The basic principles of converting a concentrated load to a distributed one are given in a separate article.
As the distance between the beams decreases, the deflection of both the boards and the beams will decrease. The article gives an example of determining the deflection of boards with a distance between the beams of 1 m and 0.8 m. When determining the deflection of a board, the span decreases, and when determining the deflection of a beam, the load on the beam decreases.

Yes, indeed the modulus of elasticity of wood is about 1000 kg / mm ^ 2. Corrected, thanks for your attention.

20-08-2014: Alexey

Good evening Dr. Lom
I ask for help with the question of pouring the floor in the garage on spilled and compacted sand 200mm thick. I plan to pour B15 with a thickness of 150mm 5.5m * 9.5m for two cars, I am interested in the reinforcement scheme, there is a 6mm A3 reinforcement.

21-08-2014: Dr. Lom

In your case, on the one hand, the reinforcement is not needed (if everything is properly sealed), and on the other hand, for reliability, it is desirable to make the existing reinforcement both the lower and upper reinforcement of the slab with a mesh with a cell of about 150 mm (a slab on an elastic base with several concentrated loads and other surprises). Moreover, for the upper reinforcement, 15 mm of the protective layer is sufficient, and for the lower reinforcement, the norms require at least 60 mm of the protective layer when laying directly on the ground. Therefore, it is easier to first make a concrete preparation about 5 cm thick, and then make a 10 cm slab with reinforcement on it.

21-08-2014: Alexey

That is, if I understood correctly, it would be good to make reinforcement from above and below with a protective layer of 20 mm both there and there, right?

21-08-2014: Dr. Lom

Yes, if concrete preparation or waterproofing is done first.

22-08-2014: Alexey

Thank you very much, waterproofing with a 250 micron PE foil.

04-10-2014: Sergei

Dear Doctor Lom, can you please tell me if I made the correct calculation for this problem. And then when you start - you think, and not a little, having made the same calculation, you see that there is even a margin. I just don't know how the racks will behave.
It is necessary to make a formwork for pouring a floor slab with a height of 15cm and 7.55m x 4.25m in the gap.
If the beams, racks and floorboards are made of a 40x150 mm board, 4.25; 2.06 and 3.77 meters long, respectively. The span between the beams is 0.9 m, the distance between the posts is 1.4 m.
Because I have three span beam with equal spans and evenly distributed load, then the bending moment will be M \u003d ql2 / 10 \u003d 400x1.42 / 10 \u003d 78.4kgm or 7840 kgcm. A board is used - pine of the 2nd grade and the moment of resistance for it is W \u003d 7840 / 132.56 \u003d 59.14 cm3. And then the height of the beam will be
h \u003d? 59.14 x6 / 4 \u003d 9.42 cm we take 10 cm (in doubt).
We determine what load the boards will withstand. The concrete load will be approximately
q \u003d 0.15x2500 \u003d 375kg / m2. The load from the boards themselves with a thickness of 40 mm will be approximately
0.04x500 \u003d 20kg / m2. the total load will be 375 + 20 \u003d 395, or even 400kg / m2.
In 1 m2 of flooring there are 6.67 boards with a width of 15 cm.Then the load on one board with a length of 1 m
will be 400 / 6.67 \u003d 59.97 or 60kgm, or 6000kgcm. Required moment of resistance
Wtr \u003d 6000/100 \u003d 60cm3, then the board height will be? 6x60 / 15 \u003d 4.9cm,
we take 5 cm.Then for such a board W \u003d 15x 52/6 \u003d 375/6 \u003d 62.5 cm3.
Then the maximum bending moment 63x100 \u003d 6300kgcm, and the maximum span
2x6300 / 62.5 \u003d 12600 / 62.5 \u003d 201.6 cm (something doubtful).

04-10-2014: Dr. Lom

I'll try briefly. In general, all this can be accepted. Now in more detail.

Since you have a span of 0.9 m between the beams, the calculated load on the beam will be slightly less, however, given that you will move along the formwork during concreting, a small margin will not hurt.
The height of the beam is 10 cm, I have no doubts, but this is according to the strength calculation. In order not to fiddle with the calculation of deformations, just accept the beam height equal to the board height.
And then you hurried a little. The load on one board with a width of 15 cm can indeed be taken as 60 kg / m (and not 60 kgm), then even if a board on 2 beams is laid in one or several sections (such a board will be a single-span beam), then the maximum bending moment for such a short board will be M \u003d 60x0.9 ^ 2/8 \u003d 6.075 kgm or 607.5 kgcm. Accordingly, Wtr \u003d 607.5 / 100 \u003d 6.075 cm ^ 3, and W boards \u003d 15x4 ^ 2/6 \u003d 40 cm ^ 3, i.e. your stock is more than decent.
I advise you to look at the article "Calculation of a wooden floor", there all these features are discussed in sufficient detail, and about checking the stability of a wooden rack there is also a separate article "An example of calculating a wooden rack, struts for compression". Here I will just say that the load on the struts is the support reactions for a three-span beam.

06-10-2014: Sergei

Recalculated according to the article "Calculation of a wooden floor" it turns out that with q \u003d 400kg / m ^ 2 and a span length of 0.9 m, the bending moment (400x0.9 ^ 2) / 8 \u003d 4050kgcm, the moment of resistance is 4050/130 \u003d 31.15 cm ^ 3 and then the height of the beam with a width of 4 cm will be 6.84 cm.If I understand everything correctly, then, in principle, it is possible to increase the distance between the beams, although this will not lead to much savings, and in such situations it seems to me better to overlook than not finish.
Now on the racks. Rack load \u003d 1.1ql \u003d 1.1x400x1.4 \u003d 616 kg. With a rack width of 4 cm, the radius of gyration will be iy \u003d (Iy / F) ^ 1/2 \u003d (b ^ 2/12) ^ 1/2 \u003d (4 ^ 2/12) ^ 1/2 \u003d 1.15 cm. The rack length is 206cm then rack flexibility? \u003d lo / iy \u003d 206 / 1.15 \u003d 179.13. Because? \u003e 70, then? \u003d A /? 2 \u003d 3000 / 179.3 ^ 2 \u003d 0.094. The area of \u200b\u200bthe selected section is F \u003d 4x15 \u003d 60 cm2. Now we determine whether the selected section is enough 616 / (0.094x60) \u003d 109.22<130 кг/см2 - т.е. стоек размером 206х15х4 см вполне достаточно.Вот только с таблицей предельных значений гибкости непонятно. Мне думается, что для моей конструкции больше подходт определение "Основные элементы", для которых предельная гибкость 150 у меня же получилась 179, а по сечению вроде бы нормально. Как здесь быть и верны ли мои расчеты.

06-10-2014: Dr. Lom

In general, everything is correct, but for the racks the flexibility is really too big, it is better to make racks from two knocked down boards for reliability, then the flexibility will decrease by 2 times.

07-10-2014: Dmitriy

Dr. Lom, Tell me in this question.
We are building a basement in the garage, the perimeter of the basement is made of FBS, size 4.3 * 2.3, then we plan to fill the ceiling of the basement with boton. At the moment, they put 4 pieces of I-beam 10s with a step of 90 cm on the FBS, a board was laid between the tvutavr, a 12th reinforcement was laid along the perimeter, all this will be poured with concrete (2m3) about 15 cm.Will the I-beam withstand, as I understand it, after setting, the plate itself will already take on part of the load. Further, the slab will be covered with a layer of clay 1.8 meters.

08-10-2014: Dr. Lom

If the channel is about 2.3 m long, then this is quite enough for the formwork, and then everything will depend on how the reinforcement is laid. If the reinforcement is also about 2.3 m long and is laid along the channels, then such a plate after curing will indeed have a certain bearing capacity. If the reinforcement is short, about 0.9 m long, then such a slab will still transfer the load to the channel, and such channel should also be calculated for the load from the overlying soil.

08-10-2014: Sergei

Tell me, if I replace the beams and struts with a pipe, and I make the beam two-span, are my calculations correct in this case?
Pipe D \u003d 57, d \u003d 50; span 2.1 m
Cross-sectional area F \u003d 5.88 cm2
Moment of inertia Iу \u003d 21.44 cm3
Moment of resistance Wz \u003d Wy \u003d 7.42 cm3

Maximum bending moment
Mmax \u003d (q x l2) / 8 \u003d 400x2.12 / 8 \u003d 220.5kgm or 22050kgcm
Required moment of resistance:
Wreq \u003d 22050/2100 \u003d 10.5 cm3
Support reaction B \u003d 10ql / 8 \u003d (10 * 400 * 2.1) / 8 \u003d 1050
Radius of gyration iy \u003d (Iy / F)? \u003d (21.44 / 5.88) 1.2 \u003d 1.9 cm
The length of the rack is 206cm, then the flexibility of the rack? \u003d lo / iy \u003d 206 / 1.9 \u003d 108.42
Buckling factor? \u003d 0.520
Design resistance of steel. Ry \u003d 2100 kgf / cm2
Determine if the section of this rack is sufficient
1050/(0,52*5,88)=343.47< 2100, т.е. достаточно.

09-10-2014: Dr. Lom

For struts, the pipe is really enough, but for a two-span beam, it is not, since the required moment of resistance is greater than the moment of resistance of the pipe. So it is better to leave the three-span beam.

20-10-2014: Sergei

Tell me, dear Dr. Lom, what method should be used to calculate the walls of a frame house? And do the structures of wall posts have the right to life in the given example https://yadi.sk/i/oBGwmSEAc9PRM, the fact is that I need a wall with a thickness of at least 18 cm, and from the lumber that can be bought from us I can make racks are at best 13 or 15 cm wide. In the first version, the width of the racks can be different from the same, say 8 + 8 + 2 (veins), to, for example, 10 + 6 + 2. In the second version 13 + 13 or 15 + 15 with an overlap. The step of the posts in both cases is no more than 60cm. Thanks.

21-10-2014: Dr. Lom

The structure of the wall of a frame house depends on the design loads and may well be the same as in the picture you specified.
There is nothing complicated in calculating the racks, see the article "An example of calculating a wooden rack, struts for compression."

30-10-2014: Sergei

Dear Dr. Lom! Made calculations of racks on the basis of "Example of calculating a wooden rack, struts for compression", even more questions arose. https://yadi.sk/i/Ttgq6oURcPEv8, https://yadi.sk/i/cX4eR8kJcPFE9, https://yadi.sk/i/fx2bi7j1cPFHQ, as you can see in the first two cases, the limit values \u200b\u200bof flexibility exceed the allowable values. Although I revised a lot of projects of frame houses and, in general, the thickness of the racks there is 30-35 mm. But the whole structure is then sheathed with plywood, OSB or boards and a rigid box is obtained. Maybe on this basis flexibility can be neglected? Next question. If I assemble racks in for a whip, as in the figure https://yadi.sk/i/7Z7-21X5cPGMj, then what width should I take b1 or b2? Or share the load? I assume the following construction https://yadi.sk/i/q1bH0kZzcPGeU. How to calculate the rack if it goes through two floors?

30-10-2014: Dr. Lom

Since your racks will be sheathed with sheet material, then you need to consider not individual bars - racks, but the entire structure as a whole. In other words, you need to determine all the necessary parameters for a composite section (for 1 running meter of a wall), how this is done, you can see in the article "Calculation of the strength of a ceiling profile for drywall".
Even if the rack passes through 10 floors, then the calculated length will still be equal to the height of one floor, if the floors prevent the horizontal movement of the racks (and this is usually the case).

05-11-2014: Sergei

Dear Dr. Lom!
Dealing with the formulas: determining the position of the center of gravity of the section
yc \u003d Sz / F \u003d (F1y1 + 2F2y2 + 2F3y3) / (F1 + 2F2 + 2F3) \u003d (0.3x0.025 + 2x0.13x1.35 + 2x0.03x2.675) /0.69 \u003d (0.0075 + 0.351 + 0.1675) /0.69 \u003d 0.7623 cm.
and moment of inertia
Iz \u003d? (Iz + y2F) \u003d 6x0.053 / 12 + 6x0.05x (0.7623 - 0.025) 2 + 2 (0.05x2.63 / 12) + 2 (0.05x2.6) (1.3 - 0.7623) 2 + 2 (0.6x0.053 / 12) + 2 (0.6x0.05) (2.7 - 0.7623 - 0.025) 2 \u003d 0.0000625 + 0.16308 + 0.14646 + 0.07517 + 0.000012 + 0.2195 \u003d 0.6043 cm4.
confused with the values \u200b\u200bof y1, y2, and y3. If with y1 it is more or less clear, then with y2 and y3 he got confused. In the first case, y2 \u003d 1.35, y3 \u003d 2.675, then in the second 1.3 and 2.7, respectively. I sketched out a picture here https://yadi.sk/i/m0qkSgDPcVaQN and it seems to me that the values \u200b\u200by2 \u003d 1.347 and y3 \u003d 2.65 should be more correct. Or have I misunderstood something?
And if 1 running meter of the wall looks like this for me https://yadi.sk/i/hXc0UrrocVaRb, then how to determine the position of the center of gravity of the section here? Or do you need to take this meter so that all the racks are located symmetrically?

05-11-2014: Dr. Lom

1. Since the center of gravity of the reduced section is not known to us, the calculation is performed relative to the axes passing through the lowermost (y-axis) and leftmost (z-axis) points of the cross-section. Accordingly, y2 \u003d 1.35, and y3 \u003d 2.675 (however, the figure you specified does not correctly display the position of the centers of gravity of simple geometric shapes).
2. Even if you have an asymmetrical section, the calculation algorithms will not change. The determination of the center of gravity of the reduced section is carried out in the same way (of course, provided that the design resistance of the bars and sheet material is equal).

06-11-2014: Sergei

Dear Dr. Lom! I apologize for the annoyance, but I would like to understand this issue, but I have not studied the strength of materials. Now https://yadi.sk/i/POh_IJyzcX4Lt, I hope I have correctly placed the center and distances. In this design, will I have to count the sections of all (1,2,3,4,5) elements? And elements 1 and 3 should be considered as integral, or if there is a joint somewhere, then as two different elements?
And yet, Dr. Lom, we need purely practical advice. I get a big span, almost 6 meters, I don't want to put up columns. We need floor beams (interfloor) with a height of more than 20 cm, but here it is unrealistic to find such a board, if you order from somewhere, it will be gold. If I collect them like this https://yadi.sk/i/1dCeDVrkcX4wy, will it be necessary to count them as a wall?

06-11-2014: Dr. Lom

Yes, now you have everything correctly placed and you really need to first determine the cross-sectional areas of all 5 elements. However, elements 1 and 3, 2 and 5 have the same area (judging by the figure), besides, the distance from the center of gravity to the axis of elements 2 and 5 is the same, which makes it possible to reduce the number of mathematical operations. In addition, you can simplify the calculations even more if you do not take into account the presence of element 4 in the calculations. This element has a relatively small area and if you do not take it into account, then the result you get will give a small margin of safety, which will never hurt, but then the section will be symmetric and the center of gravity will then be in the middle of the section height and this will further simplify the determination of the moment of inertia of the section.
Even if there is a joint somewhere in elements 1 and 3, then this does not affect the value of the moment of inertia about the axis in question, therefore these elements can be considered as solid, of course, provided that the gap at the joint is small, however, the adopted margin may be useful here by strength.
Yes, the moment of inertia and moment of resistance for beam cross-sections are determined in the same way as for the wall cross-section. For information, see the article "Moments of Inertia of a Cross Section".

07-11-2014: Sergei

Dear Dr. Lom! I got to the calculation of the bending moment https://yadi.sk/i/xJifMrKycYX86 and quit again. The design resistance of wood is 130kg / cm2, of plywood Rf \u003d (180 + 110) / 2 \u003d 145kg / cm2. And in order to make them common, do you need to take the average or somehow else? And I hope you wrote the formulas correctly?

07-11-2014: Dr. Lom

In order not to bother with determining the characteristics of the reduced section, just make the calculation for the lowest design resistance. Again, this will give a small margin of safety, since the difference in the design resistances is not large.
And yet, since you have a symmetrical section, the center of gravity of the section will be on the same axis as the centers of gravity of the bars. Those. mustache \u003d y2 \u003d 8.4 cm. And you got an error due to the fact that you incorrectly determined the values \u200b\u200bof y1 and y3 (0.9 / 2 \u003d 0.45 and not 0.045). In addition, when determining the moment of resistance, the value of the moment of inertia must be divided by the mustache (y2).

07-11-2014: Sergei

Fixed it, it turned out like this https://yadi.sk/i/HHfR-Js0cZRTC. If I understand this calculation correctly, then a meter of such a wall will hold one and a half tons boldly, i.e. interfloor ceiling, walls of the second floor, attic floor and roof can be installed?

07-11-2014: Dr. Lom

Maybe it will stand, but only it is necessary to check it by calculation. And I don't do calculations, I can only suggest something based on theory.

08-11-2014: Sergei

And what I thought was not a calculation? Or perhaps you need something else to calculate? Tell me please.

08-11-2014: Dr. Lom

The calculation, of course, but not quite the same. You were kind of going to check the frame wall for stability (i.e. the structure, which will be mainly subjected to longitudinal loads), and not the beam on the action of the moment arising from the action of transverse forces. Return to the article "An example of calculating a wooden rack, struts for compression". And if a part of the load to your walls is applied with eccentricity, for example, from floor beams, then additionally take into account the moment that arises, there is a similar example in the article "Calculation of metal columns".

02-07-2015: Alexey

Good afternoon, Doctor Lom! I decided to calculate the floor slab of a garage with a basement for two cars. Basement walls t \u003d 400 mm are monolithic, slab 7x7 m 200 mm thick. Based on your scheme, I assumed that the most unfavorable position of the machines will be if they stand on top of each other (which cannot be, but I don’t know otherwise how to count). Considering that the weight of the car is 2000 kg, then pushing the wheel to the floor from two cars will be 1000 kg:
M (auto) \u003d (250 + 1000 * 50/700) * 500 \u003d 160714.3kgs * cm
live load: q (w) \u003d 400 kg / sq.m.
floor load: q (floor) \u003d 100 kg / sq.m.
floor load: q (slab) \u003d 500 kg / sq.m.
q (total) \u003d 400 + 100 + 500 \u003d 1000 and multiply by the reliability coefficient 1.2 \u003d 1200 kg / m2.
Ma \u003d q (total) * l * l / 16 \u003d 1200 * 49/16 \u003d 3675kg / m
M \u003d (Ma + Mb) / 2 \u003d (3675 * 1.4142 + 3675) / 2 \u003d 4436.1 kgm * m
M (max) \u003d M + M (auto) \u003d 443610 + 1607144.3 \u003d 604324.3kgf * cm
we select fittings:
hо1 \u003d 18cm
hо2 \u003d 16cm
concrete B25 Rb \u003d 147kgf / cm2
Ao1 \u003d 604324.3 / (100 * 18 * 18 * 147) \u003d 0.127; n (o1) \u003d 0.93; e (o1) \u003d 0.14;
Ao2 \u003d 604324.3 / (100 * 16 * 16 * 147) \u003d 0.16; n (o1) \u003d 0.91; e (o1) \u003d 0.18;
Fo1 \u003d 6043.243 / (093 * 0.18 * 36000000) \u003d 10 sq. Cm;
Fo2 \u003d 6043.243 / (091 * 0.16 * 36000000) \u003d 11.53 sq. Cm.
according to the table, we take reinforcement 16 w. \u003d 150 * 150 F \u003d 12.06 sq. cm.
I want to lay the upper and lower mesh in the slab with reinforcement 16 w. \u003d 150 * 150. Tell me, did I choose the mesh correctly, do I think it correctly, and how to calculate the deflection? What and how else to calculate?

03-07-2015: Dr. Lom

In principle, you did a good job and counted almost everything, but there are a few comments:
1. Your situation is somewhat different from that described in the article. The most unfavorable option will be when 2 cars will stand side by side and, accordingly, 4 conditionally concentrated loads from the wheels will act on the plate. Therefore, it makes sense for you to reduce, to simplify the calculations, these concentrated loads to an equivalent uniformly distributed one (all the same, the support reaction and, accordingly, the bending moment from the cars you determined incorrectly). Check out the article "Bringing a Lumped Load to an Equally Distributed Load".
2. With this diameter of the reinforcement, the protective layer is not sufficient; should be taken and not less than 2.5 cm and, accordingly, hо1 \u003d 17.5 cm.
For the upper mesh, you can use reinforcement of a smaller diameter, reinforcing it with additional rods along a contour 1-1.5 m long.If you will lay reinforcement in both the upper and lower sectional zones, then you will need transverse reinforcement (however, you will still need it, so as a plate height greater than 15 cm). How to choose it, see the article "Design requirements for the reinforcement of beams and floor slabs".
Regarding the deflection, there are articles "Determination of the deflection of reinforced concrete beams", but you can also use the coefficient, see the article "Tables for calculating plates hinged along the contour".

07-07-2015: Alexey

Good evening, Doctor Lom! Thanks for the comments! I continued to count, taking into account your comments:
on the article "Bringing a concentrated load to a uniformly distributed one":
the article indicates two options: a) M (auto (a) \u003d 1.2 * 4 * q * l ^ 2/8 * l \u003d 1.2 * 4 * 500 * 7 * 7/7 * 8 \u003d 2100kgs * m
M \u003d 4436.1 kgm * m
M (max (a) \u003d M + M (auto) \u003d 4436.1 + 2100 \u003d 6536.1 kgf * m
we select fittings:
hо1 \u003d 17.5cm
hо2 \u003d 15.5cm
concrete B25 Rb \u003d 147kgf / cm2
Ao1 \u003d 653610 / (100 * 17.5 * 17.5 * 147) \u003d 0.1452; n (o1) \u003d 0.92; e (o1) \u003d 0.16;
Ao2 \u003d 653610 / (100 * 15.5 * 15.5 * 147) \u003d 0.16; n (o1) \u003d 0.895; e (o1) \u003d 0.21;
Fo1 \u003d 6536.10 / (0.92 * 0.175 * 36000000) \u003d 11.3 sq. Cm;
Fo2 \u003d 6536.10 / (0.895 * 0.155 * 36000000) \u003d 13.1 sq. Cm.
according to the table, we take reinforcement 18 w. \u003d 150 * 150 F \u003d 14.07 sq. cm.
Further on the article "Tables for calculating plates hinged along the contour":

f \u003d -k * q * l ^ 4 / (E * h ^ 3)
q \u003d 1.2 * 4 * q / 8 * l \u003d 1.2 * 4 * 500/8 * 7 \u003d 43kg / m
f \u003d 0.0443 * 43 * 7 ^ 4/30 * 10 ^ -3 * 102000 * 0.2 ^ 3 \u003d 187 cm
f \u003d 187cm is a lot, I decided to calculate according to the article "Determination of the deflection of reinforced concrete beams":
f \u003d k * 5 * q * l ^ 4/384 * E * I
k \u003d 0.86
q \u003d q (auto) + q (gen.) \u003d 43 + 1200 \u003d 1243 kg * m
W \u003d q * l / 8 * Rb \u003d 12.43 * 700 ^ 2/8 * 147 \u003d 5180 cm3
y2 \u003d (3 * W / 2 * b) ^ 0.5 \u003d (3 * 5180/2 * 100) ^ 0.5 \u003d 8.82
y ^ 3 \u003d 3 * As * (ho-y) ^ 2 * Es / b * Eb
y \u003d 9.59 cm
y (p) \u003d y- (y2-y) \u003d 9.59- (8.82-9.59) \u003d 10.36cm
I \u003d 2 * b * y (p) ^ 3/3 \u003d 2 * 100 * 10.36 ^ 3/3 \u003d 74129 cm4
f \u003d 0.86 * 5 * 12.43 * 700 ^ 4/384 * 300000 * 74129 \u003d 1.5 cm

Now I calculated for option b) M (auto (b) \u003d q * l / 2 \u003d 500 * 7/2 \u003d 1750kgs * m
M \u003d 4436.1 kgm * m
M (max (b) \u003d M + M (auto) \u003d 4436.1 + 1750 \u003d 6186.1 kgf * m
we select fittings:
hо1 \u003d 17.5cm
hо2 \u003d 15.5cm
concrete B25 Rb \u003d 147kgf / cm2
Ao1 \u003d 618610 / (100 * 17.5 * 17.5 * 147) \u003d 0.138; n (o1) \u003d 0.925; e (o1) \u003d 0.15;
Ao2 \u003d 618610 / (100 * 15.5 * 15.5 * 147) \u003d 0.175; n (o1) \u003d 0.9; e (o1) \u003d 0.2;
Fo1 \u003d 6186.1 / (0.925 * 0.175 * 36000000) \u003d 10.6 sq. Cm;
Fo2 \u003d 6186.1 / (0.9 * 0.155 * 36000000) \u003d 12.3 sq. Cm.
according to the table, we take reinforcement 18 w. \u003d 200 * 200 F \u003d 12.7 sq. cm.
Further on the article "Tables for calculating plates hinged along the contour":
the calculation of the deflection was made for option "a"
f \u003d -k * q * l ^ 4 / (E * h ^ 3)
q \u003d 4 * q / l \u003d 4 * 500/7 \u003d 286kg / m
f \u003d 0.0443 * 286 * 7 ^ 4/30 * 10 ^ -3 * 102000 * 0.2 ^ 3 \u003d 1242.7 cm
f \u003d 1242.7 cm is a lot, I decided to calculate according to the article "Determination of the deflection of reinforced concrete beams":
f \u003d k * 5 * q * l ^ 4/384 * E * I
k \u003d 0.86
q \u003d q (auto) + q (gen.) \u003d 286 + 1200 \u003d 1486 kg * m
W \u003d q * l / 8 * Rb \u003d 14.86 * 700 ^ 2/8 * 147 \u003d 6191.7 cm3
y2 \u003d (3 * W / 2 * b) ^ 0.5 \u003d (3 * 6191.7 / 2 * 100) ^ 0.5 \u003d 9.64
y ^ 3 \u003d 3 * As * (ho-y) ^ 2 * Es / b * Eb
y \u003d 9.4 cm
y (p) \u003d y- (y2-y) \u003d 9.4- (9.64-9.4) \u003d 9.16cm
I \u003d 2 * b * y (p) ^ 3/3 \u003d 2 * 100 * 9.16 ^ 3/3 \u003d 51238.4 cm4
f \u003d 0.86 * 5 * 14.86 * 700 ^ 4/384 * 300000 * 51238.4 \u003d 2.6 cm
Tell me if I counted correctly and if there are any errors in the translation of the unit of measurement. ?

08-07-2015: Dr. Lom

With the selection of the cross-section of the reinforcement, everything seems to be correct for you. But this is so, by eye, I have already said that I do not check the accuracy of the calculations. But when determining the deflection, especially using the coefficient, you made several mistakes (however, this is a calculation for group 2 of limit states and there is nothing wrong with that). So when determining the deflection, firstly, the full value of the load should be taken. At the same time, you have not separately determined the value of the equivalent distributed load from cars, you will have more, somewhere 350-400 kg / m, and not 43 for option 1 (in the second version, you seem to have determined the load from cars more accurately). Further, the tabular value of the modulus of elasticity for concrete is 30x10 ^ 8 kg / m ^ 2, if you really count in meters, or 300,000 kg / cm ^ 2 when calculating in centimeters (you were not mistaken in this calculation). And what is this number - 102,000 - I did not understand at all. In general, the whole calculation looks more or less plausible.

29-10-2015: Albert

Hello! Great site. I would like to clarify the reactions of the supports. Your "In option b, the reaction of the left support is 250 + 500x350 / 400 \u003d 687.5 kg." The result is correct, but the numerator contains 250. What is this? Reaction of the left support: (500 * 350 + 500 * 200) / 400 \u003d 687.5. I'm wrong?

29-10-2015: Dr. Lom

That's right, I just did not remember that with a concentrated load applied in the middle of the span, the reactions are equal to each other and make up half of the applied concentrated load (this is like the basics of resistance, but perhaps this point should not have been lazy and described in more detail that, however, I am doing now). Thus, the support reaction from one wheel is 500/2 \u003d 250 kg and it is necessary to determine only the reaction from the second wheel, and then add the obtained data.
However, as I said, your equation writing is more correct, although it requires more mathematical operations.

It would be wrong to leave an earthen or unpaved floor in the garage, since the subgrade is not very strong and, as a result of constant loads and influences, will sag and deform over time. In addition, the soil easily absorbs various toxic substances and gasoline, so it will not be possible to get rid of the unpleasant odor in the box. Another thing is a wooden floor in a garage, this wear-resistant, attractive and durable coating will serve you for many years. Unlike a concrete floor, a wood covering retains heat better in a room, does not generate dust and looks more attractive.

Garage flooring requirements

Before making a wooden floor in the garage with your own hands, you need to study the requirements for such a coating:

Wood surface must be resistant to mechanical damage, so it is better to choose solid wood boards.
The flooring must withstand well the effects of aggressive chemicals. For this, the wooden floor is treated with special impregnations, and also covered with protective compounds.
The plank floor must be fireproof. To protect against fire, the wood must be impregnated with fire retardants.
The surface must be moisture resistant. For this purpose, the boards can be coated with oil or varnish, but it is worth remembering that when moving across the floor, your feet should not slip.

Important! When choosing the material and method of flooring, it is important to give preference to inexpensive and reliable structures, take into account the ease of installation and the duration of operation.

How to choose wood for your garage floor?

Before making the floor in the garage from planks, you need to choose the right wood for this room. Laying walnut and mahogany boards under conditions of increased loads, humidity and exposure to aggressive substances is impractical.

Give preference to conifers because they have high wear resistance and strength. The best way to do your garage floor is oak. Due to its high strength and hardness, this breed will last for more than one decade.

When choosing wood, consider the following rules:

to avoid deformation of the floor covering in the garage, use only well-dried wood (overdried or damp boards are not suitable);
for the device of the frame from the lag, choose only whole bars without cracks and other defects;
after calculating the amount of wood, always take a 15 percent stock.

How to treat wood before laying?

To protect the wooden floor in the garage on the ground from putrefaction and damage by insects, all wood elements are treated with antiseptics. Products need to be primed before laying. The primer is applied in several layers. All products dry well after applying impregnation.

Sometimes antiseptics are applied only from the wrong side of the board. Sodium fluoride and borate-based mixtures are suitable for these purposes. An odorless white powder is diluted in water. After preparation and application, the composition does not change the color of the material, does not reduce its strength and protects metal structural elements from corrosion.

Advice! To protect against moisture, the bars are coated with water-repellent, deep-penetrating solvent-based impregnations. They create a protective thick film. Oil analogues are allowed to be used for processing only absolutely dry wood.

The floor in the garage made of planks must be protected from fire. For this, the wood is treated with fire retardants. These are special substances that increase the fire resistance of the material. Fire retardants are applied to logs and boards prior to installation. It is better to use formulations based on copper hydroxide.

Step-by-step installation technology

If you make a wooden floor in the garage with your own hands, then the best option is to arrange a wooden structure along the logs. This will distribute the load evenly over the entire deck and transfer it to the ground. In addition, if insulation is laid between the lags, then the room can be additionally protected from the cold. Structures on logs allow you to hide base defects. Various engineering communications are laid in the space under the floor.

Note! Log floors are not suitable for low garages, since such a structure raises the floor level by 6-10 cm. In this case, the wooden floor in the garage is made on a concrete base.

Laying a wooden floor on a concrete base

The concrete base does not need any special preparation, therefore, work on laying the plank floor begins at any time.
At the same time, they adhere to the following recommendations:

for laying, boards with a moisture content of no more than 10% are used;
preliminarily arrange a frame made of 50x50 mm bars, which are installed with a step of 400-500 mm;
lighthouse bars are laid first with a step of 2 m;
for fixing to a concrete base, dowels are used, which are fixed with a step of 500 mm;
then intermediate bars are laid and also fastened to the base with dowels;
then proceed to the installation of the flooring;
the boards are laid out perpendicular to the frame bars and fastened to them with nails or self-tapping screws.

If the concrete base is sufficiently flat and does not have serious defects, then the plank flooring is performed without using a frame made of bars. Thickened floorboards are suitable for installation. Before use, they are impregnated with linseed oil to protect against moisture and painted. After drying, proceed to the installation of the plank floor. Planks are laid along the entire length of the room and fixed to the concrete base with nails or self-tapping screws.

Laying a wooden floor on the ground

It is somewhat more difficult to install a wooden floor on a subgrade. First, the base is carefully prepared, and then the floor is laid in several stages:

The surface of the ground in the garage is leveled with a hoe or rake.
Next, sand and gravel backfill is performed. In this case, first a layer of sand with a height of 15 cm is poured, then an interlayer of expanded clay or gravel of the same height follows. If desired, the thickness of the gravel layer can be reduced to 10 centimeters.
Then the sand and gravel pad is spilled with water and tamped well. The best way to do this is to use an electric rammer (hand roller, vibratory plate or hand rammer).
We lay the waterproofing material over the entire surface and put it on the walls to a height of 10 cm. The joints of the material are glued together with mastic or tape.
Let's start installing the lag. For this, bars with a section of 100x100 mm are suitable. First, we install the timber around the perimeter of the room. It will distribute the load from the car and the weight of the entire flooring. At the corners, we fix the lumber with metal corners to each other. Using a level, we check the horizontal position of the bars. If required, we put cut boards or plywood under the elements.
With the ends to the entrance to the garage, we also install logs with a section of 100x100 mm. The step between them is no more than half a meter. To fix them to the lighthouse beam along the perimeter of the room, we use metal L-shaped products or self-tapping screws.
Pour expanded clay or sand into the resulting voids between the logs to insulate the floor of the room.
After that, we start laying the floorboards. They are placed across the log and attached to them with self-tapping screws at two points. To make the floorboards fit snugly to the logs, holes are drilled in them for fasteners. To do this, use a drill, the diameter of which is 1 mm less than the diameter of the screw.

Advice! Before laying, strips of roofing material are attached to the edges of each board using a stapler to better isolate the room and reduce cracks.

When installing a wooden floor on the ground, brick or concrete posts can be used as a support. This method is suitable for garages where the dirt floor is well below ground level. Thanks to the arrangement of the posts, they do without a sand and gravel layer and waterproofing. A distance of 800 mm is made between the rows of columns, and the pitch of the columns in one row is 300 mm.

Attention! To prevent the floor in the garage from sagging under the weight of the car, boards with a thickness of at least 5-6 cm are taken for its device. The floorboards must be covered with linseed oil and painted.

How to cover the wood surface after installation?

After assembling the structure, the question arises, how to cover the wooden floor in the garage? It is not worth leaving the boards without a finishing protective coating, since this way the surface will not be protected from mechanical stress, absorption of fuels and lubricants and moisture.

The following compounds are used to protect the floor:

Covering the floor with varnish you get a durable, transparent and moisture resistant coating. For the garage, wear-resistant polyurethane-based varnishes are ideal. Such coatings protect against premature decay of boards, do not crack, withstand temperature and humidity changes, and do not lose their original qualities during operation.
Painting the floor with paints increases the aesthetic appeal of the coating and protects it from short-term exposure to moisture. For boxing, organic solvent-based paints are suitable.

Some box owners do not pay much attention to the flooring in the garage, preferring to leave compacted soil or clay. This approach will save you from the hassle associated with arranging the coating and its repair. However, the earthen floor is not particularly durable, therefore it is easily deformed under the influence of constant loads. It also absorbs gasoline and other substances, the smell of which is very difficult to remove from the box.

The best option for a garage is a concrete or timber floor. Such coatings are characterized by high mechanical strength, wear resistance and attractive appearance. Let's take a closer look at the creation of wooden floors, since they look more interesting and have the ability to retain heat, in contrast to the concrete surface, which almost always remains cold.

Before proceeding directly to the arrangement of the flooring, it is necessary to choose the right wood for its creation. It is definitely worth giving up the idea of \u200b\u200busing mahogany and walnut in boxing. A good option is conifers, which are excellent in strength and wear resistance. But it is best to opt for oak, since oak flooring will last much longer than coatings from other woods.

When choosing a material, you must adhere to a few simple rules.

Before arranging the floor, the wood must be treated with fire retardants - agents to increase the fire resistance of the material, as well as substances that prevent the occurrence of putrefactive processes.

Flame retardants increase the fire resistance of wood

Installation of a wooden floor in the garage

As a rule, in car boxes, floor structures are installed on logs, which allow evenly distributing the load over the entire flooring. With the help of floors on logs, you can hide some defects in the base, as well as communication systems, such as an electric cable. However, such a construction "raises" the floor by 6-10 cm, so it is not quite suitable for very low garages. The technology for installing a wooden floor in a garage depends on the existing base, which can be concrete or unpaved.

Installing a wooden floor on a concrete base

The concrete base does not need preliminary preparation, so you can immediately proceed directly to the installation of the wooden floor. Experts give several basic recommendations for this process:

only material with a moisture content of no more than 10% can be laid;
the installation of the lag is done with a certain step distance, which often varies from 40 to 50 cm;
the first beacons are mounted on the concrete base, the step between which is approximately 2 m;
fixing the lag is carried out using dowels, the distance between them is 50 cm;
intermediate lags are laid in the same way as lighthouses. Only after their installation do they start laying the flooring.
floorboards are placed perpendicular to the logs and fixed with screws or nails.

In fact, in the presence of a concrete base, it is not at all necessary to opt for a lagged structure. If the subfloor does not differ in serious differences in height and does not have large-scale defects, then thick floorboards are quite suitable for arranging the coating. Before starting the installation, the blocks are treated with linseed oil and painted, after which they are laid on a clean concrete base. Laying is carried out along the entire length of the garage, the boards are fixed with screws or nails.

Even a person without professional training can cope with the installation of a wooden floor on a concrete base in a garage, the main thing is to strictly follow the recommendations of specialists and adhere to technology.

Installing a wooden floor on a subgrade

If the base in the garage is not concrete, but is ordinary soil, then the installation of a wooden floor becomes a somewhat more complicated process, which will require patience and a certain skill. In this case, the preparation of the base is necessary, and the installation itself is carried out in several stages:

The soil surface is leveled, for this you can use a rake, as well as an ordinary garden hoe.
A sand and gravel cushion is created: first there is a 3-4 cm layer of sand, then a gravel or expanded clay layer of the same thickness. In principle, the second layer can be somewhat thicker, since it is created from materials, the fraction of which is several times larger than the size of sand grains.
The laid sand and gravel cushion is watered and then compacted well. This can be done with hands and feet, although it will be much more effective to use a specialized device - an electric rammer (or a vibrating plate, a hand roller, a hand rammer).
Logs are mounted, which are wooden bars that hold the entire floor structure. Since the base is not durable and easily deformed, the logs are installed on pre-laid flat boards, and they must be thick enough so as not to bend during operation.
Grounds for laying logs on the ground (pits for posts, if necessary, are dug out before filling crushed stone and sand)

All used wood should be impregnated with special compounds to give the material better moisture resistance, because the fact that it is not resistant to moisture and is subject to putrefactive processes is no secret to anyone. It is better not to neglect this recommendation!

As a support for the future floor, it is not at all necessary to use only boards, they can be replaced with posts made of brick or concrete - they will perfectly cope with the task at hand. Such supports are mounted in rows, the distance between which is 80 cm.The step between the posts themselves should be 30 cm.

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Lags on the ground

Among other subtleties of installing a wooden floor on a ground base in a garage, the following points can be distinguished:

it is advisable to place the logs perpendicular to the movement of the vehicle, and the floorboards themselves - in the direction of movement. Compliance with this rule will help make the structure more durable, and the floor will become much stronger;
floorboards should have the same thickness - about 50-60 cm. Thinner blocks should not be taken, otherwise the floor will simply bend under the weight of the car and quickly fail;
before installing the boards, be sure to dry and cover with antifungal agents. Their reverse side, which will be in contact with the sand and gravel bed, must be treated with waterproofing compounds.

After arranging wooden flooring, many garage owners leave it in its original form, which is very in vain, because wood is a material that needs to be treated with care. The floor should be covered with linseed oil and painted, because this is the only way to protect the flooring from oil and gasoline stains, which are almost impossible to remove.

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Installation, part 1

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Installation, part 2

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Installation, part 3

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Installation, part 4

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Installation, part 5

Chipboard and plywood floor in the garage

There is another way to create a wooden garage floor, which involves using plywood or chipboard. These materials will serve as the basis for the leveling layer, the thicker it turns out, the larger the logs will be laid. Having finished with the installation of beacons, you can proceed to the installation of the lags, fixing them on the base with glue or self-tapping screws.

Plywood pieces treated with glue are placed in the fixation points. On top of the resulting mesh, sheet material is laid, which levels the floor. It is attached to the logs with self-tapping screws, about 9 pieces come out on 1 sheet. A moisture-proof film is laid on the leveling layer, and then insulation plates. All this is covered with floor boards. Thus, the floor in the garage is perfectly flat and very durable.

Making a decision to create a wooden floor covering in your car box is not an obstacle to arranging a viewing pit. It can be organized in several stages:

A pit of the required depth is created, the bottom of which is laid out flat with laid bricks placed perpendicular to the wall surfaces.
The walls of the inspection pit are lined with brick, which is located with an edge.
The space between the brickwork and the ground is filled with concrete, this is done as the height of the walls grows.
Brick laying is carried out until it reaches the log level. Thus, the blocks will partially lie on the masonry. In the remaining space, a frame is mounted into which the boards covering the pit are placed.
Metal corner, laid on the walls of the inspection pit

It is quite simple to equip a viewing hole in a garage with a wooden floor, you just need to make a little effort and follow the recommendations received.

Video - Inspection pit in a garage with a wooden floor

Features of a wooden floor in a garage

The wooden floor in the garage is an environmentally friendly coating, which, if properly installed and maintained, will delight the owner of the box for more than one year. However, the decision to create a floor of wood in the garage cannot be called unequivocally correct, in any case, this is what some motorists believe, who are categorically against the use of this material. An analysis of the pros and cons of this coverage will help you make the right decision.

The advantages of choosing wood for decorating a floor in a garage include the following factors:

wood has a long service life, especially after impregnation with protective agents. Wooden floors can serve for about 10 years without deforming or collapsing;
if part of the covering has been damaged, then it can be relatively easily replaced without dismantling the entire flooring;
wood is hygroscopic, that is, it absorbs moisture from the air, which helps to maintain optimal moisture levels in the garage, and this has a beneficial effect on the condition of the vehicle;
a wooden floor, in contrast to a concrete floor, retains heat well, so working on it is safer for health. Wood as a floor covering is often chosen by people who independently repair their car;
in terms of strength, a thick floorboard is not inferior to concrete screeds, therefore it can be used even in boxes for small trucks;
dust forms on the concrete floor, this will not be a problem with a wooden floor.

Wooden floors in the garage also have their disadvantages, which include the ability to absorb odors, susceptibility to putrefactive processes, and low fire resistance. However, all these disadvantages can be easily leveled by using special impregnations that make the performance of wood much better.

Wooden floor after staining

To summarize, it should be noted that wooden flooring in the garage is a rather controversial solution, which has its own advantages and disadvantages. Whether or not to give preference to it depends on the needs of the car owner. If he often has to work in a box, then it is better to opt for wood rather than risk his health, lying on a cold concrete screed. And to preserve the appearance of the coating, you can use special rubber strips or roofing felt strips, along which the car will leave and enter.

Good day. Can you tell me what weight the edged board can withstand, depending on the thickness per 1 m2 of the prefabricated board made of boards or the running meter of the board when loaded from above? Are there any snips on this information?

Alexey, Perm.

Hello Alexey from Perm!

For example, no scientific luminary can explain why a funnel forms when water is drained through a hole at the bottom of the bath? How many copies around this effect were broken, and there is no reliable explanation.

I am not so strong in theoretical physical and mathematical calculations to give the right answer to the mountain.

In my opinion, the value of the load per square meter of a board made of edged boards can reach several tens of tons.

If we consider the physical meaning of this problem, then with incomparably different densities of the base on which the shield of a wooden board lies (for example, under the shield there is a perfectly flat surface of a concrete monolith or a steel sheet 20-30 millimeters thick), evenly distributed on each square millimeter of the shield load (for example, cast concrete cubes with an edge size of 1 meter stacked strictly vertically on top of each other), the weight can reach from several tons to twenty to thirty tons.

And the thickness of the board plays an indirect role here. This is a constant, not dynamic load. With the latter, the breaking loads can be several orders of magnitude lower.

That is, having applied a sufficient maximum value to the load on the shield, when it reaches, say, more than thirty tons, we can observe the effect of wood crushing. And if after that the load is removed, the wood will be "flattened".

I base myself on the visual effects of seeing wooden beams embedded (walled up) into the walls and towers of medieval fortresses and monasteries. Above these beams, there was a masonry of several tens of meters high, therefore, the weight on the beams approximately corresponded to tens of tons.

Of course, the type of wood and the moisture content of the wood play an important role. It is one thing if the wood of hornbeam, ash, maple and quite another - aspen or pine needles.

Wood behaves completely differently under different types of loads, and they can be directed both along the fibers and across.

As for the cantilever arrangement of a wooden board or edged board, here are completely different principles. That is, if you have an edged board embedded in the thickness of the wall so that about a meter of it is inside the wall and it protrudes a meter from the wall, and you apply an ever-increasing load to the end of the protruding board. When the maximum load is reached, the board will break, as a rule, at the end of the wall surface.

Elementary theoretical mechanics plus strength of materials. There is a pinched beam, a shoulder, a point of force application, a moment of force is formed. The larger the shoulder, the less force can be applied to avoid kinking.

And here the section of the edged board is of decisive importance. The larger it is, the stronger the beam. If the board is installed flat, then it can withstand less breaking load. If the board is installed on the edge, then the breaking load can reach significantly higher parameters. Therefore, in house structures, edged boards are almost always installed on the edge (floor logs, beams, crossbars, rafters).

In addition, it is not only this that is important, but also the quality of the wood, the presence of knots, delamination, cracks, twisting and other defects in it. The use of the central parts of the trunk, middle and upper parts of it is undesirable. Dry wood, Krasnodreva. The butt part is preferable, timber harvesting during the period of minimal sap flow (with the exception of aspen), and some other factors.

Therefore, taking into account all that has been said above, I cannot give you detailed calculations at what maximum stress values \u200b\u200bin wood its ultimate strength comes.

If you are still interested in this topic, then you can look in more detail on the Internet in the sections on the strength of wood under static loads and in relation to your version. SNiP II-25-80 is what interests you. / Although I will say right away that it will not be easy to understand the materials /.

Personally, we in our team adhere more to intuition, and do not use reference data. And so, in a worker-peasant way, the more powerful the section of the board, the more it can withstand the load.

I answered as best I could, who will explain it more easily, I will be grateful.

Ask a question to Semyonich (author of materials)

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A wooden garage floor is not the best floor covering. The tree is capable of rapidly breaking down and absorbing oils and other technical fluids. The wood crumbles and shrinks from excess moisture. This floor is not fire safe. You can make a wooden floor in the garage with your own hands, but this coating should be considered as temporary. Its installation does not require large investments, it will last 5-10 years.

Required tools

How to make a wooden garage floor? For its installation, you need to prepare materials and tools:

sawing board;
hammer;
nail puller;
stapler;
mount;
screwdriver;
hacksaw;
nails or dowels and screws;
grinder;
measurement tool;
mounting thread;
drying oil;
oil paint;
antiseptic;
paint brush;
roller.

How to make a wooden floor

A garage is a storage facility for a car. To support its weight, you need to have a solid foundation. It can be organized in the following ways:

build a pillow of sand and gravel and fill it with concrete;
install brick posts on the ground.

The concrete pad case is common. Boards with a thickness of 25 mm or more are laid on the finished base. It is good if the boards are about 50 mm thick. Then the logs can be laid with a wider pitch. Logs are made of 100x100 mm timber. All wooden parts must be well treated with antiseptics and dried. Work can be done in the following order:

Waterproofing is laid on concrete.
Lags are installed.
The floor is insulated.
Boards are mounted.

The waterproofing layer is made of roofing material, PVC film. New materials from membrane films can be used. Cloths of film or roofing material are laid with an overlap, the joints are glued with adhesive tape with water-repellent properties.

The logs are installed on a concrete base in increments of approximately 40 cm. The evenness of the laying is controlled by the level. The logs are attached to concrete with dowels. Insulation material is laid inside the frame. It can be polystyrene, mineral wool, expanded clay. From above, the insulation is closed with a layer of film.

Boards should be laid end to end, without gaps. The floorboards are attached to the joists with self-tapping screws. You can use nails. Planks should be placed in the direction of the vehicle - this way they will last longer. Thick plywood is allowed instead of boards.

In the absence of a concrete base, brick posts are installed under the logs. For their manufacture, an ordinary red building brick is taken. The size of the columns is 25x25 cm. The height can be different. The soil for the posts is specially prepared. This is done like this:

the surface is leveled;
poured with water;
columns are installed.

Clean river sand is poured onto the leveled surface. The layer thickness is 4 cm. A 3 cm thick layer of gravel or expanded clay is laid on top of it. Both layers are thoroughly watered and rammed. Brick posts are placed in rows in those places where the lag is planned to be installed. The distance between the supports is approximately 80 cm, the row spacing is 30 cm. Insulation of roofing material and logs is laid on top of the posts. Then you can insulate the floor and put boards. In the future, the boards can be painted.

For a garage floor, you need to choose a board not only in thickness. Better to make the floor from coniferous wood planks. It can be pine, spruce or larch. Oak is suitable for hardwood. But this pleasure is very expensive. All material should be free from cracks and other defects. Nails are hammered into the board 3 mm from the surface. The holes are covered and painted over.

The use of screws and self-tapping screws is a more reliable method, but also more laborious. For each fastener, you need to drill a hole in the board and chamfer it. A gap of about 1.5 cm must be left between the walls and the edges of the boards.In the future, it will be closed with a plinth.

This gap is needed to compensate for the thermal expansion of the flooring. To obtain a perfectly flat surface, you can grind the finished floor with a grinder. On this, the device of the wooden floor in the garage can be completed.