Diy two-color decorative plaster. Decorative plaster - textured coating with minimal investment

Using modern finishing materials and technologies in the renovation process, you can create a unique design and embody any original ideas. At the same time, it is not necessary to spend money on the purchase of expensive materials and to attract professional builders. One of the available options for how to make side surfaces and give them an interesting texture is to plaster them, but with the help of putty. Such decorative plaster looks great in any room and allows you to implement various design ideas.

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Decorative plaster from putty - coating advantages

The plaster is intended for rough wall decoration and is a coarse, coarse-grained material. Putty, on the other hand, is used for the final leveling of the surface and is available in two types:

Starting lineups. Designed to hide cracks, scratches and other minor surface defects.
Finishing mixtures. They make the wall absolutely smooth and prepare it for further painting and wallpapering.

Decorative plaster can be made from a regular finishing putty. The coating looks very impressive and perfectly masks all roughness. It is easy to make it with your own hands, which allows you to do without the involvement of specialists and save a lot of money.

In addition to the low cost, the advantages of using this finishing method are:

Original texture. The graceful reliefs of the surface to be decorated are perfect for creating a unique design.
High adhesion and plasticity of the material, facilitating its application and repair work.
Long service life, during which aesthetic and performance characteristics are maintained.
Additional noise and heat insulation.
The absence of harmful toxic substances, which makes the putty mixtures the most environmentally friendly, safe finishing materials.
A wide range of stylistic solutions.

Having familiarized yourself with the basic rules, you can create unique interiors on your own. They use a chaotic application of colored streaks or spots, make an arbitrary drawing or patterns, giving the wall an unusual embossed texture or painting it in the desired shade.

Preparatory work - highlights

With patience, diligence and applying your imagination, using putty, ordinary walls can be turned into a work of art. The necessary materials and tools are purchased at hardware stores. To give the surface a certain texture, use special rollers coated in the form of stripes, dots, and an arbitrary pattern. But using the means at hand, it is easy to make a textured roller yourself.

For example, removing the worn-out coating from the old tool and installing foam rubber with large pores in its place. You can also make holes in it, arranging them in a chaotic order. An equally interesting result is obtained when using ordinary objects - sponges, brushes, polyethylene.

Thorough preparation of the walls is an indispensable condition for the long-term use of decorative plaster. It is not necessary to bring the surfaces to perfect condition, since the putty skillfully hides small flaws. To eliminate significant defects, a leveling layer of gypsum putty or sand-cement mixture is first applied.

Gypsum mortars are modern materials, so they are easy to work with, but they are not suitable for rooms with high humidity. In such cases, preference is given to cement mixtures.

Before applying decorative plaster, you need to prepare the walls, for this:

They remove various dirt, old finishing materials - wallpaper, paint or plaster.
A surface prone to cracking is reinforced with a mesh and coated with a deep penetration primer.
To improve the quality of further finishing, a starting layer of putty is applied and left to dry.
After that, to improve the adhesion of the adjoining layers, the walls are re-treated with a primer.

Before proceeding with the application of decorative plaster, it is necessary to choose one of the methods of work and prepare the appropriate tool and material. The simplest mixture is easy to make from putty and grout. Then, combining them in containers in a 1: 1 ratio and stirring all the time, they begin to gradually add cold water until the solution becomes homogeneous, thick enough.

A properly prepared compound should adhere to the surface of the instrument and not drip.

Application to the wall is carried out in a thin layer of no more than a centimeter. And letting the mixture stand so that it grasps a little, they begin to make the patterns. There are several ways to make a textured drawing using:

roller;
notched trowel;
ready-made stencils;
brush, trowel, other improvised devices.

Without proper preparation, it is difficult to create complex textures or patterns on your own in order to give the plaster an effective and original look. But simple reliefs will be within the power of everyone.

Venetian decorative plaster

Classic Venetian plaster, imitating precious stones of natural origin, is made from ordinary putty. After decorating the walls with it in the style of the Middle Ages, they look unusually beautiful. The best effect is obtained if Venetian plaster is used on perfectly flat, clean and dry surfaces.

To prepare the mixture, you need sand from natural stones (usually they take quartz, malachite, marble), slaked lime and dyes. The solution can be made independently or you can take it completely ready-made in a package. Then, following the manufacturer's instructions, it remains to add the required volume of water and stir with a construction mixer. The resulting composition should resemble sour cream in consistency.

Putty is applied in small portions with a metal spatula, making strokes with it. They can be sweeping or small, depending on the pattern being created or the imitation of a certain material. After finishing the first layer, it is left for a while so that it dries well. Only then, using a rubber soft spatula, the next layer is applied and again allowed to dry.

Then they start grinding with a fine sandpaper or mesh. This is the most demanding job, since it is required to smooth out sharp protrusions very carefully, but not damage the structure. The next stage is painting. To obtain the desired effect, the paint is applied in layers, and the saturation of their tone should differ from the previous ones. At the end, the walls can be covered with acrylic lacquer, add a gilding effect, or leave everything unchanged.

Using a similar Venetian plastering technique, walls can be decorated in the Snowball style. The difference lies in the choice of contrasting shades. In this case, the first layer is put in a darker one. And only then, with the help of light colors or whites (to simulate snowfall), are the upper layers sprayed.

Creation of unique patterns

Textured decorative plaster looks impressive and can decorate the walls of any room. It is made using conventional putty mixtures. After being applied to the surface, they are processed with a roller covered with foam rubber, or with the help of special textured blanks.

But if you show imagination and make large holes in the foam rubber or tie it with a steel mesh, a clothesline, a plastic bag, you can get your own unique pattern. The direction of movement is chosen at the discretion.

Decorating with a spatula

The creation of textured surfaces on the walls with a spatula is a creative process. Then, using small or wide strokes, arched or wavy movements to apply the solution, you can create a unique pattern. For example, decorative trim that imitates fish scales looks great on a section of the wall. The thickness of the layer and the schematic arrangement of the lines are selected individually.

First, putty is applied to the prepared section of the wall with a layer of 3-5 mm. To make the image more embossed, the thickness can be increased. Further, taking a spatula up to 10 cm wide, they begin to systematically apply the pattern, moving from one corner of the area to be formed to the opposite.

Pressing lightly on the tool, they form indentations, trying to give them a checkerboard or arbitrary order on the diagonal. In case of incorrect drawing of lines, the putty is gently smoothed out and the relief is recreated. After obtaining the desired result, the surface is left to dry completely. Then they are painted in any shades.

Imitation silk

To get a pattern that imitates compressed silk, you need to take plastic wrap. The work algorithm is as follows:

The putty is applied in an even layer about 2 mm thick over the entire surface.
Immediately cover with foil in random order. The more folds, the more interesting the texture.
If necessary, folds are additionally tightened and slightly twisted, thereby provoking the formation of new patterns.
After 12 hours, the film is removed and the walls are allowed to dry completely.
After that, the surface is lightly smoothed, smoothing out the protruding areas and removing the break off parts.

The next stage is painting. The paint is applied with a roller or sponge. To remove some of the color, use a damp sponge, and rub its accumulation with a clean cloth put on a spatula. After that, the coating is allowed to dry and the top is covered with mother-of-pearl paint to give the effect of "silk".

Other ways to decorate

Artistic plastering can be done with a trowel. As in the previous case, a working layer is applied, and then, using a tool, the solution is gradually distributed from above. Arbitrary movements of the trowel will help to give the surface an unusual look. It is also applied in different places, pressing slightly.

A very popular wood beetle finish resembling insect-eaten wood is obtained as follows. The composition applied to the surface is left for a while until it begins to set. Further, using a wooden or plastic instrument and lightly pressing on the base, they begin to perform horizontal, vertical, circular movements. As a result, longitudinal grooves are formed, similar to wormholes.

One of the available ways to decorate walls and get an original grain pattern is to use a sponge. To do this, it is enough, carrying out a small pressure, to walk it over the entire surface.

Decorating in the "Shading" style is performed with a metal or plastic comb, as if "combing" freshly applied plaster. The movements are completely arbitrary. Having allowed the putty to dry, they pass over it with a regular rag and, along the way, carrying out a light grout, remove small protruding particles.

With certain skills and good imagination, it will not be difficult to create any patterns and turn ordinary putty into decorative plaster. Of course, to implement ambitious projects, you will need the help of specialists, but in most cases, after watching a master class, photo and video instructions, you can cope with any difficulties on your own. To begin with, the technique should be worked out on an inconspicuous area and only then tackle the main decor.

Decorative plastering solutions, or decorative textured coatings, do not require further processing or surface finishing. They can be applied to walls and partitions made of any material - be it brick, concrete, drywall, wood or ordinary plaster. But the plaster hardens very quickly, so it is quite difficult to carry out finishing work with it on a large surface.

In addition, the use of decorative plaster for wall decoration requires a thorough preparation of the surface (treatment with a primer, putty, grouting materials).

Usually decorative plaster is available in the form of a dry or ready-to-use thick mixture. The basis of such materials includes a polymer binder, a filler (marble or granite chips, sand, lime), on which the texture of the future coating depends, as well as a liquid base - water.

Dry plaster in packages

The composition of decorative plaster often includes other additives that provide additional properties (different surface structure, protective shockproof properties).

There are also special, separately sold additives for giving decorative plaster of one color or another.

Plaster with colored additives

If the coating is made in the form of a dry mix, it must be diluted with water in the correct proportion. The plaster is applied quickly enough: first with a brush, and then with a spatula or with another tool, or with a special tool right away (which one should be indicated in the instructions for using decorative plaster). Such a tool can be a roller, brush, trowel, trowel.

Stretch plaster is always applied with a trowel, from bottom to top. Such plaster is characterized by a denser grain structure. Outwardly, it is very different from ordinary plasters.

The use of decorative plaster offers many possibilities. For example, with the help of various molding tools, you can additionally create different types of texture.

Plaster consumption is measured in kilograms per square meter of surface and usually ranges from 1.5 to 3 kg.

Decorative synthetic plaster is also used for finishing both interior walls and facades. Depending on the grain size and the direction of grouting such plaster, you can create an individual structure of the walls of the interior. This type of plaster is usually used as a topcoat, but can be additionally covered with paint.

Decorative plaster in the room

Trowelable mineral plaster is characterized by a high content of natural grains, does not contain artificial resin. Differs in high ability to pass water vapor. Used for outdoor and indoor use.

Before covering the walls with decorative plaster, apply a preparatory layer of ordinary plaster on the lighthouses, consisting of a spray and a primer. The surface of the preparatory layer is scratched, roughening it for better adhesion to the decorative layer. On a well-aged preparatory layer, a cover is applied from a decorative solution. Moreover, it can consist of two, three or more layers.

First, a spray from a decorative solution is applied to the preparatory layer, then a layer or layers of soil and, if required, a cover from the same solution.

Creating decorative plaster from ordinary

Decorative plaster "Wave"

A variety of textures for the future color can be "depicted" on ordinary plaster. For example, “waves” look great on lime-sand plaster.

To reproduce them on the surface, on fresh or previously rubbed plaster, incised and moistened with water, apply a second layer of mortar in straight or curved stripes and smooth it with a spatula. Thus, a wavy surface is obtained.

Plaster "Wave"

Plaster "Traverin"

To create travertine (lime tuff) on the wall, a thin layer of colored mortar is applied to the prepared surface of the plaster by throws. After that, it is smoothed with a spatula or steel trowel. The result is embossed islands on a smooth worn background - the so-called decorative "stones".

Plaster "Traverin"

For the process of applying this type of joke, see the video:

Stone plaster

To create the texture "under the boulders", a plastic colored solution is applied to the ground, quickly smoothed with a scraper and then the surface is plowed with a hard hair or bristle brush. When trimming, the brush should be kept strictly perpendicular to the surface. A hard brush is needed because only it gives clear, sharply defined "boulders".

Stone plaster

Dune plaster

Under the dunes, the colored solution is also first leveled with a scraper, and then a grater is attached with slight pressure and immediately torn off. The solution adheres to the grater and, together with it, is pulled away from the surface, which is why roughness forms on the surface. Outwardly, these roughnesses are very similar to sand dunes. If you want the dunes to be wavy, the grater can be torn off not straight, but by slightly sliding it to the side. To obtain the texture of small dunes, the solution is first allowed to grasp a little. After that, it is lightly rubbed, put a grater to the surface and tear it off.

Dune plaster

Watch how to apply Dune to your wall in a short video:

Furrow plaster

The furrow-like texture is obtained using a bevel with semicircular teeth, which is made of steel strip or wood. It is up to 30 mm wide with grooves between the teeth 10-15 mm. The teeth of the chamfer are sharpened in one direction. An inactive solution is applied to the prepared soil, quickly leveled with a trowel, then take the rule in the left hand and apply it to the solution that has not yet set. Now you need to put the bevel on the rule with your right hand and guide it with the sharpened side of the teeth forward at an angle of 45 ° to the surface. In this way, even furrows are obtained. Their size and shape, naturally, depend on the shape of the teeth of the beetle.

Furrow plaster

Plaster "under a fur coat"

By spraying, throwing the solution through a mesh, shaking off the solution from a broom or brush.

Ways of applying plaster "under a fur coat"

Spraying through the mesh and from a broom is performed with any solution (even with a large aggregate). Only fine aggregate mortar is suitable for brushing. To get a dense spray without a gap, repeat it several times until there are no places uncovered with a solution on the surface. You can also use a spray attachment (it looks like a fan).

Spray application of plaster under a fur coat

Spray on the mesh is performed as follows. Stretch a mesh with cells from 2.5 to 10 mm on a wooden frame measuring 100 x 100 or 100 x 50 cm (the specific size depends on the size of the texture). Pull the wire diagonally from the back of the frame. It is necessary so that the mesh does not bulge and vibrate during operation. Attach a mesh to the wire, tie it. In order for the frame to be always at the same distance from the wall, nail strips 10-25 cm thick to it.

Spraying plaster "under a fur coat" through the mesh

The frame is placed on the surface of the soil and the mortar is thrown through the grid with a spatula from the falcon. Passing through the mesh, the solution remains on the surface in the form of tubercles. To get the same texture, try to apply the solution with the same strength.

When sprinkling from a birch broom, hold it with your right hand, and with your left hand take a round stick with a diameter of 4-5 cm and a length of 50-60 cm. Put the solution on the broom and hit it on the stick, shaking it off to the wall surface. The size of the resulting texture will depend on the thickness of the broom rods, the thickness of the solution and the strength of shaking off. Stir the solution from time to time during operation so that it does not delaminate.

Spraying the plaster "under a fur coat" with a broom

For finer textures, spray with a brush. Better to use a stiff hair or (best option) bristle brush. The brush is held with the left hand and, dipping it into the solution half the height of the hair, is brought to the surface with the bristles up. Then it is carried out on the bristles with a stick or a plank (it is held in the right hand), and the solution from the brush flies off onto the surface to be plastered. A thick texture will remain on the wall, similar to the pile of a fur coat.

Brush for applying plaster "under a fur coat"

To get a texture similar to snow flakes, spray is performed with flakes of a creamy plastic solution. The wall will turn out to be especially effective if flakes of white mortar are applied to colored plaster. In this case, first, a colored solution is applied, leveled and rubbed, and then a spray is performed on it. You need to do this without waiting for the plaster to dry.

To create a texture with a sponge, a creamy solution is applied to the ground, quickly leveled and immediately applied with butt-end blows with a sponge. After that, a relief remains on the surface of the plaster, the appearance of which depends on the shape of the pores of the sponge. To prevent the solution from sticking to the sponge, it must be moistened in soapy water and squeezed slightly.

Instead of a sponge, you can use a relief roller

To obtain relief patterns on an uncured plastered surface, you can use special stamps or any convex objects: shells, dense leaves, branches, and the like. Pieces of stone, brick, multi-colored shards of glass, shells can simply be pressed into the still soft plaster. It will harden and hold the mosaic together.

A wide variety of objects can be used to emboss plaster.

Sgraffito plaster

Another way to decorate walls using plaster is called "sgraffito" (scratched out). This technique consists in scraping off thin layers of specially applied colored plaster. If there are several such color layers, the resulting drawing will be three-dimensional and multi-colored, reminiscent of a fresco.

Wall decoration using the "sgraffito" method

Now let's move on to considering the techniques for decaring walls using terrazite plaster. This type of plaster consists of a large amount of fluffy lime mixed with white cement, white sand, marble chips, glass, mica and other materials. The peculiarity of terrazite plaster is given by the addition of mica and anthracite fines (up to 10% of the volume of cement).

A kind of terrazzite plaster

Plaster shading

A shaded texture (straight or offset strokes) with irregularities of 2 to 5 mm is obtained from fine-grained mixtures using a freshly applied solution. The mortar (in the range from 1 to 6 hours after application) must be processed with a notch with nail combs or toothed cycles. The applied cement mixture can be treated with a Trojan or a scalpel. On the hardened solution, work begins no earlier than 6 days after its application.

Plaster "Rock"

The "rock-like" texture resembles a chipped stone, but it is made from a hardened solution with a large filler, forged with a chisel or tongue. The tongue is driven into the mortar, thereby knocking out pieces and leaving indentations that form a uniformly grainy surface. If the processing is carried out with a chisel or a scalpel, cutting off pieces of mortar, the surface will look like a torn or chipped natural stone.

Technology of application and texture of stone plaster

The surface of the stone plaster is divided into separate "stones" before the treatment begins. To do this, with the help of a delimited cord, the lines of rows of "stones" or rustic "seams" are punched, as well as straps and other rectilinear details. After that, they start finishing the plaster for one or another texture.

Texture "under a fur coat" perform with different tools. If you cut with bush hammers with large teeth, the result will be a coarse-grained texture, with fine teeth - a fine-grained one, and when forging with a tongue-and-groove, an especially coarse-grained texture will come out. Keep in mind: with large and long spikes of the bush hammer teeth, the texture is deeper and larger.

Under shading with grooves, the work is done with a bush hammer, only instead of teeth it should have blades. The depth of the grooves will be determined by the size of the teeth. The first forging is carried out along the line broken off by the cord, and the subsequent ones - parallel to it. To get the texture with the division of the entire surface into stripes, you need to use a Trojan or a gear.

Bouchard and the Trojan

Dune-like texture on stone plaster, perform with a chisel. Previously, the surface of the wall must be cleaned with steel brushes or scrubbed with bars. And then from a well-compacted and rubbed surface of the plaster, you need to cut off a thin layer so that small depressions are formed.

Chisel types

Under torn stone or roughly chipped sandstone texture make with dowels, chisels, scarpels. First, a solution is applied to the surface with a layer of 4-6 cm, it is compacted and the surface is divided into "stones". When the solution grasps, cut through or perform rustications, and then process the surface as needed to obtain texture. A chisel or tongue is driven into the applied hardened plaster and pieces of mortar are broken off in different places to form large irregularities. If you want to get a texture like hewn sandstone, chisel small pieces of plaster with a chisel.

Fur coat and ragged stone finish

Coarse-grained and fine-grained texture receive in two steps. First, a cement mortar is applied - in small or large casts, - then a mortar for stone plaster is prepared and applied in a layer up to 10 mm thick over the seized layer of soil. The top texture can be fine or coarse depending on the filler.

Venetian plaster application

For best results, the surface covered with Venetian plaster should be as smooth as possible, monochromatic (white) and non-absorbent. Do not apply plaster to wood and metal - over time, the coating will crack.

Venetian plaster

Venetian plaster tools

To prepare and cover the walls with Venetian plaster, you will need the following tools:

two brushes - maklovitsa and flutes,
roulette,
long ruler,
level,
pencil,
syringe dispenser,
measuring cups,
containers for mixing materials,
mixer,
ladder,
bucket with water,
abrasive paper (no. 120 and 220),
grinding float,
two stainless steel trowels, 250 and 200 mm wide,
wide and narrow forged polished stainless steel spatulas.

It is advisable to round off the working edges of the tools and polish with a fine-grained abrasive paper, completely removing scratches, burrs and other defects.

Make sure the substrate is thoroughly prepared before applying Venetian plaster. With insufficient quality preparation of the base, cracks may appear on the surface that cannot be repaired.

Stages of Venetian plaster application

The depth and transparency of the coating is achieved by a special application technique.

The master applies several thin layers of coating to the wall, consisting of randomly located spots of material. The combination of many such spots and their layers creates the illusion of the depth of the pattern of natural material. The number of layers varies from 2 to 10, but the total thickness hardly exceeds 1 mm. Each layer should be smoothed (pressed in) by hand with a spatula, trowel, or a trowel until a perfectly even, smooth and glossy surface is obtained. It takes almost an hour even for an experienced specialist to work with 1 m² of one layer.

The first layer is usually made of a material that contains finely ground marble chips. It is applied to the surface with a steel trowel or spatula in the same way as a putty. After 4-6 hours, covering, glazing layers can be applied to this layer, which will create the texture of the coating pattern.

Application of the first layer of plaster

If you want to get a matte finish, then the second and subsequent layers are made of the same material as the first. A glossy surface is obtained using a finely dispersed material mixed with a selected colorant.

Before starting work, place a small amount of material on the working surface of the long trowel with a spatula. Now start from any top corner. Proceed in the same way as for the finishing putty, applying the mixture in an even layer. Cover areas near the floor with a bottom-up movement. Press the trowel firmly against the wall, holding it at an angle of 10-15 ° to the surface. Make sure there are no gaps.

When the first layer is dry, proceed to applying the next one.

Stir the coating material first: add the dye to it (if you bought a “semi-finished product”) and mix everything thoroughly again.

Next, apply a small amount of material along the edge of the short trowel with a narrow spatula and spread it with random strokes using short arcuate strokes. Each movement should be approximately equal to the length of the trowel. If an overflow forms on the wall at the end of the movement, accelerate it in a straight motion at an angle to the overflow line. Alternate between the smearing and accelerating movements and freely change their length and direction. On the floor, apply in an arcuate motion, starting from the bottom. Finish when the second coat is about 0.7m x 0.7m.

Stage of applying Venetian plaster

Now smooth out the covering in this area with long strokes in any direction. Every 2-3 strokes, clean the trowel and dry it with a damp cloth. Increase the pressure force and inclination of the float plane to 20-25 °. The result should be an even thin layer.

After 10 minutes, start smoothing the coating with the edge of a wide (200 mm) trowel. The movements of the spatula from top to bottom should be slightly crisscross. As gloss appears (this occurs from heating and polymerization of the material), loosen the pressure on the spatula. Failure to do so can damage the resulting crust.

To completely gloss the surface, you need to smooth it with a clean trowel. At the same time, it is strongly pressed with both hands and held at an angle of 5-12 ° to the plane of the wall. When polishing the area near the floor, guide the trowel up and down and cross slightly.

The next stage in the application of Venetian plaster

When finished, proceed to applying the second layer to the next area, repeating all the steps of the operation in sequence.

The pressure on the trowel at the beginning and end of the movement is weakened (as when scraping). This allows you to change the thickness of the material layer. When smoothing and polishing, the trowel movements should cross the boundaries of adjacent areas. To obtain the desired texture, change the size of the trowel, the length of the strokes, the intervals between them, as well as the pressure on the tool.

Working in corners, openings, ledges and other difficult places, direct the smearing movements from the boundary line into the area. If necessary, use a spatula instead of a trowel.

Until the second coat is dry, proceed with the next coat in randomly spaced spots. In this case, the entire cycle of finishing is repeated in sections. Apply as many layers (different colors) as needed to achieve the desired result.

If you accidentally damage the surface, apply the first coat with a narrow trowel to and around the area. When it is dry, repeat the entire operation to apply the next layer.

You can use the premises after the end of all the work in a day, but it is better not to rush. The walls will dry completely in a week.

Venetian plaster

After all layers have dried, you can cover the walls with natural beeswax. It will enhance the shine of the coating and give the impression of an optical illusion. Waxing also adds moisture resistance to the coating. It is not necessary to apply wax to some of the plasters produced today: all the necessary components are already contained in the material.

Decorating walls with decorative plaster: 10 types of do-it-yourself textures

Long gone are the days of the total deficit generated by the Soviet era. After all, then decorating the walls in the room was an understandable and simple matter. Today, a wide variety of finishing materials have appeared:

the liquid wallpaper;
facing panels;
modern paints.

But decorative plaster is a real breakthrough in construction and repair technologies. This is absolutely not the kind of plaster that is put under the wallpaper, but a completely new independent material.

The excellent qualities of decorative plaster do not need any additional recommendations. Two rooms, even decorated by the same person, using the same materials and techniques, will never be the same. Each one is exclusive, because the pattern of plaster on the wall cannot be repeated. With its help, you can create interesting effects, you just need to master the necessary technique. Such a coating is very durable to all kinds of harmful influences. It is difficult to get dirty, but if it somehow happened, it is easy to wash it off.

The plaster is environmentally friendly, does not emit harmful chemical compounds.

In addition, it improves the soundproofing of the walls. In stores, such material is sold dry, it is made on the basis of binding materials. Crumbs, sand, stones or fibers with the addition of antiseptics, dyes, thickeners can be used as fillers. In this article, we will tell you how to make decorative plaster of walls with your own hands, what methods and materials exist for this, and also demonstrate photo and video instructions.

Conventionally, plaster is divided into:

interior.

Facade plaster is much more resistant to aggressive environmental influences and is used for external work. The interior, in turn, is divided into:

mineral;
silicate;
latex.

There is also a classification according to the type of surface that is obtained as a result. For example, under the "roller", "fur coat", "rust", etc.

In general, each type of plaster has its own characteristics in application. For example, expensive "Venetian" plaster is applied in several layers, in a special way that requires solid professional skills, it can be coated on top with wax. This is beyond the power of a beginner, so it is better to turn to a professional.

If you still want to make repairs with your own hands, it is better to choose a plaster of the "bark beetle" type. To apply it, you only need an ordinary spatula.

Even a beginner will be able to work with ordinary decorative plaster, because it is extremely difficult to spoil such a coating. And there is no need to prepare the walls too carefully - it will smooth out all defects by itself. Such decorative plaster of walls will also give a flight of your design idea.

Preparing walls for decoration

It is necessary to thoroughly clean the wall from the remnants of the past coating (paint, wallpaper, etc.). The exfoliated areas are removed, and the cracks are closed. This will be enough for plaster like "bark beetle", but "Venetian" and some other varieties require a perfectly flat surface.

After priming and drying the surface, it is necessary to decide whether the entire area of the wall will be plastered, or part of it will go under another coating.

Zones of different claddings can be separated using masking tape or window seal.

Minimum set of tools:

Spatulas of various sizes.
Grater (wooden or plastic).
Metal trowel.
Containers for solution and water.
Roller for textured plaster.

The solution should be prepared based on the recommendations on the packaging, then you will get the required consistency. Moreover, you need to prepare such a portion in order to select it at a time, because otherwise the solution will "grab" right in the container. This is a job that does not tolerate long smoke breaks.

You need to apply the plaster with a spatula. When it thickens a little, you can go over it with a float without undue pressure, creating the desired pattern. It is better to practice beforehand in a small area.

To create a unique relief, a spatula, grater and your own hands are enough. You can use any available means.

Most often, beginners create rains of different directions, circles, waves, crossed lines on the walls. The horizontal relief is the easiest to execute. You can also use a special curly roller, then it is much easier to apply the pattern.

All this must be done at the maximum rate, because the layer of plaster dries very quickly. It is necessary to pay special attention to the joints of the sections to avoid sagging.

If your wall has been prepared for different types of coatings, then the adhesive tape in the areas where the zones are divided must be removed before the plaster is completely dry, later it will be more difficult to do this, and minor defects may remain.

After complete drying (usually about 24 hours), the plaster needs to be treated with a fine sandpaper, which removes all excess.

At this, wall decoration with decorative plaster can be considered complete. But there are people who are not satisfied with this, and they want to paint the wall. In this case, use only high quality paint that is resistant to moisture, sunlight and mechanical stress.

When carrying out work, you must first paint the textured areas of the surfaces, and only then smooth ones.

After the first coat has dried, apply a second coat of paint.

For finishing the facade, decorative plaster bark beetle is increasingly used. Even an apprentice can apply it, the main thing is to get acquainted with the technology and adhere to it as accurately as possible.

As a rule, bark beetle is used for facade work, but due to its attractive texture, this type of decorative plaster has recently been used in interior decoration, for example, in eco style.

The bark beetle is used for finishing vertical surfaces, but if you have experience in this matter, then you can even apply it to the ceiling.

Wall preparation and priming

Before applying the bark beetle, you need to putty the surface of the walls, if we are talking about plastered walls. It is very practical to apply the bark beetle directly to the foam that has been previously glued to the facade of the house. Alignment will be reduced to grouting.

In order to avoid the formation of cracks at the joints of the foam, a reinforcing mesh should be used when applying the putty.

To achieve proper adhesion of the plaster to the wall, use a primer that contains quartz sand, which provides excellent adhesion of the plaster to the base of the wall.

The products of the manufacturer Ceresit are most in demand on the market. If you also decide to purchase such a primer, then the CT 16 brand should be used for decorative plaster.

The walls are covered with a primer shortly before the bark beetle is applied. At a temperature of + 20 ° C, the primed surface will dry within 30 minutes. The consumption of the composition is 150 g / m 2.

The primer is slightly translucent from under the plaster, so its color should be as close as possible to the color of the bark beetle. To do this, it should simply be tinted in a shade corresponding to the color of the bark beetle.

If the bark beetle will be applied to cement-sand plaster, then there is no need for priming the surface. Just wet the wall one hour before applying the bark beetle. For maximum adhesion, moisten the substrate with plenty of water.

On the market, you can purchase a ready-made mixture, it can be Ceresit CT 63 or a dry mixture that you will need to prepare yourself. If we talk about the price, then from an economic point of view, it is better to purchase a dry mixture, since it is cheaper.

To prepare decorative plaster from a dry mixture, you will need a drill with a mixer nozzle, water and a mixing container.

The bark beetle dries quickly and must not be mixed with water. Therefore, make a small batch, especially if you have no experience with decorative plaster.

Taking into account the size of the marble chips, the amount of bark beetle is calculated. For the small XS fraction, the consumption is 700 g / m 2, for the XL - 1700 g / m 2, and for the XXL - 2000 g / m 2. To make the joints invisible, you need to apply the bark beetle to the wall at a time.

So, to prepare the mixture, pour the amount of water indicated on the package into the container. In this case, the water temperature should not exceed 15–20 ° C. Add the dry mixture to the water gradually, while stirring the composition with a drill with a mixer attachment. Leave the finished plaster for 10 minutes, and then stir again.

Only acrylic-based bark beetle can be tinted, all other types of plaster are best painted on top.

The main thing when applying the bark beetle is to distribute the composition over the surface evenly. This can be done with a metal trowel 30 cm long.You can remove excess bark beetle from it with a 10 cm long spatula.

The layer of bark beetle should correspond to the size of the marble chips, that is, within 2-3 mm. This is an important condition, because if the layer is too thin, the primer will show through strongly, as a result of which the protective properties of the finish will be deteriorated. Well, if the layer of plaster is too thick, then the texture of the bark beetle will not be visible and the appearance of the facade / interior decoration will suffer.

Since, as mentioned above, the bark beetle dries quickly, you will have to work just as quickly. To make the surface of the walls as uniform as possible, it is better to apply the plaster in one go. But if this is unrealistic due to the large area of the wall, then separate the strip with masking tape and apply the composition slightly overlapping the tape. Then peel off the tape without waiting for the plaster to dry. Continue applying the plaster in the same way until the entire wall is covered with it.

Trituration

The most crucial stage of work is rubbing the bark beetle. It depends on him what the drawing on the wall will ultimately be. This work should be started immediately after the plaster begins to dry (after about 20 minutes). If the palm does not stick to the wall, then you can start rubbing, which is performed using a plastic trowel.

When marble chips are rubbed, chaotic depressions are formed.

Thus, the desired effect can be obtained:

"Lamb" - the pattern is formed through short circular movements. So, chaotic grooves remain on the wall, which are visually similar to the wool of a lamb.
"Rain" is the most common rubbing technique. It is created with up and down movements. So, you get a vertical rain. If you rub from the upper left corner to the lower right corner, then the rain will be diagonal. To keep the grinding angle constant, you can mark the wall with masking tape.
"Carpet" - rubbing should be carried out by alternating movements up and down and left and right.

If you are unable to apply the plaster in one go, then do not rub it all the way to the edge. Better finish the next part of the wall, and then carefully rub the joints. This way you can make a seamless transition.

You can paint the walls the next day after applying the bark beetle. Painting has some advantages over tinting plaster. After drying the bark beetle without color, you can finally level the layer with sandpaper. It is impossible to level plaster with a color scheme in this way, as rubbed pieces will be visible.

Painting provides more opportunities for design work. This aspect is especially relevant when using the bark beetle in the interior design of premises.

The grooves emphasized by a dark shade look very impressive. To achieve this, the wall must first be painted with a dark color. After the paint coat is dry, apply a second lighter coat of paint. In this case, the second layer must be applied with a semi-dry roller. In this case, the paint will not penetrate into the grooves and they will remain dark. The consumption of the coloring composition is 300 g / m 2.

To improve the performance of the walls (this is especially appropriate for interior wall decoration), you can varnish them with glossy or glitter varnish.

Preparing to apply homemade decorative plaster made from putty begins by defining the room in which it will be applied to the walls. The choice of texture, collection of tools and even the method of mixing the composition depends on this.

So, to successfully decorate the walls with putty, you will need:

Putty.
Container for kneading.
Spatula and trowel.
Metal grater.
Construction mixer.
Patterned plastic wrap or bag.

Measure the walls, which will allow you to roughly calculate the amount of starting material for decoration. The approximate consumption of putty indicated on the package will help you with this. To save money, you can purchase a putty in powder form. To make a solution in this case, you will need:

6 kg of dry putty;
200 g PVA glue;
2 liters of water.

Dilute the putty with water in a suitable container. This can be done using a mixer. You should have a smooth paste. Then add PVA to the mixture and bring it back to homogeneity.

For wall decoration in rooms with low humidity levels, you can use gypsum or cement plaster. And for rooms with high levels of humidity, it is better to use cement.

If the walls are damaged, then all crumbling parts must be cleaned. All grooves should be covered with cement. This way, you can line up the walls. If the surface is unreliable, then a plaster mesh should be glued to it, which you will subsequently putty.

After the layer of putty is dry, rub it off so that the surface is even. Then the walls should be primed. Use a deep penetration compound for this purpose.

Applying homemade plaster

You can apply decorative plaster made with your own hand from putty in several ways:

Scales. Apply the putty 3–5 mm thick and then apply vertical strokes with a 10 cm wide trowel. After the composition is dry, it can be painted in the desired color.
Rock. Start applying a thin layer of putty from the top corner of the wall. The layer should be about 3 mm. Then take a metal trowel and attach it so that one side of it stays in the air, not actually touching the wall. Without lifting your hands, draw straight lines along the putty.
Cave. Apply the putty to the wall, smooth it out. Then, with a piece of plastic compressed into a ball, make a pattern, pressing it against the wall. This can be done in another way, by attaching a covering film to the wall. It will need to be torn from the putty in a day.
Venetian from putty. Put some putty on the spatula, make uneven strokes with it. After 24 hours, sand the walls with fine-grained sandpaper. If you only need to erase sharp corners, then use a mesh. Prime the surface and let dry. Paint the wall with a base color, followed by a surface color. It should be lightly wiped off the convex parts of the plaster immediately after application with a damp cloth. Ultimately, the walls should be coated with wax / acrylic lacquer / gilding.
To create an original pattern, you can use other stamps from scrap materials. For example, pieces of foam rubber, twigs, styrofoam, flowers, fabric cuts, a roller wrapped in a cloth, stencils, etc.

After your homemade decorative plaster is dry, paint or open it with colored wax.

In general, this science is simple and even an inexperienced "plasterer" can do it. If you did everything right, your home interior will delight you with originality and identity for many years to come.

Photo

Video

We bring to your attention a series of videos about various decorative plasters and how to apply them:

If you want to order wall decoration with decorative plaster, we recommend contacting professionals, since the price for these products is very high. You can find out the cost of decorative plaster on the websites of companies producing decorative coatings. Also pay attention to the Venetian plaster, which is great for wall covering.

Do-it-yourself decorative plaster from ordinary putty is gaining more and more popularity as an affordable type of decoration, since almost everyone is looking for a middle ground when making repairs in their home, and the optimal price-quality ratio.

Benefits of homemade plaster

Modern renovations are expensive in terms of both purchased materials and hired labor. The work of a plasterer-finisher costs a lot of money. Everyone's desire to save money is understandable and reasonable: no one wants the repairs to take many months, if not years, because of the high cost of the material and the work done. So that he does not become a family curse, you need to look for the most rational way out of this situation. However, the way out is obvious: to make the material yourself. It is this option that will suit the vast majority of people who want to make an inexpensive and beautiful renovation of their apartment.

There are plenty of tools for this, and it is not difficult to acquire them - there would be a desire to complete the pattern.

The use of textured and textured rollers

A simple way to make textured plaster from ordinary putty with your own hands is to use a special roller. It is quite easy to get the desired finish in this way.

Depending on the working surface of this tool, the desired result is obtained - the coveted pattern on the wall.

Rollers differ in their material of manufacture:

In addition to the listed rollers, there are also tools made of foam rubber, fabric, polyethylene, with a spirally fixed cord. With their help, you can achieve a rough surface with a pattern.

Important! Do not press too hard on the tool during operation - a clear drawing is obtained only with minimal effort. The tool must be guided from top to bottom without stopping, pressing firmly against the already finished strip.

These tools fall into two categories:

Homemade finishing tool

It is not necessary to use only those tools that are sold in stores. With waste materials on hand, you can make a roller that will create an unusual, unique pattern.

You can use, for example, a ready-made roller, but make your own adjustments to its design. Examples:

There are as many options for such homemade creativity: polyethylene, twine, rope, threads are used. The foam roller can be used to cut abstract shapes, slits, and more.

Important! When working with structured and textured rollers, you need to work smoothly, without making any sudden movements.

Other necessary tools

You can apply a pattern using other devices:

In addition to the above tools, you can use a lot more, from a brush-brush to a Venetian trowel (trowel). Even a simple broom can give a wall a distinctive design.

Decorative plaster from ordinary putty

Of course, you should not discount simple types of finishes, which are quite attractive in appearance, using the most common putty, both starting and finishing. How to make textured plaster with your own hands? It is very simple, and this option has been widely used recently. "Branded", ready-to-use putty costs about three times more expensive than usual, and it will not be difficult to make it yourself.

Now let's talk about how you can make it and how to work with a homemade mixture.

Materials for decorative plaster from putty:

PVA glue - 200 g.
Gypsum-based mixture - 6 kg.
Water - 2l.

First, we apply a layer, which is called the main one - this is done with a wide spatula. When this layer dries up, we start decorating. There are various ways to create a textured surface. The composition can be applied with spatulas of various sizes and textures - from smooth to serrated. They can be combined.

You can do this with one spatula, applying strokes in different directions. Even the most ordinary broom, as already mentioned, is used to create a pattern, and the result is achieved when impressions are made on the plaster with a broom - from chaotic to strictly directed strokes.

There are a lot of application methods, you either need to choose the one that you like.

Decorative putty application

Each of us would like to get a wonderful appearance of our own home at a minimal cost. One of the easiest methods to get what you want is to buy a finishing putty. It is the finishing one, if the purpose of finishing is a soft texture.

There are many ways to get a beautiful surface when using decorative wall putty. Here is one of them, quite popular.

Instruments:

Brush brush.
A napkin rolled up in a cone or a trowel (trowel).

It is still better to work together, because you need to do everything quickly, not allowing the mixture to dry out prematurely, so that no transitions are visible. Indeed, one of the main advantages of this finish is the absence of joints on the surface.

Of course, this option is far from the only one. It's all about your personal preference and taste. Your imagination should work for you!

Different application methods

How to do:

The plaster is dried before painting.
If there is such a need, it must be processed with fine-grain sandpaper.
Paint is applied in two layers. The base coat - a dark shade - is applied with a long-nap roller.
After complete drying - a lighter color. The roller is short-naped.

Painting methods:

Everything will depend on the drawing. In any case, the background paint is applied in two layers. After finishing the work, two layers of varnish are applied.

Of course, a homemade composition is simple to manufacture, and gypsum-based mixtures are inexpensive, but they will not replace 100% branded decorative putty for walls, which contains marble and granite chips. In no case should it be compared, for example, with Venetian plaster, which is applied only by masters, and even then not by all. But nevertheless, the option described above is available to everyone who wants to add variety to the interior of their home. It will give odds to both wallpaper and painting, both in appearance and in the durability of the coating.

The range of decorative finishing materials for covering interior and exterior wall surfaces, present on the modern market, is quite wide. Some types have a fairly high cost and require special equipment and a professional approach to work with them. Others are cheap and even a beginner can handle them.

It often happens that the desire to beautifully decorate a room is limited by a lack of budget. Craftsmen - finishers, and just folk craftsmen, have come up with effective ways of working with cheap finishing materials, allowing them to imitate expensive counterparts.

One of the most popular methods is the creation of decorative plaster based on ordinary putty, which is widely used due to its low cost.

Cement... It is used to create a leveling layer. It can be used both indoors and outdoors directly on brickwork.

Gypsum... The most common material. It is these types of putty that are used for finishing. Due to the property of gypsum to absorb humid vapors at their high concentration, and with increasing dryness in the room, to evaporate moisture, the humidity level is regulated.

Polymer... Used for finishing. Ideal for sealing joints, small gaps.

Waterproof... Easily adheres to a wide variety of substrates. Withstands high humidity and temperature changes. Excellent resistance to multiple loads.

Universal... Available in different colors. Sands to a perfectly smooth surface. In some cases, it can replace one of the above types.

All types of putties are divided into starting and finishing. The first category is used for leveling surfaces and has a coarser grind. Differs in a grayish color. Finishing is intended for finishing for painting, wallpaper or other finishing material.

With its help, a perfectly smooth surface is created. It is this type of putty that is used as a basis for imitation of decorative plaster.

The most popular among Russian consumers are dry putty mixtures of such manufacturers as:

Sheetrook

Sheetrook offers polymer based leveling compounds. A feature of the products is that some types contain fillers in the form of marble chips or vinyl fibers. Therefore Sheetrook putties can be used both as a leveling layer and as a decorative layer.

It is possible to choose a ready-made material supplied in a plastic container, or dry mixtures diluted with water.

If we look at the ratio of the used finishing materials to the total quantity, we can say that the products of the Knauf company are in the first place. The main specialization of the company is the production of gypsum-based sheet materials.

As a recognized leader in the production of drywall, the company also offers dry building mixtures. Knauf putties are primarily designed for finishing wall materials of our own production.

Putty mixtures of the Vetonit company, in addition to the gypsum base, contain polymer glue, due to which a high strength of the layer applied to the walls is achieved. Mixes of this company are intended for finishing dry rooms during interior work.

Whether the putty solution is properly prepared depends on both the convenience of working with it and the quality of the surface finish of the walls. The main gentleman's set for preparing a putty solution and working with it are:

Trowel spatulas of different sizes;

The container in which the solution will be mixed;

Drill-based stirrer;

Construction float;

Ironer;

Sandpaper.

When measuring the number of components for mixing, it is worth remembering that the finished solution hardens rather quickly. This is especially true for gypsum-based putties. Therefore, the volume must be such that it can be produced without compromising quality. It is better to make one or two extra mixes than to throw away the frozen, unused solution.

The quality of work, the strength of the coating and the appearance of the decorative coating depend on a properly prepared putty solution. The optimal ratio of dry material to water is usually indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. However, in practice, it is often necessary to change the indicators.

In consistency, the finished solution should resemble not very liquid sour cream. The temperature of the mixing water is within twenty-five degrees.

The consistency of the batch depends on the intended thickness of the applied layer. The higher it is, the more dry mix you need to add. It should be borne in mind that the thicker the solution, the faster it hardens.

For reliable adhesion of the putty layer to the wall surface, it is necessary to perform some preparatory work. If it is planned to decorate brickwork plastered with cement mortar, then the latter must be kept for a four-week period.

When working with old walls, layers of old paint, wallpaper and putty applied on them for the entire time must be completely removed. The presence of fatty contamination is unacceptable. These areas are cleaned with a solvent followed by rinsing with soapy water.

Large cracks and irregularities are covered up, and the entire surface of the wall is leveled using the same filler that will be used for decorative imitation. The preparation ends with the application of a primer layer.

When working on imitation of decorative plaster, there are situations when it is necessary to level the surface before applying the main layer. For this, a base layer is used, which also serves as the basis for better adhesion of subsequent mortar applications to the wall.

The technology of applying the base layer is performed by nothing according to the same technology as the decorative one. The only difference is that a starting putty is used for this.

Variants of imitation of decorative putty

There are several ways to transform a layer of ordinary putty into decorative plaster. For this, you can use the most common tools and materials at hand. It should be remembered that the height of the decorative texture is usually 1 - 1.5 mm. Based on this, the thickness of the main layer is calculated.

All ingenious is simple. Create a masterpiece with a simple paint roller

Rolling the surface of a layer of putty applied to the wall with this tool, you can get irregularities of the original shape, reminiscent of tousled velor. By adjusting the degree of pressure or wrapping the cushion with a cloth, a different decorative effect is obtained.

We use a textile material with a large, embossed texture

You can create an original texture on the wall using a piece of fabric with a pronounced texture of intertwined threads. It is enough to press the material against the applied layer of putty.

The intertwined threads will be printed onto the surface, leaving behind a pattern of small dimples and bumps. Old burlap gives a great effect.

The use of brushes is one of the most common and simple techniques.

One of the easiest ways, which nevertheless gives a good result. The pile of a brush applied to the surface of the layer leaves traces in the form of streaks. Their shape, frequency and appearance depend on the density of the bristles on the instrument, the pressing force.

The rest depends on the imagination. The brush can be guided along the wall either straight or in waves, circles or zigzags.

"Fish scales" - spectacular relief with minimal effort

With this method, decorative irregularities are obtained by pressing the putty knife against the putty layer, followed by pulling it back. A surface treated with a tool with a rounded edge looks especially impressive.

"Rosebuds" or any texture obtained using thick paper

You can get patterns in the form of flowers on the wall using thick paper. For this, a ball is formed from the sheet.

To protect it from moisture, it must be placed in a plastic bag. By pressing such a peculiar tool to a soft putty, it is possible to obtain patterns that resemble rose flowers.

The next method is a little more complicated than the others and takes more time. Based on this, it is necessary to prepare the solution in small volumes. Wall treatment should also be carried out in small areas.

Rain effect - create drops and streams of water on the wall

Work begins with the application of markings on the wall, which are parallel stripes, being guided by which strokes are made with a trowel.

Since the direction of "raindrops" can be vertical, oblique or horizontal, so are the markings. The distance between the lines should be equal to three times the width of the trowel used.

The working solution is applied to the wall with a layer of three centimeters. Since the putty sets quickly, the width of the processed strip should be equal to the size of the tool used and the length should be one meter.

Imitation of raindrops is obtained by pressing the tool against a soft putty, followed by peeling off. As a result of the operations performed, numerous spike-shaped protrusions are formed on the surface. They will be the basis for the main decor.

Having applied a clean trowel to the surface, and placing it at a slight angle, the tool is carried out in the desired direction, smoothly tearing off at the end of the movement. Gradually, all sections of the wall are processed in this way.

Formation of texture through a stencil

Using purchased or homemade stencils, you can get a variety of wall surface textures. The simplest is the indentation technology. For this, stencils with convex patterns are used.

After applying a layer of mortar to a small area of the wall, the selected stencil is pressed against the surface. In this way, you can create an abstract texture on the walls, as well as concrete images and ornaments.

The use of special stencils allows you to simulate snake or crocodile skin, stone or brickwork.

By using imagination and imagination, you can use what you can find at home to create an original texture. An ordinary rope, fixed on a piece of plywood in the form of a pattern, becomes an original stencil. Due to its flexibility, the string allows you to realize your wildest fantasies.

Interesting textures can be created using newspapers, film, washcloths, sponges and other improvised means.

The nuances of using multiple colors

The final stage of finishing is surface painting. To emphasize the decorative effect of embossed surfaces, it is advisable to use paint of at least two different shades.

Coloring of textured plaster can be done by washing. This method is more acceptable when the surface relief is clearly defined. To give the walls expressiveness, two different shades are used.

Lighter paint is used as a background. After its application and complete drying, a darker color is applied, part of which, after application, is removed with a damp sponge or cloth. Thus, a dark background remains in the recessed areas of the relief, and the protruding parts are lightened.

Helpful hints. Video - a master class for creating an elite "Venetian" from ordinary putty

Work with a layer of putty applied to the wall must be performed as quickly as possible in order to have time before the mortar sets.

The boundaries of wall sections with different textures are separated for the duration of the work with masking tape, which must be removed until the putty is completely dry. Otherwise, chipping of the extreme contours is inevitable.