How to properly insulate the ceiling and walls in a private house. The better to insulate the ceiling from the inside in a private house: the choice of material and the sequence of work Which insulation is better for the ceiling of a house

High-quality insulation of the ceiling in a house with a cold roof reduces heat costs, reduces heating costs and increases living comfort. Thermal insulation is carried out in different ways, using materials of various composition and form of release. How to choose the best option?

We will talk about which methods are most effective in installing a system that prevents heat leakage through the ceiling. We will tell you what to look for when choosing a heater. In the article we have proposed, you will find valuable recommendations for improving the thermal insulation characteristics of the house.

A cold roof is a budgetary and practical option for organizing the roof of a house for seasonal living. This design significantly saves construction costs, but does not contribute to heat conservation.

It is desirable to solve the issue of thermal insulation of the ceiling zone at the stage of building a house. However, insulation is often resorted to in the operated premises.

The warm air of the heated room rises and, in contact with the cold ceiling, quickly cools. Losses of thermal energy through an uninsulated roof and ceiling reach 25-40%

Thermal insulation of the ceiling solves a number of problems:

Reduces the intensity of cooling of heated air, contributing to savings in home heating costs.
Increases sound insulation in a room by dampening the rumble of wind or heavy rain.
In summer, the insulating material helps to keep the room cool without letting in warm air from outside.

Insulation of the ceiling increases the comfort of a private house and optimizes the microclimate of the room. Subject to the installation technology, thermal insulation eliminates the appearance of condensate on structural elements.

Methods of thermal insulation of the floor

Thinking about how to properly under a cold roof, first of all, you need to decide on the method of thermal insulation.

There are two fundamentally different approaches:

insulation from the attic;
installation of thermal insulation material from inside the room.

The first method is more preferable for a number of reasons. So, the installation technology itself is greatly simplified - there is no need to build a suspended frame or fix the insulation with glue to the ceiling.

External insulation eliminates costly repairs inside the room, and also does not reduce the height of the ceilings. The latter is especially true if the distance to the ceiling in the premises does not exceed 2.5 m.

Also, with this approach, the risks of condensation are minimized. What can not be said about the thermal insulation from the inside of the room.

If you choose the wrong insulation and do not exclude the contact of warm air with a cold plate, then water vapor from the room will accumulate - this is fraught with the appearance of dampness, fungus and the gradual destruction of the ceiling.

However, in some situations, the internal insulation of the ceiling is a necessary measure, for example:

lack of access to the attic;
reconstruction of an old building with a ready-made attic floor;
thermal insulation of the garage located in the basement.

If internal insulation is necessary, installation technology should be followed to prevent condensation inside the building. It is important to comply with two requirements: block the flow of water vapor and use insulation of sufficient thickness.

Overview of the best ceiling insulation

The choice of installation method also determines the list of possible options for heat insulators. When insulating from the attic, the range of materials is much larger - from natural compositions to technological modern solutions. Installation from inside the room imposes a number of restrictions.

Regardless of the placement method, it must have low thermal conductivity. The coefficient determines the ability of the insulator to transfer energy from heated elements to cold ones. The lower the thermal conductivity, the better the material retains heat.

An important selection parameter is moisture resistance. The ability of the material to maintain physical characteristics in a humid environment is especially important when insulating from the side of the attic, when the roofing is worn out enough

Additional requirements include:

durability;
environmental friendliness and safety for humans;
low flammability - it is better to use non-combustible insulators, compositions with minimal smoke formation;
resistance to rodents - relevant for materials placed in the attic.

It is important to take into account the vapor permeability of the insulation. But there are nuances here. When insulating a concrete slab from the attic side, a vapor permeable material must be used. For installation from inside the room, on the contrary, it is a vapor-tight insulation.

View # 1 - mineral wool insulation

The popular heat insulator holds its leading position due to its affordability, ease of installation and good thermal efficiency.

For installation under a cold roof, mineral wool with a synthetic binder, basalt insulation and glass wool are used. The last option provides the maximum thermal efficiency. The thermal conductivity of glass wool is 0.044 W / (m ° C).

However, it should be used with caution - the particles cause irritation of the skin and mucous membranes. Glass wool is unacceptable for indoor use. Basalt insulation is deprived of these shortcomings. Additional advantages of the material: fire safety and plasticity.

General disadvantages of mineral wool materials:

water absorption;
low strength;
tendency to shrink;
the content of unsafe components - abrasive particles or formaldehyde resins.

To place the layers of mineral wool, it will be necessary to install wooden logs, it is desirable to waterproof the insulation itself from above.

Type #2 - loose cellulose insulator

Bulk material made from paper waste and pulp. To protect against decay and fire, synthetic components are added to ecowool.

The material is used for external insulation - in the attic. Ecowool is sprayed dry over the floor or applied mixed with glue. Requires special equipment to work

The characteristics of cellulose insulation and the technology of its application endowed the modern method of thermal insulation with a number of advantages:

good thermal efficiency - a thermal conductivity index of about 0.038 W / (m ° C);
the material fills all the voids and crevices, forming a solid canvas - no cold bridges are formed;
due to its light weight, it is possible to lay ecowool of any thickness;
durability of service and preservation of original properties;
environmental friendliness - ecowool does not emit toxic fumes;
low flammability and self-extinguishing ability;
vapor permeability.

Despite the mass of dignity, ecowool has not gained much popularity. The main reasons for low demand: high cost, impossibility of installation by hand.

In addition, ecowool is prone to shrinkage and wrinkling - it is advisable to equip a rigid support from above for moving around the attic.

View # 3 - plate polymer types

This group of heaters includes: foam and (EPS). Their thermal efficiency exceeds indicators of mineral wool heaters. The leader is XPS, the thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.038 W/m°C.

Expanded polystyrene is superior to polystyrene in terms of strength, rigidity and fire safety. However, in the event of a fire, XPS boards also emit toxic fumes.

Styrofoam is cheaper than polystyrene foam. Among the general advantages are:

water resistance;
low biological activity;
wide choice of geometric dimensions and thicknesses.

Both materials are vapor-tight, so they are used to insulate concrete and brick surfaces.

The material is suitable for . Penofol is placed with the foil side inside the room - the canvas not only retains heat, but also partially reflects it back.

As an independent material, foamed polyethylene is advisable to use in areas with a mild climate. In regions with severe winters, a combination of penofol and penoplex shows a good effect.

View # 4 - bulk heat insulator

Light porous material in the form of rounded granules. Contains burnt clay. The natural origin of the insulation explains its environmental friendliness.

Additional benefits of expanded clay:

fire resistance;
providing a good degree of sound insulation;
durability;
chemical inertness;
not of interest to rodents;
the heater does not give dust.

The thermal efficiency of expanded clay depends on the density of the embankment, the size of the granules.

To ensure the preservation of heat, it will be necessary to use an embankment with a thickness of 20 cm or more, in cold regions the layer is increased to 40-50 cm. This leads to an increase in the cost of the warming procedure and significantly increases the load on the ceiling.

View #5 - liquid polyurethane

Polyurethane foam is applied to the surface under pressure, a special technique is used for spraying. Polyurethane foam is an excellent solution for attic floors with complex terrain and thermal insulation of hard-to-reach places.

The main advantages of foam ceiling insulation:

formation of a seamless hermetic coating;
high adhesion with materials - polyurethane foam fills all cracks and voids;
low water absorption;
excellent thermal efficiency due to the porous structure of the hardened foam - thermal conductivity of about 0.027 W / m ° C;
preservation of qualities in wet conditions;
the possibility of multilayer spraying - relevant for cold regions;
providing acoustic insulation;
durability of the coating - service life of about 25 years;
speed of processing;
resistance to microorganisms;
lightness of the material - does not exert pressure on the overlap.

Polyurethane foam is difficult to ignite, the insulation does not spread combustion.

Spray insulation is considered one of the best solutions for attic floor treatment. The limited use of polyurethane foam is explained by the high cost of the method

The total cost includes the price of the insulation itself and the cost of attracting craftsmen with equipment. Foam spraying should not be carried out if the air temperature in the attic is below +10 °C.

View #6 - natural materials

The main advantages of folk methods: affordable cost and environmental friendliness. The technique of using and the effectiveness of such natural materials as sawdust and algae is different.

Features of insulation with sawdust

Loose woodworking waste is often mixed with chips and distributed over the ceiling from the attic side.

Warming methods:

Dry backfill. Wooden logs are mounted on the floor, the cells are filled with sawdust. The material shrinks over time and requires periodic updating.
wet method. Combine sawdust, cement and water in a ratio of 10:2:1.5, respectively. Such a thermal layer is more durable.

Weaknesses of sawdust: flammability, fear of rodents and water absorption.

Characteristics and varieties of algae

In coastal areas, algae are widely used, the second name for insulation is damask. The material is natural, good thermal insulation characteristics. Rodents do not start in algae, and the insulation itself is not afraid of moisture and does not rot.

There are three types of stone:

by weight- bales or loose rolls collected from dried pressed seaweed;
mats in nets- canvases 10 cm thick, tied with synthetic thread for ease of installation;
dense plates- up to 85% of algae are present in the composition, the rest is a binding component, for example, silicone.

In terms of thermal efficiency, kamka is significantly inferior to many heaters, the heat capacity coefficient is 0.087 W / (m ° C).

Calculation of the thickness of the thermal insulation layer

The efficiency of thermal insulation depends on the accuracy of determining the thickness of the insulation, which is part of it. In addition, the indicator allows you to calculate the loads imposed on the ceiling structure. When calculating, the values of the allowable weight and the required thermal protection are compared.

The thickness of the insulation is determined by the formula

q = R*k,

q– thickness of heat-insulating material, m;
R– thermal resistance, m 2 °С/W;
k- coefficient of thermal conductivity of the insulation, W / (m ° C).

The R value is determined from tabular data - the indicator is calculated for each region, taking into account the climate.

For example, the normalized thermal resistance of floors for Nizhny Novgorod is 4.26 m2°C/W. If you use penoplex to insulate the ceiling, you will need a layer of thermal insulation 12 cm thick

To calculate, it is enough to multiply the indicators 4.26 and 0.038. The last value is the thermal conductivity coefficient of extruded polystyrene foam. The weighting of the ceiling is calculated based on the volume of insulation and its density. The first indicator is determined by the product of the area and the thickness of the thermal insulation, the second is the tabular value.

The minimum load on the ceiling is provided by polyurethane foam and ecowool, their density is in the range of 25-60 kg / cu. m. One of the heaviest heaters is expanded clay - 180-330 kg / cu. m.

Features of mounting different materials

The tactics of action depends on the chosen material and its location - from inside the room or from the side of the attic.

Mineral wool installation

Installation of insulation is carried out on the attic floor.

When constructing a heat-insulating cake, it is important to withstand two conditions:

to ensure the protection of mineral wool from water vapor coming from inside a warm room;
arrange ventilation of the outer surface to weather moisture from the insulation.

Mineral wool slabs are laid between the beams or planks of the prepared crate. Surface mounting possible.

Before starting work, it is necessary to check the boards for rot, treat the wooden elements with an antiseptic. Make sure the roof is not leaking

The surface is cleaned of debris, if necessary, a wooden frame is constructed.

Next steps:

Install vapor barrier membrane.
Roll out rolls or place mats between beams.
Mount the wooden base, maintaining the ventilation gap between the insulation and the hard floor.

The last step can be skipped. However, it will not be possible to walk in the attic or store things there, since mineral wool cannot be pressed.

Sheathing from the inside with polystyrene foam

This option of thermal insulation is suitable for a concrete ceiling. Expanded polystyrene plates are fixed to the surface with glue and fixed with "fungi".

Before installing the insulation, the ceiling is treated with an antifungal compound and a primer.

The procedure for fixing expanded polystyrene plates:

Apply glue to the insulation, attach and press to the ceiling.
Cover the entire area with slabs, leaving no gaps between the elements.
Drill holes for fasteners with a puncher.
Kill mushrooms.
Joints and gaps between the plates should be foamed.
Cut off the remaining foam, fix the reinforcing mesh with adhesive.
Surface primed and plastered.

After the layer has dried, clean the ceiling and apply a finishing decorative coating.

Filling the attic with expanded clay

The minimum layer of bulk insulation is 20 cm. To regulate the height of the backfill, it is necessary to prepare a beacon - make the desired mark on the piece of reinforcement by securing a piece of electrical tape.

If a wooden base is insulated with expanded clay, then the ceiling must first be covered with waterproofing with a call to the walls. Suitable plastic film

There is no need to lay a hydro-barrier on a concrete base.

Sequence of work:

Pour expanded clay and evenly distribute the granules.
Check the thickness of the insulating layer. Its height should be 3-4 cm below the level of the flooring. If this norm is neglected, then when walking in the attic, the sound of rubbing the granules will be heard.
Lay a layer of vapor barrier membrane, glue the joints of the sheets with adhesive tape.
Install a rigid base. Suitable boards, fiberboard or OSB panels.

A floor over expanded clay makes it easier to move around the attic and increases the effectiveness of the heat-insulating cake.

Application of sprayed insulation

It will not work to do the work on your own, since spraying will require expensive equipment - a high-pressure apparatus. In addition, skills in working with equipment are required to evenly distribute polyurethane foam.

It is better to entrust the work to a specialized company and conclude an agreement with them for the provision of services. At the appointed time, a brigade arrives, stretches a hose with a gun into the house

Mount wooden logs on the floor of the attic. They will be needed for the subsequent fastening of the flooring.
Fill the device with components in the required proportions.
Set the gun to the minimum foam delivery force.
Apply polyurethane foam between the joists in an even layer.
Wait for the composition to dry. If the thickness of one layer is not enough, then the treatment must be repeated.
Level the hardened coating, cutting off the excess to the level of the lag.
Mount a rigid base on the boards.

To insulate a small ceiling with your own hands, you can use a disposable foam spray kit.

The kit includes everything you need: cylinders with components for the preparation of foam insulation, a spray gun, hoses, personal protective equipment

Assembly and preparation takes a couple of minutes, no power supplies are needed - the device works autonomously.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Mineral wool floor insulation technology:

Thermal insulation of the ceiling of a private house with sawdust:

Insulation of the ceiling with a cold roof is one of the conditions for comfortable and economical operation of the house. When arranging a heat-insulating layer, it is important to choose the right material. The method of installation is important, as well as the mandatory formation of a reliable cut-off of condensate.

When installing good ceiling insulation in a residential building with a cold roof, heating costs are saved and heat losses are reduced. For this, heat-insulating building products are used, various in type of manufacture and composition. It is important to know which heaters are the most effective and how to properly insulate the attic floor to increase the thermal efficiency of the building.

Need for ceiling insulation

Warming the ceiling of the house allows you to raise the room temperature in the premises, but condensation may appear in the attic. When warm air rises, it comes into contact with cold air, condensing moisture droplets. As a result of this process, the heat-insulating material is saturated with water and begins to actively rot with the formation of fungus and mold. To avoid this phenomenon, it is necessary to change the physical conditions in the attic floor.

concrete ceiling

Since concrete has a high thermal conductivity, it consumes heat but remains cold. As a result, condensate is formed, which can destroy the structure of the material when it freezes. Therefore, the insulation of the attic floor on a reinforced concrete slab occurs with the obligatory use of a vapor-permeable insulation to remove moisture to the outside.

If it is not possible to insulate the ceiling from the outside, then the material will have to be laid from the inside, but then it must be impervious to steam in order to protect the concrete from moisture. You will also need a layer of vapor barrier for additional protection.

wooden ceiling

Wood is susceptible to decay and attack by various bacteria. If the thermal regime is not properly organized, the floor will get wet and intensively destroyed. In this case, the insulation of the wooden ceiling can be carried out both from the inside and outside. With the external method, you can significantly save space, and with the internal method, impenetrable high-quality material is required. It is also recommended to lay a vapor barrier between the ceiling and the insulation for greater protection.

Varieties of vapor barrier

When insulating the ceiling of a cold attic, the installation of a vapor barrier layer is an important process, because due to its absence, the entire procedure will be impractical. After installing the insulation from the inside, the state of the ceiling will be unknown, and all kinds of impacts on it will be hidden. In the future, this may be the reason for the partial or complete restoration of the overlap. The most effective way to protect it is to install a vapor barrier.

Vapor barrier

Represents a conventional polyethylene film as an airtight barrier to wet steam. To save money, a simple polyethylene sleeve can be used, as it has the same properties as other polyethylene materials. Laying is carried out in overlapping strips of 15-20 cm and an overlap on wall structures up to 15 cm. The joints must be glued with adhesive tape to achieve tightness.

When installing from the inside of the room, the film is laid only on top of the impermeable insulation, the same applies to installation on a concrete floor. If the insulation is carried out in the attic, then polyethylene is located between the wooden structure and the heat insulator.

Membrane

It is a film where only one side is permeable. It prevents the penetration of moisture, but does not prevent it from coming out. They are used to protect the heat-insulating material from getting wet and deoxidized.

If the attic floor is insulated on wooden beams with mineral wool, then the vapor barrier membrane will provide free steam release, but will protect the insulation from external moisture, while maintaining its operational properties.

Features of cold roofs

To protect a residential building from the effects of external phenomena, a cold-type roof is arranged. There are many thermal insulation products that help reduce heat loss. The temperature inside and outside the attic should vary within 4 ° C, so the air through the ventilation ducts should enter the attic, and not into the space under the roof. Then the humidity and temperature indicators will correspond to the street. Otherwise, the imbalance of modes will lead to the destruction of the truss structure and roofing.

The advantages of a cold roof are:

Ease of maintenance. The roof has free space for access to any point, so repair and preventive measures are carried out without difficulty.
Good waterproofing. A warm attic involves the use of add-ons that violate the integrity of the waterproofing material. When installing a cold roof, installation of additional elements is not required.
useful use. Despite the fact that the temperature in the attic is lower, it can be used as a temporary warehouse, and later converted into an additional room.
Minimum heat transfer surface area. Heat loss is only possible through the ceiling.

Inlet and outlet vents work most effectively at a great distance from each other. When they are arranged under the wind board along the entire length, a full-fledged air exchange of the entire attic space is ensured. Inlet openings are located in places of greatest pressure, due to which the intensity of blowing increases.

Read also: Stages of building a foundation with your own hands

A cold roof is arranged on various types of buildings with a height of 1-5 floors. Therefore, the installation of thermal protection on the ceiling is carried out with an estimated thickness depending on the material and the region of location (climatic conditions). Often it is laid in a layer of 20-50 cm. It is equally important to take into account the exit areas of ventilation and chimneys through the attic floor. It is these zones that contribute to the maximum removal of heat to the outside.

Advantages of ceiling insulation

Roof insulation should be calculated at the stage of building a house. But often this question arises when the building is already finished, where thermal insulation was not provided earlier. When insulating a reinforced concrete or wooden ceiling in a house with a cold roof, you can get the following benefits:

Maintaining the microclimate by preventing the penetration of heated air from the street in the summer season.
In winter, it will protect the room from serious heat loss through the ceiling.
The insulation additionally has soundproofing properties. Therefore, discomfort will not be created during heavy rain, wind or extraneous noise on the street.

Effective ways to insulate the ceiling

There are several types of attic floor insulation: from the inside by nailing the insulation to the ceiling, and from the outside, using a rolled product and rolling it over the attic surface. Both methods are very practical, the main difference is the choice of the appropriate product and installation method.

Work indoors

When warming from the inside, you can use mineral wool due to its high heat-insulating and vapor-permeable properties. Often it is laid inside a suspended structure made of metal profiles and sheathed with drywall. However, it is forbidden to compress it, as it has air gaps. When compressed, they disappear, and the thermal performance decreases sharply.

Important! Despite the effectiveness, mineral and basalt wool is recommended to be used only for external insulation. Due to their low strength, the microfibers separate and, if ingested, cause side effects and serious illness.

Other materials can also be installed on the frame or screwed directly to the ceiling, taking into account the laying of the vapor barrier layer.

Work outdoors

From the side of the attic, it is recommended to lay rolled or slab material, since it does not require careful fixation or frame manufacturing. This is a practical way, since the insulation does not take away the useful height of the room. Before carrying out work, the surface should be thoroughly cleaned of foreign debris. Laying can be carried out in one or two layers with a thickness of 30-50 cm using mounting foam to fasten them.

If the attic space is not used in the future, then additional coatings are not required. If it will be equipped for storing things, then the insulation is covered with plank flooring or sheet moisture-resistant plywood. When using bulk materials, coating is also not required, but this does not apply to dry leaves or sawdust.

thickness should be calculated according to the region of residence and type of material;
based on the selected product, you should know how to properly insulate the ceiling with a cold roof to ensure maximum effect;
when laying several materials on top of each other, the vapor barrier indicators should increase from the bottom to the top (the other way around is impossible);
mineral wool cannot be covered with expanded clay or vermiculite in order to avoid its punching;
it is forbidden to lay vapor barrier on both sides of the heat insulator, so as not to lock in moisture and not spoil the material;
all joints of the connection of steam and heat-insulating materials must be sealed to eliminate cold bridges. For this, adhesive tapes, mounting foam, a special solution or glue are used.

Required Tools

To carry out thermal insulation work, you will need tools such as: fasteners (self-tapping screws, screws, dowels, anchors, liquid nails), building brackets, tape measure, concrete puncher, screwdriver, hammer, construction knife for cutting sheet products.

The material is a heater, a vapor barrier film or membrane, metal profiles to create a frame, wooden bars 3x3 cm or 5x5 cm.

What is the best insulation for the ceiling in a brick house

For effective insulation of the ceiling in a house with a cold roof, the following types of material are used from the outside and from the inside:

Monolithic - has a high density and water resistance, while the dew point goes in any direction without deteriorating the properties of the insulation. These include extruded polystyrene foam.
Fibrous or porous - produced in the form of rolled material or mats. They are highly exposed to moisture saturation and lose their characteristics, therefore they are used only in conjunction with a vapor barrier. There are such types: mineral wool, slab and sheet polyurethane foam.
Bulk or sprayed - the first option is laid manually, and the second only with the help of special equipment.

From the outside, insulation along the wooden beams of the attic floor is carried out using light rolled or bulk materials (sawdust, leaves). For concrete slabs, dense monolith, slabs or heavy bulk material (expanded clay) can be laid.

Features of insulation for outdoor use

Work from the attic can be carried out with the following materials:

Material	Description
Plate and roll
reeds	Represents mats that fit in two layers. It is environmentally friendly with high thermal properties. Disadvantages: increased fire hazard, susceptibility to attack by rodents and insects, rotting in high humidity.
Seaweed	A popular material in coastal regions. Refers to environmentally friendly and efficient heat insulators. They are laid in one layer outside the attic and covered with boardwalk. Resistant to moisture, insects and rodents.
Penoplex	It is a type of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) with high strength. It is not used for wooden floors due to complete vapor tightness. Before laying the insulation, the concrete base is leveled and covered with a vapor barrier film. After insulation, the material is poured with a cement-sand mortar up to 50 mm thick. During operation, you can move on the surface.
Mineral wool	The most common material that is available in plate and roll versions. Between wooden lags, it is recommended to lay mineral wool in the form of mats, and for concrete floors - in a roll type. Plank flooring is required to use the base as a floor.
sprayed
polyurethane foam	It has a number of advantages, however, due to the absolute vapor impermeability, it can disrupt the microclimate in the premises. It is applied using special equipment under high pressure, so self-insulation is impossible. The foam layer with optimal thermal performance has a thickness of up to 12 cm.
Ecowool	A modern heat-insulating material that is laid on a wooden and concrete base without the use of vapor barrier products. However, experts recommend nevertheless laying in order to avoid the ingress of insulation into the room through joints and cracks. It is also installed using an installation that provides a monolithic coating with the filling of all defects in the ceiling. The layer thickness is 25-40 cm depending on the region. Independent use and drawing on a surface is possible.
Bulk
Sawdust	Most popular in conditions where you can get it for free or at an extremely low cost. For a ceiling with a cold roof, the layer thickness is 15-30 cm. The disadvantage is the increased flammability, therefore they are additionally covered with a slag layer. Before laying, a layer of carbide and slaked lime is arranged as a protection against rodents and insects. Sawdust is often used in conjunction with cement or clay.
Expanded clay	Relatively light, used for insulation of different fractions: 0-5 mm, 5-20 mm, 20-40 mm. In cold regions, the thickness of the embankment layer is 40-50 cm, for a temperate climate - no more than 20 cm. If the attic is not used, the material does not require additional coverage, otherwise you can make a plank floor or fill it with a layer of cement-sand screed up to 5 cm .

Read also: Finishing the plinth with plaster: features of various types of finishes, a step-by-step technique

Insulation for indoor use

Insulation of the ceiling in the premises is not recommended, however, in the absence of other options, this is possible. Since the house is quite warm and humid, the material can be exposed to mold and mildew. To avoid this, it is necessary to create a ventilation gap between it and the finish up to 3 cm thick, which will take even more room height.

As a heater on the ceiling in a private house, the following products are used:

Penofol - is a double material of foil and polyethylene foam. It is used in areas with a temperate climate, as it has average thermal insulation. It can be used as an independent layer, or combined with other types.
Expanded polystyrene - practical for concrete floors. It is laid in a crate with a depth of about 3 cm and is closed with a finishing material (lining, drywall, Armstrong, stretch ceiling).
Plaster mortars - they are distinguished by high moisture resistance, fire resistance and decorative appearance. The mixture is used only for concrete bases and includes heat-insulating components.
Cork - cork material is moisture resistant, therefore it is used without vapor barrier. It is environmentally friendly, can serve not only as a heater, but also as a finishing material in a certain room design.

When choosing a heat insulator, you should pay attention to the material of manufacture of the ceiling and financial possibilities. Wooden ones are recommended to be insulated with dry products, and concrete slabs or covered with special compounds.

Methods of internal insulation of the ceiling of a cold attic

Before carrying out external or internal insulation, it is necessary to calculate the thickness of the material using the formula R=δ/λ, where:

R - resistance to heat transfer (according to the region of residence, for Moscow - 4.7 m² ° С / W);
δ is the thickness of the insulation layer;
λ is the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material (according to the GOST regulatory document).

Work begins with a thorough cleaning of the surface from debris, dust, cobwebs or moisture. When laying the product on the ceiling, be sure to leave a ventilation gap to protect against mold and moisture accumulation.

The use of penofol

Penofol consists of foamed polyethylene and a foil layer, it is used for buildings with a low level of heat loss due to low thermal insulation performance. To install insulation on the ceiling, you need to create a crate. The product is rolled out on the surface of the frame and fixed with nails. The foil layer should look inside the room.

The creation of ventilation gaps on both sides provides for the presence of an additional crate, which will later be closed with sheet finishing coatings or a stretch ceiling. The most effective use of penofol is possible in conjunction with penoplex to increase thermal insulation properties.

The use of penoplex from the inside

The material is practical for both outdoor and indoor use for thermal insulation of cold roof ceilings. Warming is carried out according to the following scheme:

A crate is made of a wooden beam with a thickness exceeding the thickness of extruded polystyrene foam by 0.3-0.4 cm. The step between the slats is equal to the width of the insulation sheet minus 1-2 mm.
The material is installed in the cells, and with the correct assembly of the frame, the plates should fit snugly with little effort.
The crate is closed with plasterboard, suspended or stretch ceiling.

Attention! To increase the reliability, penoplex can be fixed to the ceiling using dowel-nails of the "umbrella" type. The wide cap allows you to press it tightly without pushing through the fasteners.

Polyurethane foam and plaster mixes

Polyurethane foam belongs to modern high-performance products and allows you to create an ideal heat-insulating layer to reduce the heat transfer coefficient. The advantages when used on ceilings are:

resistance to insects, bacteria;
fire resistance;
high sound and waterproofing;
high adhesive properties with various types of coatings;
resistance to temperature changes.

Any owner strives to create comfortable living in his home. To do this, it periodically monitors possible heat losses, as a result of which the room temperature may decrease and energy use increase. Window and door openings are the main conductors of cold air.

As a rule, they are the first to be replaced by homeowners with quality products. Many rushed to insulate the walls, the foundation. And about the ceiling, for some reason, they do not always remember. And in vain! According to the laws of physics, heat loss due to poor-quality ceilings can be over 20 percent. The barrier created at the top will prevent heat from escaping, and the heaters will not have to heat the environment.

Ways to insulate the ceiling in a private house include both indoor work and in the attic. These works to strengthen the energy protection of the house are equivalent, so each owner can choose a convenient option for themselves.

The difference between the methods lies in the installation technology and the materials used:

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside is accompanied by subsequent surface finishing with drywall or other suspended structures. It should be noted that the height of the room after installation will decrease from 10 to 25 cm. The material used must have vapor-permeable properties. These can be: mineral or basalt wool, penofol.
External insulation of the ceiling is carried out in the attic. A more economical and profitable option, since it does not require further finishing work, if the use of an attic room is not provided. It is recommended to use a vapor barrier material to prevent moisture from reaching the ceiling. Most often used: foam, penoizol, mineral wool, expanded clay.

The choice of insulation

The modern construction market offers a huge amount of materials for ceiling insulation. Even expanded clay, sawdust, hay, clay and slag are used, which have a number of significant disadvantages among their advantages. The choice must meet the requirements of the technology.

The main requirements that a heater must meet:

do not emit toxic substances;
be resistant to moisture;
have a low flammability.

Popular materials for home energy saving work

Mineral wool in the form of sheets or rolls is widely used in construction work. The characteristic of a heater meets technical requirements of thermal insulation. The use in residential premises is dictated by the absence of toxic substances in the composition and excellent thermal insulation properties. Mineral wool has components of limestone, basalt, diabase and dolomite.

Rocks endow the material with valuable qualities:

low degree of thermal conductivity;
resistance to temperature changes;
lack of flammability;
ecological feature.

And yet the material has disadvantages:

ability to absorb moisture;
during installation, be sure to use a waterproofing film;
additionally process the seams of the joints with mounting foam for better sealing;
for fixing the insulation, a crate is made of a wooden bar or profiles;
relatively short service life (10-15 years).

Penofol consists of interlayers of polyethylene foam and aluminum foil. Combines the properties of several insulating materials with a fairly wide range of applications. Represents the basis in the innovative decoration of balconies and loggias.

It has low thermal conductivity, which will save energy. Protective qualities will prevent the penetration of cold air, drafts and radon into the room. In summer, penofol will help keep the house cool, create a comfortable microclimate.

The light weight of the material makes installation convenient, and the structure of the structure is not weighed down. To work with penofol, you will need a minimum amount of improvised means: a construction knife, adhesive tape and liquid nails.

Along with the advantages, there are also disadvantages:

flexible surface means finishing the ceiling with a suspended structure with a frame;
it is problematic to fix the material on some surfaces;
to increase thermal protection, it is recommended to use mineral wool.

Expanded polystyrene is known to many more as polystyrene. Easy-to-use material creates a strong protection of heat in the room, without harming the health of the household. With proper installation, it fully justifies the costs and retains its qualities for a long time.

The advantages are:

moisture resistance;
good thermal conductivity;
light weight, excluding structural reinforcement;
simple installation.

The disadvantages include:

easy flammability;
instability to the effects of ultraviolet rays and solvents;
low resistance to mechanical damage.

Penoizol is a liquid foamed foam. To insulate the ceiling from the outside, it is necessary to use special equipment for applying a binder to the surface.

Material advantages:

affordable price;
thermal insulation qualities;
resistance to ignition;
easily fills hard-to-reach places;
safe operation.

Flaws:

lack of special equipment excludes self-assembly;
low resistance to mechanical stress;
the first 2-3 weeks after installation, it evaporates a small amount of a toxic substance;
ability to absorb moisture.

Do-it-yourself warming

If you adhere to the technological process and make the right choice of material, the installation is quite capable of doing it yourself.

Insulation of the ceiling inside the room using mineral wool

To complete the work, you will need material:

mineral wool;
metal profiles or wooden bars 150x30 mm;
hardware;
vapor barrier film;
staples;
mounting foam;
dowels with a wide hat;
drywall.

Set of tools:

perforator;
roulette;
hammer;
screwdriver;
scissors;
construction knife.

Installation steps

On the ceiling, make a crate of their wooden bars or a metal profile in increments of 50 cm.
Cut the insulation to the size of the crate cell with an increase of 2 cm on the sides.
Lay mineral wool in the cells without tamping it.
Treat the joints of the insulation with mounting foam for sealing. The foam will also serve as resistance to the shrinkage of the insulation.
Cover the surface with a vapor barrier film. The joints of the material should overlap by 10 cm. Using staples, fix the film to the crate.
Finish the ceiling using drywall sheets.

Ceiling insulation in the attic using foam

Materials required for installation:

foam sheets 40 mm thick;
mounting foam;
OSB sheets 15-18 mm;
hardware.

Tools:

drill;
hacksaw;
hammer;
metalwork knife;
screwdriver.

Installation steps

Clear the attic of debris. If there are damaged spots or holes, repair them with a cement or gypsum mixture.
Put the foam on the surface, tightly docking with each other.
Process the connecting seams with mounting foam.
Cover the top with OSB sheets (15-18 mm) or boards.

If you plan to use the attic as an attic, the insulated surface must be filled with a cement screed, at least 5 cm thick. Reinforcing mesh must be used.

Insulation in the attic using foam sheets must be supplemented with a finish in the form of a screed or wooden boards. Unprotected foam is subject to mechanical damage that will affect its functionality.
Thermal insulation from the outside is easier and more economical.
Mineral wool must not be compressed. Losing structure, it loses valuable properties.
Built-in lamps in the insulated ceiling should be mounted with a fence from the material with plasterboard inserts at a distance of 2-3 cm.
To increase thermal protection, you can lay the attic in a complex way: with foam plastic and mineral wool. Layers of insulation should resemble brickwork.
Use a marked film for vapor barrier. The use of ordinary polyethylene is not allowed.
When using penofol for insulation in the attic, lay the foil down.

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house

The difference between the methods lies in the installation technology and the materials used:

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside is accompanied by subsequent surface finishing with drywall or other suspended structures. It should be noted that the height of the room after installation will decrease from 10 to 25 cm. The material used must have vapor-permeable properties. These can be: mineral or basalt wool, penofol.
External insulation of the ceiling is carried out in the attic. A more economical and profitable option, since it does not require further finishing work, if the use of an attic room is not provided. It is recommended to use a vapor barrier material to prevent moisture from reaching the ceiling. Most often used: foam, penoizol, mineral wool, expanded clay.

The choice of insulation

The main requirements that a heater must meet:

do not emit toxic substances;
be resistant to moisture;
have a low flammability.

Popular materials for home energy saving work

Rocks endow the material with valuable qualities:

low degree of thermal conductivity;
resistance to temperature changes;
lack of flammability;
ecological feature.

And yet the material has disadvantages:

ability to absorb moisture;
during installation, be sure to use a waterproofing film;
additionally process the seams of the joints with mounting foam for better sealing;
for fixing the insulation, a crate is made of a wooden bar or profiles;
relatively short service life (10-15 years).

Along with the advantages, there are also disadvantages:

flexible surface means finishing the ceiling with a suspended structure with a frame;
it is problematic to fix the material on some surfaces;
to increase thermal protection, it is recommended to use mineral wool.

The advantages are:

moisture resistance;
good thermal conductivity;
light weight, excluding structural reinforcement;
simple installation.

The disadvantages include:

easy flammability;
instability to the effects of ultraviolet rays and solvents;
low resistance to mechanical damage.

Penoizol is a liquid foamed foam. To insulate the ceiling from the outside, it is necessary to use special equipment for applying a binder to the surface.

Material advantages:

affordable price;
thermal insulation qualities;
resistance to ignition;
easily fills hard-to-reach places;
safe operation.

Flaws:

lack of special equipment excludes self-assembly;
low resistance to mechanical stress;
the first 2-3 weeks after installation, it evaporates a small amount of a toxic substance;
ability to absorb moisture.

Do-it-yourself warming

If you adhere to the technological process and make the right choice of material, the installation is quite capable of doing it yourself.

Insulation of the ceiling inside the room using mineral wool

To complete the work, you will need material:

mineral wool;
metal profiles or wooden bars 150x30 mm;
hardware;
vapor barrier film;
staples;
dowels with a wide hat;
drywall.

Set of tools:

perforator;
roulette;
hammer;
screwdriver;
scissors;
construction knife.

Installation steps

On the ceiling, make a crate of their wooden bars or a metal profile in increments of 50 cm.
Cut the insulation to the size of the crate cell with an increase of 2 cm on the sides.
Lay mineral wool in the cells without tamping it.
Treat the joints of the insulation with mounting foam for sealing. The foam will also serve as resistance to the shrinkage of the insulation.
Cover the surface with a vapor barrier film. The joints of the material should overlap by 10 cm. Using staples, fix the film to the crate.
Finish the ceiling using drywall sheets.

Ceiling insulation in the attic using foam

Materials required for installation:

foam sheets 40 mm thick;
mounting foam;
OSB sheets 15-18 mm;
hardware.

Tools:

drill;
hacksaw;
hammer;
metalwork knife;
screwdriver.

Installation steps

Clear the attic of debris. If there are damaged spots or holes, repair them with a cement or gypsum mixture.
Put the foam on the surface, tightly docking with each other.
Process the connecting seams with mounting foam.
Cover the top with OSB sheets (15-18 mm) or boards.

If you plan to use the attic as an attic, the insulated surface must be filled with a cement screed, at least 5 cm thick. Reinforcing mesh must be used.

Insulation in the attic using foam sheets must be supplemented with a finish in the form of a screed or wooden boards. Unprotected foam is subject to mechanical damage that will affect its functionality.
Thermal insulation from the outside is easier and more economical.
Mineral wool must not be compressed. Losing structure, it loses valuable properties.
Built-in lamps in the insulated ceiling should be mounted with a fence from the material with plasterboard inserts at a distance of 2-3 cm.
To increase thermal protection, you can lay the attic in a complex way: with foam plastic and mineral wool. Layers of insulation should resemble brickwork.
Use a marked film for vapor barrier. The use of ordinary polyethylene is not allowed.
When using penofol for insulation in the attic, lay the foil down.

Any area of a private house, whether it be walls, floors or ceilings, must be properly insulated. Depending on the quality of the work performed, the cost of energy resources for heating will decrease or increase accordingly. Warming is carried out with accompanying insulating layers - a residential object will emit moisture, steam.

The following describes how to insulate the ceiling in a private house with your own hands, the criteria for choosing the best insulation and a detailed installation guide for home craftsmen - independent work will significantly save the family budget.

Why insulate the ceiling

The concept of heat loss at home is especially relevant for private facilities, in contrast to multi-apartment municipal housing. A separate house must be insulated from all sides, since there are no “neighbors” and there is no constant maintenance of an acceptable climate. If you insulate only the walls and floor, and at the same time ignore the ceiling, then the owners will not receive proper comfort, but astronomical resource bills - please. Why?

From heating radiators, warm air rises, mixing with cold air and the reverse process occurs. If the streams linger at the ceiling for a long time, heating it, then it will take much more time to reach a comfortable temperature, which results in an increase in the amount of firewood, gas, and electricity. Corresponding and costs.

The insulated ceiling, on the contrary, does not need heating, since the space of the room is reliably separated by insulating layers from the attic. Therefore, the temperature exchange will be faster. So, the importance of insulating the ceiling space is clear and not discussed.

How to insulate the ceiling qualitatively and inexpensively

The construction industry offered a lot of options for heaters. The price aspect should not be put at the forefront of the question - how to insulate the ceiling, because we are talking about our own comfort.

Let's analyze some of the materials traditionally used for ceiling insulation:

Mineral or basalt wool. Unlike its predecessor - glass wool - it is convenient to work with it. It does not prick, does not emit any odors. Its thickness is sufficient for one contour of insulation. Available in convenient forms - mats, rolls. For a private house, it has the main advantage of incombustibility - it does not even smolder. The price is perfectly acceptable.

However, this type of insulation has a serious drawback in the form of hygroscopicity and caking. Even a small amount of moisture that has got inside the insulation mat can expose large spaces, which makes the idea of warming with wool lost.

If, nevertheless, the owners choose this option, they should reliably insulate, waterproof the roof and cover the wool with multi-layer protective layers, since the resulting condensate can form in a cold attic room, encountering warm flows from the insulated ceiling.

Expanded clay. Mineral building material is successful for insulation, however, it is worth knowing that in a cold region at least 50 mm of a layer is required, and given the additional insulation, the weight of the insulation will affect the load-bearing capacity of wooden floors. It is better to use a mineral for floor insulation.

sawdust and clay. In the old days they used just such materials, there were no others. However, they performed well. Parts of sawdust and dry crushed or powdered clay were mixed and poured into wooden ceiling boxes. There are some disadvantages of the method - sawdust attracts mice and absorbs moisture. Therefore, before backfilling, insulation work is carried out, the raw materials are dried or even calcined in the sun, mixed with slaked lime or carbide.

In addition to the biological threat, susceptibility to mold and mildew, sawdust is flammable. They are sprinkled with a layer of spent slag and reliably protect the boxes from direct proximity to the chimney - its hot bricks can make them smolder, and then ignite the entire mass. Many craftsmen use sawdust in combination with cement, however, as in the case of expanded clay, the layer turns out to be heavy - the use is impractical.

It is important to remember that the materials are not combustible, but smoldering and releasing dangerous gases into the atmosphere.

Sprayed materials - ecowool, expanded polystyrene. The first option is absolutely environmentally friendly, as it is cellulose. The second is an analogue of styrene plates. Self-spraying is possible, but expensive - the cylinders are not very capacious. It is better to order the service of professionals. The advantage of sprayed insulation in quality is that not a single centimeter of area will be missed. In addition, the materials are not combustible and have good adhesion to surfaces. Arranging sprayed insulation means completely eliminating cold bridges in the house.

But there is also a drawback - the impermeability of steam. You will have to create high-quality ventilation, otherwise the microclimate at home will become uncomfortable, and in some cases unsuitable for living. The consequences of condensate settling on the walls are known - mold, dampness.

Plaster insulation mixes. In private homes, they are not popular, as they require a large preparatory base. However, for non-wooden objects, such an application is advisable - the application of the plaster immediately takes on a decorative finish or becomes the base for another coating.

Cork. Decorative environmentally friendly material. Expensive. Wood, as you know, is a warm raw material, but, nevertheless, capricious - it burns, becomes moldy, and is a delicacy for the beetle. Warming can occur without hydro and vapor barrier, which is mandatory for all materials, since the raw material itself has sufficient throughput. The decorative look will allow you to combine practicality with design.

The list is incomplete, however, it includes popular materials for insulation. All others are based on them. Prices vary, but you should not chase cheapness. It is better to consider the possibility of self-laying for each type - the savings on invited teams are significant.

Ways to insulate ceilings in a private house

There are only two of them - insulation of the ceiling from the outside and from the inside.

Consider the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Insulation of the ceiling from the outside

Laying insulation from the side of the attic, the home master leaves the height of the room unchanged, which, of course, will have a positive effect on the number of useful meters. In addition, it is always convenient to work from above rather than from below - pour expanded clay, tightly lay mats and slabs. However, this method of insulation always involves the mandatory protection of the roof, otherwise the occurrence of condensate from temperature changes is inevitable.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside

Internal insulation allows you to extend the durability of the material - dryness, ventilation of space, absence of temperature changes. However, you will have to steal height meters.
It is logical to assume that it is best to use the first option to insulate the ceiling. In addition, then the attic becomes suitable for residential use. It is important to remember that the stacked cake must have good vapor barrier.

We insulate the ceiling of a frame house with our own hands

The principles of laying any insulation are the same. Let's consider the whole process using the example of using basalt wool according to the first method - from the outside.

What will be required:

vapor barrier. This is a foil membrane. It is laid with the metallized side out.
Waterproofing. In this capacity, PVC film or rolled rubber acts.
Drywall. It is laid from the inside. It will become the base for the subsequent finishing.
Acquired accordingly aluminum profiles and movable brackets– we must not forget about shrinkage processes.
insulation. The selected mineral wool is purchased immediately in mats so that it is convenient to lay it.
Edged board.

From tools: stapler, screwdriver, fasteners, circular saws or jigsaws. You will need a stepladder, even if the installation takes place from above - a rigid frame is attached from below.

Where to start with ceiling insulation

The work begins with an assessment of wooden floors, even if the house was built recently. Found foci of damage are destroyed, and then all the wood is impregnated with protective compounds - there will be no more such an opportunity.

frame for insulation

From below, an edged board is stuffed onto the ceiling beams to form boxes. You can not use unskinned croaker - this is bait for the beetle.

Ceiling vapor barrier

A steam membrane is laid over the board. It is fixed with a stapler, the joints will overlap. The seams must be taped with adhesive tape to exclude even the possibility of moisture ingress.

Sheathing the frame and laying insulation

Then brackets are installed, and a metal frame for drywall is fixed on them. The necessary communications are laid through it - electrical wires, lighting cartridges - and then the GKL space is sewn up. Internal work completed.

Cotton mats are placed in boxes made of beams and edged boards. It is important not to allow too tight entry or chatter.

Waterproofing

Attach waterproofing. You should also glue the seams and joints with construction tape.
Install floors. Usually this is a grooved board. If the attic space will be used for residential purposes, multilayer plywood is placed on the subfloor and decorated with a topcoat - linoleum, laminate. Even scraped boards are beautiful on their own.

That's actually the whole process. An easy, safe and, most importantly, effective way to reduce the amount of heat loss and create a comfortable stay for yourself and your household. The benefits of ceiling insulation can be calculated in advance - it will pleasantly surprise the owners of a private house.

27 December, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

Whatever efforts we make to insulate the walls and floor of the dwelling, a huge part of the heat energy loss falls on the upper part of the room. Therefore, it's time to talk about how to insulate the ceiling in a private house.

Today I will tell you the best way to insulate an attic beam ceiling in a wooden house, and I will also describe in detail the technology for laying heat-insulating material inside the house in the country. The article shows the most effective, in my opinion, scheme, when a vapor barrier membrane is installed from the inside, and the main insulation from the outside. But about everything in due time.

The choice of material for work

To begin with, I want to figure out with you how you can insulate a ceiling constructed from floor beams. If you study the advice of heating professionals, you can see that each of them offers different materials: expanded clay, polystyrene, perlite, polyurethane foam, and so on.

But from the whole variety of heat-insulating materials for warming a wooden ceiling, I suggest using basalt wool. In my opinion, this is the best choice if you decide how to insulate the ceiling from the outside along the logs. In support of what has been said, I cite the most important technical characteristics of this material.

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The coefficient of thermal conductivity of basalt wool is approximately 0.035 W / (m * K). Therefore, for effective thermal insulation, it is sufficient to use a layer 10 cm thick. That is, the insulation boards will just fit into the gaps between the support beams.
High vapor permeability	The vapor permeability coefficient of the described insulation with a density of 50 kg per m3 is 0.6 mg / (m * h * Pa), which is more than that of wood. Consequently, the thermal insulation layer will not prevent air infiltration through the walls, moisture will evaporate from the floor beams. This will have a beneficial effect on the microclimate in the house, and on the integrity of the building envelope.
Low hygroscopicity	In direct contact with a liquid, the material absorbs no more than 2% of its own volume of moisture. That is, if water gets on the ceiling (ceiling on the reverse side) due to a leaking roof, the liquid will not reduce the performance of the heat-shielding layer.
High fire safety	According to the current classification of building materials, basalt mats are classified as NG. The insulation does not ignite under the action of an open flame, does not contribute to the spread of fire and does not emit toxic smoke. This is very important for a dwelling built of wood.
High sound insulation	The open structure of mineral mats (in contrast to foam) contributes to a very effective absorption of sound waves of structural and air origin. When using basalt insulation for thermal insulation of the ceiling, the inhabitants of the upper and lower floors will not hear each other's conversation, and the people below will not suffer from the rumble of furniture moving upstairs and careless steps.
biological neutrality	The insulation has antiseptic properties; mold, fungus and other microorganisms do not form on its surface and inside. As a result, wooden floor beams will be reliably protected from rot, which will extend their service life.
Ease	The insulation is a porous material, therefore it is light in weight. The thermal insulation layer on the ceiling (even with additional hydro and vapor barrier membranes) will not exert a large load on the floor beams, load-bearing walls and foundation.
Ease of installation	All work on the installation of basalt insulation is carried out manually. To do this, you do not need compressors and other mechanisms (as is the case with PPU). In addition, its use eliminates the use of "wet" construction processes, so you can work even at negative air temperatures.
Long service life	Basalt mats will retain their original technical characteristics for as long as the ceiling beams themselves. At the same time, the insulation does not shrink, forming islands of cold and reducing the efficiency of the heat-insulating layer.

A small fly in the ointment in this barrel of honey is the high price of insulation. However, taking into account all the performance characteristics listed above, I believe that this is the best material for thermal insulation of the ceiling in a frame or log house from the outside.

For work, I will use basalt wool slabs manufactured by Knauf Insulation TeploKrovlya Expert. They are cut into pieces 1200 by 610 mm in size, that is, with a distance between the beams of 600 mm, the insulation will fit back to back without forming gaps. The thickness of the material is 50 mm, since I will put it in two layers with alternating joints. One package is enough for 18.3 m2 of surface (but keep in mind that you will have to put in two layers).

Now you know how to insulate the ceiling. However, in addition to mineral mats, other materials with tools will also be needed. I will list them in the next section.

Necessary tools and materials

In addition to the insulation itself, you will need to stock up on other materials:

Vapor barrier membrane. This polymer film does not allow water vapor formed in the room as a result of human activity to penetrate into the insulation, causing the latter to become wet. It is better not to use impervious films, as all the benefits of breathable mineral wool are lost. An excellent manufacturer of vapor barrier membranes is Juta.

waterproofing film. A waterproof membrane that protects the insulation layer from moisture as a result of water getting inside the insulation cake due to a leaky roof or for other subjective reasons.

Plywood. With it, I will hem the floor beams from below, that is, glued veneer sheets will support the mineral mats between the rafters. Instead of plywood, you can use a board, GKL, GVL, lining and other similar materials. The thickness of the sheets is 10 mm, the brand is ordinary FK (you can use moisture-resistant PSF, but it has a higher level of formaldehyde emission).
Polyurethane adhesive for insulation. Sold in bottles, applied with a mounting gun. It is needed only in order to, if necessary, seal the joints of thermal insulation sheets. Since I have everything calculated exactly, and the mineral wool is laid in two layers, it is practically not necessary to use foam.
Wooden bars with a section of 5 by 5 cm. They are useful for mounting a counter-lattice from the outside of the ceiling, since a ventilation gap must be left between the insulation and the decorative material on top to remove moisture. Choose high-quality lumber, the dimensions of which are the same along the entire length, otherwise you will not be able to make a flat floor.
Grooved board. The attic above the ceiling in my case will be used as a residential attic. Therefore, I will make the floor (that is, the ceiling on the reverse side) strong and reliable from a grooved board. If you have just an attic there, you can limit yourself to plywood.
Fire and bioprotective impregnation for wood. This substance will need to process the floor beams and bars used for mounting the crate. The liquid will increase the fire safety of a wooden structure, destroy microorganisms and protect the enclosing structures from biocorrosion. You can use, for example, Bastion liquid, which, among other things, has hydrophobic properties.

As for the tools, the main ones are a screwdriver for tightening self-tapping screws, a stapler for fixing films and a saw for cutting plywood and foam. Everything else is the usual set of plumbing fixtures, available in the arsenal of even a novice specialist.

Well, now it's time to move on to the story of how to properly insulate the ceiling in a wooden dwelling.

Warming technology

Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation in a private house is carried out in several steps. All of them are shown in the diagram below.

I will try to describe each of them in as much detail as possible.

Floor preparation

Insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house begins with the preparation of the ceiling, which in my case is a set of load-bearing beams (from bars with a section of 50 by 100 mm) installed at a distance of 60 cm from each other.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

I carry out the processing of load-bearing beams. Several important tasks need to be solved at once:
- Check the integrity of structural elements, remove damaged areas and replace defective fragments. If the beams are not new, they must be cleaned of mold and mildew with sandpaper and a grinder. Damaged sections are cut out and replaced with new fragments, and I advise you to completely change the heavily worn beams for new ones. Otherwise, the life of the insulated ceiling will not be very long.

Treat the beams with fire protection. To do this, the primer antiseptic composition of your choice is diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the package, after which the ceiling beams are covered with it. It is best to work with a brush-brush, carefully rubbing the fire protection into the wooden surface (it should be well saturated).

I carry out the installation of engineering communications in the ceiling. Most often (as in my case) these are three separate systems - ventilation, electricity and a chimney passage. Each has some minor features:
- I recommend insulating ventilation pipes (made of thin-walled metal or plastic) with polyethylene foam cylinders or mineral mats. This will improve the efficiency of the system and reduce the noise generated by the airflow.

Electric wires in the ceiling of a wooden house (if you prefer hidden wiring) must be carried out in special metal or plastic fireproof channels. The latter prevent the ignition of the ceiling and the further spread of fire in the event of a short circuit.

The intersection of the chimney pipe and the ceiling of a wooden house must be carefully protected with non-combustible fireproof material. I made a square box out of tin, which I mounted in the ceiling. Then the inside of the box was covered with expanded clay, which excluded the contact of the hot pipe with the boards and plywood of the ceiling.

Having completed the preparation of the wooden ceiling supports, you can go down to the living rooms, as further work will be carried out from inside the house.

Works indoors

From the bottom of the ceiling, we need to solve two problems - to exclude the moistening of mineral mats by water vapor dissolved in the air and to provide a reliable support for basalt fiber slabs (their installation procedure is described in the next section).

Therefore, the workflow will be as follows:

I fix a vapor barrier membrane on the floor beams. For this, as you already know, Juta vapor barrier film is used. The sequence of actions is as follows:
- I roll out the first roll of insulating membrane, after which I fix it to the bottom of the beams using a construction stapler and staples. It is not necessary to pull it strongly, especially if the work is carried out in the warm season. The film should sag 1 cm every meter. In this case, after cooling (in winter), it will not tear.

The second and subsequent rolls of the vapor barrier layer must be fixed in such a way that their edges form an overlap of 10 cm wide. This is necessary to ensure the tightness of the joints.
After processing the entire ceiling, the joints of the individual sheets must be glued with adhesive tape. The result should be a picture similar to the one shown in this photo.

I install the bars of the counter-lattice. With their help, a ventilation gap is formed between the film and the decorative material (in my case -), which will help to remove the moisture concentrated there.
- The lumber that I will use for work is pre-treated with a fire retardant and an antiseptic (in one bottle). It is better to do this outdoors and bring it inside after the protective composition is completely absorbed into the surface and dries.

Directly through the vapor barrier membrane, using self-tapping screws, I fasten the bars to the supporting joists of the ceiling so that the parts are perpendicular to each other. The distance between adjacent elements is about 40 cm. Thus, the bars will form a gap and serve as a support for the mineral wool insulation boards laid in the sphere.

Between individual bars, as well as at the walls, gaps of 3-5 mm should be made, which are necessary to compensate for the possible thermal expansion of the bars.

I hem the ceiling from below with sheets of birch plywood. I use this material because of the characteristics of the subsequent decorative finish. However, you can replace it with other suitable sheet or rack products. The scheme for mounting plywood is as follows:
- I cut the sheets of material into parts of the required dimensions in such a way that after fixing the counter-lattice on the bars, there is a gap between the wall and the plywood. Through it, the condensed moisture will be removed from the air gap.

I fix the plywood on the bars of the crate. For this, black self-tapping screws are perfect, which are protected from corrosion. The distance between the screws is 20 cm. They need to be screwed along the edge of the plywood sheets and in the middle, attracting the material to the supporting elements. There should be a distance of a few millimeters between plywood sheets to compensate for thermal expansion.

After that, you can finish work inside the living space and move to the attic, where the insulation will be laid.

Works in the attic

It is much easier to work from the outside of the attic floor than from the inside. The fact is that in this case you do not have to come up with various tricks to fix the mineral mats. They are easy and simple to lay on a horizontal surface and do not sag.

The detailed workflow looks like this:

I lay mineral mats between the floor joists. It is done like this:
- Basalt fiber slabs are cut to size. I have the distance between the lags exactly equal to the width of the slab minus 1 cm (the slab is 61 cm, the beams are located at a distance of 60 cm from each other). That is, the thermal insulation will become a surprise without the formation of cold bridges. If you need to customize the dimensions, then for this I recommend using a file with fine teeth or a sharp stationery knife with interchangeable blades.

The first layer of insulation is laid on a vapor barrier film and bars of a counter-lattice fixed on the lower plane of the ceiling. It is necessary to fit the heat-insulating mats to each other as tightly as possible so that cold bridges do not form along the seams. Then the second layer is placed on top so that the gaps are interspersed with an offset of 15-20 cm relative to each other.

Joints between mineral wool boards can be filled with polyurethane foam adhesive. It glues the insulation fibers together and forms a homogeneous heat-insulating layer, which excludes unproductive losses of thermal energy.

Installing a waterproofing membrane. It is necessary to use a special polymer film, and not ordinary polyethylene. The latter stops air infiltration through the ceiling, which negates all the advantages of using wood, mineral wool and other "breathable" materials. The scheme is as follows:
- The membrane is rolled out over the insulation in such a way that the edges of one roll are located on the edges of the other, forming an overlap of 10 cm wide.

After that, the film is fixed on wooden parts using staples and a construction stapler. It is not necessary to stretch the material too much so that it does not tear in winter. But there is no need to leave a lot of slack, otherwise the polymer film will rustle during operation.
The joints of adjacent elements of the waterproof layer are sealed with adhesive tape. The film must form an impermeable layer to prevent water from entering the surface of the basalt mats.
The film should lie on the surface of the basalt insulation. If its thickness is not enough to fill the vertical space between the beams, then the membrane must be lowered down and fixed on the side surfaces of the supporting elements using wooden blocks.

I fasten the bars of the counter-lattice to the beams. It is necessary when you are going to lay decorative material on top (in my case, a tongue-and-groove board for the floor in the attic). It is done like this:
- Wooden beams with a section of 5 by 5 cm are screwed onto the beams over the waterproofing. They must be placed perpendicular to the direction in which the boards will be laid. You can fix the crate with self-tapping screws.
- To avoid warping of the coating, I recommend not to install the bars close to the walls of the attic and to each other. Small seams a few millimeters wide will help compensate for the thermal expansion of the material.
I lay a tongue-and-groove board on top. I took this material

On this, the process of insulating the ceiling can be considered complete.

Summary

Now you know how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with mineral wool. But there are other, cheaper ways to insulate. Instructions on how to use expanded clay for this purpose are set out in the video in this article. And you can read about how to insulate a wooden ceiling from the inside (if there is no access to it from the attic), you can read in my other articles on this site.

You can leave your opinion about the information contained in the material in the comments below.

In the conditions of the Russian winter, the insulation of the ceiling in a private house is far from the last issue. To save on heating costs, it is important to minimize the heat loss that occurs through all building envelopes of the house - windows, walls, doors, ceiling. Homeowners try to install high-quality windows and doors, they insulate the walls, but they often forget about the ceiling. Meanwhile, up to 20% of heat can escape through this enclosing structure!

Everyone who remembers school physics lessons and knows that warm air rises according to natural laws, and then it comes into contact with the cold surface of an uninsulated ceiling. As a result, condensation forms, that is, the humidity of the air in the upper part of the room increases. Of course, this does not benefit the health of the household, because dampness can provoke the formation of mold. Therefore, the issue of insulation should be puzzled by every owner of a private house.

General rules for insulation

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool

When looking for materials that can be used to insulate the ceiling in a private house, several effective solutions are possible:

Expanded clay. This is a loose insulation, a lightweight, absolutely non-combustible material that is made on the basis of clay. The material is environmentally friendly, not afraid of moisture, has good thermal insulation characteristics, rodents and pests do not start in it.
Mineral wool. This is perhaps the most popular option for insulation, has excellent thermal insulation qualities. The disadvantages include hygroscopicity, this material should be carefully protected from moisture.
Ecowool. Cellulose-based material, environmentally friendly, has excellent thermal insulation properties.
Styrofoam. Lightweight polymer material. Fireproof, easy to use, not afraid of moisture.
Penoizol. This is a porous polymer material for insulation with an unlimited service life.

Ways to insulate the ceiling in the house

The choice of material is also connected with the method that will be used for insulation. Warming can be done in two ways:

From inside the room.
From the side of the attic.

It should be noted that both methods are able to provide a decent level of insulation, so you need to choose the one that will be more convenient to perform.

Methods differ in technology and types of materials used. In order not to make a mistake when answering the question, how to insulate the ceiling is better , it is worth remembering an immutable rule: if insulation is made from the inside, then a vapor-permeable insulation should be chosen. In the event that the insulation is carried out from the side of the attic or outside the private house, then a material with vapor-tight properties should be purchased.

How to perform insulation from the inside of the room?

As a rule, ceiling insulation from the inside of the room is combined with the construction of suspended or stretch ceilings. In this case, the insulation is placed in the space between the ceiling plate and the installed coating.

When insulating the ceiling of the house from the inside of the room, most homeowners choose mineral insulation, which is available in the form of rolls or mats.

If you plan to arrange it in the house, then first they assemble a frame from a metal profile for fixing drywall (or other material that is planned to sheathe the ceiling). Then, layers of insulation are glued in the space between the profiles.

Advice! It is convenient to use tile adhesive for sticking mineral insulation, it sets quickly and holds the material well.

In the event that they are installed, the frame will have to be assembled specifically for laying the insulation. It is convenient to do this from a bar.

Advice! In no case should mineral wool be compacted during installation, since its heat-insulating properties depend on the presence of air gaps between the fibers.

A separate issue is the installation of lamps. The fact is that even modern lamps heat up a little during operation, and the presence of insulation on the ceiling does not allow heat to escape freely. As a result, the lamps burn out quickly. Therefore, you should either cut out the insulation in the area of \u200b\u200bthe lamp, or leave an air gap between the insulation layer and the ceiling sheathing material. The first method reduces the effectiveness of insulation, and the second requires a significant lowering of the ceiling level.

Advice! There is another way to solve the problem with lamps - do not use recessed ones, but install the most ordinary chandeliers and sconces.

Ceiling insulation from the attic

This option is the most efficient. Consider how you can insulate the ceiling from the outside of the room? Almost any type of insulation is perfect here. However, if it is decided to use mineral wool, then a layer of vapor barrier film should be laid in front of it.

When using layers of mineral wool or foam, the material is placed in the gaps between the timber frame bars. When using polystyrene, the joints should be sealed with mounting foam.

If the attic is planned to be used, then a floor should be made on top of the laid insulation by performing a screed or arranging the floor on logs.

conclusions

So, taking up the insulation of the ceiling in a private house with your own hands , First of all, you should decide which side of the ceiling will be insulated. Then you can choose a heater from the options above.

In cold climates, it is very important to insulate your home well. Usually, attention is paid to the floor, walls, windows, but not the ceiling - and after all, up to 15% of heat can escape through it.

How to choose a material for insulation

Often the question arises as to how to insulate the ceiling of the house. The choice of material depends, first of all, on the climate of the region. The most common insulation is mineral wool, which has excellent thermal insulation properties. If the outdoor temperature does not fall below -35 degrees, then this material will be the best choice.

Mineral wool is made (see photo) from artificial fibers of mineral origin. Limestone, basalt, dolomite, diabase are used for its production. The highest quality insulation is obtained if only rocks are used in the manufacturing process. The advantages of mineral wool include fire resistance, durability, low hygroscopicity.

Ecowool - cellulose insulation, installed using special equipment. The composition of the material includes thin wood fibers formed during the processing of waste paper, and special antiseptics. Ecowool has only been used for a couple of decades, but thanks to its ability to fill empty space, it is becoming increasingly popular. Its disadvantages include the impossibility of independent use - for work it is necessary to call specialists, as well as a significant amount of dust in case of dry installation. The advantages of the material are excellent thermal insulation properties, environmental friendliness and affordable price.

When choosing how to insulate the ceiling of a house, one should not forget about other widespread heaters - foam plastic, penoizol (in more detail: "").

Styrofoam is obtained by creating foam from different types of plastics. It contains a large amount of air, making it a lightweight material that is convenient for installation and transportation. It has excellent heat-insulating and sound-absorbing properties. In addition, it is convenient to work with foam - it is easily cut and can be attached to any surface.

Penoizol is a liquid foam, the advantage of which is its low price. It also fills any spaces, thereby reliably protecting the home from the cold. But for its use it is necessary to have special equipment, so you have to trust specialists to work with this material. Penoizol is recommended to be used for warming rooms of a large area.

As for how you can insulate the ceiling in cold regions, where the temperature in winter can be less than -35 degrees, then this is expanded clay. It is made of clay by firing, is resistant to low temperatures and well protects against heat loss.

Tools for the job

To carry out work on the insulation of a small house (for example, a summer house), you will need the following tools:

metalwork knife;
hacksaw;
jigsaw;
hammer.

If the insulation of a private house, cottage will be carried out, then it is better to purchase such power tools:

You also need to think about fasteners. The most affordable and easy to use are ordinary nails, but if you need to insulate the ceiling of a large area, it will be more convenient to use self-tapping screws or screws. Using a screwdriver or an electric drill to tighten them, you can save time and effort.

During operation, you will also need mounting foam and double-sided tape. The joints between the insulation plates and other cavities are filled with foam, which rapidly increases in volume.

To fix the waterproofing layer, wooden slats are used. It is recommended to prepare them in advance. Their size should be 10x20 (25) millimeters. After the ceiling is insulated, the floor is usually laid in the attic. The simplest flooring is made from boards 120-150 centimeters long and 25-30 centimeters wide. If the attic will be used as a living space, then more expensive coverage can be made.

How to insulate the ceiling in the house, detailed video:

Work process

Having chosen the best way to insulate the ceiling and having prepared everything you need, they begin to create thermal insulation.

Mineral wool can be replaced with ecowool, and polystyrene can be replaced with penoizol. But in this case, you will have to involve specialists in the work. It is difficult to say what is better to insulate the ceiling in the country - it depends on the design features of the ceiling, financial capabilities and the required degree of thermal insulation.

Insulation of the ceiling in a private house can significantly reduce the amount of heat loss during the cold period and significantly improve the microclimate in the premises in summer. High-quality thermal insulation will give you, in addition to increasing comfort, tangible savings in the family budget for heating. The costs associated with the purchase of insulation will pay off in 2-3 years.

In addition to reducing the cost of heating a house, floor insulation solves a number of other problems. By preventing the entry of warm air into the attic, the insulating structure prevents the accumulation of water vapor and moisture in the under-roof space, which damage the rafters and floor beams. In addition, insulation helps to avoid melting snow on the roof and the formation of large icicles, which are very dangerous during thaws. When organizing a living space in the attic, the soundproofing function is very useful. In any case, ceiling insulation is a necessary measure for a private house.

Carrying out work on the insulation of the ceiling is quite within the power of any home master. Installation requires a minimum level of initial training of the performer. The tips below will help you avoid common mistakes and get the job done quickly and effortlessly. By carefully planning the workflow and preparing the necessary materials in the right quantity in time, you will save your time, nerves and transportation costs. Let's consider in detail how to properly insulate the ceiling in a private house.

Where to insulate the ceiling: inside or outside

Insulation of the ceiling in a private house can be carried out both from the inside and outside. Both options give pretty good results. They differ in the materials used and the methods of their installation, so each master chooses the most convenient option for himself under specific living conditions, taking into account economic feasibility.

Attic floor insulation options

With an external version of insulation, thermal insulation is laid in the attic. If the attic space is not used, then the insulation does not need decorative trim, which distinguishes this option from the previous one. In addition, it is much more convenient to work with external insulation.

Internal insulation involves fastening heat-insulating materials to the inner surface of the ceiling and mounting suspended structures made of drywall, plastic, wood, etc. It should be borne in mind that with internal insulation, 15-20 cm of the height of the room is lost. Therefore, if your ceiling is at or below 2.5 m, then you should give preference to insulation from the attic.

Internal insulation is worth choosing if you are going to make repairs and plan to install a false ceiling. In all other cases, preference should be given to external insulation.

The choice of material for thermal insulation

The following heat-insulating materials are popular for warming private houses:

Styrofoam;
Styrofoam;
Penoizol;
Polyurethane foam;
Penofol;
Mineral wool;
Basalt wool;
Ecowool;
Expanded clay;
Sawdust;
Vermiculite;
Dry grass, needles, reeds.

External insulation with foam or polystyrene foam is perhaps one of the cheapest and most affordable ways. This task is quite easy to do on your own. The materials are resistant to moisture, do not rot, do not burn, but melt during a fire, releasing acrid poisonous smoke. Expanded polystyrene essentially consists of the same material as polystyrene, only it is made in a slightly different way. The main disadvantages are the release of poisonous phosgene gas during combustion and a relatively short service life (up to 10 years). When using them, it is necessary to pay increased attention to fire safety.

Penoizol - liquid foam. Does not burn, vapor-permeable, biologically stable, superior to polystyrene in terms of thermal insulation properties. Manufacturers claim complete safety for humans after hardening. It is produced on site and laid using a special expensive installation, so the work is carried out only by specialized teams. Convenient and cost effective for large volumes.

Similarly, work is being done with polyurethane foam, which is synthesized from two liquid components. Depending on the proportion used, a polymer foam with different properties is obtained. The surface is covered with a continuous layer without joints, excluding the possibility of blowing cracks. The disadvantage is that toxic substances are released during combustion.

The process of pouring penoizol

Penofol - the made foam polyethylene covered with aluminum foil. Prevents the penetration of cold air, drafts and radon, reflects radiant heat into the room. The material is very light, does not create additional loads, works very well in combination with mineral wool. Due to its small thickness, it almost does not affect the height of the room.

Mineral wool contains mainly natural materials: sand, rocks or melts. Available in rolls and sheets of various sizes. It has good heat and sound insulation characteristics and an affordable price. It needs protection from moisture, as when wet it completely loses its thermal insulation properties. It is resistant to temperature extremes, restores its shape after a load, but becomes caked over time. The material, unlike glass wool, almost does not prick, but still requires the presence of protective equipment during operation. The main disadvantage is the content of phenol, which can easily penetrate the human skin.

Basalt wool is made from molten rocks. Produced in the form of mats and plates. It is characterized by resistance to loads and high temperatures, hydrophobicity, elasticity. The material is able to pass water vapor and does not allow them to accumulate inside, does not shrink and can withstand operation up to 70 years without loss of quality. Just like mineral wool, it contains phenolic binders, and the fibers can irritate the skin and mucous membranes.

When working indoors, cotton wool is usually used - mineral or basalt. This vapor permeable materials that allow the ceiling to "breathe".

Ecowool is a bulk material of natural origin, consists of 80% cellulose with borate additives, which protect it from easy ignition and decay. Laying work can be carried out wet using a special installation and dry manually. The manual method is extremely simple. It is enough to pour cotton wool between the lags on a pre-laid glassine and loosen it slightly. Ecowool increases in volume by 2-3 times. The recommended layer thickness is 30 cm. Thermal conductivity is the same as that of mineral wool, while ecowool is not afraid of moisture, prevents the development of fungi and mold. Serves more than 100 years.

It is possible to use cheap local materials for insulation of the attic floor, such as expanded clay, sawdust, hay, needles, reeds, clay and slag. Their cost is often only equal to the cost of delivery, but the thermal insulation properties are noticeably lower, and it is more difficult to lay them. Sawdust before laying needs special protective treatment. Otherwise, they can be damaged by rodents, rot and ignite very easily. Hay is a tempting place for a variety of small bugs and insects to settle. For a noticeable thermal insulation effect, all bulk heaters require a significant thickness - from 30 cm, which leads to a strong load on the floors.

Good results are obtained by combining sawdust with vermiculite. Both materials of natural origin, easily absorb moisture and easily give it away, maintaining optimal humidity. Vermiculite is made from hydromica and is considered an ideal bulk insulation with environmentally friendly properties. In terms of thermal conductivity, it is comparable to mineral wool. The only drawback of vermiculite is the price.

The laying of bulk insulation provides for their backfilling between the logs or bars of a specially made crate.

If the environmental friendliness of materials is fundamental for you, then you should opt for expanded clay or sawdust with vermiculite. If high thermal insulation properties and ease of installation are important, basalt wool is your choice.

Warming with basalt wool: step by step

Let us consider in detail how to do external insulation with your own hands using one of the most effective heaters - basalt wool.

Necessary materials:

Basalt wool slabs 100 mm thick;
vapor barrier film;
Waterproofing film;
foil tape;
Wooden beam;
Hardware.

Tools:

stapler;
Roulette;
Hacksaw or jigsaw;
Hammer;
Locksmith knife;
Screwdriver.

Step 1. First of all, you need to perform a thorough cleaning in the attic and create a flat surface for laying stone wool.
Step 2. If the attic is planned to be residential, then a wooden frame is laid for the future floor. The step between the lags is determined in accordance with the width of the insulation boards in order to ensure the tightest possible fit.

In the presence of wooden floor beams, the insulation is placed in the space between them. In case of insufficient height, additional bars are attached from above.

If the attic will not be operated, then this item can be skipped.

The height of the insulation depends on the climatic features of the area and the design of the roof. In most cases, it is optimal to use two layers of basalt wool 100 mm thick.

Step 3. The vapor barrier film is laid. If the floor is reinforced concrete, then this item can be skipped, since it has low vapor permeability.

Fastening to floor beams or logs is carried out using a construction stapler with wrapping edges. In new construction, the film is laid under the beams. The sheets are overlapped by 150 - 200 mm, fastened with moisture-resistant adhesive tape and must be wound onto the walls by at least 200 mm to guarantee the prevention of moisture penetration. The best option is to use foil material. In this case, the sheets are placed end-to-end with the foil down and glued with special adhesive tape.

Beams and logs are not covered with a vapor barrier film in order to avoid the accumulation of moisture in them and rapid decay.

Step 4. Sheets of basalt wool are laid on the vapor barrier film, avoiding gaps at the joints if possible. Gaps of 2-3 cm are left near the walls, which are not closed to ventilate the cotton wool.

Step 5. The second layer is laid with the maximum displacement of the seams. In cold climates, a third layer will not be superfluous. It is laid across the previous ones and eliminates all potential cold bridges.

For an attic floor that will not be used, you can stop there (unless, of course, the roof is leaking), or you can play it safe by following the recommendations of the next paragraph.

Step 6. A waterproofing film is laid to protect the wool from moisture ingress from above during operation.
Step 7. The structure is mounted to move around the attic.

For a residential attic, boards are laid and, if necessary, a finish coat; for a non-residential attic, it is enough to provide walkways for walking during technical inspection and maintenance of the roof.

Work is best done in the warm season - in summer or early autumn.

For external insulation, it is better to take vapor-tight materials to protect the ceiling from moisture, for internal - vapor permeable.

The more air the insulation contains, the more effective it is, so we must strive to ensure maximum “fluffiness” for materials such as mineral wool, ecowool, sawdust.

External insulation will always be cheaper and easier to perform.

With internal insulation of the ceiling and the use of some models of built-in ceiling lamps, the bulbs may often burn out due to the lack of heat removal. In this case, it is better to hang an ordinary traditional chandelier.

For vapor barrier, only a special film with the appropriate marking or glassine can be used; ordinary polyethylene cannot be used.

Penofol is always stacked with foil down.

You can perform complex insulation by combining different heaters.

When performing insulation with basalt wool, it is necessary to use a mask and protective clothing that completely covers the body.

Before starting work, you should carefully study the advantages and disadvantages of all available thermal insulation materials, analyze their operational capabilities, evaluate the costs and complexity of installation. Making a carefully considered decision and installing thermal insulation, taking into account the above recommendations, guarantees a safe and effectively insulated ceiling in a private house.