Make a knife sharpener. Knife sharpener - a necessary tool on the farm

Sharpening a knife is a task that every man has to face from time to time. In almost every home now you can find a grinding block familiar to everyone. However, this simple tool is not the only (and not the most convenient) way to sharpen kitchen knives.

If you do not want to buy a professional tool, you can make a simple but more effective grinding machine yourself if you want.

1 About the device of sharpening machines for knives

The main nuance that distinguishes a professional tool from an ordinary bar is more accurate work with the sharpening angle. It is the angle at which the cutting edge is sharpened that is the main requirement that affects the sharpness of the blade. If you calculate and achieve this angle correctly, even a homemade sharpener will allow you to sharpen knives to a razor sharpness.

A hand-held benchtop instrument of this type looks something like this:

Support part. "Sole", which is firmly attached to the table, and on which the other elements of the machine are located.

Place for attaching the knife.It is carried out in the form of a clamp.

Moving bar with fixed sanding bar. The stroke of the bar should be limited - so that the movement occurs in one plane, sharpening the knife at the desired angle.

A mechanism for adjusting the angle at which the bar can move.

Such devices (with fixing the blades of knives or scissors) are more convenient. More force can be applied in them, since it is more convenient to move the block than the knife.

Some machines are arranged the other way around - not a knife is attached to them, but a sharpening block, the angle of which can (or cannot) be changed. Such models are simpler, and in fact, they differ from an ordinary sharpening bar lying on the table only in the ability to precisely adjust and maintain the desired angle of inclination.

Such installations are suitable not only for knives - with their help, you can also sharpen straight scissors.

1.1 Overview of models

Before figuring out how to createdo-it-yourself knife sharpening machine -consider what models you can buy:

Lansky. It costs about $ 6 5-80. Has a clamp for knives (scissors), a bar - movable. Angle adjustment - from 17° to 30 °.
SpitJack. It costs about $ 40.
Aligner AKEFC. It costs about $ 90.
Ganzo Touch Pro. It costs about $ 90-100.
Apex 4 Kit Edge. It costs about $ 200-220. Suitable not only for kitchen knives and scissors, but also for hunting knives.
Ruixin ( Korean copies of the above Apex). They cost about $ 30-40.

In addition to the listed models, there is a considerable selection of other similar installations. The approximate price range of mid-range grinding machines is around $ 30.

Knife sharpener Chief "s Choice

You can find more convenient (but also more expensive) electric sharpeners. These include compact Chief "s Choice devices (models 312, 320, CH-310, 1520). They cost from $ 120 to $ 250-300, and allow sharpening at an angle of 20 °. Power consumption of installations - up to 150 watts. This electric flat knife sharpening machine is mainly used in the restaurant business, but for other products (scissors, hunting knives, etc.), such models are naturally not suitable.

In addition to electric models, Chief's Choice has similar mechanical devices. They are a sharpening block installed at a given angle in the case. The user just needs to slide a knife into a special slot - and that's all. Such models are cheaper than electric ones (about $ 40-50 ), and are also used mainly in the restaurant business, for kitchen knives.

2 Basic information for creating a homemade machine

Making an electric machine correctly is not a task for an amateur. But making a desktop manual version is quite real.

There are many options for creating it, so we will consider only a few of them.

The most important requirement for the created machine will be the chosen angle - this directly affects how sharp the cutting edge will be and how long it will last.

The thinner it is (i.e., the smaller the sharpening angle), the sharper the knife will be, but also the less it will serve. In addition, a knife sharpened too sharply (at an angle of less than 15-20º it is not recommended to cut hard products: it will become dull faster.

Specific figures can be cited:

the angle of sharpening of knives (kitchen, hunting) - 15-30º (or better - 20-30º);

angle of sharpening of scissors (rigid) - about 50º.

2.1 First way

To begin with, let's analyze the simplest option.

To create a machine, we need:

2 wooden corners (optimal side length - 20-30 cm).

6-8 screws with clamping nuts.

Sharpening bar.

Trance portyr to correctly set the angle.

The construction is done like this:

3-4 holes are drilled in both corners -so as to fasten them together.

The bar is installed between the corners at the desired angle.

The corners are tightened with screws, securing the bar in the desired position.

For sharpening knives (kitchen, hunting - it doesn't matter) or scissorsyou just need to slide the blade down over the bar. In this case, the blade should go strictly vertically..

Corners can be marked with corners as needed. To change the angle (or to replace the bar), you just need to loosen the screws tightening the corners and move the bar. Then the screws are tightened again.

Such a device is good in that it allows you to change the angle. Among its shortcomings, we can note the fact that it is, in fact, not much more convenient than working with a conventional grindstone.

2.2 Option two

Now let's complicate the task: we will make a grinding machine more convenient to use.

This will require:

A piece of laminate (chipboard, plywood).

Wooden lath (length approx. 1 meter, thickness and height - about 2-4 cm), or two slats - one 50-70 cm long, the second up to 40.

Sandpaper.

2 bolts with lock nuts.

Hacksaw for wood.

Protractor.

Marker (pencil, pen, felt-tip pen - any marking tool).

The process itself looks like this:

Now - you need to make a stand, which will allow you to drive the bar at the same angle. For this:

Now left make a holder for sandpaper(which will be used instead of a sharpening bar). For this you need:

Take the second rail, and put it on the U-shaped stand and the knife holder.

Cut off the desired part (the one that goes from the holder to the stand, + 5-10 cm of stock).

On one edge - glue emery.

The optimal abrasive is from P600 to P2000.

AND The disadvantages of this design include:

the impossibility of adjusting the angle: the product allows you to work only at one angle, selected initially (not a disadvantage if the machine needs to be made for the kitchen);

to use emery of different abrasives, you will have to make a separate rail for each.

As an option, in order not to make several strips, you can stick 4 pieces of emery with different abrasives on one strip.

When working (sharpening) such a machine is placed on the edge of the table. The bolts protruding from the bottom will abut against it, so that the machine will stand in one place when the rail with emery moves.

2.3 How to make a homemade knife sharpening machine? (video)

2.4 How to sharpen?

H so as not to spoilknife - sharpener must be used correctly:

The movement of the knife on the bar should be smooth, without jerks, and not very fast.

The pressure on the blade should be even. The pressure force is selected individually.

The blade must be sharpened evenly along its entire length.

If necessary, you need to cool the knife by lowering it into water.

After the completion of sharpening, it is advisable to grind the blade with sandpaper, with a grain size of up to 800.

To check the quality of sharpening, you can put a sheet of paper on a suitable surface (for example, a cutting board) and draw a knife over it. Well sharpened blade - Cuts paper. With poor sharpening, the sheet will wrinkle or tear.

Greetings, Samodelkins!
Today I want to show you how it is possible from the materials that are (or at least should be) in almost every workshop, make an excellent device for smooth sharpening of knives.

Initially, the master wanted to buy a ready-made knife sharpener in China (namely, in the Aliexpress online store), but he thought why not try to make such a sharpener himself with his own hands. Moreover, the prices for this product from Chinese friends are rather big.

For self-production, you will need the following materials and tools:
1. Ordinary board;
2. Sandpaper;
3. Screwdriver;
4. Hammer;
5. Thick electrode 1 pc;
6. Electric jigsaw;
7. A piece of laminate;
8. Bolts and nuts;
9. Wooden handle;
10. Hex key;
11. Fluoroplastic or textolite (fiberglass).

Let's get down to actually making a sharpener.
First, take an ordinary board and cut a piece out of it. Then it is necessary to process the resulting wooden blank, namely to grind it with sandpaper.

It will serve as the basis for our homemade grinder.
In terms of size, it turns out we have 26 cm in length, the workpiece is 6.5 cm wide, and the height of the wooden base is 2 cm.

It is also necessary to make holes in this board. In total, this part of the future product will have 6 through holes. We drill 2 holes for the stand itself (more on it later). Next we drill another hole of a smaller diameter, and also on the other side of the board we drill 3 more holes, which will serve to fix the pressure plate.

Insert nuts into the holes made.

In the future, these nuts can be put on glue so that they do not fall out, but for now everything seems to be quite tight.
Then we will make the rack guide itself. Its master made from an ordinary thick electrode. It must be bent in half. Then, using a hammer, the author beat off the entire upper part from the welding electrode and grinded it. By the way, you can also grind with an ordinary screwdriver. To do this, simply insert the electrode into the chuck of the screwdriver and, holding the sandpaper in your hand, grind the product.

At this stage, we insert the workpiece obtained from the electrode (guide post) into these two holes.
We do not insert at a right angle, but at a slight slope. The angle of the guide is anywhere from 65 to 70 degrees.

Everything sits down quite tightly, but also for greater reliability of our design, in the future it will be possible to put the guide post on epoxy glue, or on some other glue, or on something else.

But perhaps the master is mistaken and this is not fluoroplastic. Fluoroplastic is most often white and slippery of some kind. Most likely it is textolite or fiberglass. But in fact, this is not so important. The main thing is that this material is quite tough and does not wear off.
From this piece (PTFE or not PTFE), the author cut out a kind of pressure plate. He made holes in it, as well as small sweats, so that the caps go a little into the depth of the plate.

Then we put this plate on the wooden base made earlier. We fix it with screws.

The author took the cogs under a hex wrench. The master also made a small hole in the base of the future knife sharpener so that this key was always in this sharpener.

The whole thing is clamped and they (screws) are virtually invisible on the plate.
But here, the master did not do it, since the sharpening part of the tool will not touch this screw.

Further, from the same fluoroplastic, the author made such a plate.

In this plate I made 2 holes for the same hex screw.
Further, the whole thing is put here and nestled with the help of a lamb.

Then the master made just such a guide for sharpening stones.

The length of the guide is 57 cm. Its author made it from a regular steel bar. I also cleaned it out. And on one end I put just such a handle (like from an old Soviet file).

You can also strengthen this connection by planting a wooden file handle on the glue, but here it has gone in quite tightly, nothing falls out.

Regarding the fastening of the sharpening stones themselves. The author took a small piece of the clamp, cut it off and made holes. As a result, we got these little corners, two identical.

And here I put a nut with a threaded thread and a clamping screw.

The master also put a spring on the guide so that the sharpening stones can be changed without unscrewing the nut with the clamping screw.

The sharpening stones themselves, or rather the base for these stones, were made by the author from an ordinary piece of laminate. Just by cutting it into strips.

The width of the strips is 2.5 cm, and the length is about 20 cm.

On the pieces of the laminate there are already ready-made grooves, in fact, where the corners of the guiding part of the device will become.
Then the author glued sandpaper to the pieces of laminate with double-sided tape and signed which one was where. And, in fact, this is how it all happened:

The whole thing is put quite easily. With the groove of the laminate we get into one corner of the guide, and with the second corner we press the whetstone with the help of a spring.

Everything. Nothing falls out anywhere. Everything lies evenly and quite tightly.
Let's continue to collect our device further. We insert the guide with the sharpening stone fixed on it into the hole prepared in advance for it, and you can safely begin the process of sharpening the knife.

The stroke is quite large due to the fact that here the author has removed a small chamfer on both sides.

Most parts for a sharpening machine can be made from literally anything, following the general principle of the device. As an example, let us take laminated or polished box plywood 8-12 mm thick, which was widely used in the manufacture of Soviet radio enclosures.

The base must be heavy - about 3.5-5 kg - otherwise the machine will be unstable and unsuitable for sharpening heavy chopping tools. Therefore, the inclusion of steel elements in the design is encouraged, for example, the base of the case can be "shod" with a 20x20 mm corner.

Two pieces in the shape of a rectangular trapezoid with bases of 170 and 60 mm and a height of 230 mm must be cut out of plywood with a jigsaw. When cutting, leave a 0.5-0.7 mm allowance for machining the ends: they must be straight and exactly correspond to the markings.

The third part is an inclined plane made of a plywood board with dimensions of 230x150 mm. It is installed between the inclined sides of the side walls, with the trapeziums of the side walls resting on the rectangular side.

In other words, the base of the machine is a kind of wedge, but the ramp should protrude 40 mm at the front. Along the ends of the side walls, use a thickness gauge to set two lines indented by half the thickness of the plywood. Drill three holes in each plank to secure the parts with screws. Transfer the drilling to the ends of the inclined part, temporarily connect the base parts.

At the rear, the side walls are connected with a 60x60 mm bar, which is attached to the end with two screws on each side. A 10 mm vertical hole must be made in the bar with a 50 mm offset from the center, that is, 25 mm from the edge. To be sure of verticality, it is best to first drill with a thin drill on both sides and then widen. From above and below, screw into the hole two sleeves with an M10 female thread, and in them - a 10 mm stud, 250 mm long. Here it may be necessary to slightly adjust the bottom sleeve if its threads are not aligned with the stud.

The device of the handyman.

Remove the flat inclined part from the base - it needs to be finalized, equipped with a device for fixing and clamping the tool being processed.

First, set aside 40 mm from the front edge and along this line with a hacksaw, saw down a groove about 2 mm deep. Using a sectional or boot knife from the end of the board, chisel off the top two veneer layers to form a sample into which you can insert a 2 mm steel plate flush with the common plane.

The handrail consists of two steel slats 170x60 mm and 150x40 mm. They need to be folded together along the long end with uniform indents along the edges and make three 6 mm through holes. The strips along these holes must be tightened with bolts, placing the caps on the side of the upper, larger plate. Arc welding bake each head, welding it to the plate, then remove the beads of metal and grind the plate until a perfectly flat plane is obtained.

Attach a narrower striker to the notch on the edge and relocate the holes with a drill, then bolt the handlebar. Before installation, it can also be magnetised with direct current, this will help in sharpening small blades.

Fixation mechanism.

The second part of the handcuff is the clamping bar. It also comes in two pieces:

The upper L-shaped strip is 150x180 mm with a shelf width of about 45-50 mm.
The bottom striker is rectangular 50x100 mm.

The details need to be folded in the same way as the parts of the handcuff were folded, placing the striker at the far edge of the upper clamp. In the center we make two holes with an indent of 25 mm from the edges of the small part, through them we tighten the parts with two 8 mm bolts. They need to be wound in opposite directions, while the head of the upper (near) bolt is located on the side of the clamping bar. The bolt heads are also welded to the plates and pre-grinded to a neat rounding.

On an inclined plank with an indent of 40 mm from the edge, draw a line with a thickness gauge, and make one 8 mm hole 25 mm from the top and bottom edges. Connect the edges of the holes with a marking and with a jigsaw make a cut with an allowance. Bring the resulting groove with a file to a width of 8.2-8.5 mm.

Fasten the hold-down and striker plate through the groove in the plank. Tighten the bolt protruding from the top with a nut so that the bar retains minimum movement, then lock the connection with the second nut. To press or release the strap from the bottom (in the base niche), screw the wing nut onto the second bolt.

Sharpening angle adjustment.

Throw a wide washer onto the pin screwed into the base block and tighten the nut so that the rod does not rotate in the sleeves.
The adjusting shoe must be made from a small block of solid material with dimensions of about 20x40x80 mm. Take carbolite, textolite or hardwood.

At 15 mm from the edge, the block is drilled into a 20 mm end on both sides, the hole expands to 9 mm, then we cut a thread inside. With an offset of 50 mm from the axis of the hole made, the second is drilled, but in the flat part of the part, that is, perpendicular to the previous one. This hole should have a diameter of about 14 mm and should be flared strongly with a round rasp.

The block is screwed onto a pin, so it is possible to relatively accurately adjust the height of the eyelet without a complex system of screw locks, as in the original machine, which is a little more difficult to implement in practice. In order for the block to be motionless during operation, it must be counterbalanced on both sides with M10 wing nuts.

Carriage and removable blocks.

For a sharpening carriage, you will need to coaxially weld 30 cm pieces of M10 hairpin and a smooth, even bar 10 mm thick. You also need two solid blocks with dimensions of about 50x80 mm and a thickness of up to 20 mm. A 10 mm hole should be made in each bar in the center and at a distance of 20 mm from the top edge.

First, a wing nut is screwed onto the bar, then a wide washer and two bars, again a washer and a nut. Rectangular sharpening stones can be clamped between the blocks, but it is better to make several replaceable whetstones.
As a basis for them, take a light aluminum profile with a flat part 40-50 mm wide. It can be a rectangular shaped pipe or pieces of an old eaves profile.

We skin the flat part and degrease it, "Moment" we glue strips of sandpaper of different grain size from 400 to 1200 grit on it. Choose a fabric-backed sandpaper, and glue a strip of suede leather on one of the blocks to straighten the blades with an abrasive paste.

How to sharpen correctly.

For correct sharpening, make several templates from plywood with angles of 14-20? for cutting and 30-37? for chopping edges, the exact angle depends on the steel grade. Lock the blade parallel to the edge of the handrail and press down with a bar. Using the template, adjust the angle between the planes of the sharpening block and the tilted tabletop.

Start sharpening with a coarse (P400) bar if the edge does not have the correct angle. Make sure that the descent strip takes the form of a straight strip without convolutions and waves. Reduce grit and work on both sides of the blade with a P800 bar and then a P1000 or P1200 bar. When sharpening the blade, slide the bar lightly in both directions.

After sharpening, the blade needs to be corrected with a "leather" bar, on which a small amount of GOI paste has been applied. When dressing the blades, the working movement is directed only towards the edge (towards itself), but not against it. And, finally, a little advice: if you sharpen knives with polished blades and engraving, cover them with masking tape so that the crumbling abrasive does not leave scratches. It also does not hurt to paste over the surface of the handcuff with vinyl self-adhesive.

The advent of the Edge Pro grinding machines revolutionized without exaggeration. The prices are really high, but no one bothers to copy the principle and create such a device yourself. We offer the design of a simple machine for sharpening knives, chisels and any other blades that you can make with your own hands.

Machine base

Assistant device

Remove the flat inclined part from the base - it needs to be finalized, equipped with a device for fixing and clamping the tool being processed.

Latching mechanism

The second part of the handcuff is the clamping bar. It also comes in two pieces:

The upper L-shaped strip is 150x180 mm with a shelf width of about 45-50 mm.
The bottom striker is rectangular 50x100 mm.

Sharpening angle adjustment

Throw a wide washer onto the pin screwed into the base block and tighten the nut so that the rod does not rotate in the sleeves.

The adjusting shoe must be made from a small block of solid material with dimensions of about 20x40x80 mm. Take carbolite, textolite or hardwood.

Carriage and replacement blocks

As a basis for them, take a light aluminum profile with a flat part 40-50 mm wide. It can be a rectangular shaped pipe or pieces of an old eaves profile.

How to sharpen correctly

For correct sharpening, make several templates from plywood with angles of 14-20º for cutting edges and 30-37º for cutting edges, the exact angle depends on the grade of steel. Lock the blade parallel to the edge of the handrail and press down with a bar. Using the template, adjust the angle between the planes of the sharpening block and the tilted tabletop.

The myth of supposedly self-sharpening knives quickly broke up…. About everyday life. This is not surprising, the laws of physics, there are laws of physics, against them, so to speak, even marketers are powerless. If knives are not sharpened in the house, if you remember the famous bard, there is nothing good. Today, the editors of the site will help solve the problem of dull blades and tell you how and with what you can properly sharpen a knife at home. We will introduce our readers to different types of knife sharpening devices, tell you about their effectiveness, and also teach you how to make a simple sharpener at home.

Read in the article

Types of devices for sharpening knives

A sharpening stone for sharpening knives is probably the very first device of this type. A simple, and, most importantly, affordable tool has been successfully coping with its task for many millennia.

Until now, the classification of machine tools depends on this once uncontested grindstone. The type of abrasive material can be:

bars;
sharpening stones.

By drive type:

manual;
electrically driven.

At the place of use:

homemade;
professional.

However, in the modern world, only a simple hunting knife can be sharpened with a grindstone. In other cases, the quality will be poor. In addition, only soft metals are sharpened with a stone, if the cutting part of the blade has a hardness higher than 55 HRC, you cannot sharpen it with improvised means.

Important! Each blade type has a different edge angle. And during sharpening, it must be held along the entire length of the processed surface of the product.

Several types of modern whetstones are still in use today. An example of this is natural stones - Japanese water stone (we showed it in the photo above) or American "Arkansas". Master sharpeners even conduct special master classes on sharpening knives using natural stone. Interestingly, before the processing process, it is soaked in water, sometimes with soapy water, and dried after work. The whole process resembles a sacrament for initiates. Therefore, it should not be surprising that these rocks are too expensive, and artificial abrasive surfaces are used in most sharpening devices.

Knife sharpening bars

These are artificially turned abrasive coated bars that are suitable for hand sharpening both carpentry and locksmith tools, as well as for kitchen knives.

Bars, depending on the material from which they are made, can be of different degrees of wear resistance and grain size. Consider the main types of materials that are used in the manufacture of whetstones:

Natural stones, such as novaculite or Japanese water stone. It is not very easy to work with such a tool. They require certain skills and skill.
Diamond(diamond-coated) - can be of different shapes and grain sizes. Wear resistant. Affordable price.
Ceramic... Refers to a more modern type of sharpening bars. Combines the hardness of a diamond coating with the hardness of a natural stone.
Artificial: fused alumina or carbide. Fast grinding abrasive, of low quality and the same price.

Artificial abrasives are created by mixing diamond powders of different fractions, as well as electrocorundum and carbide.

Important! In this case, the material used for bonding the rock, as well as the percentage of all elements, is of great importance. The stronger and better the composition (this also applies to the particles themselves), the more resistant the grinding abrasive will be.

Moreover, there are two types of bundle of elements - galvanic and soft bundle. In the first case, the crystals are glued strictly to the surface of their base, made of a nickel alloy. In fact, the crystals are located in a very thin layer on the bar. A soft bond is a chaotic arrangement of bonding and abrasive elements. The second type is less wear-resistant.

Sharpening stones for knives

If we talk in more detail about sharpening stones, you need to talk about the main varieties used in such tools, this will help you understand the process in detail and understand how to sharpen the knife correctly. But before talking about them, one cannot fail to mention the stages of sharpening, which in this context will play a decisive role in the description of different materials and machines.

Stage	Description	Illustration
Sharpening	Restoring a blunt edge without adjusting the sharpening angle.
Debugging	Edge grinding with fine grain abrasives.
Edit	Polishing bevels and cutting edges with a ceramic pencil, GOI paste or on a leather belt.
Resharpening (deep sharpening)	Full restoration of the desired sharpening angle, geometry of the blade profile and elimination of chips on the edge. Most often, this work is carried out on special machines.

Let's move on to a description of the main options for sharpening stones.

Japanese water stones

They are used equally effectively at all stages of sharpening. There are artificial analogs (ceramic-based), but professionals use original, natural materials. The stones require special care, because the most important rule of the master is the perfectly flat surface of the whetstone.

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"To check the level of evenness of the stone, use a simple method. Wet the block and place it on a piece of paper on a flat surface. The print will allow you to assess the level of evenness of the stone.

Novaculites, or "Arkansas", "Turkish", "Belgian" stones - natural shale and chalcedony interspersed with the smallest particles of garnet and quartz. Today, both natural stones and their artificial substitutes are used.

Important! The stones only work in combination with a special oil lubricant. The extraordinary and unique structure of the stones allows them to be used at different stages of processing.

Musat for sharpening knives

Musat is a kind of file, most often installed vertically. The peculiarity of this tool is that its surface is magnetized, which means that metal flour will not fall on you.

Musats come in different shapes: round, faceted, flat with beveled edges.

Each variation has its merits. So, for example, a round musat weighs a little, but an oval one sharpens better, since its edges provide more complete contact with the processed surface. Quadrangular - more versatile, here you can improve the quality of the required sharpening angle.

Household manual knife sharpeners

You can talk for hours about the options and varieties of hand-held lathes used in everyday life. These are both familiar household mini-sharpeners, known to almost everyone, and more specific devices with a polishing wheel.

The easiest way to work with mini-sharpeners that control the progress of the instrument. In this case, the degree of sharpening depends on the effort that the person makes.

Household Electric Knife Sharpeners

Electric grinders are more convenient. Working with them saves time. Most often, such driven machines have different modes of operation, which are controlled by switches.

Typically, these machines are compact, safe, simple and reliable, since all the grinding wheels are hidden inside the body. In this case, the sharpening angle is regulated by a special spring, which completely eliminates sharpening errors.

Professional manual knife sharpeners

Professional hand tools are a bit like a carpentry vise. The object of sharpening, in fact, a knife, is clamped with special clamps.

The grinder itself is installed on the stop. It is very important to fix the machine correctly and to avoid slipping of the tool during sharpening.

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"If you do not have the skills to work with this tool, it is better to use automatic sharpeners. In addition, such a machine cannot be assembled without certain knowledge.

Professional electric knife sharpening machines

Professional machines are distinguished by their versatility. Usually this is an apparatus with a massive abrasive disc. Such tools allow you to sharpen not only knives, but also locksmith tools, for example, planers and chisels.

The combination of low speed and constant cooling results in high-quality processing of products already at the stage of forming the incisal edge. And at the final stages of work, they provide the blade with a razor sharpness. The professional tool has a large number of attachments and replaceable discs. Moreover, the clamp, where the blade is fixed, can freely move along the support in the horizontal direction. Moreover, you can adjust the sharpening angle.

How to sharpen a knife correctly

For high-quality sharpening of the machine, experience and certain knowledge are needed. Let's start with the basics.

Optimal sharpening angles and sharpness for kitchen knives

It's no secret that there are a lot of knives for different materials. A good housewife has her own knife for vegetables and meat. Let's take a look at the correct sharpening angles for different tools.

Tool type	Sharpening angle
Razor and medical scalpel	10-50 °
Professional for chefs	20-25 °
Universal	25-30 °
For complex jobs	25-30 °
Cutlery kitchen utensils	55-60 °
For fillet	15-20 °
Home universal	30-35 °
Boning and butchering	25-30 °
Professional for fish	25 °
Professional for vegetables	35 °
Hunting and "Swiss" (sharp)	30-35 °
Hunting and "Swiss", blunt-resistant	40-45 °

For your information! Blades with a sharpening angle of 50 ° are considered the sharpest knives; such versions, with a certain steel grade, can cut nails. When sharpening knives, you can vary the angle at your discretion within the named range.

In general, the sharpness of the blade depends on the shape of the blade. And she, in turn, must correlate with certain clear correspondences of the relationship between blade and blade.

How to sharpen a knife at home with a bar

The process is simple, but rather painstaking. It is pointless to try this process without sharpening experience. Usually craftsmen use two whetstones with different abrasive densities - coarse and fine.