Sunflower oil, cold pressed? The most common acids in cosmetology Which oil has more linolenic acid.

If you are even a little interested in the topic of proper nutrition, then you have probably heard about the benefits of replacing saturated fats with polyunsaturated fats, i.e. animal fats - vegetable oils. For decades, this has been one of the main dietary postulates. For example, the current 2010 official American guidelines for healthy eating state that fats should provide 20-35% of calories in the daily diet, but saturated - no more than 10%. These recommendations have clearly influenced consumer habits - the consumption of animal fats has practically not grown, but vegetable fats have increased 2.4 times since 1995.

Judging by the 2015 update of the dietary guidelines, an expert panel is proposing to remove the upper limit on all fat intake, but the stance on saturates remains unchanged. This causes lively criticism from many experts who believe that it is the growth in the consumption of vegetable oils that is one of the main causes of obesity and many associated diseases.

Recently, Forbes magazine published on this topic, written by two American doctors - cardiologist James Dinicolantonio and family therapist Sean Lacan. Both authors of the article have long been engaged in research in the field of obesity and healthy nutrition and are recognized experts in these issues. Especially for you, we translated the main provisions of their article:

In the latter half of the 20th century, concern about saturated fats and their role in cardiovascular disease led to many dietary guidelines calling for the replacement of saturated fats with unsaturated fats. As a result, liquid vegetable oils began to displace solid fats (for example, butter).

Over the past decades, the consumption of vegetable oils, such as soybean, rapeseed, corn, sunflower, cottonseed, safflower, has grown significantly. For example, from 1970 to 2000, soybean oil consumption rose from 4 pounds per person per year to 24 pounds.

All of the oils listed above are a rich source of unsaturated fatty acids. And many of these oils are especially rich in linoleic acid. Perhaps the consumption of this acid exceeds the dose that evolution has prepared us for. Linoleic acid provides a modern person with about 8% of all calories consumed, while before the advent of agriculture, this share was 1-3%. In other words, we now consume 2.5 to 8 times more linoleic acid than we did over the hundreds of thousands of years of evolution prior to the relatively recent advent of agriculture (and even more recent advent of the food industry).

Could this apparent spike in our consumption of linoleic acid exceed our tolerance for it, increase our waist circumference, and undermine our health? Quite possible.

We know from experiments in mice that increasing linoleic acid intake from 1% to 8% can cause the brain to send out signals to eat more. In addition, it will also contribute to the deposition of fat. It appears that increasing linoleic acid intake dampens satiety and increases fat cell size. The introduction of linoleic acid (i.e. soybean oil) into the diet of mice led to obesity and diabetes and had a clear negative effect compared with the introduction of coconut oil (high in saturated fat) or fructose (whose association with various health problems and the deposition of abnomal fat well proven).

In humans, linoleic acid can also cause obesity and related problems. In a randomized clinical trial where participants received either soy or coconut oil, coconut oil (solid saturated fat) led to a reduction in abnominal fat, while high linoleic acid soybean oil may have made participants fatter and most certainly led to worsening their cholesterol profile.

How does linoleic acid increase our risk of obesity and related problems? One explanation could be that linoleic acid (omega-6) competes with other omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids and interferes with their effects on the body. While Paleolithic people consumed omega-6s and omega-3s in a 1:1 ratio, the modern Western diet has a 16:1 ratio. Consuming enough omega-3 fatty acids may prevent omega-6-induced obesity. But a high intake of omega-6s without a corresponding intake of omega-3s can lead to insulin resistance and prediabetes. Excess omega-6, incl. linoleic acid, can interfere with the conversion of white fat (which is stored in reserve) into brown fat (which is used as energy).

Linoleic acid may interfere with intrauterine and postnatal development. When a large amount of linoleic acid was added to the diet of one group of pregnant or lactating mice, and a balanced amount of omega-6 and omega-3 was added to the diet of another, it was noted that only a diet rich in linoleic acid caused obesity and diabetes in the pups. A possible reason for this effect is the ability of linoleic acid to stimulate the development of new fat cells from precursor cells. If the same effect is confirmed in humans, it would mean that high intake of linoleic acid during pregnancy or lactation may lead to children being born overweight or becoming overweight later. Infant formulas high in linoleic acid may also contribute to childhood obesity.

With recent findings, it is of great concern that dietary guidelines continue to suggest replacing saturated fatty acids with oils high in omega-6 linoleic acid. For example, the American Heart Association still recommends that Americans get 5-10% of their calories from omega-6-rich oils. This is partly because saturated fat raises cholesterol levels, while omega-6s can lower it, which means that this replacement could lead to less disease and better health. Although it may actually be quite the opposite: replacing saturated fats with high-omega-6 oils can lead to an increased risk of heart disease and death. These recommendations need to be revised.

Comment from site:

The authors of the article refer mainly to soybean oil, because. it is the most popular vegetable oil in the US - 63% of the total consumption of vegetable oils. In Russia, the most popular is sunflower oil - 85% of the market. The content of linoleic acid in sunflower oil is 68%, which is significantly higher than in soybean oil - 51%. And this means that for Russian consumers, the balance of omega-6/omega-3 fatty acids is likely even more unhealthy than for Americans, especially given that Russians consume much less healthier types of vegetable oils, such as olive oil. and coconut. The ongoing economic crisis and the resulting decline in purchasing power and the rise in price of imported products leads to the fact that the consumption of cheap domestic oil, primarily sunflower oil, will increase, while expensive imported oil will fall. In addition, in connection with the crisis and sanctions, the demand for margarine, also obtained from vegetable oils, has risen sharply. for many consumers, it becomes an affordable alternative to the more expensive butter. All this, of course, is fraught with serious problems for the health of the population on a national scale.

In addition, it is worth remembering that not only “folk” sunflower oil is distinguished by a high content of linoleic acid, but also expensive types of oils with a reputation as a “healthy” alternative - for example, from walnuts (51%) or from grape seeds (73%). But in palm oil, which is usually blamed for all sins, there is much less linoleic acid - 10%, in coconut even less - 2%.

It is worth remembering that omega-6 fatty acids are essential, i. the body cannot synthesize them on its own. We are not talking about completely eliminating them from the diet. Moreover, there is no such danger, even if vegetable oils are completely abandoned, because. they are part of many products - for example, egg yolks (3.5%), chicken fat (18-23%), almost all nuts. But omega-6 intake should be very moderate and balanced with an appropriate intake of omega-3s (fatty fish, flaxseed oil, chia seeds).

Below we provide a table of the content of linoleic acid in popular vegetable oils:

Safflower	78%
From grape seeds	73%
poppy	70%
Sunflower	68%
Hemp	60%
corn	59%
Cotton	54%
soybean	51%
From walnut	51%
Sesame	45%
From rice bran	39%
pistachio	32.7%
Peanut	32%
Almond	21%
Rapeseed	21%
Ryzhikovoe	20%
mustard	15%
Linen	15%
from avocado	15%
olive	10%
Palm	10%
Cacao butter	3%
From macadamia nut	2%
coconut	2%

All vegetable oils are 95% composed of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, which form the basis of the oil. The remaining 5% are valuable sterols and phytosterols, tocopherols, terpenes, carotenoids and other benefits.

Essential fatty acids include omega-3 (alpha-linolenic acid), omega-6 (linoleic and gamma-linolenic acid), omega-7 (palmitoleic acid) and omega-9 (oleic acid).

Let's start with linoleic acid as the most important for healthy skin!

Linoleic acid (omega - 6) restores the skin barrier, reduces transdermal water loss, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect.

Linoleic acid is an essential component of the lipids of the stratum corneum of the skin, it is part of ceramides 1 and provides the strength of the skin barrier. In healthy skin, linoleic acid is in balance with oleic acid, the optimal value is 1: 1.4

With a deficiency of linoleic acid in the body, our protective layer ceases to be a barrier, it becomes permeable to various microbes and allergens. Leather loses the ability to retain moisture, water loss accelerates, the skin becomes dry and rough. Areas of thickening of the skin (hyperkeratosis) appear along with dehydration.

Juvenile acne and juvenile acne also associated with a lack of linoleic acid in the skin. Due to the low content of linoleic acid in the skin, the synthesis of ceramides is disrupted, which leads to damage to the skin barrier and creates excellent conditions for the reproduction of acne-causing bacteria.

Oils with linoleic acid ideal for oily and acne prone skin, but also significantly improve dehydrated skin by restoring the barrier. Balanced mixtures are obtained when combined with gamma-linolenic acid (for oily skin) and oleic acid (for dry skin).

Oils high in linoleic acid

Evening Primrose Oil (75% Linoleic Acid)
Grape seed oil (72% linoleic acid)
Sunflower oil (65% linoleic acid)
Hemp Oil (56% Linoleic Acid)
Black Currant Oil (47% Linoleic Acid)
Rose mosquito oil (45% linoleic acid)
Borage Oil (37% Linoleic Acid)
Sea buckthorn oil (34% linoleic acid)
Argan oil, baobab (33% linoleic acid)

Alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3) rejuvenates the skin and accelerates its renewal.

Alpha-linolenic acid supports skin regeneration and accelerates the process of cell renewal, stimulates metabolism.

Such oils are ideal for anti-aging care, for the care of mature and pale skin with a tired complexion. Oils high in alpha-linolenic acid are considered the most active and effective skin care oils of all.

Oils high in alpha-linolenic acid

Cranberry Oil (33% Alpha Linolenic Acid)
Rose mosquito oil (32% alpha-linolenic acid)
Sea buckthorn oil (31% alpha-linolenic acid)
Hemp Oil (16% Alpha Linolenic Acid)
Blackcurrant oil (13% alpha-linolenic)

Gamma-linolenic acid (GLA, omega-6) suppresses inflammation and treats skin conditions.

Gamma-linolenic acid is a precursor of prostaglandins, which play an important role in the fight against inflammatory processes in the skin. It is used as an anti-inflammatory substance and provides intercellular communication, restores the damaged skin barrier.

When applied to the skin, gamma-linolenic acid is used for the treatment of inflammation, itching and many skin diseases, including eczema, psoriasis, acne, etc. It is also used orally for chronic skin diseases and exacerbations.

This acid is found in high amounts in only three oils and is used to treat oily and inflamed skin.

Oils high in gamma-linolenic acid

Borage Oil (21% Gamma Linolenic Acid)
Black Currant Oil (14% Gamma Linolenic Acid)
Evening Primrose Oil (9% GLA)

Oleic acid (omega-9) moisturizes the skin and increases its permeability, transport for active ingredients

Oleic acid gives hydration and a feeling of softness to the skin, promotes the penetration of other oils into the stratum corneum. It serves as an enhancer, that is makes the lipid barrier of the skin more permeable to other active substances. Oleic acid in healthy skin is in balance with linoleic acid, in a ratio of 1.4: 1

Unlike oils with linoleic acid (which penetrate quickly but shallowly), oleic acid penetrates deep into the skin, but not too quickly, making it an ideal base for massage blends. In formulations, it gives a feeling of hydrated, nourished skin and is suitable for intensive moisturizing serums and creams.

Oils with a high content of oleic acid

Camellia oil (84% oleic acid)
Hazelnut Oil (77% Oleic Acid)
Olive oil (72% oleic acid)
Marula oil, almond (70% oleic acid)
Apricot oil (68% oleic acid)
Avocado oil (60% oleic acid)
Macadamia Oil (57% Oleic Acid)
Argan oil (46% oleic acid)

Palmitoleic acid (omega-7) regenerates dry and mature skin, restores its elasticity.

Palmitooleic acid makes up about 4% of its own lipids and is simply considered very valuable and beneficial for the skin! It is found only in a few oils, and most of all in sea buckthorn. Like oleic acid, omega-7 penetrates into the deep layers of the skin.

It activates regeneration, restores the skin and its elasticity, is used in moisturizing and nourishing formulations for the care of mature and dry skin, and for hair.

According to Japanese studies, the content of palmitoleic acid in sebum in women after 20 years of age is almost halved by the age of 50. Therefore, it is necessary to make up for its lack in the skin, from time to time drinking supplements with omega-7 and using oils with a high content of it in cosmetics.

Oils high in palmitoleic acid

Sea buckthorn oil (33% palmitoleic acid)
Macadamia Oil (20% Palmitoleic Acid)
Avocado Oil (9% Palmitoleic Acid)

Lauric acid has an antimicrobial effect, myristic acid clogs pores

Babassu oil and well-known coconut oil have the highest content of lauric acid. Lauric acid has strong antimicrobial and antifungal activity, These oils spread very well on the skin. and quickly absorbed. In creams, they give a feeling of smoothness and softness to the skin.

But it is in these same two oils that the content of myristic acid is high, which has a comedogenic effect and can provoke blockage of pores. And if pure coconut oil is not suitable for facial skin, then for the body and hair you can use it quite calmly!

Oils high in lauric acid

Coconut Oil (48% Lauric Acid, 19% Myristic Acid)
Babassu Oil (40% Lauric Acid, 15% Myristic Acid)

Stearic acid restores and protects the skin from external influences

Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid and makes up about 10% of the stratum corneum and sebaceous lipids. Oils with a high content of stearic acid have a shielding effect (forms a protective film), restore the hydro-lipid layer and protect the skin from external influences, give a good sliding effect in the emulsion.

Stearic acid is generally well tolerated by the skin, but can cause comedogenic effect, some associate it with the ability of acid to strengthen cell membranes inside the lipid layer and make them less flexible, which makes it difficult for sebum to drain from the pores.

Oils high in stearic acid

Shea butter (45% stearic acid)
Mango butter (42% stearic acid)
Cocoa butter (35% stearic acid)
Cupuacu butter (33% stearic acid)

Palmitic acid protects and is suitable for dry and mature skin.

Palmitic acid makes up 37% of the fatty acids in the stratum corneum. Its content decreases with age, so palmitic oils are often used for mature skin care. Like stearic acid, it forms a thin but lighter protective film on the skin to repair damage.

Oils with palmitic acid are used as a protective barrier for dry skin and for mature skin care. For oily skin, it is better to choose oils with a low content of palmitic acid (up to 13%) or use oils in mixtures.

Oils high in palmitic acid

Cocoa butter (27% palmitic acid)
Baobab Oil (22% Palmitic Acid)
Avocado Oil (19% Palmitic Acid)
Wheat germ oil (19% palmitic acid)
Argan, olive, marula oil (13% palmitic acid)
Soybean oils, babassu (11% palmitic acid)
Borage oils, sesame, coconut (9% palmitic acid)

There are three other oils with a unique fatty acid composition that are not found anywhere else.

As well as pomegranate seed oil, which is 72% of the rare punicic acid, the unsaturated conjugated linolenic acid CLnA, which has recently come to be called the rare omega-5. Pomegranate seed oil has not only an anti-inflammatory effect, but also accelerates skin regeneration, affects collagen synthesis.

Tocopherols and carotenoids in vegetable oils.

In addition to valuable omega acids, many vegetable oils contain high amount of natural vitamin E as tocopherols and tocotrienols. It is believed that olive oil is very rich in vitamin E, but in fact, sea buckthorn oil occupies the first place, the level of tocopherols in which simply rolls over and depends on the method of obtaining the oil, pressing or CO2 extraction.

Sea buckthorn oil is also a champion in carotenoid content, up to 48 mg per 100 g of oil. It is followed by cranberry oil and rosehip oil (mosquito roses).

Oils high in tocopherols (vitamin E)

Sea buckthorn oil (185-330 mg of tocopherols per 100 g of oil);
Wheat germ oil (250 mg of tocopherols per 100 g of oil);
Cranberry oil (215 mg of tocopherols per 100 g of oil);
Blackcurrant oil (100 mg of tocopherols per 100 g of oil);
Hemp oil (76 mg of tocopherols per 100 g of oil);
Argan oil (62 mg of tocopherols per 100 g of oil);

I continue to talk about the composition of cosmetics and what components you need to pay attention to. Today I’ll tell you how oils work in cosmetics, how to choose them and which ones are right for your skin!

The post is long, but I advise you to read it carefully! Understanding the effects of oils will help answer many of the questions we as conscious consumers have. But first, an axiom:

Oils in cosmetics are necessary for any type of skin!

Oils are absolutely necessary for any type of skin, including oily skin! If dry skin receives hydration, protection and start of the renewal process from oils, then oily skin makes up for the lack of linoleic acid, leading to chronic inflammation, acne and dermatitis!

Our skin is made up of a lipid barrier, which is based on triglycerides of fatty acids and other lipophilic components (ceramides, cholesterols, etc.). In healthy skin, triglycerides are in optimal balance, they form a barrier layer, are responsible for the restoration of cell membranes of the lipid layer and its protection.

Healthy skin contains an optimal ratio of fatty acids.

What happens if, with age, the skin stops producing certain fatty acids or their balance is disturbed?

The skin becomes dry or dehydrated, its protective barrier is broken and holes are formed through which moisture evaporates rapidly and microbes and allergens penetrate. And the more we start smearing with expensive creams on petroleum jelly, the more we exacerbate the problems.

The skin needs only one thing - to fill the lack of fatty acids and restore the damaged barrier!

Just remember this and move on. Oils are unique in that, on the one hand, they are emollients, and on the other hand, they are involved in skin nutrition and affect all its processes. That is, oils are the real active ingredients in cosmetics!

How carrier oils work on the skin

1. They are used as emollients, that is, they cover the skin with a blanket and create a barrier that prevents damage to the upper layer of the skin. This barrier serves as protection for the skin and gives it the time it needs to recover. At the same time, unlike mineral oils, they do not create a greenhouse film that makes it difficult for the skin to breathe and is harmful.

I.e oils prevent moisture loss from the skin by physiological means.

2. Oils fill the space between dead skin cells and make its surface smooth. By increasing the cohesive force, they flatten the curled edges of the individual scales. This leads to the fact that the skin becomes softer, smoother, without roughness, which means it has a greater ability to reflect light. At the same time, the protective barrier of the skin is strengthened, the friability of the skin is removed.

Oils smooth the surface of the skin and make the barrier stronger.

3. Due to their lipophilic structure and high content of unsaturated acids, oils are conductors for the delivery of active ingredients to the deeper layers of the skin.

Therefore, oils are used to deliver beneficial supplements.

4. Oils themselves have biological activity, serve as a bioavailable source of essential fatty acids (which the body does not produce itself) and make up for their deficiency. Oils also supply carotenoids, vitamins and phytosterols to the skin, revitalizing aging and tired skin.

Oils themselves serve as useful additives in cosmetics.

Oils in cosmetics - a source of essential acids

Each oil has its own unique fatty acid composition (so-called fatty acid profile) that can be used to determine how it will affect the skin.

Almost all oils are a source of useful essential acids that are not produced in the skin and enter the body from the outside. We all know them, these are unsaturated acids called omegas.

It has long been proven that the lack of essential fatty acids in the body is directly related to the deterioration of the skin.

Essential fatty acids include omega-3 (alpha-linolenic acid), omega-6 (linoleic and gamma-linolenic acid), omega-7 (palmitoleic acid) and omega-9 (oleic acid).

Each unsaturated acid plays a specific role and affects the physiological processes in the skin.

I have disassembled all the essential fatty acids that are present in oils and identified the main oils with the maximum content of this fatty acid. Let's start with linoleic acid as the most important for healthy skin!

Linoleic acid in cosmetics

Linoleic acid (omega - 6) restores the skin barrier, reduces transdermal water loss, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect.

With a deficiency of linoleic acid in the body, our protective layer ceases to be a barrier, it becomes permeable to various microbes and allergens. Leather loses the ability to retain moisture, water loss accelerates, the skin becomes dry and rough. Areas of thickening of the skin (hyperkeratosis) appear along with dehydration.

Juvenile acne and juvenile acne also associated with a lack of linoleic acid in the skin. Due to the low content of linoleic acid in the skin, the synthesis of ceramides is disrupted, which leads to damage to the skin barrier and creates excellent conditions for the reproduction of acne-causing bacteria.

Oils with linoleic acid ideal for oily and acne prone skin, but also significantly improve dehydrated skin by restoring the barrier. Balanced mixtures are obtained when combined with gamma-linolenic acid (for oily skin) and oleic acid (for dry skin).

Thus, studies have shown that the combination of linoleic acid with gamma-linolenic acid significantly improves neurodermic skin diseases, increases skin hydration and promotes healing of eczema. It also reduces keratinization of the skin.

Oils in cosmetics high in linoleic acid

Evening Primrose Oil (75% Linoleic Acid)
Grape seed oil (72% linoleic acid)
Sunflower oil (65% linoleic acid)
Hemp Oil (56% Linoleic Acid)
Black Currant Oil (47% Linoleic Acid)
Rose mosquito oil (45% linoleic acid)
Borage Oil (37% Linoleic Acid)
Sea buckthorn oil (34% linoleic acid)
Argan oil, baobab (33% linoleic acid)

Alpha linoleic acid in cosmetics

Alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3) rejuvenates the skin and accelerates its renewal!

Alpha-linolenic acid supports skin regeneration and accelerates the process of cell renewal, stimulates metabolism. It refers to the components that provides communication between cells(the same group includes peptides, retinoids and niacinamide).

Oils in cosmetics high in alpha-linolenic acid

Cranberry Oil (33% Alpha Linolenic Acid)
Rose mosquito oil (32% alpha-linolenic acid)
Sea buckthorn oil (31% alpha-linolenic acid)
Hemp Oil (16% Alpha Linolenic Acid)
Blackcurrant oil (13% alpha-linolenic)

Gamma linoleic acid in cosmetics

Gamma-linolenic acid (GLA, omega-6) in cosmetics suppresses inflammation and treats skin conditions.

When applied to the skin, gamma-linolenic acid is used for the treatment of inflammation, itching and many skin diseases, including eczema, psoriasis, acne, etc. It is also used orally for chronic skin diseases and exacerbations.

This acid is found in high amounts in only three oils and is used to treat oily and inflamed skin.

Oils in cosmetics high in gamma-linolenic acid

Borage Oil (21% Gamma Linolenic Acid)
Black Currant Oil (14% Gamma Linolenic Acid)
Evening Primrose Oil (9% GLA)

Oleic acid in cosmetics

Oleic acid (omega-9) moisturizes the skin and increases its permeability, transport for active ingredients

Oleic acid gives hydration and a feeling of softness to the skin, promotes the penetration of other oils into the stratum corneum. It serves as an enhancer, that is makes the lipid barrier of the skin more permeable to other active substances. Oleic acid in healthy skin is in balance with linoleic acid, in a ratio of 1.4: 1

Oils in cosmetics high in oleic acid

Camellia oil (84% oleic acid)
Hazelnut Oil (77% Oleic Acid)
Olive oil (72% oleic acid)
Marula oil, almond (70% oleic acid)
Apricot oil (68% oleic acid)
Avocado oil (60% oleic acid)
Macadamia Oil (57% Oleic Acid)
Argan oil (46% oleic acid)

Omega 7 palmitooleic acid in cosmetics

Palmitoleic acid (omega-7) regenerates dry and mature skin, restores its elasticity!

Palmitooleic acid makes up about 4% of its own lipids and is simply considered very valuable and beneficial for the skin! It is found only in a few oils, and most of all in sea buckthorn. Like oleic acid, omega-7 penetrates into the deep layers of the skin.

It activates regeneration, restores the skin and its elasticity, is used in moisturizing and nourishing formulations for the care of mature and dry skin, and for hair.

Oils in cosmetics high in palmitoleic acid

Sea buckthorn oil (33% palmitoleic acid)
Macadamia Oil (20% Palmitoleic Acid)
Avocado Oil (9% Palmitoleic Acid)

Erucic acid in cosmetics

Erucic acid (omega-9) is recognized as toxic when consumed internally!

Erucic acid, found in oils, also belongs to the omega-9 family. High levels of this acid are found only in rapeseed oil, although a variety with a low acid content is already being bred. It is believed that erucic acid does not break down and accumulates in the body, so its conditional maximum limit is 5%.

When used internally, erucic acid may cause irreversible changes in the myocardium, but it does not matter for cosmetology.

But since borage oil has a low content of erucic acid, for the internal use of oils for atopic dermatitis and other diseases, it is better to opt for evening primrose oil.

Oils in cosmetics containing erucic acid

Rapeseed oil (46% erucic acid)
Borage oil (2.6% erucic acid)

Lauric acid in cosmetics

All other fatty acids in oils are saturated. They are stable and not subject to rapid oxidation, resistant to rancidity and have a protective effect on the skin, forming a breathable film on the skin or a protective screen.

Lauric acid has an antimicrobial effect, myristic acid clogs pores!

Babassu oil and well-known coconut oil have the highest content of lauric acid. Lauric acid has strong antimicrobial and antifungal activity, These oils spread very well on the skin. and quickly absorbed. In creams, they give a feeling of smoothness and softness to the skin.

Oils in cosmetics high in lauric acid

Coconut Oil (48% Lauric Acid, 19% Myristic Acid)
Babassu Oil (40% Lauric Acid, 15% Myristic Acid)

Stearic acid in cosmetics

Stearic acid restores and protects the skin from external influences!

Stearic acid is generally well tolerated by the skin, but can cause comedogenic effect, some associate it with the ability of acid to strengthen cell membranes inside the lipid layer and make them less flexible, which makes it difficult for sebum to drain from the pores.

Oils in cosmetics high in stearic acid

Shea butter (45% stearic acid)
Mango butter (42% stearic acid)
Cocoa butter (35% stearic acid)
Cupuacu butter (33% stearic acid)

Palmitic acid in cosmetics

Palmitic acid protects and is suitable for dry and mature skin!

Palmitic acid makes up 37% of the fatty acids in the stratum corneum. Its content decreases with age, so palmitic oils are often used for mature skin care. Like stearic acid, it forms a thin but lighter protective film on the skin to repair damage.

Oils in cosmetics high in palmitic acid

Cocoa butter (27% palmitic acid)
Baobab Oil (22% Palmitic Acid)
Avocado Oil (19% Palmitic Acid)
Wheat germ oil (19% palmitic acid)
Argan, olive, marula oil (13% palmitic acid)
Soybean oils, babassu (11% palmitic acid)
Borage oils, sesame, coconut (9% palmitic acid)

Three oils with unique fatty acid profiles

There are three other oils with a unique fatty acid composition that are not found anywhere else.

This jojoba oils and limnantes alba oil, which contain 70% gadoleic acid, which is found only in them and provides oils with ultra-high stability to daylight, rancidity and heat.

As well as pomegranate seed oil, which is 72% of the rare punicic acid, the unsaturated conjugated linolenic acid CLnA, which has recently come to be called the rare omega-5.

Pomegranate seed oil has not only an anti-inflammatory effect, but also accelerates skin regeneration, affects collagen synthesis.

Tocopherols and carotenoids in vegetable oils

In addition to valuable omega acids, many vegetable oils contain high amount of natural vitamin E as tocopherols and tocotrienols.

It is believed that olive oil is very rich in vitamin E, but in fact, sea buckthorn oil occupies the first place, the level of tocopherols in which simply rolls over and depends on the method of obtaining the oil, pressing or CO2 extraction.

Sea buckthorn oil is also a champion in carotenoid content, up to 48 mg per 100 g of oil. It is followed by cranberry oil and rosehip oil (mosquito roses).

Oils in cosmetics high in tocopherols (vitamin E)

Sea buckthorn oil (185-330 mg of tocopherols per 100 g of oil)
Wheat germ oil (250 mg of tocopherols per 100 g of oil)
Cranberry oil (215 mg tocopherols per 100 g of oil)
Blackcurrant oil (100 mg of tocopherols per 100 g of oil)
Hemp oil (76 mg of tocopherols per 100 g of oil)
Argan oil (62 mg of tocopherols per 100 g of oil)

Stability of oils to daylight and sunlight

Another important topic is about the stability of oils to daylight. Here the rule is easy: the most stable oils with a high content of saturated acids, the most unstable oils with a high content of omega acids.

As you can see, a high content of tocopherols sometimes does not save oils from rancidity.

According to stability, all vegetable oils are divided into three groups:

very stable oils
unstable oils
the third group with medium stability, which includes all other oils.

Oils unstable to daylight

Oils of borage, pomegranate, blackcurrant, primrose, sea buckthorn, soybean, sunflower, grape seed, wheat germ, mosquito rose (rosehip)

Oils are very stable to daylight

Jojoba oils, Cupuaçu, Cocoa, Coconut, Mango, Marula, Shea, Squalane, Limnantes Alba

Medium Stability Oils

All other oils

It seems that I wrote all the most useful things about oils, but for those who have not mastered the post to the end, I offer a brief summary!

Summary for those who don't want to read this post!

Oils are needed for all skin types, they protect, help retain moisture and serve as a source of beneficial acids.
Omega 3-6 is useful taken internally to moisturize the skin, omega-9s are also needed for balance
Oils with GLA are useful to take orally for chronic diseases and inflammation of the skin, and primrose is better than borage.
Oils with linoleic acid (omega-6) restore damaged skin barrier and belong to ceramides
Oils with alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3) rejuvenate the skin and the most active oils
Oils with gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) fight inflammation and itching
Oils with oleic acid (omega-9) moisturize and help the penetration of active ingredients
Oils with palmitoic acid (omega-7) enhance the regeneration of mature skin
Oils with stearic and palmitic acid form a protective film, restore damage

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ANALYSIS OF THE COMPOSITION OF COSMETICS. LIST OF 26 COMPONENTS.

The opinion that existed even in the first decade of our millennium that any oils are categorically contraindicated for oily, and even more problematic skin, has undergone a significant change in our time or, more precisely, has become completely opposite, declaring oils for oily skin almost a panacea. Although everything here, of course, is purely individual and far from so simple. There was no universal panacea for all.

The followers of the above theory argue that the reason for the pores clogged with too thick sebaceous secret lies in the chemical, fatty acid, composition of this sebaceous secret, in which there are too many saturated and monosaturated fatty acids and too little polyunsaturated, linoleic acid.

It is linoleic acid that is responsible for the ability of the skin to properly renew itself and cleanse itself. Its deficiency leads to strong sebum secretion (hyperfunction of the sebaceous glands) and peeling of the skin (hyperkeratosis), which clog the sebaceous glands, which causes acne and pimples. The use of linoleic acid in the care of oily and problem skin gives a good effect on both teenage and adult acne and acne.

The most useful for oily and problem skin vegetable oils that have linoleic acid in their composition are:

blackcurrant oil,
borage oil,
kukui oil,
kiwi oil,
raspberry oil,
Spanish sage oil (chia).

Linoleic acid is not produced by the body and oils containing it are recommended to be used not only externally, but also internally. Most often, evening primrose oil is chosen for internal use. It is worth noting here that this oil is classified as an estrogenic phytohormone, and its uncontrolled use can cause serious hormonal disruption.

The most affordable for us can be called rosehip oil, which is sold in almost every pharmacy. If you decide to experiment with it, then make sure that your oil is sufficiently refined and does not color the skin.

Since rosehip oil is an unstable oil, do not heat it and store it in the refrigerator. To increase the shelf life of the oil, add vitamin E to it or a little more stable oil, such as jojoba oil.

In the old days, rosehip oil was classified as a comedogenic oil and was not recommended to be used in its pure form, and these recommendations should not be neglected at all. Most often, this oil is recommended to be applied in a ratio of 10% to the entire mass of the cosmetic product. Although you can put more of it in homemade masks, provided that the product does not stay on the skin for a long time.

In the following recipes, rosehip oil is completely replaceable with evening primrose oil or other oils from the list above, including their mixtures.

Oily mask

1 egg yolk,
1 teaspoon glycerin (buy at iHerb)
1/2 teaspoon rosehip oil
5-7 drops of lavender essential oil
5-7 drops of tea tree essential oil.

Rub the yolk with rosehip oil, add essential oils and glycerin.

Apply for 10-15 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. If the skin needs a cream, give it to him, but if your skin does not need a cream, then you should not overload it.

Well: after 3-5 days for 12-14 weeks.

After five or six weeks, the result should already appear, showing whether oil care is suitable for your skin.

Serum gel

1 bottle of Blefarogel 2 (sold in a pharmacy, contains sulfur, hyaluronic acid and aloe vera gel),
1/8-1/3 teaspoon soy or sunflower lecithin - optional but recommended (Iherb)
1/2 teaspoon glycerin
1/3 teaspoon rosehip oil
10-15 drops of lavender essential oil
10-15 drops of tea tree essential oil.

Use clean and dry items pre-treated with chlorhexidine or wiped with alcohol swabs for injection to prepare the serum. Put on disposable gloves on your hands and treat them with an antiseptic.

Decide in advance where you will store the finished product. A bottle with a dispenser is best suited for this. Disinfect it as well.

Mix Blefarogel with glycerin and rosehip oil. Mix everything vigorously or, even better, beat with a mini-mixer, gradually adding lecithin and achieving the consistency you need. Then, while continuing to stir, add the essential oils.

Use as a serum, applying a thin layer under basic care, or as a mask, applying to the skin in a medium layer for 30-40 minutes every day or every other day.

Store in the refrigerator for up to a month and make sure that water does not get inside.