How to make a woodcutter from pallets. We build buildings for summer cottages from wooden pallets

With building materials on the rise in price, many cannot afford to use them. Therefore, a variety of materials are used, which are easy to get and which have similar characteristics. So, for example, craftsmen successfully use plastic bottles to build a greenhouse, a utility block and other elements. An equally popular material that is considered universal is pallets. There is a large list of things that anyone can do with this unique material. Today we will talk about building a chicken coop from pallets.

If you decide to start breeding chickens in the country or in the house, then you cannot do without a chicken coop. Instead of using boards and constructing a frame structure, you can use good old pallets. From this article you will learn instructions on how to make a chicken coop from pallets with your own hands.

What are pallets

If you first met this material, then you need to explain what it is. It is also called a pallet. Generally speaking, this is a shipping container that is used for the safe transportation of goods. It is a strong, rigid platform made of wood, metal or plastic. On the photo you can see how they look.

It is noteworthy that the pallets are made in such a way that they can withstand enormous loads. With a weight of 15-21 kg, they are able to withstand 1 ton of cargo. And that's just one element. If you put them together, then the weight will be very large. What does this give us? As a material, pallets are very strong and will last a long time. And most importantly, the cost of the chicken coop will be low, because the products are inexpensive.

It is also important that they have a convenient size and design. It is easy to work with the material and build various kinds of structures. To make a chicken coop, we will use wooden pallets. The standard size of a euro pallet is 800x1200 mm. Accordingly, the size of the structure will depend on them. Although, you can saw the pallet to get the size you want.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the construction, it will be necessary to perform a number of preparatory work. The first is to prepare the pallets and bring them into the desired state. It is recommended to protect the tree from an aggressive environment. After all, under the influence of precipitation, it can rot. For this, impregnations for wood, antiseptics and antiperes are used. In this way, pallets can be made non-combustible.

The second point concerns the preparation of the foundation. To begin with, it is important to determine the location of the chicken coop. The place should be convenient for you, as well as comfortable for the hens. Then remove everything that will interfere with work, clear the area and level the area. If the chicken coop is small, then you can do without a foundation device. And in the case when the building is weighty, it is necessary to create a foundation. It can be:

• pile;
• columnar.

These options are the cheapest and most reliable. It is enough to dig holes and make piles of metal, wood or blocks. Alternatively, use brickwork. It is important to distribute the pillars evenly around the perimeter. For a small chicken coop, it is enough to make supports at the corners, and for a large one, you will need to create additional support piles.

Wooden logs are laid on the piles and fixed with anchors to the supports. After that, the floor is made of boards or other sheet material. The base for the chicken coop is ready. You can start creating walls and roofs.

Wall and roof construction

Further, as they say, a matter of technology. The walls will be made of pallets installed in a vertical position. Of these, you need to make a frame for the building. The advantage of this method is that you can put foam plastic in the space between the pallets, thereby insulating the chicken coop so that the chickens do not freeze in winter.

In order for the structure to be reliable, you need to install support beams. They are connected to the floor with metal corners. Additionally, jibs are used. But between them you need to lay pallets. Everything is connected together with the help of additional boards, metal corners. It is recommended to install a support between two pallets. All products are leveled and fixed to each other. The design must be strong and reliable.

Note! Be sure to leave room for windows, doors, and chicken holes.

As for the ceiling, you can not be at a loss by creating a gable roof. Even a flat version will do. To do this, on the walls of pallets, you need to install logs from beams and perform roofing. As a roofing material, you can use slate or corrugated board.

Finishing touches

The frame of your chicken coop is ready. It remains to make it presentable. Various materials are suitable for this purpose. You can just upholster it with boards around the perimeter. Another option is to use sheet materials such as fiberboard or plywood. It is easy to work with them, and sheathe the structure will turn out pretty quickly.

If the chicken coop is not too big, you can spend money and use siding or lining. Then the design will not only be a haven for chickens, but also a decoration of your site. Do not forget to insert windows and doors after creating this opening. Everything is ready for operation. You will find some details on how to build a chicken coop from pallets in this video.

Pallet corral

If extra pallets remain after building the chicken coop, you can use them wisely by creating a fence for chickens so that they are only in the territory allocated to them. To begin with, define these boundaries yourself. Then prepare the pallets by treating them with the same protective compounds. It remains to measure the pallets in order to understand exactly how to lay them out around the perimeter.

Advice! To fit products to a certain size, you can cut them.

Now your chickens have not only housing, but also a place where the birds can move freely without harming the household.

Conclusion

As you can see, even without expensive materials in your arsenal, you can make a wonderful chicken coop using unnecessary pallets. If you use ingenuity, you will get original buildings. All you need is desire and time. And to speed up the process, you can ask your family for help.

A small shed in the country is a necessary object. It can store garden tools, tools, some household items that are not used in winter, and so on, so on, so on. Today, many summer residents use wood heating. So the barn is often used as a storage for firewood. In this article I would like to talk about a woodcutter from pallets, as a kind of barn. Why pallets are so well suited for the construction of small objects, the savings from this construction, as well as the technology for building a woodshed.

Source pinterest.pt

wooden pallet

Everyone has come across wooden pallets. This is a shipping container that is used as a storage unit. Piece goods are stored on it, stored and transported. In this case, the movement is carried out using special vehicles.

In Russia, pallets are not hospitalized goods. This means that they do not have specific requirements in terms of standard sizes. Therefore, different manufacturers have different products with different sizes. But in Europe, these devices have certain standards. But there is no single GOST, and in each country they approach production differently.

For example, the main type of wooden pallets used in Europe are 800x1200x144 mm. And in Russia they are called euro pallets. There is another variety that comes from Finland. Its dimensions are as follows: 1000x1200x144 mm. Sometimes the height is reduced to 138 mm.

The most important parameter to which special and strict requirements are imposed is the bearing capacity. So it should not be less than 1000 kg.

Source do.63.ru

Today, manufacturers produce pallets for different purposes, hence their small classification:

Two-way or four-way. The first are stands into which loader fork may come in with two sides. Second - with four sides.

Single deck and double deck. In the first case, these are pallets, cargo stand which is located with one side. In the second, with two sides, that is, the pallet itself can be placed on any side.

Disposable and negotiable. Everything is clear here, the first ones are disposed of immediately after one use. The second - exploit many times.

For a barn, it is better to use double-entry, single-layer pallets. They are not inferior in strength to others, but at the same time the price of the product is much lower. But since the task is to build a barn from pallets, they are also pallets, the best option is used fixtures. Usually old coasters are thrown away, many of which are still in good condition. Often this wooden material is obtained free of charge.

Source sk-amigo.ru

What is a lumberjack

So, first of all, you need to understand the terminology. There are two almost identical structures: a woodcutter and a woodcutter. They differ from each other in that the first is a firewood shed built on a foundation, which is a separate building. That is, it should not adjoin the main house on a suburban area. The second is a light structure, almost a canopy that adjoins the house.

There is another similar term - firewood. This is a wood basket. Firewood is carried in it, it is installed inside the house, where firewood is stored for heating the stove, heating and other household needs.

Source find-clever.de

What is a lumberjack for?

It is clear that raw firewood burns poorly, emits heat poorly, but smokes very well, clogging the stove chimney with soot. That is, there are many negative aspects from the use of such firewood. Therefore, they must be stored in a dry place. But in rural areas, where heating is more often based on the use of solid fuel, this can be said about cooking, and kindling a bath, and even cooking barbecue or barbecue, firewood is produced in large volumes. So, they need space, closed on all sides.

So, the woodcutter has certain requirements:

He must be located v convenient location. To him should be free an approach.

Dimensional sizes are selected based on stored fuel.

The barn must be thought out ventilation system. It is forbidden allow firewood inside the building dampened during their storage.

It is forbidden admit to the logs solar rays. Too much dried wood burns quickly.

It is necessary to ensure that the woodcutter is well fit in in the landscape design of a suburban area.

Source astroyresurs.ru

The technology of building a firewood shed from pallets

So, it was determined that the woodshed is just a barn. To build it from pallets, which means that you first need to decide on the dimensions of the structure, and then calculate how many pallets will be required in construction. Let's make a reservation right away that the pallets will be installed, as they say, "on the butt", that is, on the butt. In this case, the end is selected the one in which the ends of the beams used as the base of the pallet will be visible. That is, the bars will be located vertically.

This means that the width of the pallet in the woodshed becomes its height. And if, for example, a pallet with a width of 1 m is purchased, then at least two pallets stacked on top of each other are required to achieve an acceptable height of the barn being built. That is, the height of the structure in this case will be equal to 2 m. And the length of the wooden fixture automatically becomes part of the length of the object being built.

Source assz.ru

For example, the simplest design of a woodcutter is pallets folded in pairs, which are also installed one on top of the other. The number of pairs will depend on the size of the structure itself, given that the length of the pallet for almost all varieties is standard - 1.2 m. As an example, a small barn can be given: three pairs of pallets are long, two pairs are wide. In size, this will turn out to be 3.6 and 2.4 m, respectively. The area of ​​​​the internal space will be almost 9 m². And taking into account the height of 2 m, this will be a rather serious volume - 18 m³. This amount of firewood is enough for the whole winter for a family of several people.

Now we turn to the technology of building a shed from pallets. And immediately make a reservation that there is no standard technology. But the only thing that unites many varieties is the frame structure of the building. Therefore, first of all, a frame is built, and pallets are already attached to it.

Source induced.info

Our website contains the most popular manufacturers of houses presented at the exhibition, which offer services:. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

The simplest version of the frame structure is the installation of vertical pillars. For this, beams with a section of 100x100 mm are usually used. They are dug into prepared wells, having previously carried out waterproofing measures. The last is the coating of the edges of the bars, which will be recessed into the ground, with bituminous mastic. For reinforcement, it is often carried out wrapping with roofing material in two layers.

The support posts of the frame are set strictly vertically. Taking into account the height of the barn and the length of the end buried in the ground, the length of the columns to be dug in is calculated. Usually the size of the dug-in end is at least half a meter.

After the racks are prepared, it remains to mount the pallets. For example, this can be done as shown in the photo below. Pallets are put on racks, and fastened to them with long self-tapping screws.

Source grounde.ru

The described installation method is considered one of the most reliable. That is, a barn assembled using frame technology is a strong, stable and reliable structure. But there are other options that are no less reliable. Only they are not assembled using frame technology. Here, reliable fasteners are used, with the help of which the pallets are interconnected into one solid wall.

To do this, pallets joined in one horizontal row are interconnected by long M12 bolts. Therefore, in the bars, which are the supporting base for the pallet, through holes with a diameter of 14 mm are made. It is necessary to make the holes so that when docking the pallets, they coincide with each other. And since there are three pairs of support bars in each pallet, there will be three strong connections that guarantee the reliability of the structure being erected.

The connection can be made with direct hangers, which are used in the construction of false ceilings or ventilated facades.

Video description

The video just shows such an option for building a barn, where pallets and direct suspensions are used:

Another option. It is connected with metal pipes. This is somewhat reminiscent of a frame structure, but the approach to fastening is completely different. To do this, at the docking point of the pallets, pipes with a diameter of 32 or 40 mm are driven into the ground. A pair of plates are pre-welded to them by electric welding, in which holes for fasteners are preliminarily made. That is, two pallets in one horizontal row are fastened through the plates with self-tapping screws to one pipe support.

Roof and other elements

Let's start with the front door. Racks are specially installed for it. Usually these are wooden beams that are dug into the ground or attached to the base in any possible way. In this case, the racks are obligated with a horizontal jumper.

Source lestorg32.ru

Now, as for the roof. Usually for a small structure it is shed. The woodcutter is no exception in this regard. The main thing here is to accurately observe the angle of inclination of the roof. It can be done by installing a wooden truss on the front side of a small barn. In fact, this is a rectangular structure assembled from bars of a small section. It is installed on the front side of the erected structure and attached to pallets in various ways, for example, with long nails or self-tapping screws.

After that, the rafter legs are laid, the crate is on them, and the roofing material is on top. After that, the farm is covered with sheet material: plywood, OSB boards, corrugated board, sheet iron, and so on.

Source pinterest.ru

Woodshed sheathing

So, the woodshed is built. But before the start of its operation, there is time, because the erected structure is a sieve. This means that it must be sheathed on the outside with sheet or slab material. There are a lot of options here, the main thing is to accurately fit the constructed object into the landscape design of the suburban area. Usually, decorative design is selected according to the external design of the main house.

The nuances of the building

A very important point is the base of the woodcutter. It must not only be durable, it must be dry. Therefore, most often a concrete floor is poured into the barn, in addition, it must be higher than the ground on which the barn is being built. This is for rain and snow. Water must not enter the building.

Often the floor is built from the pallets themselves. But in any case, under them form a solid foundation. Sometimes the barn is installed on a columnar foundation. Then, for this, a wooden strapping of beams with a section of 100x100 mm is assembled along the pillars. And already the pallets themselves are laid and fixed on them. The photo below shows just such a barn.

Source masterlogos.ru

The roof must be erected with overhangs 30-40 cm long. This is a time-tested protection against natural precipitation. As for the roofing material, there are no restrictions. But more often they use slate or corrugated board, less often bituminous tiles, under which it is necessary to lay a continuous crate. And this is an additional cost.

Video description

The video shows how a simple firewood shed is built from wooden pallets:

Conclusion on the topic

Probably, we must pay tribute to our compatriots, who sometimes build service facilities in summer cottages out of garbage. And in this regard, wooden pallets are no exception. Even unsuitable ones, which are usually used as firewood, suddenly turn into a good building material. The main thing is to turn on the fantasy.

In one of our articles, we considered . As a result, you were able to make sure once again that human ingenuity knows no bounds.

Continuing this topic, we can say that this is not the only area where pallets can be used.

In addition to furniture, you can make other things that will be a useful acquisition for a summer residence.

Today we will look at what else can be done from ordinary pallets. The above options will allow you to see in simple objects an idea that you can bring to life on your own.

Pallet building options. How to do it yourself?

Let's take a closer look at wooden pallets. We can say that this is a horizontal plane with sides. And what do we see when we flip it to a vertical position? Reminiscent of a screen, and if you put next to not one, but, say, ten? As a result, we get a fence! With a little imagination, you can give such a fence an original and beautiful look.

To calculate the required number of pallets, you need to know their width and the perimeter of the site. Then they must be cleaned from chips, various irregularities, dirt. We dig a trench, install support pillars (metal pipes), make drainage (sand, stones), pour concrete.

We fix pallets between the posts, and the height of the fence is regulated by the number of pallets. The upper edge of such a fence can be figuratively trimmed, the surface itself can be painted, and various decorations can also be attached to it. As a result, you will get a beautiful fence for minimal money.

Continuing the theme of fencing, pallets can be used to make decorative screens and vertical green walls that can be used to disguise old buildings or divide a large area into zones.

Such a building made of pallets for a summer residence, like a gazebo, will decorate your site. It will be openwork, filled with light and at the same time - cozy and secluded. Under it, you also need to make a foundation, we clean the pallets, process them with protective compounds.

Installing them on top of each other, we form the walls, but before that we need to make the floor (it can also be made from the pallets themselves) and the frame of the gazebo, on which we will mount the pallets.

The frame can also be wooden, from poles installed at a certain distance and transverse lintels. On such walls you can put decorative vines.

By the same principle, you can make a summer house. To close the gaps between the boards of the pallet, we advise you to sew up the walls from the inside. Thus, pockets will be obtained on the outside, where ornamental plants, herbs, and edible greens can be planted in the spring.

Another option (more laborious)- we embroider wooden pallets and build a house from separate boards. We make the frame from thick transverse, and thin walls. All nails must be removed. Window frames can also be made from the same boards.

First, we make the floor, laying logs, which we sheathe with chipboard or lay boards. Then we build the frame of the walls and the roof, we sheathe our house with boards. We cover the roof with sheets of chipboard, on top - roofing material and flexible tiles.

So the summer house is ready, it remains only to paint. You can use it as a room for work, recreation. Such a small-sized design will really appeal to your children, whose imagination can easily find application in their games.

In warmer countries, such houses are built for both temporary and permanent residence. They are equipped with all necessary furniture and other amenities.

The idea discussed above can also be used to build utility structures on the site. A pallet shed will look modern and original, without disturbing the overall picture at all. The result is a beautiful solid building for minimal money.

Structures from pallets, if desired, can be sheathed with siding. Not a single person in this case will guess what the building is made of until you enlighten him on this matter.

In addition, pallets can also be used to create another building option - a chicken coop.

Wood is an environmentally friendly material, so pallets are very useful if you decide to have a pet bird. The scheme is the same as for building a house, only you can not make a foundation if the structure is temporary, summer. The gaps in the pallets will provide natural ventilation and illumination. If desired, you can sheathe the chicken coop on three sides with sheets of chipboard.

Pallets also make a solid dog house. The main thing is to provide a good covering for the roof so that water does not get inside, and sheathe the walls to protect the pet from the wind.

Someone will ask - what about the bath? We would not advise you to use wooden pallets for this, except for using a bathhouse in the warm season or for building a summer shower.

But if you want to take a steam bath in winter, you will have to use other materials, because the bath should keep warm for a long time, so you have to insulate the walls.

As you can see, many different buildings can be made from pallets for summer cottages. This is a very profitable investment of time and effort, since the material is not at all expensive, and the boards are very durable, and, accordingly, the structures will last longer.

Preparation for the construction of the barn consists of the following activities:

1. Location determination. Since this building is intended to store items and materials needed for use in the garden, the barn must be placed on the site adjacent to the front garden. To save space, it is better to build it closer to the boundary. The rules establish that the barn should not be closer than one meter to the neighboring site.
2. The dimensions of the building in the plan are best chosen for reasons of rational use of materials. So, the optimal option would be a size of 6x4 meters. At the same time, the length corresponds to the dimensions of the standard lumber length - 6 meters, and the width assumes a two-meter-long departure, which can be used for racks on the low (rear) side of the building. For the front, you can cut the timber in half and take it completely on the racks.
3. Thus, the main dimensions of the barn with a shed roof were determined, the angle of inclination of which will be about 14 degrees. This is an ideal building option in terms of the rational use of materials.
4. The distance between the racks of the frame should be no more than one and a half meters. At the extreme openings, braces must be installed to counteract wind loads. The size of the beam for them should be the same as the size of the bearing support posts. If a beam of 100x100 millimeters is used, then the jibs can be made from a beam of 50x100. In total, you will need 8 pieces of such parts.
5. The upper trim of the frame must be made of a beam of the same size as the lower one, in our case it is 100x100 mm.
6. For rafters, you can use a bar 50x150 mm, installed vertically in width.
7. Wall cladding from the outside should be made from any waterproof sheet material: plywood, OSB boards, drywall. A common material for walls is unedged board. Tes must be sanded before installation.

Let's deal with the supporting structure. The barn does not need a massive foundation. It can be installed on small concrete blocks, using them in the corners and in the middle of the walls. However, in areas with high wind loads, it is better to use screw anchors. This is a version of the screw pile in miniature. It is enough to install them at a distance of two meters from each other, the total need for such parts will be 8 pieces.

If you use the frame device scheme, you can make a solid barn with your own hands

Preparing the site for the shed

The site for this building is prepared as follows:

1. It is necessary to free up space from the fertile layer, which will require the removal of soil to a depth of 30 centimeters. The surface must be carefully leveled and compacted.
2. After that, it is necessary to arrange a drainage layer by pouring sand 12-15 centimeters thick into the recess. Fill the rest with gravel of medium fraction, compact the entire surface.

Thus, the likelihood of stagnation of water under the barn, which will easily leave through the drainage, is reduced.

Calculation of the need for materials

The amount of materials needed to build a barn is conveniently calculated in tabular form.

Table: an example of calculating materials for building a barn

Name	Purpose	Quantity (pcs)	Size (cm)	Normative data (pcs/m3)	Notes
Anchor	support structure	6
Pine beam 100x100 Total by type of material:	Bottom strap length Bottom strap width Top harness by lenght Top strap width Rack rear Rack rear Rack front Doorway	2 2 2 2 4 1 5 1 11	600 400 600 400 200 200 300 90s 200 600	16,6	From segments From the segment Total requirement 0.7 cubic meters
Beam 100x50 Total by type of material:	Additional crate in the openings jib Window openings 60x20 cm	24 8 2 2 11	150 300 160 600	33	Total requirement 0.33 cubic meters
The board is not edged Total by type of material:	Sheathing outer overlap of the rear wall The same for the front wall Same for side walls	48 48 32 56	200 300 300 600	28	Total requirement 2.0 cubic meters
Beam 50x150 mm	Translations	7	400	22	Remaining 7 pieces x200 mm Total requirement 0.33 cubic meters

In addition to the above, you will need a plastic film for a moisture protection device. With a width of three meters, it needs 20 linear meters for the outer protective layer and the same for the inner one. Depending on the price indicators, it can be replaced with roofing material.

The final covering of the roof is taken from the simplest of financial considerations. Suitable ordinary slate or fiberglass, galvanized or painted corrugated board. When calculating the need, it is necessary to take into account overhangs with a width of 0.3–0.5 meters.

Interior decoration is best made from sheet material. Useful and leftovers from the decoration of the house.

Thermal insulation in an unheated barn room has the opposite meaning. In hot weather, it is important to keep the temperature from overheating in the sun. In such a situation, without thermal insulation, it will be very uncomfortable to be in it. It is important to perform high-quality waterproofing of the walls.

A frame shed can also be built on poles

Barn building tools

For such a simple structure, the need for a tool is small.

Table: barn construction tool

Step-by-step instructions for building a frame barn

To build a barn, you need to perform a series of sequential steps:

What to make the foundation

A strong foundation is not needed to build a barn. Often it is installed simply on brick stands. It directly depends on the nature of the soil at the location. If the subsoil layer consists of clay or heavy loam, this threatens with significant soil movements, as a result of which the structure can be skewed with damage to the walls and jamming of the doors. In such a situation, a rather deep foundation is needed, the supporting part of which will be below the freezing level of the soil.

These conditions are met by the following types of support bases:

1. Pile-screw. Screw piles are screwed into the ground to the required depth, their upper ends must be aligned horizontally along the stretched cord. Then, heads are installed on them for attaching the support beam. In addition to the quality of the soil, such a choice can be made when building a barn on a slope.
2. Columnar. For the device, you need to dig (or drill) pits below the level of soil freezing. At the bottom, make drainage from sand (12–15 centimeters) and gravel in approximately the same layer, tamp the backfill. Reinforcement is carried out with a frame of steel bars in the amount of 4–6 pieces vertically, fastened with crossbars. The armored rack must be collected on the surface and immersed in the pit. Install the formwork of the desired height on top of the soil. Pouring concrete into the ground. After seven days, the formwork can be removed and work can continue.

It makes no sense to consider other foundation designs. They are heavier and more expensive in execution: tape, grillage and other types of support bases, and they are inappropriate for a building weighing several hundred kilograms.

Photo gallery: types of lightweight foundations for light buildings

The columnar foundation with a concrete grillage serves as a reliable support Lightweight foundation on piles will withstand loads on unfavorable soils Pile-screw foundation with a wooden grillage for the installation of a barn does not require excavation Strip foundation - a lightweight option for installing a light structure

Frame device

The base for the barn is ready for further installation when the timber trim is installed and fixed on top of the supports. It should represent a regular rectangle, the diagonals of which are equal to each other. The check is made by measuring with a long tape measure or cord.

Frame assembly:

1. Installing a lag for the floor. A bar measuring 50x150 mm is used. The distance between the lags should be 75 cm. Each of them cuts into the strapping beam to a depth of 50 mm. A corresponding cut is also made. You need to fasten it with a nail in the middle and two corners to the body of the strapping beam.
2. Installation of corner posts. Three meters high racks are installed on the front wall, two meters high on the back. The distance between them is 1.5 meters. Corner posts are placed vertically with plumb control. They need to be fixed with temporary jibs, once again check the verticality and fasten to the harness with two corners and two flat plates each. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws.
3. A cord is stretched between the corner posts and the rest are installed at a specified distance along it. Fastening is made by corners and plates.
4. Installation of the upper strapping from a bar 100x100 mm. Under the inclined bars, the supports are cut with the required slope.
5. Installation of translations for the device of a roof from a bar 50х150 mm. On the support bars, when connecting parts, a tie-in is performed. The translations are fastened with screws or M12 studs with wide washers, two screws per joint.
6. Fixing jib. They need to be placed from the top of the corner posts to the bottom trim. The material for them is a bar 50x100 mm. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws.
7. Lathing on the walls. It is made from a bar 50x100 mm. Parts are placed in openings formed by racks at a distance of a meter from each other parallel to the strapping. Fastening is carried out using flat plates with self-tapping screws.

As an option, you can consider the manufacture of a barn frame from a profile pipe measuring 60x60x3 mm. The dimensions of the building are the same, the distance from the base of the lower trim to the top should be two meters.

The profile pipe for the frame will ensure long-term operation of the barn

The work is carried out in the following order:

1. Preparation of parts: racks and crates. Metal cutting is done by a grinder. In addition to parts from pipes, you need to prepare metal corners that are installed on each pipe connection. The size of a triangular part made of steel 3 mm thick is 200x200 mm.
2. The frame is welded by electric welding with angle control. The front welds are cleaned, the reinforcement is removed.
3. Before further assembly, the metal frame is treated with a primer, then covered with paint for metal.
4. With a metal base, sheet materials are used for wall cladding: flat slate, fiberglass, OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood.
5. Moisture protection in this embodiment is necessary. The film is pre-fixed with construction tape.
6. Translations and logs are made from the same timber as with a wooden frame.

Video: building a metal frame for a barn

Floor and wall cladding

Further work on a wooden or steel frame is carried out in almost the same way:

1. Wall covering. It can be made with various sheet materials. For economic reasons, we will opt for an unedged board. Before stuffing the boards on the racks and the crate, it is necessary to install moisture protection from a 200 micron thick polyethylene film or roofing material. You can fix it with a construction stapler on metal brackets.

   Unedged boards are perfect for finishing the walls of the barn

2. Sheathing the back wall with boards should be done in segments two meters long, that is, three parts from each. Fill the first row of boards, on top of which install the second with overlapping slots. Similarly, sheathing the front wall with boards three meters long, as well as the sides of the barn. Trim the end of the side walls in place after the end of the wall cladding.
3. Before laying the roof, install a ceiling covering, which is best made from sheet material. First, arrange an inner crate from a board 25 mm thick, then stretch the moisture protection film, and fasten the front material to it with self-tapping screws.

   For the ceiling in the barn, it is better to use sheet material

4. Insulate the ceiling with any slab or roll material. A popular solution is to use expanded clay with a fraction of 5–10 millimeters. Pour it between transfers and level it. Install moisture protection on top, then the top coat of the roof.
5. To insulate the walls of the barn, you can lay one layer of insulation from the inside.
6. Then, sew on the support strips along the bottom of the lag plane, arrange a crate on them from an edged board 25 mm thick.
7. Install moisture protection.
8. Insulation of the floor is carried out in the same way as the ceiling.
9. Lay a floor covering over the log. First you need to make a draft floor. For it, you can use a cut or unedged board. A finishing coat is placed on top of the finished floor. Under the operating conditions of the barn, it is better to lay the floor with flat slate or cement-bonded particle board.

   The draft floor in the barn is made of boards

10. The last to perform wall cladding from the inside with any sheet material.

Calculation of the need for insulating materials

Thermal insulation of the floor is made with expanded clay. It is advisable to use a fraction of 5-10 millimeters. For wall insulation, it is better to take rolled or slab materials, using the remains of building a house.

How much expanded clay is needed

The volume of this bulk material is determined by the area of ​​the backfill and the thickness of the layer. The floor area is: 6 x 4 = 24 square meters, the backfill layer, taking into account the layer thickness of 0.1 meters, will be 24 x 0.1 = 2.4 cubic meters. For the ceiling, you will need the following amount: 24 x 1.16 = 28 meters, 2, 4 + 2.8 = 5.2 cubes. Coefficient 1.16 takes into account the angle of inclination of the side walls.

How much slab or roll insulation is needed

The need for this material is determined by the area of ​​​​the walls:

1. The frontal wall has an area of ​​6 x 2 = 12 sq. m.
2. The total surface of the side walls will be: 4 x 2.5 x 2 = 20 sq. m.
3. Front wall area: 3 x 8 = 18 sq.m.

Thus, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200binsulation for wall covering will be: 12 + 20 + 18 \u003d 50 square meters.

Photo gallery: finishing work of the barn

Sheathing shed walls with plank is inexpensive and lasts a long time Glass wool reliably keeps the temperature in the shed Laying OSB boards on the floor is a practical option for the shed Material with low thermal conductivity will protect the shed from overheating in summer Plywood is an excellent material for finishing the ceiling in the shed

All wooden parts must be treated with fire impregnation and antiseptic. Otherwise, the barn will not live long.

We build a shed from pallets with our own hands

Shed from pallets in the country: photos of construction, interesting videos about the construction of sheds from pallets.

What can be done from pallets? Craftsmen never cease to amaze with their ingenuity, which is not only made from wooden pallets: sofas, beds, tables, benches, patios, flower beds, but this time we will consider a more substantial homemade product - a barn made of pallets.

You may immediately have a question - why build from old wooden pallets, because the pallets themselves are not intended for construction, and all this will look flimsy. But if you need a simple shed for household needs, storage of inventory, old things or just firewood, then in fact a capital building is not necessary, you can build a simple shed almost from garbage and the cost of building a shed from pallets will be cheap.

You can pick up pallets for free at construction sites where they are simply thrown away, but still you have to buy something for construction - self-tapping screws, bolts, nuts, canopies on doors, boards, roofing material.

How to build a shed from pallets: step by step photos.

Let's start building a barn, and first of all we will calculate the dimensions of the future structure. A standard wooden pallet has a length of 1200 mm and a width of 800 mm, it must be taken into account that each pallet of the bottom row must stand on support blocks, so concrete supports must be cast at the junction of the pallets.

Lay out the bottom row of pallets.

The pallets are fastened together with bolts, we drill holes in the transverse boards and tighten the pallets with bolts.

There are several types of pallets, the mounting option will depend on the type of pallet construction.

In the same way, we mount the second row of pallets, but we also fasten them with the bottom row.

We install rafters for a shed roof, observe the slope.

From the boards we will make a crate for the roof.

Now you need to cover the roof, you can use any roofing material, in our case profile sheets are used.

We cover the outside of the shed.

We will make a gate for the barn, we fix the gate on the door canopies.

And once again we paint our building.

Our shed is ready, of course, this is a simple structure and it cannot be called capital, but this is not required for a shed, such a building can be used for household needs, for example, to lay down garden tools, tools or building materials.

And another video about building a cafe from pallets.

In private households, outbuildings are always needed. Store numerous tools, garden tools, building materials and old but necessary things conveniently in the shed. This building is often used as a workshop or as a home for pets. In order for the barn to retain heat and a stable internal atmosphere, it is necessary to build it from a suitable material. For this outbuilding it is better to use foam blocks.

Advantages and disadvantages of using

Foam blocks have all the qualities necessary for the construction of low structures and have significant advantages:

1. Their use will provide the building with excellent thermal insulation performance. The foam block has the same thermal conductivity as natural wood. Compared to ceramic or silicate bricks, it loses heat almost three times less. This effect is achieved due to the porous structure of the foam block. At 4/5, the foam block consists of small closed cavities. These air pockets are well insulated from each other. The result is a slow change in temperature. A building made of such material acquires the properties of a thermos.
2. This material has good frost resistance. The porous composition of the block allows water to migrate when it freezes. Thanks to this, the foam block retains its structure and integrity.
3. The presence of small cavities inside the unit provides it with excellent sound insulation.
4. Possession of high hygroscopic properties contributes to normal air exchange. This advantage makes it possible to remove water vapor and prevent the occurrence of dampness and mold in the room.
5. Foam blocks do not burn and do not support a flame. This material can withstand open fire for 8 hours and not be destroyed.
6. Simplicity in work. The foam block is much larger than ordinary brick. Its dimensions are 200x300x600 mm. It is convenient to build with such blocks, since the construction of walls is faster.
7. A clear advantage is the weight of the foam block. On average, it is about 11 kg. This provides less stress on the foundation and walls.
8. The total cost of this material is much less than the purchase of bricks for such a structure.
9. Foam blocks are an environmentally friendly material, as they consist of cement, sand and a foaming agent. A protein base is used as a foaming agent.
10. The porous base of the blocks is pliable for sawing.

The disadvantages of foam blocks include the following criteria:

1. Limited strength does not allow the construction of buildings above ten meters.
2. The same disadvantage affects the transportation of foam blocks.
3. The unattractive appearance of the blocks require additional cladding, which significantly affects the cost of the building.
4. Without additional protection, at low temperatures, the foam blocks are destroyed.

Preparation: barn projects, drawings, approximate dimensions

At the preparatory stage of building a barn from foam blocks, it is necessary to choose a place for its construction. An important point is its convenient location on the site of home ownership. As a rule, two entrances are made in the barn, one of which should be wide and unobstructed. This is convenient when moving furniture and large items, for example, when repairing a house. Depending on the functional purpose, the barn is placed close to the residential building or built away from prying eyes. It is necessary to pay special attention to the layout of the barn, the overall dimensions and its functional premises. With good design, in the future there will be no need to build additional extensions to it. The most convenient for household needs, it has dimensions of 6x3 m (divided into two rooms 2x3 m and 4x3 m). Such a project of an outbuilding will make it possible to use it for different purposes. This barn layout will accommodate not only a workshop, but also a home for pets.

The presence of two functional areas of the barn create convenience when using it

Optimal building dimensions

The truss system of the gable roof forms a floor that is conveniently equipped for storing fruits or grains. The height of the roof is selected depending on the purpose of use. If necessary, you can build a truss system with roof slopes that will allow the arrangement of the second floor. In our case, a roof with a slope of 53º was used.

The dependence of the useful area of ​​​​the attic on the angle of the roof

Material calculation. The choice of foundation and insulation

You can calculate the number of foam blocks needed to build a barn without involving estimators. By simple mathematical calculations, you can get accurate information about the amount of material required. To do this, you need to know the parameters of the foam block used, the height and perimeter of the future barn. In our case, the barn will be built from foam blocks measuring 200x300x600 mm. With a building length of 6 m, a height of 2.5 m, it is necessary (6 + 3) 2 \u003d 18 / 0.6 \u003d 30 pieces of foam blocks, where 18 is the perimeter of the barn, and 0.6 is the length of one foam block. As a result, one row will contain 30 blocks. Now you need to find out how many strips of masonry are required. To do this, we divide the height of the building by the height of the block 2.5 0.30 = 8.3 rows. In total, 8.3 lanes are required to build a barn, 30 foam blocks in each row. To calculate how many blocks will go in total, you need 8.3 30 \u003d 249 foam blocks.

In some cases, a different masonry method is used, in which the height of the block will be 20 cm and the width 30 cm. In this case, not 8.3 strips, but 12.5 are needed to build the walls of the barn. This value is obtained as follows: 2.5:0.20=12.5, where 2.5 is the height of the wall, 0.20 is the height of the block. Therefore, the total number of foam blocks for laying walls in this way will be 12.5 30 = 375 foam blocks.

When calculating the number of foam blocks, it is necessary to take into account door and window openings. To do this, subtract as many blocks from the total as many windows and doors will occupy. The calculation is done by masonry with a block height of 30 cm. According to our drawing, the barn has two identical windows with dimensions of 50x50 cm and a pair of doors (one of them is double), with dimensions of 0.6x2.0 m and 1.2x2.0 m. For one window opening will need (0.5 2): 0.6 = 1.6 blocks in length and (0.5 2): 0.3 = 3.3 blocks in height.

Since we have two windows, we add the resulting dimensions of the length and height of the blocks 1.6 + 3.3 = 4.9 blocks. Now we know how much to subtract from the total number of foam blocks in order to accommodate two windows. It is necessary to round the number 4.9 to 5 foam blocks.

In the same way, the calculation of foam blocks for doors is done. To open one (smaller) door, you need 0.6:0.6=1 foam block in length and 2.0:0.3=6.66 or 2.0:0.2=10 in height. The second (double door) requires 1.2:0.6=2 foam blocks in length and 2.0:0.3=6.66 or 2.0:0.2=10 in height.

Total 1 6.66 = 6.66 and 1 10 = 10 blocks, as well as 2 6.66 = 13.32 and 2 10 = 20 foam blocks, 6.66 + 10 + 13.32 + 20 = 49 .98 blocks, rounded up to 50 foam blocks.

Then you need to calculate how many blocks will occupy the openings of doors and windows. For this 50+5=55 blocks. Now you need to subtract the extra ones from the total number of all blocks. For this, 249–55 = 194 foam blocks are needed to build a barn with doors and windows.

Now you need to determine the amount of material for the roof. This requires wooden beams and boards for the gable roof truss system, as well as roofing material. As this material, a red metal tile will be used.

The length of the front, rear and side overhangs should be 50 cm longer than the width and length of the base. This is necessary to avoid getting snow and moisture on the walls of the barn. To build a gable roof you will need:

1. Wooden beams (for the manufacture of rafters) with a section of 100x50 mm, 300 cm long, in the amount of 20 pieces. The angle of inclination of the roof with this length of the rafters will be 53 degrees.
2. Boards (for lathing) with a section of 100x25 mm, 6 meters long, in the amount of 17 pieces.
3. Bars (for floor beams) 100x50 mm, 400 cm long - 20 pieces.
4. Mauerlat (beams) with a section of 150x50 mm, 700 cm long - 2 pieces.
5. Board (for crossbars of rafters) with a section of 100x25 mm, 300 cm long - 1 piece.
6. Insulating material in the amount of 3 rolls.
7. Metal corners for attaching rafters to floor beams.
8. Nails and screws.

Depending on the material from which the barn will be built, the type of foundation is selected. For this building, the following types of foundations are used:

1. Columnar. The use of this foundation contributes to the saving of building material and the speed of installation. It is usually used for light frame-panel buildings.
2. Screw and plate. These species are indispensable on soft ground, heaving and swampy soils, as well as on sand. The screw foundation can be installed at any time of the year.
3. Tape monolithic. This type is ideal for buildings made of brick, stone and concrete blocks.
4. Block. This foundation combines the advantages of foundations of other types.

An important point will be the study of the characteristics of the soil, since they may cause certain problems in construction:

1. Soil that contains a lot of sand can shift after snow melts or heavy rains. When building on such soil, it is recommended to install a slab, pile (screw piles) or strip foundation.
2. The content of a large amount of clay and sandy loam contributes to deep freezing of the soil and the formation of quicksand, which makes the soil unstable.
3. The soil, consisting of gravel, does not freeze to a considerable depth and does not move under the influence of moisture. This soil is well suited for building a barn on a columnar foundation.
4. Rocky or solid stone soil is suitable for installing any (except screw pile) foundation.

Visual determination of the quality of layers

A barn made of foam blocks tends to keep a constant temperature indoors well, but it still needs additional work on insulation. This will eliminate the possibility of freezing of the walls and the destruction of foam blocks. In cases of low temperatures for a long time, it makes sense to insulate not only external, but also internal walls, floors and the ceiling of the barn. To date, there are several ways to insulate walls:

1. Mineral wool.
2. Expanded polystyrene or polystyrene.
3. Cork plate.
4. Penofol.
5. Polyurethane foam.
6. Expanded clay (for the floor).

Warming the outer walls of the shed with mineral wool is a relatively inexpensive method with good thermal insulation properties. Due to its vapor permeability, this material perfectly ventilates not only the blocks, but also the interior of the shed. Mineral wool is resistant to fire and durable in use.

There are disadvantages of using mineral wool:

• the properties of this material are preserved only if it is isolated from moisture, otherwise, being soaked with water, cotton wool will significantly reduce its thermal insulation qualities;
• work with this material should be carried out in respirators;
• if installed incorrectly, mineral wool will create additional shrinkage, which can also affect thermal insulation.

Mineral wool - one of the ways to insulate walls

Insulation of external walls with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam is very convenient during installation. Quite often, these materials are called one foam. In fact, these materials have a common basis, but differ significantly in their characteristics.

• the density of the foam is much less (10 kg per m³) than the performance of expanded polystyrene (40 kg per m³);
• unlike polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam does not absorb moisture and steam;
• in appearance, these materials are noticeably different. Styrofoam has internal granules, and polystyrene foam has a more uniform structure;
• polystyrene prices are lower, which is convenient when purchasing it in large quantities for insulating external walls;
• expanded polystyrene has a relative strength to mechanical damage.

Unlike mineral wool, this material is cheaper, has excellent frost resistance and is able to isolate sounds well. As a thermal insulation, the performance of expanded polystyrene is significantly higher than that of mineral wool.

Reliable and cheaper way - insulation with polystyrene foam

Thermal insulation of internal walls with cork has several advantages:

• this material adheres perfectly to the adhesive layer;
• the cork structure has very good thermal insulation qualities;
• walls covered with cork material perfectly isolate sounds;
• does not require additional finishing, often used as a finishing layer.

For insulation with cork material, it is not necessary to smoothly plaster the walls.

The material is easy to install

The heat-insulating layer of foamed foil polyethylene (penofol) allows you to save heat in the room by 97%. This material is used to insulate the interior walls of the barn. When it is mounted on a wall of foam blocks, bars of small section (10x10 mm) are attached. Penofol plates are laid between the bars. Joints are sealed with aluminum tape.

The material is water repellent

Insulation with polyurethane foam is used both for roofing, exterior walls, and for interior decoration. The technology of applying polyurethane foam by spraying greatly facilitates the work of insulating the walls of the barn. Due to this property, there is no need to use adhesive solutions. Sprayed polyurethane foam is firmly attached to the wall surface and hardens immediately. This material has found its wide application due to its advantages:

• when sprayed, a heat-insulating layer without seams is formed;
• this material has low thermal conductivity;
• due to its low weight, it can be applied without the use of lags and barriers;
• the cellular structure of polyurethane foam creates tensile-compressive strength;
• the material has durability (up to 50 years of service, provided that the surface does not succumb to mechanical damage);
• relative resistance to open fire;
• polyurethane foam has a sealed and dense structure, due to which there is no need to install a vapor barrier layer;
• well isolates from the wind;
• the material does not rot, is not covered with mold fungi and is unsuitable for the life of rodents and insects;
• has a low degree of moisture absorption;
• reliably isolates from noise and extraneous sounds;
• has a high degree of environmental friendliness when used, since there are no toxic substances in the material;
• relatively inexpensive material.

If we compare the thermal insulation properties of polyurethane foam with other popular materials, then its 50 mm layer has similar qualities as an 80 mm foam layer or 150 mm mineral wool. With its fire resistance, polyurethane foam surpasses all previously mentioned materials. It ignites only in close contact with an open flame, and ignition of the material does not occur.

The material is quickly applied to the surface

Warming the floor of the barn with expanded clay gives a good thermal insulation layer. To use this material, a concrete floor is required, on which a crate of wooden beams with a section of 15x10 cm is installed in increments of 40 to 60 cm. It should be noted that the expanded clay layer should not be less than 10 cm, since the smaller thickness of the coating with this material loses its thermal insulation properties . Granular expanded clay is poured between the bars of the crate. Then the expanded clay granules are leveled so that it does not rise above the wooden structure of the crate. A vapor barrier layer is spread on top, which is covered with a subfloor made of plywood or OSB boards.

This material protects floors

Required Tools

To build a barn from foam blocks you will need:

1. Measuring tools - tape measure, building level, square and ruler.
2. Tools for the manufacture of adhesive mortar - a concrete mixer or a drill with a special mixer nozzle, a container for cement mortar, bayonet shovels for digging trenches and shovels for supplying mortar.
3. Large watering can.
4. Pump and flexible hose supply solution.
5. Stairs.
6. Hammer.
7. Putty knife.
8. Self-tapping screws and nails.

Step-by-step instructions for making a barn with your own hands

When all the tools are ready, and the necessary materials are purchased, you can proceed to the direct construction. For a barn of foam blocks, a strip foundation was chosen. To install it you need:

1. First of all, you need to level the place for future construction. When the site will have a flat surface, you need to make markings according to the dimensions of the future barn. This is done with a cord and pegs.

   It is more convenient to do this with a cord

2. Dig a trench around the perimeter of the future barn. It is desirable that its depth is below the freezing point. Usually it is from 30 to 50 cm, and in some soils (for example, with a high content of clay) up to 100 cm. The width of the trench should be 30 cm.

   It is desirable to do the depth below the freezing point

3. Then pour sand into it, which must be tamped down to form a uniform layer, 10 cm thick. A layer of crushed stone 10 cm thick must be poured onto the sand cushion. Lay a waterproofing layer on the sand and gravel layer along the entire perimeter of the trench. This is necessary to prevent the absorption of liquid concrete into the lower layers. Waterproofing should cover not only the top of the rubble, but also the earthen walls of the trench.

   Compacted wet sand covered with gravel

4. Build a formwork for pouring concrete. Usually it is made of wooden boards or metal. The height of the formwork should be above ground level and reach the height of the basement of the future barn. To create a strong formwork structure, it is fixed with spacers and clamps, and the upper part is fixed with props. Lay a metal frame or reinforcing mesh on the waterproofing layer along the entire perimeter of the trench. This requires metal rods with a thickness of 10 to 12 mm.

   Reinforcing cage firmly fastens the wire

5. Pour the reinforcement frame with M200-250 concrete. The entire perimeter must be filled at one time. To avoid cracking of concrete, it is not recommended to pour it in rainy weather or in extreme heat. Concrete hardens under normal conditions for about 4 weeks. This is the time when it can withstand the calculated loads. These setting times are called control.

   The monolithic structure of the foundation will become a reliable support for the building

6. When the concrete base has hardened, it is necessary to prepare its surface for further construction. Concrete should be cleaned of dirt and dust. If there are any defects in the base (sharp protrusions), they must be processed. Before laying the first row of foam blocks, it is necessary to cover the top of the concrete base with a waterproofing material. As it is used hydroisol or roofing material.
7. For foam blocks, prepare an adhesive solution of sand and cement in a ratio of 1: 3.
8. Start laying the first row of foam blocks. It must be made from the corners of the future building and continue along the entire perimeter. The thickness of the seam when laying foam blocks should not exceed 30 mm. After laying the first row, check the wall for evenness. For the strength of the walls, reinforcing bars with a diameter of 0.8 cm are used. They are laid on top before laying every fourth row of foam blocks.

   Reinforcement will betray the walls of additional strength

9. When the walls are erected, and the adhesive solution of the seams has hardened, proceed to the installation of the roof. To the top row of masonry walls, on metal studs, attach bars with a section of 50x150 mm, which will serve as a Mauerlat. The distance between the studs must not exceed 120 cm.

   A layer of waterproofing will protect the wood and blocks from destruction

10. Install extreme trusses forming gables. They can be leveled and strengthened with temporary stops. The structures of the outer trusses must be temporarily reinforced with a board nailed to the wall of the house. This is done on condition that the wall is perfectly flat. For convenience, you need to make a template with all cuts and corners. All rafters are best assembled on the ground, and then lifted for installation. Between the installed trusses, at the level of the ridge board and on both sides (at the end of the rafter legs), the twine is pulled.

    Cord required for precise mounting

11. The exposed extreme farms are fixed to the Mauerlat. The following farms are placed according to the stretched twine. For convenience, it is necessary to make marks on the Mauerlat, and only then lift and install them. For better rigidity of fasteners, it is better to use metal fasteners and linings. Over time, the wooden parts will dry out, and the nails will not provide the necessary rigidity of the fasteners.

    Metal fastenings will create additional rigidity

12. Cover the installed truss system with a layer of waterproofing membrane, on top of which the crate is installed. Under the metal tile, it is better to make one layer of bars with a section of 50x60 mm. Install roofing material.

    The light weight of this material does not create a significant load on the truss system.

13. Proceed to the insulation of the outer walls of the barn. In our case, foam was chosen as a heater. Clean the wall surface from dust and dirt. If the wall has defects in the form of protruding particles, it is necessary to level the surface.
14. Apply a primer to the wall (for example, polymin-AC5).
15. Attach the plinth strips with anchors and dowels, which will serve as a support for the first row of plates and fastening for the corners.

    Aluminum plank will strengthen the foam boards

16. Prepare an adhesive mass for foam boards (for example, polymin-P22). Pour only cold water and mix with a drill with a mixer attachment. Leave the solution for 5 minutes.
17. On foam boards, at a distance of 3 cm from the edge, apply glue around the entire perimeter. Be sure to make gaps in the glue for air to escape. In the middle of the plate, apply glue with blotches with a diameter of about 10 cm.

    In order for the wall to “breathe”, it is necessary to leave gaps in the glue

18. Attach the plate to the wall and press firmly. Do not allow adhesive to get into butt joints. Strengthen the plates glued to the wall with plastic dowels with special expansion elements.

    The expansion on the dowel will additionally fix the plate to the wall

19. Slopes of doors and windows are reinforced with perforated aluminum squares.
20. Cover the entire surface of the foam boards with a layer of 3 to 4 mm of adhesive mass. From above, using a wide spatula, distribute the reinforcing mesh. It must be evenly drowned in the glue applied to the wall. Leave for a couple of days to dry.

    Its application will level the surface of the wall for a finish coat.

21. Cover the surface with plaster or paint.

With painted walls and metal tiles, the barn looks more attractive