Toilet without sewerage in a private house: which design to choose. Do-it-yourself toilet installation: step-by-step installation of a toilet installation Do-it-yourself toilet installation

In modern private houses, bathrooms are equipped no worse than in city apartments. The availability of technology and sanitary equipment allows you to install a bath, sink and toilet even without special skills. But this does not mean that everything is so simple: in order for plumbing to serve for a long time and reliably, you need to choose the right model and familiarize yourself with all the nuances of installation in detail. This is especially true of the toilet bowl, the fastening of which has certain differences, depending on the type of floor base. Consider how to install a toilet in a private house on a wooden floor so that there are no problems with it during operation.

The toilet should be convenient and reliable to use, so you can’t buy the first model that caught your eye. It is necessary to take into account the size of the plumbing fixture, the volume of the tank, the type of fittings used for flushing, the shape of the outlet of the drain pipe. First of all, you need to decide on the type of toilet bowl: they are all divided into classic floor models and wall-mounted wall-mounted models.

The floor toilet is easier to install and maintain, since access to the tank and communications remains open. In the case of repair or replacement, a lot of time will not be required, moreover, neither the floor nor the walls will have to be restored later.

As for hanging toilets, they look much more attractive than floor-standing ones, and they take up a little less space. Models with installation are in particular demand, which allow you to completely hide the tank with all the pipes in the wall. But the installation of such toilets requires more skill and experience, besides, hidden installation limits access to pipes. If something breaks, you will have to disassemble and then repair part of the wall, which entails additional costs. So it is better to opt for the classic version.

Floor-standing toilets may differ in the shape of the outlet of the drain pipe. The choice is determined by the location of the sewer pipe, and an incorrectly selected model can significantly complicate the installation process.

Toilet outlet	Description
	The toilet pipe is located perpendicular to the floor. Connects to a drain pipe embedded in the floor under the toilet. This form allows you to install the plumbing fixture close to the wall and more efficiently use the free space.
	The outlet is parallel to the base. The connection is made to a vertical sewer riser using a cuff or corrugation
	The branch pipe comes out at an angle to the base. The connection is made to a drain pipe running along the bottom of the wall. This option is the most popular

The next criterion is flush fittings. Most modern models have built-in push-button mechanisms for draining devices, which are divided into two types:

single-mode drain - a mechanism with one button, when it is pressed, all the water from the tank is flushed into the toilet;
dual-mode drain - the mechanism has two buttons, one of which is responsible for flushing the full volume, and the second only half of the tank.

There are also options for drain fittings equipped with a stop function. Such mechanisms have one button, the first press of which lets water in, the second shuts off the flow. This allows you to significantly reduce water consumption, which is important if a large family lives in the house.

Prices for the range of toilet bowls "Roca"

rock toilets

Ways to install a floor-standing toilet

Installation of plumbing must strictly comply with building rules and regulations, regardless of whether the installation is carried out in an apartment or in a private house. But this does not mean that it is necessary to hire specialists for such work: with careful observance of the technology, any home master can cope with this. There are several ways to fix a floor-mounted toilet, and the type of floor subfloor is the determining factor for choosing.

Dowel fastening

This method is considered the most practical and requires a minimum of labor and time to complete. It is used for strong dense bases with the most smooth and even surface - concrete floors, tiles, porcelain stoneware. Fixation is carried out with long dowels or special plumbing fasteners included in the kit for the toilet.

It is recommended that a rubber or other soft material be placed between the floor and the toilet foot to ensure a tighter and more secure fit. If the toilet needs to be raised, the base is made from a piece of thick solid board, and the mounting holes are drilled straight through the wood.

When fixing the toilet bowl to the floor, do not overtighten the fasteners so as not to damage the ceramics. The fastening should not be weak either, as this leads to loosening of the plumbing.

In some cases, this installation method can also be used for wooden floors. The main condition: the floor boards must be strong, at least 30 mm thick, tightly knocked together. Long screws are used instead of dowels.

Glue installation

The method is simple, but takes a lot of time. The toilet is attached with epoxy adhesive, which takes an average of 12-15 hours to cure. All this time it is impossible to use a plumbing fixture, so as not to violate the integrity of the connection. The floor base must be strong and smooth, ideally a tiled floor.

Before installation, both surfaces are cleaned of dust and degreased; it is additionally recommended to treat the tile with an abrasive to improve adhesion. Glue can be bought ready-made or made on your own: for 10 parts of epoxy you need 20 parts of cement, 2 parts of solvent and 3.5 parts of hardener.

Advice. When preparing the adhesive mixture, the sequence of introducing the components is of great importance: first, a solvent is added to the resin heated to 50 degrees, stirred, the hardener is poured in, mixed again until smooth, cement is introduced last. The finished adhesive should have a uniform texture and be plastic.

The adhesive composition is applied to the base of the toilet bowl with a layer of 4 mm, after which the device is installed on the prepared place and pressed against the floor. Until the glue is completely dry, you can not touch the toilet, so the connection to communications is made only after 12 hours, not earlier.

Epoxy glue prices

epoxy adhesive

Installation on taffeta

This installation method is considered traditional for wooden floors. Taffeta is a backing made from a piece of solid hardwood cut into the shape of a toilet bowl and treated with an antiseptic, drying oil or used oil. Such substrates are commercially available, so if there is no suitable wood at home, you can buy factory-made taffeta. Its thickness is 40-50 mm, which eliminates any deflections and deformations of the base under the weight of the toilet bowl and the person. The toilet itself is attached to the taffeta with screws or screws included in the kit.

The wooden underlay can be screwed to the floor boards or recessed flush with the floor covering. The second option looks neater, but the installation process is more laborious and lengthy. In addition, if it is possible to cut a hole in the floor, it is better to simply fill the recess with mortar and make a concrete base for the toilet.

The floor is concreted, after the solution has dried, a toilet bowl is installed for fitting

We install the toilet on a wooden floor with our own hands

The installation process consists of two stages - directly installing the device and connecting it to communications. But before that, you should properly prepare everything and carefully plan the workflow.

Preparing for installation

First you need to clean the floor of dust and debris and carefully check the condition of the boards. Under the toilet there should be no gaps in the floor, bumps, swelling, rotten areas.

If the plank coating is strong, but has already lost its appearance, you can restore its attractiveness with the help of a scraping machine and protective and decorative treatment with oil or wood varnish.

Boards with cracks, mold spots or rot must be replaced, because under increased load the floor in these areas may fail. You should also eliminate squeaks and wobble of the floorboards in order to avoid further loosening of the toilet bowl.

If the pipes have not yet been connected, you need to determine the optimal location of the toilet in the room and this is best done using the plumbing fixture itself. To do this, it does not need to be assembled, it is enough to put the toilet body on the intended location and see how convenient this location is. Having decided, they perform markings for the outlet of the drain hole and the supply of water to the tank. Then the toilet is removed and communication outputs are prepared.

When the preparatory stage is completed, you can proceed to the main process - installing the toilet on the floor. For example, consider the method of fixing a toilet bowl with a horizontal outlet with screws to the floor boards.

Toilet installation

For work you will need:

building level;
pencil;
silicone sealant;
flexible eyeliner;
adjustable plumbing wrench;
drill and screwdriver;
screwdriver.

Step 1. Unpack all the elements of the toilet, lay them out on the floor and check the contents. If fixing screws are not included, 6x80 mm screws must be purchased separately.

Step 2 Following the manufacturer's instructions, the toilet is assembled. They start from the tank: after removing the lid, insert the flush fittings, put a plastic nut on the pipe and tighten it, thread the fixing screws through the holes in the bottom. Next, a rubber gasket is placed at the junction of the tank and the toilet bowl and the tank is lowered so that the screws pass into the holes intended for them.

Advice. The screws must not be fully tightened to avoid cracks in the ceramic. Also, all fasteners must be used with rubber or silicone gaskets.

Step 3 A silicone cuff is put on the socket of the drain pipe, and in order for the connection to be reliable, sealant must be applied along the edge. Flexible hose is screwed to the water pipe.

Step 4 The toilet bowl is placed in the chosen place, it is checked whether the outlet of the bowl coincides with the drain pipe. A level is placed on top of the tank, and then on the bowl, to make sure that the toilet is not skewed.

Step 5 Drilling points for fasteners are marked with a pencil through the holes in the rear wall of the tank. They also circle the base of the toilet bowl on the floor and mark the places of fixation with dashes on both sides. The toilet is set aside, after which they step back from the outlined dashes inside the 40 mm contour and put marks under the mounting holes. Both marks must be located strictly on the same line.

Step 6 Holes with a diameter of 4 mm are drilled in the floor, which will avoid cracking the boards when screwing in the screws. In the wall, the size of the holes should correspond to the size of the dowels.

Step 7 The surface is cleaned of dust and a sealant is applied along the contour on the floor with a continuous strip.

Advice. Try not to go beyond the contour, otherwise the sealant will squeeze out under the weight of the toilet and the fixation will be weaker.

Step 8 Carefully install the toilet according to the markup, insert the outlet into the cuff, and again check the horizontal level. If the structure is located correctly, insert the dowels and screw the tank to the wall. Then screws or screws are inserted into the holes on the leg of the bowl and carefully tightened. From above fasteners are closed with decorative plugs.

Step 9 The lid is screwed to the toilet bowl, and the installation is completed by applying sealant along the line where the toilet bowl adjoins the floor. The sealant is applied in a continuous strip, after which it is smoothed with a damp sponge and wiped off the excess.

Installation on taffeta without embedding into the floor is carried out using the same technology, only the process of manufacturing and attaching the substrate is added. To do this, take a piece of a wide, even oak board or a piece of thick plywood, put a toilet bowl on it, circle it with a pencil. Next, the workpiece is cut along the contour with an electric jigsaw, the edges are cleaned and impregnated on all sides with drying oil, used oil or a special antiseptic composition for wood. When the taffeta dries, it is attached to the floor with screws, and the toilet bowl is already installed on top in the manner described above.

Connecting communications

After installation, the final stage remains - connecting to the water supply and drain:

a sealant is applied to the outlet of the toilet bowl and the pipe is connected to the sewer pipe with a sealing cuff. If the outlet slightly does not coincide with the hole in the drain pipe, a corrugation is used instead of a cuff;
connect the water supply with a flexible hose;
turn on the flush and check the operation of the system and the tightness of the connections. If leaks are observed, it is worth tightening the nuts a little tighter;
by moving the float higher or lower, the level of filling the tank with water is adjusted.

Connect the water supply and drain to the sewer

To make sure that the toilet is working properly, you need to fill the tank several times and turn on the flush. During operation, the reliability of the connections should be periodically checked, since the wood will not last long due to leaks. If water flows under the base of the toilet bowl, over time the floor will rot and fail, especially if the installation was carried out not on taffeta, but directly on the wooden floor.

Video - How to install a toilet in a private house on a wooden floor

In 1884 UNITAS sanitary ware won first prize at the International Exhibition in London. Since then, it is difficult to imagine an apartment, house or public place without this device.

With its installation, if desired, anyone can handle it on their own. To install a toilet in a country private house, you need to understand how the product and sewerage are arranged, and fully follow the instructions for work.

Structural elements

Despite the wide variety of modern plumbing, all toilets have almost the same components:

bowl;
a toilet seat, or a seat with a lid;
cistern.

The bowl is the main element. Its shape determines how hygienic the use of the object and flushing will be. There are several varieties, each of which has its own characteristics:

poppet- an outdated form of construction, is a flat platform or "shelf". Its main drawback is unhygienic, since all waste remains on the surface until it is washed away. In addition, water constantly accumulates there, which contributes to the deposition of limescale and rust on the walls.
The only plus is the almost complete absence of splashes and splashes when rinsing.
funnel-shaped- the funnel in the center of the bowl helps to instantly flush everything that gets inside, making the use of this type of toilet bowl very hygienic. However, it is inconvenient in that splashes are formed when draining. In recent years, manufacturers have been designing models with less water intake in the water seal.
Kozyrkovaya- the most popular model. With a special ledge that prevents splashing and a slope that facilitates quick emptying of the contents and cleaning of the walls, this design is highly economical in use and hygienic.

The toilet seat must be selected in accordance with the shape and size of the toilet bowl. It is made from any materials: plastic, wood, duroplast and even fabric. Seats can be very simple or supplemented with special shock absorbers, designs for people with disabilities, a child seat. The main thing in their selection is personal taste, as well as hygiene, comfort and practicality.

A flush tank is necessary in order to flush the entire contents of the toilet and keep it clean. It can be cast iron or ceramic, plastic or stainless steel.

The main details of the tank:

rubber pear;
valve;
metal traction;
plastic float.

When draining, the pear rises, releasing water. When the water leaves, the pear falls into place and closes the drain hole.

Required Tools

Before starting installation, you need to carry out all the preliminary work and select tools and materials in advance.

For installation you will need:

toilet of the selected design;
hammer drill;
screwdriver;
set of wrenches;
hammer;
screws;
rubber gaskets;
dowels;
pipes for connection with sewerage: plastic, fan or corrugated;
plumbing silicone grease.

In addition to these tools, you may need:

pencil for marking the place;
special fastening board - taffeta, especially for installation on an old wooden floor;
if the toilet will sit on the glue, then you need epoxy glue;
emery for grinding the surface;
for final processing, red lead and tow are needed.

Preparatory work

To know what type of toilet to choose, how to fix it and connect it to the sewer, you need to determine the type of installation of sewer drain pipes:

Vertical type implies a vertical pipe extending into the floor. This is an outdated design, used most often in old houses.
At horizontal outlet pipes are parallel to the floor. This is the most common way of laying sewer pipes now.

Turn off all appliances: washing machine, dishwasher, boiler.
Turn off the water by closing the main valve.
If necessary, dismantle the old toilet bowl.
Using a pencil or marker, mark the installation site of the structure, all communications.

Installation on a wooden floor

Having marked the place of installation of the toilet bowl and connection with the sewer, you can proceed directly to work:

We select pipes that will attach the toilet to the sewer.
We collect the entire structure, mount the pipes.
On the floor we mark the exact places where the toilet bowl is attached.
With a vertical sewer drain, it is necessary to mark and drill a hole for the pipe.
If you plan to use taffeta - a special oak panel, then now you need to prepare it. The taffeta is treated with an anti-corrosion protective compound, and the attachment points are marked on it.
A cement layer is installed between the floor and the panel. The rest of the work can be done only after it has completely hardened.
Next, screws attach the toilet to the taffeta. Screws are best pre-treated with a special lubricant. To protect the structure, rubber gaskets are used.

Tile installation

If the floor in the bathroom is not wooden, but concrete and covered with tiles, you can do without the use of taffeta. The toilet is attached directly to the floor using dowels inserted into the prepared holes:

Before that, all holes are cleaned of dust and dirt, treated with grease and filled with silicone.
Dowels are inserted into them. The floor along the contour is also covered with sealant for better protection against leaks.
The toilet bowl is placed in the marked place, bushings are inserted into the holes and bolts are screwed in.
Plugs are put on.
Excess sealant should be removed immediately with a spatula.

Glue mounting

One of the easiest installation methods is to "land" with epoxy glue. It is suitable for both bathrooms with wooden floors and tiles:

First, the area of \u200b\u200bthe floor on which the toilet will stand, and its lower part, are thoroughly cleaned.
The wooden floor needs to be sanded a little.
The floor area and the base of the toilet must be degreased with any solvent.
After that, both surfaces must be coated with glue, the layer must be at least 4 mm.
The structure is put in place and pressed to the floor for better bonding. In this case, it is very important to ensure that the socket is exactly parallel to the sewer pipe.
Excess glue is best removed immediately with a wet sponge or cloth.
After that, for a reliable connection, you need to leave the structure for 12 hours or more.
After the allotted time, you can connect to the sewer using a corrugated pipe or any other selected in advance.

Conclusion

With any installation method, remember that all work must be carried out carefully, without fuss. All pipe connections must be airtight, you can use minium and tow or special electrical tape for this, wrapping it around the joints.

If in an old house there is a wooden floor with bumps, swellings, then taffeta must be used to install the toilet. This will prevent it from splitting, warping and leaking.

After the toilet is connected to the sewer, you can install the seat and cistern. At the end, be sure to check for leaks. To do this, you need to drain the water from the tank several times and check all the attachment points. If everywhere is dry, then the structure is installed correctly and it can be used.

It is impossible to live in a private house without amenities; homeowners try to make amenities comfortable. In the modern world, the possibility of discharging wastewater in is not everywhere found. For home and summer cottages, a good option would be to build an autonomous toilet without sewerage in a private house.

The article discusses the types of toilets without sewage, indicates the advantages, disadvantages for the choice, describes how to make a toilet in the country with sewage and how to care for the reservoir. Experienced owners and new owners of individual plots will find material for reflection.

general information

Scheme for the construction of a toilet for a summer residence and a cesspool device without a bottom and with a bottom

Hearing the phrase "toilet in a private house without sewerage", the owner imagines the work of digging a pit and building a reservoir for the accumulation of waste. The construction of such toilets is common and known from time immemorial.

You should not get hung up on this option, the modern construction market provides a choice of mechanisms that are also able to work autonomously, but are relatively more comfortable.

We will look at the classic way to build a toilet, and innovative solutions in this area.

Stationary toilets

Stationary toilets are built options that require a reservoir for the accumulation of sewage.

The stationary toilet consists of two parts:

The upper part is where the toilet or any other device with similar functions is installed.
The lower part is an underground autonomous structure designed for the accumulation of waste and its storage until disposal.

Stationary toilets are divided into four main categories according to the type of storage tank.

The cheapest and easiest way to implement. In contrast to significant advantages, it has a number of categorical limitations:

a cesspool cannot be used if groundwater flows near the toilet;
self-cleaning is often impossible - it is necessary to call special equipment.

It is an ordinary pit, usually square or rectangular, not lined, or lined with ordinary brickwork. The volume of the tank is set with a large margin, it is not recommended to go deeper than three meters - you can not reach deep groundwater. A lid is laid on top, where we build a cabin for a home toilet.

In modern construction, it is almost forgotten; more ergonomic solutions have come to replace it.

Pit with vertically laid. The main advantage is that if you have a sealed bottom and a quality one, you can make a toilet in a private house, and also place it much closer to living quarters and edible vegetation than the previous option. Do-it-yourself cleaning is already possible here, it is highly recommended to call a vacuum truck at least once a year or two.

Periodically pumping out the sewer well is necessary

Due to the aggressiveness of the environment accumulating in the container, it serves as a breeding ground for harmful bacteria and the manifestation of a persistent unpleasant odor, which is almost impossible to neutralize on its own or possibly partially, for a short time. Special equipment will qualitatively clean the tank from hard deposits and disinfect the tank.

It differs from a cesspool in that a concrete bottom with a reinforced mesh is poured into the dug pit, after complete drying, reinforced concrete rings are laid on it, the joints and cracks of which are treated with hydrophobic substances. Laying the rings requires the use of a manipulator or even a crane - make sure that there will be an entrance for them.

A very interesting and effective way in terms of tightness. The tank, made in the form of a huge monolithic plastic tank, is indifferent to the aggressive environment of waste, does not absorb them.

In terms of durability, the caisson is superior to reinforced concrete - it is enough to arrange a bathroom once, and it will last at least a century. It has resistance to the deposition of hard deposits - plastic has a smooth surface, while concrete is distinguished by porosity and roughness.

The principle of construction is still the same - a pit is dug, only instead of rings a large plastic barrel is lowered into it. Although it is large, it is light enough to lay down with the help of two or three people. The way to care for it is still the same - either manually dispose of the contents, or call a vacuum cleaner. The cost of such a tank is approximately equal to the purchase of reinforced concrete rings along with delivery and installation, the advantages are obvious.

The most advanced self-contained toilet tank that can accumulate and clean waste, bringing clean water back to the ground. This is achieved by a multi-compartment design, in the first tank heavy fractions accumulate and settle, in the second clarified water is treated with active bacteria that decompose dangerous organic matter into harmless substances. The third compartment sends clean water back to the ground through the drain.

This is an eco-friendly and modern stationary toilet in the house, which does not require frequent calls for a vacuum cleaner. Due to the removal of purified water, waste does not accumulate so rapidly, and bacteria neutralize the unpleasant odor in the country house. The tank will cost a pretty penny, but it pays for itself in the absence of regular maintenance by specialists.

When building a toilet, it should be understood that the remoteness of the site from civilization plays a big role in compiling the cost of calling a sewer. If he travels very far to you, then take care of the large size of the storage tank.

Sewer pipe outlet option

Portable toilets

Cumbersome stationary options that require large-scale construction work have been replaced by modern portable toilets. They are represented by several types, which differ in the way waste is disposed of.

bucket toilet

Cheap, simple but not hygienic toilet. It is a bucket with a lid-seat. Problems arise at the stage of waste disposal. As an option - a garbage bag previously worn inside. In the case of this type of toilet, the method of disposal lies on the conscience of the owners.

Waterless mechanical toilet

A device that packs waste in a sealed plastic bag at the touch of a button. Behind or on the side there is a reservoir for collecting plastic bags. A waterless mechanical toilet in a wooden house does not require any communications, water or electricity.

Electric toilet

Due to the innovation of technology, such a toilet is not common in the summer cottage segment.

The role is played by the high cost and the need to connect ventilation and electricity. Waste is dried from moisture and collected in a storage tank, cleaned after full filling.

peat toilet

Here, the waste is poured, which makes it possible to dispose of sewage on site. In the presence of ventilation, a peat toilet is the most profitable and environmentally friendly way of disposal.

Chemical

It consists of a tank with water containing chemical reagents and a tank for waste accumulation. Disposal is carried out on site by a chemical reaction - a qualitative and naturally-friendly method. Requires a supply of chemicals, connected plumbing and ventilation are desirable.

Conclusion

Stationary and portable self-contained toilets help out in cases where it is not possible to connect to a central sewer for waste disposal. A variety of construction and installation options allow you to choose a comfortable and cost-effective toilet for your capabilities and needs. Regular maintenance will ensure the high environmental friendliness of the bathroom and the absence of annoying odors.

Users who have come across the services of plumbing specialists know firsthand about the high prices for any plumbing work, even the smallest ones. Carrying out all operations, including the dismantling of old equipment, can result in a tidy sum, so installing a toilet with your own hands will save someone significant financial resources.

Before installing a toilet bowl with your own hands, it is useful to study the technology for installing plumbing equipment, the rules for working with flooring, which is most often tile. Also, when carrying out work, you will need a standard household or construction power tool, fasteners that come with the toilet, or more reliable ones purchased from a distribution network.

Most often, new toilets are purchased for installation in apartments and private houses, sometimes they are placed in summer cottages, in the private sector in village-type toilets, using their old ones or buying second-hand products.

The distribution network presents an extensive range of different types of toilet bowls, depending on the design, installation, material of manufacture, they are divided into categories according to the following distinctive features.

The comfort, hygiene and functionality of using a sanitary ware depends on the execution of the bowl, there are three main designs:

funnel-shaped. In it, the drain hole is located in the center, the design ensures a thorough and quick removal of waste products, a significant drawback of this arrangement is the formation of a splash when waste falls. To get rid of splashes in a funnel-shaped structure, an anti-splash function is often implemented by making a drain hole of small depth (30 - 40 mm) with a back slope.

poppet. It is a platform in which the drain funnel is pushed forward - this leads to the fact that the waste first enters and lingers on a flat platform, after which it is washed off with water. The disadvantage of the design is low hygiene, requiring too frequent use of the brush, so the dish-shaped form is considered obsolete and is practically not used in modern toilet bowls.

Kozyrkovaya. The most common bowl shape found in modern toilets, the drain hole is pushed forward, and the waste enters the funnel, going down the sloping bottom. To prevent splashing, there is a small ledge on the top of the drain to prevent splashing.

Recently, a new type of hygienic toilet bowl has appeared on the market, in which microbes have nowhere to hide, the design is called rimless and is a bowl with solid inner walls, which in appearance is not much different from the typical one.

Water supply during flushing

The water coming from the drain tank washes away the waste along the following trajectories:

direct flush. Water comes from the front of the flush hole - this causes increased noise, splashing, incomplete coverage of the bowl. The advantages of the design include durability and low cost, in addition to the disadvantages listed, the need for more frequent maintenance of the bowl can be cited.

Circular flush. With this arrangement, water jets move towards the waste in the center of the bowl from all sides - this allows you to process up to 95% of its surface with low noise and no splashing. Naturally, the price of a flush toilet is slightly higher than that of a direct flush design.

Release type

Sewer pipes in apartment buildings are usually placed in the walls, sometimes they are more aesthetically located in the floor (on the first floors of individual houses). Accordingly, the design of plumbing fixtures should take into account a similar arrangement of pipes, so toilets are produced with the following types of outlet pipes:

Horizontal. Toilets with such a tap are connected to vertically placed risers in the walls. A branch located parallel to the floor plane is convenient if the entry point to the vertical riser is technically impossible to locate at the level of the screed and you have to connect the device at some distance from the floor.

Typically, most modern toilets have this design because of its versatility - if you need to lower the entry point to the riser lower, use special corner adapters, eccentrics.

oblique. The release at an angle of 140 - 145 degrees is done in the toilets a little less often than a straight one, the bowl is connected to a vertical riser almost at floor level. The advantage of the design is the absence of stagnation in the corrugation - all waste completely drains into the sewer riser due to a significant slope. Modern toilets with an oblique outlet are less functional due to restrictions in connecting to a riser at a higher height.

Vertical. More often, toilets of this design are used in individual housing construction, where there is no need to use an interfloor riser. In this case, the device is put on a sewer pipe coming out of the floor using a straight adapter pipe.

Bowl placement method

Toilets must withstand not only their own weight, but also the mass of the person on the bowl, their design, depending on the location, is of the following types:

floor. In this modification of the classical type, the bowl has a flat base with two through holes, through which it is attached to the floor with screws with dowels, anchor bolts. Floor sanitary equipment is designed for installation in spacious toilet rooms, the installation itself is simple and takes a minimum of time.

Note: One of the modern varieties of floor models are wall-mounted types that have a flat drain tank and a drain design that allows you to put the toilet close to the wall - this saves space in the toilet room.

Separately, you can select a special one, which has a triangular shape for installing a toilet bowl in the corner of the toilet. The corner model allows you to move away from established patterns when arranging a toilet room, is an original design solution, in some cases (square-shaped rooms) outperforms the traditional arrangement in practicality.

Suspended. The design allows you to hang the bowl on the wall, thanks to the reinforced body, it can withstand weight up to 400 kg. Usually, the flush tank of a wall-hung toilet is hidden in the wall, leaving a button on the surface to control its operation. Wall-hung toilets are designed for installation in a small toilet room and, thanks to the open floor, make it much easier to clean the room.

tank location option

The drain tank can be attached to the bowl or be located at some distance from it, supplying water through the pipeline, and the distance can be as long as desired.

Separate tank and bowl. This modification was widely used in the toilet rooms of the Soviet era, the tank rose high above the toilet bowl, and water entered the bowl through a long vertical pipeline. Such toilets are now little used due to the lack of a retail network, with the exception of exclusive options for arranging residential premises in a certain design style.

Combined toilet. This is a classic model of the vast majority of toilet bowls, in which the tank is located directly on the bowl, which is its support. The advantage of the design is ease of installation - to install the toilet, two holes in the floor are enough, to which the base is screwed.

One of the varieties of the combined design toilet bowl is a creative version, which is a monoblock cast from one billet. The model does not require fastening the tank to the bowl with metal bolts through and sealing their butt joint with a rubber ring.

Hidden tank. A tank hidden behind a false wall is a recently popular type of installation called installation; for its implementation, the tank is placed on a metal frame and hidden behind the wall lining, bringing the button that controls the drain to the surface. The bowl is placed on the floor or hung on the wall, the flush tank is usually made of plastic.

Water supply to the tank

For aesthetics and ease of placement, modern tanks are produced with a right or left lower water supply to the body, products with side holes for water supply are less common.

Manufacturing materials

The list of components from which toilet bowls are made is not too wide, the main ones are:

Porcelain. The material is a burnt mixture of clay, quartz sand, kaolin with other additives. Porcelain has low porosity, does not absorb odors, the service life of porcelain sanitary ware reaches 50 years. The disadvantages of porcelain include its fragility and high cost, inaccessible to many consumers.

Faience. The raw materials and technology for producing faience are similar to the production of porcelain, the material has a large porosity - this leads to a deterioration in hygienic indicators. It is well absorbed into the faience surface, odors are retained, therefore, all faience sanitary ware is covered with a dense water-repellent glaze during manufacture.

Due to their low cost, wide color palette, resistance to almost all aggressive chemicals, ease of maintenance, service life of at least 30 years, faience products are in great demand among consumers and are leaders in sales among other types of sanitary ware.

The disadvantages include the fragility of faience products, inherent in all ceramics, as well as the appearance of small cracks over time, weakening the material and changing color.

stainless steel. Toilet bowls made of metals, more precisely stainless steel, due to their lightness and strength, are usually installed in public places, mainly in land, sea and air transport (trains, planes, ships).

On sale you can find cast-iron enameled bowls without a tank under your feet, which in Soviet times were installed in rural-type public toilets. Now, with an increase in culture, they are not in high demand, but are still produced at obsolete production and sold in the distribution network.

Plastic. The current state of technology allows the production of plastic sanitary ware, as reinforced acrylic products have high strength, low porosity, and are easy to maintain. The disadvantages of polymers include low mechanical strength and susceptibility to thermal deformation.

Glass, stone. Natural and artificial stone, glass, serve as materials for the exclusive manufacture of sanitary ware and, accordingly, have a prohibitive price for the average consumer. It is convenient to make a monoblock structure from artificial stone, imperceptibly and firmly connecting two castings (a bowl and a tank) with a liquid composition for their manufacture.

Removing an old toilet

Before you install the toilet yourself, you need to get rid of the old plumbing fixture. For the removal of the toilet by employees of specialized firms, you will have to pay about 500 rubles. - the amount is quite tangible for the average citizen, given that the work takes no more than half an hour of time and because of the simplicity any owner can do.

Dismantling work when removing a typical floor-standing toilet is carried out in the following order:

Shut off the water supply with a ball valve near the flexible pipe, drain water from the tank.
Unscrew the inlet hose from the water pipe with an adjustable wrench.
Proceed to remove the two mounting screws at the bottom. If they have a hex head, use a wrench, some old toilets may have been mounted on slotted screws, which makes them much more difficult to remove. Usually, fixing screws become rusty and salty as a result of long-term operation, deposits can be softened, dissolved with kerosene, household chemicals to remove limescale and rust stains in household plumbing, WD-40 grease.

Note: If there is no time or suitable solutions to dissolve rust and salt deposits, the old toilet is broken out of the fasteners by moving it to the sides or breaking the base near the screws with a hammer (chisel). Also, the toilet is broken when it is walled up or glued to the floor with a cement-sand mortar.

After removing the fasteners or destroying the base, the toilet is lifted and slightly tilted back to drain the water, and then taken out of the toilet room and placed on the floor with a tank against the wall to secure it from tipping over.

The corrugation is disconnected from the toilet (if it was removed along with it), the cold water supply hose is unscrewed, and then the bowl with the tank attached to it is disposed of - the weight of the assembled structure is not so high for any healthy man.
The screws remaining in the floor, if they have not been unscrewed, are not difficult to unscrew with pliers or, in extreme cases, cut off with a grinder (metal blade).
Upon completion of all work, close the sewer hole with a rag (so that it does not get dirty, you can put it in a plastic bag), remove dirt from the toilet room.

Installing a new toilet

Do-it-yourself installation of the toilet bowl in the toilet is done using a puncher or a home drill with a beating function, you will need dowels with screws (included in the delivery), a wrench of a suitable size for tightening the screws and the simplest household tool (tape measure, hammer, marker). Of the consumables, silicone grease and sealant may come in handy. Before installing the toilet bowl, the drain mechanism in the tank is assembled according to the operating instructions.

Types of fasteners to the floor

The bowl of a typical toilet bowl is attached to the floor in the following ways:

For dowels with screws. Most floor standing toilets come with two wall plugs and hex head screws. To fix the bowl, holes are drilled in the floor, dowels are driven in and screws are screwed into them with a wrench. There is a second type of fastening with dowels, in which studs with external threads are screwed in instead of hexagonal screws. After installing the bowl on the studs, it is fixed with union nuts.
For anchor bolts. The method is used when it is necessary to ensure high rigidity of fasteners. To do this, anchor bolts with an external thread are driven into the drilled holes, the bowl is fixed with union nuts. Instead of anchors, threaded studs can be used, which are embedded in the floor on cement mortar placed in drilled holes of a larger diameter.
On a wooden base. In Soviet times, toilets were placed on short pieces of wooden boards laid in recesses of concrete slabs and immured with a cement-sand screed. After removing the old toilet, you can use this fixing method, using a board instead of plastic dowels. In this case, after installing a new toilet in place of the old one, it is screwed to the floor with wood screws into the board. Since the diameter of the screw is quite large, holes are pre-drilled in the wooden base to facilitate screwing.

How to install corrugation on the toilet

The distribution network sells a wide range of elastic corrugations for connecting toilet bowls to a sewer drain, when the bowl has an oblique outlet, additional elements are unlikely to be needed when connected to a standard outlet with a diameter of 110 mm.

If the user has purchased a product with a direct outlet and the vertical pipe of the riser is located at a short distance from it from below, in order to install the corrugation, a rigid adapter from a right angle to an inclined one (sometimes an eccentric is additionally installed) is required, placed on the outlet pipe of the bowl or in the sewer pipe.

Instead of a corrugated one, you can use a rigid connection of the bowl with a drain sewer pipe, which has less resistance to water flow and is more hygienic, however, it is more difficult to implement such a connection with your own hands, more expensive in terms of finances and time.

Corrugation to a typical toilet is connected as follows:

To facilitate installation, lubricate the outer and inner surfaces of the corrugations at the points of contact with the bowl nozzle and the sewer pipe with silicone grease. You should not follow the lead of many plumbers who throw other people's money down the drain for silicone and cover the corrugation with silicone sealant that is absolutely useless in this application.
They put the corrugation on the outlet pipe of the bowl, bring the toilet bowl to the sewer drain and place the other end into it.
They put the toilet in the installation place, fill the drain tank and drain the water, checking the tightness of the connection with a dry piece of fabric, if wet spots appear on the fabric, slightly turn and move the corrugation, and then let it settle for some time.

Toilet installation step by step

After assembling the drain system in the tank, it is screwed to the bowl and the toilet bowl is fixed, the work is carried out in stages in the following sequence:

A flexible hose is screwed to the drain tank, a corrugation is installed on the bowl, the toilet is brought into the toilet and connected to the water pipe and sewer drain in the above way.
Turn on the water supply, after filling the tank, drain it and check the tightness of all connections at the connection points of the flexible piping and corrugations. If drops are not found, proceed to further operations, otherwise they press the flexible eyeliner or move the corrugation.
Check the location of the toilet bowl: measure the distance from the base of the bowl to the opposite walls with a tape measure, making it the same, track the position of the drain tank, making sure that there is a small gap (10 - 20 mm) and its location is parallel to the back wall. Open inspection doors for review and access to, making sure there is no interference. By inserting a marker in the center of the holes in the base of the bowl, mark two mounting points for fasteners.

Turn off the water supply with a ball valve, disconnect the flexible connection from the water pipe, drain the water, raise the toilet bowl with a slight slope back and take it out of the toilet.

Important: Some plumbers make marks on the bowl without a tank to simplify and facilitate the work - this decision is fraught with errors and makes it difficult to choose the optimal location of the toilet without tracking the full picture.

Next, they start drilling holes in the floor tiles (porcelain stoneware, gres, tiles, etc.) using a puncher or a household drill. To do this, a small piece of tile is very carefully beaten off with a sharp core, and a hole is made in it with a ceramic drill (feather type) in the normal rotation mode. The work is greatly simplified if the holes coincide with the tile seam.
After drilling the tiles, change the drill in the puncher to a victorious one and switch the tool to the mode of simultaneous rotation and beating. The required immersion depth is marked with tape on the drill, taking into account the length of the screw and the thickness of the base of the toilet bowl, then holes are drilled.

Important: It should be noted that the dowels and screws often included with the toilet do not technically correspond to its mass, that is, on a floor with slight irregularities, the toilet will loosen in a short time and begin to swing on the ledges. Therefore, it is rational to purchase more powerful fasteners with dowels and bolts with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm in the distribution network - this will ensure a stable, reliable and durable fastening of the toilet bowl to the floor.

After drilling holes, dowels are carefully driven into them and the toilet is taken into place, connected to the water supply, draining the sewer system, checking the correct operation of the tank and the presence of leaks. If there are no complaints, screw the toilet bowl to the floor with screws, be sure to place gaskets from the kit or purchased from the distribution network under the caps.
At the end of the work, you should install the lid on the toilet according to the instructions, the procedure is quite simple and will not take much time.

Why you need a sealant

Many professional plumbers, due to the specifics of their work, are so accustomed to silicone sealant that they cannot do without its constant use in all cases, regardless of the costs - after all, the customer pays for the material. Therefore, when installing a toilet bowl, most of them recommend slightly raising it above the floor and pumping one or two silicone tubes under the base to increase stability and protect against water leakage.

Silicone is not so expensive, but if the bowl is installed on a floor with high teeth, due to the constant deformation of the sealant during cleaning, its stability may be impaired over time, moreover, when the toilet is removed for a short time, its bottom will have to be silicone again. The sealant can be painlessly replaced with an elastic backing from a piece of linoleum by cutting it along the contour of the base.

In other situations, on a flat floor, instead of a sealant, it’s a good idea to put one or more layers of foamed polyethylene under the base, which is used as a substrate when laying a laminate, or replace it with similar materials - in almost all cases it costs nothing and you can save some money without buying silicone.

For a consumer with a low financial income, self-dismantling of the old toilet bowl with the installation of a new one will save the amount of about 3,000 rubles that he would have spent using the services of plumbers from specialized firms.

If you managed to figure out the instructions and install the drain system in the tank yourself, then carrying out further work will not cause any special difficulties for any owner, even in the absence of building skills.

When there is no power tool at home, the problem can be solved by borrowing a hammer drill from friends or by renting it from one of the specialized companies.

A bathroom is an important component of any home, whether it is an apartment or a private building. And if things are simpler in apartment buildings, then the design and design of these rooms in a private house or in the country is an activity that requires a special approach.

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Peculiarities

The bathroom of a private house is a separate room with a certain functionality. Its distinctive feature from the urban counterpart is the need to think through the sewerage system. The construction of a private building is associated with a number of factors. A place for a bathroom and a toilet is chosen at the design stage. However, it often depends on communication systems.

Conducting electricity and water should be organized in the best way. Access to the premises should be convenient for all family members. When designing, they choose the optimal footage before creating load-bearing walls - then their demolition will be impossible. Calculate the approximate distance for the installation of plumbing, washing machine and furniture. Sometimes the design involves the installation of niches and partitions.

Usually in such a bathroom there are no windows, so you have to make up for the lack of light. Complicating factors in the layout of the finished building are the presence of a broken perspective, lack of footage, as well as sloping walls. It is bad when the ceiling is low in the house. This factor directly affects the design of the bathroom and forces us to abandon frame structures. And they are the best choice for decorating the ceiling space of the bathroom if the house is built from an array.

Kinds

All existing types of bathrooms in the house itself can be divided into 2 types: joint and separate. A common factor for them is sewerage.

Separated. Such a bathroom means two rooms isolated from each other. As a rule, a smaller area is allocated for the toilet. This room has no windows, it is strictly functional. Possibilities for arranging a bathroom depend on the total footage. If it is small, install a compact bath and sink. When the area allows, the dimensions of the bathtub increase, its shape changes from the traditional oval to a round one. Sometimes it is embedded using a rectangular model.

Combined. The combination of a bathroom and a toilet opens up more arrangement possibilities. It allows you to save the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe house, reduce the cost of finishing the wall between two functional rooms. In a joint bathroom, you can install furniture and plumbing of standard sizes. This leaves room for accessories. Often, the combination allows you to place in the bathroom, in addition to the bathroom, a countertop with two sinks, a shower, a shower cabin, and a bidet.

Location options

The best location for the bathroom is the option with the entrance from the bedroom. If there is only one toilet in the house, it is preferable to set aside a place for it near the bedrooms or dressing room. It is undesirable to build a bathroom near the kitchen and dining room. This goes against the norms of ethics, and few people like to put up with unpleasant odors.

From the point of view of requirements, the bathroom should not be located above the living quarters. This rule applies to two- or three-story buildings. Otherwise, it will be difficult to document it. If the house has more than one floor, one toilet is placed strictly above the other. You can successfully place a bathroom under the stairs leading to the attic or second floor. At the same time, it is good if the boiler room is located near the kitchen.

The toilet is installed near the riser. The maximum distance is 1 m. You can remove the bath or shower from the riser by no more than 3 m. This is necessary for the proper outflow of the sewer. Further removal will raise the question of additional installation of pumps for forced outflow. It is unacceptable to allocate a room for a bathroom with access to the living room.

Dimensions

Clear standards are provided exclusively for the design of the toilet. They are taken into account when planning the future bathroom. Bathroom dimensions are recommended only when a person with disabilities lives in the house.

Functionality matters:

if the bathroom contains only a sink and a toilet, an area of 1.2 x 1.7 m is sufficient;
if there is only a toilet in the room, its dimensions can be 1.2 x 0.85 m;
with a linear arrangement along one wall of a shower cabin, a sink and a toilet bowl, the area of \u200b\u200bthe bathroom can be 1.2 x 2.3 m;
when placing a toilet bowl with a sink and a shower on adjacent walls, the dimensions of the bathroom can be 1.4 x 1.9 m;
when the bathroom involves the presence of a bath, its area should be larger (from 5 sq. M);
you can fit a bath, toilet, bidet, sink, washing machine and table in a room of 2.4 x 2 m;
you can install a bath, a countertop for 2 sinks and a toilet, leaving a lot of free space, with dimensions of 2.5 x 1.9 m.

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Usually spacious types of bathrooms are placed in a large house (7x8, 8x8, 8x9 sq. M). Sometimes, in addition to a bath and a shower, they allocate space for a relaxation area. Masters believe that for a combined bathroom in a private house, it is enough to allocate a space of about 4 square meters. m. If the bathroom and toilet are separate, a room of 3.2 square meters is enough. m, in the second - 1.5 sq. m2.

All necessary communications

Methods for laying engineering communications practically do not differ from standard location methods. The difference lies in a more detailed approach to the issue of ventilation in order to remove excess moisture. The layout of water pipes can be top and bottom.

In the first case, they equip a storage tank in the attic. This allows you to think over an emergency supply of water, provide a gravity flow, arrange a hidden laying of pipes along the ceiling.

If the wiring is lower, the pipes are laid by the open method or under the floor. The method is not so aesthetic, however, it allows you to control the condition of the pipes and their tightness.

Regardless of the type of flooring, waterproofing is performed. The rule applies to any floor where the bathroom is located. It can be rolled, in the form of a pie of several layers. It all depends on the material of manufacture of the main structure.

The waterproofing scheme may be different. For example, sheathing is partial in the form of coating mixtures based on polymer-cement compositions. It is performed in the bath and shower area. Consider an extractor. Often natural is impossible, so you have to build a forced one. Its effectiveness directly affects the comfort of the bathroom conditions, its safety and the service life of finishing materials.

Materials and tools

Usually, for the construction of load-bearing walls, an array (log, beam) or brick is used. The choice of material depends on the possibilities of the budget, the composition of the soil, the place for construction, the weather conditions in the region. For wiring communications, polypropylene pipes, concrete, crushed stone, fittings, and a fan are used. When installing a ventilation system, you will need asbestos-cement or ceramic pipes.

For a cesspool, you will need concrete rings or brick, concrete. The two-layer cover for it is made of metal and wood. You will need a cement screed for the floor. For finishing use plaster, sheets of moisture-resistant drywall. Surfaces can be pasted over with tiles, panels. When creating a frame for the ceiling, you will need metal profiles.

Inventory depends on the type of planned work. Usually, this is a set of construction tools, including screwdrivers, wrenches, a screwdriver. A grinder, a construction mixer, as a rule, a knife will come in handy. When working with tiles, you will need a tile cutter.

The plastering process implies the presence of a container for mixing the mortar and a ladle for spraying the plaster mass. Work is carried out in special clothing, gloves and a protective mask are useful (when mixing powder mixtures).

Project creation and construction

Properly equipping a bathroom in a private house with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Initially, they draw up a project in the form of a diagram.

All the subtleties of the layout are applied to the schematic drawing, including:

ceiling height and area dimensions;
plumbing dimensions;
a system for draining fluid into a cesspool;
water supply system;
wiring diagram;
window location;
hydro and thermal insulation materials;
thickness, quantity and location of finishing materials;
number of fixtures, their location;
a set of plumbing and furniture.

You can make such a drawing with the help of a specialist or on your own (using computer design programs). You can use ready-made examples with a shower, a window (or without it), choosing the most optimal option. Sometimes an additional extension to the house is built for the bathroom.

After the plan is ready, proceed to the purchase of material and construction. Raw materials are taken with a margin and water-repellent impregnation.

Conventionally, the construction of a bathroom can be concluded in several stages:

determination of the location of the bathroom;
selection of optimal sizes;
sewerage device;
exhaust system equipment;
water connection;
installation of a waterproofing layer;
plumbing installation;
floor, ceiling, wall surfaces.

Construction takes into account maximum functionality and durability of operation. The place is selected at the highest point of the site. The size of the bathroom should be sufficient for easy movement, installation of plumbing of optimal size. It is important that the bathroom accommodates a washing machine, a small set of furniture for the necessary accessories.

Sewerage provides for the passage of pipes and the execution of a cesspool. Damping devices are used to avoid deformation during wall shrinkage. Construct a gutter in the foundation for the withdrawal of sewage. They try to provide for the possibility of repair or cleaning. For draining, plastic pipes with a diameter of 10 cm are taken.

If one of the walls of the bathroom goes outside, it will be used under a natural hood. To do this, a hole is made on the ceiling. If this technique is ineffective, take a fan and pipes made of non-combustible material. They are brought to the holes using special brackets. These elements exclude the contact of pipes with the building material. The fan is protected from moisture.

Under the waterproofing of the bathroom may mean sheathing after antiseptic impregnation of the walls. You can use roofing material, fill with a polymer composition or a waterproof mixture with a waterproof membrane. A good waterproofing is laying tiles on a cement composition. The ceiling is sometimes constructed suspended (in order to disguise utilities and embed fixtures).

Plumbing is installed based on the standards of remoteness in relation to each other and the riser. Use high-quality connecting elements and installation. With a combined bathroom, fittings are selected in the same style to create the illusion of an ensemble. Forms are trying to pick up rounded to avoid injury.

Finishing

Decorating a bathroom is an activity that requires a creative approach. The opinion about the exclusivity of the tree is outdated. Its abundance annoys the household when the tone of the floor, walls, ceiling and furniture is identical. It creates the feeling of being in a wooden box. This is unacceptable and creates an oppressive atmosphere. In addition, often the tone of the wood hides the level of lighting in the bathroom. The focus is on interesting ideas, cladding, which allows you to make the interior expressive. It is important to use lightweight materials that are environmentally friendly and do not need complex frame systems. This need is connected with the shrinkage of the house, which distinguishes private village buildings and country houses. Light finishing raw materials are also appropriate if the house is built of brick or foam blocks.

More often, finishing is carried out on cement plaster. Gypsum material absorbs moisture and flakes off the surface. It is also undesirable in a separate toilet, where there is almost always condensate. Surface finishing with ceramic tiles is carried out after shrinkage of the entire structure. Sometimes you have to wait for this moment for 1 year. A similar technology has slats, which can be wall and ceiling. If the house has sat down, the ceiling can be decorated with a plasterboard construction with a stretch film. You can use the cassette method of registration. Its technology makes it possible to accommodate panels-luminaires instead of individual parts. Wallpaper in the bathroom is undesirable - under the influence of moisture, they will move away from the base.