Installation of roof eaves. How to install and fix roof eaves: tips for different types of ways to fix roof eaves

Ebbs are part of the drainage system, which is necessary for roofs with any coating. The presence of these elements allows you to quickly remove moisture from the roof and prevent rotting, material corrosion and leaks in the structure. To achieve these goals, you should correctly select and install the ebb, taking into account the characteristics of the roofing material.

Correct installation of roof sills

The gutters connected to each other and to other elements of the drainage complex are called ebbs. They can have a triangular, rectangular or circular cross-section, which is the most common. Their principle of operation is that water flows down the roof surface and enters the gutters, and through them enters the drainage systems. Thanks to this, moisture does not accumulate on the roof, which prevents corrosion, rotting and damage to the coating.

Roof drips are matched to the color of the roofing

The design of ebbs always presupposes the presence of connecting elements, thanks to which it is possible to create a gutter of the desired length. At the same time, the installation of the system on different types of roofs requires adherence to technology.

When self-mounting, it is worth considering the following features:

the low tide is located with a slope towards the intake funnel, which will ensure effective drainage of sediments. For 1 m of pipes, a slope of 4–5 mm is required;
the diameter of the gutter depends on the roof area. For example, for a roof of 90 m 2, an element with diameters of 8 cm is required;
ebb tides are placed 3 cm below the edge of the roof overhang. This is to prevent damage to the element as a result of snow melting;
vertical drain pipes are installed every 5 m, and with complex roof structures, they are located at every corner;
the gutter is supplemented with a teardrop, which prevents droplets from bouncing off the tide in different directions.

Self-installation of the low tide

The gutter can be plastic or metal, but in any case, it is important to prepare tools and additional materials for work. A saw, a screwdriver and a rope, as well as self-tapping screws, will help to secure the structure. With a building level, it will be possible to check the angle of inclination, special brackets are used to install the ebb.

The gutter should be located with a slope towards the funnel and waste water intake system

For work, you will also need all parts of the system, for example, a funnel, plugs, corners connecting the inserts. First, you need to determine the location and length of the system. Funnels are often placed in the corners of a building where vertical drainage pipes are located.

Ebb for the gable of the building

The drainage elements of the roof can be different, and one of the options is the gable ebb. This detail is a canopy, which is considered part of the building and serves to drain water from walls and windows.

The visor is erected on the crate and equipped with an ebb trough

To create such a low tide option, you will need corrugated board, wooden bars 50x80 mm, roofing screws. The fastening of wooden parts to each other can be done with nails and a hammer. These parts must be made of wood with a moisture content of not more than 12%, and they must also be pretreated with an antiseptic.

The visor can be supplemented with an ebb in the form of a gutter

The complex of works to create a gable ebb involves the following actions:

The angle of inclination of the rafters for the ebb should be from 20 to 45 °, and the width of this element should be from 500 to 600 mm. The bars are sawn into parts of the appropriate size and taking into account the angle of connection of the elements.
A frame for the ebb is assembled from the bars, attaching them to the roof rafters and the wall of the building with nails and anchor bolts.
On top of the finished crate, a covering of corrugated board or metal tile is mounted, making an overlap of about 5 cm and carefully treating the seams with a sealant.

For fixing the corrugated board, roofing screws are used. In the places where the structure adjoins the pediment, the wall must be fixed with the same self-tapping screws, the metal corner, and the seam must be filled with sealant. This ensures the strength of the ebb and prevents moisture from entering the structure.

Video: installation of an ebb for the pediment

Installing a plastic drip

The plastic drainage system is lightweight and does not load the roof, and modern products are durable. Therefore, a plastic drip is often the most cost-effective and practical solution to protect the roof from moisture accumulation.

The plastic ebb is fixed on self-tapping screws

The stages of installing a plastic ebb are as follows:

After installing the rafters and fixing the waterproofing film, you need to pull the cord along the bottom of the ramp, taking into account the required slope of the low tide direction.
Install the gutter brackets on the outermost roof lathing, which is covered with a waterproofing material. Screw these elements with self-tapping screws at an equal distance from each other. The optimal step is 50–70 cm.
Connect the gutter modules into the system of the required length, mount the plugs at the ends. Fix the parts one by one on the brackets.

To check the tightness and correctness, you need to pour a bucket of water into the system at one of the ends and at the corner of the building and observe the movement of the liquid. If it reaches the special pipe and ditch quickly and does not accumulate in any part of the ebb, then the work has been done correctly.

Video: installing a PVC drain

Installation of metal gutters

Metal shims can be copper, aluminum or alloy steel. Such products are heavier than plastic ones and therefore require the same strong brackets. For the installation of metal systems, it is necessary to strengthen the crate in the area of fixing the brackets, and for this, boards with a section of 50x150 mm are used.

The metal sheen requires careful fixation, because it has a lot of weight

Installation of metal gutters involves the following steps:

A rope is pulled along the bottom of the slope at the desired level of the location of the drain and taking into account the slope. This is carried out before the installation of the waterproofing film, but after the completion of the rafters and reinforcement of the sheathing.
The gutter elements are fastened together with rivets, and then fastened to the brackets installed on the frontal roof board. The plugs are mounted on the extreme elements, pre-installing a rubber seal and complementing the joint area with roofing sealant.
A gutter with a plug is mounted in suspensions. If you plan to install a funnel, then a hole in the gutter is created in advance with a hacksaw for metal or an electric drill and a special crown of the required diameter.
After installing the ebb, a drainpipe with a funnel is attached, carefully waterproofing the joints. The system is then tested for efficiency by filling with water.

Video: an example of installing a metal gutter

How to set the corners of different widths of ebb

Forming a gutter on a roof of a complex shape or bypassing a ledge requires joining ebbs at the corners. In this case, it is often necessary to connect ebbs of different widths. For this purpose, special corners are used, namely internal connectors and external couplings, which can be with different angles.

External couplings will help to connect gutters of different widths at the corners of the building

The process of joining gutters at corners does not differ from fixing straight elements. The brackets are positioned close to the corner to ensure the strength and reliability of the system. If the corner has short edges, then the place of their junction with the straight gutter is carefully waterproofed with a roofing sealant.

Some manufacturers produce corners with markings for the downpipe

A downpipe may be located at the corner of the building and therefore an opening must be provided for installing a funnel. Using a hacksaw or a drill with a metal crown, make a hole at the corner joint for the gutters, but first you need to carefully measure the diameter of the funnel. There are also ready-made sets of funnels and corner gutters that do not require complex installation.

Video: a variant of joining the gutter in the corner area

Soft roof drainage

The roof surface covered with bituminous shingles does not provide a quick drain of moisture and therefore gutters are necessary for soft roofs. For installation, you can choose plastic models, but metal options with a polymer colored coating are more durable.

For a soft roof of any shape, gutters are needed

If plastic brackets are used, then they are fixed on the frontal board with a distance of 60 cm between the elements. The metal supports are attached to the outer board of the crate before laying the material.

The technology involves such stages as:

At one end of the edge of the crate or frontal board, a self-tapping screw is attached, an inclined line is drawn, taking into account that there is about 5 mm of slope for each meter. At the end of the line, attach another self-tapping screw and pull the rope.
Along this line, the brackets are fixed at a distance of about 50-60 cm from each other. The extreme supports are mounted at a distance of 15 cm from the end of the board.
When installing the gutter, the edge of the element, which is closer to the edge, is inserted into the fastening retainer. Release the bracket, press a little and fix the opposite edge. From the inside, glue is applied to the corner and the gutter is quickly folded. You need to push the corner all the way. Next, the gutter with the glued corner is placed in other brackets.
After that, glue is applied to the inner area and the elements are connected. Plugs are installed on the end parts.

Repair of roof gutters

As a result of the melting of snow and ice, heavy rains and strong gusts of wind, the gutters of the drainage system can be damaged. The most unstable to such factors are plastic structures, metal structures are more durable, but in any case, the system may need to be repaired.

Any type of gutter can be damaged by climatic factors

Ebb tides are affected by many factors, and a violation of the functionality of the drainage system requires prompt repair. The following situations are common:

poor moisture management is often due to the accumulation of dirt, fallen leaves and debris in the gutters. It is easy to fix the problem by cleaning the system from foreign objects;
if there is a crack in the gutter, then the element must be replaced. In the event of a fracture over the entire surface, this part must be completely replaced. Small cracks can be easily repaired with two-component cold welding;
if the elements of the drainage system have been disconnected, then you need to clean the damaged area from dirt, remove the old fasteners and carefully connect the parts, treating the joint with a sealant;
rust occurs on metal products with a damaged protective layer. It can be cleaned with a sponge and covered with anti-corrosion paint. If rust has hit the entire system, then the ebb is best replaced;
deformed pipes after many years of operation are always replaced with new ones. This is necessary for plastic and metal products that have not been repaired for decades.

The integrity and correct installation of roof sills are the key to good protection of the building from moisture. The gutter system is simple in design, but protects walls, windows and foundations from the harmful effects of water. Regular repairs are just as necessary as correct installation of gutters, as it extends the service life of the drainage structure.

Equipping a residential building or other structure with roof ebb is not a luxury, but a necessity. The investment is small and the benefits are significant. Any person who is ready to act in accordance with simple instructions and who knows how to handle tools can make the installation of ebb tides. Firstly, the service life of the blind area of the house increases (rain or melt water stops "sharpening the stone") and the structure itself. Secondly, in winter, icicles do not form on the roof, which pose a threat to the health of residents. Thirdly, ebb tides can be an additional decoration for the building.

When the decision to install roof eaves has been made, the next step is to select and purchase a complete set of elements for installation. Some measurements and calculations need to be done before purchasing. The area of the roof, more precisely, the area of the slope under which the ebb will be mounted, is important for choosing a sufficient diameter of the gutter. The average value of the drainage section is calculated based on the fact that for 1 square meter of roof, an outflow with a cross section of 1.5 square cm is required, that is, for example, for a slope with an area of 100 square meters, the diameter of the gutter should be about 15 cm.

Preparing for installation

In order not to have to interrupt work, everything you need should be at hand. Here is a list of roof drip pieces that you need to purchase and some information to calculate their number or footage. The installation of a plastic roof ebb is considered as the most common option.

Consumables and materials:

The gutter - the total length is slightly less than the perimeter or the side where it will be mounted (the funnel and connecting inserts are also sized).
Funnel.
Connecting inserts - the number depends on the length of the purchased gutters and the roof line, but 1-2 inserts should be purchased in any case, since they perform an important additional function: they prevent deformation of the entire system at high and low ambient temperatures.
End caps are required if you do not plan to create a closed perimeter system.
Brackets (holders) - the length of the ebb tide in meters is divided in half, a stock of 1-2 pieces is added to the resulting one.
The pipe is at the height of the building.
Clamps for fixing the downspout to the wall of the building.
Corner connectors - as required, depending on the configuration of the ebb line (not required for straight lines).
Fasteners - self-tapping screws, the size depends on the material to which the holders will have to be attached.

During installation, you will need the following tools:

hacksaw for metal;
file;
screwdriver;
building level;
twine (tracing cord);
pencil.

It is necessary to prepare in advance the place for draining water from the roof. It is recommended to choose it so that the water neither during the rain nor after does not harm the sidewalk or green spaces, and even more so, the water should not be allowed to undermine the foundation of the building with a powerful stream. The question is removed if the storm sewer has already been arranged. As a last resort, you can make a diverting groove.

Installation sequence

Any installation begins with marking the end board or the strip where the ebb system will be attached. The first element is a water intake funnel, therefore an axial line (transverse) is marked for it. Install holders on both sides at a distance of 15 cm from the edges of the funnel.

Both the funnel and the holders are immediately installed taking into account that the vertical drawn from the edge of the roof does not fall into the middle of the gutter, but somewhat closer to the wall of the house.

This is done so that during heavy rainfall, when water pours from the roof almost under pressure, the stream does not overflow. The fundamental operation during the ebb installation is to give the gutter the required slope, not less than 3 mm per 1 running meter. With this slope, water will not stagnate in the gutter.

Marking such a slope is the next step. With the help of a level and a sufficiently long board, a "zero" line is drawn along the lower or upper edge of the installed holder to the attachment point of the extreme holder farthest from the funnel. The difference between the mounting height of the installed holder and the final one is calculated, that is, the distance between them (in meters) is multiplied by 3. The result is obtained in millimeters. The bracket is fixed with calculations in mind.

The next step is to lay a line for attaching the holders with the help of a tracing cord. They should be located at a distance not exceeding 50-60 cm. First, markings are made for all holders, after which they are attached.

The next step is to adjust the length of the gutters. The gutter sections are placed in the holders in such a way that the spaces for the connecting inserts remain between the holders. If necessary, the gutters are shortened using a hacksaw for metal, followed by cleaning the edge with a file. The end cap is installed immediately on the ground (it is inconvenient to do this at the top). The laid parts of the gutter are connected by inserts, which, as a rule, have boundary marks. In general, the distance between the edges of the gutters to be connected should be within 6-10 cm.

When the gutter is assembled, it is placed in the holders. The resulting bias is checked. The easiest and most visual way is with water.

If everything is in order, the downpipe is being installed. It starts from the top, from the funnel. Depending on the distance from the wall, either a direct connection of the pipe with a funnel or with a bend is possible. The standard length of pipes does not exceed 2 meters, so you will have to stock up on them in advance with the required number and appropriate connecting elements.

Alternative to plastic drips

This article describes the process of installing plastic roof sills from pre-purchased elements. Sometimes it is not design that comes to the fore, but acceptable functionality and low cost. In this case, you can make the gutters yourself, for example, by cutting along a pipe of a suitable diameter or forming them from galvanized strips. Brackets can also be made by hand. If you take into account the basic rules (the roof slope does not protrude beyond the middle of the gutter, and the slope is at least 3 mm per 1 running meter), you can make ebb tides for the roof with your own hands without hassle. When the installation of ebb tides is done correctly, the house and the site are not afraid of rain and snow.

Ebb tides are an integral part of the protection system of any house from waterlogging. Experts recommend installing them to protect the walls and foundations of the house from dampness and mold. If you do not provide adequate protection, then the walls can lose their thermal insulation properties, while the building will gradually begin to lose its aesthetic appearance and collapse. From the point of view of places of protection, there are basement, window and roof sills.

In the article, we will tell you how to make ebb tides on the roof with your own hands from various materials (galvanized, plastic pipes, stainless steel), consider the process of installing ebbs, and give photo and video instructions.

Requirements

High strength, resistance to mechanical deformation and heavy loads.
Durability - due to resistance to corrosion, temperature extremes and precipitation.
Attractive appearance.

Materials (edit)

Due to the constant influence of unfavorable environmental factors (precipitation, temperature extremes, sun, wind), the correct choice of ebb material is extremely important.

Modern ebbs are made from different materials.

Cink Steel... For the manufacture of castings, steel is used in sheets up to 1 mm thick. For additional protection against corrosion and aesthetics of the structure, a polyester, pural or plastisol coating is used.

Aluminum... The thickness of the original sheets is 0.8-1 mm. To protect against corrosion, a special multi-colored varnish is used, which also makes it possible to improve the appearance of the tides.

Copper... It can be used without treatment or with oxidation or brass plating. It is considered the most beautiful, high-quality and durable material for making ebbs. It has a significant disadvantage - a high price.

Polymers... Due to their low cost, increased strength, noiselessness, UV resistance and durability, polyester and plastisol are widely used in the manufacture of ebbs. Due to its low weight and ease of installation, it is quite possible to mount roof drips.

System composition

The drainage system consists of several elements.

Gutters. Designed to collect water flowing down from roof slopes.

Funnels... They are used to receive water from gutters and further direct it into pipes.

Pipes... They are used to transport water to special water intakes.

Various twists and turns... They are used to bring pipes closer to the walls of the building, provide the ability to bypass obstacles and prevent water splashes from entering the basement of the building, by installing them at the bottom of the pipes.

Plugs... Designed to restrict water flow. They are mounted at the ends of the gutters.

Fastening elements... Special brackets are used to fix the gutters. Clamps of the required dimensions are used to secure the pipes.

Calculation of the amount of materials

The number of gutters corresponds to the length of the roof slopes.

The number of roof outlets is determined based on the length of the slopes. Usually one funnel is installed for 10 running meters of the slope. For longer roof lengths, several drainage points must be provided.

The number of pipes (total length) is calculated based on the number of drainage points, the distance from the installation sites of the funnels to the ground, taking into account the characteristics of the facade.

The number of turns is calculated based on the features of the building facade and drain points.

The number of brackets is determined based on the calculation: at least one bracket per running meter of the gutter to be mounted.

The number of clamps used for fastening pipes depends on the number and length of pipes (at least 2 for each pipe). In this case, each section of the pipe must be fixed in at least one place with a special clamp.

Ebb installation

Modern outdoor gutters are, in fact, a constructor that should be properly assembled. The tightness of the joints is provided by the manufacturer. The presence of an assembly drawing describing the principle of assembly of the structure will greatly facilitate the installation process.

When installing the gutters of the drainage system, it is necessary to follow the basic principle - the principle of the presence of slopes and tightness of the joints. A slope of 2-3 ° is required to ensure fast flow. Visually, such a bias is not noticeable and does not spoil the appearance. If desired, the slope can be increased to 5 °, but in this case it will become noticeable and the appearance of the building may be spoiled.

The assembly of individual parts of the gutters should be done in the direction of water movement. A sealant can be used to further seal the joints.

When assembling pipes, it is enough to ensure the tightness of the joints.

When installing the gutter system, the manufacturer's recommendations for fastening methods should be followed. You also need to be careful, because the work is carried out at a height.

Correct use of ebb tides will protect your home from the negative effects of precipitation, decorate it, preserve the appearance of the structure for a long time and significantly extend its service life.

Video

Find out how to install roof eaves by watching the following video:

Undoubtedly, a roof over your head, both literally and figuratively, must be strong, reliable and, preferably, affordable. With the provision of the first two points, modern high-quality materials and proper maintenance of the roof with a drainage system can do quite well, but you can decide on the component of the third point yourself, having done, for example, such a part of the work as installing ebbs on the roof with your own hands. The main thing is that the design features and types of ebb tides do not seem like a "dark impenetrable forest" to you, and we will help you to deal with the elimination of gaps in this area right now.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for installing roof eaves.

Step 1 - Select Material.

Cink Steel.

This material, like the ebbs made from it, is very durable and has a fairly long service life.

Peculiarities:

in case of violation of the integrity of the protective layer on galvanized steel, corrosion may occur due to oxidation of the material in contact with water, this, in turn, can lead the entire structure to its destruction;
steel, despite its thinnest version proposed by manufacturers, has considerable weight, this should be taken into account when carrying out installation work.

Oxidized copper.

This material gives us strong and durable ebb and, which is also important, with an aesthetically pleasing appearance.

Features of the material: considerable weight and price. Moreover, if the weight becomes a burden only during the installation of the structure, then the price of oxidized copper outflows can not only hit your wallet, but also attract the special attention of "lovers" of non-ferrous metals. So think carefully before you get such an ebb for a home in which no one permanently resides.

Aluminum.

One of the lightest in its environment, very durable.

Material features:

due to its relatively low weight, aluminum eaves are quite simple to mount;
aluminum requires special treatment with agents that prevent the formation of corrosion;
like all representatives of non-ferrous metals, this material requires special "defensive" attention.

Plastic.

Lightweight modern material, thanks to which the ebb became lighter at times and at the same time did not lose all the necessary qualities for long-term, almost unlimited, trouble-free operation.

Peculiarities:

lightness and simplicity, and yet plastic does not react with water, which completely suppresses the formation of corrosion;
a large selection of colors on the market for plastic moldings allows you to fully enjoy the chosen exterior palette.

Step 2 - preparatory and main stages of work.

As soon as you decide on the material and purchase the necessary ebbs, proceed to preliminary preparation, which consists in ensuring the desired angle of inclination of the ebbs (the minimum difference in the height of the ebb for 1 m of the structure should be 1.5-2 cm) using special brackets and gutters.

After completing the installation of ebb tides on the roof with your own hands, it is better to check the system so that errors, if any, can be eliminated immediately.

And, of course, do not forget to regularly inspect the installed water drainage system: do not allow frozen water to stagnate in the gutters! Its weight can break the structure.

Video.

The roof of a house is often compared to an umbrella: the main purpose is to protect against rain and other types of atmospheric moisture. But there is one significant difference, because the liquid flows in a solid wall from the umbrella in all directions at once, and from the roof of a modern house - only in a few specially designated places. The whole secret is in the drainage system!

And there are many subtleties here, because it is important that the entire system not only works, but also does not require constant attention due to breakdowns. Therefore, in this article we will reveal to you all the secrets: how to make ebb tides on the roof with your own hands so that everything in them is thought out to the smallest detail!

The organization of water drainage from the roof of a residential building directly depends on the shape of the roof and

A house without an organized drainage of water: is it real?

Perhaps you have ever thought that it is possible to do without any gutters at all - before in Russia, did they not do without them? Yes, not only, I practice this approach today!

For example, if the house is being built strictly in a certain style, and the drainpipes on it cannot be hidden or adjusted to the chosen exterior design in any way. In this case, the builders do everything so that the rainwater does not harm the building in any way.

For this, the roof is built so that it has a wide canopy and protrudes beyond the front of the wall by at least half a meter. Further, vertical insulation is laid on the foundation walls, and the foundation itself is a high base made of non-moisture-consuming materials, like ceramic tiles or stone.

The second step is to make the vertical planning of the territory so that there is a tangible slope from the house underfoot - so the water will drain freely from the roof and immediately leave the foundation of the house.

Ebb and flow of standard gable roof

Standard gable roof eaves consist of the following elements:

In those places where the water flow will be under high pressure (most often under the valley), a limiter is still placed on the gutter or corner of the gutter.

Organization of water drainage from a flat roof

But on the roof of a flat house, ebb tides look somewhat different:

In order to organize the drainage of water from a flat roof, at first it is equipped with a parapet with a height of 30 to 90 cm, which also serves as a fence. Next, a drain is installed, in most cases an internal one.

Internal drainage is considered to be more reliable, because such a system is almost unaffected by the weather. Installing water intake funnels only on lowered sections of the roof, which is quite logical. If your roof is up to 150 m 2, then install two funnels: a standard one with a riser and an emergency one that will remove water through the parapet.

But it is imperative that the flat roof ebb system always works properly. And for this, such a system must be passable, i.e. protected from clogging by leaves in autumn and snow in winter. For this purpose, a basket is attached to the ferrule or flange on the funnel and the heating cables are laid. And at the bottom of the pipe, an audit is mounted for cleaning and control. The water itself flows through the internal drain into the main collector.

Selection of drainage material

First, you should decide what material you want to install the gutter system from:

This is not to say that one of them will be better or worse. Plastic usually attracts by its affordability and ease of installation, metal - by its durability and reliability.

But it should be borne in mind that serious requirements are imposed on the arrangement of the drainage system at home in the Russian region:

From what material the drainage system will be made of, its practicality and durability depends. A high-quality gutter should work properly even in days of heavy rainfall, and at the same time without any splashes on the walls. The material must be sufficiently resistant to wind gusts, severe frosts and snow load. So let's take a closer look at the pros and cons of each option.

Modern metal sills are made of galvanized steel, sheet metal, aluminum, titanium-zinc, copper and polymer-coated metal. The most affordable of them in price are tin and galvanized steel, and they are also less practical, because subject to mechanical damage and corrosion. When working with such elements, you will have to use a lot of sealant and protect all joints, but this may not save you from water that will freeze in the pipes and explode them. Because of all this, the total service life of the gutter does not exceed 15 years. Still not everyone likes galvanized steel due to the fact that over time it becomes covered with whitish and rusty stains. Therefore, such steel is protected with plastic on both sides, such technologies help to increase the warranty period of the drain up to 15 years. And only in this case, the steel gutter is not afraid of acid rain, sun, or scratches.

Much more durable castings from zinc-titanium, aluminum and copper. These do not deform even with a serious snow load. But they already weigh more, are difficult to install and load the cornice a lot. For example, copper ones not only delight with their aesthetic appearance, but also have high strength characteristics. A separate type of gutters, which are not much more expensive than zinc ones, are made of aluzinc. They have a rather beautiful metallic luster and crystallization pattern, and at the same time excellent corrosion due to the presence of aluminum in the protective coating of the gutter. This element forms a stable oxide film on the pipe surface.

There is also such a type of drainage as lead. They are distinguished by remarkable resistance to temperature changes, especially sharp ones, when frost occurs in the spring at night. at the same time, lead drainage systems are so easy to assemble that they are suitable for roofs of any complex configuration.

But the most popular are plastic drainage systems. They are lightweight, practical and quiet, and at the same time much more affordable than all other types. Plastic gutters are so simple that they are not difficult to install even for a completely ignorant person.

You will probably be surprised, but today even cement gutters are produced, and quite reliable ones! But they have a significant drawback: constant shrinkage, which requires constant repair work. Who, then, buys drainage systems of this quality? Those who want to seriously save money, because such systems are cheaper than plastic ones.

Rules for the calculation and design of the ebb system

Competent installation of roof eaves always begins with its design and calculation:

First of all, you need to determine exactly where it will be more convenient for you to place the drainage system, taking into account the location of windows, doors and any protruding elements of the architecture of the house.

But how to install ebb tides on the roof of an ordinary private house, we will now tell you. So, first, the gutters are installed, taking into account the slope to the funnel. This is 3-5 mm for every 1 meter:

If you are not using self-adjusting gutter hooks, then trim to this slope:

The process of installing gutters

We have prepared for you a whole series of step-by-step illustrations and master classes so that you can understand all the details of installing waterways for a gable roof.

Step 1. Determining the slope and mounting the mount

In total, during the installation process, you will need two types of fasteners:

There are also several ways to secure the hooks, not only taking into account the slope:

Bend the gutter attachment to the desired angle using a hook and loop and attach them to the frontal board in the correct order, starting from the corner. Make sure that the distance between the brackets is the same, from 50 to 60 cm. This distance is named for a reason: this is how you will not encounter such a problem as sagging gutters and breaking tides by strong winds or a cap of snow.

Now we turn to the gutter device. If it consists of several elements, collect them on the ground. Then follow these instructions:

Step 1. Now mark the position for the future drain funnel, and on both sides, at a distance of 15 cm from the edge, install the gutter holders.
Step 2. Install the gutter holders as far as possible from the drain funnel, taking into account the slope of the gutter 0.3%.
Step 3. On the frontal board, now install the intermediate holders, between which there should be no more than 60 cm.
Step 4. Mark the locations for the corners and sleeves of the gutter. Place the chute into the holders.
Step 5. Insert the lip of the gutter into the front flange of the gutter, then rotate the gutter back until you hear a click.
Step 6. Cut the groove to the desired length with a metal hacksaw.
Step 7. Attach the groove to the holders. Cover the gutter fittings with a thin layer of sliding agent.
Step 8. Now install the drain funnel and place its rear edge over the rear flange of the gutter.
Step 9. Connect the gutter sections using couplings. Make sure that the distance of the holder to the edge of the coupling does not exceed 15 cm.
Step 10. Secure the corners to the gutter, insert the rear gutter flange into the corner flange, and snap the front gutter flange into the corner end flange.

After that, go to the plugs. Put left and right.

And now - about the difficulties. If you do not have the opportunity to place the downpipe directly above the funnel, but the distance is small, up to 10 cm from the center of the funnel to the center of the pipe, then the easiest way is to collect the indent. To do this, put a single-socket outlet on the funnel drain pipe, and put a double-socket outlet on its smooth end.

If the distance between the centers is more than 10 cm, then the indent will have to be collected from three elements. To do this, put the double-socket outlet on the drain pipe of the funnel, insert a piece of pipe into it, and push the double-socket outlet onto it.

Step 2. Preparation and installation of the gutter

Install the gutter so that it is 1 cm below the conditional roof line, and water from the drip can flow directly into the central third of the gutter. Use plumb lines to keep the gutter level. In the place where the downpipe will be attached to the gutter, you need to attach a funnel, make a markup and do the right thing:

The hole for the metal drain is easiest to cut with a drill bit. To work with a plastic chute, you will need a metal saw, a hacksaw, or a fine-toothed saw. Sand the cut edges with sandpaper or a file. Do not forget to bend the edges of the hole outward, so that later the funnel is more securely connected to the gutter:

Here's a good practical example of how to do it all with a plastic gutter:

Step 3. Connecting the gutters in different ways

Before gluing the plastic grooves, the edges of the edges must be deburred and cleaned with a cleaning agent. This is necessary in order to degrease the plastic. Only then is glue applied to the inside of the funnel.

Most modern gutters are no longer assembled with glue, but with a special lock:

And this is how the installation of a metal gutter takes place:

To connect multiple downpipes, you need couplings. During installation, their slotted sockets must face down. In this case, 1 cm of a gap is left between the stop of the socket of the coupling and the edge of the pipe. In addition, a mounting bracket is placed under each of the couplings.

And today they are developing such drainage systems that do not allow the increased flow of water to overflow. This is ensured by a specially designed shape of the gutter with special rigidity.

It has additional ribs along the entire length at once, which direct the flow of water, increase resistance to deformation and prevent the adhesion of leaves that clog the drain. Many modern roof drainage systems are manufactured with EPDM rubber gaskets. Such seals all elements of the system and at the same time do not interfere with the linear expansion of the gutters.

Install the funnel, bend its edges and fix the plug:

This is what such clamps look like in real life:

When attaching pipes to walls made of different materials, there are some peculiarities. So, pipes must be fastened to a brick wall with universal clamps with a screw with an expansion dowel, which has a length of 100, 160 or 220 mm - it all depends on whether there is insulation in the wall or not.

But to fix the pipes to a metal or wooden wall, you will need staples with a foot. Each of these brackets should be fixed to the wall using special screws for metal or wood.

If you are going to drain water from the roof directly into the storm sewer system, then install a revision with a special grate for collecting dirt on the lower part of the pipe. A good alternative would be a universal stormwater inlet, which will protect against unpleasant odors and low temperatures leakage. Then there is no need to put a grate in the drain, because a removable tray for collecting leaves and branches will already be built in here.

By the way, you can refuse vertical drain pipes at all! Today it is becoming fashionable to use chains instead of gutters, as in Japan. They are simply hooked onto the gutter and hang down. With the proper approach, such chains turn into a real decoration of the home and garden.

Chains are just a symbolic name. In fact, on Japanese gutters, such chains have a complex spatial shape with decorative bowls and other elements. If you like this design, then make sure that the chains are securely connected to the base and the groove, while being so tight that they do not move from side to side.

Step 5. Protection of the gutter

When the ebb is completely ready, you can additionally protect it with a special mesh from dirt and leaves:

Patience and adherence to technology - and the gutter system of your home will be professionally reliable!