Iron repair: disassembly, typical malfunctions and how to fix them. Five main reasons why a modern iron fails

Since then, when people took off their animal skins and began to put on woven clothes, the question arose of removing folds and wrinkles from things after washing. Things were pressed down with flat stones, ironed with pans with hot coals, and whatever housewives did not come up with, until June 6, 1882, the American inventor Henry Seeli patented the electric iron.

And only in 1903, the American entrepreneur Earl Richardson brought the invention to life by making the first electrically heated iron, which the seamstresses really liked.

The principle of operation and electrical circuit of the iron

Electrical circuit diagram

If you look at the electrical diagram of a Braun iron, you might think that this is a diagram of an electric heater or electric kettle. And this is not surprising, the electrical circuits of all the listed devices are not much different. The differences lie in the design of these household appliances due to their different purposes.

The supply voltage of 220 V is supplied through a flexible heat-resistant cord with a molded plug to the XP connector installed in the iron body. The PE terminal is grounding, does not take part in the work and serves to protect a person from electric shock in the event of an insulation breakdown on the case. The PE wire in the cord is usually yellow - green colors.

If the iron is connected to a network without a ground loop, then the PE wire is not used. The L (phase) and N (zero) terminals in the iron are equivalent, which terminal is zero or the phase does not matter.

From the L terminal, the current is supplied to the Temperature Regulator, and if its contacts are closed, then further to one of the TEN terminals. From the N terminal, the current flows through the thermal fuse to the second terminal of the heating element. In parallel to the terminals of the heating element, a neon lamp is connected through the resistor R, which glows when voltage is applied to the heating element and the iron heats up.

In order for the iron to start heating, it is necessary to apply the supply voltage to a tubular electric heater (TEN), pressed into the sole of the iron. For quick heating of the sole, heating elements of high power are used, from 1000 to 2200 W. If this power is constantly supplied, then in a few minutes the sole of the iron will be heated red-hot and it will be impossible to iron things without spoiling them. For ironing products made of nylon and anida, the temperature of the iron is 95-110 ° C, and that of linen is 210-230 ° C. Therefore, to set the required temperature when ironing things made of different fabrics, there is a temperature control unit.

The temperature control unit is controlled with a round knob located in the central part under the iron handle. Turning the knob clockwise will increase the heating temperature, while turning it counterclockwise, the heating temperature of the soleplate will be lower.

Rotation from the handle to the thermostat assembly is transmitted through an adapter in the form of a sleeve or a metal angle put on a threaded rod of the thermostat. The handle on the iron body is held by several latches. To remove the handle, it is enough to pry it over the edge with a little effort with a screwdriver blade.

The operation of the thermostat of the Philips iron and any other manufacturer is ensured by the installation of a bimetallic plate, which is a strip of two metals sintered together over the entire surface with different coefficients of linear expansion. As the temperature changes, each of the metals expands to a different extent, and as a result, the plate bends.

In the thermostat, the plate is connected to a bistable switch through a ceramic rod. The principle of its operation is based on the fact that, thanks to a flat curved spring, when passing through the equilibrium point, the contacts instantly open or close. The speed is necessary to reduce the burning of the contacts as a result of the formation of a spark when they open. The switching point of the switch can be changed by turning the knob on the iron body and thus control the heating temperature of the soleplate. When the thermostat switch is turned on and off, a characteristic low click is heard.

To increase the safety of operating the iron in case the thermostat breaks, for example, contacts are welded together, in modern models (there was no thermal fuse in Soviet irons), a FUt thermal fuse is installed, designed for a response temperature of 240 ° C. When this temperature is exceeded, the thermal fuse breaks the circuit and the voltage is no longer supplied to the heating element. In this case, in which position the temperature control knob is located does not matter.

There are three types of thermal fuse designs, as in the photo, and they all work on the principle of contact opening due to bending of the bimetallic plate as a result of heating. In the photo on the left, the thermal fuse of the Philips iron, on the bottom right - Braun. Typically, after the temperature of the sole has dropped below 240 ° C, the thermal fuse is restored. It turns out that the thermal fuse works like a thermostat, but maintains a temperature suitable for ironing only linen items.

To indicate the arrival of the supply voltage to the heating element, a neon lamp HL is connected in parallel to its terminals through a current-limiting resistor R. The indicator does not affect the operation of the iron, but it allows you to judge the performance. If the light is on, and the iron does not heat up, then the heating element winding is in the open or there is poor contact at the place where its terminals are connected to the circuit.

Wiring diagram

The entire electrical circuit of the iron is mounted on the opposite side of the soleplate, which is made of high-strength aluminum alloy. This photo shows the wiring diagram of a Philips electric iron. Wiring diagrams of irons from other manufacturers and models of irons differ slightly from those shown in the photo.

The supply voltage of 220 V is supplied from the power cord with the help of captive terminals put on pins 3 and 4. Pin 4 is connected to pin 5 and one of the terminals of the heating element. From pin 3, the supply voltage goes to the thermal fuse and then to the iron thermostat, and from it, via the bus, to the second terminal of the heating element. A neon lamp is connected between 1 and 5 pins through a current-limiting resistor. Pin 2 is a ground terminal and is riveted directly to the sole of the iron. All conductive buses of the circuit are made of iron, and in this case it is justified, since the heat generated in the buses goes to heating the iron.

DIY electric iron repair

Attention! Care should be taken when repairing an electric iron. Touching exposed parts of a circuit that is connected to the mains can result in electric shock. Do not forget to remove the plug from the socket!

Any home craftsman can do an independent repair of the iron, even if he has no experience in repairing household appliances. After all, there are few electrical parts in the iron, and you can check them with any indicator or multimeter. Iron is often more difficult to disassemble than to repair. Let's consider the technology of disassembly and repair using the example of two models Philips and Braun.

Irons stop working for one of the following reasons, listed by the frequency of cases: a break in the power cord, poor contact of the terminals at the point where the cord is connected to the wiring diagram, oxidation of the contacts in the thermostat, malfunction of the thermal fuse.

Checking the power cord is working

Since during ironing, the power cord is constantly bent and the greatest bend occurs at the point where the cord enters the iron body, at this point the wires in the cord are usually frayed. This malfunction begins to manifest itself when the iron is still heating up normally, but during ironing, the heating on indicator blinks, without being accompanied by the click of the thermostat switch.

If the insulation of the conductors in the cord is frayed, then a short circuit may occur with an external manifestation in the form of a flash of fire with a loud bang and the circuit breaker in the shield is turned off. In this case, you need to unplug the iron cord from the outlet and start repairing it yourself. A short circuit of wires in an iron cord is not dangerous for a person, but housewives are very impressive.

If the iron stops heating up, then first of all you need to check the presence of voltage in the outlet by connecting to it any other electrical device, such as a table lamp, or connect the iron to another outlet. Do not forget to turn the temperature control on the iron clockwise at least to the first circle on the scale before doing this. In the extreme left position of the thermostat knob, the iron can be turned off. If the socket is working properly, and the iron does not heat up, then with the plug of the cord inserted into the network, move it at the point of entry into the iron body, simultaneously pressing, while observing the on indicator. The same operation must be done in the area where the cord enters the power plug. If the indicator lights up even for a moment, it means that there is a wire break in the power cord and you will have to take the iron to a service workshop or repair it yourself.

Using a multimeter or pointer tester

If you have a multimeter or a pointer tester, the power cord can be checked without connecting to the network, which is safer by connecting the test leads of the device included in the resistance measurement mode to the pins of the power plug. A working iron should have a resistance of about 30 ohms. Even a slight change in the reading of the device when the cord moves will indicate the presence of a wire break in it.

If the power cord is frayed at the point of entry into the electrical plug, then you will not need to disassemble the iron, but it will be enough to replace the plug with a new one, cutting it off at the point of damage to the wire.

If the power cord is frayed at the entrance to the iron or the proposed method did not allow to determine the malfunction of the cord, then the iron will have to be disassembled. Dismantling the iron begins with removing the back cover. Difficulties may arise here due to the lack of a suitable bit for the head of self-tapping screws. For example, I don't have bits for a sprocket-like slot with a pin in the center, and I unscrew such self-tapping screws with a flat screwdriver with a suitable blade width. After removing the cover from the iron, all contacts necessary for finding a faulty part in the iron will become available. It will be possible, without further disassembling the iron, to check the integrity of the power cord, the serviceability of the heating element and the thermostat.

As you can see in the photo of the Philips iron, three wires come out of the power cord, which are connected with crimp terminals to the terminals of the iron, insulated in different colors. The color of the insulation is the marking of the wires.

Although there is no international standard yet, most European and Asian manufacturers of electrical appliances have adopted yellow-green mark the ground wire with the color of the insulation (which is usually denoted in Latin letters PE), brown- phase ( L), light blue- neutral wire ( N). The letter designation, as a rule, is applied to the body of the iron next to the corresponding terminal.

Insulated conductor yellow-green the color is grounding, serves for safety, and does not affect the operation of the iron. Leads are wires in brown and light blue isolation, so they need to be checked.

Using a table lamp

There are many ways to check the power cord of the iron, and it all depends on what tools the home craftsman has at hand. If you don't have any instruments at hand, then you can use the simplest method.

To do this, you first need to remove the caps of the cord from the terminals of the iron. The clip-on terminals on the contacts of the iron are usually held by latches and in order for them to be easily removed, it is necessary to squeeze the latch with a sharp object, as shown in the photo. At the same time, at the same time, it is necessary to inspect the contacts for oxidation or burning, and if any are present, clean the contacts from the bottom and top to a shine with fine sandpaper. If the terminals are put on without effort, then you need to tighten them using pliers. Step-by-step instructions for repairing terminal connections in the photographs are given in the article "Terminal contact restoration". After that, you need to put the terminals into place and check the operation of the iron by connecting it to the network. It is quite possible that this was the malfunction and the iron will work.

If the terminal connections are in order, then you need to remove the terminals attached to the brown and blue wires and connect them to the pins of the plug of any electrical appliance using insulating tape, a table lamp with an incandescent or LED lamp is best suited for this. The switch in the desk lamp must be in the on position. After that, plug the iron into the network and wrinkle the iron wire at the point where it enters the body and at the plug. If the table lamp shines steadily, it means that the iron wire is working properly and you will have to continue looking for a malfunction.

With phase indicator

Checking a tubular electric heater (TEN)

Heating elements fail in irons extremely rarely, and if the heating elements are faulty, then the iron has to be thrown away. To check the heating element, it is enough to remove only the back cover from it. Usually, the terminals of the heating element are connected to the extreme terminals and, as a rule, the terminals of the heating indicator are connected to the same terminals. Therefore, if the indicator is on, but there is no heating, then the reason for this may be a break in the coil of the heating element or poor contact at the welding points of the iron leads to the contact rods coming out of the heating element.

There are models of irons, such as the Braun model, shown in the photograph, in which the thermostat is included in the gap of one output of the heating element, and the thermal fuse in the gap of the other. In this case, if the thermal fuse is faulty, then an erroneous conclusion can be made about the heating element malfunction. The final conclusion about the condition of the heating element can be made only after the complete disassembly of the iron.

Checking the health of the iron thermostat

In order to get to the thermostat for checking, you need to disassemble the iron completely. The iron handle and the plastic part of the body are attached to its metal part with screws and latches. There are a huge number of models of irons, even from one manufacturer, and the methods of fastening in each of them are different, but there are general rules.

One attachment point is usually located in the area of ​​the iron spout and the plastic case is fixed with a self-tapping screw, as in this photo of the Philips iron. In this model, the self-tapping screw is located under the steam volume adjustment knob. To get to the head of the self-tapping screw, you need to turn the handle counterclockwise until it stops and pull it up. After removing the steam adjustment unit, the self-tapping screw can be unscrewed.

On the Braun model I had to repair, the screw was hidden under the decorative cap of the water nozzle. To unscrew the self-tapping screw, I had to remove the nozzle. It just fits snugly. By the way, so it can be removed for cleaning in case of clogging.

The second attachment point is usually located in the area where the power cord comes in. The plastic body of the iron can be fastened either with self-tapping screws or with latches. The Philips iron shown in the photo uses a threaded mounting method. Fastening with self-tapping screws from the point of view of the maintainability of the iron is preferable, since during disassembly the risk of damage to the fasteners of the plastic case is reduced.

And in the Braun iron model, the plastic part of the case with the handle is secured with two latches hooked onto the lugs. For disassembly, you need to disengage the latches by spreading them to the sides.

This work must be done carefully so as not to break the latches and lugs. The latches are disengaged and the body part with the handle can now be detached from the iron. It, in turn, is attached to the adapter cover with screws or flags.

In this photo of a Philips iron, the lid is secured to the soleplate with three self-tapping screws. Before unscrewing the screws, you need to remove the on indicator, which is held with the help of captive terminals on the iron terminals.

And on the Braun iron, the lid is fixed to the soleplate with four metal flags threaded through the slots and turned. To release the cover, you need to turn the flags with pliers so that they become along the slots. In this iron, two flags at the spout rusted completely, and I had to bend a special adapter from a steel strip and cut two threads in it for screw fastening.

After removing the cover, the thermostat assembly will become available for continuity and repair. First of all, you need to inspect the condition of the contacts. The Philips iron also has a thermal fuse in the thermostat assembly. In a cold state, the contacts must be closed.

If the appearance of the contacts does not arouse suspicion, then you need to ring them with a dial tester or multimeter included in the minimum resistance measurement mode. The photo on the left shows the circuit for the continuity of the contacts of the thermal fuse, and on the right - the thermostat. The multimeter should read zero. If the multimeter shows 1, and the pointer tester is infinity, then there is a malfunction in the contacts, they are oxidized and require cleaning.

The check of the contacts of the thermostat unit can also be checked using the indicator for finding the phase according to the method of checking the power cord described above, touching one and the other contacts in sequence. If the indicator shines when touching one contact, but not to the other, then the contacts are oxidized.

You can do without checking by immediately cleaning the contacts of the thermostat and thermal fuse with sandpaper. Then turn on the iron, it should work.

If there are no devices at hand for checking the contacts, then you can turn on the iron and use a screwdriver blade with a well-insulated plastic handle to short-circuit the contacts. If the indicator lights up and the iron starts to heat up, then the contacts are burnt. Do not forget about extreme caution.

To clean the contacts, you need to put a narrow strip of fine sandpaper between the contacts and stretch it a dozen times. Then turn the strip 180 ° and clean the second contact of the contact pair. It is useful to clean the thermostat contacts to extend the life of the iron if, for example, during the repair of the steam supply system, the iron had to be disassembled.

Examples of self-repairing irons

Recently, two defective irons from Braun and Philips had to be repaired. I will describe the faults that had to be eliminated.

Braun Electric Iron Repair

The iron did not heat up, the indicator did not light at any position of the thermostat adjustment knob. When bending the power cord, the iron did not show signs of operation.

After removing the rear cover, it was found that the supply voltage is supplied through the terminal block. Access to the plug-in terminals was difficult. Wire marking was in accordance with generally accepted color coding. The iron had already been repaired earlier, as evidenced by the broken off left latch on the terminal block.

The external view of the removed terminal block is shown in the photo. It also has a neon lamp to indicate the supply voltage to the heating element.

The power supply input terminal rails were covered in places with an oxide film of rust. This could not cause the iron to break down, which was confirmed by connecting it after removing traces of rust from the contacts with sandpaper.

After completely disassembling the iron, the thermal fuse and the thermostat contacts were ringed using a multimeter. The thermal fuse shows a resistance of zero ohms, and the thermostat contacts - infinity.

Inspection showed that the contacts were tightly adjacent to each other, and it became obvious that the reason for the failure lies in the oxidation of their surfaces. After cleaning the contacts with sandpaper, the contact was restored. The iron began to heat up normally.

Philips electric iron repair

I got my Philips iron for repair after the owner cleaned the steam system. The thermostat was not working and the iron was heating up to the thermal cutout temperature.

After completely disassembling the iron, it was found that the ceramic pusher, which should be located between the bimetallic plate and the thermostat switch, is missing. As a result, the bimetallic plate was bent, but its movement was not transmitted to the switch, so the contacts were constantly closed.

The old iron, from which the pusher could be removed, was not at hand, there was no opportunity to buy a new one, and I had to think about what to make it from. But before making a pusher with your own hands, it was required to determine its length. The bimetallic plate and the switch had coaxial holes with a diameter of 2 mm, in which the standard pusher was previously fixed. To determine the length of the pusher, it was necessary to take an M2 screw and two nuts. To fix the screw, instead of the pusher, it was necessary to raise the thermostat by unscrewing one self-tapping screw.

Attention! The bimetallic plate comes into contact with the soleplate of the iron and has good electrical contact with it. The switch plate is connected to the electrical network. The screw is metal and is a good conductor of electric current. Therefore, touching the soleplate of the iron when carrying out the described adjustment should only be carried out with the iron plug removed from the socket!

The screw was inserted into the hole of the bimetallic plate from below, as in the photo, and secured with a nut. Owing to the possibility of clockwise or counterclockwise rotation of the second nut, it became possible to adjust the height of the pusher simulator in order to adjust the thermostat to maintain the set temperature control knob.

The length of the pusher at which the heating temperature of the iron corresponds to the set position of the adjustment knob can be selected by doing test ironing. But for this you will have to assemble and disassemble the iron every time. It is much easier to use an electronic thermometer. Many multimeters have an external thermocouple temperature measurement function.

To measure the temperature of the sole, you need to put the handle on the thermostat and set it to the position marked with one, two or three circles opposite the pointer on the iron body. Next, fix the thermocouple on the soleplate of the iron, fix the soleplate in an upright position and turn on the iron. When the temperature of the sole stops changing, take a reading.

As a result of the experiment, it was determined that a pusher with a length of about 8 mm was required. Since the iron inside the body can be heated to a temperature of 240 ° C, the pusher had to be made of a heat-resistant material. A resistor caught my eye and I remembered that in it a resistive layer is applied to a ceramic tube. The 0.25 W resistor is just the right size, and its shortened copper leads threaded through the holes will serve well as clamps.

The resistor will fit any value. Before installing in the iron, the resistor was heated to red on the gas column burner and the burnt paint layer and resistor spraying were removed using sandpaper. Everything has been removed down to the ceramics. If you use a resistor with a nominal value of more than 1 megohm, of which you need to be 100% sure, then you can not remove the paint and the resistive layer.

After preparation, the resistor was installed instead of the ceramic spacer and the ends of the bends were slightly bent to the sides. The iron was assembled and the thermostat was re-checked, which confirmed that the temperature was maintained by the thermostat within the data given in the table.

What is the maximum temperature that my Philips iron can reach?

When calibrating the thermostat, I decided at the same time to find out what the maximum temperature an electric iron can heat up.

For this, the leads of the thermostat and thermal fuse were short-circuited. As you can see in the photo, the device showed 328 ° С. When the sole was heated to this temperature, the iron had to be turned off for fear that its plastic part could be damaged.

I love puzzles ... especially unexpected ones. Here is such an unexpected puzzle "fell on my head" today. More precisely, it fell not on my head, but on my shirt, and did not fall - but fell off.

An iron fell apart in my hands, while ironing a shirt…. just like that, the sole took and fell off (it remained hanging on the wires). The case turned out to be one screw that had been unscrewed (the flimsy fastening of the iron soleplate aroused my suspicions from the very beginning), which fastened the sole to the "nose" of the iron.

To screw this screw into place, it was necessary to disassemble the entire iron, which was a puzzle. A quick "google" did not bring a solution and had to "storm" the iron ... So I decided to combine the solution of the puzzle with a photo session. Maybe someone will be useful, although the model of the iron is not known…. but still..

This is how my iron looked at the very beginning, a fallen off potash and an assembled top of the iron:

The heel of the sole is fastened without screws, with some kind of anchor grips)) Ie. the reliability of the design rests on the very screw on the iron spout.

Note that I took the photographs after disassembling the iron ... therefore, further there will be a "reconstruction of events".

So welcome - the iron itself:

Disassembly should begin with a dastardly hidden screw under the lid of the water tank:

But you need to remove the cover from the closed state, hook it with a screwdriver and lift it up.

Unscrew the first screw:

We take out the "horned bullshit" from the end of the handle and take out the rotary control. To do this, unscrew it counterclockwise until it stops, and then pull it up.

We screw in this screw, this is the second hidden screw. I found it only when I was assembling the iron ... I broke it or it was broken before me (the iron is not mine) will remain a mystery !!! In my case, there is an option to buy super-glue or find dichloroethane and glue the plastic:

The next 2 screws are hidden under the cover of the temperature controller. It will have to be brutally ripped out with a screwdriver. (in my case it was easier, I pushed it out from the inside, because the sole had not yet been screwed on)

Unscrew the screws here and near the heel of the sole... There will be 4 more screws: two large and two smaller ...

We remove the part:

Mesh filters at the bottom of the cylinders ...

You also need to watch out and not rip (as I did) the tube leading to the spray on the iron spout:

EVERYTHING, I finally got access to the ill-fated screw on the toe of the sole. It can be screwed on and iron assembled. But I recommend checking the integrity and tightness of all contacts. And in general, to carry out maintenance of the iron, the races have already been dismantled….

When assembling, do not forget to put in place various little things, so that there are no "extra parts" left after the repair:

two crap I almost forgot to put it back on. These are some kind of gaskets ...

All, I tighten the ill-fated screw:

And I start assembling ... in the reverse order to disassembly ....

The only thing I will note is that in order to properly assemble the temperature regulator, I unscrewed it all the way clockwise and accordingly knew in which position it was necessary to put on the regulator cover itself ... this was the position of the maximum temperature:

Look like that's it…. do not forget about the screws and do not get nervous during assembly and disassembly))))

This entry was posted on October 5, 2008 at 13:47 and is filed under with tags. You can follow any responses to this entry through the feed. You can, or from your own site.

Previously, the portal VashTechnik dismantled the Saturn electric kettle - I did not like it. However, the opinion of the iron is different. Also assembled Guangdong; 15 seconds after switching on, you cannot touch. The ceramic sole is equipped with 19 steam outlet holes around the perimeter, it really (corresponds to the assurances of the reviews) is excellently scratched. What to expect from a device that costs 200-300 rubles? There is a spray function. Steam operation is only possible at high sole temperatures. There are many photos below, see, admire. We decided to consider repairing the iron with our own hands, guided by the obvious reason: the Runet network is devoid of a worthwhile description of the process. Common phrases, pictures that do not shine with clarity. Today the plan is to repair the irons on their own.

Saturn Iron From China

Saturn is believed to be the patron saint of Saturday. Any undertakings go very badly, they turn out to be ugly, ugly. Saturn is a success in appearance, the self-cleaning function does not work well. Looking ahead, let's say: from the inside from the tank to the heating chamber there is a hole covered by a three-way nipple. The self-cleaning function corresponds to the upper position, the liquid flow is maximum. Practically inoperative. Here is a guide to the procedure:

Water, steam from the holes refused to pour, after disassembly it turned out: 6 out of 19 fake holes. No other word comes to mind. Made in the same style, the boiler area overlaps only the front 13. The photo of the sole is attached, you can see what you need.

The task was to understand why the self-cleaning mode does not work. Whether it is a malfunction. We are starting to disassemble the iron!

Saturn ST disassembly iron - CC0211

Let's start with the rear wall screw, which is not covered by anything. Difficulties will begin further. Knowing a lot about disassembling the irons, they guessed: they were still hidden by an unknown place of fastening. The screws are located under the buttons, the water inlet cover, the power regulator. In this case, the first one turned out to be the correct option. It was possible to find out by breaking one button. It can be clearly seen in the photo: each key has a pair of teeth sliding in the holes of the case, at the same time serving as limiters. It is enough to pry on the back tooth with a screwdriver, removing the button, if you don’t know in advance ... As if the plastic keys were molded brittle on purpose, there are varieties that are more elastic. We believe intentionally; trying to prevent unskilled intervention. As a result, one button (steam blow) became unusable, we will glue it with Titan, readers will have to predict the final alignment of affairs.

Rear screw

So, having removed two buttons, we find another screw, it is supposed to unscrew. Difficulties are not over, the handle and rear wall panel is additionally fastened with three spikes (see photo) on the spout. We cannot tell you how to properly disassemble! Finally, the cover is dismantled. Then it is simple:

• The tank with pumps and steam regulator is held in place by three screws. One in the bow, two in the tail. Gently remove the soleplate temperature controller by pulling it out. Held by three pins, in a D-groove. Notice the small steel brace that secures the regulator and clicks when shifting (see photo).
• The tank is pulled together, at the same time the steam shock pump path is opened. A metal tube runs through the structure, from the boiler to the pumps.

Saturn ST Iron Tank & Pumps - CC0211

Tank, pumps of the Saturn ST - CC0211 steam iron I wanted to look at in more detail. First, look at the steam ring. Responsible for the height of the bronze rod, ending with a nipple. Through it, the water reaches the sealed soleplate tank, turning into steam. The ring is plastic, in vain. During operation, the part will begin to wear out. Consequently, the tank will gradually start to poison the water. Note:

• There is no protection against water leakage from the assembly (pump, nipple stem) into the back of the handle that goes to the electrical part.

In the iron there is grounding, the wire is screwed to the aluminum part of the sole, molded in one piece with the tank. Here comes the power supply of the heating element rolled inside. Connected by terminals, not protected against moisture ingress. Therefore, if you forget to ground the iron, moisture will get into the electrical part, possibly fatal to the user of the iron. Connect the device correctly to avoid unpleasant consequences.

Each pump is equipped with a piston, it is possible to remove it parallel to the return spring. The sprinkler pump does not differ from the steam boost pump. You need to press both sharply, otherwise, instead of a trickle in the direction directly along the course, you get streaks that fall on the clothes. The sprinkler pump is connected to the spout nozzle, the steam shock pump is connected to a vertical steel tube that goes into the sealed container of the iron soleplate.

Saturn ST Electric Iron - CC0211

The indicator light is on in parallel with the heating element. A thermostat with a regulator is separated from the supply voltage. When the soleplate temperature knob rotates, the screw deflects the elastic plate up and down. The contact secured here is located above a bimetallic plate screwed to the sealed sole tank. By fine adjusting the screw position, the correct temperature is achieved. The degree of bending of a bimetallic plate is determined by heating. The relay switches with a slight click, we suppose (not tested), there may be small magnets that slightly delay the operation, making the stroke more abrupt. It is often done in a similar principle of operation of the start-up protection relays of refrigerators.

Notice the bag is visible next to the temperature control. There is a thermal fuse inside, screwed by a bracket to the sealed reservoir of the sole. The element of the electrical circuit is not soldered, seated on the clamping terminal, like a heater, is considered a major drawback of the device. By accidentally hooking a part, it is easy to disrupt the operation of the device as a whole.

Conclusions on the repair of the Saturn ST iron - CC0211

From what has been said, we conclude: the inoperability of the self-cleaning system was the result of poor design thought. Checking has established: the nipple moves correctly, in the extreme position of the steam adjustment lever it reaches the upper position. Hence, the problem is caused by two reasons:

1. Bottom hole of the outlet of the sealed tank of the soleplate of the iron.
2. Poor nipple setting.

We just decided to avoid touching the device, leave it as it is for the following reasons:

1. The iron perfectly works out the modes, excluding self-cleaning.
2. The self-cleaning function can be replaced by boiling the soles of the device with a vinegar solution, no less effective (more likely - more).

Since the device works for 300 rubles, it makes no sense to wish for more. The frequency of self-cleaning is not indicated, we consider the repair of the iron with our own hands complete. We will fix the key when the glue appears. Readers will be pleasantly surprised by the detailed disclosed iron device.

Most devices are designed according to the diagram. The review will help you to repair Tefal irons, repair Roventa irons, repair irons with a steam generator, and other current work. From the note, the main types of malfunctions are clear, how to eliminate:

1. The indicator does not light up. An open in the power supply circuit or a blown thermal fuse.
2. The alarm does not turn off, although the iron heats up for a long time. Temperature controller relay defective.
3. Water drips from the iron. The tightness of one of the pumps is broken. It is urgent to turn off the device and master the repair of steam irons.
4. No steam. Defective nipple, regulator wheel, or clogged water or evaporation tanks.
5. The iron does not heat. If the power indicator is on, the heating element has burned out. Unambiguous conclusion, because the lamp is connected in parallel.
6. No spray jet. The nozzle orifice is clogged, or the left pump is not properly sealed.
7. No steam boost, steam generation works. Sealing of the right pump is broken.

We believe that now the repair of the Tefal iron that has appeared on the horizon will not make readers faint. From what you read it is clear: the most important steps are assembly and disassembly of the iron. The repair is simple. As proof, we place a large photo of the junction of the right pump and the steam hose. Try to collect at your leisure!

The principle of operation and the internal structure of the iron, at first glance, do not raise any special questions: the electric current leads to the heating of the nichrome spiral, which, in turn, transfers heat to a massive metal plate - the sole. But how do you adjust the heating temperature, steam or spray water? Modern iron models can be equipped with a variety of scale prevention systems, electronic components and controls, the presence of which significantly complicates the design.

It is quite difficult to figure out the device of a modern iron on your own, but possession of such information can help in eliminating minor malfunctions. Given the high complexity of the iron design, for serious repairs (replacing the spiral or electronic components, cleaning the pumps supplying water, restoring the electrical wire), it is recommended to contact specialized workshops, since the operability of the device after unauthorized intervention is not guaranteed.

Such a familiar household appliance as an iron is a rather complicated device from a technical point of view. The iron circuit includes several dozen elements, the main ones of which are a heating element, a thermostat, an overheating protection system, as well as a variety of regulators, indicators and other electronic components, without which it is impossible to imagine the normal operation of a modern iron.

How does a modern iron work, many models of which can be seen on store shelves today? First of all, the following components should be distinguished in its structure:

• electrical wire;
• steam supply system;
• chamber for water and steam generators;
• sole;
• thermostat.

Considering each of the elements separately, special attention should be paid to the internal structure and the principle of operation of parts, since such information makes it possible to determine the cause of breakdowns and ways to eliminate them.

Electrical wire

Although at first glance, a wire for an iron is no different from a similar element of other household appliances, some peculiarities can be traced in its appearance and internal structure: first of all, the wire has a fabric braid, which prevents the polymer shell from rubbing during ironing.

It is difficult to imagine any other device that is subjected to the same heavy loads as an iron, because when using it, you have to twist the cable several times in different directions, stretch it, bend it at inconceivable angles, and even inadvertently fold it into a knot.

An ordinary cord would not be able to withstand such manipulations for long, while an iron wire does an excellent job with its duties for several years or even decades.

The secret lies precisely in the fabric braid: it several times reduces the coefficient of friction between different sections of the cable, and also increases its rigidity. As an additional element, giving maximum reliability to the system, a plastic stopper is used, which is located near the base of the iron and is designed to prevent possible kinks of the wire.

The inner part of the iron wire is represented by three cores, one of which is used as a ground. This safety measure makes it possible to reduce the risk of electric shock in the event of a short circuit and to extend the life of the device.

Steam supply system

Most modern models of irons are equipped with two buttons located in the front of the device: one of them is responsible for supplying steam, and the other makes it possible, if necessary, to moisten the fabric by spraying water through a special hole located on the iron spout. The transformation of water into steam takes place in a separate chamber, which is equipped with powerful heating elements. After pressing the button, the liquid under pressure enters the chamber, where it instantly heats up, and is distributed through the perforations on the sole of the iron.

The use of untreated tap water often leads to excessive formation of carbonate deposits on the surface of the heaters, which naturally entails a decrease in heating efficiency and the failure of heating elements. The appearance of traces of rust, dirt or limescale fragments on the fabric during ironing is an alarm signal that it is time to pay extra attention to cleaning the iron.

Outsole and heater system

The sole, as the main component of the iron, largely determines not only the quality of ironing, but also the overall level of comfort when using the device. Manufacturers of modern irons equip them with Teflon, ceramic or even sapphire soles - this technical solution allows to reduce the coefficient of friction between the sole and the fabric, thereby making ironing easier. Inexpensive models of irons are equipped with an aluminum sole, the main disadvantage of which is considered to be the excessive pliability of the metal, which often leads to noticeable scratches.

Inside the sole there is a heating element - a nichrome spiral, complemented by ceramic rings that evenly distribute heat and help keep it for a long time. The heating temperature is set by a separate thermostat, the main function of which is to timely turn off the power supply in accordance with the specified mode.

Thermostat and heating cut-off system

Using the iron on various types of fabrics requires careful selection of the appropriate temperature regime.

In most cases, ironing requirements are indicated by clothing manufacturers on a separate label that is sewn into the folds of the product.

Heating is adjusted by setting the iron rotary wheel to the required position, corresponding to the permissible ironing parameters. When the temperature reaches its maximum value, the contact opens, as a result of which the voltage supply is interrupted.

How is the regulator disconnected? Electric circuits of irons assume the presence of a special element - a bimetallic plate, which consists of two parts made of metals with different coefficients of thermal expansion. When heated, the metal deforms, and differences in the properties of the component parts of the plate lead to slight deformation, as a result of which the plate is pulled up and stops contacting the electrical circuit. A similar principle of operation is used not only in irons, but also in kettles, relays for disconnecting boilers and other heating elements.

How does an iron with a steam generator work?

There are two types of iron with a steam generator, at least significant. The first is a device with a built-in reservoir and a steam generation system. The second is models with a free-standing tank. It contains not only a container with a liquid, but also heaters and a steam flow control system. The reservoir is connected to the iron with steam pipes.

Steam generator design

The steam generator is a rather dangerous device. The risk of emergencies is unacceptable for a household appliance. Therefore, in the design of the generator, a whole a range of safety devices... The unit, built-in or housed in a free-standing tank, consists of the following parts:

• liquid tank;
• section of heaters;
• thermostat to control the heating process;
• electrical fuse;
• steam supply mode switch, working pressure setting;
• emergency valve cover;
• steam release valve.

In inexpensive models, everything works quite simply. In order to ensure an even supply of steam with constant energy consumption by the heaters, the steam generator unit is equipped with a dispenser. It works in tandem with a thermostat, supplying water as its volume is depleted during evaporation and stopping this process when the temperature drops.

In expensive irons with a steam generator, an emergency stop system in the form of a safety valve supplemented with manometers... In this version, the unit not only supplies steam with a constant flow more stable, but also provides greater safety.

Varieties of generators based on the principle of using liquid

There are two types of steam stations. A simple option is gravity... Here, the liquid is fed directly into the heating zone. When it evaporates intensively, steam is formed, which is thrown out through the holes in the sole.

Advanced Design - Generators pump-action type. They heat the liquid in a separate tank, where it is supplied by a dispenser. The vapor generated during evaporation is discharged by a pump. This ensures not only a stable flow rate, but also a controlled high jet pressure.

Depending on the design, steam irons are designed for different purposes. Gravity models are not able to provide a high, controlled quality of the final ironing result. But their price tag and general characteristics are attractive to housewives dealing with a small amount of linen. When you need an ideal, consistently good ironing result for large volumes of things, you simply cannot do without a more expensive pump model.

Professional iron with pump-type steam generator

General procedure for getting started with the iron

The specific algorithm for handling the steam generator is always described in the instructions for the model. It is worth remembering that there is a danger of using this device, which simultaneously operates with high temperature and pressure. Therefore, the manufacturer's recommendations should not be ignored. The general algorithm of actions looks like this:

• unscrew the cover with the built-in emergency valve;
• pour water into the tank;
• plug the steam generator into a power outlet;
• press the heating start button.

The iron is not immediately ready for use. The heating time of the first portion of water to 160 degrees may differ. In simple models, it is 2 - 2.5 minutes. The device is then ready for use.

Working pressure in the steam supply system is about 0.35 atm (value for conventional steam generators). During heating and operation of the device, the safety structure is constantly in place. It is represented by several components. There is an integrated overheating protection in each heating element... In the event of a heater breakdown or short circuit, an electrical fuse is triggered.

Boiler safety systems

A bimetallic thermostat is responsible for the temperature regime.... Its contact plate changes configuration when heated, making and breaking the circuit. If none of the above measures works, steam is released through the safety valve in the lid. This is a potentially hazardous phenomenon, but helps to prevent another high risk of pressure bursting of the housing and the release of huge amounts of superheated fluid over a large area.

Iron function operation

All irons have a basic set of functions. This is not to say that all devices are the same. Some models can perform more operations, others are limited only to the basic list.

Automatic shutdown

An iron with a steam generator has heaters and a water treatment zone, a pressure vessel. Therefore, in order to ensure fire safety, an automatic shutdown system is built into all models. It is built on the simplest gyroscope. The iron switches off:

• after 30 seconds of being on a horizontal surface without moving;
• after 10 minutes of inactivity in an upright position.

The iron will turn itself off when idle on a horizontal surface

The thermostat performs two functions at once. This is one of the parts of the iron's overall safety system, and at the same time the main function. The thermostat sets the heating level of the sole... The unit works simply: upon reaching the set temperature, it breaks the voltage supply circuit to the heating elements, and when it decreases, it closes again.

Liquid and steam supply

The simplest irons can only supply steam. More complex functions have two. At the push of one button, a stream of steam is delivered. On the second - the iron starts spray hot water through the spout for handling heavily wrinkled fabric.

More complex models have steam boost. This is an extremely intense jet. At this time, the device quickly consumes water from the heating zone. Depending on the capacity of the latter and the power of the heaters, the duration of operation in the steam boost mode may be more or less.

Steam and water spray buttons

Anti-drip system

It should be understood that during the pauses in the supply of steam, the liquid remains inside the nozzles on the sole. While the iron is in use, the amount is low. But if you turn it off, the whole liquid condenses... And on the next ironing, drops of water can fly out when steam is supplied.

The anti-drip system serves two purposes:

• blocks the outflow of water from a container - a tank;
• provides blocking of the exit of the heating zone after turning off the iron.

The models with the anti-drip system use a shortened steam path from the generation zone to the holes in the sole. All with one goal: to minimize water build-up in the absence of heating.

Anti-drip system helps prevent water leakage from the holes in the sole

Vertical steaming

The vertical steaming irons have distinctive design features. This is the position of the heating elements, and the location of the heating zone, and the length of the steam path before ejection from the sole. The flow is less than in impact mode. But more intense than normal work.

With vertical steaming comfortable to iron delicate fabric... Indeed, in this mode, the iron may not touch its surface. You can also iron things that cannot or are difficult to remove. For example, blackout curtains.

Typical iron malfunctions and solutions

Iron breakdowns are mainly associated with improper operation, sudden voltage surges or insufficient tightness of the water compartment, from which moisture seeps onto the electronic components of the device. Determining the cause of a malfunction, given the significant complexity of the design of modern irons, can be difficult, but there are a number of typical signs that reduce the search circle:

How to extend the life of your iron?

In order for the iron to serve you as long as possible and not cause problems with its work, you should follow a few simple tips:

The main principle of operation of the irons is the uniform heating of the metal sole and the distribution of water vapor in the thickness of the fabric. By observing simple precautions, you can not only significantly extend the life of the equipment, but also avoid most common breakdowns.

Imagine a situation when your favorite iron, produced by a Russian company, stopped working. The question immediately arises of how to disassemble the Vitek iron in order to repair it. If you have the necessary tool at hand, then in most cases you can restore the operation of the device with your own hands.

Reliable home appliances produced under the Vitek brand are deservedly popular among Russians. However, any device can fail. Therefore, the topic of disassembling and repairing various household appliances, including irons, is quite relevant.

How does the iron work

In order to disassemble and repair an electric iron, you need to know how it works and how it works. Without this knowledge, it is useless to start repair work. Almost all steam irons from different manufacturers - Philips, Braun, Tefal, Vitek and others - have the same device and principle of operation. Differences can only be in the technical design of individual parts.

The main detail in any electric iron is a sole with a tubular electric heater built into it (hereinafter also referred to as a heating element). The power of the heating element in modern models of Vitek irons is usually 2000W, 2200W or 2400W. The devices are produced with soles made of different materials - stainless steel, aluminum, Teflon, ceramics and others. The soles have holes through which steam is released to ensure the desired ironing quality. The heating temperature of the metal base is regulated by a built-in thermostat.

In devices with a vaporization function, a reservoir is provided into which water is poured. The liquid must be cleaned and softened - this is the only way to prevent the formation of scale inside the sole. Water enters from the reservoir onto a heated soleplate, is converted into steam and exits through the holes. The intensity of vaporization is also adjustable. Most modern models have the function of forced exit of a steam cloud with maximum intensity - steam boost.

Typically, electric irons have water spray nozzles. The electrical connection is provided by an electrical cord that can move freely relative to the housing. Inside the case, the cord is attached to the terminal block. Thus, the construction of modern steam irons is not complicated. Even those who are far from technology can understand it.

Common breakdowns

Due to the simplicity of the device and operation, the list of common malfunctions in various models of Vitek irons - VT-1201, VT-1209, VT-1244 and others - is the same. This statement is also true for devices of other brands, since they have no fundamental design differences. A description of the main breakdowns is given in the table below.

Illustration	Breakdown description
	Open or short circuit in the power cord... One of the most common and dangerous defects that occurs as a result of long-term operation. Over time, the cord is subjected to stress, the wires located under the outer insulation are bent and twisted. Thermal insulation can also be damaged, leading to the risk of melting the insulation of electrical conductors. Such malfunctions can result in electric shock. Breakage is eliminated by replacing the cord
	Scale build-up... This is more likely not a breakdown, but the result of improper operation, leading to a violation of the vaporization function. Salts contained in hard water precipitate on the steam-conducting holes of the sole. To avoid this defect, pour only purified softened water or distillate into the iron. To remove scale, the holes are cleaned with a cotton swab or any other object, the hardness of which should not exceed the hardness of the sole material.
	Damage to the thermostat... This part allows you to adjust the heating temperature of the sole. The bimetal plate maintains a predetermined temperature by connecting or disconnecting electrical contacts, depending on the temperature. Over time, contamination or the ingress of fibers in the fabric may disrupt contact. As a result, the heating element will not heat the sole. To fix the breakage, you will have to disassemble the iron and clean the contacts with fine sandpaper or any sharp metal object
	Thermal fuse tripped... This part is a fire protection device. The thermofus opens the electrical circuit and turns off the electric iron if the heating temperature of the sole exceeds the permissible one. Various models have both disposable and reusable safety devices. When diagnosing, the serviceability of the fuse is determined by a multimeter. The resistance of the working device is zero. If the thermal fuse is defective, the multimeter will show an open circuit. Breakage is eliminated by replacing the part
	Breakdown of heating element... This breakdown is common and leads to a complete loss of ironing performance. The outsole just doesn't get warm. In modern models, the heating element forms a single structure with the sole and cannot be replaced separately. A multimeter is used to check the health of the heater (see fig.). A normally operating heating element has a resistance ranging from 20 to 40 ohms. If the multimeter shows an open circuit, you will have to buy a new iron, since the cost of replacing the sole is commensurate with the price of a new device

This video introduces readers to typical irons malfunctions, the procedure for diagnosing and eliminating them:

Preparatory stage

In order to disassemble, diagnose, repair and assemble the Vitek iron, you must have the appropriate tool. As the readers have guessed, diagnostics are performed using a multimeter. Without this device, it is rarely possible to find and localize a breakdown. In addition, a soldering iron may be required for repair work.

In order to disassemble the iron, you should know that the back cover can be tightened with a screw with an original head that has a star-shaped slot with three beams (see figure). These are the screws used in many Vitek models.

With a certain skill, it can, of course, be unscrewed. If it doesn't work, you can make a snap - take a flat screwdriver of a suitable size and cut a small depression in the middle.

In general, the following tools and materials may be needed for disassembly and repair:

• a set of flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
• platypuses;
• thin flat scapula;

See also if you have materials like this:

• heat-shrink tubing;
• insulating tape;
• zero size sandpaper.

They can also come in handy when repairing your iron.

Disassembly process

The work must be done in stages, adhering to a certain sequence. The following describes the disassembly procedure for the Vitek VT-1259.

For other models of electric irons of the Russian manufacturer, disassembly is carried out in a similar way. There may be differences, but they are not fundamental. A description of the actions is given in the table.

Illustration	Work description
	Using a screwdriver with a curly tip (see photo above), unscrew the bolt holding the back cover, then remove it
	To unscrew the bolt shown in the photo, you will have to carefully pry off the buttons located on the handle with a knife or flat spatula and remove them. Be careful not to damage the latches. Next, you need a Phillips screwdriver
	In order to remove the upper part of the handle, pry the latches along the seam with a knife or spatula and flip them off. Then unscrew the two bolts shown in the photo.
	You will find another bolt below, next to the two that you just removed.
	Unscrew all the bolts shown in the photo at the back of the electric iron. The two unmarked screws holding the power cord must not be removed. Otherwise, the cord will fall off and interfere with operation.
	Unscrew three more bolts in the bow
	Raise the body, separating it from the sole. To get to the parts located inside, unscrew the three bolts shown in the photo.
	That's all, the iron is completely disassembled. Now you can find out the cause of the malfunction and repair the device. Assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

In conclusion, you can add only one thing: most users can handle the disassembly of a Vitek iron of any model on their own. But repairs may require certain qualifications.

Video

To learn more about the procedure for disassembling Vitek irons, models VT-1207, VT-1229, VT-12125, see the video:

Electronic engineer with many years of experience. For several years he was involved in organizing the repair of household appliances, including washing machines. Loves sport fishing, boating and travel.

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