Mortars and mixtures for tiles - types, compositions, mixing rules and the best manufacturers. Preparation of mortar for laying ceramic tiles How to lay tiles on the mortar

This "aged" technology of laying tiles on the floor has several advantages. There is no need for fine preparation of the floor covering for laying tiles with special leveling of the surface. It is enough to keep the general horizontal. In addition, expensive adhesive mixtures are not used here, and cement mortar is used to lay tiles on the floor. This method of laying tiles is best suited for relatively large
secondary premises where it is not required to withstand design solutions, and it is not necessary to seal tile joints with colored compounds.
In this technology, both pure cement and its mixture with sand in a one-to-one ratio can be used. In any case, before starting work, the cement mixture must be sieved through a fine sieve.

Before the mass laying of tiles on the floor, beacons are placed. They are placed in the center at the corners of the room, and if the room is large, then along the walls and along the center lines. The lighthouse is actually the same tile, only laid on a gypsum mortar so that it can be easily removed later. The first beacon sets the overall level of the floor, so it must be placed especially carefully in the highest place. Further, using the level, the remaining beacons are set, strictly in a horizontal plane with the starting point (beacon).

The concrete base is filled with water, and covered with a sand-cement mixture. A liquid solution is formed on the floor, in which the tiles will be laid. The sufficient thickness of the layer of the resulting mortar is at least 3 mm, and in case of irregularities, the cement-sand mixture can be added up to 30 mm. The tile itself is not lubricated with mortar before laying on the floor.

The tile is laid in a row between the beacons, while it is pressed into the solution, and its position is controlled by the rule and the level. After that, the beacons in the row are removed, and mortar tiles are laid in their place. The squeezed solution is immediately removed and used elsewhere.

The laid tiles are allowed to fix for at least one day. After that, to fill the tile joints, a liquid solution is poured onto the floor, which fills these joints.

After 2 - 3 days, the remaining cement from the tile is wiped off with a rag moistened with a 3% hydrochloric acid solution, which is washed off with water after a few minutes.

Of course, this technology does not correspond to modern ideas about laying tiles on the floor. The strength, durability, and water resistance of such a tiled flooring is in doubt. But the technology of laying tiles on a cement-sand mortar immediately over large areas has its advantages - low cost and high speed of work.

The operation of the floor can begin no earlier than 7 days after laying the tiles.

Tiles can be used on all types of floors and surfaces. Reliability, practicality, beauty are provided by the skill and skill of a specialist and the strength of the material.

Finishing the floor in the kitchen, in the corridor, in the bathroom is made with this material. He is not afraid of moisture, has strength and resistance to damage, impact. Originality of drawings gives perfection to an interior.

Laying tiles

Classic tiling option;
Ready-made compositions for styling;
The reason why you can not lay tiles on cement mortar.

1) The classic solution, but which the tiles are laid, is cement with the addition of a sand mixture.

2) The compositions are ready-made, more expensive in cost, but the quality of adhesion is better, there will be no shedding of the mixture and no cracks will form. Mastic solutions can be found in the store in plastic buckets or the composition has a dry substance.

The solution is prepared according to the instructions. Modifying and plasticizing additives are needed to increase adhesion.

3) The cement composition is used to level the base of the surface, seal cracks and cracks to get a perfectly even and smooth surface.

The cement composition levels the floor, but it gives thickness to the layer, the tile will lie on a dense base, and itself is a solid structure.

There will be a rise and strong pressure on the tile. When walking on a tiled surface, the cement layer will bulge and create gaps. The result may be tile peeling due to poor adhesion. Be sure to use a suitable solution, add glue for better adhesion of substances.

Compositions on which tiles are attached to the floor

Solutions with synthetic resins, latex resins;
Dry mixes;
Adding PVA glue.

1) Porcelain stoneware has a smooth surface and poor adhesion. Synthetic resins are added to the adhesive mixture, which increase plasticity, increase the adhesion property of materials. Latex resin will ensure reliability in operation.

It is added to the finished solution. Savings should be, but if the quality of laying suffers, it is better to use the right tools.

If the base is made of cement, then a larger volume of mortar should be used than with a concrete field. Unglazed tiles are more expensive, the adhesion is worse, more adhesive mixture is required. Glazed composition is more economical.

2) Dry mixes are made from a special composition using the right substances. Great variety for species, surfaces and conditions.

Basic products for even surface planes, reinforced for larger tiles. Specific compositions for non-traditional floor bases: metal, glass.

3) The solution will be very strong if PVA glue is added to it. For 10 liters of the mixture, 200 grams of glue are used. Instead of glue, soap is added in a liquid state, washing powder diluted in water. Slaked lime increases water resistance and elasticity. Primer EC-30 will enhance hardening in cold weather.

Preparing the mixture

The mixture is prepared according to the instructions;
The process of laying tiles on the base.

1) The mixture is prepared according to the instructions. It is printed on the packaging. Water is not added to the composition. To avoid lumps, you need to mix with a drill with a nozzle - a mixer until a homogeneous mass.

Mix at the time of preparation and before application to the surface. Water should be at room temperature. Modifiers can change properties if the instructions for use are not followed.

The air temperature is 18 - 24 degrees. The mixture hardens, it must be prepared in portions. The master will be required to accelerate activities and quality results.

2) The tiles do not need to be soaked, the base of the floor is not moistened when using dry mixes. The surface must be clean. If cement mortar is used, if the risk of unsatisfactory results.

Cases of using low quality sand, not screened and not dried. Cement may be outdated, lost quality. For heavy tiles, a low grade of cement is used, and the situation will also cause problems.

Using dirty water for mortar or seawater composition will ferment, the substances will not adhere. Sand may leave lumps. An inhomogeneous mortar will swell the tile.

According to all the evidence given, the customer should choose what is suitable for his surface.

If tiles are being laid, then it is not necessary to use cement mortar, it is worth adding additives to it to increase the adhesive effect.

The tile should not swell, crack and get other deformation. Properly done work will lead to a good result.

What are the reasons for not laying tiles on cement mortar? Write your opinion in the comments.

Before starting work, make sure that the base is level and clean. When gluing tiles, its moisture content should not exceed 8%. First, the tiles are laid out and the number of rows is determined, as well as the number of tiles in each row; match the pattern if available.

It is necessary to count the number of pieces and their size relative to the whole tile to cover narrow areas of the floor. You can cut the tiles using an electric machine, having previously installed a ceramic cutting disc for cutting.

Start laying tiles from the wall opposite the doorway (entrance).

Before laying, install pendulum tiles one level along the walls.

Periodically check the level with a long rod (deviation can be up to 4 mm).

Laying tiles on cement-sand mortar:

1. A solution with a thickness of 5-15 mm is applied to the wetted base, a width of 2-4 cm more than the width of the row.

2. The lower surface of the tile is moistened with cement milk (a thick mixture of water and cement) and placed on the mortar.

3. Align the tile with respect to others by tapping it with a hammer.

It is necessary to lay the mortar so much that, after the tiles are set down, it comes out through the seams and fills all the voids.

Before gluing the tile, its base is primed with mastic or bitumen dissolved in 3 parts of kerosene (gasoline).

Today, manufacturers produce many varieties of facing, floor and paving slabs. Made of natural and artificial stone, ceramics, cement compositions, porcelain stoneware and even glass. Each of these materials requires the use of a suitable adhesive solution to hold the tile to the substrate firmly and permanently.

Based on pure cement

This is the simplest tile solution, it is diluted with water to the consistency of a thin dough. It is applied to facing of the concrete base of a floor.

To do this, pour water on the floor, add dry cement and press the tile into the resulting “dough” according to the figure. This composition of cement mortar for tiles successfully competes with the following option.

Based on cement and sand

When laying tiles on, in addition to water and cement, pure (preferably river, sifted through a sieve) is added to the solution. Similar solutions (with a different ratio of sand and cement) are used for laying:

facing with ceramic products of a floor and walls.

So, for example, stone, ceramic or glass tiles can be laid on a composition that includes 2.5 parts of sand, one part of dry cement and 0.4 parts of water. This is an approximate recipe - we will be more specific depending on the conditions and characteristics of the tile.

To increase the plastic and strength properties, PVA glue is often added to the mixture. More modern additives are acrylic or latex (available in liquid form). You can replace part of the water with such an additive to improve the quality of the solution. If natural stone is placed, then it is advisable to add a plasticizer to the cement-sand mortar.

Dry adhesive mixtures

They are sold in bags in the form of ready-made powder, diluted with water according to the recipe. In most cases, the basis for them is cement (less often -). When the powder is diluted with water, the action of special modifying additives included in the mixture is manifested.

As additives can be used:

catalysts (hardening accelerators) or, conversely, hardening retarders;
polymeric substances that enhance the adhesive ability of the solution (latex or acrylic);
hydrophobic substances that increase water resistance;
dyes.

Using ready-made dry mixes is much more convenient than homemade cement mortar. But they are more expensive, and also require careful alignment of the facing base. The most popular brands: Atlas, Sopro, Eunice, Vetonit (Optirok), Ceresit, Kreisel.

Ready viscous mastics

Packed in plastic buckets, like dry formulations, they require a flat base (preferably or drywall).
Apply in a thin layer.
Made on the basis of latex or petroleum products with the addition of glue and other additional components.
Easy to use, but does not hold tiles as tightly as cement-based compounds.
Mainly used for ceramics.
Can't stand heat.

The difference in masonry mixtures

For walls and floors

In principle, there is no difference in the composition of the adhesive mixture. For laying tiles on walls and floors, the same composition of the mortar can be used (except for home-made cement-sand, you can add a little more sand).

The difference lies only in the thickness of the mortar layer (it will be thinner for walls), and also in the fact that when facing the floor, the masonry mixture is applied to the base, and when finishing the walls - to the back of the tile. About solutions for laying (laying) tiles on the street, on the porch and indoors, read their proportions below.

Note that tiling can also be done on painted walls, which will be described in detail in the following video:

For outdoor and indoor work

As a rule, the package with any dry adhesive mixture indicates for what conditions it is recommended to use it. And if a universal mixture is used indoors (for example, Ceresit CM 11 Plus), then another option is produced for outdoor use, which is more resistant to atmospheric influences.

For this purpose, special ingredients are added that give resistance to frost, increase elasticity (which will make it easy to withstand temperature changes) and moisture resistance. An example is the frost-resistant mixtures Ceresit CM17, Eunice 2000, Ceresit CM117.

As for the traditional sand-cement mortar, it is suitable for both indoor and outdoor cladding. The composition holds ceramics well. But vertical planes are still better not to finish with it. It is also not suitable for clinker with porcelain stoneware, which are laid only on special adhesive mixtures.

We talked about preparing a mortar for laying street tiles, now it's the turn of elements of various sizes.

The following video will be useful to all those who decide to make their own paving mortar with a waterproof composition:

For small and large items

There is a general rule: the smaller the tile, the more liquid mortar is needed for it. In addition, heavy tiles (with an area of 30 by 30 centimeters or more) are recommended to be placed on adhesive mixtures marked “reinforced”. These are, for example, Kreisel 103, Kreisel 104.

For dry and wet conditions

If in the kitchen or corridor you can lay tiles on almost any universal mortar (even based on gypsum), then for facing the pool, for example, an adhesive mixture of a special composition is required.

It should not collapse or flake off under prolonged exposure to water. For this, hydrophobic substances are added. Examples: Ceresit CM117, ANSERGLOB BCX44.

For normal and elevated temperatures

There is no excessive heating of surfaces inside residential premises, therefore, universal and basic dry mixes, as well as cement mortars, are suitable for gluing tiles. But if the surface of a stove or fireplace is exposed to cladding (which today is often installed in private homes), then a special composition must be used - refractory.

For example, adhesives K-77 (with refractory mineral fillers), Pechnik (based on a cement-sand mixture with fire-resistant additives), Termix (based on aluminate cement with additives).

The following video will just tell you about the composition and preparation of the mortar for tiling a real stove: