How to replace the tee sewage. Change the pipe sewage alternative sewage replacement method

Install the bath.

And what should I do if I do not know how to put the bath? Options 2 - ask how, or come up with your own. I chose the second. And I didn't just like this option, but very!

GO!

Under the acrylic or iron bath requires a frame. I have a thin-walled iron. I wanted plastic, and concrete, but did not have time. As I thought about this frame, it was so sissing! Sales structures are some sewage and material consumption. I limited to one pipe 20x40 under the edge and two levers.

The continuation of the "balcony is not like everyone else."

It was a matter of some furniture on the balcony, it is not particularly turned on, so we decided to do a pair of Tumba. Furniture workers made their work in principle normally, but there was a nuance left, which apparently they are not under power, or there were other arguments. The hostess arranged everything, in addition to the design of the adjoining the collapsions to the windowsill. On the one hand, it seems to be different and you can't do, even more so, the windowsill turned out to be flashed, on the other hand

Hello, brothers in repair! Long time I did not write anything here, and indeed it rarely began to go, everything is somehow underwritten: then a booze, then a goulock, and now the new "attack" attacked me. But knowing that you, despite anything, do not remember me, I decided not to be a pig, and tell you about my new hobby. I will start from afar: almost all my conscious life I worked as an electronic engineer, and the engineer-developer engineer of electronic and electrical devices of the widest class and destination, and at the same time purely in the "defense". It is clear that the scope of my amateur interests was limited only to my lazy, no restrictions in radio components simply did not exist for me, I had everything! Well, by following the trends of the then amateur radio fashion, I am the main emphasis on the radio and amplifiers, Esno, on transistors and chips. I have not worked for a long time in this area, and the details have long rose everything for a landfill, but in my soul, I had a dream all this time - to make a lamp capacity, but not simple, and so that everyone is frown. And I must say, at work I was most of my time dealt with electrical accomplices, radiologists, if on simple, so this topic was well acquainted for me. And then this fashion on the "warm lamp sound", according to which the people are literally crazy. In short, a year ago I decided to realize my dream of life. Immediately determined: mainstream, ordinary lamp amplifiers with a weekend transformer, I'm not interested, not the royal business! And whether to improte me a bopedransformed tube amplifier. Well, the difficulties on this path I represented myself well, and thoughts some of our own were on this bill, but still I decided to consult with the guys-radio amateurs. I found a suitable group on Facebook, I myself began to publish it, and somehow asked a question on the topic: Will I tell me who a scheme of such an amplifier will tell me. And I immediately give up a link: http: //hifisound.com.ua...a-6s33s-otl/ (I hope I did not violate any forum rules, leading here a direct link, especially since it is from a completely different area? ). I will not tell about this scheme, if anyone is interested, I can then explain what's happening there, just say that this scheme immediately interested me, and its unusualness, and the potential opportunities that I saw it. I decided to start. And where to start: details - 0, there is a soldering iron, still Soviet, and the Ketai tester. But, Likha trouble - the beginning: I was leaning on Avito, on Ali Express, went a couple of times on the Mitin Radio Radio, began to turn to the Radio-Dogeon Barahl. ..

Now I'm going to dangulate, and I will continue, if I wonder, already with pictures ...)))

Dear Lord Builders. I would like to know the detailed process of the correct alignment of the walls (reinforced concrete), the composition like Knauf ... In this case, I am a kettle, but I want to make a bedside of my daughter, but there is no money to lay out professionals for work, and there is no guarantee that Good pros ... So I want to know what yes, how, and how much is a pound of lich. Thanks for the advice. The walls will be aligned for the further paint of paint Shervin Williams.

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Show that something different from the tables in the blog, otherwise I have not been long ago.

Children's topics recently captured me not by childish. Different objects were asked to make a garden.

The first object, educational, necessary and useful. This traffic light, the children will study the rules of the road, the thing is archiving.

Immediately make a reservation, the version of the pedestrian with the little men also did, but more simple from the cardboard.

In principle, this is three glazing asked to make a cardboard simple, but unless I can do without problems)) I thought, and did not make a reliable learning subject, and did. How long enough.

The concept of the figure is such, quite large so that everything can be seen, steady, durable and with a turning mechanism, the meaning is that there are 4stores, one side shows all signals for a general understanding of the device.

Three other sides by one signal, the educator can turn and show any color out of 3 and asking the kids about his purpose.

In general, I thought it seemed to be correct

The initial thoughts about the color circles on magnets and other light bulbs had to cancel, you need a simple, understandable solution that is difficult to break, mugs of magnets may fail, battery bulbs fail.

Whether the idea turned out and I do not know, but time will tell.

The whole basis is MDF, which cleaned the PVA, for temporary tack, also fastened the microclemp.

Separately, I note that it is possible to make circles of different diameters on the circular, and the main thing is the same, with the help of not a cunning device, first cut the square blanks, and then on the device rotating the part to cut the corners to the polyhedron, and then rotate the part to the circle.

Bluccuke smoke, the visors are halves the glazes of the circles, there was a groove with a molebl, so in the end such things are not safely incisible.

The whole thing rotates on the pipe from the Joker system in my opinion for the racks, so that it does not fall out and the stops are not falling out, which clusted fixed.

The base made the massive and wide of thick layers of MDF, with such a base, the traffic light is not so easy to figure out on the side.

I put the fool and drilled through the pipe, I had to flip the plate from the return.

Painted everything from the can, then covered with varnish, the thing is ready.

Circles-signals did not paint, they are cut out of the paper of self-keys, it is easier to update the demonstration subject.

Who read, watch slides

For a better understanding, the question about the replacement of the tee without clarifications, how to ask "how much food is?".

I think it will be clear, the food is different in the case of tees, everything is the same, even more difficult.

1) What floor do you live on? If the latter, water can not be broken, if the floors below, the water overlap is included in the price of replacement.

2) Material of manufacturing a tee, what? Replacing the propylene tee is not at% and at times (!) Cheaper replacing the cast-iron tee.

3) Tee where is it? Replacing the cast-iron tee under the riser sewer pipe does not automatize and replace the toilet, especially if the toilet is mounted on the solution.

It is also not possible to change only a tee. There will have to change the riser vertical pipe.

4) What a tee diameter? If 50-t,

That is the tee of the inner laying of sewage, replacing such a tee is an order of magnitude cheaper than replacing the tee 110-mm.

5) Calicization pipe condition (I'm talking about cast iron now)? The fact is that with the poor condition of the pipes of the sewage, it is not possible for a side decontamination of a tee from the main pipe, it will simply split.

6) Toilet as enters the tee? If the toilet was installed in the USSR, then it was usually a neck of the throat for forever, replacing the tee under the toilet \u003d replacement of the toilet with a tee.

7) Is the riser sewer pipe be changed from the neighbors from the bottom? If so, when the tee is replaced, it does not need a decontamination, the pipe changes in the overlap and is connected to one unit with the standing of your neighbors from the bottom, such a job is cheaper.

These are only the main questions, without an answer to which even + - a kilometer is not possible to navigate at a price.

What is the cost of replacement of the sewer tee in Moscow

Replacing the riser sewer pipe, Moscow (along with a tee naturally, but without installation of the toilet), the price of work is 4,000 rubles. Rana pipe and tee, diameter 110 mm.

Replacing the internal sewer (pipe 50-T mm) 3,500 rubles.

One point, pipe diameter 50-TM mm cost 1,000 rubles.

At the end, not a lot of information from personal experience: a large firm will not take place for small work, if you take it, the price will be translated.

There is no fixed price for many types of work, repair, condition of pipes from the customer, the floor and so on, all this is very individual, the master particle, knows how much he earns an hour (on average) looks at the amount of work (not standard, to the standard refers , Replacing the riser, installation of toilet bowl and so on) prevents how much time it will take this job and calls the price.

There is a fixed minimum price, small and very small works (change the gasket, pull the nut and so on).

Simply call the plumbing and describe as accurately as possible (for example, the replacement of the tee in which the toilet is included, or the replacement of the tee under the sink and so on) there are no other options at all.

The tee is the most sought-after shaped element. For the sewage device, it can be cast iron or plastic. The choice of a certain type will depend on the specific situation and several important nuances.

Often, when repairing a riser or replacing it, there is a need to replace the sewage tee. This can be done independently or with the help of specialist efforts. In the first case, it is important to have basic knowledge and follow a clear sequence of actions. So, it should immediately note that tees can be oblique and straight. Such elements are used for different angles of joining the sewage riser.

Installation of a plastic sewage tee and a compound with a cast-iron pipe

Svesting sewage changes in such situations:

• if you need to reduce the level of placement of this element;
• if this item is largely worn out.

The reasons for the replacement of crossmen can also be attributed to the impossibility of conducting cleaning of the sewer system in the occurrence of serious deposits on the inner surfaces of the pipeline.

What material should the sewer tee be?

Most often such situations occur when a tee, which connects the riser with an intra-quarterly wiring, cracks or rotates. Then do not do without replacing it. As a result, the question arises, on the product from which material to stop your choice?

Compound of plastic pipes with cast iron

To select a suitable item, it is important to familiarize yourself as an assortment:

• cast iron tees are characterized by good mechanical strength. Despite this, such elements are afraid of shock loads. As for the load on compression and stretching, it is not necessary to fear that this is the cause of deformation or chip. The average life of the product is about 25 years;
• modern material for the manufacture of tees is considered to be polyvinyl chloride. Most of the plastic sewage is manufactured from this material. The service life in this case will be the minimum of 50 years. The advantages should include plasticity, and to disadvantages - splitting at large loads and shocks;
• the best material is polypropylene, which is easier than products from PVC, and it is characterized by good stiffness, wear resistance and resistance to temperature differences. In this case, the service life will be the same as in the previous version.

Now on sale there is a silent plastic sewage, having a multi-layer structure and characterized greater thick. If there is a need to break the cast-iron riser, then it is more expedient to give preference precisely a silent product.

For some, considerable importance is the ratio of the value of materials, since it can be very different, which affects the family budget. On the example, consider the need to replace the direct tee, the diameter of which is 110 mm, having all the necessary taps. The cost of such an element can be increased by one and a half times due to the use of a multilayer structure and an increased surface thickness. Of course, such parameters are attractive, so many do not mind overpay 100-200 rubles.

Determinating with the choice, you should know that a durable tee is more needed when drawing up a plot located above it, since it is precisely because of this that tees are often cracking. Please note that the cast-iron product does not prevent drawdown, it only prevents its quick split.

Wiring of plastic sewage pipes in the bathroom

In this case, it is advisable to give preference easier, solid and inexpensive plastic. What will be the material PVC or PP, does not matter much, since the operational characteristics of the plastics are almost the same.

Replacing the tee

Sooner or later, the time comes when the sewage town is replaced, mounted under the bathroom or another plumbing device. To replace yourself, you need to follow a specific instruction. In addition, it is important to prepare such items in advance:

• directly the tee itself;
• the same diameter you need to buy a compensating nozzle;
• to move from a cast-iron terminal to a plastic pipe, a rubber cuff will be required.

Works should begin with the fastening of the pipe over the tee of sewage. If it is not to fulfill such a condition that its drawdown may happen, which can lead to leakage and collapse of the mounting hole.

So, the process must be performed in such a sequence:

• the riser needs to overlap water, pre-warning the neighbors about the conduct of sanitary work;
• it is dismantled to the toilet and disconnecting intra-ordinary sewage;
• in the wall of the rummer, you should drill a hole using a drill with a diameter of 9.5 mm, and the level of this hole should be about one and a half meters from the floor;
• then a 10-millimeter segment of smooth reinforcement is driven;
• it is necessary to pull the wire at a level slightly below the reinforcement;
• you can not allow slipping of a similar clamp by pipe;
• the same claw must be imposed above the tee, lifting the pipe scrap for it until it stops;
• the clamp, located above, must be reliably attract to the reinforcement.

Installation of sewage pipes and connecting them with a riser

Dismantling works

• With the help of a chisel or perforator, you need to beat off the concrete seal for convenient removal of the tee and the termination that are under it.
• In the process of performing these works, it is important to be extremely attentive because due to the fallen pieces of concrete pieces can be closed sewage.
• Using a screwdriver and light hammer, you need to dismantle the sealing from cement and cabies, if there is such an opportunity.
• The riser is cut at a distance of a little more than the length of the compensating nozzle, namely under the tee from the conversion. The next incision should be below about 10 cm. After that, a piece of pipe can be safely removed.
• The tee can be removed by a gas key or manually, it is only important to turn it. After removing the detail of the slur, located under it clean.

Installation work

To replace the cast-iron sewage tee with a plastic element, you need to adhere to a certain sequence of work:

• it is necessary to clear the riser from pollution and old paint on the length of the socket;
• directly under the incision is placed simple purchased claw claw. Its role is to hold the compensator from the offset;
• next, the peeled pipe should be pulled by a compensating pipe. For the ease of process, you can handle the element with liquid or ordinary soap;
• with the help of a rubber cuff, the tee must be gently inserted into the socket;
• if the process is properly executed, the compensator must be cut into the upper fuel of the tee, after which they perform fixation using a clamp;
• at the end of the work, the installation of the toilet and the rowing is connected.

Connection of sewer riser and plastic pipes

To perform work, you need to get such instruments and materials:

• new cross;
• compensating coupling;
• roulette;
• hacksaw;
• pencil;
• gloves;
• The 20-centimeter tube segment, the diameter of which can be up to 3 cm.

Phased performance

• Preparatory work is carried out at the first stage. You need to ask the neighbors in advance from above not to use the sewer for some time. Simply, if plumbing processes are performed on the top floor.
• At the second stage, the pipe markup is carried out for its correct cutting. To do this, it is necessary to retreat 7.5 cm from the upper border of the squab, making a cutting mark. To make a smooth cut, it is recommended to use the welder way. The pipe is wrapped with a newspaper and smoothly combine the edge. Next, the markup is performed throughout the circumference. You don't need to cut immediately, you should remove the pipes that are connected to the cross. If special cuffs are used to fasten the stand to the wall, they need to be removed.
• Now you need to clean the workspace from unclean. And prevent possible drainage from forgetful neighbors. To do this, the lid of the viewing tee is unscrewed, then a condom is inserted into a portion of the pipe that is above this hole. It is usually put on the tip of the tube in advance and tie a thread. Now you need to inflate it and tie. Performing such actions, it is possible to escape from uncleanness for a while. Despite such precautions, you need to work quickly.
• At the last stage, the pipe is cut on a pre-prepared markup. The upper area is deflected aside to perform the dismantling of the old cross. Outing gloves, the old element is carefully removed, while the new crosstin is installed in its place. Now the compensator should be put on the pipe to make it easier, it is recommended to apply a soap solution on the compensator sealing cuff.

It can be said that the main part of the work is made. After that, it is necessary to pierce the condom and back to spin the lid of the revision opening. If there is a need, plugs are installed on the outputs of the cross, or pipes are mounted, which are then fixed to the wall with the help of fasteners.

Despite the warning, some neighbors forget about the request not to use the sewage system, so it is recommended to have an empty basin at hand, which can be substituted during the drain of unclean.

At the very beginning of the repair of the toilet at the stage of dismantling the toilet, sinks, water supply and sewer tubes stumbled upon an unexpected problem in the form of leaks. The house is almost new - 3 years of construction. Before the start of repair, no problems were observed. But after the drain nozzles were disconnected, and the holes in the crossed riser were drowning through the corks, the riser of the flow.
Well, not that the river. Not even a stream, but such a practically imperceptible drip flow. Nevertheless, she did not give peace. It was aggravated by all the fact that it was already time to start up the construction of a new wall of the plumbing box. And after its construction, access to the lower elements of the sewage is seriously complicated. The reason for the dugout did not give in any explanations.

It looked like this. The most nuclear junction of the pipes, or rather the pipes sticking out of the floor and inserted into it crosses was constantly wet. However, there were no marks of the fact that water gets there on top. Moreover, with a careful examination with a flashlight, a periodic ejection of the droplets from the lower pipe was clearly observed. Actually, it also gave rise to the version that the cause of the leaks is a poor-quality or missing sealing rubber tube cuff.

Anyway, earlier, I still thought about replacing the tee, because the riser added two more clients: a washing machine and a dishwasher in the kitchen at the next wall. Earlier in the bathroom, we easily changed the tee of a riser together with Kum, spending on this procedure seconds 20. But something did not really want to change the tee of the deliberately current sewer rummer. As far as I know, then risers, both sewage and water supply - this is the DEZ relief area. Therefore, I called there and invited to 18:00 Plumbing Vasily - the author of the legendary phrase "the domestic valve with a precipitated lid under the gland."

Vasily agreed that the reason was probably the absence of a cuff. However, I said that I would be it best to invite a brigade for morning for morning or day. I assured him that he could count on me, as a member of the brigade, and that if the brigades of two people are enough, then it's time to start repairing right now.

Okay, let's first look at the cuff! - I decided to Vasily and the procedure began.

Need to change! But how to disassemble the sewer riser?

Really? AS? Now everything will be told in detail.

Not - I'll tell you those who think that to remove the pipe from the riser, the whole thing in the collection is supplied up or down - it is unrealistic because the pipe sticking out of the ceiling and floor are fixed quite thoroughly.

And not like that - There will be a response to those who believe that the riser must be rejected aside and then its length will increase, which will allow you to free up the element.

In fact, the riser is very easy! For this, it provides a special element - compensator. This is a short pipe, the squabs of which is significantly longer than the usual 5 cm splitting elements for all other elements. Thus, this compensator can be shifted to the top pipe of centimeters by 15-20, which will give the opportunity to quietly disassemble the sewer riser and replace any item .

IMPORTANT! If you decide on such a replacement, then to facilitate the work, 2-3 hours before the start of dripping a little machine oil in the compensator connections and other elements that you plan to disassemble. And on the wall it will absolutely notice to note the initial heights of the joints. Just in case.

So. After applying the compensator up together with all the tees attached to it, we took out the lowest connection. Vasily won the cuff from the tube. And while none of the tenants of the upper 9 floors decided to wash, or, of course, much more fun, to lower the toilet, we pushed the crossbar back into the pipe.
The cuff did not cause any complaints. There was no sense to change the cuff, and I suggested Vasily to replace the lower tee to a new cross. Vasily asked her to present, and inspected, expressed satisfaction with the quality of the element, finding it higher than the existing item. Indeed, all the surfaces of the crosses were perfectly smooth unlike noticeably rough old.

Washed 3-4 minutes of state, when the noise of water inside the sewage subsides, we once moved the compensator upwards. Vasily put in the lower pipe a new (just in case) a cuff - 3 seconds. Disconnected the old cross - 2 seconds. A bad and very suspicious sound began to appear in the riser! ( drumroll) The growing strength as the approaching locomotive, the sound left no doubt that its cause is 6 liters of water from the toilet bowl + a number of human life products - in a liquid or somewhat solid form.
At absolutely no desire to make sure the person in the type of product, we set new crossbars in the bottom nozzle and moved down the compensator and the top tee, putting in 3 seconds. The whole replacement took 8 seconds, although the last three seconds, as it seemed to me, stretched very long ...

Such a quick replacement is possible if all disconnected old and connected new elements are pre-processed by lubricant in the joints of the joints. If there is no machine oil at hand, then, at worst, you can use the usual sunflower.

Installed back all stand holders, we went to wash your hands and wondered:

Why was the sewage riser proceeded?

The rubber cuff is excluded, the narrowing of the crossed was until the stop is stopped into the lower nozzle. Only one reason remains in the crossliner. And to be she can only in one place - in the one that could not be seen while she was part of the riser. This is the lower corner of the tee.

Turning it from legs on the head, we immediately discovered this crack.

Judging by the mind, the crack was far from fresh. Apparently she clogged from the inside themselves, know, and it, dried, formed a sealing interlayer. However, it was worth just to move the removal and this unreliable sealant stopped performing its functions.

See what shit! - poked Vasily's finger to a defective tee.

I just proposed to take it with me in the DEZ as proof of the repairs of the riser without calling the emergency brigade. He politely refused.
Also politely did not refuse little thankfulness, and, as it seemed to me, quite satisfied with the work done and the reason found, he spoke.

And who he is our today's hero?

Zyzh: It is clear that to draw conclusions about the quality based on such a small sample, incorrectly. Therefore, if you have something to say about the quality of this or that manufacturer of PP pipes for sewage system, I ask for a kamenty!

Consider the replacement of the tee (in our case - crosses) of the active plastic riser of the sewage. The need for replacement is due to the fact that the flat cross is not suitable for us - we will set the volume.

To replace the tee you will need:

1. Actually new crosses
2. Compensating coupling
3. Hacksaw
4. Roulette
5. Pencil or marker
6. Gloves
7. Condom
8. A small cut tube (long 20-40cm, diameter10-30mm)

First stage - Preparation:

We kindly ask all your neighbors on top of the riser not to use water and especially the toilet for the time of work, in the doors of those apartments where we did not find a note with a request.

Well, if the work is carried out on the last floor of the house - all this does not have to do.

Second phase:

Making the markup of the cutting pipe. From the top edge of the rabble of the old crossed, we retreat 75 mm and make a tag on the pipe - here and we will cut.

In order not to cut off the oblique - we use the method of welders: Verify the pipe with a newspaper and smoothly align the edge; Make a pencil markup throughout the circumference of the pipe. It is not necessary to cut yet. We dismantle the pipes suspended to the cross. If the riser is fastened to the wall with fasteners - remove them.

Third stage:

We protect the workplace, and most importantly, self-forgetful old women and malicious neighbors flowing on the pipe: we unscrew the lid of the audit tee; In a part of the pipe above the hole insert a condom, which is pre-installed on the tube (not until the end-on the tip !!) and secured with thread. Inflate and tie.

Now for a short time we are saved from uncleanness, then act quickly and confidently

Fourth stage:

We cut the pipe along the cooked markup; Upper the upper part to reject the opportunity to take out the old crossbar, take it out (do not forget about gloves!); insert a new cross in place; I put the compensator to the pipe until it stops (apply a soap solution to the compensator sealing cuff - then it will be removed much easier) Now you see for what we used a compensation coupling - the compensator socket has a length three times more than a fool on other parts of the pipes - putting it up to the pipe And together coaxially, we have the opportunity to combine their "removing" the compensator from the pipe.

Actually the bulk of the work is made. We blow up or pierce the condom, tighten the audit cover. If you need to put the plugs on the exits of the crossbar or we collect pipes connected to the cross, fasten the riser to the wall.