How to make a corner linen cabinet. Do-it-yourself corner wardrobe: device

The design of a living space plays a very important role in the life of a modern person, therefore, great attention is paid to its creation. In the interior of the rooms, they think over all the details, from flooring, wall decoration to furniture. At the same time, furniture should be multifunctional, ergonomic, reliable, durable and beautiful. Recently, many people prefer corner cabinets, as they are perfectly combined with the general interior of the room, they do not take up much space. Corner cabinets can be made by hand: this way you can free the room from the traditional bulky wardrobe.

Advantages of the corner cabinet

When decorating a room, special attention should be paid to the choice of furniture so that it is comfortable, comfortable and does not take up much space. Recently, corner cabinets have become in great demand. They are an excellent alternative to conventional models as they have the following advantages:

Versatility. You can independently make a cabinet of any size, any shape. In addition, it is possible to select the desired color with maximum accuracy. The construction made in this way will harmonize well with the rest of the furniture in the apartment.

Multifunctionality. The corner cabinet model can be supplemented with mezzanines, hangers, drawers and shelves. Therefore, outwardly, the furniture will look compact, and inside it will be possible to place many things and objects without any problems. Homemade corner cabinets will fit not only clothes, shoes, household appliances, toys, but even various cleaning products. Before starting the assembly of the structure, you need to carefully consider the placement of future boxes and shelves, so it will be possible to rationally use the space of the room.
Ease of use. Modern door mechanisms make the closing and opening of the cabinet noiseless.

There are many positive qualities, but the main advantage of corner cabinets is space saving. Thanks to its convenient design shapes, it can be easily installed even in the smallest room. Such models look original in the bedroom, living room and hallway.

DIY development stages

When planning to start work on the manufacture of a cabinet, it is worth carefully considering all the details of future furniture, its appearance, dimensions. In addition, you need to know how to make a drawing, a cabinet diagram, along which the walls will be cut, and the assembly itself is carried out. As a rule, the diagram contains all the necessary dimensions and distances that are needed to fix the parts. The drawing is drawn by hand or made to order. Before making a cabinet, you need to take into account various nuances.

How to make a drawing?

When creating diagrams, the external dimensions of the product are first indicated: the dimensions of the cabinet box, its height and width. The drawings must also show the thickness of all parts. First, the construction box itself is drawn, then its filling. All circuits should consist of two main views: side and front. On the sketches, the width of the sections, the distance between the shelves, the height of the base and the dimensions from the beginning of the part to the attachment point are mandatory.

How not to be mistaken with the dimensions?

When drawing drawings, it is necessary to use the simplest geometry formulas, which are known to everyone from school. At the same time, when drawing diagrams, it is worth knowing the exact dimensions of the cabinet. How to calculate the sizes - this question worries all novice masters. However, there is nothing difficult in this: you should calculate the size of the diagonal yourself (for a standard size structure it is 80 × 80 cm), the thickness of the material and the size of the gaps, and you also need to design the angle of the facade.

So that the facades open freely during operation and do not ask each other, it is worthwhile to provide for the presence of small gaps on each side.

What should be the facade?

When assembling a corner cabinet with your own hands, you also need to know what the facade should be. To do this, initially it is required to design a model of the structure, then, according to the drawings, you need to make and assemble the parts, correctly measuring the dimensions of the opening. Many people buy a ready-made facade (on order). However, if there is a desire, then it is quite possible to make it yourself. To do this, you need to use a geometric formula, not forgetting the thickness of the side walls.

How to arrange inside?

When all the sketches are ready, it remains to decide what the cabinet will be inside. It is worth noting that the "filling" of the design directly depends on personal preferences. The most economical option is considered to be the use of stationary laminated shelves and rails for clothes.

If financial possibilities permit, then the cabinet can be additionally equipped with pull-out shelves, baskets, various products on pull-out wheels.

Choice of materials

An important issue in the independent manufacture of a cabinet is the choice of material. It should be noted right away that natural wood in this case is used quite rarely, because its price is high, and it is rather difficult to assemble a cabinet made of wood that would meet all the requirements during operation. In addition, the care of such furniture is labor-intensive, natural raw materials are "capricious" in operation, requiring additional coating with protective varnishes and paints. Therefore, many craftsmen prefer to use drywall, chipboard and MDF for the manufacture of corner cabinets.

Chipboard is a board made of wood chips, which is produced by the method of hot pressing. Particleboard can differ in cladding options, thickness, number of layers and formaldehyde content. As a rule, plates with a thickness of 16, 18 and 25 mm are chosen for the body of the structure. Their performance will not differ, the only thing is that the thicker the chipboard, the more solid the cabinet will turn out. Often the slabs are faced with a special film - like natural wood or plastic.

MDF Is a finely dispersed fraction, which is essentially the same sawdust, only processed by the dry pressing method. Such raw materials are considered environmentally friendly. MDF boards are decorated in various ways, they are reliable and have an aesthetic appearance. In some cases, sheets of drywall are used to assemble furniture, which is presented in a wide range.

When choosing raw materials for a cabinet, one must take into account not only its appearance, but also practicality.

Fittings

When all the main body parts are ready, you should start choosing accessories for the cabinet. Today it will not be difficult to acquire suitable fittings. Components can be different - depending on the shape of the structure and its content.

For a corner cabinet of standard sizes, you will need the following elements:

shelf holder;
self-tapping screws (for fastening adjustable supports and facade hinges);
pole or crossbar;
adjustable support;
furniture hinges;
pens;
screws;
washers for screws;
nails;
legs.

It is worth noting that the number and dimensions of components directly depend on the dimensions of the cabinet, the thickness of its walls and the internal filling.

How to remake an old one?

Quite often, furniture in the process of use becomes old-fashioned and loses its original attractiveness, but at the same time it is quite reliable and strong. In this case, the right solution would be to modernize it. In addition, it is quite possible to make a corner cabinet from an ordinary one, or to remake a structure from an old wardrobe. To create a new cabinet model, you will need to calculate the dimensions of the corner structure, prepare all the parts and process the old surface.

Sequencing:

Remove old paint or varnish, sand all external furniture parts.
Paint. It can be either a single-color layer or an original one with stains. A smooth transition looks beautiful (paints of different shades).
Cover with varnish. In the event that the old cabinet is made of natural wood, then it has a natural texture, which only needs to be supplemented with a protective coating. Such a restored product will fit well into the design of rooms decorated in eco, country styles.
Decorate with applications from photographs or cover with foil. The film with images of stone, wood, metal looks unusual.

Then you need to pick up the front fittings. So the appearance of the corner cabinet will be transformed, and the decorative overlays will accurately indicate the style of the room. We must not forget about replacing the handles. If you choose porcelain models, painted with flowers, you get a Provence style wardrobe, but the staples made from the root of a palm tree will indicate ethno.

The wardrobe in its new form must necessarily be provided with modern functionality, this will make it comfortable and roomy. At the same time, it is better to remove the standard shelves from the old cabinet and replace it with multifunctional retractable systems. So instead of an outdated wardrobe, you will get a modern model of a corner wardrobe with bars for all types of clothes, laundry baskets, shoe racks and hangers for belts and ties.

The presence of internal lighting will not interfere with the corner design.

You will learn more about how to make and how to restore a cabinet with your own hands in the following video.

How to put it right?

Furniture is important for every apartment. At the same time, a corner cabinet deserves special attention, its location directly depends on the room in which such furniture is installed. Often, such designs can be found in the kitchen. Thanks to its versatile shapes, the cabinet will not only fit beautifully into the overall interior of the room, but will also help save space. In addition, corner cabinets in the kitchen (thanks to the many drawers and shelves) allow housewives to store various things.

No hallway is complete without such an important piece of furniture as a wardrobe. It is an obligatory part of such a room. Corner wardrobe is easy to place in any corner of the hallway. In this case, the structure will become a decorative element in the interior, it will save space well.

Designers advise using corner cabinets in the nursery. It is in this room that children have to spend most of their time, so it should be comfortable for classes and games. The corner model is considered an ideal solution for a nursery, it is very suitable for storing things, toys and does not clutter up the space.

The sliding wardrobe saves space by itself, and if it is made in the corner, then this is the most successful option. It does not attract too much attention to itself, leaves a lot of free space in the apartment, and how much you can put in it! It is quite possible to make a comfortable corner wardrobe with your own hands.

Design features

Unlike its usual counterparts, the corner wardrobe is always designed as a stationary one. It is created according to the dimensions of a specific corner and does not imply its movement.

First you need to decide which corner cabinet you need. Basic types of construction:

triangular;
trapezoidal;
L-shaped;
"Five-wall".

In addition, cabinets can be built-in and cabinet. A built-in wardrobe is essentially a small pantry. The shelves in it are mounted directly on the walls, and the space is fenced off with a door. The cabinet cabinet has a plinth, a top cover and a back wall, at least made of thin fiberboard sheets.

The most "economical" for space is a triangular cabinet: it has no side walls. Its depth will be determined only by the width of the walls, which you are ready to "give up". The rest of the cabinets are a little more difficult to manufacture and will have additional depth.

If you decide to make a corner wardrobe with your own hands, it makes sense to use the entire space from floor to ceiling to ensure maximum capacity.

It is very important to take into account the peculiarities of the corner itself. If there are irregularities on the floor or walls, they must be leveled, because they can affect the operation of the sliding door mechanism. In addition, experts recommend making all preliminary measurements only after leveling the walls and floor! Pay attention to the skirting board near the floor or under the ceiling - will it allow you to mount a cabinet?

Today, the manufacture of a radius cabinet is popular, the facade of which is made in the form of a semicircle or a wave. Such furniture fits harmoniously into a variety of interiors. Such a wardrobe is especially good for a large hallway and bedroom. For the kitchen, the corner version made of plasterboard is very popular - it is simple to perform and takes up very little space.

When you make drawings of the interior of such a cabinet, you need to take into account its purpose. If it is a closet for a hallway, it should have a bar for outerwear, shelves for shoes (possibly high for boots), shelves for hats and accessories, a place for umbrellas, gloves, etc. In the living room, a wardrobe can serve as a storage for books, documents, blankets and bedspreads, beautiful dishes. Accordingly, the main thing in it is the shelves. A small safe can also be envisaged. A wardrobe for a bedroom usually contains clothes, linen, bedding. A bar, and drawers, and shelves, and cells are appropriate in it.

Step-by-step instruction

After the diagrams and sketches of the cabinet are created and approved by your household, you can start making the cabinet. You will need the following materials and tools (sample list):

furniture board;
metal profile and roller mechanism for doors;
fiberboard sheets for the back wall (if it is supposed);
boxes, doors, rods, hooks;
fittings;
bezels (if required);
puncher;
screwdriver;
"Hexagon";
"Level" (to assess the evenness of the shelves);
glue, ruler, tape measure, pencil;
triangle;
screwdrivers, hammer;
fasteners (bolts, confirmations, shelf supports, etc.)

According to the experience of many men who have already created cabinets with their own hands, it is best to entrust the sawing of boards and their external edging to professionals: send the material to a workshop where there is a special tool for precise cutting. They can also make original milling on the facades. You can independently "cut" shelves and parts for drawers - ie. internal filling of the cabinet.

If your closet is built-in, first of all you need to mark the boundaries on the floor where the doors will be. The same lines need to be applied to the ceiling. Then shelves and rods are screwed to the walls using a punch and other tools. The final touch is the installation of the guides for the doors and the doors themselves.

For cabinets with rear panels and a bottom, the base / plinth or podium of the cabinet is first assembled and installed. Then a long and responsible process begins - drilling holes. You must first carefully mark all the attachment points. Then you can drill. If the hole is made on a plane, an 8mm drill is required. For end holes - 5 mm, and its depth should not exceed 60 mm.

Each do-it-yourself cabinet is unique, so it's impossible to make a universal description that would suit everyone. But there are some general principles for assembling this type of furniture.

First, the cabinet frame is assembled - that is, its vertical walls and partitions, which are fastened together by horizontals - a plinth, top cover, etc. Then shelves and rods are screwed to the side walls. Drawer carriages are attached. A metal sliding door mechanism is attached at the top and bottom. After that, the back wall is attached (usually it consists of several sheets of fiberboard, cut to fit the sections of the cabinet). Then - drawers and doors are installed.

Ideally, the cabinet should be assembled “lying down” - that is, spreading the details on the floor. This makes the assembly more likely to be accurate. But this is not always possible due to limited space. In addition, a tall cabinet that almost reaches the ceiling can be very difficult to lift. The main rule of "standing" assembly is to collect all the parts from the bottom up - the base, side walls and partitions, then - the shelves, etc.

A carefully thought-out sketch, a good layout, a little patience and precision - and your own corner cabinet will delight you for many years!

It is quite difficult to make a corner cabinet for the kitchen on your own, but the result obtained will meet all expectations. The creation of furniture for kitchens of non-standard dimensions depends on the layout of the room. Stores don't always offer corner cupboards that can save space in a small kitchen.

It is quite difficult to make a corner cabinet for the kitchen on your own, but the result will meet all expectations.

Sometimes you may only need a base cabinet, but the conditions of a small kitchen do not allow you to put it indoors. It will be cheaper to make it yourself than to spend money on ordering custom-sized furniture. Having thought over the design at the beginning, you should start developing a drawing indicating all dimensions. The purchase of the necessary materials is made on the basis of the calculations made.

On sale for creating pieces of furniture there is always chipboard and MDF. These types of materials are in high demand. Specialists who sell them can immediately process the edges of the workpieces after cutting. If you order the drilling of holes in advance, this will allow you to connect the parts using dowels.

You can make not only small floor cabinets, but also furniture sets. They are necessary for storing utensils, dishes, household kitchen appliances, food. Before creating such a project, a kitchen plan is drawn up, where the location of the stove, sink, pipes, hoods, etc. is noted. Wall cabinets allow you to disguise the gas meter and wiring. Inside them, shelves are provided where the dishes should be stored.

If the kitchen is already furnished, then the plan can help to increase its functionality. When compiling it, you need to make sure that the new furniture will fit between the already installed objects. It may be necessary to make kitchen boxes, the exact measurements of which are of great importance. Furniture doors should swing open and swing open, and drawers should slide out. When making measurements in the kitchen, it should be borne in mind that its corners may not be perfectly straight.

It is important that the corner cabinet can fit tightly between adjacent pieces of furniture. The curvature of the corners and walls leads to the fact that neighboring cabinets have walls spaced 1 cm or more from each other in one place, and in another - such a gap disappears. This leads to a lack of space for new furniture. If you make the corner structure yourself, you can always make it smaller.

How to make a corner kitchen cabinet (video)

Materials for DIY furniture creation

A kitchen equipped with furniture should have a uniform decor. If there are pieces of furniture in the kitchen, the appearance of which is outdated, you can replace their facades. This will require the purchase of new materials. For this purpose, the decoupage technique is also suitable. Furniture made from the same types of materials can be decorated in this style.

The choice of material can begin after determining the place where the cabinet for the kitchen will be located. It can be angular or wall-mounted, which is determined in advance. Measurements are made first, and then sawing is ordered.

You can make not only small floor cabinets, but also furniture sets

The material used for the manufacture of kitchen furniture must meet the following requirements:

resistance to high humidity and hot steam;
strength;
ease of care, etc.

Laminated chipboard, which has increased moisture resistance and density, is considered ideal. The size of the thickness of this material can be 16-18 mm. From above it is covered with a layer of artificial veneer. To make a cabinet for the kitchen, you can use the following types of materials:

MDF boards;
multiplex;
wood massif.

In order to save materials, it will be necessary to plan the manufacture of small pieces of furniture. For example, a narrow cupboard does not take up much space in the kitchen.

A wall cabinet for the kitchen, made of MDF boards, will withstand any adverse influences. The cost of this material is more expensive than chipboard, so the product will be of higher quality. The surface of MDF boards can be matte or glossy, painted or laminated.

The kitchen, furnished with multiplex furniture, is resistant to mechanical stress. This material is considered moisture resistant, it is made from thick veneer. A polyurethane varnish is used to cover the surface. If curved panels are made to order, then you can make a corner sideboard with a radius facade out of this material.

Solid wood is the most expensive material that requires special impregnation, as well as processing with a protective varnish. From such a canvas, you can make an elite sideboard for the kitchen by combining it with other types of materials. For example, it can be frames for facades.

DIY corner kitchen (video)

Preparing to Build the Model

The kitchen is a place for cooking, therefore, safety requirements must be observed in this room: the distance between cabinets and a sink, table or stove must be made acceptable. Corner cabinet design includes left and right sides, symmetrical to each other. The dimensions of the roof and bottom are usually exactly the same. Some models may have a heel counter.

The height of a kitchen cabinet is usually related to the height of the table, stove or sink. If the kitchen has a high ceiling, then you can make a pencil case with your own hands. The worktop, which is the cabinet lid, should protrude beyond the facade. The depth of the inner shelves is less than the lid and bottom, otherwise the product door will not close. Hanging cabinets sometimes reach the ceiling, especially in small kitchens.

Kitchen furnished with multiplex furniture is resistant to mechanical stress

In addition to the basic materials, auxiliary elements will be required:

fittings (door hinges);
lifting mechanism with a lock when the door is hinged;
corners for hanging wall cabinets;
shelf supports;
dowels, pins, euroscrews for screed elements;
pens, etc.

Of the tools you will need:

jigsaw;
iron;
drill;
screwdriver;
milling cutter;
stapler, etc.

After cutting the material, you can start assembling. It is carried out in the following sequence:

Drill holes in the sides for the shelf supports. Connect them with jumpers that are horizontal.
Secure the roof and bottom.
Attach the drawer runners to the body.
Mount the back and reinforce the back bar.
Reinforce the false panel to the roof, sidewall and bottom.
Hang the doors, having previously reinforced the hinges.

Corner wardrobes are extremely ergonomic: due to the beveled shape, they do not appear bulky and, at the same time, are extremely spacious. Let's look at examples of how to make a corner cabinet with your own hands - what models can be implemented, what typical dimensions, filling can be and how to calculate details using the example of ready-made drawings and diagrams.

Structures, drawings and photos of corner cabinets

Conventionally, corner cabinets can be divided into two categories: beveled trapezoidal and strictly rectangular, with diagonally and perpendicular facades. In both cases, the cabinet can be:

Symmetrical and asymmetrical.
With separate mezzanines and without mezzanines.
Combined filling and dedicated exclusively to shelves or hangers.
With internal or external drawers.
With a different number of facades (one-door, two-door, three-door).
With execution in the form of showcases, open racks and designed for storage of clothes.

We will consider only diagrams of wardrobe (wardrobe) corner cabinets with our own hands.

Corner wardrobes with perpendicular sashes, most often, represent an additional composition of two conventional wardrobes with a slightly modified design. In rare cases, it can be a cast structure, especially if the front part is sliding, "accordion".

The advantage of trapezoidal corner cabinets is their large capacity and functionality. For example, the width of the outer sidewalls can be reduced to a minimum, and this does not interfere with placing hangers with bulky clothes - after all, the inner part expands towards the center.

Do-it-yourself corner cabinet: determine the size

Before wondering how to make a corner cabinet with your own hands, you need to decide on the overall dimensions. Ergonomic shapes attract many, but it is not always possible to achieve the desired, if the allotted space for placement is too small.

The smallest dimensions of a corner cabinet with your own hands can be compared to the typical dimensions of a kitchen hinged module. It takes 600x600mm from the corner. In order for the facade to be of sufficient width (minimum 400 mm), the depth of the uprights (sidewalls) is set to no more than 300 mm. Naturally, with such dimensions, there can be no question of placing the bar under the hanger. Only shelves or hooks for clothes.

For a corner wardrobe with a compartment for hanging clothes, the distance from the corner, at least on one side, must be at least 800mm. Then the depth of the rack can be set as 450mm, which is quite enough for hangers with light clothes (for "men's" and outerwear it is required from 500mm). Diy diagrams of corner cabinets with their own hands are approximately the same, in the ratio of the depth of the rack and the remaining space for the facade.

With asymmetric options, it is quite possible to realize what was conceived with dimensions from an angle of 850x650mm, 800x700mm, etc.

How to make a corner cabinet with your own hands using the example of a drawing

Consider a typical symmetrical model with dimensions of 2100x900x900mm. A do-it-yourself corner cabinet drawing will look like this.

Along one of the sides, the width of the body allows the placement of shelves, they must be made taking into account the required space for the rod hinge - from 500 mm minimum. Drawers can be built into the section with shelves. The only nuance that should be taken into account in the future is the placement of loops on the facade. The hinge must not “hit” either the drawer or the shelf!

The height of the cabinet allows two rods to be placed under clothes. Distances of 900-1100 mm are sufficient for short jackets, shirts, and the hem of long dresses can be simply “thrown” over the lower bar. Or you can make a shelf above or below, for hats or shoes.

How to calculate the details of a corner cabinet with your own hands

After you have decided on the dimensions of the corner cabinet with your own hands, the internal filling, you can begin to calculate the details. The easiest option is in the form of a table in the Excel office program.

We write down all the details in strict accordance with the texture of the drawing, first the length, then the width. If you drive the formula into a tabular form for calculating the quadrature of each part, then you can sum up and roughly estimate how much the cabinet will "pour out" into.
At the same time, we mark the visible sides that will need to be rolled up with the edge in units. Also, the formulas will help to pre-calculate the footage of the end tape.
I recommend highlighting irregularly shaped parts so as not to lose sight of them (for example, as in the table below - in yellow). And also clearly show along which side they will roll up the edge.
You can see how to calculate the size of the facades for a corner cabinet. Strictly speaking, the front part can be made of another material - for example, MDF or solid wood.
Fiberboard detailing is considered a similar method.

DIY corner cabinet cut cards

The calculated dimensions of the parts from Excel are transferred to a special nesting program. Parts for which the direction of the pattern is not critical (for example, stiffeners, plinth, internal shelves) can be rotated to minimize waste. In our case, there is a reason to make the front part from a different material - the body of the corner cabinet with our own hands economically "lays down" on two sheets.

Sawing can be ordered from a third party along with PVC seaming. Typically, such services are provided by all firms selling laminated chipboard. At home, it is rather laborious and accurate to roll up PVC. We'll have to be content with melamine tape, the only plus of which is its low cost. The table shows that 28.83 running meters will be needed. But it is better to take with a margin, + 10-15%.

How to mark the details of the cabinet for drilling

If you correctly mark and drill all the details onto the corner cabinet with your own hands, then in the end it will be assembled very simply, like a designer. The most convenient way to do this is in special furniture programs, for example, Basis Mebel.

The principles are simple:

Furniture is assembled on euro screws (confirmations).
Details are drilled into the end and from the front side.
The distance from the edge of the front side part must be the same. For example, 50 mm. Or in the center.

After the fasteners are placed, we number the parts. If there are parts of the same size, but with a different fastening principle, we use additional markings (a, b, etc.).

In Basis Mebel, you can get the specifications for drilling in this form.

But here you need to be careful, clearly imagine where the corner cabinet part has a "face" with your own hands, and where is the "wrong side", along the sides rolled up with the edge. The program does not see this nuance, it arranges the fasteners from left to right. And during the drilling process, you may come across details that need to be mirrored. Basically, it's not difficult. Anyway, with the pre-drilling specifications, the whole process will go much faster.

How much will it cost to make a corner cabinet with your own hands?

With the correct drawing up of the drawings of the corner cabinet with your own hands, all the calculation stages, the risks of errors that lead to inevitable additional expenses are reduced to zero. If you make any furniture with your own hands, then it is always cheaper. Actually, nothing prevents from predicting costs before the start of all work. Find out all the prices for materials, fittings and hardware in your city that will be required when making a cabinet with your own hands, and drive into a simple Excel plate.

The most significant costs will be for the purchase of laminated chipboard and cut. We took a standard model - from changes up or down by 100-200 mm, the material consumption will not change significantly. It will also take about 2-3 sheets, depending on the number of shelves and facades (they will be ordered separately or not).

Making a wardrobe with your own hands is easier than a table or chair, but somewhat more difficult than a stool or nightstand. If you have a good idea of how these pieces of furniture are made, then you can take on the closet. There are 3 options for organizing work:

A simple, unassuming wardrobe in the utility rooms. It is preferable to start with it for beginners: there will be benefits, flaws are out of sight, and the acquired skills will be useful in the future;
A cabinet cabinet "like everyone else's" in living rooms, but with significantly, 2-2.5 times less money costs. At the cost of your own labor and skill, of course;
At a cost comparable to or even less than for an ordinary purchased wardrobe, it is possible to make a wardrobe very solid and durable, which are sold as extra or luxury.

Sliding wardrobes are especially popular now: they save a lot of living space, and fittings and door sliding mechanisms are affordable for them. It is more difficult to make a wardrobe with your own hands than a swing wardrobe, but it is still possible for a novice furniture maker. And, as will be discussed below, it is possible to save a lot on fairly expensive door profiles.

The built-in wardrobe gives even greater material savings, see fig. But it is definitely worth taking on it only if the apartment has a ready-made niche or a solid floor is laid on an equalizer. Otherwise, floor leveling work will more than eat up all the savings. The ceiling may also need to be trimmed, but not so accurately and the work is easier.

In any home there is also a restless corner in which only garbage is collected. A corner cabinet will usefully fill it. Structurally, it is more complicated than usual, and the savings in making it yourself will be less. But this will pay off with convenience, especially in small-sized apartments: typical "corners" in them do not add much ergonomics, and non-standard custom-made will cost a lot.

However, the main purpose of this article is not how to snatch here and bite there. There are plenty of manuals for the manufacture and self-assembly of cabinets in RuNet. Up to instructions like: "We take the drill by hand ...". If not with teeth, then it would be necessary to clarify: which one - right or left? Because a person's hands are functionally different. However, the existing publications are written quite conscientiously - each about a separate specific product. There are also very general reviews. But something like a summary of how to design and make a cabinet for your own conditions and requests is not visible. A wardrobe is not a table or an armchair, it requires a lot of space and stands on it for a long time or forever. And besides, it is an aesthetically defining piece of the interior.

In this publication we will deal with how to develop and assemble a wardrobe on our own specifically for our home; it is this approach that will give the greatest savings in both money and labor. Where the cabinet should stand, how much space is there and what will be in it, you decide for yourself, here precise recommendations from the outside are impossible. For the rest, so to speak, home cabinetry is carried out in stages as follows:

Determining the size of the cabinet;
The choice of the type of construction based on your requests and available capabilities;
The choice of the type of doors - swing, sliding (wardrobe) or folding;
Selection of material and assembly technology suitable for it;
Selection of filling installation methods (shelves, drawers, hanger bars);
Cabinet design;
Preparing a place for a cabinet, if it is built-in;
Preparation of body parts;
Assembly of the case;
Manufacturing and hanging of doors;
Manufacturing (purchase) of filling modules;
Filling the cabinet.

Dimensions and layout

The general layout of a conventional cabinet cabinet is shown in Fig. on right. Some of the modules, based on the available floor area and ceiling height, may not exist, or it will be, say, not 2, but single-leaf. Nevertheless, the dimensions of the cabinet within certain limits and the principles of its layout must be observed:

Transverse depth (width) - 450-650 mm. Less - the product will turn out to be unstable; more - uncomfortable.
The height of the wardrobe (pay compartment, right wardrobe in the figure) is 1550-1850 mm.
The height of the chest of drawers is 700-750 mm.
The width of the drawers and shelves is 400-450 mm.
The depth of the boxes is 250-300 mm.
The distance between the shelves is 300-350 mm.
Vertical layout: drawers below, shelves above them, and niches above all.

The dimensions of boxes and shelves should be kept within the specified limits. With smaller cabinet capacity, it drops sharply with the same overall dimensions, which complicates it and increases its cost. With large ones with boxes, it is difficult to wield and keep order in them.

Do you need mezzanines?

Mezzanines add a lot to the complexity and cost of the cabinet. But to assemble a cabinet without a mezzanine, you need at least 7 cm between its roof and ceiling, if you use a special tool, and the usual one - from 12 cm. and 10-12 mm. Now let's estimate: a small, 1.6x0.6 m in plan, wardrobe. Take 7 cm to the ceiling, this will come out a little over 67 cubic meters. dm. That is, the capacity of a pair of bedside tables or a children's playhouse, or shoe cabinets, which are also needed in the house. In general, it is better not to be lazy and make a wardrobe with mezzanines.

Design

The general layout of the cabinet allows many options for technical implementation; just look at the trade catalogs. In living rooms, as you know, wardrobes are most often placed, pos. 1 in fig. A classic wardrobe with a mirror, pos. 2. In the nursery, office or bachelor's room - pencil case, pos. 3. If the apartment has a shallow niche, this is the place for the built-in wardrobe, pos. 4. It is especially useful for household items in public areas, pos. 5: there is always a tech, and the riser is changed, or at least the inspection hatch in it is not opened every year or even every decade.

About walk-through cabinets

About corner cabinets, pos. 6 and 7, we will talk in more detail below, but for now we will linger on the walk-through cabinets, pos. 8. Actually, a real walk-through closet is something like a walk-through wardrobe: doors are in front from behind, and the contents are placed on the sides of the aisle. Once such, for the sake of saving space, they were made in hallways, but with the advent of reliable and affordable sliding doors, they began to consider a wardrobe-wall with a mezzanine above the door as a walk-through.

A walk-through cabinet will not only be appropriate in a long narrow room. It can be a key element in the overall layout of your home. Let's say you are sketching a sketch of a future new building. And remember that the size of the house in the plan depends not only on construction costs, but also on real estate tax and utility payments in the future. Accordingly, the premises for purely personal use - the kitchen, the bedroom, the office - are planned according to the residual principle, as a result of which they go out in tunnels that are extremely small for living rooms in width. This is where the walk-through closet will help out: it will give the room (s) the necessary comfort, and even, perhaps, it will be possible to fence off the dressing room, closet or a small workshop; a wardrobe deeper than 65 cm is not needed.

About corner cabinets

Cabinet, close-fitting outer corner, pos. 1 in the figure, is no different: these are 2 wall cabinets with a stand at the corner. The rack is designed and subsequently assembled last. Structurally, it does not connect with the side sections-wings, as well as the wings with each other.

It's different with the cabinets in the inner corner. If they are not single, then the corner section is designed and then assembled in the first place, and already in it the wings are adapted, and the last - the side post, if any.

Triangular (not necessarily isosceles) cabinet in the corner, pos. 2, this is most often a simple household locker in that very restless corner, in the bathroom or on the balcony. We will get acquainted with a couple of constructions of this kind later.

In living rooms, L-shaped corner cabinets are most often placed, pos. 3, or five-walled cabinets, pos. 4. The L-shaped cabinet is slightly more complicated than usual: there is no corner section as such, and the wings are also connected by an L-shaped rack in section, pos. 4a. However, the L-cabinet is not very convenient and aesthetic, and the ratio of its capacity to the occupied area is even less than that of a straight wall cabinet.

The five-walled wardrobe is the most spacious of all, especially since very bulky things can be stored in the corner section, practically without taking away excess usable space. It is durable and stable, because its frame is a rigid spatial structure, pos. 4a. The wings of a corner cabinet, without compromising its stability, can be of different depths, therefore, both along the front and in area, it can take up one and a half times less space than a wall cabinet of the same capacity, pos. 4b. And if a five-walled wardrobe in the bedroom, then in one corner only 2 pencil cases are placed with everything necessary in this case, pos. 4c.

However, a five-walled cabinet, firstly, is more laborious and requires more precise cutting of parts, which is especially important when making them independently. Secondly, when designing it (see below), you need to take into account some nuances regarding the doors of the central section.

Take a closer look at how the doors of any cabinet open on hidden hinges. When the door is half open, its edge in the hinge extends a few mm beyond the clearance, and the plane of the fully open door again becomes flush with the side wall of the cabinet. If, instead of empty space, there is a wing facade next to it, then the door may rest against it and not open completely. To avoid this, the angle between the facades of the central section and the wing adjacent to the hinges of its door should be at least 135 degrees. Therefore, if you are designing a five-wall with wings of unequal depth, the corner door should open towards the deeper wing. And if the depth of the wings is the same, or the angle with 2 doors, then the corner section should be equal.

Finally, occasionally trapezoidal cabinets are made, pos. 5. They are complex, material and labor-intensive, and their capacity relative to the occupied area is record low. Trapezium cabinets are made only when the passage behind the cabinet turns out to be unacceptably narrow and needs to be somehow expanded.

Note: special case - radius cabinets, see fig. on right. They are not only original and elegant in a modern way, but also durable, roomy and less obstructing the aisles. But their design is not for an amateur and not even for every mid-level salon.

Plinth or legs?

How to put the cabinet - directly on the floor, on the plinth or on the heels (legs)? On the floor is the easiest, but it must be perfectly flat and strong, for example, laid on a flowing leveler with a laminate on a backing without lags. The plinth is quite laborious and requires extra boards, but it gives the cabinet strength. The bottom of the cabinet on the heels, so that it does not sag, must be thick and durable, which can cost more than the material on the base. Therefore, it is recommended to make a cupboard on thrust bearings only in the kitchen, grocery pantry, etc. premises where, as they used to say in the old days, mundane backbones - cockroaches, mice - can start. It is very difficult to survive them from under the base.

What are the doors

If the room where the wardrobe will go is spacious enough, then the best option for its doors is swing doors. They are simpler, cheaper and more reliable than sliding ones. There is only one subtlety: take hidden hinges not mortise, as in factory cabinets, but overhead, see fig. In production, they are less technological and cost-effective, because a backing block is required, but it is much stronger than mortise and it is not necessary to select a hole in the side walls with a cutter.

However, not everyone lives in mansions, therefore sliding doors for a closet are most common. In general, they open less often than interroom ones, they do not slam drafts, and only a bump with a little bump go through the closet into the wall, which does not care what kind of doors there are or whether they exist at all. Therefore, cabinet doors can be made lighter, and the presence of a threshold does not affect the convenience of using the cabinet.

There are dozens of manufacturers of sliding door mechanisms, each produces several systems and is trying to bring something new to the product so that it can be more elbowed in the market. In the assembly instructions they write what exactly this product is good for, and, as a rule, they do not lie. But comments, they say, our product is more suitable there and that, but if there, then it is better to contact the competitors, of course, do not wait. Nevertheless, simple general rules for choosing a cabinet door mechanism can be drawn up, especially since there are no cardinal differences in quality between them.

First of all, for a wardrobe door, you do not need to take expensive mechanisms with a free bottom edge of the door sliding in a shoe or along a ridge, see fig. These suspension systems are designed for heavy interior doors and require ceiling alignment. In addition, the bottom of the door leaf in the first case is abraded; in the second, it is prone to breakdowns. Protective pads / gutters are sold as an option and the prices are, to put it mildly, strange. Other mechanisms are suitable for the cabinet, and here the choice depends on the door.

Just doors

If the doors are solid wood or made of laminated chipboard, and the cabinet is on a plinth, then the sliding mechanism is more suitable frameless, because it is cheaper and easier to install doors with it. The cheapest of these is with an upper suspension (upper travel, upper rail) pos. And in fig. Until recently, they were considered unreliable: from the push, the doors on the upper passage fell inward. But literally over the past 2-3 years, the upper course has been seriously improved and the most flimsy of the current ones can withstand a blow on the facade from 45 kgf. This is stronger than the plop of a street bully or the push of the butt of an overweight, tipsy guest.

For the same doors in a built-in closet, a system with a lower support (lower rail), pos. B. Here, first, it is better to take a system with separate guides (tracks), pos. B1. Paired tracks require assembly precision that is difficult to achieve at home and are designed for boards of strictly defined thickness. This makes it difficult to design the cabinet and the overspending on material may be greater than the savings due to paired tracks.

Further, frameless doors at 4 points of power (tight) contact with the tracks are prone to jamming, therefore, the carriages of the upper rollers (rollers) must be installed quadruple self-aligning, pos. B2. But not any for any door.

Threaded fasteners in wood sits tighter when wrapped around the fibers rather than across them. In laminated chipboard, on the contrary, self-tapping screws / confirmations are more securely wrapped in a layer, and not in an end. Therefore, wooden doors are hung on end rollers, as in pos. B2. If the doors are made of laminated chipboard, then the rollers need to be taken on pins, i.e. L- or U-shaped brackets, like the lower rollers in pos. A.

Note: for a door on end rollers, a decorative strip covering the rollers and the top track is desirable. But in the hallway, it can be superfluous - the slot at the top will provide ventilation for the closet with damp outerwear.

And, finally, the lower rollers should be, firstly, adjustable in height, taking into account not only the unevenness of the floor, but also the drying out of the door leaf. Secondly, the lower rollers, especially if the cabinet goes into the hallway, are needed with a 2-coordinate support-stop surface, i.e. with a flange, like a railway wheel, pos. B3, and steel rubberized; in extreme cases - propylene. Why? Flanged rollers push the dirt out of the track groove by themselves.

Glass-mirror

For a glass / mirror door, the only option well tested in practice is a frame door with a bottom rail made of special profiles, pos. B. How to collect it is described in detail in the company instructions and runet, but something else needs to be paid attention to.

First, make sure that the profile you like is among the recommended ones in the mechanics specification. As a rule, there are no problems here, the production of fittings for glass doors is well developed.

Second, the installation of the mirror / glass, pos. IN 1. It is necessary to use only and only glass of the recommended thickness with complete seals. It enters them rather tightly, but if it got up easily, then it will not be difficult for it to fall out later. To facilitate the framing of the glass (the profiles are put on it) you need:

Work on a flat, smooth surface covered with a dense, clean cloth without scars / seams or with newspaper in several layers. Pros frame mirrors on foam backboards.
Mirror / glass to order with rounding (licking) of the edges. You can also "lick" the ribs with the most abundantly moistened emery bar, having previously drawn a wet cloth along the edge of the glass. You do not need to rub until a visible chamfer appears; it is enough to "shirk" 2-3 times with light pressure so that the rib does not bite the seal.
Before installing the profile, run along the edges of the glass with a clean cloth slightly moistened with any gel detergent for dishes. Soapy solution is slightly worse, dries quickly.
It is necessary to set (push) the profile onto the glass, evenly tapping it along the length with a rubber mallet. It is unacceptable to shove, as they say, using the navel resting against it.

Third, installation and fine-tuning of the upper rollers ("Asymmetric roller" in the figure). That the asymmetry should be on the canvas in one direction, and for the outer and inner flaps in different directions, it is clear. But, pay attention to the inset at the top right: the same screw holds both the frame sections and the roller. Moreover, the screw is self-tapping, it is screwed in once. Assembling the frame "to empty" without a mirror, and its bulkhead after fitting is a gross mistake of amateurs. That's why:

The upper assembly screws are initially under-turned by 3-4 mm.
The installation whiskers of the rollers are inserted under the screw heads and the screws are tightened tightly, but not tightly: if the roller is pulled outward with force, it should "crawl" out from under the screw.
They put the door, check the movement, adjust the lower rollers.
In place, the screws of the upper rollers reach failure.

Glass tree

See what is there on the left in fig. And on the right - how it was done. Not bad, right? This door has not been tested on a suspension, but judging by what it has endured in more than 27 years of operation, it will withstand. With acrylic glass, which was then a rare expensive curiosity, it will hold up for sure. The depth of the groove for the glass is from 3 thicknesses.

The secret, firstly, is in the aquarium silicone. It is much more expensive than construction, but 20 ml was enough for a couple of doors. But its strength is simply monstrous. Take a look at at least a 200-liter aquarium and imagine how much pressure there is from the inside. And the glasses are glued just to the end. Secondly, here the long edges of the glass are reliably covered. It is not so easy to break glass with a direct blow.

Note: before installing the cabinet doors, of course, you need to check and set the rectangularity of the opening. It is inconvenient to use a tape measure, because this is not a basement cast-off open from all sides. A pair of rails with pointed ends, fastened with elastic bands, will help out, see fig. At the first measurement, they make a risk with a pencil (pos. 1), and the divergence of its halves on the second will accurately show the difference in diagonals (pos. 2).

Finally, at pos. G - wardrobe with book doors. The bottom line is that the area withdrawn for opening the doors in terms of the totality of ergonomic indicators depends on the removal of the open door nonlinearly. Therefore, a fold-out door will take up only 1/4 of the floor area in comparison with a swing door of the same width, and its hardware is cheaper than for a sliding door and never sticks.

Material

What to make a wardrobe of? There are 3 options here: laminated chipboard, solid wood (finished furniture boards) and measured sawn timber, i.e. just boards. Let's compare them in terms of cost, complexity and work, strength, durability and aesthetics. We will take into account that the total strength of wood is less than that of laminated chipboard, therefore, we take the thickness of wooden parts not 16, but from 24 mm, and non-planed blanks - from 30 mm; 3 mm from each face will be spent on planing.

Chipboard

About edges

Cabinet parts made of chipboard must be trimmed (edged). Since they do not crawl along their edges with elbows, the cabinets are shredded with a flat melamine self-adhesive edge, 2 mm front edges and 0.4 mm are invisible, see fig. on right. Melamine is a heat-resistant material, and you can shred it at home with a hot iron through a clean thin cloth or, better, a fluoroplastic film. But first you need to find out what will be cheaper: edging along with cutting in a furniture company or an independent edge, purchased at retail in small quantities.

Payment

Chipboard "lives" up to 25-30 years. Then the binder begins to disintegrate, swell, and the ends of the parts take on the form of what is shown in Fig. left. A laminated chipboard sheet 2750x1850x16 mm (5 sq. M and 0.08 cubic meters) of the 1st grade glossy will cost from 4000 rubles; 2-leaf cabinet requires 2 sheets. Textured chipboard without gloss of the 2nd grade can be found from 1100 rubles / sheet, but its phenol emission class will be from E2, which is unacceptable for residential premises.

Cutting sheets according to a drawing will cost about 500 rubles, and about 1000 more for edging parts. We don't count the fittings, they are the same for any cabinet. Total for laminated chipboard for a cabinet for 20 years "like everyone else", about 9500 rubles. Let's add another 200 (this is very godly) for confirms with stubs, since for laminated chipboard, this is the only acceptable option for assembly, see below. In total, about 10 thousand.

Array

Finished furniture boards will need the same 5 sq. m, since they are produced planed with a thickness of 18 mm. Approximate prices for a square of a 600 mm wide board:

Gnarled pine 28 mm (after varnishing with tinted varnish, very beautiful furniture is obtained from it) - approx. 1850 RUB / sq. m, i.e. OK. RUB 9250 on the closet.

Straight-grained pine - 1950 rubles / sq. m and 9,750 rubles. accordingly.

An oak of the same dimensions, 20 mm thick (admittedly, it is durable) - 7500 rubles / sq. m and 37,500 rubles. acc.

The fasteners will take up to 200 rubles, it is wooden, see below. Another approx. RUB 1,500 - for varnish and glue. And the same amount as for laminated chipboard - for cutting, because the material is expensive and it is expensive to learn from it.

It can already be concluded that a do-it-yourself wardrobe should only be made of pine: an array of larch and birch is not much cheaper than oak, and beech, ash, walnut and maple are more expensive. Nevertheless, pine cabinets made of solid wood serve for 100-200 years or more.

Board

Edged boards on the cabinet will go approximately (30/16) x0.08 = 0.15 cubic meters. m. Let's give another supply for amateur processing and take 0.25 cubic meters. m. Pine will cost approx. 5000 rubles / cubic meter m; oak and beech - approx. 24,000 rubles / cubic meter m. per cabinet - approx. 1250 and 6000 rubles. respectively; for fasteners, varnish and glue - as before. case.

There is one more argument in favor of natural wood. Take a look at fig. It is possible to make such doors from laminated chipboard and self-adhesive only in a thermal vacuum chamber, i.e. in production. And from wood it is difficult, but it is possible at home, using a hand router with a shaped cutter, there is a stop. The curves are drawn by applying a template to the corresponding edge of the workpiece. You can also practice cutting / simple carving by buying an extra board, not ruinous. To practice working skills, cheap pine or any wood trimmings will go.

However, making a homemade wardrobe made of boards takes a long time and is difficult. First, the purchased lumber must be aged outdoors under a canopy from autumn to summer. This will be a complete analogue of industrial preparation by steaming up to 100% moisture, followed by drying with superheated steam. Further, the boards will need to be dried in a warm, dry room again until autumn: the cabinet is not a stool, the moisture content of the wood is needed up to 6%.

Then the boards will need to be rallied from the boards, like the tabletop of a dining table, using a homemade edging. They rally on a smooth joint, but not plywood, but of the same tree, or on dowels, see below.

Note: furniture boards need to be purchased absolutely sound, without the slightest traces of rot and mold. Boards bleached with wood reducing agents are not suitable.

Total by material

In general, if you want to make at least some kind of wardrobe in a couple or two days off until you have enough money for good purchased furniture, then the uncontested option is laminated chipboard at confirmations. If you intend to pass on the memory of yourself to your children and grandchildren in the form of homemade furniture (which by that time may become valuable antiques), then you should also consider the option of a wooden cabinet. Moreover, a boardwalk made of valuable species of wood will not cost more than a quick homemade chipboard made of chipboard.

Connections

How to connect cabinet parts? Eccentrics, pos. 1 in Fig., Sweep aside immediately. These are connections of inexpensive quick-assembly / dismountable furniture; simply - consumer goods: they brought in, blinded / inserted, twisted, took the money, washed away.

Thread profile and head configuration of confirmations, pos. 2, specially designed for laminated chipboard; wood on confirmations holds up worse, and laminated chipboard on wood-to-wood joints, see below, is generally very bad. Please note only that, in addition to furniture confirmations with a hex head, there are plumbing, for plastic, with a cross recess. They are not interchangeable!

A special drill is needed under the confirmations, below in pos. 2, for each standard size of these hardware - its own. The holes for the confirmations must be drilled along the conductor, pos. 3, otherwise the likelihood of splitting some of the boards during assembly is very high. The conductor is expensive, for a one-time job it is better to rent it.

It is also advisable to drill dowel holes along the conductor, pos. 4 is the best way to assemble wood furniture. The fact is that the lignin of dowels and boards is gradually welded into a single mass, and the connection on the dowels gains strength over time. Furniture restorers are familiar with this phenomenon.

Note: if the furniture is of this kind that can immediately experience extreme loads (say, a bed), then the dowels are placed with wedging. But we will leave the description of this technology until a suitable occasion.

Ready-made dowels and blanks for them in different sizes are on sale and are inexpensive. They need to be taken of the same kind as the boards to be joined, but harder: for pine - larch dowels, for hardwood furniture, oak. Oak is harvested on oak dowels.

Also, a wide range of dowels (lamellas) are sold for rallying shields from boards, pos. 5. The rules for choosing dowels are the same as for dowels. As for the box connection pos. 6, then you need to learn how to do it if you have conceived a real wooden cabinet for centuries. In other cases, you can get by more easily, see below about filling, especially since the boxes are removable modules, and you can then remake them.

About drywall cabinets

Drywall (GKL) is widely used in construction. But this is a finishing material, not a structural one. Therefore, thinking about the cabinet from the gypsum board, keep in mind:

It will need a complex frame made of special C- and U-profiles, pos. 1 in the figure, and a lot of fasteners.

You will not be able to move this cabinet.

To hinge the doors, you will have to make a wooden frame on the facade, because in the profiles the hinges do not hold and the entire frame immediately leads from using the doors.

Drywall is easily scratched and crumbled, so heavy, hard and sharp objects should not be placed on the shelves.

In fact, a drywall cabinet is used in 2 cases. The first is a radius rack in a room with curved walls, pos. 2, because it is quite possible to make parts bent in one plane from gypsum plasterboard at home. What, however, cannot be said about radius doors, without which a wardrobe is not a wardrobe.

The second is a simple corner cabinet for household goods, pos. 3. For this, the scraps of the gypsum board remaining from the suspended ceiling, etc. will do. With the indicated dimensions, a complex frame is not needed, but if there are doors, then the front frame is still required.

Filling

Boxes

The "real" drawer of the cabinet is arranged, as in the nightstand, see fig., Only the dimensions are different. But at first, so as not to drag out the work, it is better to collect boxes of boxes on confirmations from chipboard, plain polished, without texture, and paint. The decorative façade can then be rearranged to a “correct” drawer of the same size. Or maybe leave it as it is: the thick, strong bottom will allow the use of lower guides with a high bearing capacity.

Cabinet drawers are always used more intensively and are loaded more than in the nightstand; they often put / look for something in the depths. Therefore, you should not put them on homemade wooden guides. By the way, the first attempts to make full removal guides for cabinet drawers belong neither more nor less ... to the 15th century. This is how the seizures and distortions got the furniture makers even then.

Drawer guides are divided into bottom and side, depending on the way they are attached to the drawer. But this division is very arbitrary, since both ultimately hold onto the walls / partitions of the cabinet, which determines the strength of the suspension as a whole. When choosing guides, more attention should be paid to the technological gaps on the sides and between the drawers: the space "eaten" by them significantly affects the capacity and cost of the product.

For the drawers of the kitchen cabinet, which, however, requires a separate discussion, lower guides such as metabox or their analogs are needed. The weakest of them are kept at full range from 20 kg, and there are models for 50-70, even if you dump a bag of potatoes into a box. But metaboxes are by no means cheap, but by default they are supplied with closers, i.e. the extended drawer slides back by itself from a slight push by the hand.

For ordinary boxes, the usual lower roller guides will fit, as, say, for the keyboard board of a computer desk, at the top in Fig. Their closer works quite roughly and a heavy box does not always bring it completely, but they are cheap and hold up to 12-15 kg when fully extended, including the weight of the box.

Boxes for books, tools, etc. it is better to put on Kulkov's ball guides, at the bottom in the same place. They are relatively inexpensive, practically eternal (no plastic parts), do not require technical clearances at the top and bottom, and hold up to 20 kg when fully extended. There is only one drawback: there is no closer.

Shelves

You can't say much about the shelves: the board is like a board. Thickness from 16 mm for laminated chipboard, from 24 mm pine, from 18 mm oak. Chipboard is closed “on the face” with a 2-mm edge, and on the sides and back - 0.4 mm, which must be taken into account when designing. It is not necessary to neglect the edging so that the board does not crumble and dust. But, depending on the general tone of the finish, you can take polished chipboard instead of edging, prime and paint.

There are also only 3 tricks in the shelf holders. First, do not take metal from aluminum-magnesium alloy, but plastic from PVC or polyethylene. The former are fragile, the latter are weak. The second - take it with self-tapping screws. Plug-in on smooth pins will break out of the sockets over time. And the third - for an unpretentious utility cabinet, very strong and reliable shelf holders are obtained from skirting boards, see fig.

Barbell

Now the so-called. end hanger bars, see fig. But, frankly, they are for avid neat people: summer blouses are here, shirts are there, and skirt pants are there and nowhere else. The end rods do not increase the capacity of the cabinet, only it is seen worse where that hangs. And take the usual longitudinal rods whatever you like and your pocket, there are no unusable ones on sale.

Project

Independent design of a wardrobe and furniture in general is not very difficult these days: there are convenient computer programs. Of the Russian-speaking people, PRO100 and Basis-Mebelshchik are popular in free distribution. Both are quite powerful and functional, but the first is more suitable for virtual furniture arrangement in the interior, and the second for detailed design of individual products.

For both softwares there are training videos, they are available in the Russian Internet and separately. But, as with any new software, general ambiguities can arise among experienced users. Namely: where to start, how where to go and where to come. No one has yet invented a uniquely linear system of bookmarks with tools / options. And this is hardly possible for creatures with an intelligence higher than that of a fire pump. For Basis-Mebelshchik, the general wardrobe design instructions look like this:

We enter the overall dimensions of the cabinet according to the measurements on site, this is the most crucial stage;

We set the dimensions of the base, bottom and roof;

We compose the back wall (fiberboard by default) with stiffening ribs (tsars, by default laminated chipboard);

We compose internal partitions, vertical and horizontal, according to the division of the cabinet into sections. What and how much is up to you, not the program;

We make filling with boxes. Shelves, bars, baskets Basis-Furniture-maker does not automatically install, because they are mounted in a ready-made cabinet on site;

We enter the dimensions of the cabinet doors, but they need to be designed separately;

Optionally add mezzanines and open side racks;

We carry edges and accessories to places;

We send for printing drawings and specifications with the exact dimensions of the parts: they are what we need to purchase, order, saw, drill, cut.

Assembly

The production of individual modules has been discussed above in the course of the presentation, so let's go straight to how to put it all together. The assembly of a cabinet from laminated chipboard on confirmations is not technologically difficult and is carried out in the following order:

The bottom and sidewalls are tried on in place: was there an error when measuring the dimensions, pos. 1 in fig.;

Collect the box of the base and put the internal partitions, tk. they are attached through the bottom, pos. 2;

In place (transfer the workpiece carefully!), Put the sidewalls so that the base falls exactly on the floor, pos. 3;

They put a roof on;

They move the cabinet aside, it is already strong enough, and the back wall is sewn up;

Slide the cabinet back into place and assemble the filling;

They take out boxes, shelves, a bar (if it is in pockets, and not fixed tightly), baskets, etc.

Doors are mounted;

Collect and put mezzanines with racks, if any.

Assembling a wooden cabinet on dowels differs in that the internal partitions are placed after the sidewalls, because otherwise, they may break off when the workpiece is moved. And also by the fact that there is enough technical stock under the ceiling for a cabinet without mezzanines: dowel protrusion + roof thickness + (10-12) mm.

Special cases

The first is the entrance hall. The wardrobe is needed, firstly, it is small in width; English halls are not in use here. It is also desirable to combine it with a hanger, then a sliding single-leaf cabinet will be required, see fig. on the right, because clothes will sometimes be hung in it damp and in a deaf box it will soper. You also need more shelves for gloves, hats, scarves, summer clothes, and, of course, shoe. But the boxes may not exist at all.

Schemes of wardrobes in the hallway, swing and sliding, are shown in Fig. The first one is designed for a family of 2-3 people; the second is a bachelor. The depth of the first is determined based on the minimum permissible passage width of 900 mm. If you want to make it sliding, you need to add 170-220 mm to it, depending on the selected door suspension system.

The second is a balcony. It is not worth putting a cabinet there, arranged in a room: it will block a lot of light and dust collectors are formed, see Fig. On the balcony, you need a wardrobe mainly of horizontal modules, or an unequal corner.

A drawing of a cabinet, suitable for extremely narrow balconies of Khrushchev, is shown on the left in Fig., And a corner one - on the right in the same place. The latter will not block the evacuation hatch yet, because is placed in the gap between the fire escape and the wall, which otherwise uselessly takes up space.

Finally

Let's hope that this publication has at least a little clarified for you in detail how to make a wardrobe yourself. And as an example of the general progress of work on the manufacture of a wardrobe, we offer a video. For the rest - good luck, patience, ingenuity, accuracy!

Video: DIY wardrobe assembly