Paving slabs - manufacturing technology at home, from mortar to estimates. Homemade paving slabs: do-it-yourself, the experience of the craftsmen of the portal Do-it-yourself paving slabs

Most often, paving slabs cover yard paths, a place in front of a garage, parking lots, paths, walkways, places for recreation. The paved surface is also well suited for areas where greenery does not grow well. Tiles should be chosen in a color that is in harmony with the overall color of the house and the surrounding landscape. And instead of neutral gray, you can choose brown, black, red, yellow, green or blue. The main thing is to achieve color harmony. So, for example, the numerous use of paving slabs of different colors, especially in a small area, breaks the feeling of a single ensemble.

After selecting the optimal size and color of paving slabs, you need to decide whether you will look for it and purchase it from the manufacturer, or, having the desire and time left, make the tile yourself. Choosing the second path, you will need certain information, tips and tricks. In this review, we will try to pay more attention to the process of giving a certain color to paving slabs during self-production.

Types of dyes for paving slabs

Pigments are used as dyes - powdered substances obtained in various ways. According to the method of obtaining dyes for paving slabs are divided into three types:

• Natural paints are obtained from rock and natural minerals. Raw materials are enriched, heat treated and crushed to a finely dispersed state.
• Synthetic dyes are obtained as a result of complex chemical reactions or the latest nanotechnology.
• Metallic pigments are produced from oxides and salts of non-ferrous alloys and iron.

When choosing the necessary dyes, their main operational properties should be taken into account. Thus, the colored paving slabs made by you should:

• have high heat resistance, resistance to alkalis and weak acids;
• be resistant to light and atmospheric conditions (do not lose color under the influence of light, acid rain);
• be resistant to temperature extremes;
• do not change their properties under the influence of atmospheric phenomena.

Most often, in the manufacture of colored paving slabs, metal coloring pigments are used - inorganic synthetic substances containing iron oxides. Pigments have a high dispersion, with proper use, they are evenly distributed in the concrete mixture with mixing. Iron oxide pigments are inert and therefore environmentally friendly.

Pigments can be produced both in the form of a powder, and in the form of an aqueous suspension and in granular form.

Dosing of pigments in concrete mix

The resulting shade of concrete depends on the amount of pigment and the color of the cement, mineral impurities and sand. The amount of pigment that is added to the mixture depends on both the color of the pigment and the intensity requirement of the resulting color.

Table. Percentage ratio when working with powder and liquid pigment:

Pigment	Powder	Liquid
Red, %	2 — 3	5 — 6
Yellow, %	6	8
Brown, %	4 — 5	6
Black, %	4 — 5	6
Green, %	5	7

Liquid pigments must be added to the dry mix before cement and water are added. It is not recommended to change them in any way by adding other materials and diluting them with water. After adding the required amount of pigment, the mixture is briefly mixed. Then cement and water are added. The preparation of the mixture is completed by stirring.

The following factors can influence the color shade of the manufactured paving slabs:

• amount of pigment. After determining the required amount of pigment by sampling, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the recipe for the entire batch of tiles.
• Cement color. Gray cement has many shades and never gives the opportunity to get a "pure color" of the pigment.
• Water:cement ratio. The water-cement ratio is the ratio of the amount of mixing water in concrete to the amount of cement. Mixing water is all water added to the concrete mixture (water in aggregates, water in liquid pigments, additional water added to the mixture). As the amount of water increases, the color becomes more saturated. When using plasticizers that maintain the hydration of the cement, it is possible to obtain the desired shade without increasing the amount of mixing water and without deteriorating the quality of the concrete.
• Compaction of concrete. Proper compaction results in a richer hue, and vice versa, insufficient compaction causes a decrease in its saturation.
• Influence of additives for concrete. Additives, most often in liquid form, contribute to a better compaction of the mixture, reduce its adhesion to the mold, improve the appearance and physical and mechanical properties of products. The additive manufacturer's instructions must be followed.

Starting materials when using pigments for the manufacture of colored paving slabs

For the production of colored paving slabs with your own hands, you will need:

• Cement M 500 is not older than 3 months from the date of issue.
• Powder and liquid pigments. For powder pigments, storage conditions are similar to those for cement. Liquid pigments must be stored at temperatures above 5 degrees C.
• Concrete aggregates. It is recommended to use dense aggregates of river origin with a fraction of up to 4 mm. Also, screenings with a fraction of more than 4 mm can be used. Fine aggregates and sand can affect the color tone of the final product due to the high content of fines, the presence of which changes the color of the mixture. Dolomite aggregates are not suitable.
• Pure water.

After you have decided on the shape, color, selected the pigment and the necessary components, you can start making paving slabs.

The technology for the production of paving slabs with their own hands has been mastered for a long time and every year everything is being improved. Finished products in terms of their characteristics and quality are in no way inferior to store-bought products, and sometimes even surpass them. So why overpay a considerable amount of money for a pig in a poke when you can make solid paving slabs at home. This does not require the purchase of expensive equipment and tools, of course, if you do not want to produce it on an industrial scale. The key to high-quality paving stones is the “correct” solution and skillful hands.

Paving slab production technology

Despite the simplicity of the production technology, there are some nuances that should be studied before proceeding with the manufacture of tiles on their own. First of all, you need to choose and master the method of its manufacture that suits you.

Vibrocast paving slabs

This technology for the production of tiles provides for a continuously operating vibrating table, on which the sand-cement mixture hardens, laid in special forms.

After full compaction and hardening of the mixture, the molds are transferred to a warm place where they must stand for at least 12 hours.

The finished product is even and smooth. Such tiles are easy to clean from snow and sand. It has a bright, saturated color, and the form of its manufacture is practically unlimited.

For paving paths, it can embody any design idea on your site. Qualitatively laid out tiles can give an accent to any of your buildings on the site, especially since this is an excellent solution to get away from annoying asphalt.

From an industrial point of view, the production of vibrocast paving slabs is a fairly cheap process, perfectly suited for private use.

Vibropressed paving slabs

The manufacturing technology of vibropressed paving slabs is as follows.

1. The concrete mixture is laid on a continuously vibrating frame in a special form (matrix).
2. Then, a special blank (punch) made in the form of a matrix under high pressure, like a piston, begins to put pressure on the mixture.
3. After complete compaction, the die and punch rise up, and the finished product remains on the bed. This method is fully automated and requires minimal human intervention.

The surface of the product is rough and porous. Such tiles are able to withstand heavy loads, are resistant to severe frosts, and are suitable for crowded places and vehicle traffic.

Despite the fact that there are compact installations that allow you to place such equipment on a home site, their cost is still high.

Based on the foregoing, we can conclude that for private needs, vibrocast paving slabs will be quite enough.

There is no need to be able to withstand heavy loads, since neither crowds of tourists nor vehicles will move along it. Therefore, in this article we will consider the manufacture of paving slabs using vibrocasting technology.

Paving slab manufacturing technologies

The expediency of buying equipment or renting it depends on the scale of the planned production.

If you need to cover small areas of your site with tiles, it makes sense to rent the necessary equipment, but if you have grandiose work on laying paved paths, blind areas, various sites, then it makes sense to think about purchasing it. In a word, it's up to each of you.

Necessary equipment for work

It is very difficult to manually bring the concrete mixture to the desired consistency. An alternative is a powerful drill with a special nozzle for mixing the mortar.

However, it is undesirable to work with such a tool for a long time, periodically you need to give it time to rest from the load. An ideal option would be a time-tested electric concrete mixer.

The main element of production without which you can not do. To date, you can buy a vibrating table in any store specializing in the sale of construction equipment.

Their initial price starts from $300. But do not rush, it is very simple from improvised materials. To do this, you will need (an electric motor, a sheet of metal, corners, metal plates and springs).

Local kulibins manage to use an ordinary washing machine for these purposes, setting it to high spin speeds.

Mix molds. You can also make the necessary forms using the material that almost everyone has on the site (plywood, metal plates, gypsum, and so on).

Options for making molds for paving slabs

You can purchase ready-made forms on any construction market, their price is not very high, so this will not significantly affect the budget.

DIY vibrating table

We will describe in stages the manufacture of a vibrating table for future forms. The main task is to get a flat surface of the upper platform. Required material and tools that you will need:

• vibration motor;
• Sheet of metal with a thickness of 5 mm. (upper platform);
• Metal corner or profile pipe (frame);
• Springs (damping);
• Welding machine, electrodes and grinder.

frame

We weld a regular frame of suitable sizes from metal corners or pipes. It is important to ensure that opposite pipes are the same size.

Using the same material, a rectangle is welded. On one side, a sheet of metal is welded onto it, on the other, a reinforced platform for a vibration motor with slots for fastening.

vibration motor

For vibrating tables, it is better to use a platform-type vibration motor. It is installed on a prepared base and firmly clamped with bolts.

Installation

The final step is to connect the platform with the frame, after inserting the springs into the landing bowls between them. The table is ready for use.

The composition of the mortar for paving slabs

The composition of the mortar for the manufacture of paving slabs must contain the following components:

• Cement M-500;
• Seeded river sand;
• Crushed stone (fractions not more than 10 mm);
• fiberglass;
• plasticizer;
• Concrete dye (optional)
• Pure water without impurities.

It should be crumbly without the content of lumps and impurities. Remember that cement is a binder, so the strength of the tile will depend on its quality.

Sand like cement, it should not contain foreign impurities such as clay or algae. There is an easy way to test sand for clay content.

The sand must be tightly squeezed into a ball with the hands, fixed for a few seconds and unclenched, look after its condition. If the sand does not crumble, a clear sign of the presence of clay components in it.

Crushed stone is desirable to acquire a fraction 5-10 mm.

fiberglass performs the role of concrete reinforcement. The most common fiber material is polypropylene. It will not be difficult to purchase this component on the construction market.

The component that gives concrete strength and moisture resistance is - plasticizer. Pigment dye is used as needed.

Important! When mixing all of the above components, a strict dosage and sequence must be observed.

The ratio of components in solution

Components	Proportions in %	For 1 m² tiles	For 1 m³ tiles
Cement (M 500)	20%	28 kg.	490 kg.
Crushed stone (fractions 5-10 mm.)	22%	30 kg.	520 kg.
river sand	55%	73 kg.	1300 kg.
plasticizer	0.5% by weight of the solution	45 gr.	1.7 liters
Dye (pigment)	7% by weight of the solution	650 gr.	9 kg.
fiberglass	0.04 by weight of the solution	55 gr.	0.8 kg.
Water	6% by weight of the solution	8.5 liters	135 liters

How to mix the solution correctly

We mix the mortar for paving slabs in the following sequence:

1. In a drum with a small amount of water (1-1.5 buckets), add a plasticizer and dye;
2. We start the concrete mixer and stir the added components for one minute. From now on, the mixer should work continuously until the solution is completely mixed;
3. Then, observing the above proportions, cement is added in turn, and then sand and crushed stone.
4. Carefully monitor the consistency of the solution in the drum. The solution should turn out to be viscous, but in no case liquid.
5. The final step will be the addition of fiber to the finished solution. Stir for another 2-3 minutes. The solution is ready.

Casting and vibration processing

1. The solution is poured into pre-lubricated (soap or oil solution) molds placed on the platform of the vibrating table.
2. The vibration treatment process must be carefully controlled. As soon as foam forms on the surface, this is a signal that the degassing of the liquid is completed and the machine can be turned off.

This process usually takes 4-5 minutes. It is impossible to overexpose the solution on the bed, the process of its stratification will begin.

Some people wonder why the vibration treatment of the solution is needed, why it is simply impossible to pour the finished mixture into molds.

The answer to this question lies in the tiny air bubbles that are in the hardened concrete. In severe frosts, they contribute to the splitting of paving slabs.

Drying and stripping molds

In summer, drying of castings should last at least 24 hours, in cool weather at least 2 days. In order for the tile to come out of the mold more easily, it should be immersed in a container of hot water for 10-15 seconds. The molds are well washed with water and they are ready for work again.

Important! It is not recommended to put freshly cast tiles into work immediately. To gain strength, it must be kept outdoors under the sun for another week. Only after that the paving slabs are ready for use.

If you have decided to make paving slabs with your own hands, then we hope that this article will be a good help and help in your work.

• Homemade tiles from Kostya9
• Homemade vibrating table and homemade tiles from Commander

Homemade tiles from Kostya9

Kostya9 Member of FORUMHOUSE

To implement the idea, specialized network resources were studied on the topic of forms and the portal forum, on the topic of the process itself - the necessary equipment, raw material base, production technology. As it turned out, plastic and other forms are available, whatever you want, the main materials were left over from the construction site, and the existing units require a relatively simple, feasible refinement. Unforeseen complications arose only with the purchase of the five hundredth cement - due to the low demand from local merchants, it simply was not there, so I had to go to a neighboring town.

Manufacturing

To make the tile as strong as possible, a circular saw was remade under the vibrating table - the working surface was replaced by a heavy plate (with springs from nine racks), and a vibration motor under the plate. A typical concrete mixer for mortar preparation, ready-made polymer molds, with an imitation of the surface of sandstone, for drying - an old refrigerator, placed sideways.

The ratio of the proportions of concrete was also selected on the forum.

In addition to the existing screenings, washed river sand and purchased cement of the desired brand, a plasticizer was required for the tiles, the choice fell on SP-1. This is a universal additive that improves the characteristics of the mortar, its use increases the mechanical strength of concrete, reduces the number of pores on the surface, gives smoothness and increases the vibrating efficiency. Although it was dreaming of colored tiles, the cost of dye and white cement, in order to obtain a rich color, made it necessary to make do with a natural, gray tint.

The batch proportions are as follows:

• Screenings (crushed stone fraction 0-5) - 38 kg (three ten-liter buckets);
• Sand (river, washed) - 18 kg (one ten-liter bucket);
• Cement (M-500) - 17 kg (fourteen liter bucket);
• Plasticizer - 80 grams per batch (diluted with a liter of warm water);
• Water - 8.5 liters (if the weather is hot, another 0.7 liters).

Mixing technology:

• Screenings (all) are put into the concrete mixer first;
• Water pours in;
• Added plasticizer;
• The mixture is thoroughly mixed;
• Added cement;
• Thorough mixing again;
• Added sand;
• Last mixing (if necessary, water is added).

The consistency of the solution is quite thick, reminiscent of wet earth - this is a conscious choice, although many prefer to work with more fluid solutions.

Kostya9

Liquid concrete that liquid mud– no strength.

Forms previously lubricated with engine oil (in the corners, with a brush) are placed on a vibrating table. Filling with a solution should be uniform.

Processing time - from three to seven minutes. Vibration should not only compact the mixture, but also expel air bubbles from it. In the process of processing, the forms are interchanged and rotated around their axis - so that the impact is uniform. As it shrinks, the mortar is added until the mold is completely filled, you can slam it with your hand to ensure that there are no voids left. From the vibrating table, the forms are sent for more than a day (25-30 hours) to the dryer. On the advice of the participants in the branch, the old refrigerator, also known as a drying chamber, was turned from its side, onto its "back", which greatly simplified the process of laying and removing the product.

After this period, the finished tile easily comes out of the mold due to lubrication, and thanks to ongoing hydration processes that keep the raw material hot. If you overexpose the tile and it cools down, it will be more difficult to get it out of the plastic - you will have to pour boiling water over it so that the plastic expands. However, if you overdo it not for a couple of hours, but for a couple of days, and it has time to completely cool down, it will be difficult to take it out, even using boiling water.

Having stuffed his hand on a square tile, the craftsman moved on to figured tiles and decided to use chromium oxide as a dye.

The first test of adding the dye according to the norm, at the rate of 1% of the binder (170 grams per batch), practically did not give a result. It was not a color that appeared, but a light, almost imperceptible shade, so the dosage was doubled, which gave the desired green. Like a plasticizer, the dye was previously diluted in water.

Homemade tiles from Commander

Commander Member of FORUMHOUSE

He covered both the barn and the yard with tiles of his own manufacture, paths to the greenhouses too. Very good and profitable!

And in this case, a homemade vibrating table was used. Here's the "recipe" for anyone interested:

• Motor - from a washing machine (on rubber shock absorbers);
• From her - a pulley for a belt drive from the engine to the eccentric;
• Eccentric - the former rotor of the electric motor: cut off by a grinder 1/3, a cage for bearings is machined, holders are welded, the whole structure is screwed to an iron sheet;
• On top of the sheet / table - wooden flooring 60x60 cm (for tiles 50x50 cm);
• High sides - so that you can make tiles 6 cm thick.

For household purposes - paths to the barn, in the garage, along the edges, the Commander makes large, square tiles measuring 50x50 cm, and for decorative paths resembling sidewalks - figured. The forms, as in the first version, are polymeric, soft - unlike hard plastic ones, they do not break for several years.

The composition of the solution and the proportions for batching:

• Gravel - a bucket;
• Cement - a bucket;
• Screening - 3 buckets;
• Plasticizer - 2/3 cup;
• Water.

Water is poured into a working mixer, a plasticizer is added, gravel is next, after gravel is wetted, cement is added. When the mixture becomes homogeneous, screenings are added. The commander does not add sand, as there is a large amount of dust in the screening, which replaces it and prevents the formation of voids. Forms before use are lubricated with palm oil, as they become dirty, they are easily washed with Karcher. But they become contaminated if the technology is violated and the tiles do not withstand the prescribed day, so it is better not to rush.

You can’t do without garden paths on a personal plot or cottage. If we talk about garden paths more specifically, then their types and the material from which these paths are made are determined not only by the function, but also by the style of the site or garden.

Often, designers recommend equipping paths on the site, combining materials of different textures. The material for garden paths can be natural stone, gravel, paving slabs, paving stones, wood. The easiest way is to make garden paths from ready-made paving slabs, but making paving slabs with your own hands is much more interesting. By skillfully supplementing such home-made paths with appropriate plants, you can make them very original.

Why make tiles yourself: the benefits of handmade

You are a creative person, you have original ideas, then making paving slabs with your own hands is the process for you. The process is simple and affordable, even if there are no special skills in the construction business.

What does it give?

Firstly, by creating paving slabs with your own hands, the result of your work will be an exclusive version of the track.

Secondly: the technology of production of paving slabs sustained by you is a 100% guarantee of its durability.

Thirdly: if you like tinkering, learning new technologies, you will get a lot of positive and pleasure.

Fourth: in addition to the pleasure received from work, a significant amount of money is saved.

How to make paving slabs yourself

So, it was decided: we make paving slabs for the garden path with our own hands. Let's start with the acquisition of the necessary tools and consumables.

The following tools are needed for work: a drill with a mixer nozzle, with which we will stir the solution, a trowel for leveling. If you have swung at the manufacture of a large number of paving slabs, you can purchase a vibrating table. It makes it possible to distribute the solution in the forms more densely and evenly, since the concrete mixture in this case spreads into all the cracks under the influence of vibration. But, it is quite possible to do without it.

To make paving slabs with your own hands, you need to pick up molds. Their configuration and size will determine the look of our paving slabs. Molds can be bought at the store. And you can do it easier - use ready-made plastic containers in which food products are sold. We choose those containers that do not crunch - these are fragile, but soft and flexible. They are much stronger and can withstand several fills, so they are perfect for making paving slabs with your own hands.

Do not choose containers with intricate shapes. Putting it on will be very difficult. In order for individual paving slabs to fit well with each other, we give preference to containers whose sides are 90 degrees to each other. Tiles with even sides are easy to lay, the gaps between them will be minimal. Garbage will not accumulate in the gaps, so sweeping such a path will be easy and simple.

By the same principle, you can choose forms for borders.

We make a path from concrete forms

The process of making such a track is quite simple. First you need to prepare the formwork. Its size can be 35x5 cm, height 6 - 7 cm.

The way to make a track is quite simple. First of all, we prepare the place where the tiles will be laid. We remove the grass and all the irregularities, expose the formwork-form and fill it with mortar, compact it tightly and level it with a trowel. After a few days, we rearrange the form further and repeat the process in a new place.

The gaps between the "pseudo-tiles" can be filled with sand or poured with more liquid colored concrete. In this case, the track structure will become stronger. If such a path is planned in the garden, in the gaps between the tiles you can not fill it with mortar, but with soil, into which grass seeds are then sown.

Production of paving slabs imitating stone

To date, ready-made polymer molds for casting paving slabs that imitate the laying of natural stone have become very popular. These forms differ in configuration and size. Moreover, the configuration of the forms allows them to be stacked in several rows, that is, it makes it possible to adjust the width of the track. With the help of such forms, you can create not only a path, but also a pavement for a patio and a gazebo. To make the work process go faster, it is good to have a set of 2 - 4 forms.

The technology for manufacturing paving slabs in this way is similar to the previous method. If you do not want grass to grow between the tiles, after removing the sod, the soil must be lined with geotextiles. And only then form a pillow of sand and gravel. A form is laid on a compacted pillow and poured with concrete mortar, it is well compacted, the surface is leveled with a plank. After a few days, the form is moved to another place and the process of pouring paving slabs continues. The finished tile must be moistened to avoid cracks. If the path is in a sunny place and the weather is dry and hot, it must be covered with plastic wrap to avoid rapid evaporation of water.

When can you walk on this path? First of all, you need to make sure of its strength: 3-4 weeks after pouring, hit the tile with a hammer. If there is no trace of the blow, you can walk along the path.

Materials for creating paving slabs

In order for paving slabs to serve for a long time, it is necessary to prepare a solution as a rule. The materials included in its composition must be of high quality. First of all, this applies to cement. Do not save on its quality and quantity. It is from cement that the strength of paving slabs most of all depends. Therefore, it is best to take grade 500 cement, although some amateur builders recommend grade 300. If you consult with experienced builders, then everyone will unanimously say that the quality of cement has become worse. It is better not to take risks, so as not to stumble later on the path, crumbling right before your eyes.

The second component that is necessary for the manufacture of paving slabs is sand. It must be sifted to remove dirt - leaves, grass. Sieve cells should not be small. If small pebbles come across in the sand, do not remove them. The quality of the concrete will not suffer, and the tile will turn out to be more textured.

Another component of the solution is water. It also has its own requirements - it must be clean, not stagnant or sour.

If you have a desire, you can make the track colored by adding the appropriate dyes to the concrete solution. We choose pigments that are resistant to alkaline environment, to atmospheric phenomena and light. All these qualities are possessed by inorganic pigments. In order for the color of the concrete to turn out to be pure, ordinary gray cement must be replaced with white.

General instructions for making tiles

1. We prepare a container for preparing a solution (it can be a bucket or a plastic basin), as well as a measuring container. Pour cement - 1 part and sand - 3 parts into the mortar container.

2. Slowly pour in water while stirring the solution. The consistency of the finished solution should not be liquid, it should be pasty and not slip off the trowel.

3. In order for the tile to move away from the mold more easily, the inner surface of the mold can be lubricated with any oil.

4. We fill the prepared forms with the prepared solution. We tamp it well and compact it with a trowel. If the tile is made on a vibrating table, the solution spreads evenly into all the cracks under the influence of vibration.

5. After leveling the surface with a trowel, our homemade paving slabs are sent for drying. It is best to take a place for drying under a canopy so that direct sunlight does not fall on the tile. If the air temperature is high, the tiles must be moistened with water once a day to avoid cracking.

6. After 5 - 6 days, the tile can be removed from the mold and dried under the same canopy, spreading it on a plastic film. It will take much more time to dry out - up to a month. During this time, paving slabs will gain the necessary strength.

Step-by-step master class on making paving slabs

In conclusion of all that has been written, I want to show you a master class from my neighbor Nikolai, who kindly shared with me the secrets of making exclusive paving slabs.

Nicholas is a creative person. Therefore, ordinary paving slabs did not fit into his concepts. Here's what paving slabs he came up with.

A river flows not far from his house, so he found building material under his feet. Apart from cement, of course. Each time, returning from the river, he brought home, in addition to fish, a bucket of beautiful pebbles. His children, while dad was fishing, turned collecting pebbles of an interesting shape into an exciting activity.

To cast paving slabs, he built a formwork on one large slab and picked up two polyethylene molds, which were equal in size to the width of one side of the formwork.

For kneading, a plastic bowl was chosen. It washes well after the solution. A plastic ice cream bucket served as a measuring cup. He observed the proportions as indicated in the instructions (see above).

The entire process of making tiles took place on a wooden platform.

A plastic film was laid under the formwork. Nikolai lubricated it with used engine oil. The concrete mixture was laid out on a film and evenly, with the help of a trowel, distributed over the entire area, thoroughly compacted and smoothed.

After the stones were laid, with the help of a trowel, they were pressed into the mortar with force. At the same time, the solution was poured into small molds. The tiles were in the molds for 3-4 days, covered with cellophane, because the summer was very hot. In the morning and in the evening it was poured with water so that cracks would not form. As soon as the tile moved away from the formwork, the formwork was removed, and the tile production process continued.

Paving slabs made in this way are stacked in different combinations. It looks quite original and goes well with a stone fence, creating a kind of ensemble.

The production of paving slabs at home does not bring any special advantages to the developer. Without a vibrating table, the quality of curly paving elements (FEM) is sharply reduced. You will have to buy or make a lot of tile molds with your own hands or dry and accumulate finished products yourself for several months to paving one path or parking lot. It is difficult to comply with the composition of concrete, and you will also need a place to store paving stones. But if you are not afraid of difficulties, then welcome.

Independent production of paving stones resembles a miniature erection of a foundation slab into a formwork. Filling can be done in forms created by oneself or purchased in a store.

The easiest way to make the form yourself is from a bar:

Similarly, a Rhombus, Square, Hexagon is created. Factory forms simplify the technology, they are made of several materials:

After calculating how much lining is needed for the track, you can buy the right amount of propylene or rubber molds. You can make your own molds from silicone, polyurethane or two-component polymer resin, having at least one factory paving slab for a sample (master model):

• the composition is mixed in the right amount;
• the master model is placed in a bounding container (for example, knocked down from 4 boards with a bottom);
• a silicone solution (polyurethane or resin) is poured into a container.

Look more clearly in the video:

You just need to change the brick to factory-made paving slabs.

After drying, the form is suitable for pouring several hundred tiles.

Making a vibrating table is much more difficult:

• an eccentric is attached to the motor shaft;
• the drive is fixed on a table with a metal cover;
• mains operated, installed on a solid base, preferably outdoors.

Under normal conditions, concrete dries from 3 days, and molds are needed for in-line production of FEM elements. Therefore, an analogue of concrete steaming technology is used - immersion for several minutes in hot water (within 80 degrees).

Important! It is impossible to dry the tiles in this way, but the speed and quality of hydration (the formation of cement stone) can be dramatically increased.

Mixing concrete

Having decided according to the layout scheme how many whole elements and halves to make, you can calculate the approximate amount of raw materials, taking into account the following factors:

With small volumes, batches can be made with your own hands with a drill with a mixer equipment. If you need a lot of tiles, a concrete mixer and several vibrating tables are used.

Important! Granite or marble screenings, crushed stone in the sand will significantly increase the strength and frost resistance of the tile. If it is planned to produce paving elements with an ornament on the front, it is better to use seeded sand without coarse filler fractions.

Instead of a plasticizer, concentrated detergents (for example, Fairy) are often used in a proportion of 1 tablespoon per bucket of solution. But it is better to use industrial plasticizers, such as C3, sold both in dry and liquid form.

Laying in forms

With known proportions of the components of the mixture, the technology for manufacturing curly FEM paving elements with your own hands is not difficult:

This time is sufficient to remove air from the concrete, uniform distribution of the large fraction of the filler throughout the volume. The vibrating table is turned off after the appearance of cement milk at the surface, the disappearance of crushed stone inside and the cessation of the release of bubbles.

For each tile, you need to dry it, and then use the mold to make the rest of the paving stones. Therefore, an accelerated formwork stripping technology is used - after the concrete has set, the FEM in the mold is immersed in 80 degree water for 5 - 7 minutes to accelerate the curing of the composition.

In hot water, it is easier to get the tiles out of the mold.

The technique replaces steaming, allows you to reduce the hardening time to 1 - 2 days, after which, the paving stones are powerfully laid. On the very first day of FEM production, you can estimate how much paving stones can be made per unit of time.

Advice! To reduce the complexity of the technology, the molds are rinsed with saline - brine. The proportions for its preparation are 30g / 1l (salt, water, respectively).

Colored paving slabs

To reduce the budget for finishing, only a certain part of the tile can be colored. Therefore, before preparing concrete with your own hands, you should calculate how many "halves" and solid paving elements you need to do with your own hands. The pigment is added to the cement-sand mixture during mixing, the main nuances of the technology are:

In addition to increasing the cost of the product, the manufacturing technology does not add any difficulties. The paving slab dries in the same way, the strength and moisture resistance do not change. Experts recommend making rigid concrete with the lowest possible W / C ratio of 0.4 - 0.6 units.

Important! When creating high-quality colored paving slabs, only white cement is used. Conventional gray Portland compounds are not intended for tinting, react with pigment, and can give a "dirty" color.

The economic effect is achieved due to a special technique for the manufacture of two-layer paving stones:

• separately from gray, but at the same time you need to make colored concrete;
• forms are filled with a tinted mixture 1.5 - 2 cm in height;
• kept on the included vibrating table for 20 seconds;
• then the gray concrete of the base layer is poured on top;
• the tile is vibrocompacted for another 20 seconds;
• wrapped together with the form in polyethylene;
• removed for drying for 2 days.

Double layer vibrocasting.

During the specified time, two layers of concrete do not have time to mix completely, but they penetrate each other, becoming a single layer. The front surface receives high-quality coloring, the pigment is saved. You can calculate how much gray and colored concrete is needed empirically.

Luminous paving slabs

Luminous paving slabs are used to improve the quality of sidewalk exteriors. There are elements of paving LED network and rechargeable, luminescent. In all these cases, it is possible to manufacture glowing FEMs with your own hands:

• luminescent paving stones are obtained after staining with a special composition;
• LED lamps with a controller board are placed inside a transparent box of a suitable size or glass block.

Glowing pavement.

Luminous paving stones with LEDs can be made on solar panels or from a 220 V network with a power supply. The specific figure, how much to make luminous paving slabs for the path, depends on the owner of the project.

borders

The necessary spatial rigidity of the “trough”, in which the paving elements are laid, is provided by the curbs installed on the mortar. Making them on your own will help reduce the budget for landscaping. Forms can be bought or designed independently from materials:

• polymer resin - the factory border, which is a matrix, is completely recessed into the diluted mixture;
• lumber - edged or tongue-and-groove board with side jumpers;
• rolled metal - a channel of a suitable section with muffled ends.

Factory molds for the border.

After lubricating the internal surfaces of the form with a soapy solution, used oil, you can fill it with a concrete mixture and make borders according to the technology:

• concrete compaction - baying with a reinforcing bar or laying the form on a vibrating table;
• drying - after demoulding, the finished products are stored with an air gap.

Depending on the air temperature (+5 - + 30 degrees), curbs can be mounted at the place of operation for 4 - 28 days, respectively.

Stormwater trays are built using a similar technology with minor additions:

• the shape is a little deeper;
• a piece of pipe is longitudinally fixed at its bottom, due to which a recess is created.

Without these additional elements, it is impossible to provide a drain in a given direction, the water will destroy the soil adjacent to the sidewalks.

Large-format paving slabs poured in place

The technology of curly paving elements poured in place is placed in a separate category. The form for this paving slab is very large, it is inconvenient to transport finished products. Therefore, they are cast at the place of operation close to each other. The seams are provided by the mold material.

The industry produces molds made of propylene 44 x 44 cm with a slightly modified configuration and name (Mosaic, Garden Road). The declared reversibility of 1000 cycles is almost always observed.

An analogue can be made on its own from a steel corner and a strip according to a propylene sample. In any case, the technology differs from classical paving:

• the form is set in place;
• filled with concrete
• partially bayoneted with fittings or trowel;
• after the start of hardening, the form is removed, mounted close to the previous paving slab.

Such a coating has high adhesion to the underlying layer, but has a large format. In the middle part, the recesses are not through, but only imitate seams. Therefore, they may accumulate moisture and partial destruction of the material when water freezes in winter.

Thus, curly paving elements can be made independently, knowing the composition, and how many tiles of different colors will be needed in total.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and firms by mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.