Spring care for roses at the dacha. Step-by-step care of roses in the spring at the dacha Feeding climbing roses in spring and summer

Ornamental shrubs are planted in spring and autumn. Autumn planting of roses is preferable, but in this case it is difficult to predict the weather. In spring it is easier to get seedlings, so planting roses in spring is used more often.

Planting material

In spring, three types of seedlings are sold.

With bare roots. In this case, already in the store you can select a specimen with a strong root system. An open seedling dries out at home in a matter of days, so after purchasing it, it is placed in water, where it must lie for at least a night, and only after that they begin planting.
Seedlings in bags with roots packed in peat. After purchasing, cut the bag, release the roots twisted into a ring, straighten them with your hands and begin planting.
Saplings in pots. Before planting, the seedling is removed from the container and the soil is shaken off from the roots.

Flower seedlings begin to be sold early in the spring, in February-March, long before the roses begin to be planted in the ground. It is better to store them in the garden until planting. They are taken out to the garden early and buried in light partial shade in a high place, free from melt water. A seedling with unawakened buds in the spring can withstand temperatures down to minus 8 degrees.

Dig a trench and lay the seedlings at an angle of 45 degrees. The entire roots and half of the shoots are covered with earth, leaving only the tips of the branches outside. In spring, they can remain in this position for up to a month. They are taken out of the trench before planting, as needed, and immediately planted in planting holes.

Planting climbing, standard and bush roses in the spring is carried out in the same way. Before planting, the roots of a seedling are cut off (so that they can branch better) and the cuts are freshened. Sometimes the aerial part is covered with wax. It is better to remove it before planting, otherwise it will melt in the bright spring sun and damage the bark. To speed up establishment, seedlings are soaked in a growth stimulant before planting: sodium humate, epine, heteroauxin.

The hole for planting is prepared in a fairly large size, taking into account that the plant will grow greatly in diameter, and it is generously filled with organic matter, since the flowers love good nutrition.
The soil in the planting hole should be rich in nutrients. The mechanical composition of the soil is very important. If the soil is clayey, add a little sand along with organic matter, and if it is sandy, add clay.
It is better to prepare the pit in advance - in the fall or two weeks before planting. It is necessary that the soil has time to settle, otherwise the seedling will be “dragged” deeper. Planting can be dry or wet. In the first case, the roots are lowered into the hole, covered and watered. In the second, the hole is first filled with water, then the roots are lowered into this “porridge” and covered with a dry mixture on top.
In both options, the roots must be spread along the bottom of the hole. After planting, the seedling is immediately watered. If after watering it is “pulled” down, then pull it out a little.
After planting, lightly mound with compost to retain moisture in the shoots until rooting. 10-15 days after planting, the compost must be rake away, otherwise the plant will grow on its own roots. The first buds are pinched off so that the plant, which is not yet rooted enough, does not waste energy on flowering.

As a rule, grafted plants are grown in culture. When planting, the graft should be buried no more than 2-3 cm into the ground. If the graft is at the top, then shoots will shoot up from the roots, which will later turn out to be ordinary rose hips.

Stories about how a rose has been “reborn” over the course of several years are associated precisely with the incorrect position of the grafting during planting. If the grafting is deepened, the bush will grow its own roots and will grow much worse and will begin to freeze.

Important! The graft on a rose is the place on the seedling from which shoots grow.

Rose care

Caring for roses in spring begins with removing the coverings. Opening time depends on the weather. It is impossible to give an exact date; even within the same region, the dates may differ by two weeks. If the plants were covered with film or covering material, they must be removed as soon as possible - otherwise the roses may get wet, which is much more dangerous than spring freezing.

The bushes are straightened and lifted from the soil. If there is white mold at the base of the bush, then there is no need to worry - it will disappear in a few weeks. Snow mold affects damaged shoots - that is, it is not the cause of death, but its consequences.

It is much worse if in the spring fluffy gray mold is found at the base of the bush (it is correct to call it “gray rot”), since it indicates damping off. Branches damaged by gray rot are cut back to healthy tissue, and the core of the bush is generously sprinkled.

Bushes that are slightly covered with mold can be treated with copper-containing preparations: oxychome, copper sulfate. Also, a rotted branch may have an olive color. Over time, such a shoot will either come to life or freeze in growth and dry up.

It is better not to lift standard and climbing plants in the spring immediately after opening, because in the bright spring sun they can dry out in a matter of days - it is better to leave them lying on the ground for another week or two.

Immediately after opening, begin primary pruning. Dry, frozen shoots in winter are cut out with pruning shears. They can be distinguished from living ones by their black color. Having cut the shoot, you need to look at the cut - if the core turns out to be brown, it means that the shoot is frozen, and it is cut to the point where the light core appears.

The shoot may show frost holes - vertical breaks in the bark. If there are few of them, then the branch is left. But if the tissue around the crack has darkened, this indicates that an infection has already penetrated into the wound - then the branch is cut off.

There may be an infectious burn on the shoot - black spots in a crimson border, which in severe cases completely ring the shoot. An infectious burn does not appear immediately, but a week or two after opening the bush. Such shoots are also cut out.

Climbing roses - spring care

Caring for climbing roses that have overwintered poorly involves pruning: all damaged shoots are cut as short as possible using a lopper or pruner. They try to remove everything dead and diseased from the bush as much as possible. Sometimes after spring pruning there is not a single shoot left on the rose. In this case, the grafting site is cleared on the stump by raking away the soil - this is done so that the buds sleeping under the bark wake up faster.

If there are lagging areas of bark on the stump, you can do a kind of peeling - exfoliate them with your hands and pruning shears. After cleaning the grafts, conditions of high humidity are created for the rose to accelerate the growth of buds. To do this, cover the stump with a cut plastic bottle. New buds can wake up even in June, so the bottle is not removed until mid-summer and even until autumn - there is always a chance that the plant will wake up and come to life.

In spring, all plant debris containing pathogens is removed from the flower garden. Spring cleaning of the soil from last year's leaves and branches will save you from many troubles in the summer. It is better not to put collected leaves in compost; they are burned so as not to spread diseases.

In the spring, the soil in the flower garden should be loosened and even dug up with a pitchfork, since during the winter it has compacted and the air exchange in it has been disrupted. At this time, weeds are actively growing, and digging will get rid of them. The Queen of Flowers really does not like competition, so caring for her involves keeping the soil clean.

After the first loosening in the spring, it’s time to feed. To do this, use rotted manure, compost or nitrogen-containing mineral fertilizers. Organic matter or fertilizers are simply scattered over the surface of the soil and loosened again with a narrow rake. Over the winter, the position of the graft relative to the soil level may change and this needs to be corrected: add soil to the stem or, conversely, rake it away.

Many people love roses very much, but not everyone decides to plant them in their own garden. Roses are quite demanding to care for: they require timely pruning, proper watering and soil care. To grow beautiful rose bushes, you need to fight various pests and diseases of this amazing flower. We invite you to find out at the dacha.

Growing and caring for roses at home

To plant roses in the country, you need to decide on the type of seedlings, because not every variety of flowers can grow in the same conditions. After this, the young seedling needs to be properly formed and pruned.

Rose pruning diagram

The formation of a bush begins with the appearance of young shoots; as a rule, this occurs with the appearance of the fourth leaf. In the first year, as soon as buds appear on the plant, they need to be plucked out. This pinching will allow new shoots to develop normally, thereby allowing the bush to form a good shape. Clothes-pinning can be done on almost all types of roses, except: climbing, semi-climbing, ground cover and park roses.

Scheme of formation of rose bushes

After the plant is formed, you need to improve the growth and inflorescences of the rose bush by pruning. This process is carried out periodically, starting in spring. The last time the bush is cut is before preparing for winter.

To form a rose bush and get large flowers, pruning is best done in the spring. You need to cut off all the dead parts to the first intact bud, and also cut out weak shoots growing inside the bush.

Photo of watering a rose bush at the dacha

With the help of summer pruning you can regulate flowering. If a rose produces several inflorescences, then after the first flowering, with proper care, you need to cut off all faded flowers and buds along with the upper part of the stem. As a rule, the segment is counted from the top to the third leaf with a healthy bud. If the bush gives one flowering, then in the summer you need to cut off only the shoots in the center of the plant and the underdeveloped ones. You do not need to cut the entire shoot, but only to the middle, so that two new flowering stems will form on it.

Autumn pruning is carried out before the onset of frost. Weak and diseased stems, unopened buds, flowers and even foliage from the branches are cut off from the plant.

But whenever pruning is carried out at the dacha, you need to take into account the type of rose and its purpose. The plant is cut with several types of tools. If these are thin stems, then you need to use a sharp pruner, but thick branches are removed with a hacksaw. Also, to prune a rose, the weather must be sunny outside, and the cut itself should be treated with garden varnish.

Watering in the garden is also important for obtaining beautiful flowers and maintaining the health of the plant. If it is a young seedling, then it needs to be watered once every two days. But older rose bushes are watered depending on the drying of the soil, but at least once a week. The water should be at room temperature otherwise the roots may lose their ability to absorb water. With proper care, a deep hole for water is made around the bush.

Photo of rose fertilizer

On the third day after watering at the dacha, the soil around the rose needs to be loosened and weeds removed. Do this without much effort, as you can damage the roots. As a rule, the sapa is deepened into the ground no more than five centimeters. To prevent moisture from evaporating from the ground, it needs to be mulched.

Photo of mulching roses

When caring for roses, you can use straw, leaf humus, peat, and manure. Organic material is placed on the ground around the bush in an 8-centimeter layer. The soil is covered with a protective layer in the last days of the second month of spring. Before the next watering, humus materials are not removed; they are mixed with the soil during subsequent loosening.

Interesting video: Caring for roses after winter

When caring for a dacha, roses periodically need to be fed; only young seedlings planted in the ground are not fed in the first year. Plants are fed with liquid, dry and foliar fertilizers. After pinching, it is best to use fertilizers in liquid form and only from organic materials. For example, it could be an infusion of cow droppings or chicken droppings diluted in water. In one season, up to seven feedings are carried out, starting from the end of April and right up to the beginning of September.

Photo of planting rose bushes at the dacha

In order for the rose to receive not just nutrients, but also to absorb them, you need to alternate mineral and organic fertilizers. It is also good to use complex fertilizers; they will promote the growth of roots and stems, prevent diseases and make the rose more resistant to drought. Before the first buds bloom, rose bushes need to receive sodium humite twice.

To ensure that the rose buds are brightly colored and open slowly, the bush can be fertilized with potassium nitrate, then watered with albumin solution or chicken droppings. Before preparing fertilizer from cow or chicken manure, the ingredient must be fermented in a barrel for two weeks and then diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10.

After the rains, the rose is nourished using the foliar method. The leaves of the plant are usually sprayed early in the morning with an infusion of cow dung with the addition of a microfertilizer tablet. You can also use a solution of ash. Dilute two cups of ash in a liter of boiling water and simmer for 10 minutes over low heat. Before the procedure, be sure to strain the solution through gauze.

Knowing how to care for roses in spring after winter, you can grow beautiful bushes of this noble flower with minimal effort. Pruning and fertilizing flowers on time, then your dacha will have the best.

Roses are quite capricious plants. This is why you need to be very careful grow such a culture. Seedlings need to be cared for immediately after the winter months. Spring care includes competent and timely implementation of activities:

Opening shrubs after frost;
Pruning plants from dried branches;
Timely application of fertilizers to shrubs;
Mulching the soil;
Treatment against pests and various diseases;
Installation of supports and special structures for ornamental crops.

Work schedule by month

How and when to open bushes after winter

Caring for roses should begin after winter by removing the covering material. Experienced gardeners remove the material after the temperature has stabilized and the snow has completely melted. Compliance with this condition will prevent shoots from being damaged by frost or damping off.

It is necessary to gradually remove the covering material from the rose bushes. You should start with daily ventilation. It is optimal to ventilate the plants for several hours.

Then remove the cover completely, provided that the soil has warmed up to about a spade bayonet level.

During the first week, as soon as the covering material has been removed, the bushes should be shaded using agrofibre or special films.

The next stage includes drying the soil, which is carried out:

careful unhilling of rose bushes;
not deep loosening of the earth around the bush. This will help air flow better into the root system of the plant;
installation of support and securing plant shoots using trellis structures.

Caring for old bushes

Mature plants need to be carefully examined after winter. All old plants should be thoroughly cleaned of dry branches that have been affected by pests and diseases. Often the shoots can be weakened and frostbitten, so all branches need to be cut back below the part that is affected.

After the winter period, the shoots should be green. The most common hazards located at the base of the plant are:

Mold;
Frost biones are longitudinal tears in the bark;
Infectious burns.

In spring, roses may have frozen, diseased and broken branches. All frozen shoots should be cut off until the middle of the stem turns white. All moldy areas are removed.

After all the affected branches have been eliminated, the bush should be sprinkled with ash.

Important! The main thing is not to rush to trim the shoots with a white coating that are located at the base of the bush. Such spraying under the influence of sunlight will disappear on its own within two weeks.

Be sure to remove all growth that grows below the grafting level. This helps prevent the gradual wilding of ornamental crops.

Mulching the soil after feeding the root system of the bushes is especially effective. The event allows you to maintain soil moisture, improve air exchange and slow down the growth of weeds.

Mulching allows you to loosen the soil less often, which is very important in the autumn. Mulching is carried out using tree bark and compost.

Features of pruning roses in spring

Proper care should include a high-quality process of pruning plants:

In mid-April, all branches broken and damaged during the winter should be removed;
Trim shoots to the level of living buds. Form a symmetrical bush;
Since many varieties of hybrid tea roses can bloom on this year's growth, all old branches should be cut off;
In order to achieve abundant flowering, you should use a combined pruning technique. In the first year, cut off 3-5 buds, and the next year - by a third;
Branches of floribunda varieties that are more than 3 years old must be cut off completely;
If we are talking about pruning large-flowered climbing roses that bloom on last year's growth, then only branches that are older than 5 years should be removed;
Rambler pruning is done as soon as the flowering period has passed. Trimming carried out using the “ring” method. All weak and old branches are removed;
When forming a scrub, young shoots should be cut to a third of their length, and all branches that thicken the bush should be cut off;
For standard varieties of roses, it is enough to do light pruning and remove all frozen shoots.

Many early-blooming varieties of roses, such as greenhouse and English, require pruning in April, before buds have begun to open. Hybrid tea, climbing and ground cover varieties should be cut in May, immediately after blooming.

Pruning is carried out using sharp, clean and disinfected garden tools.

Important! The cut should be made above the bud, which is facing outwards, at a distance of approximately one centimeter. Cutting angle 45°. After pruning, all places where cuts were made must be treated with garden varnish to prevent infection.

Watch the video! Pruning roses in spring

Caring for plants after planting

After the roses are planted, you need to provide the plants with regular watering.

The bushes should be watered in the morning or evening. When watering, the stream should be directed to the root of the plant. The root system should not be allowed to erode.

Daily watering of the plant is necessary in order for the seedlings to fully take root. After this, watering should be moderate but regular.

If the rose was planted in the spring, then pruning should be done earlier. If we are talking about autumn landing, then there is no need to prune after planting. The formation of the bush should be postponed until spring.

All buds that were formed in the first summer are removed - this will lead to the strengthening and proper development of the bushes.

Proper spring spraying

In the spring, after the covering material has been removed, an inspection of the plants is carried out. All bushes should be carefully inspected and areas affected by pests or diseases should be identified. Special chemical preparations are particularly effective. It is recommended to use a solution of copper sulfate for spring treatment. The concentration of the drug should be 1% or 3%. You need to spray both the plants and the above-ground parts of the bushes, but also the soil around them.

To prevent diseases of ornamental crops by various pests, it is necessary to use the following drugs:

"Fitoverm";
"Karbofos";
"Insecticide".

Subsequent treatments should be carried out with a soap solution or a solution based on nettle or ferrous sulfate. It is also recommended to add a little hot pepper to the soap or nettle solution.

Spring subcortex and watering roses

After spring pruning is completed, you need to start fertilizing the plants with nitrogen-based substances.

The most popular drugs:

"Aquarin";
"Kemira-universal";
"Aquamix".

Advice! The absorption of liquid fertilizers is better. They need to be diluted at the rate of 3-4 liters of solution per rose bush. When fertilizing with dry fertilizers, you need to monitor their consumption. It is optimal if there are 35-40 grams of substance per square meter per 1 square meter. m.

Good plant growth is achieved by the combined application of organic and mineral fertilizers. Rotted manure, bird droppings, and humus can be used as organic matter.

At the moment when the bushes are at the stage of forming young branches, solutions based on herbal infusions or manure must be applied. After applying fertilizers, the bushes should be watered abundantly so that beneficial minerals can better penetrate the root system of the crop.

Watch the video! Very effective fertilizer for roses

Mulching roses in spring

After fertilizing, the plants must be mulched. This process is an important component of rose care technology in spring. It helps plants develop and resist many diseases.

Benefits of the mulching process

Will allow you to retain moisture in the soil;
At high temperatures it cools the soil;
Prevents soil compaction;
Preserves useful minerals in the soil;
Protects the root system of plants;
Protects against various diseases and pests;
Improves the appearance of the bush;
Prevents weed growth.

Mulching is a simple and easy process that can be done at any time of the year. However, it is optimal to carry it out twice a year: in early spring and late summer.

Description mulching process:

The soil next to the bushes should be well weeded, all weeds and shoots should be removed;
Cover the soil with mulch to about 4-6 centimeters. It is important that the base of the plant trunk is not covered with mulch;
After the mulch layer becomes humus, it must be mixed with the top layer of soil;
The next layer of mulch is laid on top, and the procedure is repeated.

Agrofibre (Agrospan) for mulching is sold in stores or it can be made at home using pieces of cardboard, sawdust, dry grass, wood chips or hay.

One of the best remedies is compost. It can be made from different ingredients, such as coffee grounds or food scraps. If you use waste from fruits or vegetables, you should make sure that there are no seeds in them. All materials are mixed and left to rot near the roses.

One of the most universal remedies is chicken droppings or manure. Often they are used for mulching. To create mulch, they must be used dry. The disadvantage of using such organic fertilizers is that there may be seeds of other crops that will germinate and interfere with the development of rose bushes.

Preventative treatment

Caring for the crop should be year-round. Fertilizing shrubs in the summer is as important as covering plants in the fall for the winter. No less important is pruning shoots after winter and treating bushes against diseases and pests in the spring. After the bushes have been opened after winter, roses need preventive maintenance. Seedlings need to be treated to prevent infection with powdery mildew, rust, aphids and spider mites.

To treat infections, use the following solution: Take 100 grams of copper sulfate with a concentration of 3% and add it to a bucket of water. Next, spray the bushes and the soil next to the bush.

Conclusion

Rosera growing process in open ground requires a lot of strength and patience. It is important to correctly follow each point of agricultural technology, since each stage of care must be performed with high quality. Caring for roses in spring after winter– one of the main periods when you need to be patient and not harm the bushes.

Beginners who have decided to grow rose plantations on their property for the first time should seek advice from experienced gardeners or look photo And video instructions in the article. A true gardener and rose lover will not regret the time spent growing these beautiful flowers in the country.

Watch the video! Caring for roses after winter step by step

Growing roses is a troublesome, but enjoyable task. Proper care of roses in the spring at the dacha is a guarantee that rose bushes will develop well and delight gardeners with the charm of lush flowers and exquisite aroma.

Perhaps you won’t find a person indifferent to roses. And every self-respecting summer resident will definitely find a place for a couple of queen flower bushes, or even a whole rose garden. But simply planting is not enough. It is necessary to provide timely care for garden roses, from the onset of the first warm weather until the coldest weather. During winter, plants are dormant. In spring, the foundation is laid for the successful development of rose bushes throughout the season. You should consider step by step how to do this correctly.

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Spring activities

The first thing you need to do with the onset of spring and the beginning of active snow melting is to protect the rose bushes in the garden from excess moisture, because flooding can be destructive for them. It is necessary to dig small diversion grooves so that the melt water moves away from the bush.

If wintering took place under shelters, it’s time to remove them. But this needs to be done gradually. As soon as all the snow has melted and stable warmth has established outside (this is very important so that the shoots do not freeze), you should begin ventilating the sheltered bushes. To do this, it is enough to slightly lift the covering material and leave it in this position for several hours. When the soil thaws by about 15 cm, you can partially open the bushes on the north or east side. And after 2-3 days, choosing windless, cloudy, dry weather, conduct a complete opening of the bushes.

The next task is to protect the plantings from sunburn. Therefore, they need to be shaded for several days using paper, thin agrofibre or spruce branches. Then adaptation to the sun will be painless.

Now it's time to clear out the bushes. By the way, in the southern regions, where rose gardens can easily overwinter without shelter, spring work begins from this stage. Wearing gardening gloves, you should carefully rake the soil by hand so as not to damage the young shoots. You can also use a stream of warm water. Then loosen the soil near the trunk, and grease the grafting sites of varietal roses with a 1% solution of copper sulfate.

If there are no young shoots on the bushes, this does not mean that the roses have died after winter. You just need to wait a little, because the shoots may be delayed.

When growing climbing varieties on a site, it’s time to secure them on supports (trellises).

Troubleshooting

After the roses have been opened and unplanted, they should be carefully inspected for freezing, damping off and the presence of infectious diseases.

Frozen branches will be dry and dark brown in color. They are definitely removed. It happens that an overwintered bush looks lifeless. But don’t rush to throw it away: it can grow from the renewal points. So trim the branches and watch the rose bush. It should come to life around May. There is an easy way to check whether a plant is alive or not: you need to move the bush. If it wobbles, the root is dead, if not, it is viable.

It happens that warm weather at the end of autumn provokes sap flow, and the onset of frost causes it to freeze. As a result, cracks from large to minor may appear on the shoots. When sap flow begins again in early spring, the cracks become a favorable environment for pathogenic bacteria to penetrate under the bark. If large cracks are found during inspection, the damaged branches should be cut off, and small frost holes should be disinfected with potassium permanganate or copper sulfate (1% solution). For convenience, you can take a small brush. Then all damaged areas should be lubricated with garden varnish.

Moldiness can be observed in those plants that have not been subjected to autumn treatment. It is necessary to wipe off the mold that has formed and wash the area with iron sulfate or a copper-soap preparation.

Damping off is usually caused by late removal of the cover. This may be indicated by red-brown spots on the shoots, which gradually darken towards the center. Spotting can spread to the entire branch. Infected shoots are cut down to healthy tissue and burned, and the bush is treated with a copper-containing fungicide. This may be copper oxychloride or a similar product. If the bush is completely damaged, it cannot be treated, only uprooted and burned. But shoots with small lesions can be left at least until summer pruning after flowering.

Necessary pruning

Caring for roses after winter includes pruning them. To carry out the work you will need sharp pruning shears, a garden saw and a garden pitcher.

A few important points that I would like to focus on:

pruning is carried out every spring;
it must be performed before the buds begin to bloom;
Stumps cannot be left when the entire branch is removed; they are cut into a “ring” - to the very base;
sections are made at an angle of 45° above the healthy outer kidney by 5 mm;
when forming a bush, 5 strong branches are left, all the rest are removed into a “ring”;
pruners should be disinfected after each bush.

Pruning roses can be sanitary or formative. The first thing to do is sanitary pruning; it consists of removing old (more than 4 years old) and damaged branches, as well as shoots growing inside the bush. The cuts must be coated with garden varnish or brilliant green to avoid infection. You should pay attention to grafted plants: all wild shoots from below the graft are also removed. Then the bushes are lightly hilled and the shoots and the ground around them are treated with copper oxychloride.

The purposes of formative pruning are:

stimulation of active growth;
bush formation.

The timing of this stage of caring for roses in the spring at the dacha may differ for different species. For example, formative pruning of early-flowering varieties is carried out in April before the buds open, and hybrid tea, groundcover and climbing varieties - in May after they open.

Types of manipulations

Pruning can be weak, medium and strong.

For park and climbing roses, light pruning is required: the top of the shoot is cut off, and 7-10 buds are left on the branch. Short shoots will grow from them, which will bloom profusely in June. However, such flowers are not suitable for cutting.

The most common is medium, or moderately short, pruning. 5-7 buds are left on the shoots. Young branches will be longer, but they will bloom later than with light pruning.

With heavy pruning, flowering will begin a month later. Only 2-3 buds are left on the shoots, from which powerful shoots will grow. You should not shorten climbing varieties in this way; they may not bloom at all. But old bushes can be rejuvenated by heavy pruning.

Tips on how to prune different types of roses in spring:

1. Scrub, climbing and park trees need light pruning. In repeatedly flowering climbing varieties, the main (long) shoots are not touched, but the side shoots are shortened, and then only slightly. And once-blooming varieties are generally not pruned in the spring.
2. Floribunda, hybrid tea and polyanthus species are formed using medium and heavy pruning.
3. Standard varieties are subject to thinning and light pruning, and ground cover varieties are subject to sanitary and rejuvenating pruning.
4. Miniature plants are carefully thinned out and the shoots are shortened by 2 times.
5. When pruning remontant species, 6-7 buds are left on the branches. This will allow the plant to bloom wildly this year and give a good increase in shoots next year.

Plant nutrition

How to care for roses after pruning? When the first leaves appear, the plant begins to intensively consume nutrients from the soil. Therefore, you need to carry out the first feeding. How to do it right? Start by thoroughly watering the soil around the bushes with warm water. Then, in a circle, at a distance of about 15 cm from the trunk, apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers. This could be Kemira spring or ammonium nitrate. The standards are specified in the instructions for use and should not be exceeded. Roses are a case where lack of nutrition is better than excess. Then loosen the soil and water again with warm water. Remember this sequence: water - add dry fertilizer - water again. You can pre-dissolve mineral fertilizers in water and then apply them in liquid form.

After a week you need to fertilize with organic matter. Under each plant we pour 0.5 buckets of manure (it should be very rotted) and lightly bury it in the ground. Then we water it.

If it rains after applying mineral fertilizers, the bulk of the fertilizers from the soil can be washed out with water; after 2 weeks, fertilizing with nitrogen should be repeated.

Pink flowers also like foliar feeding with calcium nitrate. You should spray not only the bushes, but also the soil under them. The procedure is carried out when dry, warm weather sets in in the evening.

Rose bushes are fed 2 times a year - in spring and summer (before the second wave of flowering). If young plants are less than 2 years old, they do not require fertilizer. The nutritious soil in which they were planted will provide them with the necessary elements for active growth.

After pruning and fertilizing have been done, the rose bushes are mulched. This is necessary to retain moisture and create an optimal microclimate in the soil. For mulching, you can use rotted sawdust, hay, peat, humus or pebbles. The mulch should cover the ground in an even layer (4-6 cm), but not cover the trunk.

Protection from diseases and pests

In order to prevent diseases and protect against insect pests, roses are treated in the spring with special means - insecticides and fungicides. The first time spraying is carried out 3-4 days after pruning.

Solutions of kerosene (1 tsp per 10 liters of water) and 3% copper sulfate protect well from diseases. To prevent fungal diseases, roses can be treated with Fitosporin or a solution of wood ash in the spring.

The universal, powerful drug RoseClear has proven itself to be excellent. When using it, you can immediately solve 2 problems: protect both from pests and diseases. The frequency of processing bushes in the garden is every 2 weeks. The preparation of the working solution must be carried out strictly according to the instructions.

For spraying, choose a windless day, or better yet, the evening. Don’t forget about safety measures: put on a respirator mask and gloves before starting work.

If you plan to collect rose petals to make jam and for other food purposes, you cannot treat the plants with pesticides. In this case, it is better to turn to folk remedies: use a solution of laundry soap (200 g of soap per 10 liters of water), infusions of nettle and tansy.

Flower care ends with timely watering. Let it not be frequent, but plentiful.

Spring care for roses in your summer cottage may seem labor-intensive and burdensome. But when the roses bloom in all their glory, all difficulties will be forgotten. All that remains is admiration and satisfaction from the work done.

Winter is over, warm days have arrived. The time has come to “wake up” the queen of the garden - the rose. Spring care for roses is a troublesome process, but by doing everything correctly and in a timely manner, you will lay the foundation for their successful development for the entire season.

Spring work in the garden begins with the removal of protective cover at the end of winter. It is important to determine the time correctly. It is necessary not to freeze the shoots, but also to prevent the rose bush from overheating.

We start with ventilation: for a couple of hours during the day we raise the shelter for air circulation. Next, when the ground thaws slightly, open the bush on one side (preferably from the north or east), and after another two or three days, completely remove the cover.

An overwintered bush should adapt to the spring sun and not get burned. The first days it should be shaded with thin material or spruce branches.

When the soil has dried, they begin to unplant the roses. This is done carefully so as not to break the young shoots. For grafted standard bushes, it is important to carefully lubricate the grafting site with a 1% solution using a brush or small cloth.

Spring rose problems and their solution

Having opened the bushes, you should carefully examine them. They may be frozen, weathered or with infectious diseases.

If the branches are dark brown and dry, they are frozen and should be removed. If all the shoots are frozen, do not rush to throw away the bush. The root may turn out to be alive, and sprouts may emerge from renewal buds.

Warm days in late autumn provoke sap flow, and during frosts the sap freezes and causes cracks - from imperceptible to large (about 15 cm). In spring, sap flow aggravates the problem; pathogenic bacteria develop in cracks. It is better to remove large frost holes, and treat minor ones with copper sulfate or a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate. Then seal the wound with garden varnish.

When opening rose bushes, you may find mold. This happens in the absence of autumn treatment. Wash off the fungus, and then wash the infected areas with iron sulfate or copper-soap preparation.

If the cover was removed late, there is a risk of damping off or infectious burns (stem cancer). Red-brown spots appear, which darken in the center. Such branches are pruned to healthy tissue. The plant is treated, for example, with copper oxychloride. When one or two branches are affected by an infectious burn, and the spots are small and not girdling, such shoots can be left and the bush can be allowed to flourish until summer pruning.

First spring pruning and treatment

Continuing the spring care activities, we begin sanitary pruning of the bushes. General rules:

It is necessary to carry out every spring before the buds begin to bloom.
Be sure to use sharp pruning shears.
When cutting off branches completely, you cannot leave stumps; they are removed to the very base - to the “ring”.
The branches are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, stepping back about 5 mm from the healthy outer bud. You need to choose the one that grows outward so that there is no thickening.
When forming a bush, leave about 5 healthy, not old branches, the rest are removed into a “ring”.

Sanitary pruning of roses in the future is the same as for other shrubs:

All dry and damaged branches are cut back to healthy wood, as well as those growing inside the bush.
Old branches (more than 4 years old) are removed.
Be sure to cover the cut areas of large branches with garden varnish or brilliant green to avoid infection.
Secateurs need to be disinfected after each bush.
Wild shoots appearing below the grafting site are removed.
Hilling up bushes.

Successful planting of roses in the spring and care measures are the key to the future healthy beauty of your rose garden. And when the queen roses bloom in all their splendor, no one remains indifferent. All the difficulties and worries about them suddenly seem so insignificant. And everything has been written about caring for roses in the autumn.