How to build a house in the garden. Do-it-yourself country house - a simple step-by-step instruction for stylish summer houses (75 photos)

The topic of this article is the construction of a garden house with your own hands. We have to get acquainted with the main points of the construction of a very specific design - a frame house with insulated walls on a columnar foundation, covered with bituminous tiles.

Design choice

Why did we choose this particular project?

Frame walls filled with insulation provide effective thermal insulation at minimal cost. In addition, they will easily tolerate a slight deformation at.

To clarify: some alternative solutions (for example, sip panels) guarantee better insulation with greater structural rigidity.
However, when using them, the costs that the construction or rebuilding of a garden house will result in will increase markedly.

The columnar foundation again means minimal costs with a small amount of excavation. All alternatives are more complicated and more expensive. Yes, this type of foundation has a small bearing capacity; however, the mass of the frame structure is more than small.
Bituminous tiles, laid on a solid shield, attract with the complete absence of noise in rainy weather. Not only that: the shield under it will greatly simplify the thermal insulation work.

So let's get started.

Foundation

The construction of garden houses, like any other, begins with marking and laying the foundation.

Since the material for sheathing the wall frame will be OSB (oriented strand board), which has standard dimensions of 2500x1200 mm, it will be logical to make the length of each wall a multiple of the smaller of its dimensions: 3.6, 4.8 meters, etc.

The maximum step between the pillars should not exceed 2 meters. This applies not only to the perimeter: internal partitions must be supported by their own props.

After the position of the supports is marked, we proceed to their construction:

We tear off pits about 50x50 cm in size and at least half a meter deep.
We fill each of them with rubble. The height of the bedding is 20 cm.
We ram the crushed stone with a manual rammer.
We form a concrete pad 10 cm thick over the bedding. The concrete grade is M100. With independent mixing, you can focus on the following proportions of the materials that make up the concrete (in terms of one cubic meter):

Strength grade	Cement M400, kg	Crushed stone, kg	Sand, kg	Water, l
M100	210	1080	870	210
M150	235	1080	855	210
M200	286	1080	795	210
M250	332	1080	750	215
M300	282	1080	705	220

We lay out on the cement mortar columns of red brick the size of a brick or one and a half. A piece of 14 mm reinforcement is laid in the middle of the column, on which we will anchor the grillage.

Please note: the height of the grillage (and, accordingly, the pillars) must be at least +25 cm from the ground level.
The columns are displayed in the horizon due to the thickness of the seams.
From above, each column is waterproofed with two layers of roofing material.

Floor

Grillage

The material of the grillage is larch, a wood that is exceptionally resistant to decay. Cross section - 150 mm. The beam is drilled where it will sit on the anchor; in the corners, the grillage is connected in half a tree.

lags

They will be boards 50x150 mm with a step of 60 cm, placed on edge.

The lag material in this case does not matter much: inexpensive pine is quite suitable. Logs can be attached directly to the grillage beam with galvanized corners using galvanized self-tapping screws.

Warming

The construction of garden houses used for living in early spring and late autumn implies their insulation.

It is necessary to insulate, among other things, the floor.

At the bottom of the lag, cranial bars are stuffed.
They are covered with flooring from a board with a thickness of 20-25 mm.
Above - a layer of vapor barrier.
Then the space between the lags is filled with mineral wool.

A waterproofing film is laid over the lags.

The flooring of 40 mm tongue-and-groove boards is laid after the frame has been built.

Walls

frame

Corner posts and upper trim are made of timber 100x100 mm; fastening - already familiar to us galvanized corners. At the time of the construction of the frame, the racks are reinforced with slopes; the structure will reach full rigidity after sheathing. Material for intermediate racks and crossbars - board 50x100.

Attention: window and door openings are tied with a board around the entire perimeter.

sheathing

Sheets of 12 - mm OSB are fastened with galvanized self-tapping screws 51 - 55 mm long in increments of no more than 25 cm. The joints of the sheets should fall exclusively on the racks.

By the way: if you foam the joint before screwing in the screws, the walls will be noticeably warmer.

Warming

The vapor barrier is laid under the insulation from the side of the outer skin; its second layer closes the insulation from the inside after the mineral wool mats are installed spaced between the posts. From the inside, they are sewn up later, in the process of interior decoration.

Roof and attic

On the construction of walls, the construction of a garden house with our own hands does not end: we have to build a roof.

We lay ceiling beams on top of the upper trim (boards 50x100, placed on edge). We fasten them with corners. Step - the same 60 cm as for the racks.
We put rafters from the same board on the corners. We connect each pair of rafters with a horizontal jumper on a hairpin. For temporary fastening of the truss system, we again use jibs.

We construct frames of gables with strapping of light windows and an entrance.
We sew up the roof (including gables) with 15 mm OSB sheets and cover it with a substrate under the tiles.
We cover the floor of the attic on top of the previously laid vapor barrier with a board - edged or tongue-and-groove, depending on whether the attic will be operated.
We install mineral wool slabs between the ceiling beams and fasten the vapor barrier from below with a stapler.
If it is necessary to insulate the attic, we perform similar operations under the roof.
We cover the roof with bituminous tiles. Sheets are fastened with galvanized nails.

The laying direction is from the overhangs to the ridge.

Interior decoration

The traditional instruction for the construction of frame houses is quite standard: the frame is sewn up with OSB both from the outside and from the inside, after which the owner must do the interior decoration.

Most plasters and paints do not adhere to OSB surfaces; the price of specialized primers can plunge even an inveterate optimist into a deep depression.

We will simplify our lives and use plasterboard for wall cladding from the inside. Since the step between the uprights is large enough, it will be necessary to sheathe in two layers with overlapping seams. The pitch of the screws is 15-20 cm, their length is 50 mm; for walls, sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm are used, for the ceiling - 9.5.

Useful: with a two-layer sheathing, you can do without reinforcing the seams with sickle. Cracks can appear only with a serious deformation of the frame of the house.

Exterior finish

It would be strange to build a house - garden or any other, and not finish it on the outside. The simplest solution is to use vinyl siding; it is mounted on a 40 mm thick crate, necessary for ventilating the space behind it. Don't forget: siding lengthens greatly in the summer heat, so its fastening should provide for the possibility of shifting the planks.

Conclusion

Of course, we have described only one of the countless possible designs. For more information on how to build a house in the garden, the video in this article will offer. Good luck!

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Each of us dreams of a quiet and cozy country house, where you can escape from the bustle of the city and just relax. Modern building technologies make it possible to purchase a garden house ready-made or build it yourself. In this article, we will tell you how much it costs to build a garden house, what documents are needed to put it into operation, and whether it is possible to do without them.

Budget option for a country house made of plywood

Plywood garden house projects take less time to build than timber houses. Due to the use of large sheets of plywood for sheathing the structure, they are fastened much faster than wood. With knowledge of all the processes and the availability of the necessary materials, plywood garden houses are built in a week. In general, plywood is the simplest and most inexpensive material. In order to facilitate the construction process, experts offer the following stages of construction. So, how to build a plywood garden house:

foundation support devices;
the construction of the frame;
erection of vertical rafters;
top and bottom trim;
creation of a subfloor using boards with a thickness of 20 cm or more;
exterior sheathing of the house with plywood, ordinary self-tapping screws are used as fasteners;
the interior cladding of the house involves the use of plywood, drywall, chipboard or fiberboard;
for a comfortable stay inside the room, it should be insulated: a layer of mineral insulation is laid between the layers of the skin;
installation of a finishing floor using a laminate board or linoleum;
sheathing of rafters with plywood;
sheathing of plywood with roofing material.

Important! It is possible to move along the frame only after the concrete has completely hardened.

To give an attractive appearance, you can use the outer skin of siding or wooden lining. Windows in the house can be installed from wood or from any other material. The video shows how you can build a garden house with your own hands

Building a house from a bar

The project of a garden house from a bar involves the use of a simple or profiled bar. Country houses from this material can be built both with the help of specialists and independently. The plan of the house from a bar allows you to build various structures. For example, you can make a log house with a veranda or terrace. Before building a house, you need to decide on the type of foundation. As a rule, for houses made of timber, a columnar or tape type of base is used. When designing a small cottage, the best option would be a columnar foundation; for large houses with an attic, it is better to use a strip foundation. The construction of the foundation begins with the laying of concrete slabs on a compacted layer of sand, and lowering it into the ground by 15 cm. When the foundation is ready, a roofing material waterproofing layer is laid on it. Next, the frame is constructed and laid on the base supports. Then install the vertical supports. The photo shows the frame of a garden house made of timber

If you like houses with a veranda, the lower logs are extended to the desired length and installed on additional supports. For flooring, you can use a thick board. When the floor is ready, the walls are laid from the timber. To fix the joints, dowels are used, a new crown is laid after a layer of insulation. Insulation is needed for each layer; jute or tow can be used as a material. Next, we equip the roof. To do this, we install rafters and braces. After everything is sheathed with roofing material, finishing work on the flooring is carried out. As a coating, as a rule, linoleum or board is used. The next stage of construction will be the installation of windows and doors. Outside, the house can be made more attractive with the help of siding or lining. A house built from a bar is quite cheap and warm.

The layout of the garden house and its cost

The construction of a summer house involves the presence of a small and simple building on a garden plot. As a rule, such houses are built in a small area, with one or two rooms, a kitchen, a bathroom, a stove (if any are provided for by the building project). The photo shows standard projects of suburban structures:

If you decide to build a garden house with your own hands, we advise you to choose a small house with dimensions of 4x6 or 6x6. The photo shows a 6x6 cottage

If you like space, you can take a 6x8 house project. The photo shows a project of a two-story garden house measuring 6x8

Such projects can rightfully be considered quite comfortable, cozy and roomy for temporary residence by the whole family. But how much it costs to build a garden house will depend on the materials chosen and the attraction of additional strength. The average cost of an ordinary country house will cost:

building a foundation on your own will cost $ 150, and with the involvement of specialists - $ 250;
interior decoration will cost $ 700;
a house with a frame, ready-made partitions, windows and doors can cost from 3,000 to 4,000 thousand dollars;

Paperwork

When the construction is over, you need to think about the documents. Any building must legally stand on the land, regardless of who built it, the garden partnership or you yourself. To obtain the right to property, the following documents are required:

obtain a construction passport for the development of a land plot. Such a document is issued by the local architecture;
submit an application to the architectural and construction inspection with a notification of the start of construction;
conduct a technical inventory of the building, such work is carried out by professional appraisers who have a special permit to perform such work;
submit a declaration of commissioning of the property;
assign the building its own postal address (addresses are assigned to residential and summer cottages);
pay a contribution for the development of infrastructure, as a rule, such contributions are made either by the partnership or by the owner of the house individually;
obtain a certificate of ownership of the building from the state registration service.

Of course, for a horticultural partnership, such documents are drawn up faster, here the number of participants in the horticultural society plays a role. In addition to the documents described above, there are also requirements for the building itself. The most expensive and difficult is to obtain a building passport, because. There are a fairly large number of norms and building regulations governing the conditions of development. Common building requirements include:

the distance from your house to the next one should be 0.8 m;
the distance to the border of your site should be 1 m;
distance to the street - 3 m;
the distance of the house to utilities and networks is 3 m.

Expert advice! Do not settle for “fake documents”, this will only complicate the situation and lead to unnecessary waste.

As you can see, the construction of country houses is considered simple and accessible to everyone. To fulfill your dream, you need to draw up documents and choose a building project.

The dream of many citizens is a beautiful little house outside the city, where you can escape from the hustle and bustle of the city, hide from the heat, feel the pleasant freshness of the earth under your feet instead of hot asphalt. But just not for everyone these dreams get a real embodiment, it seems that a country house is both difficult, and expensive, and long. In fact, building a country house with your own hands is quite simple.

We plan space

Choosing a place for a future country house is not the time for hasty decisions, because there are not so many places. A well-thought-out competent layout will help to use every piece of land as efficiently as possible. Even though this is your land, you will have to fulfill a number of requirements, maintaining a minimum distance:

from the street - 5 m
from the road - 3 m
from the neighboring site - 3 m

We do not consider the option with a lowland - water will accumulate there. Optimally - the highest place on the site in its northern (north-western) part.

Projects of small country houses

Considering typical projects of country houses, it is easy to see that the undisputed favorite is a one-story building with an attic. This is a time-tested version of a country house, while you can refuse a utility block, because inventory and household supplies can be stored in the attic.

A terrace can be attached to the house - in summer it can be used as a dining room. Two-storey country houses often obtained without actually erecting a “clean” second floor, instead of it attic. Then on the first floor you can plan the kitchen and living room, and the second floor - under the personal space (bedrooms) of the owners.

Advice! You can save a lot on the heating system - even at the most modest prices for the installation of a classic (boiler, pipes and radiators) accounts for 15-20% of the total budget. If you are building a small country house with your own hands, where you intend to live only in the "season" (late spring - early autumn), then you can use electric or infrared heaters to heat it in bad weather.

Prefabricated country houses are becoming very popular - unpretentious, outwardly monotonous parallelepipeds with roof changed architecturally interesting buildings, with an improved layout, one / two floors.

You buy a kind of building kit, such a country house is easy to build, having only basic knowledge about construction. The main thing is that it already provides for all systems - electrical wiring, ventilation, air conditioning, plumbing. This will help to avoid many mistakes that beginners make when they decide to build a country house with their own hands.

A collapsible country house is designed for a long vacation with family or friends, it is larger in area, it can be one or two floors, with an improved layout. Such a house is equipped with a technical room, a kitchen, rest rooms and a bathroom, equipped with a heating, ventilation, air conditioning system, supplied with electricity.

The house can be equipped with a water heater, sink, countertop, hanging shelves, shower cabin necessary plumbing. After installing such a country house, no additional repair work is required, it is completely ready for operation.

Laying the foundation

The choice of the type of foundation is directly related to the choice of material from which the house will be built, as well as the number of storeys. Light houses (from rounded wood, beam, frame houses and modular) can be built on a columnar or screw foundation, heavy (brick, aerated concrete, stone, concrete blocks) and two-story houses will require the laying of a strip foundation (as an option - prefabricated, from reinforced concrete blocks) around the entire perimeter and under the bearing walls of the house.

It is important to know the depth of soil freezing - the foundation should be laid below this level, taking into account the level at which groundwater occurs.

In the basement, it is required to equip waterproofing at a level of 0.2-0.5 m from the ground. If the soil is dry enough (sand), a cement-sand screed 2-4 cm thick can be made as a screed. For wet soil, roofing material will need to be laid on top of such a screed - in two layers. Alternatively, roofing material can be glued onto a dry screed using hot mastic. Waterproofing is arranged below the expected level of laying beams for the floor.

Advice! In the basement, to ensure ventilation of the subfloor, small holes are made, which are covered with a protective mesh.

A blind area is created around the basement, its width is at least 70 cm (it should protrude further than the overhang of the eaves), which has a slight slope directed from the walls of the house. To do this, the top layer of the earth is removed, clay (sand) is poured, on top of it - a layer of gravel (gravel, broken brick) and poured with concrete (rolled up with asphalt).

Floor and walls

Flooring begins with laying the log. To insulate the floor between the lags, a heater is laid, on top of which a vapor barrier is laid out. It is attached to the lags with a stapler, the joints are glued with adhesive tape. Then a subfloor is laid, for which an unedged, cheapest board is used, having previously treated it with a remedy for dampness and decay. And then they spread the finishing floor. In a two-story house, the ceiling beams of the first floor serve as a frame for the floor on the second floor.

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Today, building technologies offer the construction of garden houses not only from classic materials (log, cinder block, brick), but also to use plywood sheets, OSB, aerated concrete blocks, foam blocks, timber, etc. as the main building material.

But it is plywood garden houses that have excellent soundproofing and heat-insulating characteristics, along with ease of work and inexpensive construction costs.

Another advantage of this construction is the ability to make a house out of plywood with your own hands. This allows you to significantly reduce the cost of attracting professional teams. However, it must be borne in mind that garden houses made of timber and plywood have some drawbacks, for example, the vulnerability of the latter to aggressive actions of the external environment. Accordingly, it is necessary to take additional measures to protect this building material, and this, in turn, increases costs.

Also, plywood is an unsafe building material for the inhabitants of the house in terms of the penetration of intruders. Therefore, when building a garden house from timber and plywood, external finishing work is required, for example, sheathing with siding, which, in addition to decorating, also hides the main material used in construction from prying eyes.

Country houses are built using frame technology, which is gaining more and more popularity in many countries of the world. This due to its main advantages:

But the wood that is used to build the house (boards for the roof sheathing, bars for the frame of the walls) must be dry, and the plywood sheets must have a minimum of chips along the edges. In addition, all wood materials are additionally subject to processing with special compounds that can provide the required fire safety, as well as protect against moisture.

Construction of a frame plywood house divided into the following steps:

foundation construction;
construction of the wall frame and plywood cladding;
roofing device;
warming;
finishing works (internal and external).

Gallery: garden house (25 photos)

Tools

To build a house for you you will need the following tools:

Foundation laying

A massive foundation for a frame small garden house is not required, but for this the house must be made with strict adherence to all technologies. Reinforced concrete foundation blocks, a strip foundation with a recess, stuffed piles - all these types of foundations are suitable for starting the construction of a frame house. Usually, a tape type of foundation is used.

With significant differences in relief, it is best to use a pile foundation. This will make it possible to level the structure of the house and avoid distortions with minimal consumption of building materials and normal strength of the base.

Materials required to organize the foundation of a plywood house:

crushed stone, sand;
concrete (ready-made or its constituent elements: fine crushed stone, cement, sand);
pipe for floor ventilation;
reinforcing bars.

Before starting construction, you need to independently mark the territory and, with the help of pegs and a rope, mark the boundaries of the future structure. It is best that the place where the house will be installed is leveled. According to a given contour, they dig a trench with a width no more than 60 cm with a depth of 70 cm. This depth is enough to provide the required reliability and strength for a frame house. The bottom of the trench is rammed, then covered with a layer of sand and re-tamped.

Then a layer of fine gravel is poured and rammed. Such a pillow will evenly distribute the load and be able to provide waterproofing of the lower layer of the base. To improve the density of the pillow during the compaction of crushed stone and sand, a small amount of water is used. After that, you need to build a formwork, which can be made from boards, fixing them to each other with jumpers on nails. It is possible to prevent concrete leakage during the pouring of the foundation by using plywood sheets 7-8 mm thick as formwork.

After the foundation has dried and the formwork has been removed, these sheets can be used again. The height above ground level of the strip foundation should be approx 45-50 cm. In order for the formwork not to lose its shape during the pouring of concrete, the upper elements are interconnected by transverse rails.

The reinforcement is laid both across the formwork and along. Moreover, it is necessary to leave the ends of the reinforcing bars above the level of the foundation for the subsequent fixing of the frame. In several sections, a pipe is inserted into the formwork, the length of which is equal to the width of the foundation. This creates sufficient ventilation for the floor.

Then the foundation is poured with a ready-made concrete composition or crushed stone, sand, cement are kneaded into proportions 2:3:1 with water. During pouring, you need to tamp the solution a little to prevent the appearance of voids. The surface must be smoothed with a trowel or a rule so that the top layer of the base is as even as possible. When the foundation hardens (approximately one week, taking into account the depth and weather conditions), further construction can begin.

Frame and cladding

Then, in order to build a country house from plywood with your own hands, you need to assemble the frame. Frame construction is a step-by-step implementation of the following stages of work:

Warming

Do-it-yourself garden house insulation options.

Intra-wall

Styrofoam coat

Styrofoam brand C25 and more used for exterior wall decoration.

The foam is fixed to the cement adhesive, while the adhesive beacons can compensate for the unevenness of the wall surface. For additional fastening of the plates, plastic dowel-umbrellas are used.
The same cement glue is applied on top of the foam plastic with a wide spatula, then reinforcement is recessed into it - a fiberglass mesh with a cell size of 3x3 mm and a density of at least 170 g / sq.m. The mesh is glued with an overlap of strips of 70-80 mm.
Then the mesh is covered with a layer of glue so as to hide its texture.

Subsequent finishing - at the discretion of the owner of the house. As a rule, the walls are finished with decorative plaster or painted with facade paint. Instead of polystyrene, glued mineral wool boards can be used. At the same time, they are much safer in terms of the spread of fire, however, they will cost much more.

Ventilated facade

If the vapor permeability of the walls is most important, then a ventilated facade is being made:

A crate is constructed on the walls (using a galvanized profile or timber).
Mineral wool slabs are inserted into the spacer between the elements of the crate or under it with fixation by dowel-umbrellas.
From above the heater is closed by a wind-shelter membrane.
After the facade is sewn up on the crate with siding.

Roof

For frame houses, light materials are used to cover the roof: corrugated board or soft tiles.

To the top rail truss beams attached, which are placed according to the level and are additionally fixed with jibs. The step between the beams should be no more than a meter. Then they make a crate with boards. The distance between the boards will depend on which roofing material is chosen. When soft tiles are used, the step between the boards of the crate is made small.

Then, when the crate is done, you need to lay a waterproofing layer. For which the roofing material is quite suitable, which is overlapped, the joints are fastened perpendicular to the crate and the roofing material is laid.

Finishing

Since the main material for the construction of a frame house is plywood, then interior and exterior decoration necessary. As an external finishing material, siding is best suited, which does not weigh the walls of the house much and is easy to install. A variety of textures and colors also speaks in its favor. In addition to siding, you can use wooden or plastic lining for external work.

For interior decoration materials can be decorative plaster, wallpaper, paint, tiles. But for applying certain finishes, you will need to install drywall sheets.

The presence of a garden house on a suburban area allows you to use it for permanent or temporary residence, storage of various accessories or a full-fledged reception of guests. Also he can serve as a base for the construction team in the case of the construction of a large cottage. And the most important thing is that you can do it yourself without the involvement of specialists, you only need attention, patience and compliance with all recommendations.

Our step by step instructions We will divide the construction of a frame house into several stages:

It is worth noting that each stage of the construction of a frame house deserves a separate article, in addition to everything, if you describe all the possible options for foundations, roofs, etc., you can get a whole book. In this regard, to improve readability, some steps in construction are described in detail in separate articles, but here - only what concerns the features specifically. frame house.

Step number 1: Preparatory work for the construction of a frame house

The preparatory work for the construction of any house is the same and includes:

Site preparation
House layout

Site preparation

First you need to clear the site of vegetation, if not all, then at least the place where the house will be built. This will greatly facilitate the markup and make it more accurate.

If the construction site has a large slope, then, depending on the type of foundation and desire, it can be pre-leveled on the horizon using special equipment.

Attention! Do not neglect this procedure, spending 1-2 hours on clearing, in the future you will greatly facilitate your work, and measurements in the grass can be with a large error.

House layout

Marking is a very important stage, because the layout and evenness of the corners of the walls depend on it. With inaccurate markup, it will be very difficult to correct this error in the next steps.

Marking the foundation of a frame house, as well as any other, as a rule, includes a preliminary placement of pegs (all external walls are marked), as well as marking all internal walls.

If you want to know how to properly mark the foundation for a house with your own hands, and so that all walls and corners are even and in line with the project, I advise you to read my article about this. Given the large amount of information, I had to take it out separately.

Step number 2: Do-it-yourself foundation for a frame house

The great advantage of a frame house is that almost any type of foundation is suitable for its construction. The only limitation is the type of soil on the site and your capabilities.

It is worth saying that laying the foundation for a frame house with your own hands deserves separate topics of discussion and is included in separate articles. Moreover, there are several types of suitable foundations, and which one to choose is up to you.

Here I will briefly talk about suitable foundations for a frame house, and about the cases in which each of them is used, as well as give links to their detailed description.

The most common type of foundation for a frame house is a pile-screw. This is practically the easiest and cheapest option for such a house, especially since it is not difficult to install a pile-screw foundation with your own hands.

Such a foundation is suitable for almost any soil, except for rocky ones. Particularly well suited for swampy soils, where dense soil rocks are deep and other types are very expensive.

In general, all the pros and cons of pile-screw foundations are discussed in another topic that will help you decide on the choice of support for your home.

Shallow strip foundation

Shallow strip foundation, also used for construction quite often. This is due to the relatively low cost of laying it, as well as the possibility of using concrete floors in the house.

Such a foundation, due to its relative fragility, requires precise adherence to the laying technology.

As a rule, a shallow strip foundation is used in good soils, and is strictly contraindicated on soil with a very high level of groundwater and swampy soils.

Slab foundation for a frame house

Recently, a slab foundation is gaining more and more popularity for the construction of a frame house with their own hands. Despite its low cost, it has obvious advantages, such as versatility, reliability, durability, and it can also be used as a subfloor in the house and not be spent on it separately.

Often, instead of a classic monolithic slab, a slab foundation with stiffeners is used. This allows you to save a little on laying, and also strengthens the entire structure as a whole.

Step number 3: Do-it-yourself frame house flooring

The floors in a frame house are not much different from the floors of other types of houses and can be wooden or concrete. The choice depends entirely on the type of foundation, capabilities and desires.

In this step-by-step instruction, we will consider in detail only a wooden floor, concrete - in a nutshell, since it is used less often, and it is not possible to fit everything in one article.

Concrete floor installation

It is worth noting that the concrete floor in the frame house is arranged, in cases of a slab foundation, or a strip one. Everything is clear with the slab - the slab itself will be the floor of the first floor.

But if the foundation is strip - the concrete floor is made of lightweight concrete, such as expanded clay concrete, for example.

Wooden floor installation

Let's look at the device of a wooden floor using the example of a pile-screw foundation. For a tape, in principle, everything is done in exactly the same way, with the exception of the lower trim, it can be from a thinner beam. But first things first.

Tying the foundation of a frame house

The device of a wooden floor begins with the binding of the foundation. As a rule, the strapping is made of timber 150x150 or 150x200, depending on the thickness of the wall and the distance between the piles. The greater the distance, the thicker the beam must be to avoid sagging.

The strapping is necessary, firstly, in order to give rigidity to the foundation, and secondly, to evenly distribute the load on the foundation, and thirdly, it will serve as a support for the future floor of the frame house.

In order to easily carry out the strapping process with your own hands, we divide it into several stages:

The beam is laid out along the perimeter of the foundation, the length of the walls and diagonals are checked. At this stage, the final and accurate marking of the walls is carried out, according to the project. By the way, do not forget about the waterproofing, which we put under the harness in the form of roofing material.
The next step is to outline the points of joining the timber, they should be located on the pile, as these will be the weakest points that should not “hang”. This applies to houses whose walls are longer than the length of the purchased beams.
The beam is joined with an overlap of 20-30 cm, as shown in the photo. To do this, the so-called "locks" are cut out from the end.
The corners are joined in almost exactly the same way. This is clearly visible in the photo.
The beam is attached to the foundation with bolts or studs. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes, both in the head of the foundation and in the beam itself. For ease of further installation, protruding parts - bolt heads or nuts with studs - must be deepened. The joints are additionally punched with nails of 150 mm or 200 mm, depending on the size of the beam.
Once the perimeter is ready, we move on to the final step - tying the foundation under the inner walls of the frame house. This bar, to the already installed outer one, is attached in the same way. For reinforcement, you can additionally apply mounting metal corners.

When the binding of the foundation of the frame house is ready, we proceed to the next step in our instructions - the construction of the floor frame.

Floor frame in the house

It is worth noting that already at this stage it is desirable to provide for all communications entering the house, such as water and sewerage. Electricity and gas can be supplied later, but if everything is foreseen in advance, there will be much less problems later.

The next step is to install the lag, on top of the harness. If the distance between the supports is about 4 meters, then it would be better to use a beam measuring 100x200mm or 100x150mm. You can use a board 50x200mm or 50x150mm, stitching them in two.

If the distance is less than 3 meters, you can use a board with a size of 50x150mm or better 50x200mm.

Installing a log is a simple step in assembling a frame house, but there are some nuances that need to be provided for in this manual:

Do-it-yourself waterproofing and insulation of the floor of a frame house

It is worth noting that waterproofing, as well as vapor barrier, should be installed with an overlap, according to the instructions for the material, while eliminating the ingress of moisture into the insulation, both from the outside and from the inside. And the insulation itself fits tightly, without cracks.

So we reviewed the instructions for arranging the floor of a frame house, now it's time to start on the walls.

Step number 4: Arranging the walls of a frame house

The next step of our instructions will install the walls with your own hands. Just like with the floor, we will fasten all boards and beams with nails and (or) mounting metal corners, some fastenings can be made with studs.

It should be noted that almost the entire frame is assembled from a board measuring 50x150mm or 50x200mm, depending on the required wall thickness and the required thickness of the insulation.

Some people think that it would be better to install a beam at the corners of a frame house, but this is not entirely correct, and why - a little later, during the installation process, I will tell you about everything.

So, let's start assembling the frame of the walls of the future house.

For a better understanding and assimilation, we will divide our instructions for arranging the walls of a frame house into several stages:

Assembling the walls of a frame house. Windows and doors
Installation and fastening of walls vertically in place

Assembling the walls of a frame house with your own hands. Windows and doors

We will assemble the walls on the finished floor of the frame house, this is the most convenient option. But it must be taken into account that in this case, it is necessary that all dimensions are accurate so that the walls do not turn out to be longer or shorter than the already arranged floor.

To understand what I'm talking about, first look at sectional wall of a frame house and then I'll talk about everything in order.

Now we will analyze step by step how to assemble all the walls of a frame house with our own hands:

First of all, we need to decide on the height of the ceiling in the house. Let's say that the height of the draft ceiling will be 280cm. This means that the vertical racks of the frame walls should be 280-15 = 265 cm. The diagram shows where 15 cm came from.
The distance between the uprights, as a rule, is chosen based on the width of the insulation sheet, as a rule, its width is 60 cm. If the insulation is on a cotton basis, then the distance is 2 cm less for closer contact.
The top and bottom boards of the wall are laid out on the floor and the places where the vertical posts will be nailed are marked. Then the racks themselves are laid out and pierced with nails 120-150mm. You can additionally fasten them with corners.
It is worth noting that each wall will be less than the thickness of the wall than the length of the floor. This is clearly visible on the diagram.
If the length of the wall is greater than the length of the board, then the wall is assembled from several parts. This is also done in cases where there are few helpers, because the whole assembled wall will have a lot of weight.
As a rule, jumpers are mounted between the racks to stiffen the entire structure. There are no strict rules on the number and frequency of installation, it all depends on the length and height of the walls, but usually they break through one or two per gap between the racks. The second option is better and is visible in the photo, in the case when they break through one at a time - they are mounted in a checkerboard pattern (one at the bottom, the next at the top). This can be done later, when the walls are installed. Most often, jumpers are made with the expectation that they will serve as a joint for plywood or osb-boards, depending on further work.
Window and door openings in the wall of the frame house are arranged as shown in the diagram.
This is what it looks like in real life.

The most common mistake when assembling the walls of a frame house is that many people forget to take into account the thickness of the board in the calculations, thus the wall is not as long as we would like.

Putting the walls in place

It is worth noting that when assembling the walls, it is necessary to use a cord, pulling it from one corner to another, otherwise, the corners will be even, but the walls will not.

Upper harness and structural reinforcement

So, the wall frame is assembled, now it is necessary to make the upper trim from the same board as the walls.

The upper trim is necessary, first of all, for a stronger adhesion of the corners, and also gives unity to all parts of the frame walls and distributes the load between them.

To do this, it is necessary to pierce the board with 120-150 mm nails over the walls, around the entire perimeter, including internal bearings, so that all joints are blocked with an overlap of at least 25-30 cm. Except for corners where the overlap will be equal to the wall thickness.

The next step in our instructions will be to strengthen the entire structure as a whole. There are several options, the most common is reinforcement with plywood or OSB-plate.

As a rule, having broken one side around the entire perimeter (internal or external) with sheets of OSB-plate, the frame of the house already becomes very rigid.

Internal partitions of a frame house

The device of internal partitions is almost no different from the device of external walls, except that they have softer requirements in terms of thickness and insulation.

Internal partitions, unlike external walls, can be made thinner. Everything will depend on preferences and comfort for soundproofing.
The insulation, inside the partitions, will serve, first of all, as a sound-absorbing material, rather than as thermal insulation.
It is allowed to insulate internal partitions without waterproofing and vapor barrier materials.

These are all the main differences between the internal walls and the external ones, otherwise they are arranged in exactly the same way.

Step #5: Frame House Roof

The roof of a frame house is practically no different from the roof for other houses, be it concrete, brick or any other. I will even say more, the installation of a roof for a frame house will be less laborious than, for example, for a block or brick house, because its fastening to the walls will be much easier.

It is worth noting that the construction of a roof is a very responsible process, but if you do not have a complicated layout of the house, then you can easily do it yourself.

Building the roof of any house, including a frame house, is a very big topic, where there are many nuances. Firstly, there are many types of roofs, and it is not possible to describe everything in detail in one article. And secondly, in order not to confuse you, I, perhaps, will transfer this topic to a separate article.

Step number 6: Warming the frame house

So we got to the final stage of building a frame house - its insulation. Everything needs to be insulated - the floor, walls and ceiling.

You can read more about insulating a frame house with your own hands in another step-by-step instruction, here we will discuss only general points.

When choosing a heater for the walls of a frame house, it is necessary to take into account not only the characteristics of the heater itself, but also the features of the tree, with which not all types of insulation will interact well.

Here is a small instruction for warming a frame house with your own hands:

Outside, over the OSB sheets, a special waterproofing membrane is stretched. Which side - should be in the instructions for it.
Inside the house, between the racks, insulation is laid, in several layers, depending on the requirements for the house and the thickness of the wall. Each layer is laid with an overlap on the joint of the previous one in order to avoid cold bridges.
Floor insulation works in the same way.
It is better to insulate the ceiling from the attic, after filling the vapor barrier film from below onto the ceiling beams and hemming them with a board or plywood.
After laying the insulation, it is necessary to fill a vapor barrier film on top of it, it will protect the insulation from moisture from the inside.
Depending on the needs and further finishing work, sheathing material is stuffed on top of the film on the walls - a board or slats, but most often - OSB sheets, on top of which, in the future, a fine finish is carried out.

As you can see, there is a lot of text. But, I believe, all stages of construction have been described in detail here. do-it-yourself frame house, despite the fact that some points have been moved to separate topics, but this is only for your convenience.

I hope that by following this step-by-step instruction, you will be able to acquire a warm, cozy and reliable home without much difficulty and at minimal cost.