Build a permanent greenhouse with your own hands. Proper arrangement of the greenhouse inside – comfortable work and rich harvest

Building a greenhouse of the optimal shape and size, selecting high-quality durable building materials is only the first stage in growing greenhouse crops. Arranging the inside of a greenhouse is a very important process and requires close attention. Having studied the basic rules and recommendations, you can learn how to use space efficiently, organize comfortable beds and create conditions for caring for plants.

Basic rules for arranging a greenhouse

The internal arrangement of a polycarbonate greenhouse can vary significantly in structures of different shapes and sizes and in those intended for growing different crops. The first thing you need to decide is how the planting will be done: in the ground or in pots on racks.

Types of interior design of a greenhouse

Arranging a greenhouse involves the following key points:

watering system. For this, you need to prepare water intake points, of which there may be several for large-area structures. You can also connect drip irrigation to facilitate the maintenance process;
ventilation. In the greenhouse you need to install several opening vents or windows. It is easy to make opening sections from polycarbonate, which will allow access to a large amount of fresh air. Ventilation serves as a preventive measure for many diseases to which plants grown in greenhouse conditions are susceptible;
heating. Warming up the greenhouse can be done in several ways: electric heaters, water or electric heated floors, water heating, infrared equipment, heat pumps, air heating (potbelly stoves, buleryans). Almost all of the listed types warm up the air inside the greenhouse, and only a warm floor also warms up the soil.

In addition, it is worth considering how the planting will take place: in beds, in pots, etc. It is possible to combine two methods: arrange a garden bed inside and create several stationary shelves, for example, for growing seedlings. Subsequent arrangement is made based on these parameters.

Important! Some crops, such as strawberries, can be grown on racks in plastic bags filled with soil. This not only saves space, but also makes maintenance easier, since there is no need for weeding.

Arrangement of beds and paths

If there are beds in the greenhouse, you need to make one or more paths. To do this, it is necessary to compare the dimensions of the structure and think over their most rational location. For a standard rectangular polycarbonate greenhouse of small size, for example, 2 * 6 m, it will be enough to have one path in the center from the entrance, and place beds on both sides of it. At the same time, the width of the latter should ideally be 80-100 cm, but no more, otherwise the maintenance process will be difficult. The width of the track can be any, based on your own needs. Usually, on average, they adhere to the parameter 40-50 cm, since a smaller size will create inconvenience, and with a larger size, the path will take up extra space, which is better allocated for planting plants.

Planning beds in a greenhouse

A larger greenhouse may have three or more parallel beds with passages between them. If the greenhouse is square or has another non-standard shape, which can easily be made from polycarbonate, you can arrange the beds above the walls. From the entrance you will need to draw a path to the center and a slightly smaller one deep into the beds.

sprinkle with gravel, crushed stone;
lay out with stone, brick;
cement;
lay out paving slabs, etc.

The beds are usually located at a height from the level of the paths (up to 30 cm). To prevent soil from spilling onto the latter, the beds need to be fenced off. The easiest way is to lay boards. This can be done in any way. For example, you can make a small depression, insert a board sideways and dig it in. Another method is done this way:
1. Drive small but strong pegs along the path;
2. Insert the board so that it rests on the pegs;
3. Install additional spacers on the other side of the board.

Arranging beds in a greenhouse

In any case, the wood must first be treated with antibacterial and antifungal agents to reduce the likelihood of rotting. The sides can also be made of brick, curbs or other more reliable floors can be laid.

The arrangement of the beds itself occurs in several stages. The initial layer should be made of drainage, which will help retain moisture. It is sometimes poured onto a layer of film, which creates an additional barrier and helps retain heat and moisture in the soil. Soil is poured onto the drainage. Typically, fertile, saturated soil is chosen, which will need to be additionally fertilized with mineral or natural substances. For some plants, turf is better, for others - sandy loam soil, so you need to lay the soil that is optimal for a particular crop.

Important! If a warm floor is installed in the greenhouse, it must be laid under all layers of the bed, including drainage. Under the heated floor pipes, it is necessary to lay a layer of thermal insulation, which can be polystyrene foam or foil film. They help retain heat inside the soil without letting it pass deeper.

How to set up a rack greenhouse

Plants are often grown on racks in polycarbonate greenhouses. This allows you to significantly save space by placing several tiers and increase productivity per 1 sq.m. In this case, the arrangement of the greenhouse inside will be significantly different. First of all, you should prepare the floor. The main requirements for it: able to withstand significant weight, be smooth and durable. Therefore, it can be laid with tiles or bricks, filled with concrete, etc. Moreover, if the racks are massive and spread over the entire width of the greenhouse, their legs can be cemented into the floor to give the structures greater strength. If there are several small shelves in the greenhouse, for example, for seedlings, this will be superfluous.

Greenhouses equipped with shelving

Racks can be built from wood, pre-impregnated with special solutions, metal corners or profiles. Height and width are selected according to individual needs. They depend on the height of the person providing care and the characteristics of the crops grown. It is not recommended to make many shelves, otherwise plants located at lower levels will receive less light. The topmost shelf should be placed no higher than a person’s eye level, or better yet, a little lower, so that without a ladder or stand you can reach the opposite edge of the shelf. Sometimes the top shelf is made higher to store inventory or some improvised materials on it. On average, for a greenhouse 2 m high, it is recommended to make structures with 3-4 shelves, depending on the height of the crop being grown. A rack for seedlings can have 5-6 shelves.

Rack for growing seedlings in a greenhouse

It is better to place racks along the walls so that the plants get as much light as possible. It is necessary to leave space for passage between rows of racks. Its width should be 40-50 cm. If you make it yourself or buy ready-made racks on wheels, you can move them inside the greenhouse. You can also turn them over with the opposite side facing the transparent polycarbonate wall so that the seedlings grow more evenly and receive the same amount of light.

An arched greenhouse is often made from polycarbonate. Arrangement inside it occurs in the same ways as described above, depending on the placement of plants.

For a large greenhouse, especially a heated one, it is recommended to equip a kind of vestibule. It will serve as an obstacle to cold air entering the greenhouse, and also perform a practical function: you can store tools, equipment, fertilizers, and pest control products in it.

Greenhouses equipped with vestibules

If you are thinking about how to arrange a greenhouse inside, it is worth considering every nuance. This will determine how well the cultivated plants will feel in such a greenhouse.

Beds and their features

When landscaping a greenhouse, it is important to think about the presence of beds. If the structure is small, the path should be laid exactly in the middle. This will allow you to place the beds on its two sides. The path should have a width of approximately 500 millimeters, but you can choose this parameter yourself. When thinking about the features of this element of the greenhouse, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the conditions there will be characterized by high humidity. Therefore, it is important to cover the surface on which you will move with materials that have anti-slip characteristics. Brick, gravel or sand are often used for this.

Path fencing

Before you start, you should think about what kind of fencing the paths will have. To carry out these manipulations, boards can be used, which must first be treated with an antiseptic composition. The sides of the bed should be given a height of within 30 millimeters. This will be enough to protect the path from the ground.

Self-preparation of soil

If you want your cultivated plants to feel good, you can prepare the soil yourself. To do this you need to use one of the existing methods. The first involves the use of one part of fine sand, the same amount of earth, as well as three parts of humus and five parts of peat. Lime must be added to the resulting mixture. In this case, it is important to maintain the proportions, which include the use of 3 kg of lime per cubic meter of soil.

If you are thinking about how to equip a greenhouse inside, then the soil can also be prepared by mixing peat in two parts, cow manure in one part, and finely chopped straw, which is taken in one part. Minerals will need to be added to the resulting mixture. For 1 cubic meter of composition you will need 300 grams of urea, three kilograms of superphosphate, and two kilograms of sodium chloride. Experts advise laying the soil in such a way that its height is 1/5 higher than the final height, this is due to the fact that the soil will shrink.

South wall color

Another important addition to the greenhouse will be the construction of a southern wall. In order for it to attract more sunlight, it must be painted black on the inside. If the greenhouse has a transparent southern wall, then a transparent protective screen is also installed in front of it. It should be pre-painted black.

Shelving arrangement

If you are faced with the task of “how to arrange a greenhouse inside,” then it is important to think about the issue of having shelving. Their design features are also important. However, there is no specific height that should be adhered to. In this case, you need to be guided by your own growth. It is important to think about where to place the elements. In order to make it convenient to care for plants, you need to correctly calculate the width. For those located in the center, access to which will be provided from two sides, the width should be 1500 millimeters. As for those racks that are installed along the walls, their width should not be more than 950 millimeters.

Choosing material for making shelving

If you are thinking about the question of how to equip a greenhouse inside, photo examples can be seen in this article. It is important to choose the appropriate material for them before making racks. If the greenhouse is made of polycarbonate, then wooden or metal products can be installed in it. However, each type of such designs will have its own pros and cons.

Features of using wood

If you do not know how to arrange a greenhouse inside, it is recommended that you examine the photos in our material in detail. By choosing wood, you provide comfort to the plants, since this material has excellent heat capacity properties. This option is best suited for growing heat-loving crops. As a disadvantage, fragility can be highlighted, however, to level out this property, the racks can be treated with protective compounds. During operation, such products will need to be looked after, periodically tinting them. If you are not afraid of bulkiness and weight, then you can consider lumber for making greenhouse elements.

Use of metal

If you are thinking about how to arrange a polycarbonate greenhouse inside, then you can choose metal shelving to save space.

Among other things, they are much more compact and lighter. Steel structures are more durable, they do not require constant attention, and they have high rigidity with a small cross-section. The latter circumstance is especially important for plants that do not like shade.

Construction of a quarantine zone

A quarantine zone can be set up in the greenhouse. It is necessary when it is necessary to isolate some cultures from others. This need arises when growing seedlings in pots and purchasing new, young plants. In order to exclude the possibility of disease transmission, it is necessary to enclose the main room with glass. This area may be quite small, just large enough to accommodate about four pots of seedlings. An excellent option would be to use an aquarium that has flat walls. It is best to place it on a rack. A homemade box, for the manufacture of which you need to use the same material, is also suitable for this. It is important to complement this design with a tight lid.

Layout for greenhouses of different shapes

Before you set up a polycarbonate greenhouse inside (3x6 meters - approximate size), you need to pay attention to the shape of the roof. If we are talking about a gable structure, then it is best to plant tree seedlings in such greenhouses. At the same time, when planning the beds, it is necessary to place a wide one in the center, while there should be narrow passages on the sides. If you “settle” the seedlings in the central part, this will prevent them from coming into contact with the walls and roof.

If you don’t know how to arrange a greenhouse inside (dimensions 3*6), then it is important to pay attention to the design features. In the case of an arched roof, it will warm up faster; this feature must be taken into account. It is recommended to grow flowers and vegetables in such structures. The beds must be installed in the amount of 2 pieces, which are located near the walls, while the path will run in the center.

Geodesic roof

In this design, the widest and main bed should be located along the walls of the dome. She should be given 1.2 meters of space. There should be a passage in the central part. If you are faced with the question of how best to arrange the inside of the greenhouse, then you need to take into account all the recommendations described above. As for geodetic greenhouses, the path should be wide; this parameter can be 1.5 meters. It is important to install high and strong enough sides that you can even sit on. If space allows, you can install another bed after the passage.

Conclusion

Every summer resident is interested in the question of how to properly equip a greenhouse inside. It is important to take into account the location of the greenhouse in relation to the cardinal points. It is recommended to use ultraviolet light to its maximum benefit. However, it is necessary to arrange the places for planting plants in such a way that it is convenient to care for the crops.

Let's imagine that you poured an excellent concrete foundation, built an arched frame from galvanized metal profiles according to all the rules, installed polycarbonate on the structure, and as a result you got the best greenhouse in the world. But it's outside. What about the filling?

The equipment of the greenhouse from the inside also determines the quality and quantity of the future harvest, therefore, this event should be treated with due attention.

The arrangement of the greenhouse inside can be done in two options. Let's consider each of them separately.

Ground-type construction

First of all, the data regarding the number of beds on which, in fact, your vegetables will grow is clarified. This decision is made not only on the basis of the owner’s wishes, but also in accordance with the dimensions of the greenhouse itself.

If you are going to arrange a room with two rows of plants, then the width of these beds should not exceed one meter so that the work is not only profitable, but also convenient. However, if there are three beds, the width of the central one can be increased to one and a half meters. This is due to the fact that access to it will be free on both sides.

As for the passages between the beds, it is better to make them fifty centimeters wide so that a wheelbarrow with fertilizers or work equipment can move freely.

It is important to choose the right building material for finishing the paths mentioned above. The best option would be wood or brick. These materials prevent slipping during irrigation when water enters the passage.

In order for the greenhouse to please with the harvest, the beds inside the structure must be made high. Let's find out what causes this:

The higher the bed, the more fertile soil it can accept. However, don't overdo it. The maximum height of these elements should be sixty centimeters.
If you equip the greenhouse with high beds, this will make it possible not to scatter fertile soil throughout the greenhouse.
Working in such beds is physically easier.

High beds require a border. It can be built from boards, which are fixed using special pegs. What it looks like is shown in the photo.

It should be noted that creating just such beds has a significant advantage. The polycarbonate with which the greenhouse is sheathed transmits light very well and all of it will fall on the beds that are not shaded by various objects.

Arrangement according to rack type

The photo shows just such a greenhouse.

It happens that a greenhouse serves as a storage facility for seedlings. In this case, you can arrange it using shelving. This solution is also good for growing plants in pots. Thus, you will save space indoors, because the racks can be built in several tiers.

The height of these elements depends on your height. In this case, there is no need to worry about the sun - you already know what polycarbonate is capable of. As for the width of the shelves, you should not make it larger than ninety centimeters. If the rack is located between the paths, you can make it one and a half meters. As for the track coverage, everything is the same as in the previous case.

It is important to know that such a greenhouse needs a separately equipped quarantine room. Plants that need to be checked for the presence of any diseases are placed there. The area inside the greenhouse used for these purposes can be separated from the main area using the same polycarbonate. However, this is not entirely profitable, since polycarbonate is included in the greenhouse kit and its quantity is limited, which means you will have to purchase additional material. Therefore, it is better to replace it with glass. Nobody canceled the sealing of this room.

Let's sum it up

As you can see, the greenhouse can be arranged in different ways. And fertile soil, timely watering and transparent polycarbonate will help you reap a wonderful harvest.

Good luck to you in this not simple, but pleasant and profitable business!

The effectiveness of a greenhouse is determined by the cost of construction, ease of operation and high returns. Those who have seen enough of ready-made structures made of metal and polycarbonate and were impressed by their cost cannot believe that the same ones can be built independently from scrap materials. There are many available technologies for building a greenhouse with your own hands - what to choose, what material to use and what design to make more profitable and easier. Study the theory, watch photos and videos to choose the best option.

Home greenhouse

What can you use to make an inexpensive greenhouse?

To create an inexpensive and functional greenhouse, remnants of various building materials, both new and used, are excellent. For example, the frame can be built from window frames left over after installing metal-plastic windows, a metal profile of a suitable cross-section, or plastic water pipes. What about the coating? To replace expensive glass and polycarbonate, it is worth using alternative materials.

Greenhouse structure made from window frames

Frame materials

To decide on the suitability of a particular type of recyclable material, analyze its properties from the point of view of new operating conditions:

strength, evenness and stability;
environmental safety for humans and the environment;
maintainability and flexibility to machining;
ability to tolerate high humidity and temperature changes.

Arched frame made of wood

Most likely, it is not possible to find a material that is ideal in all respects, but with some allowance for installing the greenhouse frame with your own hands, you can use:

lumber - round timber, timber, boards, sleepers;
metal profiles - round or open section with sufficient (from 1.5 mm) sheet thickness;
water pipes - made of polyvinyl chloride, polypropylene, low-density polyethylene, ordinary or reinforced with metal mesh;
cabinet products to be recycled - wooden containers, construction pallets, wooden or plastic barrels, old refrigerator, window frames.

Mini greenhouse in the refrigerator

Each option has its pros and cons, and they must be taken into account at the beginning of the design:

wood is environmentally friendly and affordable for most summer residents, but before and after installation it must be thoroughly treated with an antiseptic. But even in this case, the service life of a wooden frame does not exceed 5–7 years;
provided that the section is correctly selected and the loads corresponding to it, the metal frame lasts a long time, but is susceptible to corrosion. It must be regularly coated with an anti-corrosion compound;
It is easy and quick to build a tunnel greenhouse from plastic pipes. However, its rigidity and wind resistance are low, so such a structure must be installed in a quiet place and covered only with film.

Creative approach to construction

The use of non-traditional materials and even household items in the design contributes to the discovery of new ways to economically arrange amateur greenhouses. Of course, their service life is short, but in the absence of any costs, nothing prevents you from repeating the experiment at the right time.

Greenhouse cover material

From the inexpensive offers on the market, summer residents traditionally choose film or one of the varieties of non-woven covering material - “Spunbond”, “Lutrasil”, “Agrospan” or another. As for the very popular polycarbonate, if it is not possible to purchase high-quality sheet plastic, do not splurge on a cheap one. Due to almost zero protection from solar radiation, it crumbles literally in the first season of use.

Reinforced film

Someone will argue that the film is unprofitable, since it needs to be removed and changed with your own hands every season. Indeed, this drawback is inherent in conventional polyethylene film, but today there are more durable types of film coatings:

light-stabilized – they contain additives that protect against ultraviolet radiation, which increases their service life to 36 months;
reinforced - have special mechanical strength due to a 2- or 3-layer structure with a reinforcing mesh made of strong polyethylene threads;
air-bubble - also consist of several layers of polyethylene, which gives them additional strength, and specific air-filled bubbles help retain heat inside the greenhouse;
hydrophilic - prevent the accumulation of large drops of condensation on the inner surface and prevent them from falling on the plants.

Two in one: shelter and insulation

When purchasing film, pay attention to its markings - look for transparent light-stabilized (ST) material, preferably with protection from infrared radiation (IIR).

Non-woven fabrics last longer than film fabrics, are well ventilated and have better heat-insulating properties, but are of little use for covering stationary greenhouses. Varieties with a density sufficient for a full cycle of growing crops almost do not transmit light, while thinner and more transparent ones are not very durable. Save this option for additional covering of the film greenhouse during the frost period.

Types of greenhouses for summer cottages

If you plan to build a greenhouse with your own hands from inexpensive components, plan in advance which design best meets the requirements:

Arched - due to the minimum number of joints between parts of the frame and the ability to cover it with a solid canvas, it is considered an ideal solution for early cultivation of vegetable crops by novice summer residents.
Gable - a sufficient angle of inclination of the roof and ease of installation of ventilation vents allow the greenhouse-house to be used throughout the year.
Single-pitch - simple installation and rational use of usable space are best suited for owners of small plots or those who want to install a wall-mounted greenhouse.
Mittlider greenhouse - a special roof design allows you to effectively retain heat and provide comfortable ventilation for the plants in the internal space.
Greenhouse-thermos - its principle of operation is to preserve thermal energy due to its insulation, full or partial deepening and a double or even triple layer of coating. When properly organized, tropical vegetables and fruits can be grown in such thermoses all year round with minimal heating costs.

There are many other types of greenhouse structures - the so-called “droplet”, Fedorov greenhouses, semi-arches, and so on. But not all of them can be built with your own hands, using available materials and without having construction skills. So, take on a greenhouse made of plastic pipes if an arched seasonal structure that requires dismantling in the winter suits you.

To build a large enough single- or double-slope greenhouse from window frames, your own supplies will be small - take a closer look at which neighbors are replacing windows, or negotiate with construction companies about the removal of dismantled frames. Also, keep in mind that to successfully build a profile greenhouse with your own hands, you will need drawings - without them it is difficult to maintain the given dimensions and accurately determine the amount of materials.

Construction highlights

After studying photos of various greenhouses and standard designs or developing your own drawings, proceed to active action. It is important to take a responsible approach to choosing a site for a greenhouse, select a set of the necessary tools and consumables, and decide on the type and depth of the foundation.

Layout example

Choosing a location for a greenhouse

You should not place a greenhouse where it seems convenient. Assess the site from a grower's point of view:

where is its southern zone and where is its northern zone;
which of the free sites is located on the leeward side;
are there tall trees or buildings nearby that shade the space;
whether the new building will cast a shadow on the neighbor’s yard;
How fertile is the soil in the area, does it require cultivation;
where will you get water for irrigation, and is its source located too far away?

South side of the future greenhouse

To ensure that the greenhouse receives enough warmth and light in early spring and late autumn, select a location on the south side of the plot, if possible protected from drafts, away from the red line and high objects. If you do not rule out that you will expand your greenhouse in the future, provide in advance a place to expand the structure.

It is difficult to find a site that ideally meets all these requirements. But in most cases, you can smooth out some of the shortcomings - clear the area of old trees, enrich the soil with fertilizers, install wind protection, organize drip irrigation. However, there are places where a greenhouse cannot be installed:

on the northern slope of the site - the structure will be cold, and the lower parts of the frame will experience an unforeseen increased load;
near (less than 0.5–0.8 m) fences and tall plants - such a proximity threatens the formation of an air funnel and the accumulation of snow in winter, which will lead to excessive heat loss;
next to another winter greenhouse - the snowdrift formed between them can squeeze out the adjacent wall of the structure.

Drainage of a greenhouse structure

It is unacceptable for rain or melt water to flow into the greenhouse, so do not place it in a low area. As a last resort, organize a drainage system with your own hands from drainage ditches, and possibly earthen ramparts along the perimeter of the building.

Required tools and materials

The speed and quality of construction of any object, be it a residential building or a greenhouse, largely depend on the timely and competent selection of all the necessary tools and building materials. If simple frames made of timber and film can be erected with only a hammer, a hacksaw and nails, then for a welded structure made of metal profiles and polycarbonate you will need a whole arsenal of tools:

measuring tape, building level, pegs, twine, square, black marker - for marking;
grinder, cutting wheels, welding machine, electrodes, wood saw, extension cord - for the frame;
drill, drill, bit, cutting knife - for roofing.

The list of materials is no less impressive:

concrete and reinforcement, brick or slate - for the foundation;
square pipe 20x20x2 and a corner of the same size, edged board 25x200, door hinges, metal paint, antiseptic for the frame;
polycarbonate, roofing screws - for roofing.

Calculate the quantity based on the desired dimensions and shape of the greenhouse, as well as the standard sizes of building materials. So, to build a gable greenhouse with your own hands measuring 3x6x1.7 m (see its drawing below), stock up on:

at least 125 m of square pipe and 48 m of angle;
six boards 6 m long (for organizing beds);
3 kg of paint for metal;
five polycarbonate sheets 6x2.1 m;
self-tapping screws 2.5 cm and 4 cm long - 100 and 40 pcs. respectively.

Drawing of a gable greenhouse measuring 3x6x1.7

To save money, you can cover the frame with film or spunbond, using polycarbonate only on the roof.

Foundation arrangement

For small-sized greenhouses, in most cases, a foundation is not needed, but for full-size greenhouses it performs a number of useful functions:

ensures the stability of the frame and the integrity of the coating;
protects against penetration of rodents and weeds;
improves the internal microclimate provided it is insulated with insulating boards.

As you can see, you shouldn’t refuse to build a foundation even for the sake of saving money - this will certainly affect the durability of the entire structure. It’s another matter if you are building a greenhouse with your own hands for one or two seasons or planning to move it to another place. In this case, it is quite possible to get by with arranging a light base from the following materials:

bricks or foam concrete blocks;
wooden beam 100x100 mm;
metal pipes (for a columnar foundation).

Brick laying scheme

Quite reliable bases can be obtained from old railway sleepers or failed brake discs (they can be easily purchased or even asked at a local car repair shop).

The shallow shallow foundation is famous for its quality factor, but its construction is expensive. To build a strip foundation for a greenhouse with your own hands, follow the algorithm:

Clean the area and make markings according to the dimensions of the greenhouse.
Dig a trench 30–40 cm deep and wider than the width of the foundation by the size of the formwork.
Level the bottom of the trench and fill it with a sand cushion 8–10 cm thick.
Moisten the sand, compact it and install formwork on top of it, the above-ground height of which is equal to the height of the future base.
Place a belt tied from reinforcement into the formwork.
Prepare a dry mixture of cement, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:2:4 and fill it with water to form a creamy solution.
Pour it into the formwork, periodically bayoneting it with a shovel or a piece of reinforcement to ensure uniformity.

Shallow concrete base

After a week or a week and a half, you can remove the formwork, but you shouldn’t mount the frame on it yet - wait at least 28 days until the concrete gains strength.

Greenhouse assembly

Before building a greenhouse with your own hands according to the above drawing, cut the profile into a certain number of parts:

300 cm – 2 pcs.,
298 cm – 6 pcs.,
294 cm – 8 pcs.,
170 cm – 18 pcs.,
170 cm with cut corner – 14 pcs.,
160 cm – 4 pcs.,
90 cm – 4 pcs.,
92 cm – 1 pc.,
20 cm – 14 pcs.,
40 cm – 16 pcs.,
130 cm – 3 pcs.,
corner 100 cm – 44 pcs.,
130 cm – 4 pcs.

Use thin circles for cutting, and one thick one for deburring. After this, proceed to welding work:

Weld the front end and side walls.
Weld the intermediate support.
Check the diagonals, set the level and install the skate.
Attach the rear end and intermediate roof strips, including the transom.
Refine the diagonals and weld the braces at the corners and under the ridge.

Welding a greenhouse from a profile

Clean the finished frame from carbon deposits in the welding areas and paint it with a light-colored enamel primer. At the same stage, you can install beds from edged boards.

In the places where the sheets are attached, mark the drilling points with chalk and use a drill to make 4 mm holes.
Cut the polycarbonate sheets into sheets for the ends, roofing and walls.
Make a skate by simply folding a long strip 20–30 cm wide in half.
Attach the plastic blanks to the frame - first the end ones, then the sides, the roof and the ridge.

Polycarbonate fastening

To avoid crushing the polycarbonate honeycombs, supplement the self-tapping screws with special thermal washers with a rubber seal. For the same purpose, you should not overtighten the hardware when drilling. For the convenience of working on the roof, use a device in the form of a board with slats packed across it. Be careful - falling, even from a small height, can cause injury and damage to the polycarbonate.

Types of washers for fastening polycarbonate

An example of an arched structure assembly

If you need not a stationary greenhouse, but a small tunnel greenhouse, the fastest way is to order it on the manufacturer’s website, and it’s cheaper to make it yourself from plastic pipes. Metal pipes can also be used, but to bend them properly, you will need a pipe bender. To increase the rigidity of the structure, it is recommended to fill the pipe cavities with sand and install them on the ends of reinforcing pins driven 20–30 cm into the ground.

Summer residents often complain that such mini-greenhouses fly away at the slightest wind. To make them more stable, build a plank base that can also serve as the sides of the bed:

From one-inch boards, knock down a rectangular box according to the size of the future greenhouse.
Cut the pipes into pieces so that after bending they form an arch of the desired height.
In 1 m increments, install the finished arches into the box, attaching them from the outside with metal clamps and self-tapping screws.
Cover the resulting tunnel with film or spunbond (such a frame will not withstand polycarbonate or glass).
Secure the covering material - at the bottom with an earthen embankment, on the arches with special or homemade clips, or with elastic twine.

Arched structure made of polypropylene pipes

When it gets hot, organize ventilation by lifting the covering sheet on one side, and if necessary, shade the plants with gauze or thin spunbond.

Attached greenhouse and thermos greenhouse

The warmest, even in winter, are greenhouse extensions and thermos greenhouses. Their construction cannot be classified as budget projects, since they are made of polycarbonate and metal, must stand on a solid foundation or be buried several meters deep into the ground.

An attached greenhouse stores heat better by being adjacent to the southern wall of a permanent building - a bathhouse, a garage, a residential building. In an unheated extension, the temperature in winter does not drop below 2–4 °C, which is enough for early forcing of tulips, production of vegetable and flower seedlings, and preservation of outdoor plants from severe frosts. The advantages of a greenhouse extension are obvious, but there are several nuances in its arrangement:

the wall adjacent to the heated room must be insulated;
the completed foundation cannot be rigidly connected to the foundation of the main building;
it is undesirable to rigidly nail the support frame to which the greenhouse frame is attached to the house;
It is important to ensure that snow or ice does not fall from the roof of the house onto the extension.

Underground greenhouse-thermos

The geometric shape of attached greenhouses can be different - single or gable, arched, with straight or sloping walls.

The key feature of thermos greenhouses is their underground location - only part of the walls with a translucent roof are above ground level. Deepening allows you to maintain a microclimate like in a cellar, when the temperature is above zero even in frosts of tens of degrees.

The algorithm for constructing buried structures with your own hands looks like this:

Digging a pit 1.5–2 m deep and laying the foundation.
Construction of walls from moisture- and frost-resistant materials, for example, thermoblocks.
Installation of a metal frame for the roof and covering it with cellular polycarbonate.
Carrying out internal work on the installation of heating, lighting, ventilation systems.

Greenhouse extension as part of an architectural ensemble

Thermos greenhouses built in this way are effectively used for growing melons and exotic plants even in the middle climate zone.

Video: DIY budget greenhouse

Many ways to organize greenhouse farming at a summer cottage have been developed, and among them there are budget solutions. The appearance of inexpensive modern building materials in stores and a lot of practical advice contribute to the growth of public interest in this type of activity. More and more people, starting with small homemade greenhouses and moving on to a full-fledged greenhouse business, are finding a profitable business to their liking.

Video 1: Budget greenhouse of simple design

Video 2: Installation of a timber foundation

Video 3: Welding frame elements

Video 4: Covering the greenhouse with polycarbonate

Invest a little time in studying projects and a little more effort in implementing the one that seems most suitable, and you will get a successfully operating mini-factory of fresh vegetables. The main thing is not to neglect the nuances and absorb as much information as possible, which is actively shared by experienced vegetable growers.

The correct internal arrangement of a polycarbonate greenhouse should solve several main problems. Firstly, it is the creation of an ideal microclimate for plants, including the optimal combination of humidity, temperature, sunlight and ventilation. Secondly, organizing a convenient place to work. Thirdly, maximum use of all useful internal space of the structure.

How to arrange a polycarbonate greenhouse inside, determine the optimal number of beds and paths, and use shelves and racks correctly? You will find answers to these questions in this article.

Beds and paths

The number and arrangement of beds is selected based on the width of the greenhouse itself. For a 3x6 m construction, 2 beds are considered optimal. The width of one should not exceed 1.2 m, and the width of the paths should not exceed 50-70 cm.

Diagram of how to set up a greenhouse inside; in the photo there is a version of a small width greenhouse with two beds

The width of the bed can vary depending on the length of the gardener's arms. 1-1.3 m is considered optimal, when to care for plants you do not have to step on the soil, compacting the soil. Thus, air circulation is reduced and the top layer has to be further loosened.

For greenhouses with a larger width of 4-4.5 m, the optimal placement of growth zones is the arrangement of three beds. Two narrow up to 1 m on the sides and one up to 1.5 m in the middle. This width is due to the possibility of access to the central bed from both sides.

How to arrange a polycarbonate greenhouse inside, photo of arrangement of three beds

The width of the paths is selected based on ease of use and the presence of an automatic watering system in the greenhouse. To avoid touching plants with buckets or watering cans. In addition, if you plan to use auxiliary equipment such as garden one-wheeled wheelbarrows and other equipment, the path should not only be made wider, but also covered with dense material.

Path covering

The coating material for paths in a greenhouse is subject to not only high demands on strength and wear resistance, but also heat resistance. The material should not be afraid of moisture, and be resistant to biological damage, mold, fungi, and rotting. Modern industry produces a variety of materials suitable in their performance characteristics for covering paths in greenhouses:

Seamless dense rubber;
Garden parquet;
Plastic modules for garden paths;
Geotextiles and other non-woven materials made from thermally bonded polypropylene fibers.

Arrangement of the greenhouse inside, photo of the rubber track

Despite all the ease of use in a greenhouse, these products are not widely used among gardeners, the reason is their high cost. The track equipment is used with more budget-friendly materials:

Paving concrete slabs;
Brick;
Mulching with sand, gravel, conifer bark;
Laying boards on a roofing felt lining.

Important! When choosing a material for equipping paths, you must remember about high humidity and periodic watering; the coating should not slip.

The height of the beds and the material of the sides

When arranging a greenhouse inside, high beds are widely used, which have a number of advantages:

With a high groundwater horizon on the site, the possibility of wetting the root system of plants is eliminated;
When arranging at a significant height, up to 1 m, it is much more convenient to care for low-growing plants;
Possibility of developing agricultural areas on a site with heavily compacted earth or a significant amount of construction debris.

However, there is also a significant drawback. It is difficult to grow moisture-loving and/or perennial crops in such beds. The soil dries out quickly and freezes heavily in winter.

Photo of the arrangement of the greenhouse inside, high soil level, brick sides lined with tiles

The following materials are used for sides when arranging a polycarbonate greenhouse inside:

Wood - boards, beams, small diameter logs. The disadvantages of its arrangement are the fragility of the material, all 2-3 seasons and replacement is necessary. Using antiseptics to prevent rot can have a detrimental effect on plants.
Branches of vine or hazel are an even less durable material, used in the form of hand-made wattle fence. Its use is justified only with high aesthetic requirements. It is often used for decorative cladding of more durable, but externally unsightly materials;
Stone, brick, concrete are durable materials that provide the necessary tightness to the side walls of a raised bed. Their arrangement will require significantly more time, but their service life can be tens of years.
Polymer products are used mainly for arranging low-level beds of 15-20 cm. They have high resistance to biological damage, but are not strong enough.

Racks and shelves

To increase the area for seedlings, it is often practiced to arrange shelves on which additional soil is placed. Thus, the usable area is significantly increased.

Multi-tier greenhouse, interior arrangement of racks with plants

Minimum set of equipment

Modern manufacturers can provide an impressive list of high-tech equipment for polycarbonate greenhouses and agriculture:

Equipment for irrigation system;
Automatic ventilation;
Lighting and various types of heating equipment.

All this automated greenhouse equipment inside can significantly make life easier for a gardener and significantly increase productivity. The only drawback is the high cost. However, there are budget alternatives for how to equip a polycarbonate greenhouse inside. Any gardener can afford these devices.

Drip irrigation

To set up drip irrigation you do not need complex equipment. A hose and several plastic tees are enough. The irrigation network is placed inside directly on the ground. If desired, you can connect the water supply system to pumping equipment, but if there is no electric pump of the required power, then you can make an ordinary water tower by installing a barrel of water at a height of 1.5-2 m. By connecting power equipment and a controller with a timer to the tap, you can

Schematic diagram of an irrigation system for self-production, in the photo there is an autonomous battery-powered timer equipped with a water supply device

Ventilation equipment

In order to equip an automatic ventilation system, there is no need to buy expensive climate control equipment. It is enough to purchase an autonomous mechanical device - a thermal drive. Such equipment will be able to open ventilation vents in the greenhouse when the threshold temperature is exceeded. Video that describes the principle of operation and shows the operation of thermosetting equipment:

Lighting and heating

Any lamps are suitable as lighting equipment, however, when installing electrical wiring, you should remember that the humidity level in the room is constantly increased. So sockets, switches and other electrical equipment must be housed in a protected housing. It is better to use IR heaters as heating equipment in late autumn and early spring.

Arrangement of a polycarbonate greenhouse inside, photo of IR heating equipment