How to make a false ceiling with your own hands. How to make a false ceiling with your own hands - step by step instructions

Today, more and more often, false ceilings of various types and their various materials appear in apartments and houses. The advantages of such structures can be called short terms and relative ease of installation. If the art of surfaces is far from accessible to everyone, then any homeowner who knows how to use a drill, a jigsaw and a screwdriver can probably make an even installation of the frame and installation of certain panels on it. Of course, there are also suspended ceilings, the installation of which is best left to specialists, since the technology for their installation will require certain qualifications. Such ceilings include, for example, their stretch version.

Do-it-yourself suspended ceiling can be made from drywall, slabs made from various materials, wooden lining, etc. To make a decision on the right choice of design for its independent execution, it is worth considering them in more detail.

Varieties of suspended ceilings

As a rule, most suspended ceilings are mounted on a frame made of wooden bars or metal profiles. This design becomes the basis for attaching the selected skin to it.

Metal elements are also used for stretch surfaces, but this type of design is fundamentally different from other ceilings.

The Armstrong suspended ceiling systems stand somewhat apart, which have become quite popular due to their aesthetic appearance and the ability to easily repair, quickly replacing, if necessary, the required number of damaged panels.

Suspended plasterboard ceiling

Drywall is an environmentally friendly building material that does not emit absolutely no harmful fumes into the environment. According to this parameter, it is ideal for finishing almost any surface in residential premises.

Due to the fact that several types of this material are produced, it can be used not only in rooms with normal conditions, but also in rooms where humidity exceeds the norm, for example, in a bathroom, in a kitchen, etc. In addition, there are varieties of this material that can be used for ceilings and from high temperatures that inevitably occur, for example, when melting a fireplace or stove.

Each of the types of drywall has its own marking and a certain tinting of the outer cardboard surface:

Marking	Standard sheet size, mm	Coating color	Marking color
GKL (normal)	1200×2500 thickness 6; 9.5; 12.5mm	Grey	Blue
GKLV (moisture resistant)	1200×2500 thickness 6; 9.5; 12.5mm	Green	Blue
GKLO (fire resistant)	1200×2500; 1200×2600 thickness 9.5; 12.5mm	Pink or gray	Red
GKLVO (fire-resistant and moisture-resistant)	1200×2500 thickness 9.5; 12.5mm	Grey-green	Red

Suspended stretch ceilings

Stretch ceilings can completely change and visually expand the space. They can be absolutely white, solid color, have a regular or spatial pattern, which, for example, imitates the vault of heaven with floating clouds or tree crowns.

Stretch ceilings can be made of fiberglass, knitted polyester impregnated with polyurethane, or PVC film.

The installation of the canvas takes place on special aluminum profiles fixed on the walls, or on an installed frame, if the ceiling is planned to be combined. In the latter case, the overall structure may consist of several materials, such as plasterboard along the edges of the ceiling and a tensile structure in the middle.

Combined ceiling with stretch and plasterboard sections

This type of ceiling has many advantages, which include moisture resistance, aesthetic appearance, good adaptation to any interior, durability without loss of decorative qualities. However, the installation of such original systems should still be carried out by specialists with relevant experience and special equipment.

Raster or cassette ceilings

Raster or cassette ceilings are called ceilings, consisting of a metal frame suspended on brackets to the ceiling, forming cells of the required size. into which finished panels of the correct form are then laid. Panel dimensions are different, but in the vast majority of models standard blocks of 600 × 600 or 600 × 1200 mm are used.

This type of suspended ceilings also includes the Armstrong systems, which are often used for finishing offices, public buildings, etc. However, they are widely used in private construction. It is the Armstrong suspension system that the further presentation will be devoted to.

Prices for popular types of plastic ceiling panels

Plastic ceiling panels

Suspended ceiling system "Armstrong"

This ceiling system was developed by the British company Armstrong during the period of the construction boom, when it became necessary to quickly design ceilings in sales areas with very large areas. In addition to the speed of installation, such structures were subject to the requirements of aesthetics, accuracy and, together with themes - restraint decorating design. As a result of the implementation of these conditions, a design was born, which is now used all over the world, and not only in offices and halls of shopping centers, but also for decorating ceilings in residential premises.

Initially, the Armstrong system was developed for the quick finishing of large areas of shopping malls.

Today, the name of these ceilings has become a household name for all suspension systems of this type, using light square-shaped slabs.

Panels installed in this system can be made of glass fiber reinforced gypsum, mineral fiber, acrylic or silicate transparent or frosted glass.

Some of the ceiling panels are at the same time a kind of lamps, as they are equipped with glass illuminated by lamps installed in the interceiling space, or they have their own built-in lighting devices.

Another option to make the room as bright as possible is on the main whitewashed ceiling, and then mounting a suspended decorative surface from frosted glass panels. Glass at this arrangement will work like lenses, as a result of which you can get a soft diffused light that will not leave even the corners of the room dark.

The most popular in everyday construction practice are gypsum fiber slabs with a porous surface. Most often, it is they who make out most of the ceiling area, and lighting panels are mounted between them.

It should be noted that the developers for the manufacture of system panels provided for environmentally friendly, does not emit harmful fumes, easy to massthe material that does not weigh down the suspended structure and at the same time gives the ceiling a strict, neat look.

The porous surface of the Armstrong panel

If desired, after a while the plates can be temporarily removed and painted in a different color scheme. And, the process of such toning can be carried out on the street or on the balcony, without polluting the floor surface of the apartment and without bringing the smell of paint into the living quarters. This possibility exists due to the fact that the panels can be easily dismantled, and after processing they can be easily put into place.

In addition, the panels, unlike polystyrene foam boards, are absolutely non-flammable, do not produce smoke and do not contribute to the spread of fire when a fire occurs next to them. This makes the room completely fireproof from the ceiling.

Ceiling construction

The principle of mounting the Armstrong system, consisting of guides of various types, is approximately the same. The suspended structure is assembled from the following elements:

An approximate diagram of the design of the false ceiling "Armstrong"

Plates laid in the structure, from which the decorative ceiling surface is formed. Produced in sizes 600 × 600 and 600 × 1200 mm, indicated on the diagram pos. 1. Rectangular slabs are less popular than square slabs, although the frame and their laying is much faster due to the smaller number of suspended structure elements used.
T-shaped frame profiles are usually marked T15 or T24 - depending on the width of their transverse flange in millimeters:

— Longitudinal load-bearing profiles, which are the main structural elements, are produced up to 3600 mm long. In the diagram they are shown pos. 3 and 4.

- Cross jumpers installed between the supporting profiles. They are produced in standard sizes of 600 and 1200 mm. On the diagram - pos. 2.

- Corner profiles fixed to the wall and supporting the edges of the profiles and panels along the perimeter of the room. They have a shelf size of 19 × 24 mm, length - up to 3000 mm. These elements are indicated in the diagram pos. 6 and 8.

To hold the entire structure in suspension at the required general level, special elements are used - suspensions. Most often, in ordinary construction practice, knitting needles with a spring-loaded “butterfly” lock are used. With the help of these elements, the suspension system can be lowered from the main ceiling to the required distance. One cannot but agree that this — fairly simple way display the ideal horizontal ceiling surface.

Such a suspension usually consists of three elements:

- A knitting needle equipped with an eyelet at one end, in the diagram - pos. 5 B. The eyelet is intended for hanging on an element fixed in the main ceiling, pos. 7.

- A spoke having a hook at one end, on which the frame profiles will be hooked - pos. 5a.

- Spring type "butterfly", pos. 5 helps to regulate the relative position of the two spokes relative to each other. "Butterflies" can be of several types.

However, you should be aware that spring-loaded hangers - "butterflies" - this is not the only way to fasten the frame. The Armstrong system can be divided into several varieties, which differ in the design of suspension mounts. All of them are accurately calculated by the manufacturer, taking into account the surface on which the frame will be hung. And, both the simplest methods are used in the form of tying on a wire, and quite complex ones, in which the height of the suspension is adjusted by a screw method, giving high installation accuracy.

Suspension type	Limits of regulation	Setting accuracy	Note
Wire	30 kg	up to 5000 mm	± 2 mm	Do not use in high wind conditions
L-profile	30 kg	up to 3000 mm	± 2 mm	Used when creating rigid vertical links
	45 kg	up to 1000 mm	±0.5mm	Especially recommended for the installation of metal cassette ceilings "Armstrong Orcal"
	25 kg	165÷980 mm	± 1 mm
	25 kg	up to 2000 mm	± 1 mm
Nonius hook	15 kg	300÷800 mm	±0.5mm

Manufacturers of the Armstrong system have also developed recommendations for the use of various fasteners for installing suspensions on certain floor surfaces. This point is also important to consider when choosing and purchasing the necessary components.

ceiling material	Type of suspension system

	Wire	L-profile	Threaded rod + adapter	Two-spoke hook with spring lock	Single-spoke hook with spring lock	Nonius hook
Reinforced concrete	Hanging hook Hilti HA-8	Anchor Hilti DBZ 6S	Spacer Hilti HKD S M 6×30	Hanging hook Hilti HA-8	Hanging hook Hilti HA-8	Anchor Hilti DBZ 6S
metal beam	-	-	Threaded pin Hilti X-EM 6-20-12 mit	-	-	-
Decking	-	-	Anchor MF-SKD	-	-	Anchor MF-SKD
wooden floor	wood screws
hollow block	Anchor dowel Hilti HHD-S	Anchor dowel Hilti HHD-S	Umbrella dowel	Anchor dowel Hilti HHD-S	-	Anchor dowel Hilti HHD-S
prestressed concrete		Spacer sleeve HKD S M 6×30	Spacer sleeve HKD S M 6×30	-	Spacer sleeve HKD S M 6×30	Spacer sleeve HKD S M 6×30
foam concrete	-	-	Spacer sleeve HKD S M 6×30	-	-	-

Tools and materials for mounting the Armstrong system

To install the false ceiling of the Armstrong system, you will need to prepare some tools that will help you quickly get the job done:

Electric drill with impact function or rotary hammer. If the structure will be mounted on a concrete ceiling and walls, then this tool is indispensable.
Shurupov rt for screwing in fixing screws.
Hammer.
Metal scissors.
Electric jigsaw for trimming edge boards. Many plates can be cut with an ordinary sharp construction knife.
Pliers.
Marking cord, simple pencil or marker.
Building level, building corner with a ruler, tape measure or folding rule and a 1000 mm ruler.

From the materials you need to prepare the following elements, purchased according to the dimensions taken from the ceiling surface:

Corner profile, which will be installed on the walls around the entire perimeter of the room.

Bearing profiles, which will be suspended from the ceiling, and with their edges resting on the corner profiles. To calculate their number, the width of the room is divided into strips of 600 mm and two corner profiles are subtracted from the resulting result, since they will perform the same function. For example, the width is 3000 mm, so 3000 : 600 = 5 — 2 = 3 pcs. It turns out that with this size of the room, between the corner rails on the walls, you need to install three middle T-shaped load-bearing profiles.

600 mm T-shaped rails - jumpers. Their number for laying between two load-bearing profiles is calculated in the same way as for longitudinal solid elements, but since there will be five such gaps in this case, it means that the resulting number must be multiplied by this figure. For example, the length of a room is 5400 mm, it must be divided by 600, it turns out 9–2 (corner rails) \u003d 7 × 5 (rows) \u003d 35 pcs.

Ceiling two-piece suspension with a clamping spring. These items will require 1 pc. per 1 sq.m .. Therefore, you need to find out the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, rounded up to a whole number.

Example: for a room measuring 3 × 5.4 m you will need:

- angular profile 16.8 m;

- carrier rails 3 pcs. 5.4 mm in size; Since they are produced with a length of 3.6 m, they will have to be made from two component parts.

- jumpers with a size of 600 mm - 35 pcs.;

- hangers - 16 pcs. and the same number of ceiling mounts, which are selected depending on the material of the ceiling.

Drawing up an installation diagram

It should be noted that the supporting T-shaped profile is installed in the middle of the width of the false ceiling - this should predetermine the location of the jumpers. This is done because it is extremely rare that the ceiling will be completely assembled from solid slabs, and it is better to place narrower frame cells at the edges of the room.

Sometimes they do it this way - they place carrier profiles with a step of 1200 mm, then they are connected with jumpers of 1200 mm, between which the shortest ones are already installed - 600 mm each.

On the diagram:

1 - bearing profiles;

2 - jumpers 1200 mm long;

3 - jumpers 600 mm long.

When making a drawing, the dimensions of the ceiling are transferred to the sheet in the appropriate scale (optimally - 1:10). Then apply the center lines, vertical and horizontal. Further, segments corresponding to the size of the plates are already measured from the center, and the entire plane is drawn into squares. Such visibility will help to correctly determine the profiles used, and their number, and with the exact location. It is possible that it would be more reasonable from the point of view of aesthetics or economy of materials to slightly shift the lines so that not the profiles but the centers of the rows of panels are located along the axes.

It is recommended that all calculations be carried out accurately and in millimeters, then you can get the desired size of the cells, which will be located at the edges of the structure. The material should be purchased with a margin of 10-15% - such foresight will help to avoid problems with its shortage in the process of work.

Surface marking

In order for the frame to be installed efficiently, before installing it, it is necessary to accurately mark the ceiling and walls. Although the profiles will not be fixed to the main surface of the ceiling, marking lines should be present on it, since it will be easy to navigate along them, placing the carrier rails and jumpers.

It should also be noted here that the suspended ceiling can be located at least 150 mm from the main ceiling - this must be taken into account when choosing this system for interior decoration. This distance will be needed for communications and installation of lighting fixtures. In addition, insulating and soundproofing material can also be placed in this cavity.

Marking can be carried out in a modern way, using a laser tracer-level. However, not everyone has the opportunity to purchase such a tool, so it is worth considering the traditional way of marking work.

The first step is to determine the distance that the suspended ceiling will be lowered. To do this, from the junction of the ceiling and the wall, using a building corner with a ruler, the required distance is measured in the place where the ceiling surface is visually located the lowest (in most cases, the floor slab may not be located strictly horizontally, and its surface is not always flat).
Then, this mark must be transferred around the entire perimeter of the room, at least three risks on each wall. You can, of course, use a long building level, for example, in combination with a rule. However, it is still easy to make a mistake with this approach, and as a result, the lines drawn on the walls will not converge at one point. Therefore, it is optimal to mark up using a water level - so the possibility of an error will be excluded.
Then, a marking colored cord is taken, stretched, aligned at the two extreme points on the wall, and a straight line is beaten off on the surface. The third point, in the center of the wall, will serve as a control. This procedure is best done together, with an assistant. If it is carried out by one master, then one end of the cord will first have to be fixed on the wall at one of the extreme points, and then stretched and beaten.

Next, you need to mark the surface of the ceiling. If an accurate drawing is made, then the distances from the walls to the nearest longitudinal and transverse lines will be exactly known, and it remains to make marks and punch the lines with a cord. In the event that the installation of panels is supposed to be from the exact geometric center of the room, then the center lines are first beaten off.

Then, segments of 600 mm are marked in all directions, and colored stripes are also beaten off along them. As a result, the ceiling must be “lined” into a regular cage with sides of 600 mm squares.

Laying communications

After marking, proceed to the next stage of work.

Since all communications can be hidden above the surface of the suspended ceiling, which are most often electrical wiring for various purposes, this must be done before installation work begins.

In the event that it is planned to “embed” lighting fixtures with significant weight into the ceiling structure, it must be taken into account that the type of system suspension that can withstand the increased load should be chosen. So, most often for ordinary ceilings, suspensions are used that can withstand a force of only 6 ÷ 6.5 kg per square meter, but there is a type of fastener designed for more significant loads, up to 10 and more kg / m².

Frame installation

Having completed all the preparatory work, you can proceed to the installation of the frame. And they start it by fixing on the walls, along the marked horizontal lines, an angular profile around the entire perimeter of the room.

If the walls are concrete, then the corners are fixed on them with dowels with a diameter of 6 mm. To do this, holes are drilled through the metal of the corner with a pitch of 300 ÷ 350 mm, into which a dowel is inserted and hammered.

On wooden walls, the corner is fixed with self-tapping screws 25 ÷ 30 mm long, 4 ÷ 5 mm in diameter.
If a false ceiling is mounted in a room with walls being prepared for sheathing drywall sheets, the distance to which it will be lowered from the floor level must be foreseen in advance, before installing the GKL on the crate. In this case, an additional profile or a wooden beam is mounted in the crate under the drywall in the place where the wall corner for the suspended structure will be fixed.
In the corners of the profile shelves can be stacked one on the to another, or their protruding parts are cut off at an angle of 45 degrees.

Installation of hangers

Further, along the ceiling marked lines, suspensions are fixed with dowels or self-tapping screws. Their placement is carried out in increments of one suspension per square meter.

In the places of the planned installation of panel panels, it is recommended to put, for insurance, additional suspensions at the corners of the square.

If the suspension spokes turned out to be longer than the distance between the two ceilings, then they are cut off, for example, using a grinder.

When installing hangers, it is recommended to orient their lower hooks immediately in one direction - this will facilitate the installation of guides.

Support profiles

The next step is the installation of carrier profiles. With their edges they should lie on the corners fixed on the wall. However, the corners are only a guide, but do not play a bearing role in this case. Each of the profiles has special round holes through which they are immediately put on the hanger hooks.

Bearing profiles are mounted at a distance set by a pre-drawn drawing, 600 or 1200 mm from each other. It is difficult to make a mistake in this matter - for this it will be enough to navigate on the ceiling lines and suspensions already located along them.
The overall "reach" of the suspension must be fine-tuned, that is. pull up or lower a little lower, so that the transverse profile shelf lies on the wall corners without clearance, but not resting on it with effort. Control during work is carried out using the building level - with the correct marking in this position, the profile should take a perfectly horizontal position.

In order for the profiles to hold well on the hanger hooks, the latter need to be squeezed a little with pliers.

Having finished the installation of the longitudinal bearing rails, they proceed to the installation of crossbars (lintels) between them.

Jumper setting

Jumpers are installed between the supporting profiles with a step of 600 mm. At both ends of the transverse elements there are narrowed perforated "lugs-locks" with rounded corners.

They are inserted into the slots located on the supporting profiles. Some craftsmen bend these parts of the jumpers, pressing them against the carrier rail, then the structure becomes more rigid. However, this is not at all necessary, since the latches securely fix the elements to each other, and after the entire frame is fully assembled, the required rigidity will be fully observed.

The slotted holes are wide enough so that they can be inserted into the "ears" from two jumpers, which are installed between two adjacent load-bearing profiles and are collectively a continuation of the common transverse line of the structure.

Panel mounting

After the installation of the frame is completed, the next step is the installation of lighting panels or slabs with spotlights built into them.

Panel - LED-lamp

There are panels that resemble a screen covered with frosted glass. They are specially designed for installation in Armstrong systems, therefore they have the appropriate dimensions - 600 × 600 mm. Powerful LEDs installed in such a panel give a fairly bright soft light, and for a small room one such LED lamp is enough to create almost daylight diffused lighting.

The lighting device, after installing the corresponding panel, is connected to the electrical cable, which is connected to the place of its installation in advance, using special terminals or blocks.

Further, the installation is carried out, starting with solid ceiling tiles. They fit into the cells of the frame, and, since the panels are light, it is extremely easy to mount them. These elements do not require any additional fastening - they simply fit on the inner shelves of the longitudinal and transverse profiles.

If the cells of the structure extreme to the wall have a smaller width, then the plates must be adjusted for them.

The material from which the panels are made is easy to cut with an ordinary hacksaw, but first you need to take the correct dimensions from a narrow cell and transfer them to the plate. Then, a straight cut line is drawn and the excess part is cut off (or even cut off with a sharp construction knife).

In fact, after laying all the fragments along the walls, the installation of the Armstrong ceiling can be considered completed. No additional finishing operations are required.

It should be noted that the simplest frame scheme for this type of ceiling was considered above. In addition to it, there are others, for example, when the plates are laid diagonally in the room, or in even rows, but with the cells shifted relative to each other - the design of the guides allows this.

Ceilings of the Armstrong system open up great opportunities in interior design. They can be painted in different colors, applied to them with the selected pattern, and also laid out in the desired order. They can be mounted in the form of stripes of different colors or in a checkerboard pattern, and well-chosen light panels will add exclusivity and aesthetics to the overall style of the interior of the room.

And at the end of the topic - visual Video instruction for the installation of the cassette ceiling "Armstrong".

Video: how to properly mount the Armstrong false ceiling

Not everyone can boast of beautiful, even ceiling coverings in an apartment or house. Many are faced with the problem of leveling old concrete ceilings. One of the best alignment options is a false ceiling. It is worth noting that the design and installation of a false ceiling is highly complex, therefore, before proceeding with this work, you should thoroughly prepare.

However, if you need the skills to perform this work to plaster the ceiling, then anyone who knows how to use a drill, a screwdriver, or a jigsaw can install a false ceiling.

Peculiarities

First, let's deal with the concept of "suspended ceiling". From the name it is clear that it is a certain frame structure, which is installed on a conventional ceiling covering using special materials. It performs various functions, the main one being decorative.

In addition, suspended ceilings can serve as sound insulation, additional insulation.

The suspended structure is able to change the overall appearance of the ceiling, embody design ideas. Creating a false ceiling is one of the easiest and most inexpensive ways to level the ceiling covering, which can be done without the help of specialists. Another advantage of this design is the ability to create stunning multi-tiered, figured ceilings, which can be advantageously emphasized with different lighting options.

The ceiling can hide obvious imperfections (roughness, cracks, pipes, etc.), get rid of noise (especially important for people who prefer not to hear noisy neighbors, the fuss of pets or children of neighbors), it does not darken over time, does not crack, unlike conventional coatings.

Despite the fact that the procedure for installing a false ceiling is quite difficult and time consuming, many people prefer to mount a false ceiling themselves. You can really do it yourself, knowing the nuances. Before starting work, you should evaluate how expedient it is to install a suspended ceiling. You must take into account factors such as the occurrence of condensation under the structure, the likelihood of rodents, insects in the space between the regular and suspended ceilings.

You should also understand that installing such a ceiling will visually reduce the height of the room.

If you have no doubts about the correct choice, then you can start preparing for installation.

To begin with, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the varieties of this design. Suspended ceiling is a system of suspensions and profiles that are installed on a regular ceiling. Then the material is attached to the created structure, which will be the ceiling. To date, there is a wide variety of materials that differ in structure, design, texture and color, so you can create real masterpieces.

Most often, plasterboard, plastic panels, wood lining, tiles and other materials are used to create a false ceiling. There are several types of false ceiling. It can be rack, cassette, solid, lattice, hemmed. Most of the suspended ceilings are installed on a structure assembled from wooden planks, metal.

Pros and cons

Suspended ceilings have a number of advantages and disadvantages. Before starting repairs, you should familiarize yourself with them in order to be prepared for the result.

The benefits of suspended ceilings include:

A quick and affordable way to hide the minuses of the main ceiling. This item is especially relevant for those who want to give a good look to the ceiling in old rooms with problem areas, for example, with deep cracks, depressions due to the partial absence of plaster layers. Installing a suspended ceiling will help save on the dismantling and re-installation of the plaster layer.
Availability and variety of materials. For installation, you can choose the material based on quality, cost, texture, color scheme, and your own preferences.

No restrictions on color solutions, texture. Suspended ceilings allow you to embody different ideas of designers, turning the coating into a unique element of the apartment. Skillful use of lighting will help emphasize important details.
Easy to operate. The complexity of care depends on the selected materials. Most of them repel dust, do not let moisture through. For washing, you can use ordinary detergents.
Installing such a ceiling helps to hide wires and other elements of communication systems (alarm, ventilation, electrical wiring, etc.), increasing the attractiveness of the ceiling.

Simple full or partial dismantling if necessary.
Long service life, subject to the rules of operation. A suspended ceiling can last from 15 years with proper installation and proper care.
Possibility of installing additional lighting fixtures mounted in the ceiling.
Soundproofing to prevent the penetration of noise from neighbors.
Heat preservation, fire safety, resistance to temperature changes.

There are also a number of disadvantages that may affect the decision to install this design:

Changing the height of the apartment. A slight change in ceiling height becomes a significant problem for small spaces.
Quite a high cost compared to the content of a conventional ceiling. When evaluating this item, it is worth considering the difference in care. The usual ceiling is required to be periodically put in order, using whitewash, paint. The worse the condition of the ceiling, the more difficult it is to bring it back to normal.

The suspended ceiling is durable and does not require constant maintenance.

Dependence on external conditions. Most suspended ceilings do not tolerate high humidity well, in case of water penetration into the structure, partial or complete reconstruction of the ceiling elements will be required.
Favorable conditions for the reproduction of rodent insects. In some private and high-rise buildings, cockroaches, mice, rats can start. If they fall into the space between the regular and suspended ceilings, it will be difficult for you to get rid of them.

Materials and tools

The future result depends on the choice of materials. Therefore, it is worth paying special attention to the selection of elements for creating a false ceiling.

To install it you will need:

Aluminum profile of two types. The guide is needed for fastening around the entire perimeter of the room; it serves as a frame for other elements. The ceiling profile is used for further installation of the external ceiling material on it.

It is advisable to use elements of a set of profiles from one manufacturer.

Drywall. The choice of drywall depends on the type of room, you should take into account the particular operating conditions of the ceiling. For rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to choose GKL green. This type of drywall is water repellent, so it won't lose its shape and quality when it comes into contact with moisture.

For living rooms, you can take gray sheets 8-10 mm thick. Do not choose thick materials, the thicker the sheet, the greater its weight, which means that additional elements will be needed for its installation.

Fasteners. Without them, it is impossible to install a false ceiling. Fasteners are needed for fastening profiles and external materials. For fastening profiles, direct suspensions, "crabs", extensions are needed.

To mount the suspensions, you will need dowels 8x10 mm, galvanized screws 4.2x51 mm. To install GKL sheets, 25 mm self-tapping screws are needed.

In addition to materials, you need to prepare the following tools:

pencil;
roulette;
building level to determine the marking line for the profile and drywall, a rule of 2.5 m;

paint thread;
electric drill or screwdriver;
perforator with a drill;

construction knife;
grinder for metal carving;
scissors for metal carving.

After installing the false ceiling, you will need materials for finishing:

putty for filling seams-gaps, irregularities;
sickle;
acrylic primer;

fine-grained sandpaper;
spatula of medium size;

paint brush or roller for painting work;
material for sound and heat insulation;
porous sealing tape to ensure the tightest touch of the ceiling to the base.

Payment

The amount of materials required is affected by the size of the ceiling area:

The number of guides depends on the perimeter of the room, for the calculation you need to know the width and length of the room.
The ceiling profile is installed along the entire length every 60 cm.
Drywall should cover the entire ceiling area, to calculate the number of sheets, the ceiling area should be divided by the area of \u200b\u200b1 sheet (about 3 sq. M).
The number of fasteners depends on the number of intended connections.

Construction device

Not a single work, especially such a complex and responsible one, takes place without preliminary planning and exact compliance with the technology. Before starting the installation of a false ceiling, you should draw a design drawing on paper and purchase accessories.

The markup should be competent and accurate so that in the future you do not have to redo all the work from scratch.

To create a drawing, it is necessary to measure the length and width of the room as accurately as possible. To begin with, using a level, a horizontal line is drawn at a distance of 10-15 cm from the ceiling level. The exact height depends on the selected type of luminaires (surface-mounted, built-in, etc.). At this stage, you must determine the degree of curvature of your ceiling, in order to take this into account when installing a suspended one. This is a mandatory step.

After calculating the height and perimeter of the ceiling, draw longitudinal and transverse lines along the perimeter in increments of 60 cm. You should get even squares. Hangers will be attached on longitudinal lines, they are marked with dots every 60 cm.

Installation

Do-it-yourself false ceiling installation does not mean working alone. You will need one or more assistants to complete the job.

You should start with a simple single-level ceiling.

First stage

The first step is to prepare the room. You must remove everything unnecessary from the room so that nothing interferes with work. Carefully check the walls, if necessary, they need to be leveled. Conduct all the necessary communications so that you do not have to do this after installing the ceiling.

If there are gaps in the ceiling, they need to be repaired. Make sure the ceiling surface is dry, if necessary, let the room dry.

Marking work

Before starting work on the installation of the ceiling, you must consider the placement of lighting fixtures. The height of the ceiling will depend on the type chosen. In the presence of spot lighting, it is necessary to lower the ceiling 3-4 mm below the height of the fixtures; for an overhead source, it is required to lower the level by 5-10 cm.

If the main ceiling was not level, the lowest point should be determined. It is she who will become the reference for marking. If you select any other point, the false ceiling will be tilted.

After marking, a flat horizontal line is drawn around the entire perimeter. This can be done with a rule or a long level.

base fasteners

According to the markings made with an interval of 35-40 cm, you need to drill holes. Then you can begin to assemble the ceiling structure. In this case, a guide profile is first applied, plastic dowels are inserted into the drilled holes. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the dowel, preferably for wood.

Please note that the strength of the false ceiling is directly related to the quality of the fasteners, so you need to drill deep enough holes. The depth to which it is necessary to drill is usually between 40 and 80 mm.

After completing the installation of the guide profiles along the entire length and width of the ceiling, rack (ceiling) profiles should be installed. They are laid every 60 cm, their ends must be on the side guide profiles. It is worth noting that for simplicity and strength of the base, the length of the rack profiles should not exceed 2.5 m. In general, their length should correspond to the width of the room minus 1 cm due to the side guide profiles.

Rack profiles are inserted into the center of the marks-marks, then they are fastened with self-tapping screws with a press washer to fix the mount. Suspensions are used every 40 cm to avoid sagging of the ceiling, they provide reliability and rigidity of the structure.

Laying wiring, preparing the installation of a chandelier

Preparation for the installation of lighting fixtures depends on their type. If you chose spotlights, then you will need to drill holes in the drywall in the right places. Please note that the hole should not fall into the profile. If you plan to install a chandelier, then you will need to additionally fasten it to the ceiling or to the ceiling base.

To avoid sagging, additional suspensions and mortgages are needed at the installation site of the chandelier.

All wiring must be hidden in a PVC corrugated sleeve.

Insulation laying

If you want to increase sound insulation and insulate the ceiling, you will need to lay insulation on top of the frame. The insulation is attached to the main ceiling with dowels with a mushroom cap.

Drywall fasteners

Before starting the fastening, you need to cut out the panels from the drywall to cover the ceiling area, for this you must strictly follow the step-by-step instructions. First of all, the lines are marked with a pencil, then they are cut along the marked lines with a construction knife.

Drywall is fastened with screws to the profile, the distance between the screws is 20-30 cm, such an indent must be. The edges of two sheets can be brought together closely, or a small gap between them (up to 5 mm) can be left. The heads of the self-tapping screws need to be drowned in the sheet by 1-2 mm, then they are covered with putty.

Then they can be hidden in a glazing bead, covered with curtains, etc. If the heads are left uncovered, they will rust over time and spoil the aesthetic appearance of the ceiling. All cracks are clogged with putty, and a sickle is glued at the joints with the help of Perlfix.

As you can see, assembling a false ceiling with your own hands is not at all difficult if the assembly takes place in strict accordance with our recommendations.

Decorative works

After the installation of the false ceiling is completed, the next phase begins - the decorative finish. Now it can be wallpapered, painted, paneled with plastic, wood, etc. As in the previous stage of work, you can do the necessary finishing with your own hands to give the surface absolute evenness and smoothness. Regardless of what material is chosen for the finish coat, you need to carefully eliminate the seams formed at the joints of the drywall sheets.

To do this, use a primer. The primer is applied to the butt joints, then you need to wait for it to dry completely. After that, with the help of putty, the surface is leveled, any seams, joints, pits from self-tapping screws are completely filled. After the putty has completely hardened, it is processed with a sickle, it is needed for more durable bonding of problem areas.

The serpentine tape, due to the porosity of the surface, improves the drying quality of the next layer of putty. The areas on which the sickle was glued are again covered with putty after the material has dried.

Sometimes, when performing installation work, problems may arise due to damage to parts of the drywall, for example, a gap has appeared in some place of the top paper layer. This hole should be repaired so as not to spoil the aesthetic appearance of the finished coating. In the place of problematic irregularities, you can stick a sickle, after which it dries, give the surface a smooth look with putty.

At the stage of installing gypsum sheets, it is worth leaving the joints rounded. Drywall makers have thought of this, so the edges of the sheets are rounded. It is much easier to close the seams, which are round pits, and not ditches due to the more convenient filling with putty. After gluing the sickle and laying the putty, there should be no unevenness on the surface, their level must strictly correspond to the level of drywall, the edges of which are narrowed in thickness for processing seams with finishing materials.

Special attention should be paid to the seams formed at the joints of drywall sheets cut by you during the work. The ends of such sheets will have the usual thickness, if you stick a sickle without special processing, then a small tubercle will appear at the seam. To avoid such a situation, you should chamfer the end of the sheet.

In other words, you need to cut the sheet of drywall at an angle of 45 degrees in those places where it had to be cut to fit the ceiling. To do this, you can use a construction knife or a special planer. Then small depressions will appear at the joints, which can be easily filled with sickle, putty to the level of drywall. After the rough layer has dried, you can apply the final putty.

Preparation for the next stage is completed, you can proceed to the decorative finish. Now you can start painting the surface, pasting it with wallpaper, cladding with decorative tiles, panels.

Manufacturers

To date, many companies are engaged in the production of materials for creating suspended ceilings. One of the leading manufacturers of ceiling tiles are Armstrong, Selotex, Saint-Gobain, Cesal, Albes. The products of different companies are characterized by different properties.

Ceiling plates "Armstrong", "Celotex", "Saint-Gobain" are made using mineral fiber and cellulose, so they are quite durable. But such ceilings can be deformed after impact, they must be installed very carefully. Materials for the ceiling "Saint-Gobain" are softer, they are quite resistant to external influences. Soft ceilings are easier to transport and install, they are not prone to deformation.

The color scheme and texture of materials varies widely, companies present a large assortment so that everyone can choose the best option for decorating their premises. White is considered a classic option, it is often used to decorate false ceilings in offices.

Manufacturing companies produce ceiling slabs with curly elements, roughness. Such ceilings can be favorably emphasized using the right lighting. Statistics show that the majority of buyers choose the classic white color, so the majority of manufacturers produce white materials.

It is worth noting that such surfaces can be painted, giving them other shades.

Trying to satisfy the needs of all customers, manufacturers produce different groups of materials that differ in functionality, quality and price. Large companies divide products into groups, giving recommendations on the destination area.

For example, the well-known company Armstrong produces suspended ceiling materials in four main areas, each of which has an additional classification (by smoothness, color, pattern type, etc.).

Their products fall into the following categories:

"Basis";
"Prima";

"Functional";
"Exclusive/Designer".

Each of these groups has its own characteristics. The Basis group is considered the cheapest and simplest. These ceilings are made of simple materials, they are not resistant to water. Such plates cannot be hung in rooms with high humidity in order to avoid the formation of swelling on the ceiling, sagging.

The Prima group is designed for the climate of Central and Eastern Europe, these products tolerate high humidity well, retaining their original shape. They are slightly more expensive than the basic ones, however they are in great demand.

The "Functional ceilings" group is designed for installation in places with certain conditions, they have additional properties. For example, improved soundproofing properties due to the presence of microperforations or looseness of the structure. Special hygienic ceilings are also produced, which can be mounted in hospitals, child care facilities. Such models are distinguished by the presence of a special vinyl film that kills bacteria well.

Functional also include models with increased moisture resistance, capable of absorbing moisture, while not losing properties. Naturally, such materials are significantly more expensive than conventional ones.

The "Designer" group represents elite models developed by designers. They are of high quality and unique appearance.

Installation of a suspended ceiling covering and its decorative finishing do not require certain skills, anyone can do it. These procedures are of medium complexity, accuracy and accuracy are important when performing work.

If you follow a few tips and tricks, you can greatly simplify the work and spend the minimum amount of time on creating and installing the ceiling:

Choose quality materials. Better to pay a little more than to get back to work soon. Do not forget that this design is durable, a well-made ceiling can last for many years without reconstruction. It does not have to be cleaned every month.
When counting the amount of materials, you can use special programs on the Internet. You will significantly reduce the time for calculations by using the correctly measured length and width of the ceiling.

Before starting installation, be sure to sketch out an exact layout layout.
Approach the preparation stage seriously so that you do not have to interrupt the process to search for materials or re-measurements. As the saying goes, measure twice, cut once.
Do not rush to install drywall, let it lie horizontally for a while.
To ensure sound insulation, it is worth using mineral wool.
To prevent the loss of properties of drywall, you should work with it in dry rooms.

Beautiful examples in the interior

Glossy stretch ceiling looks very stylish. It adds shine and chic to the room.

Satin ceiling coverings are distinguished by their originality. Come up with a fun design and start bringing it to life.

Multi-level stretch ceiling has long been a leader. You can create various designs with your own hands.

Modern suspended ceilings delight with the splendor of shapes and shades, make the house more spacious and brighter. The unusual design is of great interest and makes a good impression on visitors. New building technologies help to effectively use the ceiling space. As a result, each room is interesting and unique in its own way.

To date, the market offers an abundance of affordable materials for finishing the ceiling. Experimenting with shape and color, you will be able to implement the most unusual design ideas. This article will help you with this. She will talk about the technology of installing a plasterboard suspended ceiling and teach you to understand the intricacies of work.

Preparing for the installation of a false ceiling

Installing a suspended ceiling is a technically painstaking job that requires preparation. Purchase building materials, collect the necessary tools. Everything must be prepared so as not to be interrupted in the process of work.

Necessary tools and materials

drill with a set of drills;
building level;
hydraulic level;
screwdriver;
pliers;
square;
hacksaw;
hammer;
roulette;
marker;
knife.

Materials:

drywall sheets;
guide profiles;
metal profiles;
profile hangers;
self-tapping screws for metal;
concrete anchors;
brackets;
dowels.

False ceiling installation

Hinged structures consist of a metal or wooden frame, on which drywall sheets are attached. Thanks to hinged technologies, it is easy to give the ceiling any shape. Overlappings are single-level and multi-level.

The first option is the simplest and most prefabricated, its main task is to hide the unevenness of the old ceiling. The second option is more complex and time-consuming, its purpose is not only to mask defects, but also to perform a decorative function. Installation of any hinged structure takes place according to the same scheme and is divided into several important stages.

Ceiling markings

At the first stage, it is necessary to make markings on the surface of the old floor. Mark the height of the future ceiling, as well as the location of the frame.

Determine the lowest corner of the room. Measurements are taken with a tape measure, applied to the corners of the room. When the minimum level is found, make a mark on the wall, stepping back 5 cm from the ceiling. If you plan to install lighting in the form of built-in lighting, step back 10 cm.
Transfer the mark made to all other sides. Use the hydraulic level, it can be made from a thin hose. This is a handy tool, but you will need an assistant to work with it.
Now connect the marks on the wall. Use a dyeing cord, but if there is no such tool, take a long and even bar. On it, draw horizontal lines around the entire perimeter.
Attach the guides to the wall and make marks using a drill. The profile has pre-drilled mounting holes. Drill a recess for the dowels through them.
Glue the sealing tape to the back of the rails. It is needed to dampen vibrations, this will help prevent cracks. Then attach the profile to the wall with dowel nails.
Make parallel lines on the ceiling for the longitudinal support bars. The width of a standard drywall is 120 cm, so the distance between the profile should be 60 cm. This will securely fix the sheet on the planks.
Draw marks for hangers. Mark points in 50 cm increments on the lines of the ceiling profile. They are installed so that the profile structure in the middle of the ceiling does not sag.

Frame installation

At this stage, a metal frame is installed. According to the marks made, the ceiling profile and suspensions are attached. The work is done carefully so that the base is even.

Insert the longitudinal strips into the groove of the guides. The distance between them should be 60 cm. The profile is three meters long, if the length is not enough, attach another bar to it and join them with a special bracket. The total length of the longitudinal profile should be less than the length of the room by one centimeter.
Attach the hangers to the ceiling along the profile in 50 cm increments. Fixation is done with anchor bolts, which, unlike dowels, hold well and do not fall out of the holes.
Proceed to align the ceiling strips, for this it is convenient to use a cord. Stretch it by tying it to the outermost profiles. On this cord you will make a single flat plane.
Fix the profiles on the hangers with metal screws. Bend the excess pieces outward until they stop.
Attach the transverse pieces of the profile to the longitudinal strips in increments of 60 cm. For the screed, use the “crab” brackets that are installed in the marked places. Fix the transverse profile with tongues protruding from the crab.
Bend the bracket flags towards the slats and screw the small self-tapping screws into them. At this stage, the installation of the profile is completed. Now the frame is ready and you can start laying electrical wires.

Wiring

After completing the installation of the hinged frame, begin to conduct electrical cables. It is recommended to make an external gasket. To prevent accidental ignition of the ceiling, all wiring must be protected by a metal box or corrugation.

Mark up the future cable route. It should run along the wall from the switch with access to the ceiling to lead to the fixtures.
Install the boxes according to the markup. If you are laying wires in the corrugation, then use clips as fasteners.
Make a wire laying in a box or tighten it into a corrugation, and then fix it on clips. Each line must have a separate box or corrugation.
When leading the cable to the locations of the lamps, leave a supply of wire 15 cm long for each.

Drywall installation

After finishing work with wiring, install drywall. Installation of the first sheet starts from the corner. It is necessary to leave a gap between the wall and drywall of 2-3 mm. The next sheet is set with an offset - in a checkerboard pattern. Drywall is fixed with metal screws in increments of 15–20 cm. The depth of the cap should not exceed one millimeter.

Mark up drywall sheets. On its surface, draw lines that repeat the location of the profile. According to these marks it is convenient to tighten the screws. It is also necessary to make a drawing of the location of the fixtures.
Bevel the edges of the sheet - they should be beveled. This is done so that the plaster penetrates well into the gap at the junction of drywall.
Screw the sheets to the profile. For convenience, you can use homemade T-shaped spacers that will hold drywall. Scroll all profile cells with self-tapping screws.

Creating holes for lights

Having sheathed the hinged profile with sheets, check the accuracy of the location of the marked holes. There may be deviations in the drawing, correct them. If everything matches the design plan, start creating holes.

Find the right hole saw for your drill. The diameter of the nozzle must be equal to the diameter of the holes.
Wear goggles to keep plaster dust out of your eyes.
Make holes in the drywall, being careful not to damage the sheet.

In the case of puttying the ceiling, there are many nuances, in order to take them into account at this stage, it is necessary to follow the technology. The joints are covered with special putties. These are especially strong compositions made for drywall sheets. Prepare the solution in small portions in order to have time to putty before setting.

After diluting the solution, begin to cover the seams. Do this with a small amount of putty, otherwise the joint will be noticeable and uneven.
After grouting, take the KURT paper tape and apply it to the seam. Press it down with a spatula so that the tape does not come out above the surface of the drywall.
When rubbing large joints, try to make a wide layer. Extras can always be removed. The wider you putty, the smoother the surface will be.
After applying the first layer to all joints, let the putty dry. This takes 10-12 hours.
After drying, grind with a sanding float all the places where the putty has been applied. After grinding, a lot of dust will remain on the surface of the ceiling. To remove it, use a vacuum cleaner or a wide brush.
Prime the entire ceiling. This is done because the base after sealing the seams has become heterogeneous. Drywall and putty absorb moisture differently. Therefore, it is necessary to equalize the absorbency. To do this, use a primer.

Ceiling putty

The ceiling is the most critical place in the repair. It is always in sight and must be perfect, without cracks and bumps. On a ceiling with a high-quality surface, unevenness is not visible with side lighting.

To achieve the ideal, apply the first layer of putty in one millimeter. This will help to remove all the irregularities of the ceiling. The second layer is applied with a finely dispersed vinyl-based putty. It penetrates well into micropores and makes the surface smooth.

Backlight setting

After the completion of the plaster, it remains to mount the spotlights. To do this, remove the wires from the drilled holes, rub the ends and put on the terminals. Then connect to the lamp and insert it into place. It is securely fixed thanks to spacer plates.

When creating a suspended plasterboard ceiling, each of the stages is important. This article details how to create a single level slab. By following the basic rules and technologies, you will be able to make a wonderful and durable ceiling on your own.

Video: installation of a two-level suspended plasterboard ceiling

Plastering uneven ceilings is too time-consuming and expensive. Much easier to make them hanging. Such ceilings can be additionally insulated or laid in them with soundproofing material.

False ceiling installation

Suspended ceiling structures can be made from:

Drywall;

Wooden slats (lining): as a rule, they are used for finishing rooms with high humidity (baths, saunas, etc.);

Cassette devices made of chipboard, MDF, gypsum, polyurethane foam, etc.

Suspended ceilings with sound insulation

When installing suspended ceilings, a special frame is used, assembled from aluminum or wooden profiles. With a slight surface roughness and low ceilings, the usual gluing of sheet material without the use of a frame is allowed. But today we will consider the classic installation method using profiles.

Required Materials

For ceilings use medium thickness drywall- 9.5 mm is enough. When installing small sheets, there will be more joints, so it is better to take standard ones with a size of 2500x1250 mm.

In addition to drywall, we need two types of ceiling profiles:
ceiling guide (PNP) in the form of the letter "P": used to fix the frame to walls and ceiling;

Ceiling (PP): it will be screw drywall, resembles the shape of the letter "C", its edges are slightly bent.

Comparison of ceiling and guide profiles

There are several types of fasteners with which profiles screwed to the ceiling. But for mounting a single-level frame, we will use only the simplest of them, called direct hangers. Outwardly, they look like a strip of metal with many holes. Such a simple design allows you to position the profiles strictly horizontally, thus leveling the ceilings. The suspension is first bent in the shape of the letter "P". Then they attach its crossbar to the ceiling, and the side parts to the profile. Excess metal is cut off or simply bent to the side (see photo below).

Appearance of direct suspension

To connect the profiles to each other, we will also need special fasteners, called "crabs". They give the necessary rigidity and strength to the structure.

Crab mount

Advice! Experts recommend using not self-tapping screws with plastic dowels for attaching profiles to the ceiling, but more reliable ones. wedge anchors with metal spacer. The profiles are connected to suspensions and to each other with 9 mm self-tapping screws. The drywall is attached with 25mm wood screws.

wedge anchor

Installation of profiles for single-level ceilings

So, we will describe in detail how to make a false ceiling with your own hands. Installation of the simplest single-level structures is not particularly difficult:

1. To begin with, the construction level is planned line false ceiling location. It should lag behind the top by at least 27 mm, that is, by the thickness of the profile.

Wall marking

2. Then, with a step of 60 cm, on the ceiling strictly perpendicular to the walls are drawn profile fastening lines.

Ceiling markings

3. The first to be attached to the dowels along the lines marked on the walls guide profile (PNP).

Guide mount

4. The horizontal position of the remaining profiles is verified by a cord stretched from wall to wall.

A cord is pulled across the profiles

5. Then it is mounted along the fastening lines ceiling profile (PP). It is inserted into the guide (PNP).

Connection principle

6. The profiles are fastened together with 9 mm self-tapping screws.

Profile connection

7. To increase their length are used profile segments or special extensions in the form staples. Cut it with scissors for metal.

Profile extension

8. At the intersections they are additionally strengthened with "crabs". Connection fixed self-tapping screws. For this, special holes are provided in the "crabs".

Connection "crabs"

9. If necessary, communications, heat and noise insulation materials are laid in the finished frame.

Frame for single-level suspended ceilings

Important! The distance between the profiles must be drywall width. When using non-standard sheets, it is necessary to calculate it in such a way that the edges of two adjacent sheets fall only to the center of the profile(see photo).

The edges of the sheets should only fall on the center of the profile

Drywall fixing

It is more convenient to sheathe the frame with drywall together - one person will hold the sheet, and the second one will fasten it:

1. Drywall is fixed with the front side out - it is pasted over with better quality paper. For ordinary sheets it is white, for moisture resistant sheets it is green.

2. Fasten drywall starting from the very far corner.

Drywall fixing

3. The sheets are screwed to the metal frame with self-tapping screws in increments of about 30 cm. About 60 pieces will be needed on a standard sheet.

4. You don’t need to place the screws too close to the edge - otherwise the drywall will crumble and the fasteners will fall out.

5. To avoid deformation of the sheet, screw it to the frame only edge to edge.

6. As we have already indicated, the edges of the sheets must necessarily lie on the profile.

7. Drywall should be staggered (" in a run”) so that the seams of the sheets do not match.

Fastening "off the beaten path"

8. So that the screws are not visible, they must be slightly (1-1.5 mm) drowned in cardboard. In the future, these holes are puttied.

Self-tapping screws are only slightly recessed into the cardboard

9. It is more convenient to fasten self-tapping screws with the help of a nozzle on a screwdriver, which will not allow the self-tapping screw to go too deep and significantly increase the speed of work.

Nozzle for drywall on a screwdriver

10. Using a drill with a nozzle in the finished skin, make holes for the lamps. Insulated wires are brought out.

11. To seal joints and holes for self-tapping screws, sheets are glued with sticky sickle(mesh plastic tape), and then puttied.

Puttying joints

Suspended ceilings, in addition to the decorative function, also have practical benefits - they completely hide the ceiling, all its flaws, wiring and irregularities. Installing a false ceiling does not take much effort, you can mount it yourself.

The ability to hide the ceiling

The most important thing is why they pay attention to suspended structures. The surface does not need to be leveled, there is no need to make separate niches for the wires, everything can be hidden.
But what is a plus, at the same time and a disadvantage.
The false ceiling takes up space, due to it your room will be at least 5 cm lower. Installation in small rooms is associated with their even greater reduction. You can cope with this with the help of mirror or glossy surfaces. This will help visually expand the space.

Suspended frame structure

Its installation is not difficult. Anyone can handle this. Rails, cassettes or plasterboard sheets are attached to the frame. This shouldn't be a problem either. You do not need a specific tool or knowledge.

Care

Periodically wiping is sufficient. But the plasterboard ceilings will require updating. They need to be painted over time.

Strength

Depends on the chosen material. If we talk about metal slats, then they have little to fear. But plastic and drywall are afraid of strong blows.

All materials are refractory and do not support combustion. In addition, the price of any suspended structure will be lower than other types of expensive finishes.

What are suspended ceilings made of?

The types of suspended ceilings differ in the materials used, the fasteners for the false ceiling are the same - the frame.

One of the most common types of suspended ceilings is plasterboard ceilings. Drywall is not afraid of heat, like plastic. It does not deform from closely spaced lamps, so their choice is much wider.

In appearance, drywall constructions are in no way inferior to stretch ceilings. You can create structures from one or more levels. With or without a pattern, in any color.
However, drywall does not tolerate moisture. They prefer not to install it in the kitchen or in the bathroom. If you still install, then you need to treat the surface with a moisture-repellent composition. The surface of drywall must be periodically updated with painting.

Slatted or panel ceilings. Rails can be made from three materials: wood, plastic and metal.
Plastic slats are one of the most budgetary types of finishes. But they are not used very often. It's all about their appearance: they look quite simple. Plastic will not last long, over time it will begin to turn yellow. It is worth choosing not the cheapest panels, and then your ceiling will look better, but then PVC panels will not belong to budget types of finishes. Plastic is not afraid of wet rooms, but it is better to protect it from direct contact with water.

Metal rails. They are made from steel or aluminum. The second option is more common. Aluminum is indifferent to water, corrosion, temperature changes, high and low temperatures. This is a good option for a bathroom, hallway or kitchen. The surface of the rails is matte, glossy or mirror. Such ceilings may take centimeters from the ceiling, but they visually increase the space due to their texture.
Wooden slats can hit your wallet hard.
Wood remains one of the most expensive materials. Its appearance does not differ in variety, but it is completely environmentally friendly and safe. You can actually install it everywhere, it all depends on the type of wood and the amount you are willing to pay.
Along with the rails are cassette ceilings. In principle, they do not differ in the type of materials, only in appearance.

Surface pretreatment

Do-it-yourself installation of a false ceiling is simple and does not require many costs. But, despite the fact that the false ceiling design hides the ceiling completely, it is impossible to do without preliminary work. The amount of work depends on your desire. You can make major repairs or just prime the surface.

The first stage of work is the removal of all fixtures. Remember to turn off the electricity before work. Remove all lighting fixtures. Secure the wires with electrical tape at the location of the future location of the devices. Ceiling work involves dirt and dust, so cover all the furniture and the floor with a film.

Surface preparation is necessary. If you do not do this, subsequently the debris will fall on new materials, mold and fungus can spread to the finishing floor.

To prepare you need:

Remove old coating. This is an optional item, but the longer you have old paint and wallpaper, the more difficult it will be to remove;
Wipe off old stains. This is also not necessary, but the same principle works: the longer, the more difficult;
Repair cracks and holes;
Ceiling primer. Priming the ceiling is a must, regardless of your coverage. The primer will save you from the appearance of mold and fungus.

You can remove old wallpaper or whitewash with a warm soapy solution. Simply dampen the entire surface with water and remove the coating with a cloth. If a rag does not help, then use a spatula. If this does not help, then use chemicals.

You can remove old paint with a special solution that you can buy at any hardware store. There is a more budget option - to beat it with a hammer.
Stains can be removed with alcohol or gasoline, depending on their origin. Mold and mildew are removed with baking soda or vinegar. If folk remedies did not help you, then try buying special substances with a more aggressive composition in the store.

Holes are sealed with putty. For larger ones, you can additionally use mounting foam. Cracks can be removed with silicone sealant.
After all the above work, the turn for the primer. The choice of primer is not fundamental, the main thing is that it is resistant to moisture and contains substances against the formation of mold. Apply the primer in several layers. The final surface must be smooth.

Necessary materials and tools

The false ceiling frame consists of profiles and suspensions. To calculate the required length of the profile, you just need to add the length of all four walls.
Take a little more profile just in case. Hangers are fixed to the ceiling at a distance of 100 cm from each other. Calculate by area how many you need them. The material for the frame is calculated according to the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. It must be divided by the area of the material, no matter what you choose tiles, slats or cassettes, everything is calculated the same. Also take the material in reserve, in case something gets damaged in the process.

The frame is installed on dowels and screws. They are located at a distance of 40 cm. Do not forget to buy them in the right quantity. If you install the ceiling in the bathroom, it is better to buy special screws so that they do not rust later. The installation of rails and cassettes takes place directly in the frame, but the GKL sheets are attached using self-tapping screws. Therefore, if you install them, buy more. The rails are attached with tires. In general, when choosing, try to buy already assembled kits from one manufacturer. So you get rid of the problem that one type of material did not fit another.

From the tools you will need a screwdriver, since you will have to screw in a lot of screws, it is difficult to do it manually. To make holes for mounting, you need a puncher.
In the process, you will need to cut the material. The profile and metal slats can be cut with a grinder, metal shears or a hacksaw. Plastic can be cut the same, but it is imperative that the teeth are small. Drywall can be cut with a regular construction knife.

How to install a suspended ceiling

Suspended ceiling is installed according to the markup. To apply it, you will need a tape measure, a laser or water level, a pencil or a rope. When marking, it is better to use a laser level, it will do everything more accurately and quickly. Just place it on a flat surface and adjust the settings as needed. Draw a horizontal line over the lasers.

If there isn't one, then don't worry. You can also measure manually. To do this, measure each corner from floor to ceiling with a tape measure. This is necessary to determine whether all your angles are the same. If not, then in the lowest corner at a distance necessary for the design, set a mark. Then, in each corner from the floor at the same distance, set three more marks. Connect them together with a rope and draw a line along it with a pencil.
To determine how much you need to retreat from the main ceiling to the finishing one, you need to know the length of the lighting fixtures. The width of their body is the required distance.

Hanging ceiling installation

How are suspended ceilings made? First, install the frame. To do this, you need to fix the guide profile to the wall with self-tapping screws. The carrier is inserted into the guide. You need to place the holes at a distance of 40 cm. Install suspensions and tires. The frame is ready. Further work is already directly with the material. Reiki or cassettes are installed in the profile until they click. This fills the entire ceiling. GKL sheets are attached to self-tapping screws.