DIY metal ship models drawings. Drawings of plywood ships: materials, preparation for work, cutting and assembly of parts, finishing

In modeling, plywood is the most demanded material. This is due to high quality indicators, as well as ease of operation. Plywood sheets are very easy to cut, quite simple to process. Using a suitable scheme (drawing), you can make ships out of plywood with your own hands.

Plywood is a versatile material that can be easily cut and processed in various ways, therefore it is with plywood patterns that it is recommended to start your acquaintance with modeling.

Building a ship yourself is a pretty interesting experience. But in order to start performing complex models, you need to practice on the lighter ones.

Materials and tools

To create stucco patterns on board the ship, you need to prepare your own composition, from which you can form reliefs. The following tools and materials must be prepared for the solution:

• wood dust;
• PVA glue (on average, one ship model can take about half a liter of glue);
• plasticine for creating small irregularities and patterns;

Materials and tools used during ship simulation:

Birch plywood will provide a minimum amount of chips when sawing.

• plywood of the required thickness;
• Super glue;
• sandpaper for surface treatment;
• nylon thread;
• jigsaw for cutting out parts;
• construction knife;
• wood for the mast. It is better to use pine, as it is much easier to process;
• dye;
• small brushes;
• Chinese sticks;
• sail fabric;
• a thread;
• pencil ruler.

Modeling wood should be soft, not fibrous. The most popular options are cedar, linden, walnut. All wooden blanks must be perfectly flat, without knots and damage. It can be used as an additional element to create decorative pieces. Also, wood can be used to create the main elements of the model, such as the deck, hull.

Plywood in modeling is the most demanded material. In such a direction as modeling, birch or balsa plywood is most often used. This is due to the fact that these types of wood practically do not chip during sawing. To make a boat out of plywood, it is necessary to use sheets with a thickness of 0.8-2 mm.

A simple diagram of a plywood ship model.

Veneer - sheet material, very thin, made of valuable wood species. In most cases, veneer is used as a facing material. They are pasted over products that are made of inexpensive material.

Fasteners will perform not only the main task of fastening parts, but also perform a decorative role. To create a model of a boat, you need to prepare thin chains (several sizes can be used), laces, threads, copper or brass nails. In order to transfer the drawing from the sheet to the plywood, it is best to use tracing paper and a pencil. This will make the drawing detailed. Use glue to hold the plywood together. Fine detailing can be made by metal casting, use polymer clay, or independently prepare a solution from wood dust and PVA glue. After complete drying, such a mass is very durable, and it can be painted in the desired color.

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Preparatory work

If this is the first time a plywood ship is being modeled, it is recommended to purchase kits in which all the details have already been cut and processed. But its cost can sometimes be quite high. Therefore, with a great desire and diligence, experience can be gained in the process of carrying out work on assembling your ship. Modeling, like other types of work, necessarily begins with the preparatory stage. The first thing to start with is what kind of ship will be modeled. To begin with, it is worth looking at the various drawings and finished works, this will greatly facilitate the choice of the model.

After examining the entire drawing, it is worth checking the availability of all the necessary materials and tools to complete the work. Modeling ships is a jewel case. It takes a lot of time and perseverance.

At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to make paper or cardboard templates for all parts. After that, they are all transferred to plywood. At this stage, the preparatory stage of work can be considered completed.

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Manufacturing of parts

In order to make all the parts, cut them out of the plywood sheet, you must use the appropriate tool. You can use a hand jigsaw for work, but if possible, it is better to use an electric model option. The use of the second option will significantly reduce the time for the manufacture of all elements. This is especially true for the smallest details.

The sawn workpieces are processed with a file, removing chips and burrs.

In order to cut out a part, a hole is made in the plywood, into which the jigsaw file is located. It is worth cutting out all the details very carefully, while observing all the contour boundaries, since inaccurately cut details can then spoil the appearance of the entire ship. Each sawn-off workpiece must be filed from the ends. In the process of such stripping, it is necessary to remove a small part of the chamfer, where chips and burrs have formed. When cutting, this moment cannot be avoided.

You need to assemble the ship when all the parts are cut out and the ends are processed. This will allow you to do assembly work without being distracted by cutting out missing parts.

The element of water at all times attracted desperate travelers, brave sailors and fearless pirates. Sailing on the waves and watching new horizons open up in front of you, this is the most amazing thing that can be in life. In order to set sail, you need to build a ship with your own hands. Let it not be as huge as the Titanic, the main thing is that you created it yourself.

Everyone probably has (or had) a favorite thing to do, to which it is not a pity to devote their free time. Someone has a collection of stamps, someone is engaged in photography, someone loves to cook, knit, draw, ... and so on, you can't list everything.
One of my favorite things, or simply a hobby, are. This news is dedicated to them.

After that, you can leave the "skeleton" to dry and start covering the deck.
Everything is not as easy as it seems from the outside - the covering boards must be laid in a certain pattern. You can, of course, just lay long planks, but it will look quite rough ...

After that, the decks (or deck, if it is one) are put in their place and the first hull begins. Usually a ship model is covered two times - the first skin is rough, it is made of very soft wood.
One by one, the planks are attached to the "skeleton" with glue and small nails, which will come off when the glue dries.

The work is delicate, the planks are not always easy to bend and may break.

After painstaking work, the entire body is covered with the first layer!

Now you need to close the gaps between the planks and sand it properly.

Then you can proceed to the front paneling. You need to be extremely careful with it - the slats are much thinner than rough ones and break easily.

The technology is the same - glue and carnations.

Can you imagine the amount of work (the ship in the photo, Victory, 1300 mm long.) ...

I described the assembly of the HMS Victory model in 17 reviews, everyone who wants to read is welcome!

And this is a model of, probably, the most famous ship in the world - "Santa Maria" (in the process of assembly, of course).

After the second paneling is finished and sanded, everything can be varnished. And then we will deal with the deck - ladders, boats, hatches, ...
Almost all parts are made of wood and brass. There is no plastic in principle.

Exterior detailing is equally important.
Well, after the hull is finished, we proceed to the rigging.
But before that you need to install masts and yards.

Each knot is tied by hand (those same sea knots :-).
And these knots are simply uncountable!
The sails must be pre-flashed. At Santa Maria they still had to be painted.

If the set does not include a stand, then here you can give free rein to your imagination.
For example, I made a stand for Santa Maria from a piece of oak parquet.

And only when the very last knot is tied, the ship can be considered ready!
You can proudly put it on the most prominent and enthusiastic "Wow!" guests, looking down, say "Yes, I did it myself ...".

Wooden ships and sailboats

For many, prefab ship models are more than just a hobby and fun. This is, first of all, an opportunity for self-expression, a way to realize your talents and, at the same time, to be distracted and indulge in dreams. Regardless of whether it is a combat ship, a modern yacht, or a military galleon - each ship embodies all the power and splendor of the sea.
Desktop wooden ships have excellent decorative qualities, it is impossible not to admire them. Therefore, wooden ship models always become a worthy decoration of any room, be it a study or a home living room.

To work on each ship model, you will need enviable patience and accuracy. But, the result of painstaking work is the assembled model, which will become a well-deserved object of your pride.

Wooden ship models for beginners

CONSTRUCTO
Universal ship series: 80620 1/85 St. Helena
Article: CNSB0620 80620 1/85 St. Helena
The two-masted schooner St. The Helena was launched in 1814 and served as a link between England and its eastern colonies. This set is a 1/85 scale replica of a schooner and is recommended for modelers with little experience.

Universal ship series: 80618 1/135 Bluenose II
Part number: CNSB6118 80618 1/135 Bluenose II
Wooden model of the ship, fishing schooner Bluenose II. Launched in 1921 in Nova Scotia. This fishing schooner has become famous after numerous victories in classic races. Recommended for novice modelers.

Universal ship series: 80615 1/100 Flyer
Article: CNSB6115 80615 1/100 Flyer

Wooden model of a pilot ship in 1/100 scale, Flyer. This American merchant ship, which was renowned for its speed characteristics, was converted into a battleship, and then used as a coast guard ship during the American Revolution and the War of 1812. This is a kit of a universal series from Constructo, quite easy to assemble and recommended for novice modelers.

Universal ship series: 80616 1/100 Union
Article: CNSB6116 80616 1/100 Union
Model of the brigantine Union, a two-masted sailing ship with square sails. Such ships were very common during the 18-19 centuries, they were used as merchant or light warships, and also served as coast guard ships at a short distance from the coast. The model is recommended for novice modelers.

Universal ship series: 80702 1/55 Albatros Sailing Ship
Reference: CNSB0702 80702 1/55 Albatros Sailing Ship

Albatros is a model of a sailing ship built in 1899 on the stocks of Holland, also known as the Clipper of the North Sea, one of the oldest sailing ships still sailing, one of the main advantages of which is the ability to stay at sea in extremely adverse weather conditions.

Universal ship series: 80703 1/80 Carmen Spanish Sailing Ship
Reference: CNSB0703 80703 1/80 Carmen Spanish Sailing Ship
Model of a sailing ship, a reproduction of the Spanish frigate The Carmen, built in 1861. Recommended for modelers with little experience.

ARTESANIA LATINA
Universal ship series: 20145 1/35 Bremen Krabben Kutter
Reference: LATB2145 20145 1/35 Bremen Krabben Kutter

The first shrimp fishing vessel appeared in 1898 and was virtually intended to operate in the North Sea, these vessels eventually began to be equipped with 8-10 strong engines and were about 10 meters in length. Bremen Krabben Kutter, a small shrimp fishing vessel built in 1953 at a small shipyard in Germany.

Universal ship series: 22299 1/80 J.S. Elcano w / ABS Hull & Tools
Article: LATB2299 22299 1/80 J.S. Elcano w / ABS Hull & Tools
J.S. Elcano, replica of the Spanish naval academy four-masted training vessel, launched at Cadiz on March 5, 1927.

Universal ship series: 19004 1/25 Bounty Jolly
Reference: LATB1904 19004 1/25 Bounty Jolly

A wooden replica of a 1/25 scale model of a boat, Bounty Jolly, from the notorious historic ship HMS Bounty, which became famous for the feat of people who covered a distance of 3,600 miles on three small ships across the ocean.

Universal ship series: 22400 1/35 Mare Nostrum Fishing Trawler w / Tools
Code: LATB2400 22400 1/35 Mare Nostrum Fishing Trawler w / Tools
The Latina Mare Nostrum is a 1:35 scale entirely wooden replica of a typical Mediterranean fishing trawler, built in the harbor of the Spanish city of Arenys de Mar. Trawler assembly kit complete with tools.

Universal ship series: 22170 1/50 Marie Jeanne
Reference: LATB2034 22170 1/50 Marie Jeanne

Universal Ship Series: 22445 1/35 Bremen Fishing Cutter w / Tools
Code: LATB2445 22445 1/35 Bremen Fishing Cutter w / Tools

Large-scale replica of the Bremen Krabben Kutter shrimp fishing vessel, a small vessel built in 1953 in a small shipyard in Germany. A set for assembling a ship with tools.

Common tweaks for all materials

What is the color of the sails?

People who have seen sailing ships only in the form of souvenirs and pictures will be surprised at the topic of this article. How so, they will say? The sails are white, well, or red like in "Scarlet Sails" by Alexander Green. And in fact, almost every nation that built sailing ships had sails quite different in color. And because of this, disputes about the "correct" color of the sails do not stop among ship modelers.

Manufacturing of hulls for sailing ships.

The construction of the hull of a sailing ship is significantly different from the construction of its model. For example, on the model, they do not make double (inner and outer) skin, do not put all the frames, of which there are a lot, all decks are not satisfied, etc.
Therefore, there is no need to similarly consider the structure of the hull of a real ship, first of all, you need to dwell on those parts of the ship's hull that the modeler is trying to make.

Manufacturing of rope coils for models.

The sails are controlled by ropes and cables. And the ends of these ropes are collected in bays, so as not to interfere, and are hung on the dowels.
This article describes one of the ways of making rope coils for hanging on the model pins.

Theory and workshop.

A series of lectures by the recognized master of modeling Boris Volkonsky.
In his lectures, the author gives a theoretical basis for ship modeling, shares many secrets and best practices in ship modeling, talks about the tools used and brings to your attention much more.

Rigging and rigging of a sailing ship.

The article describes in detail the spars and rigging of sailing ships of the 17th-19th centuries. The main proportions of the mast trees of battleships are given. It also tells about the device, the order of overlapping, the places of pulling and the thicknesses of the hemp standing rigging. The purpose and wiring of the running rigging has been thoroughly reviewed.

Sailing equipment of the ship.

The article describes the sailing equipment of ships of the 17th-19th centuries. The types of sails, their names, details and methods of attachment to the mast are considered. Methods for steering the sails are also described. One of the many ways of making model sails is described.

Calculation of the dimensions of the spars and sails.

The article provides a modern classification of sailing ships, a brief description of the manufacture of general drawings, spars and sails of models of sailing ships, methods for determining the dimensions of the spars of a model of a sailing ship, determining the area of ​​sails, determining the position of masts along the length of the model, and also describes the main details of the spars and fastening of the sails. ...

Making a showcase or How to protect a model from dust.

Once I read in a chat room (speaking in Russian, chat) a discussion about protecting models from dust. Judging by the number of participants, this topic worries many. A variety of measures have been proposed, from simply using a vacuum cleaner and a brush to putting your creations in plastic bags. It seems that all this is not effective. We ourselves, only we ourselves will save our creations from dust. After all, a showcase is like a frame for a masterpiece, both emphasizes and protects, and is aesthetically beautiful in itself.

My version of the wire rope

Engaged in the construction of models of sailing ships, in the end, any modeler will come to the moment when it becomes necessary to make high-quality rigging. It doesn't matter what material the model is made of, but high-quality rigging is always made of threads. You can, of course, use online stores to buy ready-made threads, or buy a ready-made cable machine there. But, personally, it was much more pleasant and interesting for me to make it myself.

Tying blocks

The other day, a person asked me to tell you how I tie the blocks. I explained to him in words, but agreed that it was better to do it in the form of a photo report (master classes are done by the masters, while I am still doing modest photo reports). Having made this photo report, I decided to publish it for everyone to see, I, of course, will not open America, professionals already know and know everything perfectly well, but perhaps it will be useful for beginners to see, someone will take something for themselves, someone then something will improve or change. One way or another, I will be glad if someone my (although, probably, not entirely mine, since I also learned everything from someone) will help someone.

Stitching drawings

This article will primarily be of interest to modelers who build their models "from scratch" according to drawings.
On the Internet, you can find many blueprints for ships (and not only), intended for building models from scratch. But very often, drawings are either split into many smaller sheets, or even assembled in non-graphic formats such as DJVU or PDF. I will tell you how to convert these formats to JPG or PNG in another article. For normal work with them, of course, you can print each sheet and glue it with pens, but sometimes you need to have a whole drawing in a graphic file format. Here's how to glue the parts into one whole, and I'll tell you.

Modeling nodes

I'm almost sure that many, starting to engage in modeling, knew a couple of nodes and were not aware of the variety of nodes that exists. I myself have discovered many nodes for a wide variety of conditions and places of use. It is about the nodes that will be discussed in this article. I will list those nodes that I use or plan to use in the manufacture of models.

Feng Shui sailboat

It is interesting!

What associations do you have with a sailing ship sailing on a serene sea? Most of us will say: romance, freedom, independence, adventure, striving for something new, unknown, expectation of something beautiful.

Feng Shui ship or sailboat - prosperity,
floating to your house

It is interesting!

It is not hard to guess why the ship in feng shui theory refers to the symbols of abundance and prosperity. After all, since ancient times, any arrival of a ship at the port has been associated with the arrival of goods, luxury goods and overseas curiosities. This is how the ship came to feng shui and got its main purpose - to increase the well-being and material wealth of the family. But, like every talisman in feng shui, the ship has its own maritime rules and customs, which must always be adhered to so that the peacemaking "golden sails" do not turn into a pirate ship.

For lovers of modeling, sheets of pressed and glued wood veneer have always been one of the most demanded materials. They are easy to cut, perfectly processed, drawings of ships made of plywood are easy to find on the net, and therefore it is from plywood patterns that many craftsmen begin their acquaintance with the modeling of various ships.

Making models with your own hands is a very difficult task, requiring a significant baggage of knowledge and a certain skill. In the article we will tell you only about the most basic techniques, and you will hone your further skills yourself.

Materials for work

If you want to make a small ship model, then you will need the following materials:

• Wood - cedar, linden, walnut, or other wood, preferably soft and not fibrous... Wood blanks must be even, free of knots and damage. Wood can be used both as a material for the main elements of the model (hull, deck) and for fine detailing.
• Plywood is perhaps the most demanded material... For ship modeling, either balsa or birch is used, since it is these types of wood that provide the minimum amount of chips when sawing. Model ship plywood is typically 0.8 to 2 mm thick.

Note! Beech veneer sheets of small thickness are sometimes used as an alternative to birch: although they are inferior in strength, they bend much more easily.

• Veneer - thin plates of natural wood of expensive species... As a rule, it is used for veneering, i.e. pasting a surface from an inexpensive material.
• Fasteners - fine chains, laces, threads, brass and copper studs.

In addition, we will definitely need wood glue, cardboard and tracing paper for transferring templates, etc. Fine detailing is made from metal casting. As an alternative to metal, you can use colored polymer clay.

Making a souvenir boat

Preparation for work

Any work begins with preparation, and modeling will by no means be an exception.

• First you need to decide what we will build. If you have not previously dealt with the art of ship modeling, then we recommend downloading the drawings of the ship from plywood on the network: as a rule, they contain all the necessary information and are understandable even for a beginner.

Note! Kits are available for sale that allow you to assemble a boat from ready-made parts. Beginners will be interested in such kits (although the price of most of them is very significant), but it is better to master the technology from scratch.

• After analyzing the drawing, we check if everything you need is in stock. In principle, if something is missing, you can buy it a little later, because building a ship (albeit a miniature one) is not a quick business!

• Having printed the drawing, we make templates for the main parts.
• Transfer templates to.

Cutting and assembling parts

You can cut the workpieces both with the help of a manual and with the help of an electric model jigsaw.

The latter is more expensive, but with it you will suffer less when cutting out small parts:

• We make a starting hole in the plywood sheet, into which we insert a file or jigsaw blade.
• We cut out the part, trying to move exactly along the marked contour.
• We process the sawn-off workpiece with a file, removing small chamfers at the edges and removing inevitable chips and burrs.

Advice! Working on one element (deck, sides, keel, etc.), we immediately cut out all the parts necessary for assembly. This way we will spend significantly less time, and the work will progress faster.

When everything is ready, we start assembling our ship.

• First, we put on the transverse frames on the longitudinal beam - the keel. A groove is usually provided at the bottom of each frame for attaching to a plywood keel.
• For connection, you can use standard glue, or you can use special glue mixtures intended for ship modeling.
• We attach the upper parts of the frames to the deck. For simple models, the deck is one sheet of plywood, while for complex models it can be multi-level.
• After the glue on the frames has dried, we begin to sheathe the sides with thin strips of plywood. The thickness of the material should be no more than 1.5 mm, since only in this case will we be able to bend the skin without the risk of damaging it.
• Can be heated and humidified for bending. After that, the material will bend without difficulty, and over time it will acquire a stable shape.

Note! The body for painting can be pasted over with a solid sheet. But to imitate plank sheathing, it is better to use strips up to 10 mm wide (depending on the scale).

• We fix the glued plywood with clamps and clamps and leave to dry.

Final finishing

By and large, this is where the carpentry skill ends, and the art begins.

When the body is assembled and dried, we need:

• Fabricate from thin plywood and secure deck superstructures.

• Build up the sides so that they protrude above the deck plane.
• Paste the surface of the deck with a wooden veneer or outline it with an awl, imitating the boarding.
• Make and install all the small parts like the steering wheel and steering blade.
• Fasten the masts with all additional devices (the so-called spars), set the sails and stretch this entire structure with the help of the rigging threads.

Finally, all plywood parts need to be stained and varnished. This will provide our souvenir with at least a couple of decades of preservation.

Output

Almost everyone can make a simple boat out of plywood with their own hands - enough patience and minimal skills in working with a jigsaw (read also the article). But if you want to implement a complex drawing with many small details, then you will have to work hard. This is why we advise you to start with the simplest models, gradually building up your skill!

In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic.

Similar materials

depending on the purpose of the ship model, the hull of the model can be solid - monolithic, made of wood, bone, plastic, or hollow; in this case, tin, brass, plywood, cardboard, paper are added to the previously listed materials.

In the manufacture of hulls of ship models, a wide variety of designs and technological methods are used. These methods are not similar to one another, but they all pursue the same goal - to obtain a hull that exactly corresponds to the theoretical drawing of the ship model. Therefore, no matter what method the ship modeller uses, no matter what material he uses, first of all he needs to have a theoretical drawing and, using the outlines of the frames or waterline, make templates.

MONOLITHIC CONSTRUCTIONS

Cases made from a solid material - be it wood, bone, plastic or some other material - are most often used for tabletop, demonstration, historical models.

The construction of the model body begins with processing the boards and gluing them together, if the body is wooden. Sometimes a piece of layer, mass or bone of the appropriate size is looked for for the body. The manufacturing sequence of a monolithic body is shown in Figure 94. Having processed a parallelepiped-shaped bar with an allowance against the largest overall dimensions of the model body, it is necessary to make a marking. When starting to markup, the modeller should have in front of him an accurate theoretical drawing of the model. First you need to draw a diametrical line with a thickness gauge or a sharp awl on the deck, in the bow, along the bottom and in the stern. The risks must be deep and precise. Then the lines of frames are drawn along the deck and side, the deck is outlined, the stem, stern and side line are applied. Marking a bar is a very important moment in the work of a ship modeler, and here you need to remember a good Russian proverb: “measure seven times, and cut one off”. A small mistake can lead to damage to the workpiece, all previously completed work will be wasted.

The next step in the manufacture of the case is filing the bar. First of all, the bow and stern are cut off, then they are sawed along the contour of the waterline and part of the deck is removed if the hull is made with a forecastle.

When the hull is roughly processed, they begin to shape it in accordance with the outlines of the frames. Frame templates should be cut from either plywood or thick cardboard. Rough processing of a bar can first be done with an ax, then you should use chisels, a finishing plane, a file-camp, a sandpaper. When machining the hull, control your work with the frame templates.

HOLLOW CONSTRUCTIONS

Experience shows that ship modelers rarely resort to the manufacture of one-piece, monolithic hulls. Even when installed on a model of a rubber engine, it is necessary to have free space in the housing for the location of the hooks, rubber band, propeller shaft. Therefore, modelers mainly build hollow hulls. There are many ways to build buildings, the book describes only the most common ones.

^ Papier-mâché body

That's right, it is not very easy to correctly build the hull of a ship model. Therefore, the leaders of the circles can, at first, recommend to novice modelers the construction of papier-mâché cases. First of all, you need to make a blank. It can be made of wood as described above.

You can apply another method (Fig. 95). According to the theoretical drawing or type of ssszh, it is necessary to cut out the diametrical plane and frames from 3-5-1mm plywood; cut out the grooves in the shpayngout and the diametrical plane. Having assembled this simple structure, it is necessary to fill the space between the frames with some kind of plastic material. Paraffin is suitable for this purpose. Having made a box or a cardboard box exactly to the size of the assembled plywood frame, lower the frame into it and fill it with melted paraffin. If you can't get paraffin, use plasticine, clay, alabaster. When the material has hardened, machine the outside of the blank. This is not difficult to do, since the frames, which must be cut very accurately, will control the correctness of the hull shape. After the blank of the case is ready, they start pasting it with paper. It is best to glue the body with non-glued, newsprint. The paper should not be cut with scissors, it is better to tear it with your hands, in this

In this case, the edge does not have a sharp edge, and when gluing, the layers adhere well. The prepared paper is poured with warm water for several minutes. The blank of the model's body is smeared with petroleum jelly, oil or some other fat and begins to paste over with strips of paper. To glue the paper, use potato flour paste or dextrin glue. The first two layers of paper are laid out without glue, the next - with glue. Pieces of paper should be stacked very tightly on top of each other, without gaps, so that the edges of adjacent layers are covered with a new piece of paper. The overlapping layers of paper should form a smooth surface without bulges or depressions. For small cases, 10 layers of paper are enough, this is about 1.5-3 mm; for large enclosures, the sheathing thickness should be increased to 4 mm.

After pasting the blank of the case with 3-4 layers, you need to let the paper dry for 10-12 hours, then put another 3-4 layers and dry again.

The body of the model can be made of papier-mâché in another way: a blank is made of wood, and a box is made of 5 mm plywood in overall dimensions, with a small allowance (Fig. 96). Diluted gypsum or alabaster is poured into the box. Then, liberally smearing the blank with petroleum jelly or tavo-

Rice. 96. Case from papier-mache (2nd option):

/ - lowering the ingot into liquid gypsum or paraffin: 2 - plaster mold; 3 - stacking sheets of paper; 4- finished body in cross-section; 5-plywood frame in papier-mâché body.

volume, dip it into plaster and allow the plaster to harden. When the ingot is taken out of the plaster, a shape is formed. Now it remains to lay out the form with several layers of paper, as indicated above. With this method of manufacturing the body, the outer surface directly adjacent to the plaster mold is very smooth.

Slotted body

A blank for a dugout hull of a ship model is made in the same way as in the manufacture of a papier-mâché hull. The finished blank is installed on a workbench and proceeds to hollowing out it

Rice. 97. Manufacturing of a dugout hull of a ship model (1st option):

/ - drilling with a brace; 2 - chiselling with a chisel; h - marking for drilling on theoretical frames; 4 - section along the frame.

(fig. 97). To facilitate and speed up the work, it is recommended to use a perk brace and make a series of holes. Using a theoretical drawing, you can limit yourself to drilling only along the frames. Choose a tree from the inside of the body using a chisel and a semicircular chisel.

There is one more method of making a dugout hull of a ship model (Fig. 98). The beam from which the body will be made should consist of two halves glued along the diametrical plane; a sheet of paper should be laid between the halves. Markup and initial filings]<у корпуса производят обычным способом. Затем нужно разъединить половинки и сделать пропилы ножовкой с внутренней стороны. Лишний материал выбирается с помощью стамески - сначала плоской, а потом полукруглой. Когда половинки корпуса обработаны, их склеивают. Через один шпангоут в корпус нужно врезать бимсы, на них будет крепиться палуба.

The manufacture of hollow foam cases is not difficult, but rather laborious, the cases are heavy, but the accuracy of the manufacture of the pier<ет быть очень высокой. Дерево хорошо поддается обработке и отделке.

Puff hulls

Young shipbuilders can also be offered such a variant of the model hull manufacturing (Fig. 99). Taking several boards, pre-

Rsh. 99. Manufacturing of a layered hull of a ship model:

/ - cutting out the contour of the waterline and the inner part; 2 - cut waterline; 3 - (;; waterline flitting; 4, 5, 6 - section of a glued blank; T - finished blank.

Rice. 100. Scheme of manufacturing a composite hull of a ship model (1st and 2nd options):

/ - making the bottom from a board; 2 - fastening of plywood frames and fenders; 3 - cross-section of the composite body; sheathing with thin plywood; 5-installation of bow and stern extremities, frame and stringers; 6 ~~ body sheathing with thin plywood.

they are cut and prepared for gluing. Then, from the theoretical drawing, from 3 to 5 waterlines are transferred to the boards, depending on the thickness of the boards. It is also planned how much to remove the tree from the inside. After that, with a circular hacksaw, the inner contour is first cut, and then the outer one along the waterline, necessarily with an allowance of 2-3 mm. When all the boards are cut, they are glued together and compressed with clamps. It is necessary to let the boards dry well and only then proceed to the processing of the wood. Processing is carried out with ordinary carpentry tools: chisels, planes, rasp, files, cycles.

Composite housings

The base - the lower part of the body - is made of a board in strict accordance with the theoretical drawing, then frames are cut out of plywood, fenders are placed, and thin aviation plywood 0.5-1.0 mm thick is "sewn" to them - nailed onto glue. The extremities - bow and stern - are made from solid pieces of wood.

This method of building hulls (Fig. 100) has become quite widespread among ship modelers, especially when building models with angular frame lines - high-speed, planing boats and similar types of ships. For full models with a significant cylindrical insert, this method can also be recommended.

Type-setting cases

The most widespread and rational method of making hulls for ship models is the typesetting method, which is widely used by ship modelers. Methods for building type-setting hulls are shown in Figures 101, 102. The technology for building a hull using this method is to some extent similar to the existing methods of building real ships. The work begins with cutting out the frames and making the bow and stern ends. Then the set is installed on a marked block - a kind of slipway, the place where the hull of the ship model will be assembled. Having installed the extremities and frames, you need to connect them with a keel beam - keelson - and side beams - deck stringers. Then they begin to nail in pre-prepared slats 3-4 mm thick. Place pieces of cardboard or plywood under the nail heads. This is necessary in order not to damage the model body when pulling out the nails. All parts are assembled with glue. When the glue dries well and grabs the slats to the frames, the nails are pulled out with pliers. When building type-setting hulls, instead of rails, thin aircraft plywood and veneer can be used as cladding. In this case, it is recommended to install one or two side stringers in addition to the fenders.

For cladding, you can use thin cardboard or thick drawing paper. For some hulls of high-speed planing boats, it is possible to apply a covering of the hull with a cloth on waterproof glue of the "AK-20" type.

The description of the methods of building hulls for ship models would be incomplete if we did not talk about the manufacture of metal hulls.

Metal cases

Manufacturing of tin hulls is reminiscent of the construction of real ships; if we bear in mind that the thickness of the skin on small modern ships is 6-8-10 mm, then on a model that is 100 times smaller than a real ship, the skin in thickness should be equal to 0.06-0.1 mm. Such tin is difficult to find, so you have to limit yourself to the available tin from cans; it is quite suitable for making a metal case. Work should begin with the manufacture of a blank of a wooden model case according to a theoretical drawing. It is recommended to take a hard species - oak, maple, ash, beech, in extreme cases, birch. On the blank, you need to mark the theoretical frames and cut the grooves, where the frames will then be inserted. Procurement of frames is very simple. On the tin, a scribe draws a risk at a distance of 5 mm from the edge of the sheet, then after another 5 mm the next risk, and after 10 mm a new one; for this risk, the sheet is folded and the resulting strip is cut off. Then, holding the strip in a vice at the marked risk, you need to straighten the bent edges of the frame-shelf with a hammer, as shown in Figure 103. The blank of the frame is laid in the slot on the blank, and with the help of a mallet, the blank is shaped into the frame. The frame is secured with a staple made from a nail. In order for the frame not to protrude on the blank, it is recommended to make a cutout on it for the thickness of the sheet; this will ensure the smoothness of the hull contours. Having strengthened the frames in this way, you need to prepare patterns for the sheathing from paper and cut out parts of the sheathing from tin along them. The length of each sheet of sheet metal for sheathing should be such that on the bottom the sheets of the starboard side overlap the sheets of the left side by 1-2 mm, and in height the sheets should reach the edge of the deck. The sheathing sheet must be chipped over a blank, giving it the shape of the model's body in this area, and secured with thin wallpaper studs. After fixing all the sheathing sheets, you can proceed to soldering the sheets, after removing the nails with which the sheathing sheet is attached to the frames. If the joint between the two sections is not very accurate, it does not matter: add a little tin and fill in the distance between two adjacent sheets. And if one section covers the other, trim off the one that hasn't been soldered yet. It is not recommended to solder the bow and stern ends, as in this case it is difficult to remove the body from the blank. To strengthen the nasal end, it is advisable to solder the stem - a metal plate 1-1.5 mm thick. Inside the case, when it is removed from the blank, you need to solder several beams - cross-links of the same profile as the frames. Deck Sheets

decking should be joined on beams. At the extremities, deck plates should have curved edges that extend onto the sides from the outside.

A model ship's hull made of tin can be very precise in shape and more closely approximates the hulls of real ships than any other.

Model ship hull test

When the model case is ready, it should be tested for water resistance, draft, stability. For this purpose, a so-called experimental pool is being built. It is best to build a pool from roofing iron (Fig. 104). A box made of it with dimensions of 3000X700X

Rice. 104. Pool of roofing iron for model testing.

Rice. 105. Swimming pool made of plywood for small model boat competitions.

X 500 mm is enclosed in a machine connected from boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm. The legs must have a cross section of at least 60X60 mm. The height of the pool is about 750 mm. Water resistance is ensured by putting putty on all joints and carefully painting the pool inside and out. To drain the water, a piece of water pipe with a tap is provided. A rubber hose is connected to the pipe. The pool is filled from the water supply. Do not forget to put a mesh on the outlet to prevent clogging of the drain pipe.

Figure 105 shows the exterior of the pool and its main dimensions. The dimensions of the pool can be changed depending on the size of the room where it will be located, as well as the available roofing iron sheets. The idea of ​​building a plywood pool was proposed by Kuibyshev ship modelers *. A simplified pool is a flat tray about 6 thousand mm long, 1 thousand mm wide and 350 mm high. To make a pool, you need 4 sheets of 3 mm plywood and 4 boards 25-30 mm thick, 6,500 mm long.

After assembling the pool, carefully seal all grooves and joints. Cover the outside and inside the pool with hot linseed oil, let it dry, then paint it two or three times with oil paint. On the inside walls of the pool, make marks every 250 mm, 1 thousand mm away from the front wall.

The pool, when filled to a level of 250 mm, holds a little more than a ton of water. The water is drained through a hole with a rubber tube made in the back wall of the pool. When the pool is filled with water, the hole is closed from the inside with a plug.

In such a pool, competitions were held for small models of ships with rubber engines. A temporary pool can be constructed with tarpaulin. A box is made of boards according to the size of a tarpaulin or a machine. The tarpaulin is placed inside the box, the edges are attached with a rail with nails to the walls, after which water is poured. In such a temporary pool, water should not be kept for a long time. The water is discharged using a rubber tube.

* I. Aristov, Room competition in marine modeling. Military knowledge magazine No. 1, 1954, p. 20.