How to cut a sink into a countertop. How to cut a hole for a sink in a countertop with a jigsaw

The technology of installing a sink in a countertop is not an easy and rather laborious process. If the installation conditions are not observed, you can not only reject an expensive plumbing fixture, but also irrevocably spoil the surface of the countertop. This can be avoided if you follow the rules and listen to the recommendations of experts.

The main task when installing the sink in the countertop of the kitchen cabinet is to observe the geometric dimensions of the mounting hole.

But, in addition, at the first stage of planning work, you need to choose the installation method.

It depends on the design of the sink and currently the following types of installation are distinguished:

• the upper plane of the sides of the sink is below the level of the countertop. Externally this way installation looks attractive and strict. It is often used for expensive kitchen sets, since the installation technology is difficult. To implement it, you need a special tool and a sink of a certain design. The cut edges are treated with a water-repellent material.

Photo: sink below countertop level

• inset at the level of the tabletop plane. For this type of installation, it is important preliminary preparation table top surface. In the area where the sides of the sink are attached to the countertop using special tool make recesses that are equal to the thickness of the sides of the sink. The work is meticulous and precise. At the slightest mistake or misalignment, the plane will change and the whole structure will lie unevenly.

Photo: sink flush with countertop

• above countertop installation<. Это самый распространенный вид монтажа, так как он требует минимальных усилий и стандартного набора инструментов. Самостоятельная врезка мойки такого типа может осуществляться в домашних условиях, без привлечения специалистов.

Photo: sink above countertop level

How to do it at home

As an example, the most common option will be considered - installing a mortise sink above the level of a countertop made of chipboard.

All work is divided into the following stages:

• markup;
• hole cutting;
• installation;
• sealing.

But before you start, you need to prepare the optimal set of tools and consumables.

Required Tools

Before starting work, the complete set of the sink with fixing material is checked. In most cases, these are special clips that are mounted on the inner surface of the sink on one side, and on the cut end of the countertop on the other.

The kit should also include a tubular seal designed to seal the joint.

The minimum list of tools is a set of:

• construction pencil;
• measuring tool - tape measure, steel corner, level;
• drill or screwdriver (wood drill 12 mm);

Photo: screwdriver

• a set of screwdrivers - cross and slotted;
• sandpaper;
• electric jigsaw with a set of spare saw blades for wood (fine-toothed, double row).

Photo: electric jigsaw with a set of spare saw blades for wood

• knife for drywall or shoe;
• silicone;
• fixing tool - hardened wood screws.

The installation site must be free of foreign objects. Installation is best done on a countertop that has not yet been installed on the cabinet frame.

But even on an already assembled table, you can cut the hole for the sink correctly.

Markup execution

This procedure is based on the installation of a rectangular standard sink. For round and corner structures, there are certain specifics and differences in installation.

The process of marking the future place of the cut occurs according to the following technology:

• draw two perpendicular lines with a pencil. At the intersection of these segments there will be a drain;
• turning the sink over, put it on the countertop and mark the outer boundaries. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the removal of the edge of the countertop relative to the level of the cabinet doors;

Photo: circle around the contour

Important! The sink after installation should be inside the cabinet. Otherwise, it will interfere with the closing of the doors.

• having measured the width of the side of the sink, an internal contour is drawn. It is on it that the cut line will pass. For each sink, the width is individual, but usually it is within 12 mm;

Photo: marking the working building

The end result should be a cut outline,

Photo: the contour of the cut turned out

After that, all dimensions are checked again and the process of cutting a hole in the countertop begins.

Cutting a hole in the countertop

The process of cutting a hole occurs with a jigsaw. Before marking and the initial entry of the tool saw, it is necessary to make technological holes for the entire depth of the countertop.

They are made using a drill (screwdriver) with a drill for wood. The place of drilling is the corners of the internal marking.

The corners should be located in the inner plane of the cutting area, their edges only touching the cutting line.

Photo: correctly made hole.

All cutting work is carried out on the front of the tabletop. This will avoid the formation of chips on the laminated surface.

Photo: cutting a hole

Upon completion of the cutout, the self-tapping screws are removed, the cutting part of the countertop is removed from the main plane. The sink is pre-installed in the resulting hole, thereby checking its compliance with the dimensions of the plumbing device.

If after installation there is a slight backlash, then the cutting process was successful. In case of difficult installation, the cutting edges of the tabletop should be additionally processed with a jigsaw. After that, the ends are cleaned.

Photo: it is necessary to clean the ends of the cuts

slice processing

In the process of cutting a hole, irregularities, roughness and micro chips will form on the inside along the cut line.

If you neglect their processing, then in the process of using the sink, problems of the following plan may arise:

• it is almost impossible to achieve complete sealing of the unprotected part of the chipboard;

Moisture will get into this area of ​​the countertop, which will lead to the activation of rotting processes and the formation of fungal plaque. Over time, the cutting edge will become brittle, which can cause a wash level failure.

• rotting of the countertop under the influence of moisture will quickly worsen its physical and aesthetic properties and it will be necessary to replace it with a new one.

The end part of the cutout is polished with fine-grained sandpaper.

After that, you can take 2 options for applying a protective waterproof layer:

• sealant treatment. It quickly isolates the entire cut area. To do this, it is recommended to use high-quality material. However, it is not always possible to notice its absence in one or another part of the cut. Therefore, the amount of sealant on the surface should be with a margin;
• PVA glue. A more reliable but time consuming method. An evenly applied layer of glue will reliably protect the cut from moisture. But for the final hardening, you must wait 30-50 minutes.

Photo: we process the sections with PVA glue

After processing the cut, you can proceed with the installation of the sink.

Fixing the sink

Before installation, an adhesive-based tubular seal is attached to the inner mounting end of the sink.

Photo: fixing the tubular seal

On the countertop, between the cut and the outer marking line, a layer of silicone is applied.

Photo: processing the edges of the sink

Mounting elements are installed on the inside of the sides. They should not be fixed to the end - otherwise the sink simply will not fit into the hole.

Photo: mounts on the inside of the sides

Installing the sink in the countertop begins with the deepening of the part where the faucet will be attached.

Photo: installation starts from the side of the crane
Photo: press firmly on the edges of the sink

Using the level, the correct installation is checked. And the final stage is the final fastening of the fixing elements.

Photo: final fixing

This installation example is considered a classic. But in addition to countertops made of chipboard and stainless steel sinks, there are products made from other materials.

Countertops made of artificial stone

Countertops made of artificial stone are more durable than their counterparts made of chipboard. However, the main problem is the installation of built-in kitchen appliances, in particular, sinks.

In most cases, stone countertops are ordered with ready-made holes for a specific sink. But what if the countertop is already standing, but the sink under it has not yet been installed?

Photo: artificial stone sink

The best and most reliable way is to give the countertop to a specialized company that will cut the necessary hole with a professional tool.

If there is a desire to take a chance, then this work can be done using the technology described above, but instead of a jigsaw, take an angle grinder (“grinder”) and a diamond-coated concrete cutting disc.

When cutting, there will be a large amount of dust, so work is best done outside the living space.

Features of tie-in round and corner sinks

Regardless of the shape of the sink, the entire installation process will be identical to that described above.

But for round and corner structures, there are some features.

Photo: installation of a round sink

For a round sink:

• it is recommended to make several holes along the cut line in increments of 7-10 cm. This will facilitate the cutting procedure;
• Some models come with a cutout template. If not, then you can make a template yourself.

Photo: cutout for a round sink cutout template

For corner sink:

• since the angle of rotation of the cutting lines is less than 90 °, for a better passage of the jigsaw saw, several holes are made - directly in the corner connection of the lines and at a distance of 2-3 mm from it.

Granite sink

Photo: granite sink

Installation of a granite sink should be carried out only by professionals and using modern equipment.

The installation process itself does not differ from the installation of a stainless steel sink and consists of the following steps:

• table top markings;
• hole cutout;
• countertop sink installation. The joints between the granite sink and countertop must also be sealed. Fasteners are the same as in the standard designs described above.

The specifics of the installation is the absence of holes on the granite sink for mounting the drain siphon and faucet.

They are made using a drill with a special nozzle. If there is no experience in working with artificial stone, then the slightest mistake can lead to a sink defect and its marriage.

Price

The cost of installation depends on the material of manufacture of countertops and sinks. If the design is of a non-standard shape, then this will affect the increase in price.

The table shows approximate installation prices

Self-installation of a standard rectangular sink must be thought out at all stages of installation. This will help reduce the time for work, as well as significantly improve their quality.

A kitchen renovation cannot be completed until a sink is built into the countertop. In this article, we'll walk you through the step-by-step process of installing a sink in a kitchen: how to make the right markings, how to cut a hole in the countertop, and how to achieve a really competent installation of a sink.

How the sink is installed

You should only install the sink yourself if this service is not included in the countertop manufacturer's price list. At home, it is quite possible to perform such work, but attention should be paid to some non-obvious points that are known only to professional furniture assemblers.

So, the sink is installed in the countertop using the tie-in method. First, a hole is cut in the center of the array according to the exact dimensions, its edges are properly processed. Then the sink is inserted, its body is fixed to the back side with special fasteners, and the gap between the metal and the countertop is carefully sealed. At the end of the installation, the installation of fine plumbing, a sewer siphon or a waste chopper is carried out.

There are three main requirements for installing a sink: fastening strength, tight fit and thorough sealing against moisture. Most often, chipboard with a thickness of 40-60 mm is used as the basis for countertops. This material is very sensitive to high humidity, which is very typical for the washing area. Due to poor-quality installation, the edges of the hole dry out, which may require replacing the entire countertop or even the entire headset.

Marking

The sink should be centered in the middle of the depth of the countertop, offset to the left and right for the most convenient location. The distance from the side of the sink to the edge of the countertop should not be less than 50-70 mm, otherwise the sink should be moved slightly deeper. It is not recommended to indent less than 30-40 mm from the corner plinth, otherwise it will be difficult to wipe the surface in this place. When installing the sink in a corner section, it is useful to leave an indent of 100-140 mm from both walls in order to get a small space for convenient placement of household chemicals and cleaning supplies.

Some manufacturers supply their products with installation templates, some do not. If there is a template, it must be glued to the front side of the countertop, lightly wetting the surface with water. This will help avoid accidental shifting and markup without assistance. The template usually indicates the width of the side of the sink, otherwise it must be measured and marked for visual control of the porch.

If there is no template, the sink must be turned over and installed on the countertop, carefully observing the indents. The sink should be circled with a water-soluble marker and removed, and then shift the contour line inward by the width of the side. If the bowl does not follow the external contours, which occurs in sinks with a drying tray, the marking lines must be shifted a certain distance on each side. If two sinks or a waste compartment are combined in one block, a common hole is cut out under them.

How to quickly and accurately cut a hole for a sink

We note right away that with a household tool you can cut a hole only in a countertop made of chipboard or solid wood, regardless of the type of coating. Stronger materials such as silicon agglomerate require special cutting tools and fixtures.

First, you need to drill several holes in the countertop with a diameter of 10-12 mm at the marking line, but without crossing it. Usually 4 holes are drilled at diametrically opposite points of the contour or at the corners of the rectangle. Drilling must be started from the front side so as not to tear out a large area when the drill exits.

To cut a hole for a sink, you will need an electric jigsaw, on which a file with a width of at least 8 mm and a tooth length of about 1.4-2 mm is installed. It is better to choose the opposite direction of the tooth so that when sawing there are no chips on the front surface. And although the edge of the sink covers a strip of 12-20 mm from the edge, some countertop coatings behave unpredictably and give a rather long crack.

First, a hole is cut on two opposite sides, then a small plank of chipboard or wood is laid across the cut lines. It is attracted by self-tapping screws to the sawn part of the countertop and keeps it from falling when the cut is completed. After installing the bar, you must complete the cutting of the fragment and remove it. An open cut, all chips and unprotected edges are liberally treated with transparent silicone, leaving a layer of at least 0.5 mm, and allowed to dry.

Sink installation and connection

Almost all sinks are equipped with tape seals, but they are quite hygroscopic and accumulate moisture in themselves, creating conditions for the development of mold. Manual sealing with silicone sealant is required instead of standard seals.

With an indent of 1-2 mm from the edge of the hole, a silicone flagellum is squeezed out onto the countertop in a circle, the thickness of which is 2-3 mm more than the height of the sink rim. Another flagellum is applied with an indent of 10 mm from the first. Silicone should be left for 30-40 minutes until its surface stops sticking to the hands. Then the sink is installed in the hole, its edges are carefully pressed down, giving the silicone the desired shape. The sink should be tightly adjacent to the countertop around the entire perimeter, otherwise it may unscrew a little when tightening the fasteners. After 5-10 minutes, the sink must be removed and make sure that the silicone has not burst or spread. Thus, a double continuous edge is formed on the countertop, which excludes the ingress of water inside, while the sink can be easily dismantled.

Before the final installation and fixing of the countertop, it is necessary to mount fittings on it, access to which will be difficult with a bowl, that is, a mixer and an overflow hose, if any. But the siphon or chopper is much more convenient to attach to the installed sink so that it can be held during installation by the open drain hole.

To fix the sink, steel loops are provided in it, located along the contour of the bowl in an amount of 4 to 10 pieces. They are threaded with screw clamps in the form of paws, the edges of which should be oriented outward. After that, the sink is lowered into the hole and finally leveled, then the screws are tightened, firmly pressing the sides to the countertop.

Tricks of professional editing

The main difficulties in installation arise when making a hole: if the gap between the edge of the countertop and the bowl is too large, the tabs of the fasteners may unbend. If the hand is not firm, it is better not to touch the marking line when cutting, and if necessary, adjust the size with a rasp.

When the sink is pressed down, the silicone should not burst. It is better to squeeze a small drop out of the tube in advance and observe how long it takes for a sufficiently strong film to form on the surface.

The mounting screws should not be overtightened, especially with increased clearance. This leads to the fact that the sides of the sink are not pressed, but are bent upwards. A small gap between the side and the countertop can also be sealed with silicone.

Most food preparation needs to be washed. These are vegetables and fruits, meat and fish, various cereals, etc. And after eating, you need to wash dishes and cutlery, kitchen utensils. That's what the kitchen sink is for. When purchasing a kitchen sink, it is important to consider not only its aesthetic appearance, but also its practicality and functionality. And to make it convenient for the hostess to use it, it is important to know how to install a sink in the kitchen. Today we will try to figure out how to do this work on our own, without the help of outside craftsmen, thereby avoiding unnecessary costs.

How to install a sink in the kitchen: following simple recommendations will allow you to do without outside help

Types of sinks by type of installation

There are four groups of kitchen sinks depending on the type of installation and operating conditions:

Rules for installing a kitchen sink

There are a few rules to consider when installing a kitchen sink:

1. The rule of the "golden triangle": a cabinet with a sink cannot be placed next to a refrigerator or oven (water and fire are not compatible);
2. The sink should be located close to the working area where the preparation of products takes place - cleaning, cutting;
3. The sink divides the working area into 2 parts: one for dirty work, the other, clean, for serving ready-made food.

In practice, sinks are connected to the sewerage and water pipes, they are usually installed in the corner or near the wall adjacent to the bathroom. But modern technologies and building materials allow you to install it anywhere in the kitchen.

Which type to prefer - it ultimately depends on the taste of the hostess, and also on the furniture set in the kitchen. If it includes separate items and soon there will be no changes here, then you can buy an invoice. If you plan to install sectional furniture with a single countertop for the entire surface, it would be right to stop at a mortise sink. This will avoid the formation of dampness between the cabinets.

It's important to know! The optimal thickness of the countertop under the sink is 38 cm: it is the most durable and durable.

Tools needed to install the sink

If you have to work with a set with a common worktop or with separate modules that allow the installation of mortise household appliances, then you need to have the following tools with which you can install a kitchen sink with your own hands:

• jigsaw;
• electric drill;
• wood drills;
• Screwdriver Set;
• pliers;
• pencil, ruler, square;
• rubber compressor;
• silicone sealant.

Installation instructions for a built-in kitchen sink

Modern sinks, as a rule, have cardboard templates complete with fasteners to facilitate their installation. But if it is missing, we use the sink itself as a template.

In the absence of a template, we draw the outline from the sink itself

1. We place the template on an installed and already fixed countertop or on a separate module that allows the installation of mortise elements. We fix it in several places with adhesive tape, while not forgetting that the sink should not come into contact with internal elements - sidewalls and power struts.

   

   The template is fixed with adhesive tape on the tabletop, preventing contact with internal elements.

2. We mark the location of the sink on the countertop. It must be carefully thought out so that the use of the sink is convenient, the back does not get tired and water splashes do not fall on the floor. The optimal distance from the edge of the table is 5-10 cm. We outline the contour of the template or an inverted sink with a pencil. Then, stepping back 1.5 cm, we apply the second (working) contour, along which we will cut a hole.
3. We drill holes according to the marking with an electric drill. We select the drill diameter according to the width of the saw blade. It, as a rule, is standard - 10-12 mm.

   

   The diameter of the drill is selected according to the width of the saw blade

   

   A hole for washing is cut along the applied contour with a jigsaw

4. We carefully clean the resulting cut from sawdust and dust, clean the saw cut with sandpaper.
5. We install the sink in the resulting hole, check the accuracy of the drink. We look to see if the sides of the sink fit snugly against the countertop. We check at the same time the installation of the mixer, flexible hoses, because after installing the sink, it will not be so easy to install it.
6. We process the edges of the countertop inside the hole with silicone sealant, protecting it from moisture penetration.

   

   Finishing the edge of the countertop with a sealant will protect them from excess moisture.

7. We impose on the edge of the cut (on the front side of the countertop) double-sided tape, which comes with the sink. If it is not included in the kit, apply sealant again.
8. We install the sink, trying to press it tightly along the edges so that all possible voids are filled with airtight material. Next, with the help of fasteners, we attract the sink from below, and we perform this operation in stages: first, we attract the corners of the sink diagonally, but not to the very end. By the same principle, we then tighten the fixing screws in the middle. Excess adhesive tape or squeezed out sealant is removed from the countertop.

   

   We fix the sink with fasteners (view from below) so that it fits snugly against the edges of the countertop

9. We connect the installed sink to the sewer. Be sure to use a siphon, which will protect against unpleasant odors. Double-turn siphons are considered the best - they clog much less than their bottle counterparts. We connect the mixer to the water supply.
10. We check the tightness of all nodes.

    

Overhead sink installation

There are three options for installing an overhead sink:

1. Adhesive mount- the easiest option. The overhead sink is installed on a special cabinet. In this case, the sink should be wider than the underframe and its sides will completely cover the ribs of the cabinet. The ends of the underframe must be pre-treated with silicone sealant, put the sink and press down. The sink will fix well after the sealant dries. Silicone glue will protect the end of the underframe from water ingress.
2. Mounting with mounting brackets. In regular situations, the overhead sink is fixed with special fasteners that can come with it or be sold separately. First you need to screw the screws on the inside of the cabinet walls and then screw the brackets on them. Next, tighten the screws a little. The sink is installed and the mounting angle is displaced along the screw, ensuring that the self-tapping screw is fixed in the recess of the angle, and the sink is completely pressed against the underframe. Then finally tighten the fastening screws.
3. Fixing the sink with wooden blocks. In cases where the standard mount does not fit (there are defects in the table top), or there are no mounts at all, you can safely choose suitable furniture corners and wooden blocks and make your own mounting platform. The bars must be placed in the sink box. Then it is necessary to fasten four metal corners to the rails (along the perimeter of the sink). Now the design can be put on the cabinet. After that, the second part of the corner is screwed from the inside of the walls of the underframe. The height of the bars can, if necessary, be adjusted so that the top of the sink is at the same level as the rest of the cabinets.

How to fix the sink in the kitchen directly to the wall, without a pedestal? To do this, we use special brackets (they can be purchased at plumbing stores). We carry out the first marking at the selected height from the floor (about 80 cm). Then we make the second markup just below the first. The distance between the markings corresponds to the thickness of the rear wall of the sink. We get the line of attachment of the brackets.

Next, we measure the distance between the intended installation sites for special brackets on the sink. We note an equal distance on the line of attachment of the brackets. We drill holes in the wall, fasten the brackets and fix the sink.

By following simple rules, you can do a good job of installing a kitchen sink with your own hands so that it works without problems. A properly installed sink will last a long time and ensure the safety and hygiene of the countertop.

To date, there is a rich variety of all kinds of mortise (built into the countertop) kitchen sinks made of different materials, having different shapes and colors. Stainless steel sinks can be considered the most popular, inexpensive and at the same time durable type of kitchen sink. Consider how to install a stainless steel kitchen sink with your own hands, using simple household power tools. By the same principle, absolutely any mortise sinks are installed.

We will install the sink in a chipboard worktop, covered with plastic on top - the most common type of kitchen worktop. If necessary, vr e To install the sink into a countertop made of another material (for example, artificial stone), you must follow the recommendations of the manufacturer of the countertop. There are also overhead sinks that are simply put on (placed) on top of the cabinet, such sinks are considered obsolete and are used extremely rarely, will not be considered in this article.

To embed a kitchen sink, we need:

1. Pencil, tape measure, ruler, building corner, Phillips screwdriver, sharp knife.
2. Electric jigsaw with saw type Bosch T101B orT101BR.
3. Electric drill with a drill for metal with a diameter of 10-12 mm.
4. Several self-tapping screws 16-30 mm long.
5. Colorless silicone sealant (universal or sanitary).

FilesBosch T101B (top) andBosch T101BR (bottom).
They differ in the direction of the teeth: straight andreverse(reverse) respectively.

Markup.

Accurate marking is the key to a successful installation. First, you need to decide on the axis of symmetry, that is, symmetrically to what the sink will be installed. Usually, the line of the center of the bowl of the sink (for a round one - its diameter) goes along the center of the pedestal, over which the sink is installed. Other installation options are possible, depending on the specific case (kitchen set configuration). The indent from the front edge of the tabletop, as a rule, should not be less than 50 mm, from the rear - less than 25 mm. However, these figures cannot be considered universal, and depending on the size of the sink, as well as the features of the insert, the numbers may be different. We draw with a pencil on the front surface of the countertop two perpendicular axes, indicating the center of the bowl and outline the boundaries of the sink (left, right, top, bottom).

Indents from the edges of the tabletop.

We put the sink on the front surface of the countertop with the bowl up, align the sink with respect to the markings made. Carefully, without moving the sink from its place, we outline the outer contour of the sink with a pencil. Remove the sink from the countertop.

Depending on the manufacturer, a stainless sink set (d For most sinks made of artificial stone, such fasteners are not provided.) may include metal or plastic fasteners. If possible, preference should be given to metal (all-metal) fasteners, as more reliable. Before installing the fixtures on the sink, it is recommended to disassemble them (separating the parts mounted on the sink and on the countertop from each other). By snapping, parts of the mounts on the sink are installed in the corresponding metal eyelets so that the mounts protrude minimally outward - “look” into the sink.

Part of the attachment that is installed on the sink.

Accurately measure the width of the side of the sink (the distance from the outer edge of the sink to the installed fasteners), taking into account the protrusions of the fasteners. As a rule, the width of the rim of a stainless steel sink is between 10 and 15 mm.

The sink is ready to be outlined on the countertop.

Parallel to the outer contour of the sink previously applied to the countertop, we draw by hand (or using a ruler to control accuracy) another contour - the cutting line - inside (closer to the center of the sink), indented by the width of the sink side minus 1-2 mm. The sink should freely enter the future hole, let's say a play of up to 2 mm on each side.

Cutting line marking.

Cutting a mounting hole in the tabletop.

In one (with a round sink) or several places (in the corners of the marking, with a rectangular sink) we make a through hole with a 10-12 mm drill so that the future hole is close to the cut line, but does not touch it (it was closer to the center of the sink) . Drilling is necessary from the front surface of the countertop! We get a hole (s) for the file to enter.

With the help of an electric jigsaw, exactly along the cut line, we perform a closed cut. To keep the inside of the countertop in place (not fall down), you need to screw screws into the slot from time to time, which will act as temporary fasteners (wedges). We insert the sink into the countertop, check the correctness of the cutout made (the sink should enter freely with a slight backlash), if necessary, perform additional trimming with a jigsaw.

Hole close-up.

Small chips in the plastic are acceptable.
To avoid chipping at all, you must use a fileT101BRwith reverse teeth.

After sawing is completed and the unnecessary (inner) part of the table top is removed, it is necessary to clean the cut from dust and carefully cover it with silicone sealant (using a small rubber spatula), this will prevent the table top from swelling when water enters. It is also necessary to lubricate the chipped plastic that formed during sawing. You don’t need to get carried away - it makes no sense to cover the cut with a thick layer of sealant.

Apply sealant to the cut.

Glue the polyethylene foam seal (included with the sink) on the side of the sink around the entire perimeter. If, after gluing the sealant, it protrudes beyond the outer contour of the side (rises above it) by more than 1 mm, then the sealant must be cut with the sharp tip of a knife, otherwise there is a possibility that the fasteners will not be able to fully squeeze the sealant and press the sink to the plane of the countertop . If we are dealing with a sink made of artificial stone, then no seals need to be glued.

Degrease with a clean cloth soaked in gasoline or acetone the surface of the seal and the line where the seal fits to the countertop. We apply sealant to the sealant in an unbreakable strip, without being carried away by the thickness of this strip (it is assumed that the sealant is glued flush with the ledge of the side). In practice, you can find a way to install a stainless steel sink without using a sealant at all, in this case, the entire space calculated for inserting a sealant is filled with a sealant. This is acceptable, but undesirable for several reasons: high consumption of sealant (as a result, a long drying time), difficult control of filling the seam, time-consuming process of dismantling the sink in case of unsuccessful installation. An exception is the installation of a sink made of artificial stone, such a sink is mounted only on a sealant.

Applying sealant to the seal.

Washer attachment.

We insert the sink into the hole in the countertop, align it with the markings (the markings must be applied so that it is partially preserved after cutting the countertop). We take two or four fasteners and, equidistant from each other, pre-fasten the sink (without fully tightening the fasteners), constantly monitoring its position relative to the markings. Attention! Tightening the sink fasteners must be done manually, without the use of a screwdriver, as the threads in plastic parts are easily torn off! We turn the countertop down with the front surface (for convenience), install all the fasteners, finally tighten them, trying to do this evenly and consistently. In order for the sharp spikes of the fasteners to stick into the countertop in the best way, you can sharpen them with a file and / or tap them lightly with a hammer when tightening.

Mounting on the sink in assembled form. By tightening the screw, the sink is attracted to the countertop. The sharp ends of the metal part of the mount should securely lock into the countertop.

We tighten the fasteners with a screwdriver.

Fastening is tight. It is recommended to lightly tap the fastener with a hammer so that the sharp ends cut deeper into the countertop.

All fasteners are tight.

We look at the result of the work: the sink should be pressed along the entire perimeter to the surface of the countertop, installed along the marking lines. Indirect confirmation of the complete fit of the sink can be squeezed out sealant. Wipe clean with a cloth excess sealant and markings from the front surface of the countertop. Allow the sealant to cure overnight. If the sink is made of artificial stone and is not equipped with fasteners, it is necessary to take care of its complete immobility during the curing of the sealant.

The sink is well pressed against the countertop. Sealant was slightly squeezed out.

Installing a mortise kitchen sink is a responsible matter. Poor installation of the sink can not only spoil the appearance of the kitchen, but also lead to a quick failure of the countertop due to the penetration of water under the sink to the cut of the countertop. Primary importance should be given to sealing the sink-countertop joint, do not rely on a well-executed end cut.

Friends, good afternoon. If you are faced with the task of embedding a kitchen sink, and you do not know how to do it, then this post is for you.

WHAT TO PAY ATTENTION TO WHEN CHOOSE INTERNET WASHING

Kitchen sinks vary in shape, material, type and price. Most often, a mortise, metal sink is purchased for a kitchen set.

If your choice fell on such a sink, then pay attention to the following points:

• It is better if the size of the sink is smaller than the size of the cabinet itself (in fact, it is possible to embed the sink into a smaller cabinet, but this is more troublesome);
• It is better if the sink metal thickness is at least 0.8 mm;
• On the bottom, from its outer side, a sound-proof lining must be glued, or the entire sink from the outer side is covered with a special sound-proof compound. This is done so that the sound of falling water is more muffled;
• Deep washing is always more convenient;
• Pay attention to the completeness of the sink;
• The sink should not be curved or propeller driven;
• Pay attention to the sink mount. The fastening metal should not be soft;
• Sinks come with left and right wings;
• Chinese analogues of sinks are cheaper than European ones from 2 times and more.

HOW TO CORRECTLY MAKE A DRINK UNDER THE WASH

On the Internet, this item is written minimalistically and smeared, something like this: “Correctly mark and cut with a jigsaw.” Let's look at how to properly mark the drank under the sink.

For example, you bought a round sink and you need to cut it into a cabinet by 800 mm. If a template is attached to the sink, then everything is simple, but if it is not there, then we do the following.

STAGE 1. Looking for a location

The first task is to decide where it is better to place the sink. I explain - in our example, the sink is round 51 (or 49) cm in diameter, and the cabinet itself is 80 cm, therefore, it can be moved to the left or right, or cut in the center.

Pay special attention to the layout of the sink in the corner version (option 90 gr.) of the kitchen, since the convenience of approaching the sink depends on your choice.

STEP 2. How far back from the wall?

Having decided on the choice of location, put the sink on the countertop upside down. Now you need to decide how much you need to retreat from the wall. This item is especially important if your sink is 51 cm deep. If you mark such a sink exactly in the middle of the countertop, then it is likely that your saw will pass along the front bar of the pedestal (this depends on the design of the pedestal itself). The easiest way is to attach a kitchen plinth to the wall and step back 1-2 cm from it. This place will be the outer edge of the sink.

If the cut line still goes along the body of the cabinet, then you must either pull back the bar of the cabinet, or remove the countertop from the body, cut it out and put it back in place.

We take a pencil and outline the outer contour of the sink.

STAGE 3. Draw a cutting line

Now we need to decide on the line of the cut itself.

To do this, measure the distance from the outer edge of the sink to the fasteners (mounting lugs). Usually this size: 1-3 cm, but it can be different for different sinks.

We already have a drawn outline of the outer contour of the sink. Now we measure from it the just measured distance inside the future sink and draw an internal contour. This is the saw line.

Stage 4. Cutting

With a drill, from the inside of the contour, next to the cut line, we make a through hole. We make it so that the jigsaw blade passes.

We cut with a jigsaw along the contour of the cut. When sawing, do not rush and do not press hard with a jigsaw.

It is better to cut with a “Clean Cut” blade. If the sink is rectangular, then molar tape can be used to avoid chipping. When choosing a file, consider the height of the cut.

Stage 5. Preparing the cut

After sawing, it is necessary to process the edges of the saw cut.

Align the cut with large sandpaper and try on the sink with fasteners.

If everything is fine, then we clean the saw cut from dust and coat it with silicone.

Silicone, in the future, will not absorb moisture and swell the countertop.

Stage 6. Mounting the sink

Usually the sink is attached to the countertop with the faucet already installed, since it is extremely inconvenient to do this under the sink.

The new sink is completed with a sealing tape, which is glued along the edge of the sink into a special groove. For greater reliability, you can apply silicone around the edge.

We insert the fasteners into the ears of the sink, with hooks to the countertop, bend them inward and insert the sink into the sawn hole.

We move the structure a little so that the sink sits correctly and tightly. Fasteners hook the sink to the countertop as shown in the figure and use a screwdriver to pull the sink to the countertop. Don't overdo the washer.

It is not worth pulling the sink with a screwdriver, as it is very easy for them to turn the fastening thread.

The tightening force is felt by hand, and some fasteners are very weak in tightening.

• If you have drunk more under the sink than you need (but not more than the sink itself), then it is easier to fix it with the help of fasteners if you attach plywood inserts from the inside, at the fastening points. We expose some edges of the waders to the sink, at the right distance, while we fasten the others to the countertop.
• Sometimes sink fasteners well attract the structure to a thick countertop, but do not attract it to a thin one. With the help of all the same inserts, you can artificially increase the countertop at the attachment points.
• If you have broken off all the fastening ears on the sink, then you can simply glue it with silicone, putting a load for the time of gluing.
• If you have a sink, but no fixtures, then you can buy a sink attachment kit in the store. Usually it consists of the fasteners themselves and the sealing tape.
• It happens that you attract the sink, and the fasteners either slide off the edges of the cut, or unbend. In this case, you can screw the fasteners to the countertop with a self-tapping screw and then the fasteners will not move out.

That's all. There will be questions - write.