We are building a one-story house and drainage to it. Drainage system around the house: a drainage device for draining the soil around the perimeter

If stains or traces of moisture are visible on the walls of the room, this is a sure sign of poor waterproofing. To avoid premature destruction of the building, the appearance of mold and rot, it is imperative to equip drainage around the house.

Purpose

Drainage is a drainage system that is used to eliminate excess fluid around a house, garden, or yard. Moisture can appear near the house due to various conditions: a high level of groundwater, strong melting, or a special type of earth (clay, crushed stone, loam). Also, the drainage system is used in courtyards, where, due to the inconvenient location of the house, the water cannot leave on its own or, on the contrary, drains too quickly, leaving the ground dry and lifeless.

When to install drainage around the house:

1. If liquid collects in the basement during snowmelt or heavy precipitation;
2. If your area has a high level of groundwater;
3. When the foundation of the house is regularly washed away with water;
4. A capillary network appears on the floor or some areas of the building are prone to mold.

Drainage installation can be easily done by hand, in most cases a perimeter foundation drainage system around a private house is used. For more complex cases, it is possible to use a complex system of natural type. This is the arrangement of a number of drains, in which there are main (main) and additional ones. This technique is used on swampy soils or a very large piece of land.

How to do

There are two types of dehumidification that are used most often by craftsmen:

1. Surface;
2. Deep.

Surface or storm is a drain, which is protected by a special mesh. Water enters the pipeline after rain, as well as snowmelt. The system is at a certain angle to the building, which allows you to remove moisture in any quantity. Such surface drainage works well in warm regions with high average annual precipitation.

Photo: surface drainage

The deep system is more complex, but it is also considered much more effective than the surface one. The depth of the laying is determined by calculating the ratio of the size and depth of the foundation and the level of soil freezing. Soil type also plays a big role. To drain groundwater in this way, a separate pipeline or simply a paved trench can be used.

Without fail, wells are equipped at a certain distance from the drains, into which wastewater is collected. After that, it can be used for irrigation or simply go into the deeper layers of the earth.

The correct arrangement of drainage around the house also implies the development of a project (a diagram with structural details). Using this drawing, you will be able to determine which type of system is most preferable for you, as well as draw up an approximate estimate for the work. You can use the services of specialists, or develop a scheme yourself.

Related video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DloSGrkFtYA

Step-by-step instructions on how to make proper drainage around the house:

1. Calculate the communication distance from the foundation. It is very important that the drains do not touch the already laid sewer and water supply pipes. It is possible to lay wall drainage, it will run almost close to the base of the building, or more distant - at a distance of 1.5 - 2 meters from the wall;
2. After you need to dig a trench. Its depth depends on the level of groundwater, the preferred type of drainage system and the level of ground freezing. You can get all the necessary data from the geological bureau of your region;
3. It is necessary to dig in a place where the sewer does not pass, otherwise there is a possibility of a violation of its tightness;
4. The drain must be connected to a septic tank or a drainage well. To equip it, a cylindrical hole is dug at the lowest point of the site, in which a plastic barrel or concrete rings are placed (depending on your needs). Installation is carried out simultaneously with the installation of drains, that is, the trenches must be connected to the septic tank. If everything is done correctly, then high waters themselves will drain into a prepared place;

   

5. When the trench is ready, sand is poured onto its bottom, which will act as a filter layer. There are several options for arranging the drain itself. You can lay it with construction debris, placing large stones on the bottom and reducing their size as they approach the surface. Some craftsmen use drainage from plastic bottles, brushwood, boards for such purposes. For a country house, you can use improvised means, for example, bricks, but for a residential country cottage it is better to work with plastic pipes;
6. After you need to do the insulation of the drainage around the house. If you are organizing a drainage system from improvised materials, then thermal insulation will not be needed, but when working with plastic pipelines, it is necessary. For this, communications are covered with geotextiles. The laying technology is similar to the insulation of sewer pipes - each drain is wrapped in material and additionally reinforced with clamps;

   

7. After the drainage site is filled up or covered with a mesh, depending on whether it is superficial or deep. With a deep arrangement, it is necessary to make the embankment a slide so that depressions and pits do not appear when the earth settles. In a large area, the ditch can be covered with a blind area. For example, a slate sheet or a brick path, then the drain will be completely invisible to prying eyes;

   

8. Every six months, you need to inspect the septic tank, clean it of silt and dirt.

Tip from homeowners with gardens: Fertilizer can be placed at the bottom of the trench, then the wastewater will become a source of essential minerals. In this case, it can later be used to water the garden and vegetable garden.

If the size of the local area allows you, then you can make a much simpler drainage system. In the lowest place of the land share, a hole is dug under the lake, it is naturally filled with water. With the right approach and organization, in the future it will be possible to make an excellent landscape design with interesting elements. For example, launch fish into an artificial reservoir or decorate it with lilies and other water-loving plants. For the fact that the ode will flow into the "pit", she will leave the house. If you solve the problem in this way, then do not forget to regularly clean the lake so that it does not flood and turn into a swamp

Price

The cost of arranging drainage around the house depends on the materials with which you will make the drainage system (for example, the price of construction waste is cheap). To work in the country, you can take the most affordable filters: wooden boards (fold them crosswise and install them with their ends on the walls of the trench), stones, fragments of bricks, slate. For the drainage system of a wooden or brick residential building, it is worth taking more complex and expensive materials - plastic pipes, old metal communications, even a pipe made of plastic bottles is suitable for low rainfall.

Be sure to take care of the insulation. If it is not possible to buy geotextiles for drainage, then cover the pipes with unnecessary rags or even humus. This will help keep the system from freezing during the cold season.

There are some. But, if you understand this issue, you can find out that the best option is a closed drainage system.

Purpose of drainage around the house

There is one very common misconception inherent in all inexperienced but wealthy people: drainage may well replace foundation waterproofing. Actually it is not! Even if it is good to isolate the foundation from water penetration, then it needs a drainage system anyway. To identify the reason for this, it is necessary to “ripen to the root” - under the house, loam and clay alternate, and the height of groundwater in different seasons may differ.

Another important factor is the height of your yard relative to the terrain. The lower this height is, the more drainage is needed around your home. Also, this should include precipitation and soil water permeability. In a word, there are a lot of such factors, it is impossible to take them all into account even before the construction of the house began. But all of them will soon manifest themselves either in the form of moss or mold.

To avoid the adverse effects of excess moisture, drainage must be installed before the construction of the building, at the stage of excavation. With regards to other methods of water drainage, it is rather the elimination of holes in a sinking ship. It might work, but it's temporary.

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands

There are several drainage options, but, again, it is better to use a closed one. Other types of laying is undesirable.

1. Closed drainage option. Special drainage pipes are used for it, it is completely safe, there is the possibility of maintenance, as well as several arrangement options.
2. Open variant. In this case, a trench is being dug around the house, the depth of which will exceed the depth of the foundation. It may be narrow, but it must be sloped so that water can drain naturally. As a result, we get a certain gap on the site, which completely and completely destroys all its attractiveness. You can decorate it with something, try to disguise it, but the likelihood that your children will fall there is very high.
3. Zasypnaya. In principle, here is the same trench around the house, but on top it is covered with rubble and covered with broken bricks, if desired, it can be decorated with turf. No one can fall here, but maintenance is out of the question. If the drainage system becomes clogged, then literally everything will have to be torn apart, since you will not be able to visually determine where the blockage occurred.

The choice of pipes to create drainage

After we have decided on the type of drainage system, it is necessary to select pipes.

Varieties of drainage pipes of domestic and foreign production

Important! It is best to use pipes with existing perforations, as this greatly simplifies installation. Therefore, polymer pipes are most suitable, in which the diameter can be different, but 100-110 mm are mainly used for drainage.

Prices for polymer pipes

polymer pipes

Do-it-yourself closed drainage

Below is a step-by-step drainage device technology. It consists of several stages.

earth measurements

First you need to determine the lowest point on your site. It is here that the future trench will stretch, and here there will be a drain well. This is because although mold in the basement is highly undesirable, the waterlogged soil in the area will not bring any benefit either. If your site is flat, tall grass grows on it, or there are other kinds of complications, then only one thing will help you - a theodolite.

It is better to borrow this tool from someone or rent it, it is not profitable to buy it.

The ditches that will be around the house should be at a slope of about one centimeter per linear meter. This may seem like overkill, since the water will flow down a five-millimeter slope, but in reality it is not. Dirty water with sand and clay will flow through the drainage system, so that over time a coating will form on the pipe, so a centimeter slope is just right, and let the amount of work from this increase, but at the same time, the durability of the system increases.

Digging a ditch, backfilling

Now you can proceed to the installation of drainage pipes.

Installation of drainage pipes

Important! Do not forget that the pipes should be laid with an inclination towards the drain well!

Our entire drainage system must be installed using fittings. We do this before we backfill the last gravel layer.

Open drainage technology

Outdoor drainage is the easiest way to protect the house from precipitation. Material costs are minimal, the work is insignificant, but there is a danger that someone may fall into such a drainage. To work, you only need a shovel and a tape measure. We dig around the perimeter of the house with an open ditch 50 cm wide and 70 cm deep, about a meter from the wall. Its walls should be sloped approximately 30°. Water that has fallen into the ditch will drain into a specially created sewage pit, which can be made common to several buildings. To move water into the pit, we dig a large ditch connecting all the secondary ones.

It is advisable to fill the bottom of the ditch with rubble so that the water flow does not erode the soil.

Important! Open drainage is especially effective when snow melts.

If the suburban area is located on a slope, then open drainage systems will effectively remove water. In this case, the ditches dug across the slope will “intercept” the flowing water, after which the latter will be directed to the general channel, and then to the drain hole outside the yard.

Backfill drainage technology

As mentioned earlier, for the construction of a backfill drainage system, we need the following materials:

• Large gravel;
• Gravel;
• Broken brick (instead of gravel or in combination with it).

In general, the technology of the backfill system is much like a closed one, only pipes are not used here - instead of them, the ditch is half filled with crushed stone of large fractions or broken bricks. Next, gravel is poured, the finish layer is soil with turf.

But this type of drainage clogs up pretty quickly, and it is generally very difficult to clean it. That is why backfill drainage is considered the least effective and durable. In order to at least partially correct this, it is recommended to put geotextiles between the gravel layer and the soil, or even better tecton - the walls and bottom of the ditch are covered with material. After that, the water will not soak into the ground. Such waterproofing should not only completely cover the ditch, but also go beyond it by about 0.3 meters on each side. Then broken brick or crushed stone is poured, which is covered from above with the left edges of the material. After that, the finishing layer is laid.

In the manufacture of tecton, modern technologies are used, which makes it possible to obtain a material that almost does not rot when in contact with water. And this is a great opportunity to improve the efficiency of such an unreliable system as backfill drainage.

Other ways to install drainage. Foundation blind area

The blind area of ​​​​the foundation is a strip of concrete or asphalt arranged around the perimeter of the entire house. It is made at an obtuse angle relative to the surface of the wall. This is not only an effective way to protect the foundation from moisture, but also a decorative element of the house. The function of the blind area is simple - to divert melt or rainwater from the foundation.

Important! If the soil on which the house is built is non-sagging and dry, or moreover, the foundation of the house is columnar, then there is no need for a blind area. In all other cases, this must be done, since a wet foundation cannot last long.

What material to choose for the blind area?

For this purpose, we can use one of the following materials:

• Galvanized steel sheets;
• Rubble stone;
• Asphalt;
• Clay;
• Concrete slabs;
• Brick;
• Concrete.

Of these, concrete is the most popular, due to its excellent characteristics - high strength and durability. But there is another material, relatively "young" and therefore unknown to anyone - profiled PVP membranes, which perfectly isolate from moisture penetration and are not covered with cracks during operation.

Such a membrane lies on the ground, and sand and gravel are placed on top of it. You can cover such a structure with almost anything, even a flower bed or lawn located above it. To do this, lay another layer of turf about 20 centimeters thick on the rubble.

Finally, the easiest way to make drainage around the house is to take a plastic pipe and cut it lengthwise into two pieces. Lay pipe cuts along the perimeter at a slight slope towards the water outlet. Also for this purpose, special drainage channels are made, equipped with plastic gratings for protection.

And remember! All other drainage methods other than the pre-dug system are secondary. Their efficiency is an order of magnitude lower, and there can be no question of durability.

Video - How to make drainage around the house with your own hands

The drainage system arranged around the house makes it possible to significantly reduce or even completely remove excess water from the site. And this applies not only to groundwater, but also to precipitation. Do not confuse drainage with waterproofing, they can perfectly complement each other, but not interchangeable.

When is drainage necessary?

A drainage system is necessary in many areas, but in some it cannot be dispensed with.

• Drainage is especially needed in areas that are located quite low. In such places, the problem of accumulation of excessive amounts of moisture is constant.
• You can not do without drainage on clay soils, where the water level drops too slowly. Loamy soils are also best left unattended and drainage systems.
• Such systems are necessary if the area experiences a constantly high amount of precipitation.
• In areas where groundwater is at a fairly high level, it is also best to use drainage.

• The reason for the organization of the drainage system can also be a large number of waterproof coatings on the site, for example, concrete paths, an asphalted yard, and so on.
• Drainage is also required if there are adjacent buildings with a deep foundation on the site. Indeed, in such a case, water will collect on the surface, since it will not be able to find a way out anywhere. As a result, the risk of flooding increases.
• Even if there are no obvious prerequisites for arranging drainage, you should find out the features of the climate and terrain. If there is the slightest concern that after the rapid melting of snow or frequent rains, the groundwater level may increase, it is better to play it safe and install a drainage system. This will save not only money for home repairs, but also nerves.

Purpose and types of systems

The methods of organizing drainage systems on the site differ depending on the amount of precipitation, the level of groundwater, the characteristics of the type of soil, the topography of the site, the location of the house and other factors.

Drainage according to the installation method can be divided into two types.

• A perfect drainage system is installed at the level of natural water runoff. Moisture enters the drains through the holes located on the sides, as well as through the top of the pipes.
• An imperfect drainage system is installed higher than the water level. Moisture penetrates the drains from the bottom, top and sides. To strengthen the sides of this design, a drainage cushion made of sand and gravel is used.

According to the way the drainage is arranged, it is divided into open and closed.

Open

Drainage is a system of gutters, trenches, gutters, catchment trays. This system is organized without pipes. Such a drainage looks like a trench 0.5 meters wide and 0.5-0.6 meters deep, designed to drain melt and storm water from the house or from the site. The trench necessarily has a slope towards the main water intake trench, so that water is drained in the right direction by gravity.

The main advantages of such a drainage system are its low cost and speed of creation.. However, in order to divert a large amount of water due to precipitation, a deep drainage line is required, which is unsafe. In addition, if the walls of the ditches are not equipped, they will quickly collapse. Another disadvantage of such a system is that it makes the site look less neat and aesthetically unattractive.

To increase safety and increase the service life of this drainage option, special concrete or plastic trays are used, which are closed with bars on top. Open drainage is most often used in agriculture to divert water from already cultivated areas.

Closed

Underground drainage is a pipe system. It has a nicer look compared to the previous one, as it is equipped with a protective grill, but the receiving ditch is much narrower and smaller. Closed drainage schemes are used to protect the foundation, basements from groundwater and increase their service life.

Especially closed drainage is suitable for wetlands, as well as areas near which there are natural reservoirs or located in a lowland. In this case, closed drainage is best supplemented with storm sewers. Underground drainage is also called deep.

Underground drainage is divided into two types:

• wall-mounted;
• trench.

It should be clarified that indoor drainage is best done at the construction stage of the building.

If the house is already completely ready, then you should opt for a trench ring drainage system. But it should be borne in mind that it is only suitable for houses without a basement. In small areas where there is no need for open drainage, backfill drainage is used. The system of such backfill trenches is not serviced without dismantling after complete arrangement. This is its main drawback. The organization of backfill drainage is carried out in several stages.

Most often, in practice, open trench drainage is used, since it is the easiest to arrange.

Rain shower as an addition

A storm drain or storm sewer will be a useful addition to the drainage system. It allows you to remove from the site the water that falls on it in the form of precipitation. Through the storm drain, the water moves either to the well-water collector, or to the collector well, from which there is an outlet to the gutter or sewer network. For a well-collector, it is best to choose the most remote place from the building. You can also organize the drainage of water using a storm drain to the nearest body of water.

It should be remembered that laying on top of geotextiles is best suited for stormwater pipelines, and it is better to drain water directly into storm water inlets.

Storm sewer is also called surface drainage. Its main advantage lies in the fact that it is very easy to settle on the site. However, it should be borne in mind that stormwater can only handle melt and rainwater.

The stormwater is divided into three types:

• Linear allows you to divert melt and rainwater not only from the house, but also from the entire site. This type is a channel that breaks out in the ground and a drainage well. Often the channels are made in the form of straight lines, which are covered with bars for safety.
• dotted allows you to divert water from individual sources, such as water taps or roof drains. In order to prevent debris from getting into this storm drain, it is covered with metal gratings. The organization of the linear view is that pipes are laid from each point, which are connected to the main pipe going to the drainage well.
• Combined stormwater implies the use of both linear and point types.

Adjoining water disposal

Types

The device of the drainage system around the house has several types.

• Plastovy drainage is used as an auxiliary structure. Such drainage is most often used as an additional to the main system. It is best to choose it for areas where groundwater occurs at a shallow depth. It is ideal for surface water drainage. Often reservoir drainage is used in clayey areas. It must be located at a small distance from the foundation of the building.
• Annular drainage prevents flooding of basements and basements. It is best to use such drainage in areas where the sand content is increased. This is due to the fact that the annular drainage almost does not retain moisture, easily passing it through.
• wall drainage is most commonly used. It allows you to protect not only the building, but also the basement levels from moisture. It is recommended to use it in areas with a lot of clay.

Device

To better understand what type of drainage is suitable for a particular area, it is necessary to consider in detail the device of each of them.

• Plast. At the heart of reservoir drainage is an air gap. Such a drainage option can be made in various ways. The most common of these is drainage in the form of a layer of gravel. For its arrangement, it is necessary to place a layer of gravel about 50 centimeters high under the exploited coating. This layer will become the air gap. A filter cloth, such as a geotextile, must be placed over this gap. Then pour a layer of sand and finish, for example, with tiles.

• Annular. The scheme of this drainage is a vicious circle. Circle breaks are acceptable if water flows exclusively from one side of the building. The ring system is installed lower than the level of the base and at a distance of two to three meters from the walls. This helps to prevent flooding of the basements, and also prevents the soil on the site from collapsing.
• Wall mounted. This system is mounted at a distance of about 50 centimeters from the walls of the building. Moreover, it must be installed lower than the level at which the basement is located. Due to this, wall drainage optimally protects the foundation from moisture ingress. Most often, this type of drainage is used in areas where the composition of the soil is heterogeneous.

Scheme and principle of operation

Despite the variety of drainage systems, they all work on a similar principle and have similar designs. The drainage scheme can be represented as a closed system of pipes connected to each other. As a rule, most types of drainage systems are installed lower than the level of the base of the building. In order for the perimeter of a private house to be well protected from moisture, it is best to install the drainage system at an angle. With this solution, the water will drain well without lingering.

Before you start draining water, you should definitely find out at what height the groundwater is located. This is done as follows: a layer of earth is dug out at a depth of more than two meters, and then the condition of the soil is assessed.

In order for the water to have a place to accumulate and then be removed from there, a well is made in the corner of the building, from which a pipe system is laid to drain water outside the site. If the drainage is arranged correctly, then the basement and basement will not be wet and damp. Otherwise, you need to identify where the mistakes were made. To improve the quality of the drainage, you can install an additional waterproofing system.

How to do it right?

Properly arranging a drainage system with your own hands is not difficult at all. It is best to start with preparatory work. To do this, the terrain is first studied, the composition of the soil is determined, and the level of groundwater is assessed. After that, work is carried out to prepare the foundation of the structure. To do this, trenches are dug around the perimeter of the base. Then dirt is removed from them, as well as layers of heat and waterproofing.

The cleaned foundation is subject to mandatory drying. By itself, the foundation will dry out in 5-7 days, and in good warm weather it can be faster. Also, for drying, you can use mechanical means such as a heat gun. Such tools allow you to speed up the process up to one day.

As soon as the foundation is dry, a layer of waterproofing is applied to it. As the latter, polyethylene or bitumen can be used. And only after that the drainage system is installed.

For strip foundation

To properly equip the drainage for the strip foundation, you must follow a number of rules. Then the installation of the drainage system will not be difficult, and the result will be amazing.

• You need to start by digging a trench around the perimeter of the building. The depth of the trench must be greater than the depth at which the foundation lies. At the bottom of this trench, the so-called drainage cushion with a height of 30 centimeters necessarily lies. The pillow should consist of 15 centimeters of coarse river sand and 15 centimeters of fine-grained gravel. It must be tamped and well spilled with water.
• The piping system is laid directly. Drainage pipes must be covered with a layer of waterproofing, such as bitumen or polyethylene. In order for the accumulated moisture to have a place to drain, a well is installed with drainage outside the boundaries of the site.

For a monolithic base

Making a drainage system for a monolithic base is more complicated. The main feature is that the drainage system is laid even before the foundation is erected. This allows you to protect the base of the building in case the ground shifts. Particular emphasis should be placed on the quality of drainage construction work. After all, this affects how strong and durable the building as a whole will be. First you need to prepare a special pit in which the drainage system will be installed. The depth of the pit is calculated based on the location and height of the foundation.

A layer of brick battle is poured to the bottom of the foundation, and then a layer of sand and fine gravel. After that, the entire pillow is carefully compacted. Drainage pipes must be reinforced using special ceilings. Geotextiles are used to seal the surface of pipes. In order for the accumulation and removal of water to occur, it is necessary to dig a well from which the pipe will extend beyond the site.

Experienced builders and suburban residents are well aware that "extra" water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the foundation and basement floor, washing out of the base, flooding of beds, swamping of the territory, etc. As a result, in spring, autumn and even summer, it is impossible to walk through the summer cottage without rubber boots.

In this article, we'll look at:

• How to arrange water drainage on the site.
• How to make a budget storm sewer with your own hands.
• Drainage device. How to make inexpensive drainage and drain a wetland.

What kind of water interferes with the life of the developer and the suburban homeowner

About the types of surface and ground water, as well as drainage and storm sewer systems, you can write a separate book. Therefore, we will leave a detailed enumeration of the types and causes of groundwater occurrence outside the scope of this article, and concentrate on practice. But without the minimum theoretical knowledge, to take up the independent arrangement of drainage and storm sewers is to throw money away.

The point is that even improperly made drainage system functions for the first few years. Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped with geotextile, which was placed in clay, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. And the money for the arrangement of drainage has already been spent and, most importantly, the construction of the drainage is associated with a large amount of excavation work with the involvement of equipment.

Therefore, simply digging and shifting a drainage pipe 3-5 years after its laying is difficult and expensive. The site has already been inhabited, landscape design has been made, a blind area has been equipped, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc. have been installed.

We'll have to puzzle over how to redo the drainage so as not to turn the entire site around.

From here - drainage construction should always be based on geological survey data(which will help to find a water-resistant layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge of what kind of water leads to flooding of the house or swamping of the site.

Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with a period of snowmelt and an abundance of rain. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:

• capillary water.
• Ground water.
• Verkhovodka.

Moreover, surface water, if it is not diverted in time, when infiltrated (absorbed) into the ground, turns into underground water.

The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.

Output: surface runoff must be diverted by storm (rain) sewage, rather than trying to do surface drainage!

Storm sewage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug in the ground, leading water from drains outside the site + competent organization of the relief in the backyard. This will avoid stagnant zones on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.

The main mistakes that are made with an independent drainage device:

• Non-observance of the correct slope of the laid drainage pipes. If we take the average, then the slope is maintained in the range from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe.

• Using a drainage pipe in a geotextile wrap on the "wrong" ground. To avoid siltation, a pipe in geotextile is used on soils consisting of clean medium- and coarse-grained sands.

• The use of cheaper limestone rubble instead of granite, which is washed away with water over time.
• Savings on high-quality geotextiles, which must have certain hydraulic properties that affect the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 microns, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as the transverse Kf, which should be at least 300 m / day (with a single pressure gradient).

Inexpensive do-it-yourself storm sewer

The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for storm sewers on the site is to lay special trays.

Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but the price of them "bites". This forces users of our portal to look for cheaper options for arranging storm sewers and drainage systems from the site.

Denis1235 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I need to make an inexpensive storm drain, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, to drain meltwater that comes from a neighbor. Water must be diverted to a ditch. I thought about how to make a water outlet. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then they will leave “extra” gratings, and I don’t need special aesthetics for storm water. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and cut them along with a grinder, thereby getting a homemade tray.

Despite the budgetary nature of this idea, the user was not attracted by the need to saw asbestos-cement pipes on their own. The second option is the opportunity to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a concrete layer of about 100 mm.

Portal users responded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.

Hooked on the idea of ​​​​an inexpensive storm drain, but not wanting to get involved with cutting pipes on their own, Denis1235 I found a plant that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will immediately be sawn into pieces 2 m long (so that a 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be brought to the site. It remains only to develop a scheme for laying trays.

The result is the following pie:

• Soil base in the form of a bed.
• A layer of sand or ASG about 5 cm thick.
• Concrete about 7 cm.
• Tray from asbestos-cement pipe.

When installing such a storm drain, do not forget to lay a metal mesh (for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.

Denis1235

As a result, I made a budget shower at the dacha. It took: 2 days to dig a trench, two more days to concrete and install the track. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.

Practice has shown that the track "overwintered" perfectly, did not crack and intercepts water from a neighbor, leaving the site dry. Also of interest is the option of rain (storm) sewage of the portal user with the nickname yuri_by.

yury_by Member of FORUMHOUSE

Because the crisis does not think to end, then I thought about how to arrange a storm sewer to remove rainwater from the house. I want to solve the problem, and save money, and do everything efficiently.

After thinking, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage based on flexible double-walled corrugated pipes (they cost 2 times cheaper than "red" sewer pipes), which are used for laying power cables underground. But, because the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yuri_by I was afraid that the corrugated pipe could break in winter if water gets between the two layers.

Eventually yuri_by I decided to take a budget "gray" pipe, which is used in the arrangement of internal sewage. Although he had fears that the pipes, which do not have such rigidity as the "red ones", will break in the ground, practice has shown that nothing happened to them.

yuri_by

If you step on the "gray" pipe, it turns into an oval, but there are no significant loads in the place where I buried it. Only the lawn is laid and there are pedestrian loads. Having laid the pipe in a trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they keep their shape, and the storm drain works.

The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive storm drain based on “gray” sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photos.

Digging a hole to collect water.

Level the base.

We install a concrete ring.

The next stage is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.

We cast a homemade well cover from concrete.

Paint the manhole cover.

We make a tie-in into the well of a drainage plastic "gray" sewer pipe, maintaining a slope of the route of 1 cm per 1 running meter.

We spill the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids between the walls of the trench and the pipe.

To prevent the pipe from floating up, it can be pressed with a brick or board.

We put the cover, mount the hatch and fill everything with soil.

This completes the production of the budget shower.

Construction of inexpensive drainage and drainage of the wetland

Not everyone gets the “right” sites. In SNT or in new cuts, the land can be very swampy, or the developer has a peat bog. To build a normal house for permanent residence on such land, and not an easy summer cottage, is both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - to sell / exchange the site or to drain and bring the site in order.

In order not to engage in various costly alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options for drainage and drainage of the territory based on car tires. This option allows you to save the family budget.

Yuri Podymakhin FORUMHOUSE member

Peat soil is characterized by a high level of groundwater. In my area, the water is almost flush with the surface, and after the rain does not go into the ground. To divert the top water, it must be thrown out of the site. I did not spend money on buying special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.

The system is mounted as follows - a ditch is dug, tires are laid in it, tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the earth does not fall inside from above. Polyethylene can also be additionally pressed with "unnecessary" pieces of slate in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the "cover" pipeline and is then discharged outside the site.

But there are also more “heavy” places where much more needs to be done.

Seryoga567 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I have a plot in SNT, with a total area of ​​8 acres. There is a building on the site that I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The GWL is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket, holding it by the handle. In the spring, the water in the country house stands for a long time, the site actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries out, it is only in the very heat in summer. No one wants to put the drainage ditches in order, so everyone swims. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight with the neighbors. It is necessary to raise your site and find a way to put all the "unnecessary" water from the site.

Drainage around the house is an effective way to protect building elements and outbuildings from moisture. The creation of such a drainage system is especially important if the groundwater is at a depth of less than 2.5 meters. This is also necessary if the residential structure is located on a site that is prone to seasonal or weather flooding. How to make drainage around the house with your own hands - step by step instructions. The arrangement of the drainage system is not a difficult task, but for its precise organization it is necessary to follow simple rules.

With the help of special drainage pipes LightDrein, you can install the drainage system yourself. See the addresses of stores in Moscow and the Moscow region.

System description

For the effective removal of ground, rain and melt water, which not only destroy the structural elements of the building, fill the basement and cellar, but also reduce the bearing capacity of the soil, there are several ways to arrange drainage. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, the decision which type to choose and how best to make drainage around the house remains with the owner himself.

The design and location of the protection system against excessive moisture is selected taking into account the terrain, the presence of recessed rooms, the depth of groundwater, and the type of soil. By design, the following drainage systems are distinguished: filling, open and closed.

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands

Depending on what area of ​​the land plot needs to be drained, what type and what depth of drainage will be most effective, the location of the entire system is chosen. If necessary, to exclude the effect of water on the foundation and basements, wall or ring drainage is created. The first type is appropriate in the presence of a basement or basement and is located in close proximity to the foundation walls. Trenches are dug around the perimeter, a perforated pipe is laid (below the level of the basement floor) and covered with rubble or gravel. The wall is fenced off with a layer of geotextile with one-sided conductivity. Water from the ground does not reach the walls, but enters the drainage pipe and is discharged to a safe place.

For effective drainage, you need to know how to properly drain the site. To do this, the drainage system is located around the entire perimeter. The most time-consuming, expensive, but also the most effective way is a closed system using plastic pipes. The price of such perforated pipes is affordable for any family budget. It perfectly removes excess water from the site, preventing mold from forming, destroying garden and garden plants, destroying load-bearing building elements and not spoiling the appearance of the house.

To create such a drainage, you need to perform several operations:

• draw a diagram of the future system on paper indicating the size and distance from the edge of the site, as well as taking into account landscape design and the location of plantings;
• mark future tracks on the site itself with paint or sand;
• dig trenches along the marked routes with your own hands or with the help of small equipment (the depth and width depend on the level of groundwater and the diameter of the pipes used, vary from 70 to 150 cm in depth and from 25 to 40 cm in width);
• line the bottom and walls of the trench with geotextile (the material will significantly reduce drainage clogging and significantly increase the period of effective operation);
• apply a layer of sand (about 15 cm) to the bottom, and then a layer of crushed stone or gravel (about 20 cm);
• using the device and the gravel layer, set the desired slope level;
• with a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site, it will be necessary to create manholes at a distance of 50 meters from each other in places where pipes bend or change in slope;
• perforated pipes are laid (preferably with a filter element - fiberglass, coconut fiber, non-woven or needle-punched textiles) and interconnected using fittings;
• the most optimal diameter of the drainage pipe, which provides good water drainage, is 110 mm;
• the slope is checked again (can be easily done with a stretched rope), while it is necessary to create a uniform level, excluding sagging of the pipe;
• it is very important that the drainage system is below the freezing level of the soil;
• from above, the pipes are covered with crushed stone or gravel, the thickness of the layer should not reach the soil surface of about 15 cm;
• geotextiles are laid on a layer of crushed stone and soil is poured.

Do not be afraid of increasing the cost of creating drainage: purchasing additional geotextiles and separating all layers from each other will only increase the efficiency and service life of the entire system. Following these simple instructions will allow you to install long-term water protection with your own hands and preserve your property and health throughout the life of the house.

Backfill construction

The backfill drainage structure is a deep trench (below the upper groundwater level) filled with coarse gravel, crushed stone or other rubble material. The upper part of the trench is covered with a layer of turf, and to reduce sagging and silting of the passage space, the walls are laid with a layer of geotextile material. Such drainage is easy to create, low cost, long service life and no need for maintenance.

In addition, in its final form, it does not violate the general appearance of the site and does not introduce dissonance into landscape design. Of the minuses, one can note the low throughput of the water flow and the impossibility of cleaning the discharge channel in case of clogging.

Open type drainage device

An open option or surface drainage involves the creation of shallow trenches (about 0.5 meters) of an open type, through which rain and melt water is drained into special containers or removed from the site. To prevent sagging and destruction of the walls of the trenches, plastic or metal trays are placed in them. Lattices on top provide additional security.

How to make a closed drainage system

The most complex and time-consuming type of drainage is the closed type. When it is organized, trenches are dug, a layer of gravel or large gravel is poured onto the bottom, and then perforated pipes are laid. From above, the entire structure is again closed with crushed stone or gravel, and at the end a layer of soil is applied. To increase the efficiency of water drainage and reduce silting on perforated pipes, filter material (geotextile) is used. The material for the manufacture of perforated pipes are steel, asbestos cement, ceramics, but at present, almost all types have given way to plastic. Corrugated plastic pipes are widely used, which already have holes in finished form, are distinguished by their long length and ease of installation.

When choosing any method of removing excess moisture, be sure to take into account the slope of the drainage channels. For the system to work properly, the level of inclination towards the outlet to an artificial or natural water intake must be at least 3 ° along one branch or 1 cm per linear meter. When deciding how to properly slope the drainage, you can use the adjustment of the thickness of the gravel pad.

The cost of installation work

Name of works			price, rub.
Ring drainage device around the house
With a depth of up to 1 m.
With a depth of up to 2 m.
With a depth of up to 3 m.
Collector well
Wall drainage around the house
With a depth of up to 1 m.
With a depth of up to 2 m.
With a depth of up to 3 m.
Collector well

* The cost indicated on the site is not a public offer (Article 435 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation) and is for informational purposes.
Pricing also depends on the volume, remoteness of the object and other factors.