Connection diagram and repair of a chandelier with a control panel. Connection diagram and repair of a chandelier with a control panel Output voltage form
In August 2016, the Taipit commercial and industrial group of companies, which is the owner of the trademark Powerman, announced on the Russian market a new series of uninterruptible power supplies Brick.
The main feature of the series is clear from the title: the shape of the springs resembles a brick lying on a wide edge. This, of course, is not very good in terms of space occupied - UPS in tower (vertical) type cases is more compact in this regard, but this form provides more convenience for quickly connecting or disconnecting various equipment, and there is more space for sockets.
The devices are designed for individual use and allow you to connect not only computers, providing them with uninterruptible power supply in the event of a power failure or critical change in the voltage in the external power supply, but also other office devices that may be in the workplace, including laser printers (which are usually strongly discouraged). connect to uninterruptible power supplies) - for them, the Brick UPS will play the role of a surge protector. Accordingly, for different types of connected devices, there are two groups of sockets.
However, any loads, including high-performance laser printers, will still not be able to be connected: protection may work.
There are currently two models in the series: Powerman Brick 600 with a power of 600 VA / 360 W, as well as Powerman Brick 800 with a power of 800 VA / 480 W, which we got.
Characteristics, features
The main declared parameters are given in the table:
| UPS Specifications Powerman Brick 800 | |
| Mains voltage without switching to battery operation | 220V±25% |
| Input voltage frequency | 50±10% |
| Output voltage during mains and battery operation | 220V±10% |
| Output voltage frequency during mains/battery operation | equal to mains frequency / 50 ±2% |
| Output waveform when running on battery | Modified sine wave |
| output power | 800 VA (480 W) |
| Mains-Battery Transfer Time | 2–4 ms |
| Battery life | 3–25 minutes (depending on load) |
| Automatic Voltage Regulator (AVR) | yes, one step for promotion and demotion |
| The function of starting equipment without connecting to the mains | There is (instruction not recommended) |
| Battery type, voltage and capacity | 1 × 12 V, 9 Ah |
| Maximum charge current | n/a |
| Typical charge time | 6–8 h up to 90% |
| Indication | LED indicators: Network, Battery, Error |
| Sound alarm | yes, non-switchable |
| Surge filtering | There is |
| Overload protection | Shutdown of the load when the power is exceeded by 30% when operating from the network and by 10% when operating from the battery |
| Output connectors | Uninterrupted power supply: 3 Schuko sockets Filter: 3 Schuko outlets |
| Interface for monitoring and control | No |
| Data line protection | universal RJ11/RJ45 (input and output) |
| Dimensions (W×D×H) | 202×293×93mm |
| Net/gross weight | 5.2 / 5.8 kg |
| Noise | |
| Working conditions | humidity 0-95% (non-condensing) temperature from 0 to +40 °C |
| Standard Warranty | 2 years |
| Description on the manufacturer's website | |
| average price | T-14158155 |
| Retail offers | L-14158155-6 |
The official descriptions for the Brick UPS list the following features:
- modified sine wave (step approximation) output during battery operation;
- the presence of an AVR based on an autotransformer that provides stepwise adjustment of the output voltage with changes in the input network within certain limits;
- the presence of two groups of sockets, one of which is provided only with filtering, and the second is also an AVR with battery support;
- the presence of protection against overload, voltage surges and impulse noise.
There is no mention of any features similar to Green Power in UPSs from other manufacturers, so it can be hoped that the Brick series sources will work fine even with light loads. Nothing is said about compatibility with loads whose power supplies have active power factor correction (Active PFC). All this we will have to clarify during testing.
But with regard to a cold start, that is, the possibility of turning on the power supply from batteries in the absence of an external network, there is information, although contradictory: on the one hand, it is said that such a mode exists, but on the other hand, that it is abnormal, and it cannot be used recommended.
Appearance, equipment
We have already briefly outlined the appearance above, now let's move on to the details.
The case is entirely plastic, black. Only the white logo of the company stands out on it, and there is a sticker on the back indicating the model, serial number and main parameters.
We note right away: when the power is on, the case even without connecting the load heats up, and soon a smell appears - weak, but during the working day it begins to be felt throughout the room. Of course, the smell is not very unpleasant, and after half an hour you stop paying attention to the extra “aroma”, but still I would like to hope that this is a property of the new device, and over time the smell will disappear completely.
On the upper plane of the source, two groups of three sockets are distinguished, the purpose of which is marked with inscriptions in Russian: on the right (if you focus on the logo) "UPS", on the left "Surge Protector".
Schuko sockets are used with two side flat protective earthing contacts, which we often call "Euro sockets". They allow you to connect loads (computers and other equipment) with their standard cables or external power supplies with a built-in plug, which is very convenient. True, the sockets in the groups are located almost close, and any overall PSU can simply block the adjacent socket, but even in this case, sockets are enough to serve one workplace, and the UPS is not designed for a larger one.
The instructions sometimes use not very good wording. So, the ban on connecting laser printers and devices with a low-frequency transformer at the input in it sounds like " Never Connect Printers to the UPS… …”, but, judging by the circuitry, this should not apply to all sockets, but only to those three that are marked “UPS”. For those marked as "Line filter", only the limiting values \u200b\u200bshould be taken into account, which we specify when describing the overload capacity.
The middle part of the top cover, located between the groups of sockets, is slightly raised; in the middle there is a single button that turns the device on and off. In front of it is a group of three LED indicators: green "Network", yellow "Battery" and red "Fault".
There are ventilation slots on the front and rear edges of the top cover protrusion that go into the side parts. The same slots are on the sides, right and left. On the right side, two universal RJ11/RJ45 sockets are installed, designed to protect low-current lines (telephone or LAN) from impulse noise.
At the rear end of the housing there is a C14 pin socket (IEC60320), to which a standard three-wire power cord is connected for external power supply. It is equipped with a 10 A fuse (the value is indicated on the adjacent sticker), you can change it from the outside without opening the case.
The lower plane is equipped with legs - low plastic ledges without shock-absorbing inserts. The two rear ones have shaped slots that allow you to hang the UPS on a vertical surface to save space on your desktop.
In front of the bottom there is a hatch that closes the battery compartment and allows you to replace it without opening the case.
There are no interface connectors for communication with a computer, USB or RS232: remote monitoring and control are not provided. Of course, this will not allow you to automatically shut down the OS installed on the computer connected to the source before the battery runs out, but it reduces the price of the product. If such a function is important, you will have to choose a UPS of a different model - for example, the Powerman Back Pro 800 Plus, equipped with a USB interface and equipped with Upsilon software. By the way, it is made in a compact vertical case, and only two Schuko sockets were placed on its back wall.
Complete set: in addition to the source itself, we got a user manual in Russian, a warranty card, a power cable and a meter patch cord for LAN, which is not mentioned in official materials.
All this is supplied in a well-designed box, on one side of which there is a photograph of the UPS, on the other - a list of characteristics in Russian. The packaging is common for both models of the series, and the source type is specified using a sticker on the top cover of the box (the same as on the back of the device itself).
To disassemble the UPS, it is enough to remove four self-tapping screws in the wells on the bottom, after which the upper and lower halves of the case are easily separated. The length of the wires connecting the sockets installed on the upper half and other components is enough to tilt this part of the case to the side.
Inside, a fenced-off battery compartment, a board with electronic components and an autotransformer are clearly visible. Another board, quite small, contains protection elements for low-current lines - diodes and varistors.
The protection circuit against impulse noise and overvoltage is made on a high-voltage capacitor and one varistor. The designation and inductors are noticeable on the board, but it is not soldered and replaced by a jumper. The "UPS" socket line is additionally shunted with another capacitor.
The converter is made on transistors IRLB8314, designed for use in inverters and UPS. They are fixed on a small radiator - an aluminum bar; more is not required: at high loads, the operating time will be calculated in minutes, or even tens of seconds, and the transistors simply will not have time to heat up much, and at low loads, the power dissipated by them will not be so great.
In the control circuits on the board, the KA3843 PWM controller and the LM324L quad op-amp are noticeable.
The line going to the battery is protected by a 40 A fusible link. It is soldered on the board, and it will not be possible to replace it without the help of a soldering iron.
Switching is carried out using relays Golden GH-1A-12L and GH-1C-12L, rated for current up to 10 A at voltage up to 250 V. The difference between 1A and 1C is in the logic of operation: the former work to close the contact, and the latter to switch.
On the top cover, in addition to sockets, two small boards are fixed, on which a button and LEDs are soldered.
Battery
Our copy uses a battery labeled Powerman CA 1290 12V 9AH.
As you can see in one of the above photos, the inside of the battery compartment is completely fenced off from the rest of the volume, and to remove the battery on the bottom of the case there is a cover fixed with two self-tapping screws. The documentation does not say anything about the possibility of hot swapping - for a UPS of this class, this can hardly be called a necessary function: it is quite possible to choose the time to turn off the loads, and it is much more convenient to remove the old and install a new battery if numerous wires are not connected to the source.
Charge
At the initial moment, the charge current is quite normal for this kind of batteries - 0.9–1.0 A: a charging current of the order of 0.1C is considered safe for batteries of this type. And the circuit is also usual: first, a fairly fast, but slight decrease in current, then a long, for several hours, stabilization at the level of 0.75–0.85 A, an hour and a half before the end of the process, a decrease again (the duration of the stages will depend on the degree of discharge batteries).
Moreover, it should be noted that in this case it is not at all necessary to turn on the UPS with the button - it is enough that it is connected to an external power supply. For some reason, this is not mentioned in the available materials.
We recorded the termination of the charge when the current decreased to less than 100 mA. As has been said more than once in UPS reviews, the charge time is not a constant value, since the depth of discharge depends on the load - small currents discharge the battery more than large ones. The time of 6–8 hours declared for charging up to 90% can be considered real in any case, and eight hours will most likely be enough to charge not even 90 percent, but one hundred percent.
For reference, we nevertheless give the result of our measurement: after discharging to a load of 100 W during the subsequent charge, the current for the first hour decreased from the initial 1.0 A to 0.8–0.9 A, then for about 3.5 hours it did not fall below 0 .8 A, but then it began to decrease rapidly: in half an hour to 0.2–0.3 A, in the next half an hour, to a level of less than 0.1 A. it can be assumed that the time of a full charge did not exceed 6 hours.
Test results
Temperature, noise, own consumption
The main source of heating is the autotransformer of the AVR system. Even in the absence of load and in the presence of only the battery charge current, and even then at the last stage, its core heats up a lot: the temperature can reach 62–63 ° C - it doesn’t burn yet, but it’s better not to touch it with your hand.
There is no forced cooling in the case. From the point of view of noise, this, of course, is a blessing: there is simply nothing to make noise - the transformer can only hum a little (and even then under noticeable loads), and in case of problems with external power, relays click and alerts sound, which cannot be turned off.
Accordingly, the maximum noise recorded by us did not exceed 33 dBA from a distance of 0.5 m (imitation of a desktop location) and 31 dBA from a distance of 1 m (placement on the floor). The measurement was taken in a quiet office environment where all other equipment was turned off and the background noise level was below 30 dBA. In real operation, of course, such noises will simply be masked, and even if the consumption of devices connected to the UPS is significantly lower than the maximum, then under normal conditions in the mains it can be called completely silent.
Above the transformer in the top cover are ventilation slots. Of course, such a significant heating of the transformer cannot but affect the outside: in this place, the case heats up by 22-23 degrees above the room temperature, that is, it is noticeable, but not hot anymore. In addition, the transformer and the board with electronics are spaced apart in the internal volume of the case and do not heat each other - we have seen examples of the opposite in UPS with vertical cases.
By the way, if the UPS is turned off by the button, and the batteries have been charged for a long time, then the temperature of both the transformer and the case cover above it is only 2-3 degrees lower.
The heating of the heatsink of the converter transistors during operation from batteries to a load of 200 W did not exceed 23–24 °C relative to the initial state. The measurement was made with the top cover open, but there is every reason to believe that the temperature would not have been significantly higher even in a closed case.
A little about its own consumption: when the UPS is turned off by the button and the battery is charged (the current in its circuit is less than 0.1 A), then 16–17 watts are consumed from the external network. If you turn on the button to apply voltage to the output connectors (but without load), then the consumption will increase by a couple of watts.
Offline work
Let's move on to testing battery life with different loads.
Here are the results in graph form:
More precise values are given in the table.
As usual, our comments and observations.
The output signal shape changes a little all the time, and the voltage measured by the TrueRMS voltmeter changes accordingly, but remains within the stated limits. So, at 50 W, the initial deviations are in the range from 220 to 223 V, but as the battery discharges, the average value of the output voltage decreases slightly. At medium and low loads, some time before the shutdown (for 50 W this happened in 16 minutes), a relay click is heard, and the output voltage jumps by about 5 volts, and then continues to decrease; for the specified load, the range for the total battery life is: 217–228 V.
The frequency remains within the stated limits of 50 Hz ± 2%.
Below 50 W, we did not accurately measure the time, we limited ourselves only to checking for the absence of an automatic shutdown: without load, the UPS from the batteries worked normally for 20 minutes, and there is no reason to believe that it would turn off in the future - usually models with a similar energy saving function turn off much earlier. That is, even with very small loads, this model may well work.
Now let's compare with the specification, which says about battery life for 3-25 minutes, depending on the load. Strictly speaking, there is no question of discrepancy with our results, but it is imperative to clarify the load range - approximately from 100 to 250 watts. With lighter loads, the battery life can be significantly longer, but if the connected devices consume more than 400 W (albeit not constantly, but at least at the time of a power outage at the UPS input), then battery life will last a matter of seconds, and we can only say protection against the most momentary power outages. But this, too, can often help out.
However, 2-3 minutes may not be enough to complete the normal operation of the operating system and turn off the computer, especially considering the operator's reaction time (after all, there is no connection between the UPS and the computer), the need to complete some current actions and save the result. This must be taken into account when choosing an uninterruptible power supply for a particular workplace.
Overload capacity
Of course, the overload response will be different for the two outlet groups.
The Power Filter group is protected only by a fuse with a rating of 10 A installed at the input, that is, it is quite capable of withstanding long-term loads up to 2–2.2 kW, and short-term loads (like inrush currents of laser printers) and more, since the fuse even at currents , significantly exceeding the nominal, does not work instantly. Of course, in this case, it is also necessary to take into account the total value of the loads connected to the “UPS” socket group, because the input fuse is common.
Another thing must be remembered: although significant, but short-term inrush currents of loads may not affect the fuse, however, both groups of sockets are switched on by means of relays, the contacts of which can burn from such currents, which will lead to the appearance of a transition layer on them with significant resistance, and it in turn - to local overheating and relay failure. That is, the choice of loads for connecting to the "Surge Protector" socket group is much wider than to the "UPS" group, but it should also be approached wisely.
The approach to loads for the "UPS" group must exactly comply with the requirements of the instructions: no large starting currents, and long-term power consumption should not go beyond the limits indicated in the specification.
Let's check the protection for this group. The following is stated: the load is disconnected when the power is exceeded by 30% when operating from the network and by 10% when operating from the battery.
As our tests have shown, already at a load that exceeds the declared maximum by only 4% -5%, the battery life is calculated in a couple of seconds, and it is difficult to say what type of protection plays its role: from overload or overdischarge of the batteries. Of course, physically the charge is not exhausted in such a short time even at the currents required for such loads (∼40 A), just the voltage at the battery terminals quickly drops to a value regarded by the control circuit as critical. But the influence of the overload protection scheme cannot be completely excluded, one thing can be unequivocally stated: it will not work to study the behavior of overload protection in offline mode.
Therefore, we turn to work from the network. An overload of 30% of the declared maximum of 480 W is 624 W; We begin to gradually increase the load, the results are in the table.
That is, there is full compliance with the specification. Note: the test was carried out at an input voltage of 220 V; we did not take measurements at over or under voltage at the input, including when the AVR was triggered, since this requires a corresponding change in the load so that the power consumed by it remains constant. Such studies are time-consuming, but they don’t make much sense: anyway, you can’t operate the UPS with a load that constantly or regularly exceeds the declared maximum.
Automatic output voltage adjustment
The series UPSs are equipped with a two-stage AVR system, one stage of which is activated when the input voltage decreases, and the second when it increases. Accordingly, one stage is increasing, the second is decreasing.
In the instructions, the operation of the system is specified as follows: when the input voltage changes in the range from 165 to 275 volts, the output voltage is in the range from 195 to 242 volts. Strictly speaking, the current GOST 32144-2013, which we are guided by when evaluating the UPS, speaks of a nominal 220 V and deviations of 10%, that is, a range of 198–242 V, but let's not be too picky. Let's see how things work out.
We used an autotransformer with an output voltage up to 250-255 V, so the behavior of the UPS beyond this limit was not investigated.
First, we present the result in the form of a graph (load 100 W):
The red line indicates battery operation.
And for lovers of accurate information - a table:
| Input voltage (when stepping down from 250 to 0 V) | Output voltage | Working mode |
| 250-238 V | 212-200 V | from the grid with reduction (AVR) |
| 237-200 V | 237-200 V | directly from the network |
| 199–166 V | 232-198 V | from mains boost (AVR) |
| 165 V or less | 217 V | battery |
| Input voltage (when boosted from 0 to 255 V) | Output voltage | Working mode |
| 217 V | battery | |
| 169-204 V | 197–238 V | from mains boost (AVR) |
| 205-244 V | 205-244 V | directly from the network |
| 245–250 V | 207-212 V | from the grid with reduction (AVR) |
When the load increases to 250 W, the situation does not change - at least within the measurement error.
So, the results obtained by us in some places go beyond the framework indicated above, but very slightly, this can be completely attributed to the features of a particular sample and the measurement error.
Output voltage waveform
Let's start with the transformer: when the AVR is triggered, it slightly distorts the output voltage waveform. Here are the waveforms with different loads:
Live input voltage, 300W
Output voltage from AVR to 400W resistive load
Output voltage from AVR to non-linear load 200 VA (PF = 0.7)
We made measurements: the total coefficient of harmonic components during the live transmission of the input network was 0.8%, when the AVR was operating on the specified linear load, it did not exceed 1.3%, on the non-linear one it was slightly higher - 2.1%. Despite the not very beautiful shape, this is not scary: GOST 32144-2013 allows up to 8%; in addition, it also normalizes individual harmonics, up to the 25th, but our measurement showed that they are also within acceptable limits.
At the output of the inverter, as stated, there is an “approximated sine wave” typical for such sources, a little similar to a mathematical sine wave, but quite suitable for working with loads that have switching power supplies.
Here is its appearance under different loads:
As you can see, both the waveform and its amplitude change depending on the load. Naturally, we did not measure non-linear distortions: we are not talking about “pure sine” in the description of the UPS.
Transients
The specification on the manufacturer's website states the following: "Line-to-battery transition time 2-4 ms." At the same time, the work of the AVR remains outside the brackets, and we know that the switching of the autotransformer windings is also not instantaneous, accompanied by a bounce of the relay contacts.
We have tried a variety of modes. Here are the waveforms, first for a 100W resistive load.
The input voltage has dropped, the AVR step-up stage is turned on:
Reverse transition - from boost AVR to live transmission:
Similar waveforms for the AVR step down stage:
As you can see, the first three tests have a switching time within 4 ms, only the third bounce lasts a little longer.
We change the load to a non-linear 200 VA (PF = 0.7), for it we will give oscillograms of turning on and off the step-up winding.
If in the first case the time is minimal, about 2 ms, then in the second case the bounce was delayed by 9 ms.
Now let's check the network-to-battery switching situation for the same two loads:
Load non-linear 200 VA (PF = 0.7)
Switching in any case lasts no more than 2 ms.
But there is a more difficult task: the transition from the battery to the network in conditions when the input voltage is too low, and the step-up stage of the autotransformer should turn on.
Load non-linear 200 VA (PF = 0.7)
Here, the transients last up to 15 ms, although it should be noted that the output voltage is not completely zeroed for the entire specified time.
But you still can’t blame the manufacturer for bias: our test confirmed the declared short network-battery switching time. And the fact that the specification does not mention other possible types of switching, which in our tests took both 9 and 15 ms, has to be classified as “little tricks” that marketers from various manufacturers use. And in this case, this trick is quite innocent: transients lasting even 15 ms for a UPS of this price category are not the most “outstanding” result.
Cold start
We tested the start of the source with a button in the absence of input voltage and with different loads.
However, both with linear (resistive) loads of 100 and 350 W, and with non-linear 400 VA, the source started normally. Here is the waveform for a 100W load:
Once again, we express bewilderment about the fact that the "cold start" is classified as an emergency mode. Probably, the manufacturer is simply reinsured; however, we still recommend that in such cases follow the instructions: first turn on the UPS with the button, and only then connect the loads.
Compatible with loads whose PSU is equipped with APFC
We will not test in detail the work with a computer power supply with active power factor correction: it is impossible to cover a whole range of different power supplies, and even in a wide range of power consumption.
Therefore, we limit ourselves to connecting a middle-class computer to the UPS, which has a power supply with a declared power of 500 W and with APFC. When working in office applications, it (together with the monitor) consumed 150–230 VA, no problems were observed.
Recall: one of the important conditions for the normal interaction of a power supply with APFC with a UPS is the power reserve for the latter.
conclusions
So, the main advantage of an uninterruptible power supply Powerman Brick 800- convenience: two groups of three sockets, one of which provides only network filtering, and the second "full range of services" for uninterruptible power supply, will allow you to connect a variety of loads and control them with one button. Moreover, Schuko sockets are used, which will allow the use of standard cables for connected devices, as well as remote power supplies with a built-in plug.
Of course, due to the specific shape of the case, more space on the table will be required, but a wall mount is also provided.
In addition, the UPS is almost silent (except, of course, if you do not count the audible alarm), it can work with very small loads without automatic shutdown "to save energy and battery life", which some models of this class suffer from.
Everything else is the result of a compromise between functionality and price.
This mainly concerns the lack of an interface for monitoring the power status from a connected computer, which eliminates the possibility of automatically shutting down the operating system before turning it off.
There are other, less significant points, such as using a fusible link instead of an automatic fuse.
In terms of performance, the results of our tests generally confirm the claims, but with some caveats. So, the battery life indicated in the specification is valid for loads up to 50% of the maximum (with very small, of course, battery life can last much longer than stated). And with loads close to the maximum, the time will be calculated in tens of seconds and even seconds.
The output voltage, with changes in a wide range at the input, is actually kept within the stated limits, which also comply with the requirements of GOST.
Thus, within a modest budget, this UPS model can be a good choice for one workplace equipped with various office equipment, including not only a computer, but also a printer. True, you will have to look after the state of the power supply in order to respond in time to critical situations and shut down the computer normally.
Hello, dear readers and guests of the Electrician's Notes website.
An acquaintance contacted me with the following problem - his radio-controlled chandelier does not turn on.
Let me remind you that a radio-controlled chandelier can be controlled either from the control panel or by pressing the switch.
In this case, the chandelier stopped responding to both the remote control and the switch.
I think that the problem is quite relevant, therefore, in hot pursuit, I decided to write an article that will help save money and deal with such a problem on my own, not only for ordinary consumer citizens and home craftsmen, but also for electricians who have not yet mastered the connection schemes of such chandeliers.
Before you start troubleshooting and repairing a chandelier with a control panel, you need to know its device and connection diagram.
Device and diagram of a chandelier with a control panel
Chandeliers with a remote control can only be with incandescent lamps, they can only be with halogen lamps, they can only be with LED lamps, or they can be combined.
In my example, just the same combined chandelier with halogen lamps and LED lighting is presented.
This is what it looked like when it was brought to me.
Looking at such a knot of wires and blocks, there is no desire to understand further, as in principle, and did the electrician, who was originally invited to troubleshoot. He simply took off the chandelier, took his hard-earned 200 rubles and recommended looking for another electrician to repair this chandelier.
But there is nothing supernatural in the scheme. It is only at first glance that such an impression is created, but believe me, everything is not so difficult.
So let's go in order.
Of the whole variety of radio-controlled chandeliers, their device consists of the following modules of the same type:
- radio control unit (controller complete with remote control)
- block of halogen lamps
- block of led lamps
Consider the purpose of each block separately.
A chandelier radio control unit or controller - in fact, this is a wireless switch that can be controlled using a control panel (RC) or using a conventional single-gang switch. This radio control unit is also called a switch, which means “switch” in English.
The chandelier in question is equipped with a radio-controlled Wireless Switch type Y-7E.
Specifications of the Wireless Switch Y-7E Controller:
- supply voltage 200-240 (V)
- number of output channels - 3
- output channel voltage 200-240 (V)
- the power of each channel is not more than 1000 (W) when connecting incandescent lamps or halogen lamps
- the power of each channel is not more than 200 (W) when energy-saving lamps are connected
- range of the control panel - 8 (m)
The connection diagram of the Wireless Switch Y-7E controller is shown on its case.
The controller is powered through a single-key switch (in the diagram it is marked with the letter K) as follows:
- phase (L) is connected to the red output (Red wire)
- zero (N) is connected to the black output (Black wire)
For clarity and a better understanding of the connection diagram of a chandelier with a control panel, I will lay it out sequentially in the form of fragments.
Here is a fragment of the power supply circuit of the Y-7E controller through a one-button switch.
For those who have forgotten how the one-button switch is connected -.
The Y-7E Wireless Switch Controller has three output channels with the following wire markings:
- phase of the first channel - brown output (Brown wire)
- phase of the second channel - white output (White wire)
- phase of the third channel - blue output (Blue wire)
- common zero - black output (Black wire)
The remaining one white conductor is the signal receiver antenna from the control panel (PU). It doesn't need to be connected anywhere.
A fragment of the Y-7E controller connection diagram without a connected load.
As you can see, the supply zero (N) and the common zero at the controller output (N) have the same wire color. This is due to the fact that this conductor is single and it does not break in the controller - these two conductors are soldered to one terminal. In principle, they can be interchanged.
And here is the appearance of the Y-7E controller board, but we will return to it later.
As I said just above, our controller has three output channels, which means that three independent lighting groups can be connected to it. In our chandelier it is:
- 1st group of halogen lamps
- 2nd group of halogen lamps
- LEDs (backlight)
Yes, by the way, in addition to three-channel controllers, there are: single-channel, two-channel and even four-channel. The meaning is the same, the difference is only in the number of output channels and the controller control algorithm, so I will not consider them separately.
We figured out the output channels, now let's move on to the loads.
Block of halogen lamps
The block of halogen lamps consists of:
- power supply (transformer)
- halogen lamps
Here I will only point out that in our chandelier, Jindel GET-08 electronic transformers with a voltage of 220/12 (V) and a power of 160 (W) are used to power halogen lamps.
As a load, halogen lamps with a G4 base, with a power of 20 (W) in the amount of 6 pieces, are connected to the transformer. Each lamp is connected to the transformer terminals in parallel.
Attention! Never install higher power halogen lamps in the chandelier, otherwise the transformer will fail or the cartridges will melt.
Let's return to the next fragment of the scheme.
An electronic transformer for the 1st group of halogen lamps is connected to the first channel (Brown wire) of the controller.
The electronic transformer is made in accordance with the PUE:
- phase (input) - brown
- zero (input) - blue color
The output wires have the following colors:
- phase (output) - white
- zero (exit) - gray color
All wire connections in the chandelier are made using end insulated plugs (KIZ).
The plug is made of transparent nylon, through which you can see the depth of entry of the cores into the sleeve and the result obtained after crimping.
Then the resulting insulated connection is further insulated with a heat shrink tube, and the tip is tightened with a tie-clamp. It turns out a fairly reliable and high-quality connection.
An electronic transformer for the 2nd group of halogen lamps is connected to the second channel (White wire) of the controller.
The color marking of the wires here is similar to that of the first transformer.
Let me remind you that halogen lamps cannot be touched with bare hands on the bulb - only through a glove, napkin or rag, otherwise they will quickly fail.
LED block
And it remains to consider the connection diagram of the third channel at the chandelier.
In the chandelier under consideration, a simple LED driver Aled (Jindel Electric) GEL-11101 with a rectified output voltage of 3-3.2 (V) is used to power the LEDs.
The driver is connected to the third channel (Blue wire) of the controller.
The driver wire marking has the following colors:
- phase (input) - red
- zero (input) - red color
- "+" (exit) - black color
- "-" - White color
From 2 to 22 LEDs can be connected to the output of the GEL-11101 driver. In our case, 15 LEDs are connected, which smoothly change their color during operation.
All LEDs in a circuit are connected in series. Naturally, if at least one LED fails, the entire branch will not burn. So if your LED backlight in the chandelier has stopped burning, then first of all you need to start by checking the LEDs.
LEDs are very easy to change. They are simply inserted with their pins (legs) into the appropriate connector. The main thing is to observe the polarity when installing them.
Alternatively, a jumper can be installed instead of a burned-out LED. The driver allows you to work with fewer LEDs, but do not get carried away with this, otherwise the life of the LEDs remaining in operation can be significantly reduced. The jumper can be used as a temporary solution to the problem.
Operating modes of a chandelier with a control panel
As I said at the beginning of the article, the chandelier can be controlled in two ways: using a remote control (like) and using a conventional one-button switch.
The chandelier control panel is programmed for a specific frequency and radio signal code, and can only work with the controller that came with the kit. Keep in mind that the remote control from another chandelier will not work for you, so if you lose the remote control, you will definitely have to buy another controller.
- button A
- button B
- button C
- button D
When button A is pressed, the first channel of the controller is switched on, i.e. the 1st group of halogen lamps will light up. Pressing button A again turns off the first channel. Similarly, with buttons B and C, only they control the second and third channels, respectively. But when you press the D button, all three channels are controlled at once.
If you control the chandelier with a single-key switch, then when the key is turned on for a short time, the first channel will turn on, when the key is turned off and then turned on, the algorithm will switch to turning on the second channel, etc., i.e. there is a sequential switching of the controller channels. And then the channel control cycle is repeated.
When the power is turned off for a long time, the controller algorithm is reset to its initial state.
In principle, if the batteries are dead in the remote control or you have lost it altogether, then it is quite possible to control the chandelier with a switch, although this is not very convenient.
Diagnostics and repair of a chandelier with a do-it-yourself control panel
We figured out the connection diagram of the chandelier with the control panel, and now we need to diagnose our malfunction.
Let me remind you that the chandelier in question does not turn on, either from the control panel or from the switch.
In principle, everything is simple. Since there is no radio control, it means that the controller (switch) falls under suspicion first of all. But you need to be 100% sure of this. Therefore, I decided to exclude it from the circuit and connect all three lighting groups directly to a 220 (V) network in order to check the health of the electronic transformers for halogen lamps and the LED backlight driver.
To do this, I put together the following diagram.
As temporary connections, I applied .
We turn on the machine and look. All lamps should light up, provided they are good and their power supplies are good. As you can see, in my case, all the lamps are on, with the exception of a couple of halogen bulbs.
I will immediately replace the burned-out halogens with halogens with similar parameters: G4 base, voltage 12 (V), power 20 (W) from the Navigator.
From here we draw the obvious conclusion that the cause of the malfunction in the chandelier was found - the Y-7E switch failed.
During an external examination of the Y-7E board, I did not see burnt and charred elements.
Only now I noticed some kind of “track” on the MKR-X2 capacitor, but most likely the factory varnish was so casually dripped.
By the way, the controller is powered in a transformerless way according to a circuit with a quenching capacitor, i.e. the following are connected in series to the 220 (V) network: a capacitor MKR-X2, a diode bridge, a zener diode and a load. The excess voltage of the network “falls” on the capacitor, and at the output of the diode bridge the voltage is already about 12-13 (V) DC. The signal receiver is powered from a source 5 (V), which is converted from a voltage of 12 (V).
Relay coils (blue blocks) are connected to voltage 12 (V), the contacts of which switch the load of output channels.
As you can see, the relay contacts are rated for current up to 10 (A) at a voltage of 240 (V), although in the technical specifications the channel power is limited to 1000 (W) or 4.5 (A) current, i.e. even there is still some stock.
The article has already come out quite voluminous, so I will tell you about troubleshooting and repairing the Y-7E controller another time - subscribe to the newsletter so as not to miss the release of new and interesting articles.
Now you need to purchase a controller similar in power and number of channels, connect it accordingly and check its operation.
My friend bought a Sneha B-837 controller. It is quite suitable in terms of power and number of channels. Its cost was 535 rubles (as of the date of writing the article).
Similar devices can be purchased at lower prices, for example, on well-known Chinese sites such as AliExpress.
If there is no urgent need for a controller, then for a while the chandelier can be left connected directly from a single-gang switch without a controller.
It even comes with a remote control stand. It can be placed near the sofa or bed so that the remote control is not lost.
We connect the purchased controller according to the above scheme. The difference will be only in the colors of the wires of its output channels.
The Sneha B-837 controller has three output channels, which have the following wire markings:
- phase of the first channel - blue output (Blue)
- phase of the second channel - white output (White)
- phase of the third channel - yellow output (Yellow)
- common zero - black output (Black-Neutral Out)
I connected the wires of the controller with the wires of the chandelier using NShVI bushings with a cross section of 2.5 sq. mm. I inserted two conductors, pressed them with PKVk-6 press tongs, insulated them and you're done.
We check the performance of the chandelier, both from the control panel and from the switch key. Only instead of a key, I will switch with a two-pole machine.
The chandelier with remote control is working properly.
As you can see, there is nothing complicated in repairing a chandelier with a remote control. The main thing is to sequentially check the serviceability of all lamps, electronic transformers, power supplies and the radio control controller.
And already by tradition, watch the video based on the materials of this article:
At the end of the article, I would like to add that controllers with a control panel can be used not only as lighting control, but also for other loads, for example, remote control of blinds, curtains, cornices, gates and other electrical devices.
Addition. Watch the video where I replaced the transformer for halogen lamps at a similar chandelier:
P.S. That's all. I hope that this article will help you figure out how to connect and repair a chandelier with a remote control. Thank you for your attention.
brief information
| Product origin: | China | Name: | Gold | Models: | GH-1A-12L | Size: | miniature | Principle: | electromagnetic relay | highest power | Protection Feature: | Sealed | Usage: | general purpose | Relay: | 4pin 12V |
Packaging Details
| Packing details: | 5050x50 cm |
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